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Converter circuit 12 220 to 300 watts. Let's try to make a voltage converter ourselves. The simplest homemade inverter

Comments (41):

#1 Snow White February 19 2015

Perfetto. Excellent This circuit seems to be what I was looking for about the transistor, very interesting. If you increase the number of turns, say three times, the current on KT 817 will also drop to 0.6. It doesn't work fast enough, is this the reason for the high current?

To be honest, I haven’t tried to increase the turns. As for the performance speed, yes, that’s why it was replaced with KT940. the current can be reduced further. From the lamp, take only the lamp itself and throw the board out of it. then the current is in the range of 0.3-0.35A..

#3 Selyuk May 12 2015

Everything is very “simple”, but where can I get the transformer cups??

#4 root May 12 2015

In the transformer design of this high-voltage converter there is no gap between the ferrite cups, so you can try using a ferrite ring or frame from a pulse transformer with a ferrite core (you can take it from a non-working computer power supply).
You will need to experiment with the number of turns and output voltage.

#5 pavel June 01 2015

What is the principle for calculating a transformer and selecting transistors for this inverter? I would like to make one with a power supply of 60 volts.

The cups were taken because they were just there, and the number of turns in such a core is needed less. I haven’t tried ferrite rings; it works fine on regular W-shaped ferrite. I don’t remember how many turns I wound, the primary one seemed to be 12 turns with 0.5mm wire, and the booster one was done by eye until the frame on the core was filled. The transformer was taken from a 4 by 5 cm monitor.

#7 Egor October 05 2015

I have a question for you: how many ohms is the resistor on the left at 220???
I'm just not very good at electronics)))

#8 root October 05 2015

If there are only numbers next to the resistor, that means the resistance is in Ohms. In the diagram, the resistor has a resistance of 220 ohms.

Tell me, is it possible to use your circuit to power the MTX-90 thyratron and not from 12, but from a 3.7 volt battery?
If possible, what are the best transistors to use? The MTX-90 has a small operating current - from 2 to 7 mA, and the voltage for ignition needs about 170 volts, well, you can experiment with this with a transformer (about voltage).

I don’t even know what to answer. Somehow I didn’t think about it.. Why do you need to power the thyratron from this circuit? In principle, it will work, of course, the only question is how... from 3.7 volts it is also possible, but the windings must be recalculated or selected experimentally.

#11 Oleg December 13 2015

People, tell us how to make an inverter from transistors from a Chinese typewriter on a control panel. Is it possible to install a ring ferrite core and is it possible to make a 3-fold difference in turns? I should make an inverter this way just for fun and to make it easier. And is it possible to set the input voltage to somewhere around 3V?
Answer please! I will be glad if you answer all my questions! I'm waiting for your answers!

#12 Alexander December 17 2015

I have 30/10 ferrite cups, is it possible to wind a trans on them and what number of turns should be wound, at least approximately.

#13 Alexander January 24 2016

Everything works great there, both the 15 watt lamp and the 20 watt one. More powerful transistors are simply needed. KT940 can be left alone, but 814 could at least be replaced with KT837. And if the current is high, you don’t need to rewind anything, you just need to increase the value of the resistor to 3.1k. And the transformer is not necessarily of this size, even a pulse generator will work from charging, transistors will still play a special role. p.s. These transistors have a power of no more than 10 watts

#14 Eduard February 01 2016

What kind of transistor can I replace KT814 with? Can I use 13005 or KT805?

#15 Alexander February 03 2016

Change it to KT805 - you'll scrape off a lot of power, because according to the datasheet, KT805 can give up to 60 watts

KT814 is p-n-p conductivity, and KT805 and 13005 are n-p-n..., of course you can’t Eduard...

#17 Mars May 11 2016

Instead of KT814 I installed KT816.15W lamp pulled.

#18 sasha November 06 2016

I installed KT805 and KT837. primary 16v.0.5mm. secondary 230v. 0.3mm. lamp 23W. glows great.

