Petunia after pinching. What is pinching plants - main characteristics. What is the pinching process?

For lush flowering of petunia, proper care is necessary, namely pinching the shoots. Despite watering, feeding, and loosening, petunia throws out few flower stalks and looks like a sparse plant: few buds, legible stems. Pinching is the key to abundant flowering, splendor and decorativeness of the bush. To get a flowering bush, it is necessary to carry out pruning work.

Description and characteristics of the petunia plant

Petunia belongs to the decorative species of nightshade plants. Flowers are grown in different colors, sizes, shapes. Plants do not require difficult care. The plant's homeland is South America. This is an annual plant distinguished by large bell-shaped flowers.

Decorative vegetation is grown to decorate balconies, verandas, window openings, arches, and gazebos. The leaves of the flower come out of the cuttings one by one. The shape of the leaves depends on the variety. The bush has a green, branched form.

For your information: the variety of varieties and colors of buds amazes with its choice from old to black shades. Popular color palette: pink, red, blue, purple. There are flowers with variegated bright patterns and velvety edges.

How and why to pinch petunia correctly

Pinching a petunia is the process of pruning the shoots at the top of the plant to create a full, luxurious bloom. After pruning, the plant actively produces side shoots, the bush becomes strong, spreading, healthy with many flowers and buds. Pinching improves the quality and duration of flowering.

During flower processing, dry stems, wilted and faded buds are removed. On hot days, frequent spraying is necessary. You can’t spray it during the daytime; a moistened plant can get burned in the scorching sun. The first pinching is done after the flower has acclimatized in a new place after transplantation.

Do all varieties of petunias need to be pinched?

To get a lush and flowering plant, almost all varieties of flowers are pinched. An exception to pinching is found in the Alderman variety. This is a compact and lush plant with abundant flowering. The bush requires shaping only if it has fallen on its side or stretched out. Care, feeding, watering, spraying, removing faded buds and dry parts of the flower is done with all varieties of petunias.

Time to pinch petunia

The period after transplanting into containers, soil or flower pots is considered a suitable time for the procedures.

If you do not pinch, the plant develops green mass growth (in one branch). The shoots are long and not beautiful (like whips), there are few flowers.

Important: pruning is carried out only on healthy plants; the procedure can harm weak flowers.

Caring for petunia after pinching

It is important to provide petunias with care after pruning. Feed regularly and correctly to ensure abundant flowering and growth of stems and leaves. Among fertilizers, nitrogen-containing ones are selected. It is recommended to use combined fertilizers (nitrogen + phosphorus + potassium). Nitrogen fertilizing is responsible for increasing the amount of green mass.

To ensure abundant flowering, petunia is fertilized with a composition containing potassium and phosphorus. The best results are obtained with liquid fertilizers applied during watering. Dry formulations and granules are available for sale. The granular form of fertilizer is applied during planting, then the granules slowly dissolve during watering. A one-time application of dry fertilizer provides care throughout the season. Fertilizers are purchased in specialized markets or gardening stores.

Not only flowers, but also leaves need feeding. For this purpose, there are fertilizers in sprayers, thanks to which the stems and foliage receive vitamin and mineral support. The compositions are prepared from products intended for dilution in water. Spraying is carried out with a spray bottle.

1. Excessive moisture can harm the plant. It is required to adhere to: morning and evening watering.
2. The beauty of the plant also depends on the temperature (at least 15 degrees during the day, at night at least 10).

Petunia cuttings after pinching

Cuttings are fresh planting material. To obtain young shoots, medium-sized stems are suitable. For successful rooting you need:

• removing the lower leaves;
• placing the stem in a glass of water;
• When the roots appear, plant the seedlings in a pot.

You can immediately root the cuttings in light substrates - 2/3 sand, 1/3 garden soil. The sections are powdered with Kornevin, moved into a pot, and a transparent jar, plastic bottle or bag is placed on top. Watering is carried out through trays. After 1.5 weeks, roots appear on the plant.

When the petunia in the ground gets stronger and takes root, pinching can be done to promote lush flowering and growth. To preserve its decorative appearance, careful care, spraying, watering and fertilizing are required.

How to pinch different types of petunias

Do all petunia varieties require pruning?

hanging plant

The ampelous species has a genetic predisposition to the formation of branched bushes. Mature plants do not require pruning. It is enough to simply remove faded buds and seed boxes. Then the power of the plant will be aimed at stimulating new flowers and gorgeous flowering.

