How to make a construction crane with your own hands. How to make a crane with your own hands? How to build your own crane

Light jib cranes with a lifting capacity of up to 1 ton are indispensable when carrying out various electrical, installation and construction works. Thanks to their design, it is possible to install devices in various openings of a building or on ceilings, as well as to move them for convenient use. They are easy to assemble and install, and if necessary, they can be quickly disassembled into their component elements and moved to a suitable location.

The use of such structures is rational in the absence of the possibility of operating other types of hydraulic and hydraulic machines. There are many types of cranes with different designs. They are divided into stationary and mobile. The boom devices are equipped with one electric drive mechanism for moving the load. The crane operates by manual control.

You can independently create a variety of tools and devices that are so necessary for construction and other types of work. Despite the fact that a self-made mini-crane is characterized by a limited transferable load weight (no more than 250 kg), such a design will simplify the implementation of most construction work.

The main task is to select all the tools and parts necessary for creation and subsequent operation. The weight of the prefabricated device can reach up to 300 kg, depending on the materials used. At the same time, it has compact dimensions and the ability to move without preliminary disassembly using a car.

DIY crane: assembly

Using a worm-based gearbox, a cargo winch is formed. It can also provide the creation of a manual drive that simplifies the assembly of the boom winch. The basis for the screw extensions are construction supports. All the elements presented above form the basis of the design. In addition, drums for winches are needed. It is worth noting that not everyone can make them themselves, since the process is complex and labor-intensive, as well as the need for specialized equipment and experience in carrying out such work.

The way out of the situation is rotors from an electric motor, which can be used as a basis and significantly simplify the task. Particular attention should be paid to matching the dimensions of the elements used and the future device. To do this, additional measurements are taken using a ruler.

Additional items

To simplify movement, the platform is equipped with wheels. Elements from the conveyor cart may be useful. When creating the structure, you should not forget about this addition, since it is thanks to it that the simplest crane, assembled with your own hands, moves. To do this, you only need to remove the external support elements, which does not cause any particular difficulties and is done in a short time. It is important to follow safety precautions, in particular the boom must be set to zero level to prevent loss of balance and the crane falling.

Peculiarities

The optimal boom height is 5 meters. For its manufacture, a pipe with a diameter of about 8 cm is used. A profile of two corners is mounted into the base. You also need to create a rotating mechanism to rotate and lift the boom; a car hub from any truck will do for this. There is no need for special materials for the counterweight, since you can use standard bricks for them. You can create a crane with your own hands using both caterpillar tracks and a frame. The last element can be taken from an unused machine.

It is worth noting that there is no need for a brake for the turning mechanism and winch, since it is not needed during the operation of the crane, and the finished device will operate at low speed.

Advantages of the design

A rectangular pipe is suitable for forming an external support structure and a common base. For the latter, according to experts, it will be optimal to use a channel of 200. The length of the thrust screws should be within 50 cm, due to which the crane can be mounted with its own hands on any surface, including those with a large number of irregularities. Thus, there is no need to prepare the site on which the building is being built.

Difficulties sometimes arise with the wheels, since on loose soil they can spin poorly and dig into it. Therefore, it is advisable to carry out work on hard ground. After completion of construction, the structure is disassembled into its component elements for storage.

What can be done for the garage

When repairing a car yourself, there is often a need to remove the engine, so many car owners are wondering how to make a crane with their own hands. The simplest option is a lift, which requires a hand winch, racks on triangular supports with wheels and a transverse pipe.

At the top of the racks, fasteners for the pipe are fixed by welding. A hand winch is welded to the vertical post, and the rollers are mounted on the beam; they are subsequently used to move the cable. In this case, it is not necessary to purchase a winch, since you can make this design yourself.

Such a device will not clutter up the space, it can be disassembled, and the cross beam and supports separately will not take up much space. The crane, created with your own hands for a garage, is capable of lifting and moving a load weighing no more than 800 kg. Its main advantage is that there is no need to purchase expensive materials.