#19 Eduard November 19 2016

March. counter question, what then can replace the KT940, so that the KT814 can be replaced with KT805 or 13005 and change the power polarity? An idea arose: I removed the 12-volt pulse transformer from the electronic transformer for halogen lamps, there is just a secondary of 12-14 turns and The primary is about 150-200 turns. If you deploy it as a booster and plug it into this circuit? I think it should work, but if you replace the combination of KT814 and KT940 with something more modern, then you can squeeze out up to 40 W of power? I also want to try it on the UC3845 PWM controller , the circuit there is generally primitive: a UC3845 microcircuit, in its circuit a frequency-setting resistor and a film capacitor, an IRFZ44 field-effect transistor and a transformer from an electronic transformer included in the circuit as a step-up, as a result we have up to 100 W of power at 12 volts

and why "..940 outputs in the old colors in abundance.. everyone has nowhere to put it... replace it with any reverse transistor, but you want 805, then yes..940 on forward conduction.... and change the polarity... but again -why do we all have so many of these transits in our bins...

#21 pavel February 09 2017

why do you need to increase the power of the circuit :)? What, will you use KrAZ batteries (190 a/h)?? this circuit makes sense, as a friend correctly said, if you use a bulb from a lamp with a burnt-out circuit. Otherwise, to hell with the button accordion: an LED lamp from the same battery, with the same light output, will illuminate many times longer!..

#22 pavel February 09 2017

Now about the transistors: you can change them, but you need to remember that any power transistor provides its declared power only when using an appropriate heat sink. this fact directly affects the dimensions of the entire device. and where will you get energy saving? l ampu more powerful than 30 watts = 150? I haven't seen it on sale. and I already talked about the battery for such a “pacifier” :). so, know your limits, inventors, good luck!

#23 Eduard February 24 2017

March, I just have a problem with the Soviet KT940 and KT814. Basically in my reserves I have imported powerful high-frequency bipolar transistors 13005 for 5 amperes 400 volts, and the like. They managed to light the flask at full brightness from a 30 W energy-saving device, while the transistor was slightly warm. And the Soviet KT814 and KT805 ARE GLUGGY BY THEMSELVES BOIL QUICKLY EVEN WITH A RADIATOR

I would not say that the KT805 is buggy... depending on which one you use. in plastic they are unreliable, there is such a thing, and then for some 80 years. take the 805 in metal, it’s generally an indestructible transistor. However, it is necessary to emphasize the fact that they are buggy not because they are bad, but because they were not entirely in capable hands, just

But you can even install imported microwave transistors, it will work!!! verified!!. In this article, I wasn’t trying to create a miniature lamp, but rather how to fix a burnt-out lamp at minimal cost. to serve again

the 814 collector should be grounded through a 10 µF capacitor, otherwise when switching the surge is very large.
The 814 transistor is in a half-open state - however, it needs a radiator.

It was easier to use a blocking generator.

what other 10 microfarad capacitor, what nonsense, is it really not clear from the photo that the miniature radiator will all fit into a pack of cigarettes. and using a blocking generator is no easier. there you need at least three windings. and the transistor will heat up there no less!!!

#28 IamJiva August 14 2017

blocking generator serves the same purpose, to provide feedback (bring the microphone to the speaker so that it buzzes), if you did without a microphone, why don’t you need it, here you got by adding a transistor, in blocking you can get by with one transistor, and turn the phase around with turns of the winding, which (allow ) can be independently connected in any polarity. You can squeeze out a lot of watts, but it’s difficult, part of the energy (for powerful lamps is significant, up to 90%) is lost on the diode bridge and electrolyte (in the lamp rectifier) ​​that are cheap (especially if powerful) and 50Hz are suitable, at 50kHz smoke can already come from them and the voltage never appears to start the lamp, 50Hz diodes (simple, that is, not ultrafast or Schottky) do not have time to lock, and drain the charge back into the winding or somewhere else, this causes heating of everything and incorrect operation of the generator, the electrolyte has inductance (series) , and a short pulse it only “recognizes” but is in no hurry to carry out the order, while waiting for the command to set it aside... the current begins to increase to infinity or as much as they give, for 50Hz instantly, for 50kHz - never... the transistor needs to be fast, it can heat up and NO way, IRF840 2pcs, correctly used, provided on 4 4ohm columns of 500wt each, 2000Wt of power in class D, powered by +-85V (170V) TL494 PWM, Ir2112 driver in the gates, 4pcs ultrafast diodes shunt the SI and IC, varistors 400V BC 30V SI
2kW drum and bass power, they were a little warm on the same radiators as here, at the output there is a choke from the fuel assembly and 200 turns, at 2500wt they burned out without warning
It would be a good idea to bypass the output transformer of the primary with a diode, or better yet with a varistor (from flyback impulses possible in the event of a load disconnection, the selection of transistors and turns of the primary for maximum efficiency is as important and valuable as the ratio of sugar and vinegar with water + time on the timer in the microwave, so go away and take out the lollipops, the circuit works like a juggler you’ve never seen, they hope for the ease of transferring the ideal-harmony-efficiency-power to another circus and there’s no need for a jacket

