Do I need to pinch petunia seedlings and when? Pinching petunia for lush flowering. How to pinch petunias correctly

This flower fascinates, captivates with its simplicity and grace; flowers of different shades abundantly strew the fragile branches and delight with their appearance from May until the autumn cold. Those who once grew petunia and fell in love with it will be interested to know why pinching petunia is important, the features of this manipulation in different species and when to do it when growing a plant from seeds at home.

It is necessary to distinguish between pinching and trimming. They are carried out at different times using different technologies. If you buy seedlings, the first pinching has already been done. The importance of subsequent pinching and pruning will depend on the variety. Modern varieties of some bush and cascade petunias bred by breeders do not particularly need pinching, since the ability to branch is inherent in them through many years of selective selection. But most varieties still require pinching.

During the growth process, subsequent pinching is carried out if it is necessary to give the plant a certain shape or to grow an evenly developed bush. When performing repeated pinching, only branches that are very elongated compared to other branches are trimmed.

This cascading petunia needs drastic pruning.

Repeated pinching is sometimes called trimming. If the plants are poorly formed, they are not pinched, but pruned. Trim the branches, leaving two or three internodes from the ground. New branches begin to grow from them, and after three weeks the plant takes on the appearance of a beautiful lush bush dotted with many flowers.

What is the pinching process?

Pinching seedlings is carried out to form petunias due to an increase in the number of lateral shoots. By neglecting this operation, you can end up with an elongated, pitiful-looking plant. The bushes are pinched for the first time when the top of the seedling grows up to eight centimeters long.

Correctly formed petunia bush

When planting plants in the ground or containers in a permanent place, it is necessary to fertilize and water them on time. When the side branches grow ten centimeters, it is advisable to pinch the petunia again. It is as important as the first for the following reasons:

an increase in the number of side shoots gives an increase in the number of flowers;
By pinching, you can correct mistakes in the initial formation of the bush: make the bush more fluffy.

The first pinch when growing petunia from seeds

When grown from seeds, you can get interesting varieties that are rarely sold as seedlings. It will take extra effort, maximum attention and care to obtain healthy plants.

After germination, the plant, with normal development, is ready to flower in about twelve weeks. The initial formation of a petunia bush (pinching) must be done when the first six leaves appear, after picking the seedlings. This is a very important stage in growing a plant from seeds.

Petunia seedlings stretch upward in one shoot. It must be pinched over the fourth or fifth leaf, using a clean blade or sterile scissors, carefully cutting off the growing point. The cut can be sprinkled with activated carbon powder or wood ash.

The plant will grow in the lateral axils near the leaves. After a short period of time, several side branches will grow. This is how the correct formation of seedlings begins. If a petunia has many branches, it will produce many flower buds. With good care and sufficient lighting, this plant blooms profusely for a long time.

Further formation is carried out monthly by planting the petunia in a permanent place, pinching or cutting off the branches. Some gardeners who pinch petunia correctly are able to achieve flowering all year round by growing it as a perennial at home. This also requires a special temperature regime and artificial lighting of plants in winter.

Features of various types

There are many hybrid varieties. They are grown to decorate balconies, to decorate alpine slides and flower beds, or as a houseplant. Varieties of petunias differ in the direction of growth of the stem, the shape of the flower, and have their own characteristics of growing and pinching. Knowing the varietal characteristics, you can plan what a loggia or flower bed will look like.

According to the shape of the petunia stem, there are:

bush,
ampelous,
cascading.

Bush petunia is used to decorate flower beds. The growth of the branches is directed upward, forming a compact bush dotted with flowers. It can grow without repeated pinching if the seedlings are formed correctly.

Cascade petunia has branches that grow overhanging from a flower pot. Cascade varieties are great for decorating balconies, loggias, and alpine slides. You can get a “floral carpet” from one plant, decorating the wall of the house under the window or the flower bed in front of the house with many flowers. Correct pinching of cascading petunia involves the initial formation of the bush at the seedling stage. Of course, the appearance of the plant depends on its variety. For example, Typhoon Wave is a fundamentally new, unparalleled series of hybrids. A powerful, spectacular plant with shoots 1-1.5 m long. The total area of the flowering plant is more than 2 square meters. meters! Flowers about 5 cm cover the plant with a continuous cover.

