April rose care

In central Russia, it is in April that winter shelters are removed from roses and the gardener's first meeting with his favorite flowers after a long winter. And here the most important thing is not to rush with the opening, but also not to be late.

When to open roses? It depends on the weather. First of all, a stable positive daily temperature should be established. At this time, the snow, which in winter was a reliable shelter for the rose from frost, ceases to help the plant. Roses wake up very early, and wet, packed snow prevents sunlight and fresh air from entering. In a short time, remarkably overwintered roses can rot. Therefore, you need to dump the rest of the snow from shelters. Already in March, if the temperature during the day is usually positive, in air-dry shelters at this time we will definitely open the ends. If it’s warm, then it’s cold, you need to air the roses, and then cover them again, leaving vents. Or, if March was cold, we do it in April. Roses are more likely to rot than freeze. And this happens precisely in the spring, when we remove shelters at the wrong time.

We remove shelters from roses in stages to avoid temperature differences and sunburn. As soon as the weather allows (the signal for this is the thawing of the soil to a depth of 15-20 cm), we remove the top layer from the roses covered with spandbond layers, leaving only the bottom one. If the roses were piled up, covered with sawdust or spruce branches, it is necessary to loosen the top caked layer to provide air access to the roses. Toward the end of April, if severe frosts are not expected, we remove the shelter completely, again, here you need to be guided by the weather. Perhaps it is better to leave the roses covered for the May holidays. To avoid sunburn, roses should be shaded immediately after opening. And it is better to completely remove shelter from the bushes not on a sunny day, but on a cloudy one.

Roses covered only with spruce branches, sawdust or boxes must be opened as the soil thaws.

Immediately after thawing - unwind and loosen - ensure air flow to the roots.

Many rose growers, as a preventive measure, immediately after removing the shelter, treat the bushes with copper-containing preparations.

Now you can start cosmetic pruning roses. First, dry, broken, frozen or damaged shoots are cut out. Very often there are frost cracks (cracks) on the shoots, which appear as a result of freezing of water that has fallen into cracks and scratches in the bark. If the frost holes are large and close to the grafting site, then such affected shoots must be removed to the ring.

If the roses at this time did not ventilate on time and were late with the removal of shelters, then from excess moisture they very often shoots are affected by an infectious burn.

Affected shoots must be cut to healthy tissue to prevent the spread of infection. Not removed affected shoots dry out and die. Removal of all weak, diseased, thin and dead shoots helps to ensure good air exchange and illumination of the rose bush, which in turn minimizes the risks of developing fungal diseases on the bush.

Small frost cracks need to be treated - wash the crack with a brush with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or 1% solution of copper sulfate, smear with pitch, then you can seal it with a strip of medical plaster. Otherwise, such frost holes turn into foci of infection with spores of various fungal diseases.

In those who are weakly affected by an infectious burn, you can not cut off the shoot, but clean the site of the lesion with a sharp garden knife to a healthy tissue, then grease it with gruel from crushed garlic cloves, and then seal this place with a strip of medical plaster.

After all these operations, you can start pruning roses, following all the rules in accordance with the variety belonging to a particular group.

After pruning, you can feed the roses with nitrogen-containing fertilizers for the first time. It is best to take ammonium nitrate (the ammonium form of nitrogen is absorbed faster than nitrate) or any other complete mineral fertilizer with a high nitrogen content (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). Since the ground is still cold in early spring, it is very good to shed the soil around the plants with hot water several times before fertilizing, so that the ground warms up and the suction roots work well.

Fertilizers are best applied in liquid form - 3-4 liters for each bush. You can pour the above dry fertilizers (40 g per 1 sq.m.) under the bushes, followed by incorporation into the soil. We also lay out organic matter under the bushes. In any case, before and after top dressing, the earth must be shed abundantly with water so that the fertilizer dissolves.

Here, too, there is a subtlety. If the weather is cold in spring and the temperature does not rise above 5C, the plants stop growing, and their stems and leaves may become deformed. Feeding the plant in such conditions is pointless and even harmful. Wait for warm nights to set in (+10-15C).

We tie high scars to supports, carefully distribute climbing roses over arches and pergolas.

Rose Care in May

In early May, if the weather did not allow all the above operations with roses to be completed, then we complete them.

We monitor the progress of the kidneys. If at once 2-3 buds appeared from the internode, we leave the central or the strongest one, and remove the rest. We loosen the top layer of soil that has compacted over the winter under the bushes.

In the middle of the month, during the period of shoot growth, we feed roses with complex mineral fertilizer. It is even more effective to combine mineral top dressing with organic. To do this, 1 part of mullein is diluted in 8-10 parts of water, infused for 5-8 days, diluted by half before use. 3-5 liters of mullein infusion are poured under the bush.

It should be remembered that mineral and organic fertilizers complement each other. First, food comes from mineral fertilizers, which are quickly absorbed (under favorable weather conditions). Organic fertilizers are absorbed by plants gradually, as they decompose, and help create favorable conditions for more efficient use of mineral fertilizers.

At the end of May, we do the first preventive treatment of roses and the soil under them from fungal diseases. If pests or diseases appear, diseased parts of plants should be immediately cut and burned. In case of damage by pests, pollination or spraying should be carried out.

If the roses overwintered badly and did not start growing, in no case do we dig them up and throw them away. They can wake up very late, not until the end of May or even the beginning of June. Sleeping buds remain in stock in the graft, but they are waiting for a favorable opportunity for a long time.

Remove weeds regularly. It is also necessary to cut off the shoots growing from the stock (wild ones differ from cultivated ones in a lighter color of leaves and stems, a large number of thorns and small leaves).

May is the best month for planting roses.

Rose care in summer

Rose care in June

The first roses bloom in June.

We constantly monitor their health and the appearance of pests. If, after warm days, cold damp matinees are issued, we prophylactically process the bushes a second time from fungal diseases. In the middle of the month, to strengthen immunity, you can feed roses on a leaf. In the sun for two weeks we insist a mixture of horsetail, nettle, celandine. We filter the sourdough, dilute the infusion with water 1:10 and spill the bushes with our heads. You can repeat feeding on the sheet every two weeks, alternating herbs - nettle, chamomile, dandelions, calendula. It is useful to add humates to the mixture. Good ash to prevent fungal diseases. Two glasses of ash are poured with one liter of hot water, boiled for 15 minutes, insisted, filtered, diluted with water and sprayed with bushes. You can powder the bushes with ashes early in the morning, and wash it off after two days.

With a massive invasion of pests, we spray the roses with a systemic preparation. During the budding period, we carry out the third top dressing: 1 tablespoon of calcium nitrate per 10 liters of water and spill the bush so that the flowers are brighter and last longer. You can make a complex fertilizer plus an infusion of mullein or an infusion of bird droppings (litter is poured with water 1:20, infused for 3-8 days, then diluted in a ratio of 1 part of the solution to 3 parts of water).

If the weather is dry and hot, it is better to mulch the soil under the bushes to protect it from overheating and drying out. As mulch we use tree bark, chips, mowed grass, chopped plant branches. If there is little rainfall, water the roses at least once a week. In case of severe dryness of the air and the absence of precipitation, we carry out sprinkling 1-2 times a week to avoid damage by spider mites. Timely remove weeds from the near-trunk circle.

