Radish, to the great joy of gardeners, refers to crops that can delight us with fruits in early spring. Early ripening and early ripening varieties ripen in 16 to 30 days (from germination to maturity)! This means a month, and a delicious vitamin root crop is already on the table. Without difficulty, you can’t even pull the fish out of the pond ... Caring summer residents know how important it is to take care of plantings during growth. Without a regular glaze, literate top dressing and loosening the harvest of ruddy, vitamin radishes will be scarce, if not none at all.

How to feed (fertilize) radishes?

Preplant soil fertilizer for radishes was mentioned in the article. We found out that radish loves peat, compost, phosphate fertilizers, superphosphate, potassium sulfate, urea. But it does not tolerate, immediately before planting, the introduction of fresh manure, potash fertilizers and wood ash into the soil (the plant shoots from this).

On the need for additional top dressing after germination judge by appearance radishes. Signs:

• There are many leaves, and the roots are small - it means that there is an excess of nitrogen in the soil. What to do? feed phosphorus and potassium. Solution recipes: 40 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate are diluted in a 10-liter bucket of water, or 1 cup of sifted ash and tobacco dust is dissolved in a 10-liter bucket. One of the listed means is watering radishes under the root.
• Faded leaves, sluggish and small fruits - it means that there is not enough nitrogen. What to do? Requires nitrogen supplementation. To do this, prepare a solution of urea: dissolve 1 teaspoon of urea in a 10-liter bucket of water. A solution of urea is used to irrigate once a season at the rate of 3-4 liters per 1 m2.

The normal development of root crops and a moderate amount of greenery indicates the fertility of the soil. This soil is additional fertilize not necessary. If necessary, top dressing of radish is organized no later than 2 weeks before harvest.

How to water a radish?

Radish loves moisture, so regular watering is a must. From a lack of moisture, root crops are formed badly bitter, growth goes in the direction of an arrow, and floweriness overcomes. But overdoing it is also bad. From excess moisture, the radish cracks and rots. Watering is especially important at the stage of the appearance of a true leaf and at the beginning of the formation of a root crop.

After landing water radishes recommended daily, to a depth of the root system - about 10 cm. Gradual watering, layer by layer, allows this to be done. Watering radishes is best in the morning and evening.

During growth - how often to water radishes? As needed, preventing the soil from drying out to a depth of 15 cm.

Do I need to loosen radishes?

It is useful not only to water the beds with young shoots, but also to weed them, and to loosen the soil.

Thin out seedlings at a distance of 3-6 cm from each other. Thinning radishes is not easy, because young plants are very vulnerable. Therefore, it is better to pay more attention to the sowing schemes of a particular variety, so as not to suffer later.

Careful loosening is recommended already at the stage of formation of the first shoots. The crust formed in the top layer of the soil restricts the access of air to the roots, and this interferes with growth. Before emergence loosen the radish to a depth of 2-3 cm. And then - by 5 - 6 cm.

One of the signs of spring is a juicy red radish. It’s both delicious and a gift to the body that has missed vitamins over the long winter - after all, radishes have a bunch of useful properties (for example, grated radishes applied to the skin of the face noticeably heals it, refreshes it, saturates it with nutrients, gives elasticity and elasticity). You can, of course, buy it, but it’s much more pleasant when juicy, healthy, clean root crops are sent to the kitchen straight from the garden!

Well, now about growing radishes. I understand that chemical preparations are created in order to be used, but what if both grandchildren and great-grandchildren crawl around your garden like turtles, and look that they will pick something and eat it. For more than ten years I have not used any pesticides.

How to sow radishes:

Fertilize the garden bed with well-rotted manure-seed or compost-seed (1 bucket per linear meter). Sprinkle a liter jar of ash on top for 2 running meters. m and carefully dig. Loosen well, removing clods. Along the bed, make streams 10 cm apart along the entire length of the bed and sprinkle mashed coal from the fire along the streams. Pickle radish seeds in a solution of dark purple potassium permanganate, dry, pour into a sieve, powder with chalk or starch so that they are white. Then they are better seen on the ground, because we will not sow the seeds, but lay out the seeds 5 cm apart.

But now the bed has been sown. Now you need to sprinkle the seeds with a layer of earth 1.5-2 cm, press the earth with the back of the chopper and water the entire bed (1 watering can per 1 sq. M), adding an EM preparation to the water. After that, sprinkle the bed along the entire length with a mixture of ash and celandine from cross-fleas (a liter jar of crumpled celandine powder and the same amount of ash). A bed 80 cm wide is ready.

Along the very edge, along the perimeter, we plant 1 lin. m spinach, lettuce, watercress, dill. And now we cover the bed with a light span-bond (thickness 17 or 30 microns). The length of the spunbond should be 1 m longer than the bed, the width should be 3.2 m. We evenly lay out the spunbond on the bed and, retreating 20 cm on each side, we press it along the entire length with boards, we press the boards with bricks, and from the ends the entire remaining spunbond is 2m (bubble over the bed) lay in folds and also press well. Developing, the plants themselves will lift the spunbond, straightening it.

Before germination, we water (directly along the spunbond) every other day in the morning: 1 watering can of clean evening water per 1 sq. m. With a radish growth of 5 cm, on a warm morning we remove the film from one side and from the ends and finally break through when the radish grows up to 10 cm. Do not be surprised - this is a Russian size radish variety. For 7 years of crops there was not a single flower and not a single empty radish! And the radish is beautiful, large, up to 10 cm.