It is recommended to carry out early panzerization in seedlings. Pruning the main shoot is the key to the active growth of lateral stepsons.

Important: Excessive moisture can cause an outbreak of fungal diseases. Thinning is recommended for good ventilation.

Cascade plant

After panning, cascading flowers are pinched 2 more times, sometimes one pruning is enough. Repeated work is carried out at intervals of 30 days. Pruning is done with a clean, sharp tool: pruning shears, scissors.
After pinching, the damaged area is treated with disinfectant powder. Charcoal or activated carbon will do. Pinching is carried out on a warm and dry day so that the sections dry faster.

bush plant

It definitely needs to be pinched. If the flower has few side stems, the bush is trimmed.

double plant

Requires the formation of flowering by pinching the central part. Buds that have bloomed, damaged and dried foliage are removed from all varieties of petunias.

Is it possible to pinch petunia when it blooms?

If the plant is blooming and the time for pinching has come, work is not prohibited. The only condition is to cut 2-3 shoots. After work, feeding is required. If you do not form the bush in a timely manner, the plant will look sparse.

To grow beautiful bushes, you must follow the recommendations of professional florists and experienced gardeners, namely:

• work is carried out using sterile equipment;
• a sharp tool ensures an even cut without burrs;
• attentiveness to weak shoots;
• morning and evening spraying;
• pinches in 2-3 approaches.

After pruning, the plant slows down the formation of buds for 2-3 weeks. At this time, petunia needs spraying and feeding. Large petunia copes better with changes in the crown. It is not recommended to plant different varieties of flowers together.

The plant soil requires timely elimination of weeds and pests. Withered flowers, foliage, and damaged stems should always be removed, otherwise the plant will waste energy on forming seeds.

Conclusion

When growing petunias without pruning, you will not get a lush bush. Pinching stimulates flowering. The procedure is carried out to obtain a beautiful head of flowers on the plant, otherwise few buds are formed, and the stems grow in random strands. You can plant several colors of petunias in one flowerbed. Flowers require regular care. The plant needs loose soil with sufficient watering, spraying, ventilation, and fertilizing. If you follow the recommendations for caring for petunia, the plant will delight you with lush color for 5-6 months.

Pinching plants (pinching, scientifically - pinching) is a special agrotechnical technique. In gardening practice, pinching means removing (breaking off, cutting off) the top of a green (soft) shoot on a plant with your fingers (nails). We use pinching on some types of flowers, vegetables, trees, and berries. Pinching and pinching (for example) are usually considered different procedures, although confusion in terminology is sometimes observed. Rather, these activities are multidirectional in their purpose: pinching is the removal of branches for the sake of improved supply to the center, while pinching plants starts the opposite process.

Pinching is done to redistribute feeding flows and activate branching, in some cases it leads to inhibition of growth processes and ripening of wood (but sometimes it also has the opposite effect). It is believed that such injury to plants is minimal and heals quickly. Sometimes pinching is desirable, sometimes it is dangerous. It is used consciously, depending on the variety, type of climate, weather. There are no uniform recommendations on this matter, but there are certain “rules of the game.”

Terminologically and essentially, pinching plants is also distinguished from the procedure of plucking out unnecessary buds, buds and ovaries, as well as pruning (and breaking out) leaves, branches, and flower stalks.

The main thing in the formation of plants

General rules on deadlines

Early cutting off the top makes the flower bushes more luxuriant, but delays the flowering period and, sometimes, reduces the size of the corollas. Some plants may not have time to bloom at all (September flowers, chrysanthemums, dahlias).

The first half of the season is the phase of active vegetation: pinching provokes tillering of the plant, and in some trees, the development of potential fruit-bearing buds to replace the “empty” growth buds. At the end of summer, a similar technique (in combination with minimizing nitrogen nutrition) can contribute to an increase in the quality and quantity of fruits (for example, in tomatoes) and the ripening of wood.

In northern and temperate latitudes, late-summer pinching of wintering plants can provoke untimely growth, delay lignification, and worsen wintering (in grapes, raspberries, trees, etc.). Incorrect pinching is more dangerous than not pinching at all.

Which plants benefit from pinching micro-operations?

