How to make sliding (retractable) gates: we make cantilever gates - photo report, video. How to make sliding gates with your own hands How sliding gates are arranged

Sliding gates are just the perfect option for a country house or cottage. They are comfortable, durable and reliable in operation. Now on the building materials market there is a very large assortment that is required for accessories for gates, so you can easily make sliding gates with your own hands. To do this, you only need a drawing, and in order to fully understand the principle of operation and take into account all the features of a sliding gate, you can watch a video clip or photo, which shows in detail how to make a sliding gate.

Description and principle of operation

Still relatively not so long ago, sliding gates were very rarely set up and the most common fence was simple swing gates. This explained by the high cost accessories for sliding gates. To date, a set of accessories for automatic gates has become much more affordable, and more and more homeowners are interested in how to install this design with their own hands.

Sliding gates for a private house can be of two types:

Console;
Rail.

The last option is an outdated variety; such gates can often be seen in factories. The most popular is the first option, which is now ubiquitous. These gates are equipped with an additional console, which is a continuation of the leaf. The console is located behind the fence adjacent to the gate and is hidden behind it.

The principle of operation of sliding gates of the cantilever type is as follows. A guide (aka a console) is rigidly welded to the frame of the sliding gate, due to which the leaf moves. The guide moves on retractable trolleys attached to the foundation.

Each cart equipped with 8 bearings with pressed metal or polymer rollers. Retractable trolleys are located inside the guides, which additionally protects them from atmospheric influences and prolongs the operating time.

Under normal conditions, the operation of the sliding gate system must withstand at least 60 thousand cycles - this is approximately 20 years of average use.

The main advantages of sliding sliding gates include:

can be controlled mechanically or using automation;
the possibility of passage of cars of any height (there are no guides at the bottom and top of the opening);
ease of installation (you can mount sliding gates with your own hands);
do not require additional maintenance.

The main disadvantage of installing sliding gates is the use of a rather large area for opening them. Often, due to lack of space, people refuse sliding in favor of swing structures.

Accessories

To install sliding gates with your own hands, you need to buy special accessories for mounting a sliding system.

Accessories for cantilever gates must include the following elements:

If automation is planned, then you need additionally purchase this kit, it consists of the following elements:

Gear rack (it is desirable to choose a galvanized rack). For large (more than 5 m) and heavy gates, a toothed rack with a thickness of at least 9 mm is required.
Reducer.
Remote control.
Photo sensors or light elements - they synchronize the arrival of the IF beam between the receiver and transmitter, prevent closing when an object is located in the opening.
Base for mounting.
Signal lamp.

Automation, installed from components of Italian and German manufacturers, is the most reliable and suitable for operation in various climatic regions.

When installing sliding gates with your own hands, you need to make provision for opening in the event of an automatic failure.

Sliding gate manufacturing

Let's consider in more detail how to install cantilever sliding gates with corrugated board sheathing.

Materials and tools

Of the tools you will need:

The most expensive tools (grinder, welding machine) do not have to be purchased, they can be rented - it will be more cost-effective.

For the construction of sliding gates, it is necessary prepare the following materials:

profile sheets for cladding;
profile pipe for assembling the frame (65x44x2-3) and lintels (45x25x1-2);
sealant;
primer and paint;
console equipment;
channel 15-25 mm;
reinforcement with a diameter of 12-16 mm;
wires for automation (cable size - distance from the foundation to the electrical panel);
cladding fasteners (tacks and self-tapping screws).

Getting started: site preparation and drawing development

One of the most important steps in installing a sliding gate with your own hands is drawing up a drawing with a description of all dimensions (length, width, height, rollback space and clearances). The weight of the gate and the further choice of the console set will depend on the size of the structure and the material of the frame.

The width of the opening must be sufficient for the normal arrival of vehicles. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the width of the street - in narrow lanes it is better to build wide gates for the normal passage of the car.

To determine if the opening is convenient, you can insert a few pegs into the ground along the width of the gate and try to enter the yard by car.

The size of the opening determines the space required for rolling back the canvas. As a rule, the height of the gate is taken into account 10 cm less than the fence itself.

After creating the drawing, you can begin preparing the site for mounting the sliding gate. The opening must be leveled and cleaned of dirt and debris.

Separately, it is necessary to prepare a place for cutting, welding and painting the canvas and metal pipes. For this work, you can collect and put a few "goats".

Foundation laying and construction of supporting pillars

Installation of sliding gates must begin with the installation of support pillars. As this material, you can choose: concrete or brick pillar, steel pipe, oak beam, channel. It is necessary to install a support column to a depth of at least a meter.

Post installation steps:

Make a hole more than a meter deep.
Level it up.
Fill the hole with concrete.

It will take about a week for the concrete to completely harden. Therefore, in order not to waste time, you must first take care of the construction of support pillars.

Foundation laying is done like this:

The top of the channel must be located on the same level with the ground, forming a flat platform for the passage of the car. We leave the foundation to dry for another week, and during this time we are still making the frame of the gate and lining it with profile sheets.

Frame construction

According to the developed drawing, we cut pipes for jumpers and for the main structure. It is necessary to cut and measure the metal very carefully, controlling the accuracy of the inclination of the angles of the jumpers.

Before welding, all parts of the frame must be cleaned with a metal brush (scale removed from them), treated with an anti-corrosion agent for metal and degreased with a solvent.

Stages of welding the crate and frame:

To simplify the work, you can build a stand for welding: hammer stakes into the ground and lay out jumpers.
Pipes (transverse and longitudinal frames of the gate) are laid on the stand, they are seized with points, the diagonal of the frame is checked, and the joints are welded.
We lay the crate of the gate, grab it and determine its evenness. We weld the crate with small seams (one centimeter every 0.5 cm).
We clean the welding joints, degrease and paint the entire frame.

Frame installation and cladding

It is done in the following sequence:

After installation, you can begin the installation of automation. First you need to get acquainted with the instructions for the electric drive, watch the video and photo of the installation, since various automatic systems have certain differences and nuances of installation. But there are rules that apply without exception to all models:

DIY sliding gates will be much cheaper rather than ordering them from a specialized company. But still, to install them, you will have to purchase components and an automatic system. In addition, you need to be prepared that installing sliding gates with your own hands is a rather laborious process that requires accurate calculation, some skills and knowledge in construction.

Sliding gates on the site occupy a minimum of space, reliable and durable. They do not require too careful care either for the structure itself or for the adjacent territory. In addition, their mechanism is so simple that, if desired, it is quite easy to make sliding gates with your own hands.

All you need to make a sliding gate is a set of tools, materials, some free time and a good instruction. Do-it-yourself sliding gates can be made in just a few days. With the right choice of materials and strict adherence to the instructions, they will not differ in strength and reliability from purchased ones, but their cost will be much cheaper. In addition, since you are going to make the gate yourself, you can think over and implement any design, giving your gate an individuality.

How to make a do-it-yourself sliding gate leaf

Making a sliding gate leaf with your own hands is not difficult at all, it has a very simple design. All you need to get started - measure the size of the passageway and the part of the fence where the sash will move. For example, consider how cantilever sliding gates are made, the most convenient and common design.

Sash dimensions

For an example of manufacturing a sliding gate leaf, consider a standard opening:

opening width - 4m;
the height of the fence adjacent to the opening is 2 meters.

Important! The height of the canvas will be slightly less than the height of the fence, since it is necessary to provide a gap above the road. In our example, let's make the gap equal to 7.5 cm.

The design of sliding gates necessarily includes a counterweight in the amount of 1/2 of the width of the opening. In our case, the length of the counterweight is 2 meters. This part of the structure does not block the opening, but extends the canvas by the calculated amount. In order to have a good idea of \u200b\u200bthe future gate and correct the given dimensions for your own, it is better to first prepare the drawings of the sliding gate.