How to water radishes

After the appearance of 2 true leaves, you need to water 2 times a day. I got up in the morning, and the first warm-up before breakfast is to pour 6 watering cans from the evening of the prepared water onto a 6-meter bed, and in the evening, at dusk, the second warm-up. Once a week I water with fermented grass (2 liters per bucket of water), | removing the strainer from the watering can.

When ripe full-sized radish fruits appear, choose 4-6 of them for planting on seeds. In a sunny place, deeply loosen a hole with a diameter of 35-40 cm, pour a bucket of fermented grass into it.

At the radish, pinch off the root 2-3 cm, cut off the tops of the leaves and plant the radish without deepening the growth point. Next to stick a stake at least 1 m above the ground. Make a second hole a meter from the first hole, and so on.

Sprinkle the ground around the planted radish with a mixture of ash and celandine and mulch with nettle, burdock, wormwood or other non-flowering grass. Water and fertilize frequently.

Radish stalks are affected every year by aphids, cross-flea beetles, rapeseed beetles, which also lay larvae. I get rid of this evil with garlic infusion: 100 g of strong long-term infusion for 5 liters of water. I spray morning and evening.

Another great way to get rid of it. Take 2 handfuls of onion peel, 2 handfuls of dry leaves and stems of celandine, pour a bucket of boiling water and leave for a day. When the first flower stalks appear, a rapeseed flower beetle appears.

Beware! He pierces young pods with his sting and sucks the juice from the seeds. This is where you start spraying. After spraying, powder with ash.

And in June, tear, dig, dry celandine, and as much as possible, it is suitable for everything. But that is another story. I wish you great harvests!

watermelon radish

Discover an unusual hybrid - watermelon radish. Under the bepo-zepenoy peel of the root crop, a pink or purple pulp is hidden, reminiscent of the color of a watermelon. Outwardly, the hybrid looks like a small turnip, about 8 cm in diameter.

It is interesting that the outer part of the exotic is slightly bitter, and closer to the middle there is a sweetish aftertaste. Useful due to the content of vitamin C and folic acid. In cooking, it is baked, stewed with vegetables, mashed, eaten raw or as part of salads. Cocktails are decorated with slices. Watermelon radish can be purchased at the supermarket. And if you want, you can even grow your own.

On a note

Mid-early varieties of radish

Choose radishes for spring sowing.

Varieties are early (25-30 days), mid-ripening (30-35 days) and late-ripening (35-45 days or more). Early and mid-season are resistant to frost and bolting, they are grown in spring.

Late-ripening are intended for sowing at the end of summer.

Sort "Korund".

The growing season from germination to harvest is 32-36 days.

Root crops from round to oblong shape, bright red, weighing 15-30 g. The flesh is white-pink, dense, crispy, slightly spicy. The variety is resistant to shooting.

Variety "Sax".

Vegetation period from germination to harvest is 25-30 days. Root crops weighing 8-12 g, red, the flesh is white-pink, juicy, dense, sweet-spicy.

A characteristic feature is a small tops compared to the root crop.

The earth in our garden is sand. And if we take into account that in summer we have a heat of up to 40 °, and even the steppe dry winds do not give life, it is easy to imagine how much work is needed to grow at least some kind of crop. But we are not discouraged.

I want to tell you how I grow early harvest of radishes and tomato seedlings. Maybe my advice will be useful to someone.

I sow radishes on the first day of my appearance at the dacha after winter - somewhere in the second half of March. I sow radishes in rows, but not thickly, so as not to break through. Side by side I sow a couple of rows of lettuce, as well as early and cauliflower for seedlings. I water the bed well and cover with plastic wrap. When everything rises, I remove the film and cover the bed with agrofiber. If it is still cold, then even in two layers. Along the edges I press the agrofibre with plastic bottles of water. I water the garden well and wait for the harvest. (If there is no rain, watering is desirable.)

Harvest will be around May 1st. After harvesting, I remove the agrofibre - the radish under it turns out tasty, sweet, juicy, without bitterness and is not affected by pests. In the ground without shelter with agrofibre, such a tasty radish does not work.

Now about seedlings of tomatoes.

My garden is far away, I have to go by minibus and a crowded bus, so transporting seedlings from home is a problem. At home, I grow a minimum of seedlings: peppers, blue, early tomatoes, Iskander F1 zucchini and some seedlings of tall tomatoes. I grow the rest of the seedlings in the garden.

In early April, I build a greenhouse in the garden. The box is made of boards, any size (I have 2.5 × 1.5), but the sides should be such that the box is 5 centimeters above ground level, and down - on the bayonet of a shovel.

I remove the earth from the box.

I pour 2-3 buckets of humus into it, dig it shallowly, level it, sow the seeds in rows, water it well, put low arcs and cover with a film. From time to time I open the film, water the seedlings, fertilize with carbamide, weed if there are weeds, and again cover with a film. When it is warm, I open the film for a day to harden the seedlings. After planting the seedlings in a permanent place, I pull the box out of the ground, dry it and put it in the barn, and fill the hole with earth.

I have been growing tomato seedlings this way for 22 years.

In my greenhouse, she is not even afraid of frosts: at the beginning of May 1999, when it was -7 °, the seedlings froze in the unheated greenhouses of the neighbors, but at me - at least something!

L.I. Lashina

Autumn harvest of radishes

In order to have fresh radishes on the table until autumn, several crops are carried out per season. The last one is in the first half of August.

FROZES FOR NO WAY

Radish is a fairly cold-resistant plant, it is not afraid of frosts, including night frosts, and it tolerates a decrease in temperature to minus 2-3″ calmly. The culture prefers neutral or slightly acidic soils. Radishes do not grow well on sour radishes, and a weak plant is more quickly affected by various diseases, including clubroot.

