Does apricot need a pollinator? Description of self-fertile apricot varieties. Video: planting and caring for apricots

Many gardeners, at least occasionally, have encountered a problem: the apricot blooms luxuriantly and this portends a generous harvest, but after flowering it suddenly turns out that there are few or no ovaries on the tree. Or the tree simply did not bloom in the spring - it is resting. How to explain the cause of this phenomenon and what actions to take in such a situation? Let's find answers to these questions and get a decent harvest of ripe sweet fruits.

What determines the long and abundant fruiting of apricots?

Apricots begin to bear fruit at the age of two to four years after being planted in a permanent place in the garden and bear fruit steadily for up to 25–30 years. The peak yield of a tree occurs at the age of five to six years, after which it gradually begins to decline. The duration of the productive period of apricot is influenced by many factors:

the correct location for planting the tree - the area should be well lit, with a groundwater level no higher than 1.8–2 m from the ground surface;
soil suitable for acidity and composition - recommended acidity level - pH 7.0–8.5, soils preferably light loam with good aeration and water permeability;
optimal watering regime - apricot does not like waterlogged soils, but during drought, vegetative processes are disrupted and the tree sheds its ovaries;
regularity of tree pruning - if pruning is incorrect or absent, the number of overgrowing shoots decreases and fruit branches die off;
good plant nutrition - organic and mineral fertilizers must be balanced in quantity and composition and applied during a certain growing season;
winter hardiness and frost resistance of the variety - plants can withstand winter frosts down to –28 º C, but flower buds freeze already when the air temperature drops to –1 ° C;
the tree’s susceptibility to fungal diseases or damage from insect pests - with proper agricultural technology and regular care, the plant has enough strength to withstand unfavorable conditions;
damp and rainy weather during flowering and a long dry period during the setting and ripening of fruits - if the necessary measures are taken in time, the influence of even these seemingly independent weather vagaries can be reduced.

A well-lit, sunny area, protected from winds and dampness, is most suitable for growing apricots.

Fruiting shoots of apricot

As the seedling develops, branches grow on it and perform various functions. In addition to vegetative shoots bearing the green mass of leaves, overgrown fruit-bearing shoots appear on skeletal and semi-skeletal branches during the growing season. Leaf and flower buds form on them. Fruit ovaries are formed from flower buds mainly on bouquet branches and spurs:

a bouquet branch (also called a spear) is a short (3–8 cm) spiny process, on the side surface of which flower buds are formed. These buds are collected in a kind of bouquet and located close to each other. The apical bud of a bouquet branch is leafy. These shoots appear when the apricot is two to three years old, live and bear fruit for three to four years, then gradually dry out and fall off;
spurs are short fruit shoots from 1 to 6 cm long. The location of the buds on the shoot is identical to bouquet branches. The peculiarity of spurs is that their flower buds are smaller and are not collected in bouquets, but grow singly.

Apricot also bears fruit, but to a lesser extent, on fruit twigs - annual growths more than 15 cm long, mainly with flower buds.

Video: fruiting apricot shoots

Apricot pollination is the key to successful fruiting

Most modern apricot varieties are self-fertile. However, in cold, prolonged spring conditions with frequent rains and strong winds, pollination of flowers may be weak and incomplete, which leads to a decrease in yield. In addition, the early flowering of apricots often does not coincide in time with the emergence of pollinating insects. In such a situation, sometimes you have to resort to hand pollination. For self-sterile varieties under the specified weather conditions, pollination may not occur at all due to the absence of pollinating insects (bumblebees, bees, etc.). For successful cross-pollination, experienced gardeners recommend having several apricots of different varieties in the garden, preferably self-fertile. As a rule, 3-4 trees are enough. Their number can be limited only by the size of the area, but the main condition is the simultaneity of their flowering. For high-quality pollination, the distance between trees should be in the range of 4 to 6 m. Having an apiary near the site will be especially useful for pollination. To attract bees and other beneficial insects, it is advisable to plant honey-bearing plants next to apricots - white and yellow sweet clover, phacelia (which are also good green manures), sainfoin, tartar, heather, fireweed.

Photo gallery: methods of pollinating apricot trees

During intensive apricot flowering, pollen is transferred from the male flower to the female flower by the wind or insects and pollination occurs
For reliable cross-pollination, several apricot trees of different varieties should grow in the garden, matching their flowering dates.
Effective pollination of apricots is facilitated by the presence of bees near the tree planting site.
In hand pollination, pollen is carefully transferred from flower to flower using a brush or cotton swab.