Ampelous petunias grow with long branches hanging from flowerpots. They differ from cascade ones in their more fragile stems and the direction of branch growth downwards. This is the most demanding type of petunias when it comes to pinching, but even if this manipulation is carried out correctly and in a timely manner, the plant will never please you with a very lush bush.

The shape of petunia flowers is:

simple;
terry;
small-flowered;
grandiflora.

Terry petunia, when propagated by seeds, does not retain the doubleness of the flower. Therefore, it is propagated only by cuttings, using seedlings. Cuttings are harvested during repeated pruning and rooted in a light nutrient substrate without covering with film.

We wish you success in growing beautiful, lush petunias!

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In order for lush and beautiful bushes to please the eye with abundant flowering, you need to know exactly how to pinch petunia correctly. If petunias are allowed to grow on their own, they will simply stretch out and the flowers will be small. Correct pinching (pinching) of the main growth point will certainly stimulate the lateral stems to grow and after 12 days, the edge after two weeks, flower ovaries will appear on them, which is what we are striving for.

How to properly pinch petunia in the later stages of development to give it a certain shape? In purchased seedlings, the first pinching has already been done. Repeated - performed depending on the variety. Therefore, we will focus on how to properly pinch petunias of unpretentious varieties and breeding (here are the best varieties of these beautiful flowers) hybrids.

The importance of pinching for any plant

Pinching is cutting off either with scissors or breaking off the top of the stem with your fingers. After it is carried out, the remainder of the shoot thickens, the buds in the axils become larger, and the color of the leaves becomes richer. The process is performed so that young, strong stems with flowers grow and the plant acquires a delightful appearance.

It should be noted that the method only works if pinching is done before the end of the growing season.

First pinch - on petunia seedlings

We perform pinching in the following way:

We form a seedling as soon as it begins to gain strength and grow.
The best time for pinching is when the petunias have developed several (5 - 6) leaves. If this is not done on time, the seedlings will stretch out, the bush will not have a spherical appearance, and the stems will not branch.
When planting a flower in the ground, pinching is performed after it has rooted and adapted (usually at the end of May). In order for it to take root well, it needs to organize suitable conditions for development: we plant the seedlings sparingly, then they will develop better, we fertilize (feed) them at the root, regularly moisten them and sprinkle the leaves with water.
When keeping seedlings in a greenhouse (we grow them together with others), we perform pinching only after diving. Plants quickly (within a few days) adapt. And then they can be cut off.
Forming is done with pruning shears or fingers. Above the last (5 - 6) leaf of the petunia, remove the apical bud. This will create a new point for the stems to grow and branch.

After all the steps, we place the final emphasis on dusting the cut flowers with wood ash or activated carbon powder. In order for the seedling to recover faster, it would be a good idea to spray or shed it with plant development stimulants: “Zircon” or “Epin”.

After the event, the seedlings slow down, but gain strength. The petunia species becomes spherical when the side stems grow.

Shoot length for separation

The separated part of the shoot should be 4 centimeters, but it’s still better to be longer. If you trim the thinnest place on the stem (tip of the shoot) of a flower, then other shoots, developing at this place, will break off in bad weather and wind conditions.

Do not forget to fertilize the soil weekly, and regularly moisten the plant shoots, preferably every second (third) day.

Repeated pinching of petunias after planting in open ground

Pinching must be repeated 2 - 3 times, and not only on the central, but also on the side stems of the flowers. We perform this action when they grow to 13 - 15 cm. To improve the shape and rich flowering of petunias, it is advisable to shorten the shoots 28 - 30 days after the first procedure. In this case, the main shoot must have at least 5 leaves.

Ampelous varieties do not need repeated pruning. But in many varieties, one of the branches continues to quickly stretch out, taking away nutrition and strength from the rest. In some cases, an ovary appears on it. Then you need to urgently pinch it with scissors (secateurs). To do this, count 3 - 5 leaves from the bottom and cut off the rest. The petunia's growth point will change. It will not grow upward, but will send out side shoots.

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that after pinching, flowering is delayed by 12 - 14 days. But in the end, not just one flower will bloom, but several, and the buds will be larger.

Before further pinching, you need to wait until the bush grows. After this, we shorten the elongated stems, as a result - the flowers will be denser. In this case, I recommend making the cut closer to the base of the branch, and not pinching only the top.