Seeds are sown in an ordinary way, leaving a distance of 15 cm between rows. Radishes are very fond of light, so seedlings must be thinned out. Thickening of plantings can lead to stretching of the plant and its shooting.

WHAT TO BEWARE OF?

It is very important to observe the correct water regime. The plant loves moist soil. If it lacks water, the roots will be rotten, not juicy, with voids. But at the same time, excess moisture is also dangerous, which happens after excessive watering, heavy rains and prolonged rains. Under such conditions, root crops can crack. Excess moisture can also contribute to blackleg radish disease. In such cases, we cover the crops with a film before the rain.

Radishes often go to the arrow. This happens when the daylight hours are more than 13-14 hours. To reduce its duration, plantings are covered with a dark cloth or film for the period from 18 to 6 hours. But in August, when the daylight hours are already short, there is no need for this.

DRIVING THE FLEA

Radishes are planted in areas where potatoes grew last year, because it is considered a good predecessor for radishes. But after crops of the cruciferous family (turnips, cabbages, lettuces), it is better not to sow, since they have the same pests and diseases with radishes.

If it is not possible to protect the planting from pests (very often it is a cruciferous flea), sprinkle ashes on the radish. You can also cover the bed with non-woven fabric or film. Radish loves fertile soils, but does not tolerate fresh organic matter, so fresh organic fertilizers are applied in autumn for digging.

There are many varieties, but we fell in love with the early ripe Champion. It is attractive in that the roots are juicy, crispy, tasty and do not form voids inside. We get the harvest within a month after the emergence of shoots.

Julia KUPINA, Belgorod

So that the radish does not bloom

Many gardeners complain that their favorite radish - the earliest spring vegetable - does not grow, or all “goes” into the tops, or a harmful flea has eaten everything. Let's look at the reasons for failure.

Radishes are native to China. In Russia, they began to grow it on the personal instructions of Peter I. There are a lot of vitamins (group B. C), trace elements in radish - potassium, iron, calcium, phosphorus, magnesium. It cleanses the body of toxins, breaks down fat.

I start sowing radishes in open ground when it gets a little warmer, from mid-April to mid-May. So that the vegetable is always on the table, I sow the seeds with an interval of 10-20 days. I do not soak the seeds, but I water the beds constantly and abundantly. After sowing, I cover the bed with a film, but do not forget to water the radish a couple of times a day. I remove the film when shoots appear. Then I loosen and continue to water constantly. Constantly moist soil is the key to a tender and juicy root crop. When the seedlings have two leaves, I begin to thin them out. I leave at least 4 cm between plants. Particular attention to the radish in dry weather, if the root crop is not watered at this time, the radish will grow ugly, hard and bitter.

I fight with cruciferous fleas with the help of dry mustard, dusting radishes with it. Ash and tobacco dust save from snails and slugs.

How about radish greens?

Onions, dill, parsley, watercress… Traditional crops for growing on windowsills. But you can make a difference! How do you like radish greens in winter?

I choose zoned early and mid-season varieties (Belarusian selection): Zarya, Smachny, Alba. I also liked the radish of the Russian variety Mokhovsky, which can be grown all year round. Since the vegetable loves potassium, I add a pinch of potassium sulfate to the soil mixture (I buy it in the store) before sowing, in November-December (or after sowing, I dust the rows with wood ash). Then I lightly roll the ground and sow the seeds according to the scheme 5 × 10 cm to a depth of 1 cm.

Radishes are not capricious, but responsive to competent care. It is cold-resistant, so I put the boxes on a cool windowsill. Also, radishes are photophilous, and due to the fact that the winter day is short, after me, get ready for artificial lighting (I use a white fluorescent lamp with a power of 80 W). Closer to spring, the backlight can be stopped. Periodically loosen the soil, water daily, but moderately. When the leaves grow (maybe a week after sowing), I spray them, because. during the heating period, the air in the apartment is dry. I open the window - the radish needs fresh air. Already in March, I take out a box with plants during the day on the balcony to harden, and later, when the temperature is above zero at night, I finally “relocate” here. In case of frost, I cover the container with foil.

One top dressing is enough: I dissolve a little mullein 1:12 in water (do not overdo it!).

Young, sharp-tasting radish leaves are rich in vitamin C, sugars, protein, essential amino acids, and have bactericidal properties. Mustard oils give them a special piquancy. I add leaves to salads, side dishes. The benefits for the body are undeniable!

Growing radishes - experiment with seeds

We do not always have the strength, ability and desire to do everything as it should, and this can apply to any area of ​​life. Gardening is, of course, no exception. Especially if you are a novice summer resident and, moreover, a young mother with a one-year-old child in her arms.

Frankly, it all started with an innocent: “But what if ?!” Or not, it all started with the fact that I really love radishes. I love it so much that in winter I buy the notorious Israeli bags of slightly sprouted, slightly frozen and tasteless fruits just to see thin pink circles in my salad. Then spring comes - and my mother plants a French breakfast in the greenhouse in April, and three weeks later

joy comes - fresh homemade radish. And then summer comes, and radishes run out until next spring. Because, according to the literature, this culture loves a short daylight hours, otherwise everything goes into color. Well, I put up with it for years. But the summer before last, literally starving without radishes, I suddenly thought: “But I’ll take it and grow it in the summer!”