Important! The length of the adjacent fence in our case must be at least 6 meters so that the sliding gate leaf can fully open the opening.

Necessary materials

If the door leaf is filled with corrugated sheets or similar lightweight material, then the following materials will be required for the manufacture of the door leaf.

Rectangular pipes 60x30:
1 PC. 6-meter;
1 PC. 4-meter;
1 PC. 2.7 m long;
2 pcs. 1.85 m.
Rectangular pipes 40x20:
3 pcs. 4 meters;
4 things. 2 meters.
Guide bar 6 m from the small or medium set.
Profiled sheets for filling the frame.
Self-tapping screws.

Frame manufacturing

The frame of the gate is made of pipes 60x30. For the entire length of the guide rail, we weld a 6-meter pipe with a wide side, leaving an indent of 3 cm from one edge. Then, from the side where the pipe reaches the edge of the tire, we grab a pipe 1.85 meters long, measure 4 meters from it along the tire and grab second pipe of the same size. It turns out 2 vertical racks. We connect them together with a 4-meter pipe.

Important! At this stage, it is necessary to clearly measure each side so that there are no distortions. You should get an even rectangle.

The free edge of the tire and the upper corner of the carcass are interconnected by a pipe of 2.7 meters. This is the counterweight in the form of a triangle, which will not be visible from the front side of the fence.

The inner part of the frame consists of pipes 20x40, forming 6 equal rectangles. To leave room for the profiled sheet, a pipe of a smaller section is used than for the frame. Pipes with a wide side are laid on gaskets 20 mm thick and welded.

After welding the gate, all seams must be cleaned and polished.

Painting

Painting will protect the gate from rust and give it a well-groomed appearance, so it is necessary to choose a paint that is resistant and has good protective properties. Nitro enamel or car paint is best suited for this purpose. These materials are easy to apply and dry quickly, so you can paint the sliding gate leaf with your own hands, avoiding additional costs.

Painting steps:

metal dust and scale are removed from the frame;
the surface is wiped with a solvent;
primer;
painting.

Frame filling

Profiled sheets (or any other material), pre-fitted to size, are attached to the inner pipes with self-tapping screws. It is advisable to make preliminary markings where self-tapping screws will be screwed in or sliding gate drawings will be used so as not to spoil the appearance of the sash.

The counterweight triangle is not filled, as it does not perform a decorative or protective function.

Sliding gate installation

In order for the gate to serve for a long time, it is necessary to properly prepare the foundation for the sliding gate.

For this you need:

In order for the solution to dry properly, it must be left for a week, only after that it can be considered that the foundation for the sliding gate is ready.

On the other side of the opening, next to the fence, you need to install a pole to which the upper rollers and traps will be attached.

After the concrete has dried, it is necessary to install the gate itself. For this:

we weld a stand with roller bearings and a platform for the drive to the power frame;
install the sash guide beam on the rollers, check whether the gate is installed evenly using a level;
to the pole, towards which the gate will open, we weld the frame of the upper rollers, once again we check the level of the installation of the canvas;
on the opposite side, we install the traps on the pole so that the corners of the gate go into them;
we clamp the roller installed inside the guide beam;
turn on automation.

Do-it-yourself sliding gate drive

For convenience, electric drives are often attached to the gate, setting the sash in motion with the help of a button. If you have already made sliding gates with your own hands, then it remains to install a drive and automation on them, which is not difficult to do with certain skills. Moreover, the simplest engines are installed on the cantilever sliding gates, which we use in the example.

The choice of motor depends only on the type of voltage available in the area:

three-phase - more powerful;
single-phase - less powerful, can lead to problems with starting torque.

To open the gate, you need a motor with the following characteristics:

power - 1.5-2.5 kW, depending on the weight of the structure;
speed - the lower, the better to reduce the load on the drive shaft.

A good choice would be a 6-pole drive at 1000 rpm or a 12-pole drive at 500 rpm. Any type of engine is sold in the store, but to reduce the cost of the mechanism, you can also use improvised means, for example, use the engine from an old washing machine. Naturally, to work with electricity, you must have a certain skill, so if you do not have it, it is better to seek help from a specialist. To connect such a motor to the system, it will be necessary to determine the ends of two pairs of windings. To do this, it is necessary to measure the resistance with a multimeter, which is much higher for the starting winding.

The next step will be the choice of gearbox, single-stage is best. The frequency of rotation of the drive wheel (output torque) should be 80-100 rpm, the rotational speed of the input torque must necessarily coincide with the engine speed.

A rigid or semi-rigid coupling is used to connect the motor and gearbox shafts.

The role of the gearbox can be played by a belt drive. To properly assemble the elements of the circuit, you can use an automobile timing belt tensioner. Particular attention must be paid to the correct alignment of the shaft.

Sliding gate control methods

The main convenience of sliding gates is their almost complete autonomy, especially if you use the remote control of sliding gates.

We will consider 3 common types of automation for sliding gates.

Keychain remote control

A cheap and convenient device, very popular among the owners of sliding gates. In addition to the electric drive that sets the gate in motion, we need a control unit.

The remote control system consists of a control unit and a remote control. There is only one button on the control unit, which gives a signal to open or close the gate, depending on their initial state. There may be one or two buttons on key fobs, which, after installing the system, must be programmed. You can do it yourself with clear instructions.

Consider the instructions for one of the types of remote control on the remote control:

we connect the receiver to the power supply, 12V power, observing the polarity;
hold down the remote control buttons for a couple of seconds and wait for the indicator to flash;
on the receiver, we also hold down the button until the signal starts flashing;
when both signals begin to blink rapidly, hold down the gate control button and hold until the indicators light up constantly;
release the button and press it again quickly 2 times.

Please note that the gate can be controlled simultaneously from the remote control and from the stationary control unit, but not manually. The control unit securely fixes the gate, which provides additional protection against burglary; in this case, a conventional gate lock is not needed.

The receiver board has DIP switches that control its response to a signal:

1st position briefly closes the contact while the signal is on;
2nd position closes the contact until a new signal is given.

The duration of the pulses that are supplied to set the gate in motion is not large, but can be regulated. To start the engine using a device that supplies pulses with low voltage (12V), you will need to add additional relays to the electrical circuit.

GSM controller

Another way to control the gate is a GSM controller. Recently, it has been gaining momentum in popularity, since you can control the gate directly from your mobile phone, i.e. You don't even need a separate remote control.

The only problem with using this method is a poor cellular signal. It is faced by residents of settlements remote from the towers. Therefore, before installing such a system, you need to make sure that the mobile signal in your home is constant, and its quality is not affected by weather conditions.

As automation for the gate, you can use a simple alarm controller "KSITAL". It has 3 groups of relays, the contacts of which are connected as follows:

contact of the 2nd group parallel to the opening button;
contact of the 3rd group parallel to the close button.

A circuit using such a controller includes limit switches.

The controller is controlled by template messages that are sent from the mobile phone. It receives a signal thanks to the SIM card installed in it, to which messages are sent. Upon receiving a signal, the controller sets the gate in motion, moving until it is fully open or closed.

The contact of the 1st group of the relay can be set to open the gate using a magnetic key. The system is programmed by setting the value "1" in the 39th cell of the telephone directory of the controller's SIM card. In this case, the gate is opened from the outside with a magnetic key, and closed from the inside with the button of the control unit. The control of the 1st relay in the system is set and removed only manually, i.e. voltage will be applied until the control is turned off. To avoid malfunctions, an independent power source must be connected to the controller.

RFID identification and Arduino

The Arduino board is a frameless, expensive device, compared to key fobs and a GSM system, but it has many interesting features. The purchase of such a board and its independent configuration and installation is still at least 3 times cheaper than ready-made gate automation.

