Growing tomatoes on two roots. Growing tomato seedlings on two roots Grafting tomatoes on two roots

On forums dedicated to growing tomatoes, there are often disputes about how to properly plant bushes in the beds. Some gardeners and breeders advise planting tomatoes 2 per hole. What does this method of planting seedlings actually give?

Tomatoes are a popular garden crop

It is difficult to imagine a home garden without tomatoes - this is one of the most common garden crops. There are hundreds of different types of tomatoes. Each gardener chooses for himself which varieties to plant in his garden. Modern varieties differ in the appearance of the bushes, their size, the timing of fruit ripening.

Tomato bushes can be:

In addition, tomatoes can be self-pollinating and require pollination by insects. Tomatoes also differ in the type of formation of inflorescences.

The fruits of plants may differ in appearance and quality:

taste qualities;
size;
color;
form;
pulp density;
the number of seeds.

The composition of this vegetable includes a large amount of vitamins and substances useful for the human body. The fruits are eaten raw and used to prepare various dishes. Various preparations for the winter are made from tomatoes.

Tomatoes are cultivated in all regions of the country, in the south and in the middle lane they are grown in open beds, and in the northern regions, tomatoes bear fruit well in closed heated greenhouses.

Home greenhouses are usually small in size, and the fruiting time of one tomato hybrid is limited. For this reason, vegetable growers seek to increase the amount of product obtained from one square meter of usable area by planting two different varieties of this crop in one hole.

How to plant tomatoes 2 per hole

As a standard, it is customary to plant seedlings one plant per hole. It is believed that with this planting technique, tomato bushes receive the maximum amount of nutrients. Indeed, this is true when it comes to a garden with ideal conditions for cultivated plants. In reality, tomatoes are attacked by harmful insects throughout the season, and in the southern regions they burn out under the scorching sun.

In particularly hot and arid regions, it has long been customary to plant tomatoes 2 in one hole. This method of planting seedlings allows plants to protect each other from the rays of the scorching sun.

How to prepare a hole

Preparing a site for planting two tomatoes in one hole is no different from the usual. A bed for tomatoes is made where they grew a year before:

parsley;
dill;
carrot;

In autumn, ash and organic fertilizers are added to the soil. After that, the site is carefully dug up. It is impossible for fertilizers to remain on the surface, they must be covered with a layer of earth.

Holes for tomato seedlings are placed in one line or in a checkerboard pattern. The holes are given an oval shape, one from the other is 40-50 cm apart.

In arid regions, a deep long bed in the form of a trench is prepared for tomatoes. Its depth varies from 15 to 25 cm, and its width - from 30 to 40 cm.

It is recommended to pour a few liters of boiling water into the hole shortly before planting the seedlings. Such a measure will destroy the larvae of harmful insects. Then mineral fertilizers are laid at the bottom of the hole. They are sprinkled with a thin layer of soil. After that, tomatoes are planted 2 per hole.

Important! It is recommended to prepare holes for seedlings a few days before planting plants in the garden. Prepared holes should be filled with water. The next day, you need to look carefully, passages and burrows of underground pests may appear in moist soil. In each hole you need to put poison for insects. Only after that you can start planting tomatoes.

The scheme of planting tomato bushes

Planting tomatoes two roots per hole involves placing seedlings in pairs in one recess (hole). Plants are located on opposite sides of the hole (groove), opposite each other or slightly obliquely. To grow both bushes healthy, you need to have at least 20 cm between them. You can plant plants in a checkerboard pattern.

Seedlings are placed sideways in the holes, directing the top to the north, and the root towards the south. Then the root part is sprinkled with earth. If the seedlings have a thin long stem, they should be buried 5-10 cm into the ground. Some vegetable growers prefer to lay out sprouts, directing the roots towards each other. For a dual type of planting, you will have to harvest twice as many seedlings.

Landing pattern

In hot climates, a weaker sprout is planted next to a strong shoot. It grows weaker and develops worse than its neighbor, but at the same time it creates the right amount of shade that protects the crop from sintering in the sun. Excess water and fertilizers are not spent on it, since nutrients are constantly introduced into the hole and watering is carried out. A weak plant is unlikely to give a good harvest, but it will contribute to better pollination and protect the neighbor from the heat.