And in the winter I bought several bags of seeds. As a result, my desire to prove to everyone around me that radish actually grows beautifully even during the three brightest months, resulted in a large-scale experiment. My wards had to not only prove their ability to grow under the sun, but also demonstrate all their love of life, despite such adversities as shading, thickening, weeds, slugs and heavy rain. After that, I subjected the leaders to the second stage of testing (or rather, torture): lying in the refrigerator, they had to demonstrate all their ability to maintain their original appearance and taste.

I chose the seeds according to the principle, the more beautiful the picture on the bag, the better. There were no other criteria. Landings were carried out throughout the summer, starting in June and ending in early August. Everything was very simple: the earth was loosened, grooves were made and spilled with water, into which seeds were planted to a depth of about 2 cm. Then this case was sprinkled with ashes and then closed with earth. The sprouts were then shaded with a covering material, over which she then watered.

Testing store-bought radish varieties

The results are as follows:

Amur

This variety has a modest name, but what abilities! Radishes grew well in dense planting conditions, were not actually attacked by slugs, and ripened well. His taste was pleasant, without bitterness. In the refrigerator, he behaved perfectly - plucked in September, Amur lay until the end of November and actually did not lose its presentation. I think that this is a very good variety, because there was not a word on the bag that it has excellent keeping quality.

Cranberries in sugar

The name alone makes me salivate! Fortunately, the variety lives up to its name. Bright pink (almost luminous) roots grew, despite the fact that they were planted in partial shade under a pear, next to spinach (it had to be pulled out on a salad when individual leaves blocked the neighbor's light). These are really Spartan conditions! But Cranberries in sugar grew, turned out to be strong, tasty, without bitterness. Well kept (until the end of November). I will definitely buy this variety in the future - unpretentious, trouble-free, justifying the hopes placed on it.

Red giant

The declared root crops with a “waist” of 10 centimeters did not grow under the conditions I proposed.

It turned out just a little larger than the rest, radish (6 cm - the largest specimens). And productivity is so-so. On the package it was indicated that the variety was intended for winter storage. Frankly, there was nothing special to clean up. He did not live up to my expectations.

red giant

But this variety showed itself in the best possible way. Long "sausages" with mouse tails at the end - one to one. Picking this radish is a pleasure. He withstood all the tests and at the exit demonstrated a mild taste and signature "crunchiness" on the teeth. The only downside is storage. In the refrigerator, the Red Giant became slightly transparent inside, losing its marketable appearance. I didn’t really want to eat it (but also throw away such beauty). In general, an ideal variety for fresh salads. It is impossible to discount it, despite the puncture with storage.

Mix Cheerful okroshka

Different colors, friendly shoots. Radishes sat in the garden and grew longer than the stated period. I didn't see any particular result. Yes, something has grown. Yes, it was not eaten by slugs. But that's all.

Blue frost

In the garden, he showed himself great - despite the heavy rains, not a single root crop cracked. Around the porridge of mud - and he knows himself ripening. But it turned out to be completely unsuitable for storage.

Mix Multitrio

It was stated that it should be planted in the spring. But I really wanted to know if the variety blunders in the summer? Unfortunately yes! Almost nothing has grown. But there’s nothing to scold, the manufacturer on the packaging directly indicated that the hot months are not the best time to plant.

Maybe my experiments will seem inhuman to someone - a good summer resident, she planted a radish anywhere. But you must admit that you will not find a free garden bed in the summer during the day with a fire. As for leaving, in fact, everything was not so launched on my part. As far as possible, she carried out weeding, with a long absence of rain she watered. During the growth period, all radishes received one top dressing with bio-fertilizers and several “powders” with ash. It doesn't make sense to rant any further, in my opinion. This or that variety does not want to grow in these conditions - so be it, let's plant another one that agrees with the proposed rules. After all, there are so many different interesting types of radishes, and for each of them you want to someday at least once find a place in the garden.

Radish 12 months

Usually radishes are grown only in spring and autumn. I set up a conveyor belt, and the radish on the table is not translated all year round.

At the end of March, having selected the earliest varieties (my favorites are 18 days old, Red with a white tip, French Breakfast, Duet, and now Odyssey), I sparge the seeds for 12 hours. After a day, they peck, and I sow them partially in a greenhouse, and partially - in half-liter pots made from plastic bottles. I keep some of these pots warm (on the kitchen window), and some in the loggia, it's cool there. First of all, shoots appear on a warm window, in the loggia they are 10-12 days behind, and in the greenhouse they will appear at all in 2-3 weeks. In general, when the earliest radish produces 2-3 true leaves, I carefully

I transplant it to an empty place in the same greenhouse. After about a week, a fresh radish appears on the table. The early one departed - the second “shift” is ripening, and after it the third one. Thus, even without a heated greenhouse, I get radishes almost a month earlier than my neighbors.

Autumn radishes (slightly early, but mostly mid-season and late varieties, such as the Red Giant and Ice Icicle) are sown in the ground from July 15 in a couple of lines with an interval of 2 weeks according to the scheme 15 × 5 cm, and for late - 20 × 8 cm. Noticed. that it works best in slightly shaded areas. Heavy soil is contraindicated - the radish turns out to be medium-sized.

As they mature, individual root crops are used for food. The rest sit until mid-October, and if the weather allows - until the end of the month. Radish frosts are not terrible. I store it in the cellar, just like carrots, and it lies until March, practically without losing its taste and freshness. Radish root crops of late varieties are large, but at the same time crispy, juicy, tender and not as sharp as early ones, they do not flake for a long time.