In the middle of the month, we remove weak shoots, wild animals, as well as blind shoots that have not laid buds. As soon as the roses bloom, we stop feeding.

In order for roses to bloom longer and look better, flowers should be removed immediately after flowering. In re-blooming roses, inflorescences and single flowers need to be cut off so that buds reappear on them.

Rose care in July

July is the month of abundant rose blooms. We continue to remove faded buds. The correct cut is made above the kidney, sitting in the axil of the first cinquefoil, the shamrocks are skipped. If the pedicels are not removed in time, then seeds will begin to set, which will take the strength of the rose to the detriment of secondary flowering and growth.

Blooming roses do not feed, it speeds up flowering.

After the first flowering and pruning of inflorescences, we give the roses the last nitrogen and complex top dressing. We continue to water abundantly, especially if it is dry and hot. It is useful to continue the June feeding on a leaf of herbs. Shoots that have reached a height of 1 m are tied to a support in order to avoid breakage by the wind. We follow the sprouts from vaccinations, remove the wilds if they are from the stock.

We closely monitor the manifestation of diseases, especially after cool rainy days. At the first symptoms of black spot or powdery mildew, we cut off diseased leaves, and treat the bushes with a fungicide.

July is the best time for rooting rose cuttings. The young shoot is cut off immediately after the first flowering, until the lateral buds start growing.

Rose care in August

August is the month of re-blooming of roses. Flowers appear both on old, already flourishing shoots, and on young, new ones that have grown from vaccination.

The young shoots that appeared in the second half of summer are considered the most valuable, since they are the strongest and most powerful, they will form the future basis of the bush. Therefore, we monitor their growth throughout the month, in no case do we shorten them until flowering, even if they are 2 times longer than the rest. The exceptions are hybrid tea roses and floribundas. If such a shoot began to grow in them in the second half of the month, then it is advisable to remove it immediately so that the rose does not spend extra energy on growing it, since it will not have time to bloom and ripen before winter. In climbing multi-flowered roses and staffs, we leave all the shoots without a time limit for their appearance. At Rambler roses, we cut out completely faded shoots.

We continue potassium-phosphorus top dressing, nitrogen is completely excluded. At the end of the month, we stop cutting the faded inflorescences, allowing the seeds to set, this contributes to the ripening of the shoots.

If the month is dry and hot, we continue to intensively water the bushes. August is the month of the greatest rampant fungal diseases. Keep preparations ready for treatment . For the prevention of this outrage, foliar top dressing with ash is very good. To do this, pour two glasses of ash with hot water, boil for 10-15 minutes, insist, filter. Dilute in 10 liters of water. Before spraying, you can add 1 tablet of microfertilizers.

When applying fertilizer, you should always take into account the specific conditions and soil conditions in your area. Fertilizers need to be applied less and less often in dry summers. In rainy summers, when nutrients are easily washed out, feed more often, and the recommended doses can be slightly increased.

During transplantation, pruning, cutting flowers, cold snap or drought, it is very useful to spray roses with epin antidepressant (1 ampoule per 5 liters of water).

Rose care in autumn

Rose Care in September

In September, we begin to prepare roses for winter. We stop any top dressing and processing, as well as all sorts of pruning. All efforts are directed to the ripening of shoots. We do not cut the faded inflorescences, but only remove the petals, the set fruits contribute to the ripening of the shoots.

We immediately remove the young shoots that appear, they will not have time to ripen, but will only take away the strength of the rose. Older growing shoots are better to pinch lightly at the top to stop their growth. While the shoot is growing, all the nutrients are concentrated at the point of its growth. And we need them to spread now throughout the shoot, then, being stronger, it will more easily endure the winter. Small, green buds are also best removed, they will not have time to bloom before frost. We leave only large, already colored buds.

It is advisable not to cut roses into bouquets at this time. On the cut shoot, the buds below the cut will immediately wake up, young shoots will appear that will no longer ripen, but will take away the strength of the rose.

At the end of the month, starting from the bottom of the bush, we remove up to a third of the foliage mass, bend the young shoots to the ground and fix them until they are woody. Carefully rake and burn fallen leaves.

The second half of September is the best time to transplant roses. In this case, the rose should immediately be cut off as under cover. If transplanted earlier, then the rose can start growing, if in October, then with early frosts, it will not have time to take root and will not winter well.

Rose care in October

The main thing in October is to cover the roses before frost. At the beginning of the month, we pinch the tops of the shoots that have grown at this point. We remove the foliage and cut off unflowered buds, the exceptions are large ground cover roses. We sweep the leaves from under the bushes and burn them. To prevent fungal diseases, we treat the bushes with a 3% solution of iron sulfate.

Before shelter, we cut out unripened shoots from all hybrid tea roses and floribunda, and cut their tips from climbing and staffs. All shoots that bend, bend and fix. Rigid varieties are either bent in several steps, or cut to the height of the shelter.

We arrange arcs or supports and in dry weather we cover the roses with lutrasil. If its density is from 60 gr. per sq. m, then this is the final version of the shelter. During the late autumn rains, we throw a plastic film on a thinner material so that its edges do not reach the ground, and the ends are open to avoid condensation. With the advent of frost, we remove the film.

Winter-hardy varieties of roses with the onset of frost can simply be covered with spruce branches, sawdust or boxes.

The rose is a versatile flower that is not only suitable for decorating any event, but also pleases us with its color on weekdays. In the latter case, we mean home (garden) roses, which often decorate the territory of private estates. However, the question "How to plant a rose?" continues to excite many gardeners. Is growing roses really such a difficult job? Let's figure it out.

Rules for planting the "Queen of the Garden"

"Queen of the Garden" namely, this is how they called the rose - it is a rather unpretentious plant, which in terms of care is not much different from other flowers. Although it still has its own characteristics in growing.

How to choose seedlings for planting

When choosing seedlings for the future decoration of your garden, it is better to pay attention to grafted specimens. They are characterized by a more powerful and developed root system, excellent frost resistance, good survival rate and a large number of flowers on the bushes. Grafted seedlings are less susceptible to disease.

In caring for such a plant, you will have to spend more time, since grafted roses require the mandatory removal of wild shoots (over time, it can turn a beautiful flower into an ordinary wild rose, since in most cases all cultivars are grafted from it). Own-rooted plants do not need such actions.

Did you know? In England, Iran and the United States, the rose is considered the national flower.

Based on the appearance of seedlings, then on sale you can find samples with both open and closed root systems (placed in containers or with a peat clod on the roots). It is best to give preference to a closed root system: when planting a plant, the roots will be less damaged and grow faster.

When choosing rose seedlings, do not forget to pay attention to their foliage. It should not be sluggish or dry. The shoots of the plant should also be strong and not have cracks or spots. The number of shoots on a good seedling cannot be less than 3.

When buying a plant with an open root system, you will have a chance inspect the roots and determine their condition. And in this case, there should be no damage.

If the selected seedling does not meet the specified requirements, then roses with such features will not be able to become a worthy decoration of your yard.

Choosing a landing site, what should be the lighting and temperature

Roses love the sun, so when choosing a suitable place for growing in the garden, it is recommended to pay attention to sunny areas. Being in the shade, roses stop blooming, dark spots appear on their leaves and blind shoots form. Often the plant is affected by powdery mildew. To avoid this, you need to choose a bright, well-ventilated area that will be protected from a strong north wind.