Vegetables, melons and greens

Brussels sprouts

A textbook example of a plant subject to mandatory pinching. When tiny rudiments of heads of cabbage appear, we must cut off the top.

Tomatoes

Another classic of growth limitation. It is well known that in areas with a relatively short summer it is necessary to remove the crown of indeterminate varieties in a timely manner (approximately a month before the end of the growing season, approximately in August). Similar procedures are also carried out for peppers, eggplants, other nightshades, and physalis.

Melon

In melons, female flowers usually bloom in the third stage of branches. It is necessary to pincer the melon bushes three times: for the first time - above the fourth leaf, then - we repeat this for each of the newly grown shoots; the third time - towards the end of the plant's growing season, we cut off the tops of the vines, redirecting the nutrition to the growing and ripening ovaries.

Watermelon

With watermelons, on the contrary, at the beginning of the season you should try not to damage the main vine of the plant. We pinch out the growing points later, when a reasonable (moderate) number of ovaries have grown, in order to limit their number.

cucumbers

Fans of non-hybrid varieties of cucumbers use double pinching (as on melons), stimulating the regrowth of third-order shoots.

When cultivating hybrids indoors and on trellises, we sometimes pinch off the main stem when it grows too long (naturally, closer to the end of the season). We pincer the tops of our stepchildren when there is a lack of light and nutrition.

(Some vegetable growers find it helpful to remove the tendrils from cucumbers.)

Pumpkins, vine and climbing squashes

When there are already several ovaries, we cut off the tops of the lashes. We pinch off the top of the branches as soon as the fruit sets and a pair of leaves grow above it.

Beans (climbing, including grain)

We remove the tops that reach the end of the trellis. This technique promotes the full ripening of grain (especially in regions with short summers).

Basil

We perform early pinching to obtain lush bushes.

Annual flowers

Fortunately, you can safely pinch them off without worrying about winter hardiness. This procedure gives volume and adds attractiveness. However, it should be remembered that plants may bloom later and the full-fledged seed material does not always ripen.

Ornamental perennials

Caution should be exercised with late-flowering and capricious plants: with excessive growth of side shoots, there is not always enough nutrition for decent flowering.

For clematis, pinching adds bushiness, but flowers on growing branches appear later, and their corollas are slightly smaller than expected (although the total number may increase).

For bushes to be full and to correct the shape of the crown, we pinch them in the spring and early summer so that the regrown branches become woody by winter.

Seedlings

Branched plant seedlings are more valuable than leggy ones. At the beginning of the season we remove the tops, and towards the end of the season we do this work again (for timely suspension of growth and good lignification).

Yagodniki

Grape

The most difficult crop to master for beginners, in areas atypical for viticulture. Excessive “raging” reduces the yield, the size of the plant’s berries, and the size of the bunches; this may also affect winter hardiness. According to the rules, you need to regularly pinch off the branches; It is also not recommended to give free rein to the main shoots. Specific recommendations strongly depend on the climate, microclimate, varietal characteristics, age of the bush, type of winter shelter and other factors. Beginners, timid, overly busy winegrowers can be given the following advice: in order not to harm the grape plant, it is better not to touch it at all during the summer (especially if you have not understood the rules of formation or have not received advice from experienced colleagues); Carry out one competent pruning before wintering.

Raspberries and blackberries

In the southern regions, with mild winters, summer pinching of these berry crops allows the formation of branched bushes that will bring high yields next year. In the middle zone and northern regions, the wood of such lush bushes does not ripen well, and in winter they often freeze quite a bit. For these types of terrain, it is sometimes advised to pinch off the green tops of raspberries and blackberries in early autumn so that the plant stems become lignified faster. Most experienced northern raspberry growers do not do this, because a prolonged autumn can provoke the development of lateral branches, which will deplete the bushes and reduce their winter hardiness.

Apple and pear trees

A separate branch of horticulture is formed by the science of proper pinching of fruit trees, especially young ones. Timely and regular removal of the green growth points of the plant allows you to adjust the shape and height of the crown without causing large wounds, form a convenient central conductor and remove its unsuccessful competitors, avoid the terrible topping, and most importantly, turn the growth branches into fruit-bearing ones, overgrown with fruit buds.