To attract pollinating insects (bumblebees, wild and domestic bees), I advise you to sprinkle the flowers and buds with a solution of honey (a tablespoon per 1 liter of water) at the beginning of flowering, and cover the crowns of small trees with fabric (sheets, burlap, spunbond) to protect against frost.

Apricot fruiting problems and their solutions

Among the most likely reasons for the absence or weak fruiting of apricots are:

variety unsuitable for local climatic conditions;
poorly chosen place for planting and growing;
weak or too much watering;
lack of nutrients in the soil;
damage to flower buds by pests or diseases;
freezing of flower buds during return frosts;
improper pruning of the tree or lack thereof.

Let's consider sequentially ways to eliminate these problems.

Released variety on suitable soil

Currently, apricot varieties have been developed for cultivation in both northern and southern regions. Therefore, the non-zoned apricot variety should be replaced with one more suitable for the climate.

The Tsarsky apricot variety begins to ripen only in August, so in regions where summers are short, it is better not to grow it

If the reason for the lack of fruiting is waterlogged soil, high acidity or close groundwater, it is necessary to improve the quality of the soil. To do this, carry out:

Rare watering

Apricot is a drought-resistant crop, so it tolerates excess moisture worse than its lack. With a long absence of rain in the summer, the vegetative processes of apricots are not disrupted and do not affect the setting and ripening of fruits, provided that the soil under the trees is regularly watered and thoroughly mulched. During the season, subject to moderate precipitation, four mandatory irrigations are carried out:

Timely feeding

With insufficient nutrition, the apricot weakens, poorly develops overgrowing branches and grows vegetative shoots (with leaves) instead of fruit shoots. In this way, the tree tries to replenish the supply of nutrients to the detriment of the future harvest. To solve this problem, you should regularly feed the plants with organic and mineral fertilizers, giving preference to nitrogen fertilizers in the spring, and gradually replacing them with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in the summer.

Pest treatment

If the lack of fruiting is caused by damage to flower buds by pests or the buds are damaged as a result of a fungal disease, measures should be taken to destroy insect pests or fungal spores. To do this, apricots are treated with appropriate fungicidal and insecticidal preparations. To prevent diseases, preventive spraying of trees in the spring before buds open and in the fall after leaf fall with 3% Bordeaux mixture is carried out.

To prevent diseases, apricots are sprayed with 3% Bordeaux mixture in the spring before buds open.

Apricot flowering delay

For apricot flower buds at the end of winter and spring, the greatest danger is posed by sudden thaws in February and returning frosts in May. Apricot has a very short period of natural dormancy; at the end of winter, the buds are already ready for the growing season. Only negative air temperatures inhibit this process and force the tree into a state of forced dormancy. But with the onset of a thaw and an increase in air temperature above 10 º C, the buds begin to grow. Frosts following a thaw cause the death of flower buds and subsequently the absence of fruits. During late May frosts, already opened apricot buds and flowers suffer. The solution to this problem is to maximize the period of forced rest and delay the swelling of the kidneys. For this:

in winter, collect as much snow as possible under the tree so that the roots remain in the cold for as long as possible;
Spray the apricot at the beginning of spring with diluted (to a state suitable for a spray bottle) white water-based paint to delay the heating of the branches.

Video: how to delay apricot flowering

The longer the dormant period of a variety, the better for its frost resistance. Varieties with a long dormant period tend to bloom later and have annual yields. The duration of the period of deep (endogenous) dormancy varies greatly among different apricot groups. Apricots of the Manchurian-Siberian group have a short dormant period. Genotypes with a long dormant period should be looked for among the varieties of the Central Asian group.
A. M. Golubev, agronomist, biochemist, Saratov

Apricot pruning

A characteristic feature of apricot is the formation of the earliest flower buds on overgrowing and annual shoots of the first wave of growth. It is these early buds that most often fall under spring frosts during the flowering of the tree.

Often already blooming apricots suffer from May frosts, especially in central Russia

Flower buds on branches of the second and third waves of growth bloom six to ten days later, when the frost has already passed. Thanks to this, they have higher winter hardiness and are not damaged by frost. This pattern was the basis for summer (green) pruning of apricots. It consists in the fact that at the end of May or at the beginning of June, when the first wave of shoot growth ends, the growths of this wave, 30–40 cm long, are shortened by half. Thanks to this pruning:

a well-lit crown is created;
crown ventilation improves;
next year's fruit buds are laid with a delay in flowering by 4–8 days compared to the first wave.