One question for the author. This converter will pull an electric razor from Kharkov, Agidel, Berdsk, etc.
I need just such a miniature one that I can always build it into my shaving machine.
Just don’t write that there are plenty of battery-powered and wind-up electric shavers on sale. My dear to me.
She's been with me half my life.
Good luck.

#30 root January 21 2018

To power a 220V electric razor from the car’s on-board network, it is better to assemble some more reliable and powerful voltage converter. Here are a few similar schemes:

  1. Voltage inverter 12V to 220V from available parts (555, K561IE8, MJ3001)
  2. Simple voltage inverter 13V-220V for car (CD4093, IRF530)

Thanks for the links, but it’s too expensive and difficult to assemble on your knees.
I don't have such details. But the old color.tel. and there is a tape recorder. It's all there
People write that you can increase the power by replacing transistors with 805.837.
An electric razor consumes 30 watts. Maybe it will. What do you think.

I came across the Variom A ROM.

The trouble is that the P216G transistors can no longer be found, and one of them is not working. According to the parameters, the GT701A seems to be suitable, but here’s how to determine the resistors. There are only 4 of them, two pairs. I don’t think it will work just replacing both P216Gs with GT701A. Tell.

#33 root February 05 2018

Agu1954, P216 transistors can be replaced with GT701A or P210V. Below are the main operating limits of these transistors:

  • P216G: Ukb, max=50V; Ik max=7.5A; Pk max=24W; h21e>5; f gr.>0.2 MHz;
  • P210V: Ukb, max=45V; Ik max=12A; Pk max=45W; h21e>10; f gr.>0.1 MHz;
  • GT701A: Ukb, max=55V; Ik max=12A; Pk max=50W; h21e>10; f gp.=0.05 MHz;

Replace two transistors P216 with GT701A (P210V). For safety reasons, the first connection of the circuit to the battery should be made through a 3A fuse.

P.S. Please ask questions not related to the diagram given in the publication on the forum or in our social groups VK and FB.

#34 Sergey February 16 2018

#35 root February 16, 2018

Hello, Sergey. An old, and no longer working, postal address was indicated. Fixed it with a new one.

#36 Sergey February 16 2018

This converter operates at a frequency far greater than 50Hz. somewhere in the region of 20-50 kHz. Even if you increase the power by replacing transistors with more powerful ones, the razor will still not work. the engine simply cannot physically operate at a frequency of tens of kilohertz

#38 Petro Kopitonenko November 19 2018

To lower the frequency of the current on the converter, you must try to increase the number of turns of the transformer, both the primary and secondary windings. Where am I coming from? 50 hertz transformers have a large number of turns. And high-frequency ones have a small number of turns. This is the same as in oscillatory circuits, the frequency depends on the number of turns. I soldered an experimental converter with a factory transformer at 50 hertz. There, two primary windings are wound with 40 turns instead of 10 turns according to the circuit. I could hear the transformer humming at a frequency of about 40 hertz by ear. If it were a frequency of 50 kilohertz, I would not hear anything!!!

#39 David June 13 2019

Or you can use a ready-made transformer in this circuit. For example, step-up transformer TP 30-2, just connect in reverse (to the 15 volt output winding)

#40 root June 15 2019

The circuit requires a high-frequency transformer; TP 30-2 or another network transformer with Sh-like or toroidal iron will not work here.