In greenhouses, where there is very little free space, this method of growing tomatoes allows you to get more yield per 1 sq. meters of usable area. In greenhouse conditions, you can grow two different varieties of tomatoes by planting them in one hole. You can plant tall tomato bushes in the garden, and low varieties with other fruiting periods at their feet. To do this, you need to make holes strictly in a line, and place high tomatoes on the back wall of the holes, and low ones on the opposite side right in front of them.

Tomatoes are planted 2 per hole, most often with a seedling method of growing. With a seedless method of growing, more than two seeds are placed in the wells.

Important! Sowing tomatoes directly on the garden bed, you need to take into account the temperature of the soil.

In order for the tomatoes sown in the greenhouse to give good seedlings, three or four seeds are thrown into one hole. After the leaves appear on the seedlings, only strong shoots are left. Weak plants are removed. Surplus plants can be later transplanted to another place.

Planting tomatoes two roots per hole

In addition to the listed planting methods, there is a technique that involves planting tomatoes on two roots. The two sprouts are wrapped together in plastic wrap at the bottom of the stems. In this form, they are placed in the hole. Most often this technique is used for weak seedlings.

Planting two roots

Some vegetable growers specially grow two shoots in one cup, while the seeds are sown side by side so that later it would be convenient to tie the stems together.

You can create a single organism from two shoots by transplanting them into one container when picking. In this case, the stems should be located at a distance of 0.5-1 cm from each other. After that, the shoots are allowed to get stronger as soon as the thickness of each stem reaches 4-5 mm, on the sides facing the neighboring plant, a small a piece of skin, from 1 to 1.5 cm long. Then shallow cuts are applied to the stems. It is important that on one sprout the splits are applied obliquely from top to bottom, and on the other from bottom to top.

In other words, one is created from two shoots, but with two root systems. It is believed that such a plant tolerates better:

temperature fluctuations;
short drought;
windy days.

Seedlings on two roots are best grown in peat cubes or glasses. When transplanted into open ground, the root system will remain unaffected.

Paired planting of tall tomatoes

If there are no difficulties with low-growing varieties of tomatoes, then the possibility of planting tall tomatoes 2 plants together causes a lot of controversial and conflicting opinions.

Tall tomatoes are grown only on supports, these can be pegs or trellises. If two tall plants are planted in one hole, then for both you need to create a support or tie the stems to a single peg standing between them. Caring for such tomatoes is no more difficult than with a single arrangement of bushes. Beds with paired bushes are watered and fed in the same way, weeds are removed from them and the soil is loosened.

Difficulties begin to arise only at the stage of formation of bushes. It is much easier to cope with plants growing in open beds, in greenhouses the situation is more complicated.

Some gardeners advise leaving paired bushes with only one central stem. In fact, you can leave two main trunks for each plant. If only one central trunk is left, then the plant actively rushes up and occupies the entire height in the greenhouse.

Since fertilizers are regularly applied to each well, the fear that there will not be enough nutrients for a couple of nearby bushes is completely unfounded.

For what purpose are tomatoes planted 2 bushes per hole

Paired placement of planting material in the garden allows you to get more yield from one meter of soil. In addition, if, when planting tomatoes, two seedlings per hole, seedlings are taken with different fruit ripening periods, then the harvest can be obtained much longer.

For hot and dry regions, planting tomatoes 2 per hole not only saves space and increases yield, but also keeps tomato bushes from drying out under the scorching sun. Indeed, standing nearby tomatoes create a saving shadow. In the southern regions, tomato bushes are planted in deep beds. At the same time, pairs of bushes are located slightly obliquely on opposite sides of the groove. This method of planting makes it easier to water the plants and provides access to them.

In the gardens of rural settlements, where neighboring plots are very close, the spread of harmful insects occurs very quickly. In the event that a pest suddenly appears on the site, with a paired arrangement of bushes, there is hope that at least one of the two sprouts will remain intact. Of course, if the owner of the site takes timely measures to combat insects, and the situation will not be left to chance.

Gardeners plant two bushes each, so that after a period of adaptation of seedlings and as a result of its partial death, a sufficient number of tomatoes remain in the beds.

Disadvantages of the technique of double planting tomatoes

Planting tomatoes two seedlings per hole is not suitable for all varieties. If you take two different varieties of this garden crop, then tall and low bushes will grow better. Too branched bushes are not at all suitable for this method of growing. It is impossible to grow complex hybrids in this way. In this case, they throw off the color.