Lunar radish

Gardeners usually start planting radishes in open ground in early spring. But at this time I have so many other urgent works on the site that I take up its seeds at the end of July, attaching them to the place of the harvested garlic. I must say that on my site I have long been using the simplest narrow ridges according to the Mitlider method with ennobled soil, oriented in the direction from north to south and well lit by the sun (I do not even allow a slight shadow).

So, after harvesting the garlic, I put the earth in order with the help of a flat cutter: I loosen it to a depth of about 15 cm. rush to take over.

I gave up a shovel a long time ago, as digging destroys the structure of the soil. But it is in its upper layer that a whole world of living beings lives (bacteria, fungi, all kinds of insects, beetles and, of course, earthworms), processing all organic matter and thereby increasing the fertility of the earth. Thus, when processing with a flat cutter, I do not violate not only the habitat of these underground inhabitants, but simply leave them in their usual places. I do not turn their house upside down, but I improve it, providing air and moisture. And if the land is good, then the plants grow without problems.

In only one thing, I decided to “correct” Mitlider: I do not apply the fertilizers he proposed, replacing them with the simplest organic matter.

And all for the same reason - let the "livestock" of soil inhabitants increase as much as possible.

But back to the radish.

Having prepared the bed in this way, carefully leveling it with a rake and restoring the sides, I proceed to sowing the seeds. With the same flat cutter, I make two furrows along the ridge with a distance between them of 30 cm, a depth of 1-2 cm and a width of about 3 cm (the width of the tool blade). After that, I sow the seeds, focusing on the dates according to the lunar calendar, when the Moon is in its waning phase in the signs of the zodiac that obey the elements of the Earth (Taurus, Virgo, Capricorn). Just before sowing, I water the furrows well with clean water. I sow the seeds at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other and then cover them with a thin layer of soil mixture consisting of compost soil and sand.

After about 5-6 days, the first shoots appear. So that they get stronger and do not become a victim of voracious birds, I cover the bed with white non-woven material. After another five days, I remove the shelter and mulch the entire soil with grass with a layer of 5 cm, mowed with a lawn mower on the lawn. This thickness of the mulch protects the soil from overheating and hypothermia. But most importantly: under it, even in the hottest and driest weather, there is always a supply of moisture. Atmospheric precipitation and dew contribute to the process of its decay, which provides food for worms and soil microorganisms. And those, in turn, create favorable conditions for building up humus, as I have already said above. So it turns out the ecological cycle in the garden at minimal cost.

Moreover, for the entire growing season of radishes, I do not water the garden, do not weed and do not loosen. Again, saving time and effort.

Well, as for the radish itself, it has a long taproot, which even without me knows where to grow, as well as how and where to get water and food. Of course, if there is a strong heat at the time when the plants are still germinating and their root system is just beginning to form, I do not keep them on dry rations and spend regular watering. But only, I repeat, during this period.

Last year I sowed several new varieties of radishes, but I was completely satisfied with only one - this is Duro. It is early ripening, fruitful, with good taste, does not shoot. At the same time, some root crops turned out to be so large that I didn’t even begin to remove them from the garden, because I like to eat only medium sizes - they are tastier and more tender.

In salads, I love to use young radish tops, which, according to many doctors, are much healthier than the root crops themselves.

Viktor Pavlovich

Juicy radish and replanting

Almost all summer residents write that in order to increase the fertility of the land, they introduce humus, manure and ash. Of course, they are doing everything right, and I do the same myself. But from personal experience, I was convinced that with organic fertilizers you need to be more careful where the radish will grow. Once I didn’t put ashes in the beds in the spring (there wasn’t enough of it then), and my radish grew extremely juicy. I thought it was an accident, but for the purity of the experiment I decided to do the same for the next year (I’m actually a meticulous person and always write down what plantings I brought in and when, so I have a fad here). But the next season, the root crops were just as tasty.

Now I bring in ashes only in the fall, when I prepare the vacated beds for new labor exploits.

And radishes do not like freshly manured soil. But it responds well to a solution of mullein (a bucket of 10 liters of water). I always feed them young sprouts a week and a half after they hatch. If the weather is cold outside, I add 1 tsp to the solution. urea, and the plants are gaining strength right before our eyes as if nothing had happened.

I carry out the second sowing of radishes in August on the beds freed from garlic.

At this time, it is not necessary to water it, because it often rains, and the main pests - cruciferous fleas - no longer annoy young shoots.

For such a planting, the Red Giant variety is best suited. I confess that the harvest is not too generous, but it’s still nice to crunch fresh radishes in the fall. I clean it before frost, and cut off the tops and put them together with root crops in separate boxes, which I put in the basement.

Bogdan Vasilevich Voronezh

Radishes throughout the summer

Radish is a tasty and unpretentious vegetable, which can be harvested throughout the summer. First of all, you should decide on the varieties of radish - it is worth planting both early-ripening and late-ripening ones. Early ripening varieties ripen within 20-25 days after germination. They can be sown again in June-July, but in the second half of summer they develop worse. To have a tasty radish in August, it is better to sow late-ripening varieties.

To remove low-quality seeds, I fill them with salted water for a while and then discard the remaining ones afloat.

I choose a well-lit place for growing radishes, with loose, nutrient-rich soil. I fertilize the ridges with manure in advance, even in the fall, and in the spring I additionally add compost or humus. Then I add wood ash and superphosphate.

When sowing, I bury the seeds on the phalanx of the finger. I sow according to the scheme 8 × 5 cm. On average, seed consumption is 3-4 g per 1 sq. m - it takes me about 20 g per garden. It is often difficult to place one seed in each hole. Yes, and germination is never 100%, so I sow 2-3 seeds together. Such closely planted seedlings cannot form full-fledged root crops, so that with good germination, seedlings have to be thinned out.