Thus, by pruning trees in summer, you can avoid damage to flower buds during return frosts in May or severe frosts in winter, i.e., increase the winter hardiness of apricots and preserve the future harvest.

Video: pruning apricot in summer (green pruning)

Apricot forms fruit ovaries on annual shoots, bouquet branches and spurs. Flower buds located on strong annual growths form groups. Single buds grow on weak shoots. In trees weakened by insufficient care and diseases, the formation of new shoots slows down and then stops. At the same time, the number of overgrowing branches with flower buds decreases. At the age of 6–8 years, spurs and bouquet branches die off on the branches. These processes lead to a decrease in yield, and subsequently to its complete absence. To restore shoot formation, pruning is used. Depending on the age of the tree, it is divided into formative, regulating, rejuvenating and sanitary (restorative).

Formative pruning is the first for young seedlings and is aimed at forming the crown and overgrowing shoots during their strong growth. Pruning is carried out on seedlings from one to two or three years of age, i.e. before fruiting begins.
Regulatory pruning is used in trees from 2–3 years old to slow down the growth of shoots and accelerate the period of entry into the fruiting period.
Rejuvenating pruning is necessary for aging trees when branch growth weakens or stops completely. This pruning allows you to stimulate the growth of new shoots and improve the growing season, i.e. the growth of leaves and flower buds.
Restorative pruning is used when trees are damaged by severe frosts, diseases or other unfavorable conditions. It helps plants regain their ability to grow, develop and bear fruit sustainably.

For a good annual harvest, apricot pruning is carried out regularly.

At each stage of tree pruning, a specific task is solved: from crown formation to rejuvenation and restoration of productive function.

Video: pruning to preserve the harvest (crown formation)

Planting several trees nearby

For regular, sustainable fruiting of apricot, even a self-fertile variety, several trees of different varieties should be planted nearby, matching the timing of flowering and fruiting.

Planting several apricots with close flowering dates will help improve the fruiting of each

Balance of roots and crown

When growing apricots, the principle of balance between the root system and the above-ground part of the tree must be observed. Excessive development of the root system leads to the withdrawal of nutrients from the crown to the roots and weakens the tree. Conversely, too much vegetative mass causes a weakening of the productive function of the apricot. If the tree is overloaded with a large number of ovaries, it is advisable to normalize the fruit load (removal of excess fruit set) when the natural fall of the excess ovary after flowering is completed.

Another important factor in poor fruiting is unfavorable conditions during the formation of flower buds, which begins after the shoots grow (late June - first half of July). The differentiation of growth and flower buds ends in the second half of October with the formation of ovule primordia - the basis of the future harvest.

My name is Valeria, I am an electrical engineer by profession. But I really like writing articles on various topics that interest me: nature, pets, travel, cooking. Over time it turned into a hobby.

Plant pollination is a stage of reproduction, which involves the transfer of pollen from the anther to the stigma or ovule. In this case, the male organs are the stamens, and the female organs are represented by the pistil and the ovule.

Rules and features of pollination

There are two main types of pollination known, which include self-pollination or cross-pollination. The process of cross-pollination involves the presence of a factor, depending on the type of which several types of pollination differ. In the conditions of modern practical gardening, self-fertile and self-sterile varieties are distinguished. In the first case, the ovaries are formed as a result of pollination with their own pollen. The second option involves pollination with pollen from a plant of a different variety.

A significant number of varieties of fruit plants can be classified as self-sterile, and in this case it is not difficult to understand whether a pollinator is needed. Such garden plantings may not bear fruit at all or produce a minimal yield. Apricot varieties generally fall into the category of self-fertile plants that pollinate on their own. But there are also self-sterile hybrid forms and varieties.

Natural and artificial pollination

Most common natural pollination, which is carried out through pollinating insects and other natural factors. Artificial pollination involves the transfer of pollen from the anthers of one plant to the stigma of other flowers in order to increase productivity or, if necessary, to develop new, most promising varieties.

Apricot trees belong in most cases to self-pollinating fruit plants. However, too early a flowering period suggests a lack of pollinating insects, so hand pollination is used to obtain a high yield. The highest percentage of self-fertile apricot varieties are found in the European group category. Self-sterile varieties that need to be pollinated are usually classified as varieties from the Central Asian and East Asian group of apricots.