Tomatoes planted 2 bushes per hole, quickly growing, create a very voluminous bush, which is difficult to care for. Therefore, tomato bushes growing in 2 rows must be formed in a timely manner, removing excess leaves and side branches.

When selecting suitable varieties for pair planting, preference is given to those that are less susceptible to infectious diseases, such as late blight. It is believed that growing at close range, plants are likely to become infected from each other. In fact, planting 2 tomatoes in one hole does not cause plant infection.

To protect the crop from pests and infections, it is necessary to carry out preventive spraying of tomato bushes in a timely manner with special means. In addition, it is not forbidden to use folk methods to protect the crop from diseases and insects, such as:

timely removal of weeds from the beds;
spraying the bushes with infusions of onions and garlic;
pest control with baits.

If a diseased plant appears in the garden, it must be uprooted and burned. All other bushes after this need to be treated with protective preparations.

It is necessary to start fighting infectious diseases not when adult plants are already infected, but in advance, even at the stage of growing seedlings. Otherwise, the crop will be ruined regardless of the scheme for planting tomatoes in the garden.

When planting tomatoes 2 pieces per hole, you must follow all the rules. And only then the harvest of tomatoes will be rich.

VALERY MEDVEDEV:

I’ll start by explaining why and to whom this technique can be useful.

Situation one.
You have a small garden with one greenhouse for 20-30 bushes and there is simply nowhere to expand, there is only one way out, try to increase the yield from one bush.

Situation two.
I would like to get a small amount of early harvest.

So growing seedlings on two roots will partially help solve these problems. The logic here is simple, by increasing the root system, we increase the nutrition of the bush, which means we accelerate the rate of development and productivity.

Now about how to do it.

Probably everyone noticed that tomatoes heal wounds very quickly. Stepchildren, I hope everything was deleted? Accordingly, they are also easily grafted.

It all starts with the fact that seedlings are grown in the usual way. But they dive already in containers with a double volume, two pieces at a distance of 5-6 cm from each other.
We are waiting for them to take root and their stems reach the thickness of a pencil, and at this moment we begin to graft.

Of the two plants, we choose the strongest, it will be our scion (which we will leave entirely), and the less strong will be the stock (from which we will remove the top).

Then in this area we make oblique cuts with a depth of 1/3 of the stem. At the scion from the bottom up, at the rootstock from top to bottom.

In this state, both plants grow together within ten days. Determining that everything is going right for you is very simple. The scion will develop noticeably better than the rootstock, since the rootstock must transfer part of its juice to the scion.

If everything is so, then after ten days we remove the entire stem of the stock, cutting it off with a blade 1-2 mm above the splicing site, and close the cut with a second tape.

Fixing ribbons are best made from non-woven material, but cotton can also be used. Scotch tape is needed to fix the end and quickly loosen it with further thickening of the stem.

This is where the splicing ends, and the seedlings are already growing on two roots and so planted in the ground.

Tomatoes should be grafted only on strong and healthy seedlings. Be sure to have good lighting and a little high humidity at the time of splicing.

Sometimes this technique increases the yield from the bush by 30-40%, good luck.

Watch the video on how I grew two tomato bushes into one.

Series of messages " ":
Organic farming and great videos on growing vegetables from seeding to harvesting.
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Part 38 - Growing tomatoes on two roots
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One bush of tomatoes can be grown on two roots - and the place is saved, and the harvest will be more abundant. Thus, you can get up to 50-60 good large tomatoes from each bush. The sort doesn't matter.

To do this, seeds are planted in one container close to each other - at a distance of no more than 1 cm. When the seedlings grow up and the thickness of the stem becomes large enough, the top layer of the stems of two neighboring plants is removed with a sharp razor from the side that they face each other so that cambium exposed. The length of the incision is 2-3 centimeters. After that, the plants are tilted towards each other so that the exposed sections of the stems are aligned, and this place is tightly wrapped with a ribbon of film about 1 cm wide. Then such plants are grown as ordinary seedlings.

Shortly before planting the seedlings in the ground, in one of the plants that developed worse, pinch the top - 3-5 cm are left above the cut. The plant transplanted into the ground develops rapidly, as it now has a powerful root system. When it gets stronger, the film is carefully removed.

Caring for a double bush is different in that it needs to be watered and fed more often and more abundantly, given the presence of two roots. When planting, they put a reliable support, because the bush turns out to be much larger than usual.