#41 Dmitry October 06 2019

Good day! The primary of the transformer must be equipped with a snubber. With the second transistor you are practically switching the inductance. And don’t care that the voltage is low! With a snubber chain it will be easier for transistors. Someone above already suggested shunting the 814 collector with a capacitance, but it went unheard. But better, of course, is a classic snubber - diode, resistor, capacitor.

To connect an electrical device to your home network, one surge protector or uninterruptible power supply unit is enough. These devices will protect equipment from power surges. But what to do if there is a strong voltage drop in the network, or if the power network requires the use of higher or lower voltage. For such situations, you can assemble a homemade electrical current converter from 12V to 220V. To do this, you need to understand the basic principles of operation of this device.

A converter is a device that can increase or decrease the voltage of an electrical circuit. This way you can change the circuit voltage from 220V to 380V, and vice versa. Let's consider the principle of constructing a converter from 12V to 220V.

These devices can be divided into several classes/types, depending on their functional purpose:

  • Rectifiers. They work on the principle of converting alternating current to direct current.
  • Inverters. They work in reverse order, converting direct current into alternating current.
  • Frequency converters. They change the frequency characteristics of the current in the circuit.
  • Voltage converters. Change the voltage up or down. Among them are:
    • Switching power supplies.
    • Uninterruptible power supplies (UPS).
    • Voltage transformers.

Also, all devices are divided into two groups - according to the control principle:

  1. Managed.
  2. Uncontrollable.

Common Schemes

To convert voltage from one level to another, pulse converters with installed inductive energy storage devices are used. Based on this, three types of conversion schemes are distinguished:

  • Inverting.
  • Raising.
  • Downgrades.

All of the following circuits use electrical components:

  1. Main switching component.
  2. Power supply.
  3. A filter capacitor that is connected in parallel with the load resistance.
  4. Inductive energy storage (choke, inductor).
  5. Diode for blocking.

Combining these elements in a certain sequence allows you to build any of the above schemes.

Simple pulse converter

The most basic converter can be assembled from unnecessary parts from an old computer system unit. A significant drawback of this circuit is that the 220V output voltage is far from ideal in its sine wave shape and has a frequency exceeding the standard 50 Hz. It is not recommended to connect sensitive electronics to such a device.

This scheme uses an interesting technical solution. To connect equipment with switching power supplies (for example, a laptop) to the converter, rectifiers with smoothing capacitors are used at the output of the device. The only negative is that the adapter will only work if the polarity of the output voltage of the socket matches the voltage of the rectifier built into the adapter.

For simple energy consumers, the connection can be made directly to the output of transformer TR1. Let's consider the main components of this scheme:

  • Resistor R1 and capacitor C2 - set the operating frequency of the converter.
  • PWM controller TL494. The basis of the whole scheme.
  • Power field effect transistors Q1 and Q2 are used for greater efficiency. Placed on aluminum radiators.
  • IRFZ44 transistors can be replaced with IRFZ46 or IRFZ48 with similar characteristics.
  • Diodes D1 and D2 can also be replaced with FR107, FR207.

If the circuit involves the use of one common radiator, it is necessary to install transistors through insulating spacers. According to the scheme, the output choke is wound onto a ferrite ring from the choke, which is also removed from the computer power supply. The primary winding is made of 0.6 mm wire. It should have 10 turns with a tap from the middle. A secondary winding consisting of 80 turns is wound on top of it. The output transformer can also be removed from an unnecessary UPS.

The scheme is very simple. When assembled correctly, it starts working immediately and does not require fine tuning. It will be able to supply a current of up to 2.5 A to the load, but the optimal operating mode will be a current of no more than 1.5 A - and this is more than 300 W of power.

INTERESTING: In a store, a similar converter costs around 3-4 thousand rubles.

Converter circuit with AC output

This scheme is also known to radio amateurs of the USSR. However, this does not make it ineffective. On the contrary, it has proven itself very well, and its main advantage is the receipt of stable alternating current with a voltage of 220V and a frequency of 50 Hz.

The K561TM2 microcircuit, which is a dual-type D-trigger, acts as an oscillation generator. This element can be replaced with a foreign analogue CD4013.