We will need:

Arduino Leonardo board;
active RFID tag of the SHF or RTLS standard with a signal frequency of 2.4 GHz;
reader device.

The RS-485 bus is used to connect the devices. After connecting the board, it will be necessary to place it in a sealed shell.

Using the board, you can set the gate to automatically open when a car approaches. To do this, a radio tag is installed in the car, catching the signal of which the device opens the gate and keeps it open until the signal is removed. In addition, the board can perform many other functions related to electronics: turn on the light, turn off the alarm, etc.

Types of sliding gates

Sliding gates have established themselves as a reliable, sturdy construction, which has been used for many years to protect the territories of organizations and private estates. Depending on the throughput of the gate, the size of the opening and some other factors, one of three types of sliding gates is used.

Suspended

Suspended sliding gates are a design that includes:

vertical posts along the edges of the opening;
a horizontal beam with a roller mechanism installed on it;
door leaf moving on rollers on a beam.
Benefits of hanging gates:
wind resistance;
burglary resistance;
any size canvas.

For private use, small, light gates can be made, but it is precisely this design of sliding gates that can withstand a massive, heavy, canvas with the highest degree of strength. These gates are usually equipped with driveways of organizations that require a high degree of security.

Flaws:

limiting the height of passing vehicles by the upper beam;
metal consumption.

It is because of the limitation of transport in height that they try to make such gates as high as possible, which further increases the material costs for the manufacture of the structure.

Rail

Rail sliding gates are driven by the bottom rail. The rail is installed at the same level with the road and does not interfere with the movement of cars.

Advantages of the model:

simple design;
wind resistance;
resistance to burglary and ramming due to the possibility of using a reinforced heavy frame and sheathing;
the ability to close the opening up to 6 m.

Flaws:

To mitigate the lack of rail gates, it is desirable that the adjacent road surface is strong enough not to collapse or crumble. It is also not recommended to install gates of this type in regions with frequent snowfalls or in places of constant formation of snow drifts.

Cantilever gate

The design of cantilever gates consists of a leaf with a counterweight, which moves along a guide beam, most often fixed at the bottom of the structure.

Advantages:

closed beam protected from the weather;
do not contact the ground;
do not limit the opening in height;
there is no gap between the gate and the adjoining fence.

Flaws:

Gates of this type best combine ease of use, strength and low costs for their manufacture.

Benefits of sliding gates

The main advantage of sliding gates is their compactness and unpretentiousness:

In addition to saving space, sliding gates have a number of other advantages.

Reliability. Due to their design, they are less susceptible to damage from strong gusts of wind, impacts or burglary attempts. The mechanism by which the door leaf moves is simple and designed for long-term regular use.

Electric drive availability. For sliding gates, electric drive and automation models are simpler and cheaper compared to swing gate equipment.

The dimensions of the gate are practically unlimited, and are made individually according to the size of the passageway.

Sliding gate photo

Due to the simplicity of design, ease of use, stylish design and minimum space requirements, sliding gates are increasingly replacing simple swing structures.

To fill the frame of sliding gates, there are many materials, thanks to which the gate acquires its own style and personality.

Sandwich panels

One of the most affordable and popular materials are sandwich panels. With their help, the gate is easy to give any style. The panels are made with any texture and pattern, so it is not difficult to choose exactly the option that is ideal for the style of the house, whether it be wood, paneling or corrugation.

Tree

Wood is an environmentally friendly and durable material, and if it is treated with a high-quality modern coating, then wooden gates will retain their appearance for a long time.

The budget of wooden gates is in a wide range, so, for example, you can upholster the frame with pine boards or fill it with carved details from oak or cherry. The latter will not only last much longer, but will also give status to the site, becoming a real decoration of the yard.

Strained glass

Sliding gates made of tempered glass have become a new interesting design solution. Fragile in appearance, they are able to withstand strong gusts of wind and impact. Glass can be tinted, but if only decorative elements and plants are located on the site from the side of the street, often the owners do not hide the beauty of their site from prying eyes. An excellent solution would be a combination of metal and glass.

Products from decorative forging are always appreciated, they look expensive and presentable. Leafs made of this material, although heavy, are easily moved to the side when automatic sliding gate control is used. Forged gates do not deform, do not rust, are very durable, reliably protect the site from break-ins, while they themselves do not bend from blows or ramming.

profiled sheet

Profiled sheet is a lightweight facing material. It is easy to work with him even for a beginner in the construction issue, who decided to make sliding gates with his own hands. Gates made of profiled sheet are reliably protected from the adverse effects of the external environment. They are not subject to corrosion due to the fact that this material is a sheet of high-quality galvanized steel, additionally coated with a polymer coating. In addition, the profiled sheet can be chosen in absolutely any color.

Retractable or sliding gates are a complex mechanism, but, nevertheless, because of their convenience, they have become widely used both in industrial facilities and in private households. There are many manufacturers that make ready-made gates and accessories for them, a qualified workforce will quickly and competently install, but those who want to save money and use creative energy in business will be interested in installing sliding gates with their own hands. Moreover, it is quite possible.

Types of sliding gates

Sliding gates come in different designs, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. Let's note them.

Hanging sliding gates

These gates were most often used at the entrances of enterprises and other protected areas. At a considerable height, in order to be able to enter freight transport, a metal beam was mounted, and no longer Not It was with the help of roller carts that the door leaf was hung.

Hanging gates - reliable, but material-intensive

This design is quite reliable, and such gates, created more than 50 years ago, still work, but now they are rarely used for two reasons:

The upper beam still limits the dimensions of the gate opening.
Such a design is very material-intensive and what was allowed in the days of the USSR at the then metal prices is simply unacceptable now.

Sliding rail gates

This is the simplest sliding gate design and theoretically the most reliable. The door leaf, standing on rollers, rides on a special rail located on the surface. The gate is still supported at one upper point in the place where the gate leaves when opened. Such gates are best used where the territory is periodically and constantly cleaned, which is often unattainable in Russian conditions. Normal snowfall will easily block the operation of such gates, and it can be very difficult to get them to work again.

A significant advantage of such gates is that in order to open them, they need to leave the fence exactly the width of the opening, and this, in conditions of lack of space, can be a determining factor for making a decision in favor of such a design.

Cantilever sliding gates

Cantilever sliding (sliding) gates were invented to ensure that the gate had no size restrictions from above and there was no contact with the ground rail. This is the most complex gate design, but these "victims" are absolutely justified. The leaf of such gates does not have contact with the surface, but is suspended on cantilever roller blocks using a guide beam. Most often, such a beam and roller blocks are located at the bottom of the gate.

There are cases when the guide beam and roller blocks can be located in the middle or even on top of the door leaf. This can be justified when the cantilever units can be hung on the main wall of the building or there are any building structures or structures that can withstand the loads from the door leaf. Otherwise, you will have to specially construct a load-bearing structure for the gate, which is far from always beneficial.

That is why, in most cases, cantilever sliding gates with a lower location of the carrier beam are used.

sliding gate prices

Sliding gates

Description of the design and operation of cantilever gates

A schematic diagram of a sliding gate with a lower console location can be seen in the figure.

The door leaf is mounted on a frame (1) made of a shaped metal pipe. A carrier beam (2) is welded to the frame, having a special profile, inside of which roller carriages (3) fit tightly. At the same time, the beam can move along with the gate to the left - to the right along the carriages, ensuring the opening and closing of the gate. It is obvious that the beam and roller carriages bear the greatest load, especially at the moment of their closing or full opening of the gate. In order to unload the gate when fully closed, an end unloading roller (4) is used, which enters and abuts against the lower catcher (5). In another part of the gate, to fix the leaf when fully opened, an end roller with a catcher limiter can also be used, but it is not visible in this diagram.