Lift

As noted earlier, you can make a winch yourself. To do this, you will need a drum equipped with a cable; it must be fixed to a structure made of pipes with a square cross-section. A small sprocket with a chain drive is installed on the electric drive, and a large one is installed on the edge of the drum. To create a manual winch, a shaft equipped with a drum is supplemented with a handle.

To replace and repair most parts in a car, a platform or pit is required; if they are not available, you can use a lift. Despite the existing risks when working with such a device, its creation is justified by economic benefits and practical benefits.

An overhead trolley crane, assembled with a winch yourself, is the simplest version of a car lift, with the car being installed on platforms after being raised to the desired height. There is also a scissor design, which is characterized by the absence of the possibility of cable breakage, which the previous option cannot guarantee.

Scissor crane

The base and platform of the scissor lift are made of channels. A two-piece distributor, pump, bushings, hydraulic cylinder and I-beams are required for the shear.

A self-made UAZ crane is capable of lifting loads weighing more than 500 kg. It can also be removed upon completion of work. The main purpose of the device is to fix retractable supports. The base of the structure is made of a thick-walled square, secured to the frame with several bolts. The retractable pores stay on the bumper and raise the rear of the car.

Crane “Pioneer”

The mechanism makes it possible to simplify the implementation of many repair and construction works, as well as to ensure the implementation of actions that cannot be performed without additional lifting devices. The design is suitable for cargo of various volumes and sizes, and it can be installed on the floors of houses under construction, in pits and on the roof.

Among the main components it is worth noting the rotary and support frames, an electric winch, and a control panel. The device does not cause any difficulties in the process of use and the application of significant physical effort. Management is within the power of every person, even those without relevant experience.

Many owners of private houses and summer cottages are engaged in the creation of lifting structures. Their spread is due to the fact that each part of the mechanism, regardless of its complexity, can be performed in the desired manner and with the necessary functionality. In addition to moving heavy loads such as monolithic blocks, such cranes enable the delivery of light objects to great heights.

Unfortunately, the creation of hydraulic devices is, as a rule, not possible. But, despite this, the crane (with your own hands), the photo of which is presented below, is easy to operate and has sufficient lifting capacity.

Assembly of the Pioneer crane

Many parts can be found, surprisingly, in a landfill. For a homemade mechanism, the main components are a rectangular pipe and an I-beam. It is important that the latter fits easily into the pipe. To create a telescopic unit for an I-beam, sliding guides are made. It is worth noting that they must be lubricated with special compounds to reduce the degree of friction.

For the device to function, cables with a small diameter are also required. They can be purchased at a hardware store. A channel is often used to secure the rotating and supporting frames. It also ensures that the device can be firmly mounted on any surface. As a rule, it is the roof of a building under construction. In accordance with safety regulations, the manufacture of a rectangular platform as ballast is required, and it will reduce the likelihood of problems while the crane, assembled with your own hands, is in operation. An electric motor connected to a winch is used to start the lifting process.

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Do-it-yourself crane: drawings, photos of production

A homemade crane for dismantling an engine, a photo of making a dismountable crane, and a video of testing a homemade product.

One day the idea arose to build a crane for dismantling a car engine, since there is not much space in the garage, which means we need to make a collapsible one!

To build the crane I needed the following materials:

Profile pipe 80 x 80 mm (wall 3 mm) - 7 meters.
Pipe 89 mm - two pieces 0.7 meters long.
Pipe 76 mm - two pieces 0.9 meters long.
Jack - 5 t (Soviet production).
Metal plates 8 mm thick - 4 pcs.
Hook from towing strap.
Wheels 2 straight, 2 swivel + 2 swivel with brake.
Studs M 14 - 1000 mm.

Crane drawings.

Vertical stand.

Jack installation.

Lifting mechanism.