How to grow tomatoes by May without a greenhouse and without seedlings

In the autumn, just before the frost, when the fruiting of tomatoes stops, tear off several shoots from the bushes (of any variety) you like and put them in water for 5-6 days (put the plucked shoots into the water immediately or with a minimum period of time, otherwise you will not get a positive result ). After the specified time, the shoots will give roots, after which you can transplant them into the ground or into plastic bags, or into flower pots. During the winter, the tomato bushes will stretch out, and from each of them it will be necessary to break off the top and also put it in water, which, in turn, will give roots, after which they must be planted. Around April, your tomatoes will bloom, and in May they will already give red fruits.

Using this method, tomatoes can be grown even in areas where warm summers are very short.

Growing a tomato according to Maslov

(up to 70 kg per plant)

After observing the development of tomato plants for many years, I came to the conclusion that in order to ensure the pouring of a large number of fruits, a powerful root system is needed.

I tried to increase it in two ways.

First- planting seedlings not vertically, as is usually the case, but lying down. In a previously prepared furrow, I lay not only the root, but 2/3 of the stem, having previously removed the leaves from this part. I fall asleep with a layer of soil of 10-12 cm. I lay the plant strictly from south to north, so that as it grows, it reaches for the sun, straightens up and grows vertically. On the buried part of the stem, roots quickly form, which are included in the general nutrition system (Fig. 1). Moreover, these roots are several times larger and more effective than the main one.

Rice. 1. This method of planting tomatoes is suitable for large areas of land.

Now for the second way. It is even simpler and accessible to any gardener. I suggest that some stepchildren on tomato plants not be removed, but used to make the root system more powerful. How? Very simple. The first side shoots - I don’t remove the stepchildren, but let them grow longer. I tear off the leaves from them, bend them to the ground and cover them with a layer of soil of 10-12 cm (Fig. 2). The dug-in stepchildren grow quickly. After a month, it is difficult to distinguish them from the main plant both in height and in the number of ripened fruits. It is characteristic that abundant fruiting begins in the immediate vicinity of the ground.

Rice. 2. On the left - plants with rooted stepchildren.
On the right is the usual way of landing.

- Passing, a question. Many people ask: is it possible to use this method if tomato seedlings have already been planted in the ground in the usual way?

- Not being able to get overgrown seedlings at home so that it has a thick stem, I plant it vertically in the soil of an unheated greenhouse. For some time I let it grow, get stronger, and then, almost at the stage of the beginning of fruiting, I transplant it in my own way, lying down. I note that not only are tomato plants not afraid of frequent transplants, but, on the contrary, in my opinion, they love them. After each transplant, the plants take root even better, gain strength very quickly, grow well and bear fruit abundantly.

— Our readers are interested in the rationale for your method.

- Tomatoes are, of course, not bread, not potatoes and not meat. But people need them. They are loved both fresh and canned, so significant areas are allocated for their cultivation. If, however, the yield of tomatoes is sharply increased, then it is possible to have this vegetable in the required quantities and at the same time free up significant areas for growing other crops.

To introduce a new method, no additional material costs are required, you just need to understand the nature of the tomato plant. Unfortunately, plants cannot speak. If the tomato spoke, he would tell that, having intervened in the life of the plant, the person did not think through everything to the end. With the help of ropes, stakes, he made the plant grow vertically so that it occupies a smaller area. Well, that's not bad. But if a cucumber or grapes can grow well and bear fruit abundantly, being planted vertically, while holding both the plant itself and its numerous fruits due to the fact that wildlife itself provided the so-called “whiskers” for this purpose, then a tomato plant of such It does not have a mustache, and therefore it is not suitable for vertical cultivation. The tomato plant all the time tends to the ground in order to live a normal life, determined by nature, but it is not allowed to do this by the ropes on which the plant is suspended. It does not die, grows and even bears fruit, taking care of the offspring.

- But even in such a state, which you think is abnormal for tomatoes, gardeners get quite good results.

- Yes, it is, but the methods I propose allow you to get a crop many times more.

Kira Stoletova

Grafting tomatoes can protect the bushes from diseases and increase the yield. Consider how to properly carry out such a procedure.

The benefits of grafting tomatoes

Grafting of tomatoes (copulation) is gaining more and more popularity. This method is perfect for gardeners with a small garden plot, where it is not possible to plant a large number of bushes. Tomatoes can be grafted not only variety to variety, but also by combining different varieties of nightshade.