I carry out weeding as weeds appear and be sure to loosen the top layer of soil so that air and moisture are better supplied to the roots. I water the ridges in the evenings with warm water. On a sunny day, it is impossible to water the plants, since the drops on the tops focus the rays like lenses, and as a result, burns appear on the tender leaves. With insufficient watering, the roots become hard, or voids form in them and they crack.

Elena KALENSKAYA, Korosten

vitamin radish

Radishes are almost 95% water, which means they are a dietary vegetable. Of course, the maximum amount of useful substances (and these are vitamins A, E, C, group B, trace elements: calcium, zinc, copper, etc.) are contained in a fresh root-fruit, which means that it is better to grow it on your own plot so that it always was at hand.

THERE IS NO MUCH VARIETIES!

Today, more than 50 varieties of radishes are known, differing not only in color - from white to purple, but also in the speed of ripening. Early-ripening radish fruits can be pulled out of the garden after 2-3 weeks, but late-ripening - after 40 days or more. In addition, radish varieties differ in the degree of sharpness of taste, root diameter (from 2 to 10 cm) and shape - from round to oval. Which variety to choose is a matter of taste. Growing any of them is quite simple.

SPRING VEGETABLE

Radish gets along well in almost any soil and any climate - it is resistant to cold snaps and does not like excessive sunlight. Therefore, it can be sown already at the end of April, when the main frosts have passed. But prepare the soil for planting better in the fall. To do this, dig up the bed, remove the weeds and add 2 kg of manure, 2 kg of peat and 2 kg of compost for every 1 sq. m of soil. In the spring, before planting, dig the bed again.

If you want to sow radishes as soon as possible, and the soil has not yet warmed up properly, pour hot water over the bed. Soak seeds for 20-30 minutes. in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. In the bed, make shallow grooves at a distance of about 10 cm from each other and carefully distribute the seeds along them. Sprinkle with earth, lightly tamping, and then pour warm water.

Radishes are easy to care for. It needs to be watered every other day, and plentifully, loosen the soil and remove weeds. In hot weather, plantings should be watered daily.

HARVEST FROM THE WINDOWSILL

Radishes are one of those crops that can be grown without problems not only in the garden, but also on the windowsill or on the glazed balcony. Take fertile soil and fill small boxes with it (do not forget to pour expanded clay or pebbles on the bottom as a drainage layer). Make shallow grooves and spill with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Sow radishes, lightly sprinkle the seeds with soil on top. Stretch the film on the box until shoots appear. When they appear, remove the film and put the radish on the brightest window (if there is not enough sun, install artificial lighting).

For the fastest harvest from the windowsill, choose ultra-early radish varieties - Firstborn F1, 18 days old, Ilka, Duro etc.

DOCTOR IN THE GROUND

Radish strengthens the immune system, has an antiviral, antimicrobial, bile and diuretic effect, increases hemoglobin levels and lowers blood sugar and cholesterol, improves the functioning of the gastrointestinal tract, and promotes weight loss.

Compress. Grate 150 g of radish on a fine grater and put the resulting mass in gauze. Apply to the lower back with sciatica in the evening for 15 minutes.

Infusion. For its preparation you will need: 100 g of radish, 40 g of parsley, 1 tsp. honey, 0.3 tsp. lemon juice. Grate radishes, add finely chopped parsley, lemon juice and honey. Mix everything and place in the refrigerator for several hours. Take an infusion of 20 ml 3 times a day before meals to improve the functioning of the gastrointestinal tract.

Juice. Take 500 g of radish and 30 g of honey. Grate the radish on a fine grater and squeeze the juice through cheesecloth. Mix with honey. Drink 1 tbsp. l. 3 times a day for bronchial asthma.

Tincture. Prepare 0.2 l of vodka, 0.2 l of radish juice, 100 ml of onion juice, juice of 1 lemon, 50 g of honey. Mix all the ingredients and let it brew in the refrigerator for a day. Take 1 tsp. 3 times a day to increase immunity, treat inflammatory diseases of the upper respiratory tract, SARS.

Cocktail. Mix 100 ml dry red wine, 50 ml radish juice and 30 ml mineral water. Take 100 ml in the morning and evening for inflammatory diseases of the genitourinary system.

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I want to grow a beautiful tasty radish, but it doesn’t work out.
At first, an earthen flea pestered, it seemed to cope with it, then someone gnawed the root crops (see photo). What is this pest?

Radish is considered the most popular early ripening crop and belongs to green vegetables. The leaves and roots contain a large amount of vitamins. At first glance, it may seem that growing this crop is a simple process. However, to get a rich harvest, you should remember the basic rules for growing and do not forget to thin out seedlings.

Typically, radishes use a frequent sowing method to make it easier for the crop to break through and not be drowned out by weeds. In addition, this is done so that poor seed germination does not affect the future harvest.

Radish care consists of:

• glaze;
• thinning;
• loosening;
• top dressing.

After about 5 days, when the first shoots appeared, the first thinning should be carried out, since the radish is a light-loving crop and will stretch from shading and shoot arrows early.

The optimal distance between sprouts is 2-3 cm. Seedlings with expanded cotyledon leaves can be transplanted to a new place. And plants with small leaves are destroyed.

In addition, due to thinning, the leaves of the plant take a horizontal position. This position prevents the appearance of arrows.

Uncut radish

It is difficult to say exactly when the radish should be thinned. Usually the second time you need to thin out after about a month. It is necessary to leave a distance so that the root crop can grow and develop. To do this, seedlings are thinned out at the rate of 5-6 cm between plants. The plucked root crops can already be put into food.