Tested my crane. I suspended a moped of 120 kg, then decided to climb onto the moped myself with another +120 kg - and again it seemed too little! But it is enough to dismantle the engine. I tried and lifted the Gazelle and took a video of the crane in action.

Hook lifting height:

From the ground with a short boom, the lower point is 90 cm, the upper 170 cm.

With a long boom - the bottom point is 80 cm, the top is 180 cm.

Long boom and unscrewed jack rod - bottom 140 cm and top 225 cm.

(2 ratings, average: 5.00 out of 5) Loading...

sam-stroitel.com

Crane made from paste material - Community “DRIVE2 At The Dacha” on DRIVE2

Why do you need a mini crane at your dacha? >

Well, now let's begin. Old donor hub from 412 Moskvich. The base is continued with reinforcement welded into the headboard. Spacers, reinforcements - everything is as it should be.

A kind of parody of a counterbalance. Then we'll strengthen it. I also made a homemade reel here to adjust the tilt of the boom.

Electric winch 0.5t

Just a fitting.

The boom does not yet have tilt adjustment. I just inserted it into a hole in the pipe. Well, of course I tried it. Hanged on her. My weight can bear it.

Oh, it seems Winter is back =))

So far it’s crooked. Then I’ll level it out, but that’ll be for the next race.

After the boom fell several times, due to the fact that the pipe blocking the rotation of the homemade cable reel broke, I bought another winch. By 0.5t to adjust the slope of the pipe. With a stopper, which is important.

Well, the final look

By the way, I welded a handle to the barrel at the level of the center of gravity. Now you can turn it over without any effort

Well now a little video of the work

Now the task was to drag the 150-kilogram structure 40 meters to the well. No problem - an electric winch, a corner, an ax and 2 rods did the job.

Installed. It's already 8 pm. I'll have to try it out.

Everything is great. The barrel was lifted easily. You just need to increase the mass of the counterweight.

Bye everyone. Please comment and suggest improvements. Don't kick too hard, it's a little crooked. The main thing is functionality.

www.drive2.ru

DIY crane | Secrets and nuances

Hello dear homemade people.

Do you really need a crane? So let's do it. Small-sized, with a boom that rotates and lifts, with a carrying capacity of two bags of cement, or 30 pieces of brick, or 3 large buckets of concrete.

I made one for myself, and now I can’t imagine how my wife and I could have built a two-story cottage with an area of 200 m2 if this crane had not existed.

Here are the drawings, and below is a detailed description of the process.

Just a tiny digression first: if anyone is looking for a simple lift for beams or logs, then take a look here.

Materials for the crane were mainly found in scrap metal. We only had to buy bearings, a winch, and order parts for the turning mechanism from a turner.

And I also had to pay a welder, since I myself cannot do welding work, due to some vision problems.

In general, this crane cost 5,000 rubles, which cannot be compared with the amount of work that I managed to complete with its help, because the “cheapest” helper in our region costs 800 rubles per day.

I’ll immediately make a reservation that during operation, my faucet revealed some shortcomings, which I will point out and advise on how to correct them. So your faucet will be a little different from mine.

Let's start with the rotating mechanism

It consists of six parts that need to be ordered by a turner, and two bearings.

As you can see, there are no dimensions in the drawing. The fact is that you don’t have to follow the exact size, like mine. After all, we make the faucet from available material, and I cannot know what size channel or I-beam, or what kind of pipe you will have at hand.

A little more or a little less doesn’t matter in my design. And you will understand this from further instructions. And having generally estimated what materials and parts you have, determine what dimensions to take for the manufacture of the rotating mechanism.

The mechanism has two bearings. At the top, between the housing and the base, there is a support bearing. Below, again between the housing and the base, there is a simple radial bearing.

Or rather, the housing should be mounted on the bearing, and the base should fit into it. Thus, both of these parts are connected. For more reliable fixation of the radial bearing, a nut is screwed onto the housing from below. The thickness of the threaded and retaining parts of the nut is at your discretion, but not less than 3 mm.