As for the characteristics of the soil, it should not be clay or sandy loam, and all other options are quite acceptable. It is also worth paying attention to the fact that the chosen landing site is away from groundwater, which comes close to the surface.

Before answering the question "How to plant roses?" you need to find out exactly when you can land. Shrubs are planted 2 times a year: in spring and autumn (before frost). Autumn planting is preferred, since until spring all plants have time to take root well and bloom earlier than roses that were planted in spring.

In the middle latitude, autumn planting is carried out mid-September to mid-October and if you plant seedlings earlier, then there is a high probability of awakening dormant buds, which will immediately die with the onset of cold weather.

Too late planting is also considered unfavorable, since the seedlings may not have time to take root and will also suffer from frost. If you “guessed” with the planting dates, after 10-12 days new young roots will begin to appear at the seedling, which will have time to adapt before the onset of frost and calmly survive the cold winter.

In the spring (if roses were planted in autumn), such plants begin to rapidly form the root and aerial parts, and flowering occurs along with old, perennial bushes. At the same time, the flowers that were planted in the spring, on average bloom 2 weeks later and require more attention.

Before planting a plant, the soil must be properly prepared by feeding it with mineral and organic fertilizers. Of the organic options, manure is the best solution, and the first top dressing with complex mineral fertilizer should be thorough, but not more than 15-20 g per bush (a large dose will adversely affect the flowers).

If spring planting is provided, then in the fall it will be necessary to dig a spacious hole up to 1.2 m deep and half a meter in diameter. It is filled with drainage (branches, large gravel, expanded clay are suitable), and a mixture of garden soil and humus is laid on top, adding mineral fertilizers along the way. When planting roses in autumn, pits for bushes are prepared in 1-1.5 months.

How to plant a rose

Planting roses begins with choosing seedlings and digging a hole in a suitable location. We have already dealt with the first point, and as for the second, then the hole in the ground should be of such size that the roots of the rose feel free. If we are talking about fertile soils, then half a meter of depth and the same width will be quite enough. For clay soil, which must be pre-fertilized (humus or compost is mixed with rotted manure and soil), with the same width of the pit, it is necessary to dig to a depth of 60-70 cm.

Important! Fertilizers should not come into contact with the roots of seedlings, so they are sprinkled with a layer of soil.

Before placing the seedling in the hole, you need to pour water into it and wait until it is absorbed. Then a rose with a closed root system is immediately placed in the soil, and if the roots are open, then they will have to be cut to a third of the length and soaked in water (or a root growth stimulator) for several hours.

Given the size of the bush of a particular species and the rate of its growth, when planting plants, it is recommended to observe a certain interval (from 0.5 m to 1 m). However, the distance between the bushes can be determined independently, based on specific goals. For example, spray roses will look great not only in general, but also in single plantings. In the rose garden, it is necessary to observe a distance from a meter to one and a half (or 1.2 m) from a neighboring plant.

How to care for a rose in the garden

Usually roses do not require special attention, but this does not mean that proper planting and care are not important for these flowers.

How to water a rose

Caring for roses in the garden involves abundant, but infrequent watering. The ground under the bushes should not dry out, and the first sign that your rose needs water is withered flowers and leaves of the plant. Usually, an average rose bush needs about 5 liters of liquid, and a climbing plant needs 15 liters.

The water used for irrigation should not contain chlorine or be too cold, because for the normal life support of the bush, it must be watered with water slightly heated in the sun. The larger the bush becomes (roses are constantly growing and forming), the more water will go to watering.

Flower feeding rules

If you grow roses, then you probably know that caring for them and growing them in the garden require periodic fertilization of the soil. In this plan it is better to give preference to natural top dressing - manure. The ideal option is horse manure, which has at least six months of aging. The waste products of chickens or pigs (especially when fresh) can only harm plants: because of the acid contained in them, young shoots will simply burn out. Fresh manure is also bad for the soil, blocking nitrogen.

In the process of the appearance of buds, it is necessary to feed the plant with a solution of calcium nitrate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), and during the period of active growth and development of the rose, it must be watered every 10-15 days with an infusion of herbs, a solution of mineral fertilizers, infused mullein or chicken droppings . In order for the plant to better perceive the applied top dressing (for example, mineral fertilizers), it must be applied in dissolved form, immediately after the next watering. In the second part of July, roses stop feeding. Bushes begin to prepare for the cold.

Did you know? Like people, roses are also able to survive stress. In this state, they are in a period of extreme heat, cold or prolonged rains. Help survivethey can do this time by spraying the plant with "Zircon", "Epin", "Ekosil" or sodium humate.

How to prune a rose

It is very important for roses to form a bush with the help of mechanical action, this is especially true when caring for a plant in open ground. Pruning is carried out by removing all damaged and weak branches, as well as those that are directed into the thick of the bush. After that, it is more clear how to further form a bush.

Important! It is necessary to prune a rose before buds swell on its branches. Ifsametwo branches interfere with each other, then the one that is located more successfully should be left. Also, preference is given to a younger shoot with a light bark.

When growing a grafted plant, you will inevitably encounter many extra shoots sprouting at the base of the bush (this happens in the spring). These shoots take away a lot of strength from the plant, which means that there are practically none left for lush flowering. That's why you need to leave only the most powerful, strong and tall of them, which in the summer will be able to give flowers. Everything else can be easily trimmed.

Pruning of roses after flowering is carried out at the gardener's own request, but during the procedure it is necessary to leave at least two buds on the shoots. No need to be afraid to perform this procedure: after a haircut, the rose is more actively overgrown with new greenery. Care should be taken only with a rose that does not restore its shape so quickly or the soil under it is too poor.

With the onset of autumn, all wilted flowers and damaged shoots are removed from the bush. All sections are immediately treated with garden pitch.

plant transplant method

In some cases, plant care also includes replanting the rose to a new location. However, first you need to make sure that the growing conditions in the new place will not differ from the previous ones: the rose will be able to receive enough sunlight and will be protected from the wind. If everything is in order with this, then we proceed to the preparation of the pit, filling it according to the requirements of the plant.

First of all, remove all weed roots from the chosen place. Then, leave the hole for a couple of days - the earth should settle. After that, it will be possible to proceed to digging a bush. You need to try to dig a rose with as large an earthy lump as possible. This is a rather difficult task, since the ground under the rose gardens is very loose and crumbles easily. Therefore, before digging, in order to better hold the earth, it should be watered, and to facilitate work near the bush, it is tied.

Important! Dealing with a large rose bush is quite difficult, so it's best to ask for help right away.

Having prepared a new pit for transplanting a plant, you must perform the following steps:
If the earth turned out to be too loose, and you failed to save the clod, then after digging up the plant, inspect all the roots well - damaged ones must be removed.

It happens that the rose "does not notice" the transplant and immediately takes root in a new place, but most often, especially when transplanted in spring or summer, the rose will take a long time to recover. Roses are quite tenacious, therefore, both care under standard conditions and their transplantation is a time-consuming, but not dangerous process for roses.