The converter itself has two power arms built on KT827A bipolar transistors. They have one significant drawback compared to new field-effect transistors - these components become very hot when open, which is due to high resistance values. The converter operates at low frequency, so a powerful steel core is used in the transformer.

This circuit uses an old TC-180 network transformer. It, like other inverters based on simple PWM circuits, produces a significantly different sinusoidal voltage waveform. However, this drawback is slightly mitigated by the high inductance of the transformer windings and the output capacitor C7.

IMPORTANT: Sometimes the transformer may produce a noticeable hum during operation. This indicates a problem with the circuit.

Simple transistor inverter

This scheme is not very different from those presented above. The main difference is the use of a rectangular pulse generator built on bipolar transistors.

The main advantage of this circuit is the ability of the converter to remain operational even with a very low battery. In this case, the input voltage range can be from 3.5 to 18V. But there are also disadvantages of such an inverter. Since the circuit does not have any stabilizer at the output, voltage drops are possible, for example, when the battery is discharged. Since this circuit is also low-frequency, a transformer is selected for it, similar to that installed in the inverter based on the K561TM2 microcircuit.

Improvements to inverter circuits

The above diagrams cannot be compared with factory products. They are simple and poorly functional. To improve their characteristics, you can resort to fairly simple modifications that increase the performance of the device.

ATTENTION: Any electrical and electronic installation is carried out with the power source disconnected. Before checking the circuit, test all inputs and outputs with a multimeter - this will avoid unpleasant consequences.

Increased power output

The circuits discussed above are based on the same principle - the primary winding of the transformer is connected through a key component (arm output transistor). It is connected to the input of the power source for a time specified by the frequency and duty cycle of the master oscillator. In this case, magnetic field pulses are generated, exciting common-mode pulses in the secondary winding of the transformer with a voltage equal to the voltage in the primary winding multiplied by the ratio of the number of turns in the windings.

Accordingly, current passes through the output transistor. In this case, it is equal to the load current multiplied by the inverse ratio of turns (transformation ratio). It turns out that the maximum current that the transistor can pass through itself sets the maximum power of the converter.

Two methods are used to increase output power:

  • Installing a more powerful transistor.
  • Using parallel connection of several low-power transistors in one arm.

For a homemade converter, it is preferable to use the second method, since it allows you to maintain the functionality of the device if one of the transistors fails. In addition, such transistors cost less money.

In the absence of internal overload protection, this method significantly increases the survivability of the converter. It also reduces the overall heating of internal components when operating at the same load.

Automatic shutdown when battery is low

These schemes have one significant drawback. They do not provide a component that can automatically turn off the converter in the event of a critical voltage drop. But solving this problem is quite simple. It is enough to install a regular car relay as a circuit breaker.

The relay has its own critical voltage at which its contacts close. By selecting the resistance of resistor R1, which will be approximately 10% of the resistance of the relay winding, the moment of contact breaking is adjusted. This option is demonstrated in the diagram.

This option is quite primitive. To stabilize the operation, the converter is supplemented with a simple control circuit that maintains the shutdown threshold much better and more accurately. The response threshold setting in this case is calculated by selecting resistor R3.

Inverter fault detection

The circuits described above often have two specific defects:

  1. No voltage at the transformer output.
  2. Low voltage at the transformer output.

Let's look at ways to diagnose these faults:

  • Failure of all arms of the converter or failure of the PWM generator. You can check the breakdown using a diode. A working PWM will show ripple on the diode when it is connected to the gates of the transistors. It is also worth checking the integrity of the transformer winding “for an open” in the presence of a control signal.
  • A strong drop in voltage is the main sign that one power arm has stopped working. Finding a breakdown is not difficult. A failed transistor will have a cold heatsink. To repair, you will need to replace the inverter key.

Conclusion

Making a converter at home is not difficult. The main thing is to follow the sequence of connections and select the components correctly. It is best to assemble a converter with built-in protection mechanisms that will protect the device when the battery voltage drops.

A fairly powerful and simple push-pull voltage converter can be built using just two powerful field-effect transistors. I have repeatedly used such an inverter in a variety of designs. The circuit uses two powerful N-channel transistors; it is advisable to take them with an operating voltage of 100 Volts, a permissible current of 40 Amps or more.