Then this unit is attached to the platform with a bolt (I have an M 26), which attracts the base to the platform. Thus, it turns out that the platform and base are a stationary part of the mechanism, and the body with the nut is rotating.

Now a little about what practice has shown. Towards the end of the season, the radial bearing weakened a little, and a barely noticeable play formed in the turning mechanism.

But with a boom length of 5 meters, this play became noticeably noticeable, so I recommend installing a hub bearing, 36 mm wide, instead of a radial bearing.

Here in Kazan, support and wheel bearings can be bought for 500 rubles both. And to tighten the bolt securing the base to the platform, you will need a spanner with an extension, and always two washers - a flat one and a lock washer.

Our next node will be the rack.

To make it you will need a piece of pipe (I have d140) and four pieces of channel. You need to estimate the height of the stand so that when finished it will be just right for you. Even two centimeters lower. Then it will be convenient to turn the winch when operating the crane.

Since God is unlikely to send you a piece of pipe with an evenly cut end, you will have to cut one end yourself. To do this, we take a car clamp, or make a clamp from a strip of tin, and tighten it on the pipe.

When tightened, the clamp will try to position itself on the pipe as evenly as possible, and if you help it a little (by eye), you will get a fairly even line around the circumference of the pipe, which you just have to draw, then remove the clamp, and cut the pipe along this line using a grinder .

Then, the rotating mechanism platform is welded to this flat end of the pipe. Now it’s clear why I didn’t give the dimensions in the drawing? You still have to order the rotating mechanism. And you can find a tuba. This means the diameter of the platform can be ordered according to the diameter of the pipe.

Now the legs. They need to be welded so that the stand does not collapse. How to do it? Firstly, they need to be cut to the same length.

Then hang the pipe with the welded platform, passing the rope through the hole in the center of the platform, and place your legs diagonally towards the pipe, so that in the end, the pipe remains hanging evenly, and your legs rest against it on all four sides.

As soon as the balance is found, you need to draw by eye the corners of the channels that abut the pipe, and trim them with a grinder as shown in the photo.

After trimming the corners, lean your legs against the pipe again, catch your balance, check with a rack and tape so that they form an even cross, and secure them with welding. After tacking, check the cross again, and you can weld.

All that remains is to make the support cross itself. It can be made from any rigid profile. At first there was an idea to put it on wheels made of bearings, but time was running out, and it didn’t come to the wheels, but actually it would have been nice. The unit turned out to be quite heavy, and it was difficult to move it.

The length of the arms of the cross is 1.7 meters, although as operation has shown, this cross does not play a particularly large role in the stability of the crane. The main stability is provided by balance, which we will talk about later.

The cross is not welded to the legs, but is attached with M 10 bolts and nuts. This was done for ease of possible transportation. The legs were reinforced in anticipation of installing wheels, but they never got around to it, although the idea of installing them is still there.

The stand with the rotating mechanism is ready, now let's move on to the crane platform, on which the counterweight, winches, and boom will be installed. I found a one and a half meter I-beam, 180 mm wide, for the platform. But I think you can use a channel and even a 150 x 200 beam under it.

At first I even wanted to use timber, but since I found an I-beam, I chose it. The platform is attached to the rotary mechanism body with four bolts and M 10 nuts.

If you use timber instead of an I-beam, then you will need to make additional platforms for it, above and below. You can “encircle” it with two pieces of channel and tighten everything with bolts.

But we’ll wait with the bolts for now, since the place where the platform is attached to the rotating mechanism will need to be selected based on balance. That is, the crane boom must be balanced by a block for counterweights and a winch. That is, the crane must stand confidently on the stand and not fall over.

Next will be the counterweight block.

I have it made from pieces of the same channel as the platform, but it can be made from anything, and in any way. The main thing is to have a container in which you can install loads, so that if necessary, you can increase the counterweight.