Basic thinning rules:

1. Thinning is recommended after watering.
2. The best time for thinning is in the evening.
3. Around the seedling, you should hold the ground with one hand, and pull the plant out of the ground with the other hand. This simple procedure will reduce the risk of possible capture of a neighboring plant.

After thinning, you need to compact the soil with your hands and pour the remaining sprouts with warm water. To improve aeration, it is recommended to loosen the ground between the rows.

To avoid the thinning procedure, radish seeds can be mixed with semolina or sand.

Radish thinning

If this culture is not regularly watered, then the roots will grow dry, bitter, hollow. However, the plant should not be flooded either, since the root crop will rot. Therefore, in order to get a good, rich, crispy and sweet harvest, it is necessary to control the dosage and supply of moisture. After each watering, it is recommended to loosen the soil.

To avoid early and premature flowering of the plant, it is recommended to water the radish in small portions 2-3 times a week. This procedure helps to reduce the temperature of the soil. In addition, it is necessary to control the land, and as it dries up, water the beds with the plant.

In hot weather, this plant may need to be watered daily.

The first time the soil is watered immediately after sowing the plant.

An important point when watering is the depth of watering:

• first water the bed so that the water penetrates to a depth of 8 cm;
• when the roots have formed, the plant should be watered to a depth of 15 cm.

For irrigation, simple clean water, a solution of tobacco or ash, herbal infusion is suitable. It is recommended to combine watering with prevention against pests. Radish has a developed root system and in some varieties the root can germinate up to 30 cm in depth.

This should be taken into account when watering, it is necessary that it has enough moisture to feed. Improper wetting and drying of the soil can lead to the plant shooting, dry and empty root crops.

A few hours before harvesting, the last watering of the plant is carried out. Thanks to this, root crops will be tasty, juicy and can last longer.

Watering radishes

Radishes require nutritious soils, and for this the soil needs to be fed. However, this cult can accumulate nitrates. For this reason, fertilizing should be done carefully and chemical fertilizers should be avoided.

In autumn, the main fertilization takes place. When digging, organic matter is added to the soil. In the spring, before planting, complex mineral fertilizers are added to the soil. Such top dressing is sufficient on fertile soils.
Poor infertile soils need top dressing, which is carried out along with watering.
As fertilizers during the growth of radishes are perfect:

• potassium chloride;
• superphosphate;
• a solution of bird droppings or slurry.

However, it should be remembered that a supersaturation with nitrogen can cause the bush to shoot, and not the growth of the root crop.

In addition, soils at the top can be fertilized with humus and peat. However, their layer should not be higher than 1 cm. Thanks to this procedure, less evaporation of moisture occurs, and it lingers in the ground.

When growing radishes in greenhouses, ventilation should be carried out after each watering to reduce the risk of blackleg disease.

Fertilizing the soil for planting radishes

Nitrogen fertilizers are applied during irrigation with the calculation of 20-30 g per square meter. It is contraindicated to fertilize radishes with fresh manure, since such top dressing will cause the plant to bloom, and not the development of the root crop. To collect a rich and large crop of this crop, it is recommended to regularly weed and loosen the aisles.

Radishes need thinning. Without this procedure, the root crop will grow small and deformed, as the seedlings will fight among themselves for the necessary conditions for growth: water, nutrition, light. Therefore, many gardeners thin out radishes at least twice - the first time after germination, and the second time about a month after planting.

One of the most pressing issues for professional and amateur gardeners is still watering vegetables. Proper and regular irrigation is an essential part of any vegetable crop care. In addition, the quality and quantity of the future harvest depends on it. Before planting radishes in open ground, it is worth studying a lot of information about it, it is especially important to pay attention to watering this vegetable.

Watering frequency

Radishes are exactly the kind of crop that needs moisture for a big harvest. If some vegetables can live without water for several days, then it is best not to forget about radishes.

In order not to get a low-grade and sluggish crop, it is very important to try to water this vegetable correctly and regularly, while observing all the important points.

To get a good radish that will have an excellent presentation, consider the main features of this vegetable:

• after planting the seeds, they need abundant watering, but, of course, it is not worth pouring them so that there is water;
• even if the seeds were soaked, it is very important to moisten the crops;
• as for the depth of irrigation, it is very important to remember here that in order to form a real leaf, the soil should be moistened by about ten centimeters, and already during the formation of the fruits themselves - by 15-20 cm;
• if store-bought seeds are used and the length of the vegetable root is indicated on the package (for example, it can be 15-30 cm), then it is very important to ensure watering at this distance, otherwise the plant will suffer from a lack of moisture.

Radish seedlings and its seedlings should be watered with water at room temperature. Too cold water, according to many experts, negatively affects the condition of vegetables in the future. If we are talking about seeds, then they may not sprout at all.

Watering radishes in the open field is not difficult, but it should be regular. It is impossible to say for sure that five or seven times a plentiful watering a week is enough for radishes. Everything here is individual and depends on many factors. The frequency of watering depends on climatic and weather conditions, as well as on the rate of ripening of the fruits of the vegetable.

On average, experts recommend watering the most common beds in the garden once every 2-3 days, if the weather is very sunny and hot outside, then the frequency of watering should be increased. So the radish will grow faster. In hot weather, the beds should always be moist, but not too flooded. In case of severe drought, you can water radishes several times a day, preferably in the morning and evening. In cold weather, plants can be provided with moisture once every five days.