To ensure that the gate does not have lateral rolling, there is a guide with rollers (7) and an upper catcher (6) that fixes the leaf in the closed state. Plugs (8) are used to avoid the ingress of dirt and foreign objects into the interior of the beam. The entire gate structure is mounted on three main power elements: a support post (9), a counter post (10) and a foundation for roller carriages (11). If the site already has sufficiently strong supports for the gate (brick, concrete or metal), then they can be used as support and response pillars, and if not, then they will have to be built separately from a profile metal pipe. The foundation for the console in any case will have to be built separately.

In sliding gates, an electric drive is quite easily implemented, which is fixed between the roller carriages. To set the web in motion, a gear rack is fixed to its side surface. The drive is equipped with a control unit, as well as various safety devices.

Benefits of cantilever sliding gates

Cantilever sliding gates have a number of advantages:

Such gates do not have detachable leaves and therefore do not reduce the usable area of the territory, and if the gate is accidentally opened, there is no danger of damaging the vehicle standing in front of them.
The gate opening has no lower and upper restrictions on dimensions.
Abundant do not disrupt the operation of the cantilever gate, as the canvas is hung at a distance of about 10 cm above the ground.
All rolling elements that ensure the operation of the gate are located inside the beam, so they are not affected by weather factors. Even a child can set the gate in motion, thanks to a well-thought-out design and low friction.
A strong cantilever foundation and a well-thought-out system for keeping the door leaf in a vertical position allow such doors to withstand heavy wind loads.
Sliding gates are the easiest to equip with an electric drive and security elements.

Still, sliding gates have disadvantages, but there are few of them:

Cantilever sliding gates are one of the most complex in design, and therefore their installation is not easy.
To install them, it is necessary to have a free section of the fence one and a half times larger than the size of the opening, which is not always achievable.

Determination of the possibility of installing sliding gates

Even with a great desire and remarkable financial capabilities of the site owner to install sliding gates, situations may arise when installation is either impossible or very difficult. What are these situations?

The space where the gate will roll back along the fence must be free for at least one and a half width of the gate opening. This is explained by the fact that on the door leaf, in addition to the part that closes the opening, there is also a technological part, which occupies at least half of the width of the opening in length - this will better distribute the loads from the gate to the cantilever block.

Sliding gates move in a straight line, which means that the necessary section of the free space of the fence must also be straight.
In the place where the gate will move, there should not be any uneven terrain that will prevent the free movement of the gate.

There should not be gates on the path of the gate, it is better to make them from the opposite side. Sometimes sliding gates with built-in gates are ordered, but they will inevitably have high thresholds, which is extremely inconvenient for children and the elderly.
It happens that the owners intend to use the gate as a gate - when the canvas drives off a distance sufficient for the passage of people. This is not necessary, since any gate mechanism is designed for a certain number of cycles and their frequent use will greatly reduce the resource.
If the entrance to the territory of the site occurs from a narrow lane, then to facilitate maneuvering, it is necessary to increase the gate opening, which will affect the dimensions of the canvas.

If there are no such difficult situations on the site, then you can proceed to the installation of sliding gates with your own hands.

In order for the sliding gates to be installed correctly and have a long service life in the future, it is necessary to break the technological process into several stages.

Preparatory work

The first and one of the main parts of the preparatory operations is the assessment of the gate installation site. What should you pay attention to?

If the gates will be placed instead of the old ones, having a different design, then the presence and condition of the supporting pillars is assessed. If they are made of brick, reinforced concrete with a section at least 20 per 20 cm, shaped metal pipe with a cross section at least 60 per 40 cm, their strict verticality is maintained, and they are securely fixed in the ground, then they may well serve as a supporting and reciprocal column of sliding gates. If not, then you will have to build your pillars again.
Near the support post, it should be possible to dig a hole for the foundation, which should be located close to the post, run parallel to the fence and have dimensions of 500 mm by 2000 mm.
If there is a new fence on the site, then all the work on its construction and preparation for the installation of sliding gates can be combined, which is most preferable.
Very often, brick pillars are erected at the entrance to the territory, which is both practical and beautiful. During their construction, it is necessary to make embedded elements in the form of steel plates 100 * 100 mm and 5 mm thick, three on each column. The top plate must be placed on the inside of the post against the edge closest to the opening. The distance from the top of the post to the plate is 200 mm. The lower embedded plate is located similarly to the upper one, but at a distance of 200 mm from the zero mark. "Zero" is considered to be the level of entry through the gate. The middle plate is placed in the middle between the top and bottom. Gate elements will subsequently be attached to them.

When building a new fence, you can take into account that most often the width of the passage for sliding gates is 4 meters. This standard has long been adopted in Europe. All manufacturers of components and accessories have the necessary sets of elements for this size of gate. To greatly facilitate your work, it is better to use a ready-made solution.
It is necessary to decide on what the door leaf will be and how it will be lined. There are a lot of options, and in each of them the gate will have a different mass. This may affect the selection of the desired force elements. Most often, corrugated board has been used recently, but there are options for cladding with wooden clapboard, forged decorative elements, or simply leaving a lattice structure made of steel pipes.

Before purchasing the necessary components, you need to draw up your detailed drawing with a specification or use ready-made solutions that are in the albums of gate manufacturers and on the forums of country house owners on the Internet. In any case, you need to be very clear about the design of how many materials you need and which ones.

Marking work

When the gate posts are installed, regardless of whether the fence is erected or not, you can already start marking. For this you need:

Determine the level of the zero mark, which is taken as the surface level at the entrance to the garage opening. Moreover, it is not necessary that at the time of the start of work, the entrance surface will already be ready. This can also be done later. This level should be marked on one pillar, and then transferred to another using a water or laser level.
At the level of zero marks, the cord is pulled close to the inner surface of the poles, and the cord must go beyond the support table (the one where the gate will move when opened) for a distance of at least two meters. The horizontality of the stretched cord is checked.

Sliding gate foundation

In order to perceive the loads from the weight of the gate at rest and during their movement, it is necessary to equip the foundation. To do this, as the upper part, on which the roller units and the electric drive will be mounted, you need a channel No. 20 with a length of 2000 mm. For the foundation, it is necessary to dig a hole, which is adjacent to the support post, has a length of 2100 mm, a width of 500 mm. Depth is determined by the level of soil freezing in winter. In most regions, a depth of 1500 mm will be sufficient.

To reinforce the foundation and create a connection between the channel and the foundation, three square-section frames with a side of 150 mm from reinforcement No. 16 and a length of 1400 mm are welded. For cross ties, you can use reinforcement No. 10-12 with a pitch of 300-400 mm.

Finished frames are welded to the lower surface of the channel in the middle of its shelf. The center lines of the extreme frames are located 400 mm from the edges of the channel, and the third - exactly in the middle. After that, it is necessary to add 10 cm of sand or a sand-gravel mixture to the bottom of the pit, compact it and begin to install the finished channel with reinforcing cages. This should take into account:

The channel is laid close to the bearing post, strictly parallel to the gate movement line, flush with the zero mark. A previously stretched cord will help to do this.
In order to prevent cement milk from leaking into the ground from the concrete mixture, which reduces the strength of concrete, it is better to line the bottom and walls of the pit with plastic wrap.
The surface of the channel should be at zero, therefore, when installing frames with a channel, it is good to use pieces of reinforcement that can fix the structure in the pit. When concrete is supplied, a solid load will affect the frames, so the fixation must be reliable.
In order to make it easier to level the upper part of the concrete with the channel, it is very convenient to install edged boards on top with a surface at zero level.