Now about the winch. My winch is installed with a capacity of 500 kg, with a brake. And once again, as practice has shown, such power was not enough to lift a load of about 100 kg.

That is, you can lift it, but you have to lean so hard on the handle that when lifting to a height of more than 5 meters, you get tired very quickly. For such a crane you need a winch of 1 - 1.5 tons.

There was also supposed to be a second winch for lifting the boom, but at that time, having visited a bunch of shops and markets, I could find only one winch with a brake, which you see in the photo. Therefore, instead of a second winch, a temporary tension cable was made, the length of which is still changed using clamps.

Unfortunately, there is nothing more permanent than a temporary structure. I still recommend that you install a winch instead, preferably a worm one. Its speed is low, and the brake, whether up or down, is dead. That's what an arrow needs.

All that remains is to make an arrow, which is what we will do. The boom consists of a mount with a shaft, a beam 150 x 50, and a tip with a pulley.

First - the mounting body. It is better to make it from a piece of channel wood.

Any round timber with a diameter of 20 to 30 mm will do for the shaft. For example, I cut off a piece of the rotor shaft of some old engine. Then we bend it in a vice, put two brackets around this shaft and fasten it to the channel, into which the beam will then be inserted.

We buy two simple bearings, so that they fit tightly onto the shaft, and cut out a seat in the mounting body.

Throughout the long history of its existence, man has more than once been faced with the task of lifting and moving heavy objects in space. For example, the familiar Egyptian pyramids consist of massive stone blocks that no one can lift. Therefore, one of the greatest achievements of mankind is the invention of the lifting crane, which made it possible to significantly simplify the task of moving heavy loads and speed up the construction of houses and other objects.

Machine structure

The operating principle of a crane is based on the physics of simple mechanisms. The simplest version of the crane is a stick placed on a fulcrum in such a way that the free ends have different lengths. Now if you hang a load on a short lever, it will take less effort to lift it. The most common design is one that uses, in addition to levers, a system of blocks.

A do-it-yourself crane is an indisputable assistant in small-scale construction. When constructing a private house, the use of bulky industrial cranes is not required. The height of the houses rarely exceeds 2 floors, and the weight of the lifted load is 200 kilograms.

Although there are many variations of lifting mechanisms, a classic crane consists of the following parts:

An arrow with a block attached to its end. Depending on its length, the height to which the load can be lifted is determined.
Platform. The boom and counterweight are attached to it. It is the main part of the crane and is subject to significant loads. Therefore, when manufacturing a platform, it is important to pay special attention to its strength.
Counterweight. Serves for crane stability. Defines the maximum load weight that the crane can lift. Stackable counterweight options are available to provide maximum stability.
A guy wire connecting the boom and the counterweight. Allows you to adjust the tilt of the boom and move the load in both vertical and horizontal planes.
Winch with cable. It is the lifting mechanism itself. The power of the winch determines how much weight the crane can lift.
Stand with a rotating mechanism. It is necessary to turn the crane to the sides.
The support cross, which is the base of the crane. Sets the stability of the entire structure. When manufacturing it, you should also pay attention to its strength.

terms of Use

To operate lifting mechanisms safely, certain rules must be followed.

These rules apply to any lifting device:

The load capacity must not be exceeded. A load that is too heavy may damage the device.
The base must be stable. Homemade lifting devices should be located on a previously prepared hard horizontal surface.
In bad weather conditions, you should also refrain from working with the crane. Strong winds will throw the crane off balance, and poor visibility may make it difficult to see people under the boom.
Before operating a crane or lifting device, it is necessary to conduct an external inspection to identify any malfunctions. If malfunctions are detected, operation of the crane is prohibited.
It should be remembered that when working with the lift, you should not make sudden movements. The load must be lifted smoothly. And most importantly, do not stand under any lifted load.

What characteristics should a garage lift have?