The scheme is quite popular on the Internet.

In addition to transistors in the circuit, we have ultra-fast diodes; you can use diodes such as UF4007, HER207, HER307, HER308, MUR460 and others. Two 12-volt zener diodes to limit the voltage on the gates of field switches; it is advisable to take zener diodes with a power of 1 or 1.5 watts; if 12-volt zener diodes are not available, then you can use them with a stabilization voltage of 9-15 volts, not critical.

It is advisable to take limiting resistors with a power of 0.5 or 1 watt; a slight overheating of these resistors is possible. The transformer can be wound on the core from a computer power supply, you can even not wind anything, and use the transformer in the opposite way - as a step-up one. Just in case, I will say that the primary or power winding consists of 2x5 turns, wound with a busbar of 5 separate wires of 0.7 mm each (each busbar), the wire is not critical.

The secondary, step-up winding is wound on top of the primary and consists of 45 turns - this is quite enough to produce 220 Volts, taking into account the operating frequency of the generator.

The circuit does not contain critical components, the spread of the element base is quite wide. The transistors must be installed on the heat sink; do not forget to separate them from the heat sink with mica spacers, but this is in the case of one solid heat sink.

The choke can be wound on a ring from the output chokes of a computer power supply; the winding is wound with a busbar of 3 strands of 1 mm wire (each), the number of turns is from 6 to 12.

A little about power and safety measures. The output voltage depends on the connected load; this inverter is designed to work with passive loads (lamp, soldering iron, etc.) since the output frequency is hundreds of times higher than the network frequency.

To connect active loads to the inverter, the voltage from the output of the transformer must first be rectified, then smoothed with an electrolytic capacitor; do not forget that the rectifier must use fast diodes with a reverse voltage of at least 600 volts and a current of 2 Amperes or more. Electrolytic capacitor for voltage 400 Volts, capacity 47-330 µF. The inverter power is 300 watts!

Be extremely careful– the output voltage after the rectifier with a capacitor is deadly!


Often in life there is a need to obtain a voltage of 220V from a lower voltage, say, 12 Volts. For example, you need to connect a laptop charger to a car battery, this is not a problem. In addition, inverters have found wide application in alternative energy. They are usually installed on wind turbines, hydroelectric power stations, etc., which in most cases generate low voltage.


Today we will look at how to make an inverter with your own hands. There are no complex electronics here, the set of components is very small, and the circuit is understandable to any beginner. All you need is to connect several resistors, transistors and a transformer. Intrigued? Then let's move on to studying the instructions!

Materials and tools used

List of materials:
- transformer 12-0-12V at 5A;
- 12V battery;
- two aluminum radiators;
- two TIP3055 transistors;
- two 100 Ohm/10 Watt resistors;
- two 15 Ohm/10 Watt resistors;
- wires;
- plywood, laminate (or other material for making the body);
- socket;
- thermal paste;
- plastic ties;
- screws and nuts, etc.










List of tools:
- soldering iron;
-
- ;
- wire cutters;
- screwdriver.

Inverter manufacturing process:

Step one. Check out the diagram
Check out the connection diagram for all elements. There is both a detailed electronic diagram and a simple, intuitive diagram of where and what wires to connect.




Step two. We assemble two circuits from resistors and transistors
We take the transistor and attach it to a 15 Ohm resistor, as seen in the photo. We attach the second transistor in the same way.








Step three. Radiator
During operation, transistors will heat up, and if this heat is not removed, they may fail. Here you will need two radiators. We drill holes, apply thermal paste and firmly tighten the transistors to the radiators with self-tapping screws.








Step four. We connect two circuits using 100 Ohm resistors
We take two 100 Ohm resistors and connect the two circuits diagonally. That is, you need to solder the contacts to the two leftmost legs of the transistors, if you look at their front part.










Step five. Connecting the central legs
We take a two-wire cable and solder one wire at a time to the central contacts of the transistors. These wires are then soldered to the leftmost and rightmost pins on the transformer, as can be seen in the photo.






Step six. Jumper
According to the diagram, you need to install a jumper between the outermost and rightmost contacts of the transistors. We cut off a piece of wire and solder them to the paws.