How to prepare a rose for winter

They begin to prepare a rose for winter in the middle of summer, stopping feeding the bushes with nitrogen fertilizers (at this time, the roses get potash and phosphorus baits). From mid-September, faded inflorescences are cut off, allowing the rose to fade before wintering. Many gardeners are interested in the question: Should garden flowers be cut in autumn? This is not required, but in some cases pruning the shoots makes it easier to cover the plants.

In hybrid tea species, ½ of the height of old branches is shortened in autumn, while park roses and scrubs are shortened by only 1/3 of their height. Climbing, miniature and ground cover species are not pruned, trying to cover them along their entire length.

Before sheltering garden roses, they cut off all the leaves and inflorescences, since under the snow cover they can become a source of fungal diseases. In addition, pests often persist on the reverse side of the leaves. To destroy them before covering the plants with a film, the bush and the soil under it should be treated with a 5% solution of copper sulphate. Like caring for roses, preparing plants for winter will not take you much time and effort, the main thing is to carry out all the described activities on time.

How to propagate roses

There are not many ways to propagate roses, however, the desire of gardeners to have as many of these wonderful flowers on their site as possible makes them thoroughly study each method. Let's take a look at each of them.

cuttings

The propagation method of garden roses by cuttings is good because established plants will not produce wild shoots. The stalk is part of a strong shoot, and it is cut next to the leaf bud. After germination using root stimulants, when roots appear on the cutting, you get a ready-made seedling that can be transferred to the ground.

Propagation of roses by cuttings provides for the rooting of two types of stem shoots: lignified And semi-lignified and is most often used for breeding room or park roses. Basically, the cuttings are cut when the green shoots of roses begin to become stiff (at the beginning of the flowering of the bush), but too lignified specimens are not suitable for this role.

seeds

Propagation of roses by seeds is rare. Firstly, the result has to wait a long time, and secondly, n and you can never be completely sure that it will turn out to be positive. Seed germination during propagation of roses leaves much to be desired.

Did you know?Usually, the seed method of propagating flowers is used when breeding new varieties of roses or hybrids. He practices forbreedingwild roses, although not all species produce full-fledged seeds.

Rose budding

Rose budding involves the following steps. On the bark of the plant stem (as close as possible to the ground level), it is necessary to make a T-shaped incision and insert the bud of the selected cultivar into it. After that, it is fixed with a film. The scion can use the developed root system of the stock. The operation itself is simple, although it requires some experience.

Reproduction by layering

Climbing and shrub roses, which are mainly found in gardens, are propagated by layering. This method is considered the most suitable, largely due to the fact that such plants have long and strong stems.

The shoot of the rose is cut in the lower part (by ring cuts in the bark), after which a match or a sliver is inserted into the cut. The cut part of the shoot is placed in a pre-dug shallow groove in the ground and fixed there. The free end must be tied to a pre-driven peg. From above, the shoot is sprinkled with earth (the top should remain outside).

If you want to have roses in your garden, but you are afraid of stories about how difficult they are to care for, how difficult agricultural technology is, how poorly they withstand wintering - you can be sure that these fears are greatly exaggerated. In fact, caring for plants of unearthly beauty is easy and pleasant. The main thing is to know how.

Rose pruning and care

After the onset of the first spring warmth, the roses are released from the winter shelter and proceed to pruning.

1. First, dried, damaged branches and dead ends are removed (when dying, the shoots become brown to the core). Weak and diseased branches are pruned in order to provide the flowers with good illumination and air exchange - this will protect them from infection with fungal diseases;
2. After careful examination, three shoots with strong, healthy buds are selected;
3. Cut the selected branches with an oblique cut to the strongest bud;
4. Remove all shoots growing inside the bush;
5. They form a beautiful crown with a bare center;
6. After circumcision, they are sprayed with copper sulfate (diluted at the rate of 100 grams per bucket of warm water);
7. With possible frosts - cover with a film.

The degree of pruning must be carried out, taking into account the following factors:

• climate (in cold areas, roses are cut less - they do not grow much);
• landing site (foreground or background);
• plant species;
• the height of the colors you prefer.

Pruning different types of roses

Depending on which variety of rose you prefer, the method of pruning and the size of the stem to be shortened are chosen.

Tea hybrid and flower beds

Pruning begins with the identification of damaged, weakened stems. Dead ends are removed with an oblique cut to the first dormant bud, leaving 3-8 stems. They are cut off, counting the fourth or sixth kidney from the ground. After that, the remaining young shoots will develop evenly.

Standard

Weak, dry and damaged branches are cut out in April. The remaining stems are shortened to three or five of the strongest shoots. Each of them should have six to eight healthy kidneys.

The branches are made shorter by one half, and the side ones by two thirds, leaving three to five buds (if the height of such a sprout is 30 centimeters, it is cut by 10 cm). With a process height of 120 centimeters, it is shortened by 30-60 centimeters. The weeping appearance of the standard flower is only thinned out.

shrubby

They are single and multiple blooming. The first ones are not cut at all, only slightly thinned out. In the second, young stems are left, which are cut off by one third, old ones are cut out.

Climbing

They are divided, like shrubs, into single and multiple flowering. The first thin out immediately after flowering. Flowers appear on young roses, so they are not touched in the spring. After pruning, the branches are tied back to the support. Repeatedly blooming cut along the side shoots up to two or four buds, without touching the main long branches.

Note:

Pruning a rose is done with sharp garden shears, pruning shears (for example, LIST "OK, BISON" EXPERT ") so that the cut is even, smooth. Due to torn edges, infection can get into the shoot. For too thick branches, loppers or garden saws are used (for example, Palisad).

Branches are cut 0.6 - 0.7 centimeters above the developed bud, growing on the outside of the bush, and not inside. A cut made above can contribute to the death of the wood.

Rose care in spring. Fertilization

To be able to enjoy the delicate aroma and beautiful view of roses in your garden, you definitely need to know what and how this plant is fertilized and fed. After all, its health and beauty largely depends on what it eats. Fertilizers (tuki) are mineral and organic. They can be used separately or combined.

Mineral fertilizers for the care of roses in spring

They can be bought in ordinary or specialized stores. Such fertilizers are both liquid and in granules ("Rose"). They start feeding six weeks before frost, using 150 grams per bush monthly. Fish supplements (emulsion and flour), seaweed extract, alfalfa flour with a growth stimulator are also well known.

Organic rose care products in spring

Organic water solutions are most suitable for feeding roses. They not only nourish the plant, but also improve the structure of the earth. They are brought in by the end of the summer. The most famous organic substances are chicken manure, mullein. They contain all the elements necessary for roses: phosphorus, potassium, nitrogen.

Chicken manure fertilizer is produced in many ways. Here is one of the simplest and most effective:

• Litter along with bedding (for example, coconut fiber) is poured under each rose bush in a bucket per season;
• It is better to lay out such fertilizer little by little (one scoop) daily;
• From above it can be mulched;
• It is important to remember that fresh chicken manure can burn the roots of the plant. Therefore, it is better not to bring it deep into the ground, but to scatter it from above.

You should also know that roses love water. It is best to keep the ground constantly loose and moist. Mulch will help you with this.

Rose care, when and how to feed

It is important to know that in the first year (as well as during flowering), the rose is not fed.

Stage one

Fertilizers are applied for the first time at the end of April of the second year of the plant's life, before the shoots begin to grow, after pruning. It is desirable to carry out this top dressing with nitrogen fertilizers, urea, or ammonium nitrate - a tablespoon per one bucket of water.