If you plan to use an electric drive with an automation unit and a security system, then you should immediately take care of laying the necessary cables. The wiring diagram can be seen in the figure. Cables should be laid either in a corrugated pipe, or better - in a polyethylene pipe with a diameter of 20 mm.

It's time for concrete work. For pouring the foundation of retractable cantilever gates, concrete of a grade of at least M250-M300 must be used. For its preparation, you will need components in the following proportions by volume:

One bucket of cement M400.
Two buckets of washed sand.
Four buckets of crushed stone or gravel.
The amount of water depends on the moisture content of sand and cement and ranges from 0.7 to 1 bucket. The use of plasticizers reduces the amount of water needed and increases the flowability of the mix, which is beneficial when laying.

The amount needed for the foundation, of course, will be larger, the main thing is to observe the indicated proportions. To prepare the concrete mix, it is best to use a concrete mixer or a powerful construction mixer. With manual mixing, the quality of concrete deteriorates.

Concrete mixer - an indispensable assistant for the construction of the foundation of the gate

First, sand and cement are poured into the concrete mixer. After mixing them, part of the water is added so that the solution is mixed until a homogeneous state. Next, crushed stone or gravel is added and water is gradually added until the concrete becomes homogeneous and mobile. When laying concrete in a pit, you must:

Feed the concrete mixture gradually so as not to move the leveled structure.
After laying the next portion of concrete, it is necessary to pierce it in several places with a bar of reinforcement - to remove possible air bubbles.
After laying and leveling the top layer, it is necessary to wipe the surface of the channel with a wet cloth so that it remains clean for subsequent operations.

Full maturation of concrete occurs within 28 days, but after a week it will already gain the strength that will allow installation of the gate. And at this time, you can do other technological operations.

Manufacturing of sliding gates

In the manufacture of the door leaf, if there are not sufficient skills in welding metals, it is better to contact the place where the specialists in the workshop will make them according to the required dimensions. Sliding gates are a fairly large structure and at home it will be difficult to ensure that all parts are in the same plane, which is extremely necessary. Another advantage of manufacturing gates in workshops is that priming and painting can be done with a compressor, and this gives a better finish. But if you still have a desire to do everything yourself, then this is quite possible.

One of the possible options for the door leaf is shown in the figure. The main frame is made from a profile pipe 60*40 mm, while the stiffeners and internal filling are made from a pipe 20*40 mm. The supporting beam, which is located at the bottom of the drawing, has a length of 6 meters and it must be welded to the gate, so it is time to purchase a set of accessories for retractable cantilever gates and profile pipes for making the leaf.

A wide range of fittings for sliding gates is presented in various stores and in the construction markets. It is both a Russian manufacturer and an imported one. When buying accessories, you need to take into account the weight of the future door leaf and the size of the opening. In our case, the size of the opening is 4000 mm, and the weight of the canvas, if it is sheathed with corrugated board, will be up to 400 kg, which must be reported to the seller.

The standard gate kit includes:

Guide beam 71*60*3.5 mm, 6 meters long.
Two roller bearings.
End roller.
Lower catcher of the end roller.
Upper catcher.
Guide with two rollers.
Two plugs per beam.

To weld the gate, you will need to make an assembly table consisting of three stands of the same height. As supports, stakes driven into the ground at the same level and boards laid on top can be used. The main thing is that all three stands lie in the same horizontal plane.

Another option for an impromptu mounting table can be bars or building stones laid on the ground and set on the same level.

A profile pipe purchased at a metal warehouse rarely has no centers of corrosion, therefore, before making a gate, all pipes should be thoroughly cleaned of rust stains and dirt. It is most convenient to do this with a grinder with a special grinding disc.

According to the drawing, profile pipes 60 * 40 mm are cut for the main frame of the gate. At the same time, one should try to make sure that during welding there are no holes left for access to the internal cavity of the pipe. Marking should be done with a tape measure and a square, and cutting with a grinder with a cutting disc, or better, with a cutting machine that allows you to accurately observe all angles.

Pipes are laid out on the mounting surface, guided by the drawing, compliance with the dimensions and perpendicularity is checked, and then all seams are successively tacked. After checking the dimensions and plane, all pipe joints are welded with a continuous seam. All remaining open ends of the pipes are welded with plugs. After that, all welding seams are carefully cleaned with a grinder with a grinding disc.

Profile pipes 40 * 20 mm are cut to size for stiffeners, which are then applied to the inner surface of the main frame, pulled together with clamps and pinpointed. This is how the entire internal frame is assembled. After checking the compliance with the dimensions in the drawing, checking the diagonals of the rectangular part of the gate, the plane of the structure, all seams are scalded. On the joints of the pipes of the inner frame, continuous seams are applied to each other, and to connect the side surfaces of the main frame with the inner one, seams of 10-15 mm are made with an interval of 400-500 mm. Welding must be done in a checkerboard pattern so that the entire structure does not “lead” from excessive overheating in one place.

A guide beam is welded to the lower surface of the gate. To do this, it is fastened with clamps, the correspondence of the axes of the door leaf and the beam is checked, and then it is welded with 30-40 mm seams through 400-500 mm. After that, the grinder cleans all the seams.

For priming and painting, the gate must be set in a position close to vertical. It is best to use an automotive anti-corrosion primer, which must be applied in two coats. It is preferable to do this with a compressor and a sprayer, but you can also use a brush, but it will take longer, and the quality of the coating will be worse. Particular attention should be paid to ensuring that the primer sheds a gap between the beam and the gate. It would also be appropriate to cover this gap with "sausages" of acrylic sealant. After that, the gate can be completely painted in two layers. In no case should the inner surface of the carrier beam be painted!

After the paint has completely dried, the cladding can be mounted on the gate, the most preferable of which is corrugated board, as it combines light weight, strength, beautiful appearance and reasonable price.

Sliding gate installation

The installation of a cantilever structure on a previously mounted channel can be started no earlier than 7 days after concreting. For the installation of roller carriages, it is recommended to purchase a mounting plate with studs, which will allow:

Adjust the position of the gate in height and horizontal.
It is easy to remove the gate for repair or replacement of roller blocks.

To install the gate you need:

Push the roller carriages onto the mounting plate, making the height the same and medium on all the studs. Do not overtighten the top nuts.
On the foundation it is necessary to mark the position of the mounting plates. To do this, 150 mm is measured from that edge of the channel, which is closer to the opening, and a line perpendicular to its length is drawn. This will be tangent to the edge of the first mounting plate.
To find the position of the second support, measure the total length of the gate and subtract 100 mm from it. The resulting distance must be postponed from the beginning of the return post parallel to the goal line to the channel. At this point, a perpendicular is drawn, which will be tangent to the second mounting plate.
If the bearing capacity of the poles is good and anchor bolts will be well attached to them, then the use of additional metal poles is not necessary. If not, then according to previously prepared mortgages, a profile pipe is vertically welded in height equal to the height of the gate plus 200 mm, with a section of 40 * 40 * 2 mm. On the support post, it can be welded close to the edge, and on the return post, it can be welded at a distance of 20-50 mm from the edge of the post.

At a height of 150-200 mm, at a distance of 20-30 mm from the supporting and supporting posts, a cord is stretched horizontally, parallel to the gate movement line. It will indicate the position of the tangent to the edge of the carrier beam. The cord must be taut throughout the movement of the gate: from the opposite table and up to the position of the edge of the gate when it is fully opened.
Roller carriages are placed in the carrier beam and shifted approximately to the middle of the gate. Then, with the participation of assistants, the door leaf is placed vertically above the channel. The roller carriages are bred along the previously marked lines, and the tensioned cord should touch the guide beam along its entire length. This position can be fixed with the help of supports from the planks. After checking the verticality, the roller platforms can be "grabbed" by electric welding in several places.
The door travel is checked, its verticality and horizontality, which is checked in the closed position. If necessary, adjusting nuts on the studs of the platforms are corrected. The gate should move easily along the rail, parallel (lightly touching) to the tensioned cord. The gaps between the supporting and reciprocal pillars should be the same, and from the zero mark to the bottom edge 80-100 mm. If everything is in order, then the carriage nuts can be tightened, and the platforms themselves can be scalded in a circle.