Multi-colored, voluminous petunia bushes have already won the hearts of many experienced and novice flower growers and gardeners. Their flowering period is mid-spring until the first frost. They decorate summer cottages, flower beds, balconies, verandas, restaurant and cafe areas. This flowering plant is not whimsical. However, one of the most important agrotechnical issues deserves attention, since the development and abundance of petunia flowering depends on this. In this article you will learn how to pinch petunia.

Description and characteristics of the petunia plant

Let's start the description of the petunia plant with the fact that it comes from Argentina and Brazil. In their homeland, the plants are perennial, but here they do not overwinter and are used as annual plants. Of course, modern garden hybrids are very different from their wild ancestors. The main breeding work on their creation began in the middle of the 19th century in America and continues throughout the world to this day. There are more than 25 species, among which there are small-flowered forms with a plant height of 20 to 40 cm, blooming 70–75 days after germination, and large-flowered forms, the height of which can reach 60 cm. These petunias bloom two weeks later than small-flowered ones. There are terry ampelous forms, the shoots of which can reach more than 1 m in length.

Petunia leaves can acquire light or dark shades of green, their shape is oval, length from 6 to 12 cm. Petunia stems are straight, with densely located branches.

During the development process, a bush of the correct silhouette is formed, which eliminates the need for decorative pruning. The only thing that is required is pinching the top for more intensive growth in width.

In its natural habitat, petunia reproduces by seed. Its seeds ripen in a two-leaf capsule and are very small in size (0.8 mm). In one box, about 100 seeds can quietly ripen and then be sown.

To obtain planting material, the most decorative bushes are transplanted into pots in the fall, and used for cuttings in the spring. Large-flowered petunia is more thermophilic than small-flowered petunia. In rainy weather, it loses its decorative effect, and the agricultural technology for its cultivation is more complex. Therefore, it is more often used as a potted crop.

Why do you pinch petunia?

As a result of pinching, the petunia begins to actively produce side shoots. This makes the bush look more lush, stronger and healthier. More new branches guarantee more buds and flowers. At the same time, the quality of flowering also improves: it becomes long-lasting and abundant.

In addition, pinching petunia is one of the ways to propagate it. The resulting cuttings are placed in water or in moist soil under a jar. They produce roots quite quickly, after which they are ready for planting.

Do all varieties of petunias need to be pinched?

Old amateur varieties that have been bred long ago or plants grown from seeds collected from their flowers must be pinched. As a rule, such petunia in its natural form is far from compact and lush.

Breeders place strict demands on modern hybrid petunia not only for the beauty and splendor of flowering, but also for the simplification of plant care.

Petunia of modern varieties or hybrids does not require pinching or requires minimal intervention in the formation of the crown.

However, even on modern varieties it is impossible to do without pinching. Often, when petunia seedlings are grown at home with a lack of light and in cramped conditions, at a temperature that is too high for it, the plants stretch out.

In this case, you can spray the seedlings with Atlet or another similar product (which is what is used in industrial greenhouses) or do pinching. Many gardeners are not in favor of using excessive “chemicals” even on flowers and prefer to pinch petunia.

The rapid formation of side shoots is facilitated by lower night temperatures.

Time to pinch petunia

Has the plant started to grow actively? This is a sure sign that you need to start pinching the bushes. This phenomenon is associated with the process of growth along the stem. First you need to find the bottom of the branch. Four or five leaves are counted from it. The upper part of the shoot is called the zone where the flower begins to grow. It should be plucked off with your fingers. After this, growth “in length” slows down somewhat, however, the activity of additional lateral parts of the shoot is activated. After such a simple operation, more flowers appear. This method should be repeated after one month.

How to pinch petunia step by step

We leave at least 4-6 true leaves on the bush. Using small scissors or fingernails, we remove the top of the plant, that is, we disrupt the growth point.

Now the existing side shoots will grow more actively, and new ones will begin to form. Thus, the petunia bush becomes branched and dense. This procedure can be repeated several times as the shoots grow, so we will get a large number of branches on which there will be many flowers.

If you allow the crown of the petunia to grow a little more, then the cut off part can be immediately planted in a separate pot.

Caring for petunia after pinching

Caring for petunias does not end with pinching. To prevent the bushes from losing their decorative value, you need to constantly monitor the flowers, removing dried petals and inflorescences along with the seed pods. They should be removed so that the plant does not waste nutrients on setting seeds. All this will contribute to the rapid growth of new, larger buds. In addition, dry parts of the plant greatly spoil the appearance of the entire bush.