Of the mineral - suitable "Gloria for roses", "Kemira" (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). Complex top dressing can be carried out with such a mixture: 1 tbsp. "Agricola Rosa" and 1 tbsp. urea - 3 liters per bush.

Stage two

The second feeding occurs at the beginning of shoot growth, when the air temperature reaches +10 degrees. Experienced gardeners and rose lovers, for example, often use a high-quality Toprose fertilizer (from Bayer), which contains elements such as potassium, phosphorus, magnesium and nitrogen. Distribute it on the soil around the rose and cultivate the land with a chopper. One bush needs 28 g. Or potassium sulfate and superphosphate: one spoon per 3 liters of the mixture.

Stage three

During budding. Such fertilizers help well: "Agricola Rosa" and potassium sulfate (1 tbsp each) plus nitrophoska (2 tbsp) for 10 liters of water - 3 liters per bush. Or: potassium sulfate and magnesium sulfate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

Fourth and fifth fertilization stage

After the first flowers During this period, roses need potassium and phosphorus. For example, 1 tablespoon per bucket of Kemira universal water. From organic - chicken manure, mullein. About 5 liters per rose.

Fifth - after the 2nd flowering (end of July). We use any organic fertilizers, in two weeks - potassium-phosphorus. And so until the end of the summer every three weeks. At this, top dressing must be stopped so that young shoots do not begin to appear for the winter.

After feeding or pruning, the plants are mulched. This is a very necessary and important part in the care of roses in the spring, which helps them develop properly and resist various diseases.

Mulching:

• does not allow moisture to evaporate quickly;
• on hot days, it cools the soil temperature by a couple of degrees;
• does not allow the top layer of soil to be compacted;
• helps to keep minerals in the earth;
• protects roots;
• prevents the appearance of pests and diseases;
• good effect on the appearance of roses;
• prevents the growth and development of weeds.

Mulching is a fairly easy and simple process that can be done, regardless of the time of year. But it is best to repeat it twice a year: in early spring and late summer.

It is done like this:

1. The soil around the bushes is carefully weeded;
2. Mulch, 4-6 centimeters thick, evenly cover the soil, making sure not to cover the base of the plant stem;
3. When this layer becomes humus, it is carefully mixed with the top layer of the earth;
4. Place another layer of mulch on top.

Mulching agrofibre (Agrospan) can be purchased in stores or made at home from pieces of cardboard, sawdust, dry grass, wood chips, chopped bark, hay.

Compost is the best home remedy. It is made from various components, for example, coffee grounds or food waste (if they contain fruits, vegetables, you need to make sure that there are no seeds), as well as newspaper scraps, dried leaves (the main thing is to make sure that these components do not contain harmful substances) . All this is mixed, left to rot and laid out near the roses.

A universal remedy is manure or chicken droppings. It is used as a fertilizer and as a mulch. In the latter, it is used in a dried form. The only drawback is that in such a tool there may be seeds of other plants, which, while growing, will interfere with the development of roses. Therefore, it is carefully examined.

Pests, diseases. Fighting methods

Roses, like other plants, are attacked by pests and diseases. This can result in injury or even death. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to pay due attention to the problem and treat it in a timely manner, as well as to do prevention without fail. Don't forget about your own safety. When carrying out procedures, use protective equipment: rubber gloves, respirators. After the event, thoroughly wash your face and hands with soap.

Prevention

To prevent damage, immediately after the active start of rose growth, it must be sprayed with a fungicide or insecticide, for example, RoseClear. It is better to carry out such preventive actions every 10-15 days, choosing windless, dry evenings for this.

Pests and methods of dealing with them

These small insects are especially dangerous during the development of buds, shoots, leaves and flowers. It is then that the plants become food for the larvae and need protection most of all. Consider the most famous pests, as well as methods of dealing with them.

rose aphid

Hunts in huge colonies. It settles on the lower part of the leaf, buds. Its larvae are practically invisible. They reproduce very quickly; in one growing season they can produce 2 million larvae. Rosan aphid harms plants by sucking their juice. In this case, the flower is disfigured, bent, weakened. May die in winter.

Fighting methods:

• Karbofos (60 g per 10 l of water);
• kerosene (2 g per 10 liters of water) - every 10-13 days;
• Spark (10 g per 10 liters of water);
• Fitoverm (2 ml per 1 liter of water).

spider mite

Appears in summer in hot and dry weather. The female produces about 180 eggs. The spider mite settles on the lower part of the leaves, sucking the juice from the plant and causing a metabolic disorder. Leaves turn yellow and fall off.

Control measures: Agrovertin, Fitoverm (2 ml per 1 liter of water) every 10-20 days, it is enough for 10 square meters of area. Colloidal sulfur (40 g per 10 liters of water) - one liter is enough for five rose bushes.

leaf rollers

They appear in early spring. Leaf rolling caterpillars gnaw the leaves along the edges and fold them, gradually exposing the entire bush.

Methods of struggle: Spark (1 tablet per 10 liters of water) - enough for 50 square meters of area. You can also collect insects with your hands.

Click Beetles

They are found in areas infected with wheatgrass. Nutcrackers eat the stems of the rose bush and its roots.

Methods of struggle: Bazudin (15-20 grams per 15 square meters) is laid out on the ground near the bushes.

Deer and bronze

They live from May to August. Females lay eggs in the ground, and beetles appear in summer. They feed on flowers and pistils of roses.

Methods for dealing with bronzovka: in the early morning, when they are motionless, they can be collected.

Diseases and methods of dealing with them

Roses most often begin to get sick from adverse conditions, such as lack of moisture, nutrition, light, an excess of nitrogen in the soil. Also, infection can occur from the leaves of diseased plants that remain on the site. Below are the main, most dangerous diseases and methods of dealing with them.

powdery mildew

Starts in the middle of summer. It spreads very quickly between bushes. Such a disease looks like a white coating on buds and shoots. Subsequently, infected plants become deformed and dry out. Contribute to the appearance of powdery mildew excessive moisture, lack of lime, oversaturation of the soil with nitrogen.

Methods of struggle: the affected parts are cut off, removed. The earth is being dug up. Bushes are treated from the beginning of spring with copper sulfate (100 grams per 10 liters of water). Seeing signs of the appearance of powdery mildew, the rose can be sprayed with: Topaz (4 ml per 10 liters of water), Quick (2 milliliters per 10 liters of water), Colloidal gray (40 g per 5 liters of water).

Rust

Spread by spores. Orange cushions become visible on the foliage and shoots of roses. The most resistant to this disease are climbing, hybrid, polyanthus varieties; less resistant - remontant and red-leaved roses.

Rust control methods: Hom (40 grams per 10 liters of water) - sprayed on a hundred square meters. Soap solution for spraying is prepared as follows: 300 grams of soap is diluted in ten liters of hot water, cooled, sprayed with a pump. Sick roses are uprooted and burned.

Chlorosis

This is an iron deficiency, often manifested in alkaline, neutral and calcium-rich soils. The leaves of infected plants first turn yellow at the edges (especially young ones), and a green stripe remains near the veins. Later they become white, die off and fall off.