In garage conditions, two types of lifting mechanisms are used. The first type includes a lift that can lift the entire car, and the second type includes a goose-type lift that allows you to move loads around the garage.

Lifts of the first type are stationary devices and the main requirement for them is stability. The car weighs more than a ton and should not have the slightest chance of falling. In order to prevent any accidents, the garage lift must have a reliable stopper.

The goose type lifts are most often used in auto repair shops. It is quite simple to make it from a profile pipe or channel. First, the base is welded on which the rotating mechanism needs to be installed. It is best to make an arrow with an adjustable reach. This will make it possible to move weights in any direction.

How a simple block design works

The pulley system or pulley system has been known to mankind since ancient times. The classic system design consists of pulleys and cable. One pulley is called a block. Depending on the method of fastening, the pulley can be movable or fixed:

Fixed block. It is attached to the support and plays the role of changing the direction of movement of the rope. Does not provide any gain in strength.
Movable block. It is located on the side of the load and gives a gain in strength.

The principle of operation of a pulley block is similar to the principle of operation of a lever in the physics of simple mechanisms. The role of the lever in this case is played by the cable itself. In the case of a simple block of two pulleys, the movable pulley divides the rope into 2 parts and in order to lift the load the same distance, a rope twice as long will be required. The work of lifting the load is performed in the same volume. And the effort, due to the fact that the length of the rope has become twice as long, becomes half as much.

If there are more than 2 pulleys in the system, the gain in strength is approximately equal to the number of blocks. In the case of 3 blocks, the effort will be 3 times less, and 4 blocks will require only a quarter of the original effort.

Complex block system how to calculate power gain

If the system is designed in such a way that one simple pulley pulls another simple pulley, then this is already a complex system of blocks. To theoretically calculate the gain in strength, it is necessary to conditionally divide a complex chain hoist into simple ones and multiply the values of the gain from simple chain hoists.

For example, if the system consists of 4 blocks, and the first conditional simple pulley has a gain of 3. It pulls the second simple two-block pulley, also with a gain of 3. The total force that will need to be applied will be 9 times less. It is the 4-block complex chain hoist that is most often used by rescuers.

Methods for attaching a rope to a lifting mechanism

When creating complex pulley blocks, there are often situations when a cable of the required length for attaching the moving block is not at hand.

Methods for attaching a cable using general-purpose rigging:

Using a cord. Using a self-tightening knot, the cord is tied to the main cable. As the load is lifted, the grappling knot moves along the main rope, thereby allowing the height of the load to be increased.
Using clamps. In the case of using a steel cable, it is not possible to use a cord, so it is necessary to use special clamps.

We create a simple lifting mechanism with our own hands

Construction of a crane is not a quick task and is justified if it is required frequently or the volume of work is large enough. In cases where the load needs to be lifted urgently or this is a one-time operation, you can use improvised means.

To create a simple lifting device you will need a cord and two blocks. One block and the end of the rope are fixed motionless on the support. This will be the highest point to which the load can be lifted. We attach the second block to the load using slings or a hook. We first pull the rope along the block attached to the load, then pass it through the upper block. The gain in power will be 2 times. Using your own weight, you can easily lift a load weighing 100 kilograms to the required height.

If you add the ability to move the upper block along a guide, for example along a rail, you can get a do-it-yourself jib crane. It is useful in garage conditions for moving heavy machine parts.

It should be remembered that when working with the lift, you should not make sudden movements. The load must be lifted smoothly. And most importantly, do not stand under any lifted load. The same rule applies to a crane - standing under the arrow is prohibited.

Materials and tools

The most important thing when making a crane is to use high-quality tools and materials. This will guarantee that the structure will be strong and safe.

The cable should have minimal stretch; this will give a greater gain in strength when using a pulley system. The fittings used for tying must be taken only from metal. Plastic fittings cannot withstand heavy loads and break at the wrong time. To fasten individual parts of a homemade crane, you should choose high-strength hardware products.