Cuttings of petunias after pinching

Large apical shoots after cutting are excellent planting material for growing new plants.

For quick and successful rooting, they are dipped in a container of water. To prevent them from rotting, the lower leaves that come into contact with water are removed, leaving only a few leaves on top. After the roots appear, the young plants are planted in the ground.

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To form decorative and abundantly flowering bushes, plants require proper care and attention. From the moment the seeds are sown, petunias require twice picking, pinching and spraying of the aerial parts. In addition, do not forget about regular watering, fertilizing and removing dried flower buds and shoots. New flower buds will appear where old flowers are cut.

Pinching petunias is the surest way to improve the quality, duration and abundance of flowering. Despite the diversity of species, breeders are working on new varieties. If you pass by a flower bed with petunias, take a closer look at them, you will certainly see flowers that are unfamiliar to you before.

Growing petunias has become a very popular activity. Many factors contribute to this. Firstly, varieties and hybrids of exceptional beauty and variety of shapes, shades and types have appeared on the market. Secondly, growing this flower is quite simple; you don’t need to be an inveterate gardener: with regular care, it pleases the eye with bright colors until frost. And thirdly, if an annual plant is brought into a warm room, it can easily become a perennial and produce cuttings for vegetative propagation in the spring. This is how all the features of hybrid forms are conveyed when it is impossible to find seeds of the variety you like.

A little about the amazing transformation

The familiar petunia is no longer the shy one with monotonous small flowers that was familiar to us a couple of decades ago. During this time, breeders have developed a huge number of varieties and hybrids of the most fantastic colors, which also exude an amazing aroma. A previously unknown ampelous variety of petunia has appeared, a variety with huge double flowers.

In its homeland, in Montevideo, this ornamental perennial grows and blooms almost all year round. In our conditions, this riot of colors is interrupted by the first frosts. Petunia does not always survive until autumn in such a well-groomed condition, as in illustrations in landscape design publications, where it looks like a ball, seemingly consisting of only flowers. However, every amateur gardener can form it in this way.

Why is bush formation necessary?

In order for petunia to begin flowering as early as possible, it... Before flowering, the seedlings will have to live indoors for 2-3 months. It is not always possible to create the necessary microclimate for delicate sprouts or to find enough space and light sources. The seedlings stretch out, become fragile, lean to one side, and their decorative qualities suffer as a result.

Pinching, or pinching, is one of the most common techniques in floriculture. It is used to stimulate the growth of side shoots and make the bush more leafy and compact. Tweezing is used not only by flower growers, but also by gardeners and vegetable gardeners. For example, if you pinch the central shoot of cucumbers, the most productive side shoots will grow. And pinching the stepsons on a tomato will help it not waste energy, but use it to form fruits.

How and when to pinch?

Pinching petunias should be done twice - at the seedling stage and after planting in open ground. If the second pinching can be neglected due to lack of time, then pinching at the seedling stage is mandatory. It is carried out when the young seedling has 5-6 leaves, maybe a little less, but not more than this amount.

The algorithm is quite simple.

1. Using a miniature pruner, scissors, or just your fingers, you need to pinch the stem of the young plant above the 5-6th leaf.
2. In order for the seedling to recover faster after this procedure, you can water or spray it with a growth stimulator such as Epin or Zircon.
3. A month later, when new side shoots begin to grow, you need to tweezer again. Now it is carried out not only on the central stem, but also on the side shoots, which after this procedure will sprout third-order shoots.
4. After repeated pinching, foliar and root feeding is carried out with complete mineral fertilizer and growth stimulant.
5. It is advisable to pinch ampelous varieties every 3-4 weeks.

All instruments for this operation must be, if not sterile, then at least sharp and clean. When growing an annual plant in greenhouse conditions, the formation of a bush is carried out after the picked seedlings have taken root completely.

What to do with cuttings?

If the size of the branches separated from the mother plant is large enough, they should be used to propagate the plant you like. To do this, the cuttings must have at least 5-6 leaves and a fairly strong stem. It is advisable to use planting material for propagation after repeated cuttings, when the bush becomes stronger and its stems larger. They will quickly take root in a container of water, in which, for greater success, you need to dissolve a little root growth stimulator.

Don't forget to cut off the lower leaves that come into contact with water to prevent the plant from rotting. Only the top few leaves remain on the cutting.