Copulation not only helps to solve the area problem, but also benefits the bushes. It is used for several reasons:

To improve the root system. A seedling with two roots receives more nutrients, and fruiting occurs earlier.
To prevent diseases.
To increase productivity. It is possible to grow more valuable varieties of hybrids on less suitable ones.
To increase resistance to changes in temperature, the number of irrigations and soil conditions.

This method is also suitable for the northern regions of vegetable cultivation. Bad weather and temperature fluctuations make it difficult to get a big harvest from one bush, so vegetable copulation makes it possible to harvest the maximum yield from one bush.

When to graft tomatoes

Seeds can be sown in late February or early March. After 2-3 weeks, the seedlings must be dived: transplant 2 plants into separate pots or cups at a distance of 1-1.5 cm. When the seedlings reach 25 cm and the trunk thickness is 4 mm, you can start grafting. This happens about a month before planting tomatoes in the ground. The date is looked at by the gardener's calendar.

The stem of the seedling should be round. If done later, the stem becomes flatter and the graft does not get along.

It is better to do splicing in cloudy weather. If it's sunny outside, it's in the evening.

Methods for grafting tomatoes

When grafted, each stem has its own name. A weak plant that is grafted onto another is called a rootstock. A stronger plant is called a scion. The process is called "ablactation".

Tomatoes are grafted in several ways:

"rapprochement with the tongue";
convergence in one row in the garden.

In the southern regions, the digging method is used. With this method, the “lying” stem is dug in with earth, as a result of which new roots appear in the plant. The digging method is not suitable for northern latitudes due to the formation of new roots: the crop may not fully ripen.

Tomatoes are grafted not only of one variety. You can ablate seedlings of different colors: then there will be red and yellow fruits on one bush.

Ablactation with tongue

You will need a blade, alcohol or other disinfectant, scissors and electrical tape (strong thread, fabric). Hands are disinfected before work.

This technique is used when 3-4 leaves are formed on seedlings. Let's take a closer look at how to plant tomatoes correctly:

Above the cotyledon leaves, with a sharp blade, cut a part of the stem 1.5 cm wide and 1.5 cm long.
The cut is made at the same level of both plants.
On a stock, a cut is made from top to bottom, and on a scion, on the contrary, from bottom to top.
After removing the skin, splits or tongues are made with a depth of 6-7 mm.
The tongues are inserted into each other and fixed.

They are fastened so as not to pinch the stems. For fixing, electrical tape, strips of materials are suitable. It is better not to use polyethylene: it does not allow air to pass through, and roots form in that place.

After copulation, the plants are hidden in the shade. You can put plastic bags on top of the pots for 2 days to increase humidity. The fusion of stems occurs within 2 weeks. After that, the fixing material is removed. At the rootstock, the crown is cut off just above the graft.

The cropped crown is placed in water. After rooting, it is planted as a regular seedling. The crown does not have time to stretch out, so the seedlings come out strong and stocky.

If you sow seeds one at a time in a pot, you can skip picking. For splicing, individual pots with seedlings are pressed against each other, cut and fixed. You need to fasten with a thread, the upper and lower turns should be above and below the connected sections. After that, the seedlings are removed in the shade. After 2 days, the seedlings are returned to the sun, a third of the leaves are removed from the rootstock, and the crown is pinched off. After 2 weeks, the rootstock is removed completely.

As a result of such actions, a seedling with two roots is obtained, which allows you to get more tomato crops.

Rapprochement in one row in the garden

The second way to copulate tomatoes is to approach in the same row in the garden. With this method, stepsons of neighboring plants are spliced. To do this, stepchildren are taken below the first brush. The stock and the scion are connected with "tongues" into one stem.

In order for the vegetable to grow in one stem, the tops are removed from 2 stepchildren. If it is supposed to grow in 2 stems, pinch off the crown of the stock.

Care of grafted seedlings

Active fruiting and large fruits are provided not only by ablation, but also by high-quality plant care. Grafted seedlings develop faster due to the doubled root system, so care should be appropriate:

Where the stepsons approach, the leaves are removed. This allows you to improve the ventilation of tomato lashes.
A few leaves are left on the rootstocks to improve fruiting.
Shoots in the axils of the leaves are removed.
Plants that have reached 170-180 cm are pinched.