Control methods: Kemira Universal 2 (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) - 2-3 times to apply to the ground. Ferrilen, Ferovit, Iron chelate, Antichlorosis are also used. Iron chelate can be prepared at home: 20 grams of ascorbic acid and 10 grams of copper sulfate are dissolved in one liter of boiled and chilled water.

Outcome

A rose is a pearl and a wonderful decoration for any garden. Knowing all about pest control methods and providing appropriate care, your site will become the most beautiful one that your neighbors will envy. Feed your roses well, prune them according to our tips and enjoy the perfect scent and look of the flowers.

Many flower growers, first of all, are guided by the advice of their friends on how to care for roses, and in the process they make common mistakes. But in order for the garden rose to develop correctly and bloom beautifully, care for this royal flower should be carried out on the basis of professional recommendations.

Caring for young roses after planting

From the article you will learn how to properly care for roses, starting from the very first year, what procedures need to be performed at different times of the year, and how pruning different types of roses differs.

Immediately after the rose seedlings have been planted, it is necessary to provide them with regular abundant watering in the evening or morning. It should be watered carefully under the root of the seedling, avoiding the erosion of the roots and the ingress of water on the aerial part. Daily watering is carried out until the plant is fully rooted, then it is enough to water once a week.

Video about caring for roses after winter

Very carefully every month you need to loosen the ground under the bush, trying not to damage the fragile root system. With the onset of cold weather, the soil around the rose is compacted.

When planting roses in spring, pruning of seedlings is done in advance, and in the case of planting in autumn, the shoots are cut off next spring, leaving about five of the strongest. Climbing roses do not need pruning.

In the first summer, all buds are removed from the rose bush so that the plant develops properly, otherwise the rose simply will not be able to fully provide itself with all the necessary substances. Only when cutting buds do not remove the leaves - they will still be useful for the plant for photosynthesis. And make sure that pests do not appear on the leaves.

In the first summer, all buds are removed from the rose bush so that the plant develops properly.

How to care for adult roses at different times of the year

Spring

Early spring is well suited for, while the soil is prepared from autumn or at least a month before transplanting. Planted bushes before bud break are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid in order to protect roses from fungal diseases.

In April, roses are pruned, removing all blackened and broken shoots to a strong live bud. Also during spring pruning, attention is paid to the formation of a symmetrical beautiful bush. All sections are smeared with garden pitch.

In April, roses are pruned, removing all blackened and broken shoots to a strong living bud.

Pruning different types of roses:

• It is imperative to prune hybrid tea roses (almost all varieties) annually, as they bloom on growths formed in the current year. With strong pruning, all old shoots are removed, medium branches are cut in half, and young ones - up to three to five buds.
• Varieties of floribunda roses also form flowers on young shoots. Abundant flowering gives combined pruning. The bush in the first year is cut into three to five buds, and later annual shoots are shortened by a third of the length. Three-year-old branches are completely cut off.
• Climbing large-flowered roses bloom on last year's growth, and therefore only five-year-old branches should be removed. Faded shoots in the summer are cut to the nearest leaf.
• Ramblers bloom once on shoots that have successfully endured frost. Pruning is done on the ring as soon as the roses fade. Old shoots need to be cut off so that they do not reduce the flowering of the bush.
• Shrubs also bloom on the shoots of the current year. Annual shoots are cut by a third and be sure to cut out the branches growing inside the bush.
• Light pruning is enough for standard roses, and in case of freezing, the branches are cut to healthy buds.

It is essential to prune hybrid tea roses every year.

Summer

Summer care for roses comes down to weeding, periodic loosening of the soil, watering and fertilizing. Watering roses requires plentiful, but infrequent, otherwise the root system of plants will begin to develop close to the surface of the earth, and it can be easily damaged when loosening. On average, five liters of water is enough for one rose bush for one watering, but if it is a climbing rose, up to fifteen liters may be required. It is not recommended to use cold and chlorinated water. The fact that roses do not have enough water, you will understand by small, quickly withering flowers.

Feeding roses with complex fertilizers is carried out before the start of mass flowering, and in August the bushes are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. The mulch under the bushes needs to be updated periodically, as it is washed away by rains.

To prevent pests and diseases from appearing on roses, it is necessary in advance, in July, to spray the bushes with preparations containing copper.

To prevent pests and diseases from appearing on roses, it is necessary to spray the bushes in advance, in July

To encourage abundant flowering, remember to remove faded buds. Also in the summer, pruning of young long shoots should be carried out. And by the end of summer, watering should be reduced to a minimum.

Autumn

The main task of caring for roses in the fall is preparing plants for a cold winter. In this regard, the watering of roses is gradually stopped, leaving only loosening the soil and weeding. Bushes are treated for prevention with one percent Bordeaux liquid. Carry out pruning of faded shoots in climbing roses and the main other varieties of roses.

With the arrival of night frosts, roses must be sprinkled with a prepared dry mixture of earth, sand and peat. In floribunda roses, the stem, cut for the winter to 30 cm, should be almost completely covered with soil mixture; grandiflora and hybrid tea varieties spud to a height of 25 cm, cutting off all leaves and flowers. From above, the bushes are covered with spruce branches, glassine, cardboard, film or sawdust. Ground-cover, park and polyanthus roses need to be pricked up a little, without pruning or covering for the winter.

Curly, climbing and spray roses for the winter need to be shortened by fifteen centimeters, cut off the foliage and bend the shoots to the ground, laying a film under them to isolate from excess dampness coming from the ground. Also fix the film over the bent roses - in this case, spruce branches are not required. With the advent of spring, you will first need to remove the top film, and then remove the film from the ground and tie the lashes of roses to the supports.

Rose care video

Winter

Before the snow falls, you need to take care of protecting the roses from rodents by spreading poison around the bushes. And when enough snow falls, sprinkle covered roses on top of them, forming small snowdrifts. At the end of winter, it is recommended to periodically compact the snow around the bushes so that the mice, due to lack of food, do not crawl under the shelter and gnaw the bark on the roses.

With the onset of thaws, rose bushes can begin to be ventilated by temporarily lifting the spruce branches or polyethylene with which they were covered. It will be possible to completely remove the shelter only when the severe frosts end (approximately in March-April), and the earth thaws.

During the summer, roses should be systematically watered, fed, loosened, hilled. Abundant watering every 7-10 days (depending on the weather) contributes to the continuous growth and flowering of roses.

Water should be around the bush or in the furrows, which are then leveled. The soil must be constantly maintained in a loose state so that a crust does not form, preventing air from reaching the roots.

The lower part of the stems should be hilled up by 7-10 cm - this helps to retain moisture at the roots and prevents the young shoots from drying out.

During the season, roses need to be fed 3-4 times.

• First feeding should be carried out early in the spring at the very beginning of plant growth (20-30 g of nitrogen, 40-50 g of phosphorus and 10-15 g of potash fertilizers);
• Second top dressing carried out during the budding period - infusion of mullein (for 1 bucket of mullein 10-15 g of potash fertilizers);
• Third top dressing needed before the start of the 2nd flowering - (mullein infusion with the addition of 10-15 g of nitrogen, 50-60 g of phosphorus, 10-15 g of potassium fertilizers).
• Fourth top dressing should be done at the end of summer (50-60 g of superphosphate, 30-40 g of potassium salt).

For young plants, the feeding rate is 1 bucket per 2-3 plants, for adults - 1 bucket per bush.