A plug is mounted on the rear cantilever part of the carrier beam. An end roller is mounted in front of the beam. Each manufacturer has its own installation method, so you need to use the instructions.
A guiding device with two rollers is mounted on the support column in its upper part. To do this, a bracket is attached to the pole for attaching the guide, and holes are marked. In brick or concrete, it is necessary to fix it with anchors with studs with a diameter of 10 mm, and in metal - with appropriate self-tapping screws. If welding will be used for fastening, then it is better to temporarily remove the plastic rollers. After mounting on the pole, the rollers are set so that they tightly cover the door leaf, maintain its verticality and at the same time do not interfere with smooth running.

The gate rolls out to the fully closed position, and the place of attachment of the lower catcher is marked on the counter post. The end roller should fit snugly on the catcher shelf, partially relieving the load from the roller blocks. The trap is mounted with appropriate fasteners and the door movement and the ease of their fixation in the closed position are checked.

An upper catcher is mounted, which prevents the gate from swinging in the wind. In a fully closed state, the position of the trap is outlined and its fastening is made. Very often, the upper catcher in the kit also has a protective bracket that is put on the door leaf, which saves from damage to the coating. The bracket is mounted so that when closing, it enters the trap.

If necessary, a rear limiter is mounted, which will not allow the gate to roll far when fully opened.

After a well-conducted installation, the gate should move very easily and be fixed in the extreme positions. The final work will be cleaning of all welds, coating them with an anti-corrosion primer and painting. Further on the door leaf, you can fix the handles for opening and closing, as well as install. Each manufacturer of drives has its own installation features, which are described in detail in the attached documentation. But this work will already be much easier, since the main thing has already been done - do-it-yourself sliding gate installation.

Video - Installation instructions for sliding gates

Video - Installation of a finished set of gates without welding

Video - How to make a sliding gate yourself

Retractable (sliding, sliding) gates are a more technologically advanced alternative to swing gates. It is more difficult to make a gate with a sliding mechanism than a swing gate, but the ease of use and appearance will point to a modern private house.

Before you figure out how to make sliding gates from corrugated board, you need to consider what types of devices are and trace the evolution of their formation.

Types and types of sliding gates

The device and design features of the mechanisms and methods of installation.

Opening method:

sliding gate- consist of two wings that move off in opposite directions. Visually similar to swing gates and combine the advantages of swing and sliding gates;

sliding gates(self-supporting) - consist of one canvas (rarely two) that move off in one direction.

The main advantage of sliding gates is that they do not require a lot of free space for operation. Among the advantages - the ability to connect automation, a more modern look, ease of sliding even in the presence of snow.

According to the degree of mechanization:

manual rollback(mechanical gate opening). It is absolutely easy to move the sliding gate leaf. If you are going to make a sliding gate with your own hands, many prefer manual gate rollback;

automatic rollback. When designing and installing gates, the need for electricity supply and installation of additional mechanisms is taken into account. Automation for sliding gates consists of: remote control, electric drive, electric cable, photocells, signal lamp.

Guide type:

hanging type. In this case, the guide is installed from above, which limits the height of the gate;

console type. Sliding gates of this type are characterized by the installation of a guide frame at the bottom of the structure.

The simplest are gates mounted on a rail (fig. on the left). The option is simple, but not very convenient, because. the bottom rail needs constant care. Otherwise, debris caught in the sled will cause the rollers to come off and eventually damage the mechanism. A more modern version of the device is a sliding gate with a floating rail (fig. on the right).

It is about how to make sliding gates from corrugated board on floating rails that will be discussed in the article.

Do-it-yourself sliding gates from corrugated board

Step-by-step instructions for making sliding gates for summer cottages and private houses.

Stage 1 - project of sliding gates from corrugated board

The design of sliding gates is complex, which means that visualization is necessary, i.e. you need to make a sketch or drawing.

Sketch of sliding gates from corrugated board

A sketch is a picture showing the appearance of the gate, with the designation of the main elements, but without drawing dimensions. Design begins with a sketch drawing.

The scheme of sliding gates from corrugated board

A schematic drawing is a cross between a sketch and a drawing, i.e. a picture that gives an idea of the gate and allows you to apply dimensions. The disadvantage of the scheme is that the proportions are not maintained. However, for those who do not have drawing skills, the sliding gate scheme will be a reliable help.

Drawing of sliding gates from corrugated board

The drawing is mandatory provided by construction teams when ordering a service - turnkey installation. A drawing is a document in which the key parameters of the future gate are recorded: the width of the opening, the width of the gate and the counterweight, the dimensions and location of the gate, the number of leaves, the specifics of opening, additional elements, as well as all dimensions.

Important. A gate made of corrugated board, mounted in the gate leaf, is thought out at the stage of project development.

Stage 2 - calculation of sliding gates from corrugated board

For the normal functioning of sliding gates, it is necessary to correctly calculate the parameters of their main elements:

Gate weight

The mass of sliding gates has a direct effect on all load-bearing elements. The total mass consists of the weight of the frame, the counterweight (shank), the weight of the skin, the weight of the decorative elements. If it is planned to manufacture a gate from corrugated board with an internal wicket, the weight of the frame and the material of the wicket is taken into account. The weight of locks and automation, although not so significant, should not be neglected in the calculations either.

It is possible to reduce the weight of the gate leaf by arranging two wings. Those. instead of retractable, make sliding gates.

For example, the weight of a 4-meter gate, welded from a pipe with a section of 60x20, sheathed with corrugated board on one side, is about 200 kg.

Pillars for sliding gates

For support poles, a large-section metal pipe is suitable.

Console length (guide rail or beam)

The length is determined by the width of the opening plus ½ of the length of the counterweight (shank). It is not recommended to decrease this parameter, because the recoil mechanism wears out quickly. With a door width of 4,000 mm. the length of the console will be 6,000 mm. Thus, the side of the fence on which the door leaf will enter must be longer than 6,000 mm.

If the fence is shorter, two gate leaves should be made with two counterweights and automation kits. This increases the cost of the sliding gate, but will allow it to "fit" in the given dimensions (the length of the fence next to the gate). Otherwise, you need to install .

A counterweight of ¼ of the door width is only possible when using the console roller guides.

Advice. If the entrance to the courtyard is located on a narrow street, it is advisable to make the opening and the gate wider to provide free room for maneuver.

Influence of the weight of sliding gates on the parameters of the guide rail (console)

accessories

The heavier the gate - the stronger you need to purchase accessories. This will avoid its deformation and distortion of the gate during operation.

Automation

The more massive the leaf leaf, the more powerful you need to take the automation. In turn, automation for sliding gates is selected taking into account the power reserve. Therefore, when buying, you need to add 100 kg to the weight of the gate.

Influence of the weight of sliding gates on the parameters of the electric drive (power)

Stage 3 - materials and tools

We give data on the amount of building material for the manufacture of sliding gates from a profiled sheet measuring 4,000 x 2,000 mm.