If a winch is intended to be used, its lifting capacity should not be less than 500 kilograms. The best choice would be winches that can lift a load weighing 1 ton or more.

In conclusion, I would like to once again remind you of the need to observe safety precautions when working with lifting mechanisms. Also, regardless of whether the crane is purchased or made by yourself, you should inspect it before starting work.

Users of the portal share their experience in building homemade lifts from simple to complex structures.

When building a house from aerated concrete, timber, brick, etc. There is often a need to lift a load. For example, you need to “throw” blocks or wooden beams onto the second floor, lift bags of cement, or pour an armored belt. Doing this manually, even with the help of assistants, is not so easy - health is more expensive. Hiring a truck crane or manipulator for a small amount of work is expensive. The solution is to use a mini-crane, which, to reduce the cost of construction, is made by hand.

How to make a lift for laying aerated concrete.
What parts and tools are needed to build a mini crane.
How to reduce the costs of building a universal lift.

Lift for laying aerated concrete blocks

Abroad, during the construction of private houses, cranes and various lifts are often used. This way construction goes faster, which means the “box” is cheaper, because It is more profitable to use small-scale mechanization tools than to hire laborers. Our developer relies on himself and often builds a house “with one helmet.” Therefore, the urgent question is how not to physically overstrain yourself when laying a wall from aerated concrete blocks weighing 35-40 kg.

An interesting option is the unusual homemade “assistant” of the FORUMHOUSE user with the nickname Krestik. First, let's show what he took as a basis.

German mini crane with retractable central post

A special feature of the lift is the original folding “arm-boom”, with the help of which the crane, moving on wheels, can reach two opposite walls.

I am building a house myself and, in order to be able to lay aerated concrete blocks, I built a lift according to the above model. The crane was made completely collapsible, except for the base. I didn’t measure the maximum load on the hook, but it easily lifts me (weighing 95 kg).

Technical characteristics of the lift:

width – 2200 mm;
height – 4200 mm;
boom radius – 4200 mm;
load capacity of electric hoist – up to 800 kg;
total weight of the crane with ballast is approximately 650 kg;
lift weight without ballast – about 300 kg;
The maximum lifting height of the masonry block is 3500 mm.

The working height of lifting blocks is adjustable in two ranges. The first is 1750 mm. The second is 3.5 m, for which the structure is raised, sliding upward along the supporting “legs” using a hydraulic jack lined with spacers made of GB blocks.

To make the lift, the user needed:

swivel wheels;
profile pipes for the mast, “legs” and boom with a section of 12x12 cm, 12x6 cm, wall 6 mm;
pipe-jibs – 63x3 mm;
powerful gate hinges;
The boom rotating mechanism is made of ST45 steel and “205” bearings.

During operation, the design was modified. For example, the user laid the cable for the winch in a corrugated pipe and extended the cable for the control panel.

The design has a number of shortcomings that I would like to correct. For example, I’m thinking about making wireless control, replacing the gate hinges with bearings. Increase the number of “joints” in the boom at the same reach. Instead of a temporary counterweight - bags of sand concrete, pour concrete ballast.

Important nuance: in order for the lift to move around the construction site or, for example, over the concrete slab of the second floor, it is necessary to keep the workplace clean, because GB fragments and debris interfere with the relocation of the tap.

The design of the unusual lift attracted the interest of portal users.

Konstantin Y. Member of FORUMHOUSE

With such a lift, I think, as they do in Germany, you need to make masonry from blocks larger than standard ones. The length and height are 2-3 times greater than a regular GB. The crane has enough lifting capacity, and the laying speed will increase significantly.

According to Krestik, he heard that someone on the portal had already tried to order blocks of 1x0.4x0.6 m format from a gas silicate manufacturer. But it turned out that this was not profitable for the plant, because it is necessary to reconfigure the line for the production of GB, but for the sake of a small volume (for an ordinary private house) they will not do this.