In order for the vegetation to delight with abundant flowering, this operation must be performed without fail.

We prune an adult flowering plant in order to better develop the bush and increase the time of its splendor.

What to do after pinching

With regular shortening of shoots and increased growth of petunia, constant feeding with a growth stimulant and complete mineral fertilizer is required. Otherwise, many thin stems will develop. You can achieve the best results from the plant only with constant watering and proper care.

We remember that we need to pick off wilted flowers in a timely manner (do not pull them out, but pinch them off from the branch with the peduncle). By forming seed plants, they take away strength from the plant.

In the lion's share of cases, pinching of petunias is carried out 2-3 times: in the seedling phase, after planting in the ground and during the growing season. But if the third pinching can be neglected, then in the phase of seedlings and planting in open soil they are absolutely necessary.

We remember that pruning is stressful for our flowers. For this reason, after it, the bushes freeze a little in development, but the development of lateral stems, which form large buds, increases.

Try not to injure the sprout too much. For tweezing we use clean instruments.
We form the petunia bush in a timely manner. Delaying the process has a bad effect on development.
We carry out pinching monthly.
To prevent the plant from getting burned and dying, we prune it in the evening or in the morning, when the sun's rays are not very active.
We do not throw away the plucked stems, but use them as cuttings (if only they have a stable stem and 5 - 6 leaves). To root, tear off the lower leaves and place them in a jar of water. As soon as the roots grow, we plant the stems in fertile soil. This way you and I will have additional seedlings.

It is important to remember that if you took cuttings from hybrid petunia varieties, the grown specimen will retain the appearance and characteristics of the original one. This cannot be achieved when propagated by seeds.

Petunias are blooming beauties with an obstinate but responsive character. If you constantly take care of them and properly care for them, they will gratefully delight you all summer long.

Pinching petunias to make the bush fuller - video

Growing petunias has become a very popular activity. Many factors contribute to this. Firstly, varieties and hybrids of exceptional beauty and variety of shapes, shades and types have appeared on the market. Secondly, growing this flower is quite simple; you don’t need to be an inveterate gardener: with regular care, it pleases the eye with bright colors until frost. And thirdly, if an annual plant is brought into a warm room, it can easily become a perennial and produce cuttings for vegetative propagation in the spring. This is how all the features of hybrid forms are conveyed when it is impossible to find seeds of the variety you like.

A little about the amazing transformation

The familiar petunia is no longer the shy one with monotonous small flowers that was familiar to us a couple of decades ago. During this time, breeders have developed a huge number of varieties and hybrids of the most fantastic colors, which also exude an amazing aroma. A previously unknown ampelous variety of petunia has appeared, a variety with huge double flowers.

In its homeland, in Montevideo, this ornamental perennial grows and blooms almost all year round. In our conditions, this riot of colors is interrupted by the first frosts. Petunia does not always survive until autumn in such a well-groomed condition, as in illustrations in landscape design publications, where it looks like a ball, seemingly consisting of only flowers. However, every amateur gardener can form it in this way.

Why is bush formation necessary?

In order for petunia to begin flowering as early as possible, it... Before flowering, the seedlings will have to live indoors for 2-3 months. It is not always possible to create the necessary microclimate for delicate sprouts or to find enough space and light sources. The seedlings stretch out, become fragile, lean to one side, and their decorative qualities suffer as a result.

Pinching, or pinching, is one of the most common techniques in floriculture. It is used to stimulate the growth of side shoots and make the bush more leafy and compact. Tweezing is used not only by flower growers, but also by gardeners and vegetable gardeners. For example, if you pinch the central shoot of cucumbers, the most productive side shoots will grow. And pinching the stepsons on a tomato will help it not waste energy, but use it to form fruits.

How and when to pinch?

Pinching petunias should be done twice - at the seedling stage and after planting in open ground. If the second pinching can be neglected due to lack of time, then pinching at the seedling stage is mandatory. It is carried out when the young seedling has 5-6 leaves, maybe a little less, but not more than this amount.

The algorithm is quite simple.

Using a miniature pruner, scissors, or just your fingers, you need to pinch the stem of the young plant above the 5-6th leaf.
In order for the seedling to recover faster after this procedure, you can water or spray it with a growth stimulator such as Epin or Zircon.
A month later, when new side shoots begin to grow, you need to tweezer again. Now it is carried out not only on the central stem, but also on the side shoots, which after this procedure will sprout third-order shoots.
After repeated pinching, foliar and root feeding is carried out with complete mineral fertilizer and growth stimulant.
It is advisable to pinch ampelous varieties every 3-4 weeks.