And now let's take a closer look at all the rules for growing and caring for a rose.

Growing and caring for roses

• Proper pruning of roses .

Pruning roses is a simple operation, but requires knowledge of some rules.

The shoots are cut with a sharp pruner at an angle of 45 °, 5-6 mm above the developed bud. The cut surface must be smooth, without cracks or burrs. It must be covered with garden pitch.

Always cut off shoots to healthy wood. Cut to a bud located on the outside of the shoot, so as not to obscure the center of the bush. Sometimes in strong plants, roses, after pruning, grow from one bud 2- 3 escapes. Leave one, the rest must be deleted. All weak, thin, intersecting, diseased, dead shoots are cut to the level of the soil or healthy wood.

The number of shoots is left on the bush, which ensures air exchange and good illumination of the bush. In this case, the development of such fungal diseases as powdery mildew, black spot, rust, etc., which occur in stagnant air, is excluded.

• Proper formation of rose bushes.

Requires special attention in the first summer after planting. All small shoots growing inward, thickening the plant, as well as those growing from the place of grafting or the root neck (in own-rooted ones), are cut into a ring, strongly growing ones are pinched.

In July, the forming prunings are finished so as not to cause the growth of new shoots, which, before they have time to ripen, freeze slightly and often cause roses to be affected by diseases. In grafted roses, wild shoots are systematically cut to the ground, which are especially numerous in the first summer, and in subsequent years it becomes less. In order not to weaken the plants, emerging buds can be removed.

In subsequent years, summer pruning consists in shortening individual, too violently growing shoots, especially in large-flowered rose bushes and stem rose crowns. However, the main task of summer pruning is to encourage the plant to bloom again. In order for the bush to give the maximum number of flowers that this or that variety is capable of giving, the gardener must correctly carry out summer pruning.

! You can’t just remove a faded rose flower with a simple pinch, that is, you tore off one flower, and that’s it; this is a big mistake, because the new shoot with the flower will appear very high.

It will be elongated, thin and easily bendable. It is necessary to remove the flower even before the petals completely fall off, as soon as the flower loses its attractiveness. It is necessary to cut off the flower below, then the new shoot in this place will grow strong and hold on tightly (when cutting the flower, leave a 6-8 mm stump above the eye).

! Caring for roses during the growing season (this is spring, summer and autumn) consists in regularly loosening the soil around the bushes, weeding weeds, mulching the soil surface with organic fertilizers, feeding, protecting against pests and diseases, in proper watering, preparing for winter and shelter.

• Proper loosening of roses .

Roses need constant loosening of the soil around the plants. In the process of loosening, all weeds are destroyed, air easily penetrates into the loosened soil, and the earth warms up well, and besides, loosening saves water. It is especially important to loosen the soil after watering in hot weather. Loosening is also required after prolonged rains, when a continuous crust forms.

! However, we must remember that deep loosening is dangerous for roses, since damage to even minor roots harms the plant. You need to loosen to a depth of about 5-10 cm.

You can often see how gardeners, when processing bushes, trample the soil that has just been loosened around the plant. After finishing work, be sure to loosen the soil again. Usually loosening is started in May, but in July-August it is stopped in order to avoid inducing the plant to further growth.

• Proper mulching of the soil of roses.

When caring for roses, mulching is used with bedding, that is, the surface of the earth around the plants is sprinkled, for example, with peat, humus, peat-manure compost. Such bedding with a layer of up to 10 cm allows you to reduce the amount of watering and loosening.

! Adding (mulching) improves the physical and chemical properties of the soil, the conditions for the vital activity of soil microorganisms.

Therefore, in the spring, immediately after all the spring work, you need to pour mulching material between the rose bushes, and it is better to do this work before the buds open. If the bedding spoils the decorative look, later embed it into the soil by loosening.

• Proper watering of roses.

Rosa needs quite a lot of water. Depending on the growth phase, the plant's need for water is not the same. Most of all, moisture is needed during the period of most intensive development, when buds open, shoots and leaves appear, and also after the end of the first flowering, when new shoots begin to grow. Watered at the rate of 1 bush from 15-20 liters, if the weather is dry and warm, twice a week.

During the period of intensive growth, the need for water and nutrition increases significantly. Without enough water and nutrients, the rose produces only weak shoots and frail underdeveloped flowers, usually non-double and on a short stalk. The moisture that rain brings is very rarely sufficient. Superficial, even daily, watering means nothing to a rose.

! Roses should not be watered with cold water, they do not like it. Watering from a hose in May is especially dangerous: this, as a rule, leads to diseases.

Already when loosening the soil, one should also think about future watering, and therefore it is necessary to slightly raise the edges of flower beds and beds so that water does not drain from them, but penetrates into the ground where it is needed. Never water roses in the heat. The settled water is recommended to be poured from a watering can without a sprinkler, in a trickle, directly to the base of the plant, into a shallowly deepened hole. It is important not to spray the leaves.

When watering by sprinkling, as a rule, less water enters the soil than it should be. But if there is no other possibility, then at least it is not necessary to do it under the scorching rays of the sun. You should choose the time of watering so that the leaves have time to dry before evening, but in general watering on flowering plants, especially from a hose, is undesirable. At night, the danger of wet leaves being affected by fungal diseases increases.

The end of summer is the time when excessive watering of roses is not good, but rather, on the contrary, harms them. Excess water encourages plants to continue growing, as a result, the shoots do not have time to ripen in time, and frost can easily damage them. Therefore, with the onset of September, it is better not to water the roses, they have enough natural precipitation. But if the autumn is very dry, then you still have to moderately water the roses, about 10-12 liters of water per bush once a week, so that, having entered the winter period, their roots are not left without moisture. Frozen soil does not allow water to pass through, and roses can die due to lack of moisture. Therefore, abundant watering is so important before the ground is frost-bound. In dry autumn, before winter shelter, it is necessary to provide roses with a sufficient amount of moisture: up to 25-30 liters of water per 1 m 2.

Fertilizers and fertilizing roses

Proper nutrition is an important part of rose care. In the first year after planting, the plant is fed in small doses, carrying out 2-3 feedings over the summer. Basically, top dressing is given from the second year of cultivation.

! Many gardeners make a big mistake by adding fresh manure or bird droppings to the soil for planting roses in the spring - this is simply fatal for young seedlings.

These organic fertilizers are best given to plants in liquid form.

• For example, 1 liter of mushy mullein (cow dung) or bird droppings is diluted in 10 liters of water (bird droppings should ferment in a barrel for 8-10 days, only after that it is used, once again diluted at the rate of 0.5-1.0 liters of cooked solution per 10 liters of water), watered only under the bushes so that flies do not start. After top dressing with such necessary, but unpleasantly smelling nutrients, it is necessary to “powder” the soil with wood ash or chalk from above and loosen it to a depth of 5-6 cm.

Usually in spring, roses receive good nutrition from mulching (bedding) carried out in late autumn, in early November. Usually, decomposed cow dung, or peat-dung humus, or simply well-prepared peat, or vegetable humus, etc. are added to the bushes. These organic materials are an excellent source of humus. Thanks to this nutrition, the rose forms a root system more intensively in the spring, and if at this time it is still fed with nitrogen (about 1 tablespoon of urea (urea)), the results will be excellent.