Estimate for the consumption of materials and funds for the installation of sliding gates

Material	Quantity	Price
Decking*	4 sheets of 2 m.p. about 10 sq.m.	150-350 rub. per sq.m.
Pipe 100x100, 4 mm thick.	2	560 rub/m.p.
Pipe 60x30, 2 mm thick.	2 m.p. - 2 pcs. 3.5 m.p. - 1 PC. 4 m.p. - 1 PC. 6 m.p. - 1 PC.	153 rub/m.p.
Pipe 60x20, 2 mm thick.	Depending on the location of the reinforcing jumpers	147 rub/m.p.
Metal sheet, 2 mm. To reinforce the frame. Installed in case of strong wind load.	Scarves - 4 pieces 150	764.80 rub/sq.m.
For arranging a flashing 150x150	2 pcs.	764.80 rub/sq.m.
Channel, length 2-3 m.p. For installation on a shank foundation	1 PC.	300 rub/m.p.
Self-tapping screws / rivets	80 pcs/130 pcs	1.25 rubles / piece 0.3 rub/piece
Paint for corrugated board	1 PC.	240 rubles / 1 kg.
Anticorrosive primer: GF-021 LAKRA Phosphosoil Zinconol	1 PC.	140 rubles/kg. 257 rubles/kg. 463 rubles/kg.
Frame paint	1 PC.
Cement M 400	1 PC.	200 rubles / 50 kg.
Sand		85 rubles / 50 kg.
Fittings, Ø 12	20 m.p.	41 rub./m.p.
Pens	Required if drive is not used
Hidden hinges
Locks
Sliding gate mechanism	1 PC. for rolling 2 pcs. for sliding gates
Rolltec MICRO	opening width 3 000 Sash weight up to 350 kg.	7530 rub.
Alutech	opening width 4 000 Sash weight up to 450 kg.	150
Came	opening width 4 500 Sash weight up to 700 kg.	29330 rub.
Came	opening width 4 500 Sash weight up to 800 kg.	33980 rub.
Alutech automation	1 PC. for rolling 2 pcs. for sliding	25000 rub.

* Decking. The height is equal to the height of the sash, the width depends on the type. For wall corrugated board, the working width is from 1000 to 1190 mm. For a gate 4 m wide, you will need 4 sheets 2 m high. It is preferable to take a painted profiled sheet. Its service life is much longer and the appearance is more beautiful.

Separately, we will dwell on what elements the sliding gate mechanism includes. In general terms, these are accessories and automation.

Sliding gate fittings are a set (set) of elements that ensure the functioning of the gate leaf.

Sliding gate beam (console or guide rail)

Sold in size 6, 7, 8 m.p. The guide beam is welded to the frame tube from below. Guide rollers are placed inside the console, which are responsible for the movement of the gate leaf.

Advice. When buying a console, ask about the warranty and pay attention to the quality of the metal, its thickness, geometry. Otherwise, the rail will bend and the gate leaf will jam. Masters warn if in the section of the cantilever beam for sliding gates a square is a fake. The factory console has a complex geometric shape.

Rollers for sliding gates (roller carriages)

Mounted on the top and bottom of the frame. The upper roller keeps the sash in a horizontal position and prevents the leaf from swinging. Lower support - mounted at the end of the console (beam). The support rollers are responsible for holding the sash in the closed position. And also, for preventing its sagging and spontaneous opening. The rollers are rigidly fixed on the foundation.

Advice. Good quality plastic shell rollers are more durable. In addition, they muffle the rumble when the gate moves, and protect the base of the roller from damage.

High-quality material for rollers is indelible plastic or chrome vanadium steel. But to a greater extent, the quality is influenced by the manufacturer.

Sliding gate catcher (top and bottom catcher)

Catchers accept the gate frame when closing. Also designed to keep the sash from sagging.

End caps for guide rail

Plastic plugs are installed at opposite ends of the console.

Sliding gate automation

It is selected based on the technical characteristics indicated by the manufacturer. Includes a drive, which can be of several types:

belt drive- relatively cheap, but the belt wears out quickly, it can burst from temperature changes;

chain drive- a little more expensive, but the chain is prone to sagging and requires care;

gear drive- the most reliable. The toothed rack ensures that the gate will not be opened from the outside, but at the same time, it will not open if the power goes out. Automation with gear drive can be installed on gates with wicket doors made of corrugated board.

Advice. Masters recommend buying a mechanism for sliding gates in the kit. So it is easier to choose a complete set and take into account its bearing capacity. Good reviews about such manufacturers: CAME (Italy), Rolling-Center (Italy), DOORHAN (Russia), ROLTEK (Russia).

Stage 4 - installation of sliding gates from corrugated board

Do-it-yourself installation of sliding (sliding) type gates without automation

Foundation for the gate

The foundation is poured under the liner.

A 200 mm channel is laid close to the post, and a 160 mm channel is laid with an indent of 50 mm from the support post.

Installation of mortgages in pillars is carried out "flush" with brickwork (lining of supporting pillars).

How to make a foundation for a sliding gate

To properly fill the base, you need to perform a number of actions:

prepare the soil (remove the top layer of soil);

dig a trench. Depth and width 500 mm, the length of the recess is ½ the width of the gate opening. For a sash with a width of 4 r.m. need a trench 2 meters long;

drill two holes that are designed to install support pillars. Drilling depth - 1/3 of the length of the pipe, usually 1300-500 mm. The width of the hole depends on the reinforcement. It is recommended that the hole diameter be 2.5 times the pipe diameter/section. The result of earthworks will be a U-shaped recess;

make a sand-gravel pillow in the recesses (at the bottom of the pits for pillars). Backfill height 50-100 mm;

pour concrete mortar;

along the bottom of the trench (between the supporting pillars), equip a sand and gravel cushion;
tie and lay reinforcement;

concrete.

There is a second option for building a foundation for sliding gates - using a channel. This is the so-called foundation mortgage.

The method also involves digging trenches and vertical holes. But in this case, in addition to the supporting pillars, reinforcement is laid in the holes, welded to the channel, which will serve as the foundation, and the entire structure is concreted from above.

Advice.
The level of pouring concrete must match the level of the channel. Otherwise, water will accumulate in this place. The material was prepared for the site www.site

While the concrete will harden, you can begin to manufacture the frame.

Installation of sliding gates - frame (leaf frame)

By configuration, the frame is a one-sided trapezoid.

How to weld a frame (frame) for sliding gates

cut metal blanks for welding the sliding gate frame. Please note that workpieces forming a right angle are welded at an angle of 45 °. Perpendicular - at an angle of 90 °. So, they need to be cut accordingly.
Advice. For beginners who do not have much experience in welding, craftsmen are advised to cut at an angle only those workpieces that will be located on top of the frame. This will prevent water from entering the frame frame. The lower ones can be welded at a right angle.

clean iron blanks from rust, dirt, etc.;

weld together all the elements according to the drawing. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that welding is carried out with “pokes”, and a continuous weld is not used (the structure can lead from it). In addition, with the spot welding method, it is easier to dismantle the frame for repair or reconstruction (“points” are cut off by a grinder).
Only after there is no doubt about the accuracy of the dimensions and geometry of the structure can the final welding be carried out with a continuous seam;

workpieces and welding spots are ground;

anti-corrosion primer treatment.

If necessary, the frame is additionally (at the welding stage) reinforced with longitudinal / perpendicular crossbars or a scarf - a steel sheet welded at the corners of the structure.

Advice. The reinforcement of the triangle that is formed on one side of the frame (shank) occurs by installing a stiffener in such a way that the right angle is divided in half.

Installation of a beam for sliding gates

The cantilever (guide) beam is welded to the bottom of the frame. Rubber plugs are installed on its edges. Without plugs, debris will enter the console, which will make it difficult for the sash to move along the guide rollers.

Installation of fittings for sliding gates

a flashing is attached to the support post - a corner of 150x150 mm or a channel;
traps (upper and lower) are attached to the flashing;
on the foundation mortgage (installed channel), rollers (holding carriages) are mounted. The rollers are installed as far apart as possible;
a console is put on the carriage;
traps are finally adjusted;
installation of accessories and / or automation (drive) is carried out.