In order to maximize the success of the pollination process, the presence of bees is necessary during the active flowering stage. However, apricots are good honey plants and produce a significant amount of beebread, which makes the fruit plantings very attractive to pollinating insects even in cloudy weather. A good result is obtained by placing about five to six bee families per hectare of apricot plantings.

Apricots in central Russia (video)

Hand pollination

Hand pollination or "mechanical pollination" is a special technique used in cases where natural or open pollination is not sufficient or is for some reason undesirable. Apricot and peach trees, as well as nectarines, require hand pollination.

The need for hand pollination of apricots may be caused by unfavorable weather conditions during the flowering period of the fruit crop, or by an insufficient number or complete absence of pollinating insects. For maximum efficiency, hand pollination is carried out at the beginning and middle of flowering, as well as almost at the end of this natural process. Pollination is carried out with a brush or toothbrush with soft bristles, with the help of which pollen is transferred from flower to flower.

The best self-fertile varieties

The self-fertility of apricot is a very useful property of the fruit crop and allows you to reduce labor costs for cultivation. Currently, domestic and foreign breeders have developed a significant number of self-fertile promising varieties that combine high yields, excellent taste and marketability, as well as unpretentiousness.

Variety name	Botanical description	Fruit characteristics	Varietal features
"Dessert"	Trees grow up to five meters and have high winter hardiness	Large in size, weighing up to 55−65 g, with thin yellow skin and delicate sour-sweet pulp	Average aging period
"Success"	Medium height, with a fairly strong crown	Round in shape, medium in size, weighing up to 23-25 g, beige-orange in color, with sweet, very pleasant-tasting pulp	Has excellent winter hardiness
"Reliable"	With a relatively sparse crown, winter-hardy plant, with frost-resistant flower buds	Large, weighing up to 45−55 g, elongated, oval, dark red in color, with sweet flesh	Medium early ripening
"Present"	Medium-sized plant with high winter hardiness	Small in size, weighing up to 18−20 g, yellow, with tasty pulp and a free stone	High frost resistance of flower buds
"Joy"	Restrained tree and crown growth	Large in size, weighing up to 40−42 g, round, orange with blush, with juicy pulp	Promising and early-fruiting variety
"Rattle"	Medium-sized plant with sufficient winter hardiness	Very large, weighing up to 60−62 g, round-oval in shape, greenish-yellow in color without blush, with pubescence and tasty pulp	The best variety for obtaining dried fruits
"Stepnyak"	Tall and very powerful plant with a strong crown	Above average size, weighing more than 30−35 g, round-oval, orange-yellow, with a blush and high taste	High yield and decent level of winter hardiness

Pollinator trees

In order to increase productivity as effectively as possible, when growing self-sterile varieties, pollinating varieties are planted on the site. It has been noted that self-fertile varieties are able to show the best results as a result of pollination with pollen from plants of other varieties. To correctly select a pollinator variety, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

planted pollinators must correspond to the cultivated varieties in terms of flowering and fruiting periods;
pollinating varieties must belong to the category of standard and promising assortments suitable for cultivation in specific soil and climatic conditions;
apricot pollinating varieties must have good pollination rates with the help of main varieties;
It is advisable to take into account the taste characteristics and commercial qualities of fruits from varieties used for joint planting in home gardening.

Pollination: how to attract bees (video)

The border where apricot grows in the north passes through the Voronezh region. Until recently, summer residents of the middle zone only had to envy their southern colleagues. Today, gardeners have productive winter-hardy varieties at their disposal, including the Success apricot, which survives, blooms and bears fruit even in the conditions of the Moscow region.

Gardeners consider apricot to be a capricious plant that needs constant attention and competent agricultural technology. In fact, heat-loving trees easily take root and produce good harvests if the variety is chosen correctly.

Characteristics of the apricot variety Success

Breeding work on obtaining hardy, frost-resistant varieties in our country began as early as I.V. Michurin. The varieties he bred can still be found today in gardens throughout Russia. They, for example, the Tovarishch and Michurinsky best varieties, are used for further selection. The seedlings obtained with their help and the European variety Luise gave summer residents the apricot variety Success, valued for the quality of the fruit and resistance to frost and disease.

Apricots enter the garden as two- or three-year-old seedlings. By the age of 5–6 years they enter the time of fruiting. By the age of 10 years, the yield reaches optimal levels for the variety.