All instruments for this operation must be, if not sterile, then at least sharp and clean. When growing an annual plant in greenhouse conditions, the formation of a bush is carried out after the picked seedlings have taken root completely.

What to do with cuttings?

If the size of the branches separated from the mother plant is large enough, they should be used to propagate the plant you like. To do this, the cuttings must have at least 5-6 leaves and a fairly strong stem. It is advisable to use planting material for propagation after repeated cuttings, when the bush becomes stronger and its stems larger. They will quickly take root in a container of water, in which, for greater success, you need to dissolve a little root growth stimulator.

Don't forget to cut off the lower leaves that come into contact with water to prevent the plant from rotting. Only the top few leaves remain on the cutting.

When young roots form, you can carefully plant the petunia in a container with light, fertile soil. If you took cuttings from hybrid seedlings, the new specimen grown from the cuttings will completely retain the characteristics and appearance of the original one, which is impossible when propagated from seeds collected by yourself.

To form a highly decorative plant, pinching alone is not enough. If you do not take care of an adult annual, then no matter what capabilities the breeders put into it, it will not show what it is capable of.

It is worth remembering the main points of qualified care.

Regular root and foliar feeding with microelements and minerals to increase vegetative mass.
Careful selection of nutritious soil for pots and balcony boxes - it should be light and fertile.
Adding iron to the fertilizer mixture to prevent chlorosis.
Regular abundant watering (up to 6 liters of water per balcony box).
Removing faded buds to stimulate lush flowering.
Treatment against aphids with a strong stream of water or pesticides, although pests do not settle on healthy, well-groomed plants.
Treatment with sulfur preparations in rainy weather to prevent powdery mildew.

If you carry out the correct pinching and follow the rules of care, you will admire the long-lasting flowering of this amazingly beautiful plant for a long time.

Voluminous multi-colored bushes of double, ampelous, bicolor and single-color petunias have won the hearts of experienced gardeners and beginners. From mid-spring until the first frost, flowers of amazing variety and decorativeness decorate not only summer cottages, but also the balconies of multi-storey buildings, verandas of cottages, city flower beds, cafes and restaurants. The flowers are unpretentious, do not require professional maintenance or special conditions, but they respond favorably to the care of flower growers.

Necessary conditions for pinching petunia

Proper cultivation and formation is an important condition for obtaining a beautiful and healthy bush. In addition to timely sowing and picking, it is necessary to properly pinch the petunia. This means that at a certain stage of growth it needs to remove the top shoots. This procedure will ensure branching of the stems and the formation of many buds on bushy crowns.

To carry out this manipulation you will need the following:

convenient scissors or pruning shears;
strong seedlings with 4 – 5 large leaves at the top;
container for collecting removed cuttings.

How should you pinch petunia?

Before pinching petunia, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for this procedure:

When observing the growth of seedlings, it is necessary to choose a period when they have become a little stronger and began to quickly grow upward. It can have up to 5 - 6 leaves, but no more. If you miss this moment, the seedlings will stretch out. Actually pinching the petunias will not take much time. It is necessary to trim the stem above 5–6 leaves using your fingers or pruning shears.
This forms a new growth point, from which several shoots will begin to grow simultaneously in different directions. During this period, the seedlings may slow down their development, but at the same time they will become a little stronger. When side shoots begin to appear, the bush will take on a more rounded appearance.
If you plan to plant seedlings in open ground, then it is better to pinch them after rooting. The sprout will need several days to adapt. During this period, you need to try to create favorable conditions for the plants to take root:
- seedlings must be planted loosely, observing the conditions of agricultural technology;
- monitor the frequency of watering and spraying;
- Apply a specialized strengthening fertilizer to the roots.

If development occurs in a greenhouse, you can pinch the petunia after picking.

If the cut shoots are not very small, they can be used as cuttings. In order for the cutting to take root, it is placed in a container of water. First you need to remove excess leaves, leaving a few at the top. When the roots appear, they are transplanted into the soil. This way you can get additional young seedlings.

when pinching, try to injure the sprout as little as possible, use clean tools;
a month after the event and the appearance of strong side branches, pinching the tops of the petunias can be repeated;
To plant large buds on new stepsons, use suitable fertilizers; they will make the flowers brighter and larger.