Step seven. Further connection
We take another piece of wire, the author has it pink. Solder it to the central contact of the transformer, through it the positive from the battery will be supplied to the transformer.

You will also need a piece of white wire, this will be the negative from the battery, it needs to be soldered to the yellow wire, that is, the jumper installed earlier.




Step eight. Let's test!
Before you know it, the electronic part of the inverter has been assembled and you can test it! We connect the battery and measure the voltage with a multimeter. It jumps in the range of 200-500V.
First, the author decided to connect a very weak 5-watt light bulb to the inverter; it lit up without any problems.










Then a more serious 40-watt light bulb was connected, and it lights up as if it were plugged into an outlet at home, but in fact it is powered by a small 12V battery.








Finally, the author decided to connect a 15W fluorescent lamp, it also lit up without any problems.




We also decided to try connecting a mobile phone charger. The phone charges without any complaints.


Step nine. Assembling the body
To make everything safe and look aesthetically pleasing, we will make a housing for the inverter! To do this, you will need a socket, a piece of cable, and plywood, laminate or something similar. We cut the material into the required pieces to make a box. We screw the transformer to the base; for reliability, the author decided to fasten it with screws and nuts. As for the electronic part with transistors, it was decided to secure it with plastic ties. We drill holes and attach the lower 100 ohm resistors to the base.




















The body can be assembled; for this purpose the author used hot glue. As for the top cover, you need to cut out a seat for the socket in it. The author's material is soft; he cuts out the window using a stationery knife. If the window is the right size, the socket should lock securely. On the reverse side it can be further strengthened with hot glue or epoxy.

It's time to install the cover; we attach it with self-tapping screws in order to have access to the insides of the inverter.

I have never seen an inverter circuit simpler than this one. To repeat, you will need a minimum of parts - no more than 10 pieces. To obtain an output voltage of 220 volts, we need one 1.5 volt AA battery.

Inverters are needed where it is not possible to connect to a 220 volt network. Inverters are divided into two types: some have a sinusoidal output voltage with a frequency of 50 Hz and are suitable for powering almost any load. Other modified ones have a high output frequency, about 500-10000 Hz and not always a sinusoidal waveform.
Inverters with a sine wave frequency of 50 Hz are expensive, since a large transformer or simulation electronics unit is needed to generate a sine wave pulse of 50 Hz.
The simplest inverter that we will make belongs to the second group. And it is suitable for powering various switching power supplies, such as a phone charger, an energy-saving light bulb - fluorescent or LED.

Required Components

Transformer 220V – 6V. You can tear it out of an old tape recorder, receiver, etc. or buy here -
AA battery case - 1 -
Switch - 1 -
Printed circuit board - 1 -
BC547 transistor (domestic analogue of KT3102, KT315) - 1 -
BD140 Transistor with radiator (domestic analogue of KT814, KT816) – 1 -
Capacitor 0.1 µF – 1-
30 kOhm resistor - 1 -
Tools:
Soldering iron, if you don’t have it, take it here -

Scheme

Let's start getting acquainted with the inverter with a diagram. This is an ordinary multivibrator based on a composite transistor. The result is a generator at the output of which there is a step-up transformer.
Let's put together a diagram. The board is prototyping, with a lot of holes. We insert the parts and solder them with jumpers according to the diagram.

Checking work

If all components of the circuit are in good working order, and the circuit is assembled without errors, then the inverter starts working immediately and does not need adjustment.



We connect an energy-saving lamp to the inverter output. Insert the battery and close the switch. The light came on.


Of course, its brightness is lower than when powered from the mains, but the fact that it operates from a 1.5 volt element is a breakthrough!
Naturally, as everywhere else, the law of conservation of energy applies here. Based on this, it follows that the current in the battery circuit will be several times higher than in the light bulb circuit. In general, the battery must be alkaline, then there is a chance that it will work a little longer.

When installing and working with the inverter, be especially careful, the voltage of 220 volts is dangerous to life. And, believe me, a 1.5 volt battery is enough to give a person a devastating electric shock, and even cause cardiac arrest. As you know, to do this it is enough to pass about 100 mA through a person, which this inverter is quite capable of.
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