Apricot Success forms a tree of medium height, up to three meters, with a rounded pyramidal shape. The variety is characterized by weak branching. Strong skeletal branches and young annual shoots are covered with smooth brown bark with a red tint. The branches are covered with smooth, ovate foliage with pointed tips, jagged edges and short, colored petioles.

Trees of this variety are among the first to bear fruit, and flowering also begins quite early. Pinkish-white, medium-sized corollas are formed on short bouquet branches. According to the description of the apricot variety Success, ripening in the middle zone occurs in the last days of August or early September. In the Central Black Earth Region, you can taste sweet apricots weeks earlier.

Fruiting and taste of apricots Success

With proper care and the right planting site, at the age of 5 - 6 years, you can get up to 35 kg of fruit from a strong tree. In addition to yield and endurance, the excellent quality of apricots deserves attention.

The fruits of the variety, sitting tightly on the branches, are not among the largest. On average, their weight does not exceed 20–25 grams. Apricots have success, as in the photo:

round shape;
thin skin with an amber-yellow base color;
light reddish-pink blush;
dense, low-fiber pulp, rich in juice.

According to experts, the taste of the fruits of this variety deserves a rating of 4–4.5 points. This is a good indicator for a crop that grows not in the south of the country, but in its center, for example, in the Non-Black Earth Region.

At the same time, Success apricots are equally good as a fresh dessert and as a raw material for all kinds of preparations. Rich in carotene, organic acids, sugars and pectins, the fruits in the hands of the housewife will turn into excellent jam, compote, marshmallows, etc.

Planting apricot Success and care of fruit trees

The main value of the variety is its high resistance to frost, adaptability to the short and not too warm summer of the middle zone and high yield for the region. As follows from the description of the Success apricot variety, plants under the cover of snow and natural barriers can survive at temperatures up to 35 °C without serious losses.

At especially low temperatures, the oral and flower buds are the first to be damaged. But thanks to good annual growth, the trees restore their productivity in a short time.

If the tree is in danger, it is from thaws and subsequent frosts, as well as from sunburn in winter. Therefore, in the autumn, the trunk is carefully covered with air-permeable material, and closer to spring, the snow crust is broken next to the tree and loose snow is thrown onto the trunk.

To simplify the care carried out after planting apricot success, choose a well-lit place for the garden with reliable protection from cold winds and blowing snow cover. Fruit crops need light, air- and moisture-permeable soil with a slightly alkaline or neutral reaction.

If the soil on the site is acidic, an annual application of dolomite flour or other additive will be required to neutralize the increased acid content.

While the fruit plantings are small, they need special protection from pests, among which the greatest damage is caused by aphids and leaf rollers. When the time for fruiting comes, an attack by moths is possible.

This and other threats can be eliminated by using chemical control agents, as well as strictly following the rules of agricultural technology for stone fruit crops. The gardener needs:

maintain the cleanliness of tree trunk circles;
carefully cut out the root shoots;
cut out dead or damaged branches, as well as shoots that make the crown too thick;
Water and feed the garden regularly to prevent it from weakening.

If the winter hardiness of apricot success is beyond doubt, then to obtain a harvest from this crop you need to know that the variety is practically self-sterile. To see scatterings of sweet amber fruits on the trees, you need pollinators planted next to the Success apricot. Their choice depends on the flowering time of the plantings and the adaptability of the plants to growing conditions. In the middle zone, the Northern Triumph variety can be used as pollinators,

Self-fertile apricot varieties are often chosen for growing in small garden plots where it is not possible to plant many trees. They bear fruit every year, regardless of whether there are pollinators nearby, since they pollinate themselves. Below we will list the best self-fertile apricot varieties with descriptions and photos for growing in small plots and large orchards.

The most productive self-fertile apricot varieties

Self-fertile apricot varieties do not produce the same yield as ordinary, non-self-fertile varieties, however, there are a number of varieties of this category that are distinguished by good fruiting every year.