When young roots form, you can carefully plant the petunia in a container with light, fertile soil. If you took cuttings from hybrid seedlings, the new specimen grown from the cuttings will completely retain the characteristics and appearance of the original one, which is impossible when propagated from seeds collected by yourself.

To form a highly decorative plant, pinching alone is not enough. If you do not take care of an adult annual, then no matter what capabilities the breeders put into it, it will not show what it is capable of.

It is worth remembering the main points of qualified care.

1. Regular root and foliar feeding with microelements and minerals to increase vegetative mass.
2. Careful selection of nutritious soil for pots and balcony boxes - it should be light and fertile.
3. Adding iron to the fertilizer mixture to prevent chlorosis.
4. Regular abundant watering (up to 6 liters of water per balcony box).
5. Removing faded buds to stimulate lush flowering.
6. Treatment against aphids with a strong stream of water or pesticides, although pests do not settle on healthy, well-groomed plants.
7. Treatment with sulfur preparations in rainy weather to prevent powdery mildew.

If you carry out the correct pinching and follow the rules of care, you will admire the long-lasting flowering of this amazingly beautiful plant for a long time.

Petunia is a perennial, highly ornamental plant, grown as an annual in the middle zone. The culture is loved by flower growers for its long flowering, accompanied by the formation of a large number of bright colorful buds, a variety of species and varieties that can satisfy the most demanding taste.

Petunia is grown from seeds. In the southern regions, sowing is carried out immediately in open ground. In medium - using seedlings. The growing process is characterized by the need to care for young plants, including pinching. Without this procedure, it is impossible to achieve long and abundant flowering.

How is pinching done?

In plant growing, pinching refers to the removal of the upper part of a shoot with several leaves. Manipulation is carried out by hand or using sharp instruments, including tweezers. For this reason, the procedure received another name - pinching.

Pinching is carried out in the early stages of plant development, during active growth. Shoots that are prone to stretching are pinched repeatedly.

The step-by-step process of pinching consists of performing 2 simple steps:

• choosing a shoot for pinching;
• removing its top part by hand or using a tool.

Why do you need to pinch petunias?

It is necessary to pinch petunia, regardless of its variety (bush, hanging, cascading). The shoots of this flower tend to elongate. The consequence of this is their weakening, leading to the loss of the overall decorative effect of the plant, an unattractively formed crown in the form of long poorly branched shoots and weak flowering. Pinching will help avoid this.

This is what young petunias look like when grown without pinching.

After removing the top part, the shoot stops growing upward and thickens due to the influx of nutrients. The plant becomes stronger. New leaves appear on it and existing leaves grow stronger.

Petunia after correctly performed first tweezing

Buds emerge in the axils, from which lateral shoots develop, contributing to increased bushiness. The more such branches are formed, the more buds there will be. Abundant and long-lasting flowering is another advantage of tweezing.

Pinching result

Are all varieties of petunias subject to pinching?

Long-existing or simple varieties (cheap, sold in amateur packaging) must be pinched. New professional hybrids with high bushiness have been obtained through selection. Their crown need not be formed.

When purchasing new varieties, pay attention to the instructions on the packaging.

Features of the procedure

Despite the simplicity of pinching petunias, there are several important rules:

1. 1. Only young specimens that have reached a height of more than 5 cm and have 6-8 leaves are pinched.
2. 2. The first pinching is carried out after rooting of young plants when they are transplanted into open ground. In the case of growing seedlings at home - a few days after the first picking. Plants weakened by transplantation, as well as overgrown ones, painfully endure this procedure.
3. 3. It is important not to miss the timing of pinching. Delaying has a negative impact on the further development of plants. Adult petunias are not pinched; only faded buds must be removed.
4. 4. Repeated pinching is carried out no earlier than a month after the first, when the shoots reach a length of 10-15 cm. During it, only the very tips of the shoots are removed.
5. 5. Most varieties are pinched 2 times. Ampelous petunias require regular adjustment of the shape of the bush. Therefore, they are pinched more often - once a month.
6. 6. After the procedure, petunia needs good care:

• regular soil moisture;
• repeated (2-3 times a day) spraying of shoots with settled water at room temperature;
• Constant, 1-2 times a week, feeding with specialized fertilizers for flowering plants.

You should not overuse pinching: each procedure delays the start of flowering by 2-3 weeks.