! Remember that roses do not like acidic soil.

Knowing how much they need organic fertilizers and wood ash, and providing them to plants during the growing season, you will always ensure that the soil reaction is favorable for the growth and development of roses.

! Roses require a sufficient amount of a variety of nutrients and always respond gratefully to their introduction.

In order for roses to always smell fragrant in your garden, they must be provided with all the nutrients.

• Nitrogen promotes growth of plants and they need it after pruning (in early May), during the period of formation of new shoots and in preparation for re-flowering. The deadline for nitrogen application is the beginning of August (fertilizers that cause growth: urea, liquid organic top dressing "Effekton-C" and "Effekton-DC").
• Phosphorus necessary for the maturation of strong shoots. It also affects the intensity and quality of flowering. It is applied from June to September inclusive (simple or double superphosphate).
• Potassium necessary during the period of budding and flowering, as well as when preparing roses for winter. Potassium is easily washed out of the soil, it is applied from June to October in the form of potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate), potassium chloride.
• Calcium needed to neutralize acidic soils. The creation of an alkaline environment favorably affects the activity of bacteria that decompose organomineral fertilizers. Apply dolomite flour, chalk, slaked lime, wood ash, organic fertilizer deoxidizer.
• trace elements(magnesium, iron, boron, manganese) are needed throughout the growing season. The absence of iron in the soil causes chlorosis, the absence of boron and manganese reduces the immunity of plants. Apply "Agricola for flowering plants" (granulated mineral fertilizer) and "Agricola-Rosa", any complete fertilizer (always contains microfertilizers) and wood ash.

Root feeding roses in the first year after planting

• First dressing (in the first or second decade of May): for 10 liters of water, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea and granular fertilizer "Agricola for flowering plants" or "Agricola-Rosa".
• Second top dressing (in the first decade of June): in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrophoska and the drug "Effekton-C".
• Third top dressing (at the end of June): in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate (double superphosphate, if simple, 2 tablespoons), 2 tbsp. spoons of "Agricola-Rose" (liquid concentrated fertilizer).
• Fourth dressing (in the second half of July): 2 tbsp. spoons of a mixture of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

! The consumption rate of the solution per 1 bush depends on the size of the plant. Under a small bush they give 2-3 liters of solution, for an average bush - 5 liters, for a well-developed 6-7 liters.

Root top dressing introduced from the second year of growing roses

• First feeding carried out at the beginning of the blooming of leaf buds: 1 tbsp is diluted in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of urea and granular fertilizer "Agricola-Rosa". These fertilizers enhance growth and accelerate the development of plants. Spend 3 liters of solution per bush.
• Second top dressing carried out at the beginning of the appearance of leaves: in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of Agricola-Rosa liquid concentrated fertilizer, nitrophoska mineral fertilizer and organic fertilizer, spending 3-4 liters of solution per bush.
• Third top dressing carried out at the beginning of the appearance of flower buds: 1 tbsp is diluted in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of potassium sulfate (mineral fertilizer), 1 tbsp. spoon (20 g) "Agricola for flowering plants", 1 tbsp. a spoonful of organic liquid fertilizer "Effekton". The consumption of the solution for 1 bush is 4-5 liters.
• Fourth top dressing carried out at the beginning of flowering: in 10 liters of water, dilute 2 tbsp. spoons of nitrophoska and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate and granular fertilizer "Agricola-Rosa". Consumption of 3-4 liters per bush.
• Fifth dressing carried out after flowering: in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. Or in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of concentrated liquid fertilizer "Agricola-Rosa" and 2 tbsp. spoons of phosphorus-potassium mixture. These top dressings contribute to the accumulation of nutrients for the successful wintering of plants and the laying of new inflorescences. The consumption of the solution is 4-5 liters per bush.

Feeding roses with organic fertilizers

All of the above top dressing is easy for urban gardeners who can purchase modern and effective fertilizers in the store. But those who live in towns, villages and just far from the city use long-spread organic fertilizers (manure, manure, compost, etc.), and from mineral fertilizers - urea, nitrophoska, superphosphate, potassium sulfate. These mineral fertilizers can always be found.

• First feeding carried out in the spring: in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 liter of mushy mullein and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea. Spend 4-5 liters per bush or 1 m 2.
• Second top dressing carried out during the budding period: in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate, superphosphate. The consumption of the solution is 3 l per 1 m 2.
• Third top dressing carried out during the flowering period (July): 0.5 liters of liquid bird droppings are diluted in 10 liters of water, as well as 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate, nitrophoska, pouring wood ash around the bush at the rate of 1 cup per 1 bush.
• Fourth top dressing carried out before the start of lignification of the shoots (second half of August): for 10 liters of water take 2 tbsp. spoons of complete fertilizer, which contains, in addition to phosphorus and potassium, trace elements. Consumption of 5 liters of solution. You can take 10 liters of water for 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate and superphosphate.

! When fertilizing in liquid form or, if the summer is rainy, dry, the specific conditions must always be taken into account.

• If the weather is dry, hot, it is not enough rain to give only liquid fertilizers, and if it rains often, it is better to scatter dry fertilizers around the bush and lightly spud the bush.
• Usually, with frequent and heavy rains, fertilizers are washed out in a significant amount from the soil layer around the rose bush, so the amount of fertilizer for top dressing can be increased by 1.5-2 times.
• Also increase the rate of fertilizer applied to sandy soils. It is better to apply them dry mixed with organic fertilizers (humus, peat, sawdust).

Foliar top dressing of roses

Roses are fed not only from the roots, but also through the leaves. Foliar nutrition is very important for plant health, especially for roses that have an unhealthy appearance:pale matte fine

leaves and weak flower stems, as well as for young and already old bushes. Such top dressing can be done every 10 days.

There are special preparations, fertilizers designed to feed plants through the leaves. They contain all the necessary nutrients, which are added to the root dressing.

These are, for example, « Agricola Rosa» And (20 g is diluted in 10 liters of water), they are sprayed with leaves and flowers.

The drug is a wonderful highly effective plant growth stimulator and regulator - used in any phase of development, spraying on leaves, buds and flowers. Good results of the application of "Buton" are determined by its composition. The preparation contains a unique complex of growth substances. In "Bud" at the same time there are macro- and microelements necessary for feeding plants. One sachet of the drug (10 g) is dissolved in 5-10 liters of water. The consumption of the working solution is 1-3 liters per 10-15 m 2 occupied by flower crops. "Bud" is environmentally friendly, harmless to fish, bees and other insects.

"Agricola-Rosa" (and all of the above "Agricola") promotes the growth and development of the bush, the enlargement of flowers and peduncles (1 tablespoon is diluted in 10 liters of water), the solution is used both for spraying and for root dressing.

The mineral fertilizer urea is also used, diluting 1 tbsp. spoon in 10 liters of water.

Excellent stimulator of growth of roots - . A solution of "Heteroauxin" is poured over the soil in a pit prepared in the spring for planting roses. When propagating roses with cuttings, they are soaked before planting in such a solution for several days for the roots to appear.

! Foliar top dressing is done in the morning or in the evening if the weather is hot, and in the afternoon if it is cloudy.

! In order to avoid burns in sunny weather during the daytime, top dressing should not be done.

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