"Pineapple" apricot produces up to 145 kg of fruit annually from one tree! Apricots ripen around mid-summer. The fruits of the “Pineapple” variety weigh up to 50 g, the shape is uneven - round, but lumpy. The seed is small, yellow apricot color with a red side. The pulp is fibrous, light yellow, with a high content of juice and sugar. It is most often consumed fresh, as canned food may lose its taste. The variety is prone to shedding, frost resistance is only up to -25 degrees.
"Red-cheeked" ripens around mid-July. The first fruits are born 3-4 years after planting. The yield, when compared with other self-fertile varieties, is high - up to 100 kg of apricot is removed from the tree every year. Fruits up to 50 g, oval in shape, orange in color with crimson “cheeks”. The peel is dense, but not thick, velvety. The stone is easily separated from the pulp, is small in size, and occupies only 6.2% of the total weight of the fruit. The taste is sweet, rich, the acid is almost inaudible. Contains up to 9.8% sugars and 1.36% acid. Main disadvantages: does not tolerate high humidity and requires constant care.
"Melitopol early" ripens around mid-summer. Productivity can reach 55 c/ha for industrial cultivation or 100 kg/tree. Grows up to 5-6 meters in height, needs regular pruning and care. Fruits up to 40 g, oval, yellow-orange, with a small number of subcutaneous points. The taste is sweet, slightly tart, the flesh is soft, orange in color. The peel is very thin and velvety. The use of the fruits is universal, however, the fruits cannot be transported - they are very soft after ripening.

Which self-fertile varieties are frost-resistant?

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In the middle and northern regions, where the climate, and especially winters, are unpredictable, it is necessary to plant frost-resistant self-fertile apricot varieties.

They are famous for their good winter hardiness.

Unpretentious self-fertile apricot varieties

Unpretentious self-fertile apricot varieties are very easy to grow. They require virtually no care and grow quickly. The main thing is just to water them sometimes, feed them at least once a year and harvest them on time.

« Dessert“Even young, inexperienced gardeners grow apricots. It grows quickly and requires almost no care. The tree is of medium size, the crown is sparse, round in shape. Fruits up to 40 grams, round, slightly flattened on both sides. The peel is heavily pubescent and yellow. The pulp is light orange, not very dense, juicy, sweet, but with sourness. Has a strong aroma.
« Snegirek» has high frost resistance. The tree grows only up to 1.5 meters, which makes caring for it much easier. The yield per tree is within 10 kg, but it can be more, depending on the growing region. In southern cities, the yield can reach up to 20 kg per season. Ripening occurs around mid-August. The fruits are dense, beautiful, and easy to transport. Weight is only 15-20 g, color is cream with burgundy blush.
« Lel» self-fertile apricot variety of early ripening. The trees grow up to 3 meters in height, the crown is rounded. The first apricots are produced 3-4 years after planting. Up to 20 kg of fruits are removed from the tree annually, but if additional pollinators are planted nearby, it will increase 2-3 times. Apricots are orange, weighing around 20 g. The pulp is sweet, almost without acid after full ripening. The stone comes away from the pulp well. Ripening occurs around the end of July. Tolerates frosts down to -30 degrees.

The best partially self-fertile apricot varieties

In addition to self-fertile apricot varieties, there are also partially self-fertile varieties that can bear fruit without pollinators, but only in small quantities. They produce large harvests only if there is a suitable pollinator nearby. Such varieties are most often used for planting if the fruits are used for personal consumption and not for sale.

« Polesie large-fruited apricot“Apricot yields up to 115 kg per year from each tree in the presence of additional pollinators (varieties “Amur”, “Khabarovsky”), otherwise the yield is reduced by 2 times. The variety is mid-season, the first fruits are observed in 3-4 years. The fruits are sweet and sour, weighing up to 55 g, oval in shape, orange in color with a scarlet blush. The stone is easy to separate from the pulp, which is why the variety is popular in processing.
« Veteran of Sevastopol" is a late, partially self-fertile apricot variety that ripens around mid-August. Created at the Scientific Research Institute of Horticulture of Ukraine. Early fruiting, fruits begin to ripen at 3-4 years of age. The tree is not very tall, the crown is compact. Resistance to winter and spring frosts is high. Fruits weighing up to 65 g, there are also record holders weighing 85 g, but this is rare. The shape is oval, compressed from the sides. The color of the peel is golden, with a blush. The taste is sweet, with sourness, which only emphasizes the delicate taste.
« Lyutezhsky" or " Kyiv red-cheeked"belongs to the mid-early group of apricots. It bears fruit from 3-4 years, is partially self-fertile; for higher yields it is necessary to sow pollinators nearby. The winter hardiness of the tree and its flower buds is excellent. Moderately resistant to diseases. Apricots up to 50 g, round-oval, slightly flattened on the sides. The peel is yellow-orange, with a blush on one or both sides. The pulp is light yellow, the taste is delicate and sweet. The bone is easily separated from the pulp.
« Siren"- a variety bred by Romanian breeders. Popular and in demand in Romania and beyond. The fruits are oval, elongated, round in shape, weighing between 50-60 g. The peel is orange with red “cheeks”. The first harvest can be harvested in the 4th year.