In order for a formed ornamental bush to please with its beautiful appearance for as long as possible, it will need constant care. From the moment of sowing, no replanting, pinching, or spraying of sprouts will be required. Do not forget to water and feed well, remove dried flowers and shoots. In place of the cut old flowers, new branches with buds will appear. Well-groomed colorful petunias will undoubtedly delight you with abundant and long flowering.

How to properly pinch petunia (video)

Petunia is an ornamental plant of the nightshade family. It is distinguished by a variety of flower colors, ease of care, and decorativeness. Petunia is native to South America. This is an annual plant with large and bright bell-shaped flowers. It is grown as a decoration for balconies, verandas, and windows.

Petunia leaves are entire and have short petioles. Depending on the variety, they come in different shapes and sizes. The leaves are arranged alternately. The stems are branched and green.

On a note. The color of petunia flowers is very diverse, from white to black. The most popular among gardeners: pink, red, blue, purple shades. Sometimes the flowers have bright, variegated patterns. And the edges of the petals can be either regular or fringed.

Photo

Topping

Pinching petunias means removing the top shoots. It is produced for the purpose of forming a bush so that the petunia blooms beautifully.

When should you do this?

The most appropriate time for the first pinching is after transplanting the seedlings to their permanent place of residence. This can be open ground, a flowerpot or a container (you can learn about the intricacies of growing petunia in open ground).

It is important to meet several conditions here:

After transplanting, you need to wait about two weeks for the plant to take root and become a little stronger. The length of the shoots should be approximately 8 cm. If the shoots are too small, it is better to give them the opportunity to grow.
You need to make sure that the plant has “gone to the stem”, that is, a period of rapid growth has begun. If this does not happen, then you need to wait some more time.
Be sure to give petunia root fertilizers and spray them as needed.
Repeated pinching can be done after about a month. It is repeated pinching that promotes gorgeous and abundant flowering.

If the plant is not pinched it will continue to grow. That is, there will be abundant growth of green mass. Moreover, the growth will go in one branch. The shoots will become long and ugly, resembling whips. In this case, flowering will be sparse. Therefore, pinching can be called a mandatory procedure.

Important! Only healthy plants can be pinched! If the flower looks unhealthy, is not strong enough or has not grown, then it is better to refrain from the procedure.

Many people wonder how to do pinching correctly, and especially over which leaf. For the procedure to be successful, several rules must be followed:

After pinching, growth may slow down slightly. And flowering will move back a little in time.

Growing and care after pinching:

Regular and correct. This is one of the most important conditions. It provides both abundant flowering and the growth of green mass. This requires fertilizers containing nitrogen. You can use formulations containing equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, or with a predominance of nitrogen. It is nitrogen that promotes the growth of green mass.
To ensure abundant flowering you need to fertilize the flower with compounds containing potassium and phosphorus. The best option is “Bona Forte” and “Garden of Miracles”. The main thing is to remember the correct ratio of trace elements (NPK). Most often, liquid formulations are used for feeding. Less often - dry. But there is another type of fertilizer - long-lasting. They are usually available in granules.
Such fertilizers are applied to the soil before planting. And then, when watered, they gradually dissolve and release beneficial substances to the soil. It is enough to add them to the ground once, and they will feed the plant all season. But there is one serious drawback - the grower cannot control the saturation of plants with fertilizers. Therefore, the use of long-lasting compositions can lead to disastrous consequences.
In addition to root feeding, the flower requires foliar feeding. This procedure is carried out by spraying the flower with fertilizer dissolved in water. This is done using a spray bottle. So necessary substances (vitamins, microelements, amino acids) enter the plant’s body through the stem and leaves.
Correct and spraying. Petunia loves abundant, but not excessive watering. It is advisable to water it in the morning and evening. In this case, the water can be slightly acidified. If the weather is hot, the plant needs regular spraying.
Temperature regime. This will promote the formation of side shoots, as well as prevent growth into one branch. In order for the plant to have a beautiful appearance, in addition to pinching, it requires high temperatures during the day and low temperatures at night. The optimal option is 15-18 degrees during the day and 5-10 at night.