Installation of corrugated board

Sheathing of the gate with a profiled sheet is carried out in accordance with the installation technology.

Swing gates are good for everyone: they are simple and cheap. But in winter, with a lot of snow, you can open them only by thoroughly working with a shovel. When you need to go to work, it's not at all happy. Retractable or, as they say, sliding / sliding gates are deprived of this drawback. The one-piece structure, covering the entire entrance, drives off to the side, hiding behind the fence. They can stay on a regular or cantilever beam, or they can simply ride on rails. In any case, you can make sliding gates with your own hands. It's not exactly easy, but it's possible.

Constructions

Which is better

Which design is better is hard to say. If we talk about reliability, then the best choice is a suspended structure. Everything is easy and reliable, almost indestructible system. Gates of this type have been operated at enterprises for decades. Their disadvantage is that the beam limits the height of the incoming transport, which is sometimes important. But today there are models with composite beams that allow you to remove the jumper over the entrance with the gate open, and then return it to its place.

The cheapest and easiest to implement is the rail system. These sliding gates are the easiest to assemble with your own hands. But the problems that arise during operation make it unpopular.

Of all the above structures, the most expensive and difficult to perform is the cantilever, however, it is the one that is installed most often: correctly made, it does not cause inconvenience during operation. When choosing, you need to keep in mind that when it is arranged to the right or left of the gate, a distance of one and a half times more than the width of the leaf is required: in addition to the sash itself, there is also a technical part that protrudes from the side by about half the length.

The types of sliding gates, design features and construction are discussed in detail in the video.

How to make a cantilever sliding gate

This design is good because there are no beams above the driveway. But it is the most expensive in the device. The point is not so much in the system of rollers, but in the need for a foundation with metal mortgages, to which the cantilever beam will then be attached. If there are already pillars, the foundation is poured in front of it and along the fence to the length of the technical extension, which is necessary to compensate for the load created by the canvas.

Even if they make cantilever sliding gates with their own hands, a kit consisting of a guide beam, rollers, end rollers and traps is usually bought from a company. All spare parts are calculated based on the dimensions of the canvas, the material of the frame and the type of sheathing: weight is essential. Therefore, it is desirable to decide with all these parameters in advance.

Knowing the length of the supporting beam, you can calculate the required size of the foundation. By type, this is a strip foundation, a foundation pit is dug under it below the freezing depth of the soil (it has its own for each region), in which reinforced supports are laid under the plates with rollers, and racks are also installed. A set of upper rollers is then attached to these racks, holding the canvas and preventing it from swinging.

How to calculate the foundation for fixing a cantilever beam

There is nothing difficult in the calculation. The length of the foundation is almost half the length of the span. If the span is 4 meters (the width of the passage or the distance between the pillars), then the foundation should be 1.8-2 m. Its width is 40-50 cm, the depth is below the freezing depth of the soil for the region.

The pit is dug another 10-15 cm deeper - under a gravel-sand cushion. This foundation is reinforced (by type), in its upper part a channel (18 or 20) is welded to the reinforcement, and all this is poured with concrete. The channel is set to the “zero” level, that is, it must be on the same level with the ground level or the material with which the yard is finished.

There is a cheaper and faster option, but in terms of reliability it is inferior to the one described above. Three screw metal piles are screwed into the ground, a channel is welded to them.

Installation of roller bearings

Studs are welded to the embedded channel, then platforms with rollers are attached to them on bolted joints. Sometimes you can find options when the platforms are welded immediately to the mortgage. It is not right. There is a fairly high probability that the foundation or fence post will shrink. Even a small shift - and your gate will not work. If the rollers can be removed from the studs, the studs can be digested and everything put back together, then how to correct if the platform is welded? Cutting down? Difficult, long, no guarantees. So in this case it is better to do everything according to the rules.

When buying, pay attention to the roller carriages and the rollers themselves. These are necessarily sealed rolling bearings. They are usually arranged in two rows of 4 pieces each. The lubricant in them must be frost-resistant - the lower temperature limit is -60 ° C. Examine the platform on which they are mounted. It should be steel, cast, good metal with a galvanized surface, coated with a protective lubricant.

Roll rollers. Everyone should ride effortlessly, and should not have play (should not wobble from side to side). Then you can be sure that the gate will move easily and the sliding mechanism will work for a long time (some companies give a guarantee of 10 years). After all, most of the load falls on the rollers, because their quality is a key point, as is the balanced design of the canvas.

The remaining stages of installation will be more clearly described in the photo report: the gates were assembled independently, without the involvement of specialists.

Do-it-yourself sliding gates: photo report with explanations

These gates are made on the basis of a ready-made kit, they made the frame themselves, they also mounted it themselves

The gates were placed in Moscow, respectively, the prices are capital. They were installed in 2010, since then the kits have become much cheaper. For example, the “fresh” price of a drive for a web weighing no more than 400 kg (up to 1.2 tons is available) is about $ 100, but this is a budget option. During construction, components from Rolling Center (the best on the market at that time) with a 6-meter-long drive beam were purchased. The top catcher and bracket were also ordered separately. Everything cost about $600 including shipping.

The following items were also purchased:

profile pipe 80*60 mm - 6 m, 60*40 mm - 18 m, 40*20 mm - 36 m;
channel - 180 mm - 3 meters, 200 mm - 2.4 meters;
reinforcement 12 mm - 6 m;
electrodes - 2 kg;
paint - 3 cans, brushes, rivets;
cement M-400 - 5 bags;

First of all, we welded the frame for the gate with a counterweight. The frame (in black) was made from a profile pipe 60 * 40 mm, jumpers and the inner frame (lilac) from a pipe 40 * 20 mm. At the bottom, a guide beam is welded with a cut down.

The inner frame was welded indented from the edge - 20 mm on each side. So it is more convenient then to fix the profiled sheet, if desired, you can sheathe it from the inside.

First, the foundation was poured. Reinforcement was installed in it, on top of the channel with the back up. Close to the channel are two racks made of profiled pipe 80 * 60 mm. One stand is adjacent to the post, the second is set vertically at a distance of 120 cm. Then rollers are hung on them, which hold the canvas from above. On the other hand, a 180 mm channel was installed along the counter post.

Catchers are fixed on the counterpart to the channel at the top and bottom, which will not allow the gate to hang out in the wind.

The next step is to install the roller plates. They are attached to mortgages. In this case, it is a channel, because the space turned out to be large. When they made the foundation, they made it too high, because the plates were welded directly to the mortgage. This is impractical: if the roller breaks, it will be problematic to change it. Usually a platform is welded, to which a platform with rollers is then bolted.

Roller platforms are welded and they are “run over” by rollers

The finished gate frame is simply rolled onto fixed rollers.

After installation, plugs are put on the support beam at both ends. On the far side, a thrust wheel is also installed, which, in the closed position, drives into the lower trap, lifting the gate and removing the load from the rollers.

Now, so that the gate does not “walk” in the upper part (they are not fixed by anything now), sets of upper rollers are attached to the racks (80 * 60 mm) - one per rack. They are practically put on the frame. Now the rollers inside will hold it at the top.

All do-it-yourself sliding gates are assembled and ready for operation.

What do sliding gates look like from the yard

If you have any questions, watch the video. A ready-made kit is assembled in it, the whole process will become clearer.

Video

Several videos with different designs of sliding gates. The first is cantilever on the middle beam. There will be no problems with snow, but the appearance from the yard is below average.

Economy option: sliding gates for summer cottages. The design is extremely simple.

Another do-it-yourself option. Here in the pipe 60 * 60 mm, propylene clearance, into which the rollers are inserted. The design is taken standard, assembled from different components.