Pollination

Peach. This is the only crop in the garden that does not have problems with pollination. She is self-fertile. And the flowers are pollinated in almost any weather, with the exception of cases when they are killed by spring frost. Sterile varieties are extremely rare. But to avoid problems with harvests, it is advisable to know them: John Hale, Zargaldak VIRA, Zarel, Zafrani, Zorka, Institutskiy, Kibrayskiy, Laureate, L.P. Lupan, Lunny, Raspberry, Navoi, Late Crawford, Sesquihanna, Solnechny, Tashel , Success, Sustainable, Khidistavi late, Chinaz Kling, Elizar, Jubilee.

Apricot. All his varieties are divided into groups. Thus, European varieties are mostly self-fertile (80%): Bergeron, Bulbonsky, Doina, Candidate, Red-cheeked Nikitsky, Red-cheeked sugar, Red-cheeked late, Khersonsky, Royal, Royal Orange, Golden Summer, Rossoshansky canning 23, Violet, Tilton, Newcastle, Komsomolets, Effect, Winner, Tilyun, Honey-fragrant, Dawn of the East, Golden-pink, Zardalyu, Yellow lumpy, Kostyuzhensky, Louise Boucher, Northern Triumph, Moldavian large-fruited, Migrant, Late Khramova, Red-cheeked seedling 3/9, Khersonsky 26, Gvardeysky early, Uryuk guards.

Central Asian (varieties Khurmai, Mirsangeli, Isfarak, Sukhoni, Babai, Kondak, Makhtobi, Arzami, Ahrori, Badami, Lyuchak) and Iranian-Caucasian (Shalah, Spitak, Kaysi, Tabarza, Geogjanabad) are practically self-sterile. They require replanting with pollinating varieties.

Siberian and Far Eastern apricots are divided 50 to 50%. It is also better for them to plant a pollinator of a different variety.

The power of growth

Peach. Contrary to popular belief, peaches are divided almost in half into vigorous and weak-growing. Usually cherry plum or peach seedlings are used as a rootstock for peach. If winters allow, then on such a foundation peaches grow to gigantic sizes. Therefore, to avoid being overgrown, play it safe by choosing varieties of medium vigor: Anton Chekhov, Blake, Greensboro, Kislovodsky, Competitor, Red-cheeked, May Flower (Mayflower), Mami Ross, Olympian, Fluffy Early, Redhaven, Slivensky Compote, Fairhaven, Yubileiny .

Apricots. All are vigorous. There are, of course, varieties with moderate growth, but there are very few of them, and the trees still grow taller than peaches.

Precociousness

Peaches begin to bear fruit early - in the second to fourth year. And they are heavily overloaded with the harvest. Because of this, trees often freeze in winter. Therefore, of all crops, peaches are the most demanding for annual careful pruning, which normalizes yields. Moreover, without pruning, peaches will not survive at all.

Apricot is also an early ripening and light-loving crop; it begins to bear fruit in the third or fourth year. But due to their powerful growth, trees left without proper pruning exhaust themselves with early abundant harvests, begin to suffer from fruiting periodicity and are severely affected by diseases. Like the peach, the apricot completely lacks self-regulating yield.

Disease resistance

Until recently, apricots gave a huge head start to peaches in this regard. But in recent years they began to suffer greatly from moniliosis. By the way, this disease also affects peaches, but it is much weaker.

So peaches are now superior to apricots when it comes to sustainability. Mainly because their crowns are easier to treat with fungicides. And powdery mildew and curl are not as aggressive as moniliosis.

Frost resistance

Peaches are grown even in Siberia. Apricots have also come a long way. True, with them everything is much more complicated. In some places, apricots refuse to grow in the South, but the same varieties feel great in the middle zone. And it happens the other way around.

To avoid getting into trouble, plant only varieties that are zoned in your area.

Peach is less frost-resistant and can die in a frosty winter due to the level of snow. But it's easier with him. Usually, each variety’s characteristics indicate to what temperature it is not afraid of frost.