Spliced seedlings are watered with warm rainwater under the root, and not sprayed with water. For the best result, plastic bottles with a cut bottom are dug next to the bush.

Copulation is done with tomatoes, which are grown both in pots and in beds.

This is a graft to the main stem of a tomato of an additional root system of a neighboring plant. When picking, two plants are planted in one pot very close to each other, no closer than 1 cm.

When the height of the stem from the cotyledons to the first true leaf is about 10 cm, and its thickness is 3 mm (usually in the first decade of April), I proceed to grafting. It is carried out as follows: the stems of both plants are brought together and they look at where they are best in contact with each other. In places of contact with a sharp grafting knife or blade, both stems are removed (cut off) in length by 2-3 cm of the epidermis (skin). The stems are brought together so that their sections are well aligned, the place of grafting (convergence) is tightly tied with a thin plastic film. The stems grow together easily and quickly if the surface of the cuts is made evenly, smoothly and of the same size. Two weeks later, I cut off the top of a weaker plant with scissors or a knife 2-5 mm above the strapping, and after a week I remove it with a sharpened match. There remains one plant on two roots, which is desirable to be transplanted into a larger vessel (500 ml) and spud the grafting site.
Seedlings can be constructed from a larger number of seedlings, for example, in 4 roots, but this must be done in 2 steps.
When the stems grow together at the grafting site, one of them is removed or both are left (depending on the purpose for which the grafting was carried out). For example, if two varieties were grafted in order to give resistance to plants, then the stem of the resistant variety is removed. If the grafting is done in order to get one double, more powerful plant, then two stems are left.

I grow rare and new varieties and hybrids, I don’t throw away the cut tops, but put them in water. After 7-10 days, roots grow on them, and I plant rooted cuttings like ordinary seedlings. The cut stems do not have time to stretch out, and the seedlings are strong and stocky.

I harden the grafted plants and all the seedlings on a glazed balcony and at the end of May I plant them under arcs, which I cover with a film in advance so that the earth warms up well. Plants on several "legs" grow faster than on one. Tomatoes are ahead in their development of ordinary ones by almost a month. Tomatoes begin to ripen in mid-June. By this time, there are up to 50 fruits and ovaries on the bush. The final harvest is in August, so that late blight does not have time to hit the grafted tomatoes, especially since I treat them with pine broth.

All "many-legged" nightshades give an earlier, and with proper and timely care, a higher yield. It is important not only to carefully vaccinate, but also to leave the plants, otherwise even the best varieties will not give a good harvest.

I rarely place tomatoes on several roots - after 70 cm. The day before planting seedlings, I dig holes, lay out the excavated earth with a roller around them. In each I put a handful of humus, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate and ash and a pinch (1 g) of potassium sulfate and magnesium sulfate. I mix everything with earth. Before planting, I spill the holes with boiling water with potassium permanganate: until I get to the last one, you can plant seedlings in the first one. I put an inverted bottle (1.5 l -3 l) without a bottom into the hole in front of each plant. Through it I water and feed the tomatoes. Plants are provided with water, but the earth is dry and there are no diseases.

After planting, I immediately tie the seedlings to the support and remove 1-2 lower leaves. I form tomatoes into 2-3 stems, leaving strong upper stepchildren. To get an early harvest, I leave one
stem.
I normalize the number of leaves: for tomatoes, I leave one under the first flower brush.
In the future, in tomatoes, I keep one leaf between the flower tassels. As the fruits ripen, I expose the stem, by the end of the growing season, only the very top remains with the leaves. Be sure to break out the stepchildren, tying them to the arcs (I have high arcs)

During the day I ventilate the greenhouse from the arcs: I slightly open the covering material from 2 sides. The arcs are always covered with spunbond and are only opened for procedures, such as watering, feeding or spraying. The rapid development of plants requires more frequent feeding. From the end of June, every 10 days I water with a manure-mineral solution - I insist the weeds with manure for a day, dilute the liquid 10 times and add 1 tbsp to a bucket of the finished solution. a spoonful of any complex mineral fertilizer. Between these dressings I give a mixture: in a bucket of boiling water I dissolve 10 g of boric acid, 5 g of potassium permanganate, an ampoule of iodine, 1 teaspoon of magnesia (I buy at a pharmacy) and 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate.
Before use, I dilute the prepared concentrate five times with cold water.
Spraying is carried out for all tomatoes, without highlighting.

Grafted vegetable plants have never let me down.