Common Mistakes

Despite the fact that there is nothing difficult in watering the beds with a watering can, even here beginner gardeners and gardeners make mistakes. To get an excellent harvest at home, consider the main mistakes that can be made:

• The bitter taste of radish and voids in it are most often formed from a lack of moisture during germination in the garden. In addition, vegetables grown with untimely moisture tend to be very rough and tasteless.
• With frequent drought, radishes can shoot arrows that will soon bloom. Because of this, the quality of the crop can be greatly reduced, and the number of future vegetables will also be small.
• Cracked root crops are a consequence of excess moisture. Do not forget that regular watering should be in moderation.
• Do not irrigate with a directed jet on the root itself or under it. Soil washing should be avoided as much as possible. If this happens, then the land reserve should be replenished.

In order to avoid a poor harvest, it is very important to study the relevant literature on vegetable care and heed the advice of experts.

It is important to know the following nuances.

• It is best to water in the morning and evening. During the day, it is not recommended to do this due to the fact that the leaves of plants can get burned. This happens due to too rapid evaporation of moisture.
• Watering is best done with a watering can with a fine nozzle. Some people use small hose sprayers. It is impossible to choose large watering cans or water vegetables directly from a hose, since you can wash the ground very strongly from the beds and expose the roots. In the future, they may begin to rot.

• If on some days it is not possible to moisten the soil with radishes, then you can make it mulching. Mulch is great at retaining moisture. It is best to choose dry grass as a mulch and spread it on the beds in a thin layer.
• Watering is very often combined with fertilizer and plant bait with vitamins and minerals, as well as with preventive procedures for various infectious diseases of vegetables. If desired, plain water can be mixed with insect and pest repellents.
• If it came to harvesting vegetables and harvesting, then the last watering should be done 5-6 hours before the harvest itself. If everything is done this way, then the vegetables will be sweet and tasty. Also, they can be stored longer.
• When preparing the soil for radishes, it is best to completely abandon the manure. It can be replaced with other fertilizers. This is due to the fact that with further watering, the leaves will grow best in the first place, and only then the fruits. And it is the leaves that will take away all the nutrients and elements from the root crop, it will be sluggish and weak, which will significantly affect its taste and appearance.
• After rains, showers, or self-irrigation, vegetables require loosening the soil. It should be produced between rows approximately 3-5 cm deep in the soil. This is done for the best supply of oxygen to the root system of the radish. Thus, it will grow faster and produce a bountiful harvest.

19 07.18

How to properly water radishes? We follow important rules

Radish culture is not whimsical, growing it in the garden is not difficult even for a novice gardener. In order for it to grow juicy and tasty, it is enough to follow a few care rules, including watering.

As soon as the seeds are sown, the ground must be watered. Watered with pre-settled, warm water, from a watering can with a fine sieve. It is enough to moisten the bed every day to a depth of 5-8 cm, until the first leaves appear.

When the radish grows 2 full leaves, keep the same watering, but already twice a day. After a couple of weeks, when root crops begin to form, watering should be more abundant, on average 12-15 liters per 1 sq.m, and a depth of up to 15cm. It is important to note that with a lack of moisture, radishes can grow crooked, with voids inside, the lack of proper soil moisture will also affect the taste, the root crop will be dry with a bitter aftertaste.

As a rule, watering is done once every 2-3 days, however, during the dry period, it is advisable to water every day, in the morning or in the evening. If radishes are grown in a region with an abundance of winds and hot weather, it should be taken into account that moisture from the soil evaporates faster, in this case, watering should be done twice a day.

Well retains water in the soil and protects it from drying out, mulch. To do this, a bed with radishes is covered with a small layer of mulch, in addition, humus can be used. When using fertilizer, root crops will not only be juicy, but will also grow faster. If watering is excessive, the fruits may crack, and the plant itself will get sick.

Watering in the fight against harmful insects. Radish stalks attract insects such as cross fleas, aphids, flower beetles and others. Some of them lay larvae and multiply rapidly, destroying the entire crop. You can fight them with all sorts of infusions.

2 cups of onion peel and the same amount of dried celandine, pour 10 liters of boiling water and leave to infuse for 24 hours, then the bed is sprayed with the resulting solution.
200-250g of chopped garlic, pour 1 liter of water, room temperature, let stand for 5-7 days in a cool, dark place, while tightly corking the container. Strain the finished product and dilute 1 tbsp. to a bucket of water. Such treatment is carried out in the morning and in the evening.

Watering for radish diseases. In addition to insects that attack radishes, they can also be susceptible to various diseases associated with improper care, climatic characteristics or other reasons.

white rust- a fungal disease most commonly found in radishes. Sharp cold snaps, an abundance of weeds or post-harvest plant residues contribute to the onset of the disease. To combat it, antifungal drugs, chemical or organic, fungicides are used. They spray the plant at the first sign of illness.

quila another disease in which growths appear on the roots of the radish, as the disease progresses, they begin to darken, and then the fruit itself rots. Kila develops rapidly with prolonged stagnation of water. A good result in the fight against it, gives a lime mortar. To do this, 2 cups of lime are stirred in a bucket of water and the plants are watered, at the rate of 1 liter per 1 root crop.

powdery mildew found quite often among all vegetable crops. On the leaves you can see a plaque that darkens over time, the leaves wither and dry. In this case, you can use fungicides or Bordeaux mixture. To prepare it, they take 100 g of copper sulfate and dissolve it in a bucket of water, do the same with lime, then both solutions are gently mixed and the plant is treated.

If you follow the rules of planting and care, throughout the season, radishes will delight the whole family with their appearance and pleasant taste.