Vegaroma FORUMHOUSE Member

I'm wondering: is the work on site easier when using a crane? What work can be done with it and what cannot?

There is no need to install scaffolding when laying GB walls. The lift can be assembled and disassembled. I poured the concrete lintels over the windows the old fashioned way, from buckets, because... The volume is small, and it’s easier to do it with one assistant.

Grand total: The mini-crane turned out to be successful, and with some modifications to its design, the lift can be put into small-scale production.

Mini crane made from scrap metal

Another version of a lifting mechanism made of metal “lying underfoot” was made by a portal participant with the nickname Petr_1.

According to Peter_1, the reason for the construction of the crane is that the house is getting higher, and the blocks and concrete are getting heavier. Therefore, after revising the “unnecessary things”, the user manufactured a completely dismountable crane with a lifting capacity of 200 kg.

I think my crane can lift more, but I didn’t overload it. The crane can be disassembled into parts weighing 30-60 kg and can be easily transported in a car trailer. I carry an arrow on the trunk. Statically tested a structure weighing 400 kg. I usually lift up to 150 kg. This is quite enough for my construction needs.

At one time, the crane, with a boom reach of 5 m, lifts 10 blocks weighing 15 kg each, or four 15-liter buckets of solution.

The design of the crane is a hodgepodge of what was at hand. Let's list the main details:

swivel unit - truck hub;

Hubs from cars, trucks, and farm equipment are often used to make the swivel assembly in homemade cranes. The main thing is to calculate the loads acting on it and the fasteners.

the boom is made of a pipe with a diameter of 75 mm;

outriggers and base - a rectangular pipe with a section of 8x5 and 8.5x5.5 cm;

the base of the tower is the “200th” channel;

worm gearboxes for boom and cargo winches.

three-phase electric motor with reverse, power 0.9 kW, converted to power from a 220 V network;

The crane turned out to be mobile, and by lowering the boom, it can be moved from place to place, rolling on wheels along compacted soil. Level adjustment is carried out using screw supports.

Metal, gearboxes and rollers were purchased at a recycled metal shop. Only the cable and bearings are new.

The weight of the crane without counterweight is about 250 kg. The cost of the structure, taking into account the purchase of consumables - cutting discs for angle grinders, electrodes for a welding inverter and paint, is 4 thousand rubles.

Crane, + time for turning, + selection of components and fitting of components, I completed it in 3 working days. In the future, after finishing the work, I will completely disassemble it.

Inexpensive mini lift

Practice shows that when building a private house, a real crane is not always needed. Often, a developer can get by with “little expense” and make a small lift based on an electrically driven hoist.

Gexx FORUMHOUSE Member

My design is simpler than the authors above, but it suits me quite well. I bought a hoist with a load capacity of 300 kg without a block and 600 kg with a block. Tests have shown that the device can lift a load weighing 250-270 kg, then the engine protection is triggered. During the construction season, I used it to lift about 40 pallets with building blocks, a 6-meter beam for the mauerlat, rafters, mortar for masonry and concrete for the reinforced belt.

The lift, again to save money, is made from used pipes, angles and channels.

All rust was cleaned off with a grinder, and the pipes were sprayed and then painted with paint with a rust reducer.

In order to be able to assemble the lift on the ceiling of the second floor, all components (where welding is not needed) are made collapsible - with bolted connections.

A hoist is installed on the stand using clamps.

In case of rain, a plastic bottle with the bottom cut off is placed on the control panel.

The telpher covers a canopy made of used roofing iron.

When lifting a pallet, two boards are placed under it, and the pallet is lowered onto them.

The entire structure is fixed to the floor with clamps.

Drawing with dimensions of the lift.

As a result, the user has a universal, self-manufacturing and budget “helper” that greatly simplifies the work of building a house.

These are topics that describe in detail how to make a lift for aerated concrete, and provide dozens of options for mini-cranes, from simple to the most complex designs.