Luxurious inflorescences on autumn flower beds attract the eye and amaze with a variety of shades. Indoor chrysanthemum in a pot differs from relatives in the open field in the compact shape of a spherical bush 20–40 cm high. Breeders have bred several hybrids and varieties adapted to lack of lighting and other indoor conditions.

"Home" chrysanthemums are not demanding for care, they grow well, bloom profusely and reproduce easily. In everyday life, it is customary to say "flowers", although the Asteraceae family has an inflorescence-basket. When buying, you should pay attention to the fact that there is a healthy chrysanthemum in a pot, care at home will then be much easier. A well developed indoor plant will continue to bloom on a windowsill. Under favorable conditions, the buds can bloom almost without interruption for 2 years.

It should be noted that after self-propagation by cuttings or root offspring, new plants do not turn out to be as compact and dense as those purchased in a store.

Outdoor chrysanthemums are sold in plastic containers. Such flowers are planted in open ground, or left in containers, used for container gardening, patio decoration, and the entrance to the house. After flowering, the stems are cut, containers with roots are sent to the basement or loggia for the winter. If outdoor chrysanthemum is kept indoors, its leaves will turn yellow and dry. These plants need fresh air and a certain lighting regime - the night is longer than the day.

Varieties of chrysanthemums for growing in pots

Thanks to the efforts of breeders, geneticists and agrochemists, plants have been bred that can bloom profusely and for a long time in a room. In total, about 40 hybrid varieties of chrysanthemums have been created for indoor cultivation. Inflorescences may be smaller or the same size as in outdoor plants. Often varieties are grouped by origin from one natural species.

Chrysanthemum Indian

In nature, it is a relatively low herbaceous plant. The leaves are toothed, green-gray. The inflorescence is a basket resembling a chamomile with yellow petals and the same core. It is the ancestor of small-flowered hybrids for growing on the windowsill and balcony.

The Indian chrysanthemum was crossed with species having white and pink inflorescences. Breeders with the help of chemicals that affect growth, have received compact forms 20-25 cm high. Today there are a large number of different forms and varieties that do well in the room, are in high demand. The flower is liked and appreciated for the richness of color and long flowering, which is especially attractive in the cold period of time.

Popular varieties of chrysanthemums in indoor floriculture:

• "Golden Gloria" - dense bushes with a large number of large yellow inflorescences.
• "Old Gold" - plants with petals of an unusual reddish-bronze color.
• "Morifolium" - a variety with large simple, semi-double and double inflorescences 5 cm in diameter.

Chrysanthemum Chinese or mulberry

A group of varieties and hybrids, for the creation of which several species were used. Plants for indoor floriculture have a compact shape, thin, highly branched stems 20–25 cm high. The leaves are saturated green, 7 cm long and 4–5 cm wide. Dotted glands are visible on the upper side of the leaf blade. Inflorescences of Chinese chrysanthemums - simple, semi-double and double, of various sizes and colors.

Chrysanthemum care at home

Buy a plant in a flower shop or accept as a gift. In any case, it is necessary to create conditions in the new room so that the buds do not fall off. Planting and caring for a chrysanthemum in a room is different from open ground and a greenhouse.

Lighting, temperature control

Light affects flowering and bud opening. The amount of light that is provided by placing the pot on the windowsill of a plastic or wooden window facing west and east is suitable. Hitting the rays at noon can cause leaf burns, in this situation it is recommended to shade the plant. A young bush blooms with a day length of 6-8 hours in October or November (depending on the region).

The temperature comfortable for room chrysanthemum is 18–23 ° С. The variety, more demanding on the conditions of detention, reacts to the heat by dropping buds and leaves. It is advisable to spray the plant with water more often in summer to reduce the temperature. You can leave it in front of an open window, the chrysanthemum is not afraid of drafts.

Watering and feeding

The soil in the pot should always be moist. Chrysanthemum indoor prefers frequent irrigation, but not excessive. Stagnation of water in a pot can lead to root rot, the spread of fungal and bacterial diseases.

1. The substrate must not be allowed to dry out.
2. In autumn and winter, water once a week in the morning.
3. Watering in spring and summer is carried out 2 times a week in the evening.
4. In the heat, spray water near indoor plants to reduce air temperature.
5. Used for irrigation and spraying settled water. If it is hard, then a white coating accumulates on the surface of the soil.
6. Avoid getting drops on the flowers.

Abundantly flowering chrysanthemums require more frequent fertilization. Spend liquid top dressing once a week until the end of flowering. It is advisable to use complex fertilizers with the addition of trace elements. Actively growing shoots need nitrogen; during budding and flowering, more potassium and phosphorus are required. Feed the plant in a pot about 12 hours after watering.

Pruning and shaping the bush

The purchased plant retains its original shape for a long time. If in the future the growth of shoots is not regulated, then several long stems appear, which reduces the decorative effect.

• Perform pinching of rapidly growing shoots. Small-flowered chrysanthemums will require 2 or 3 treatments.
• Large-flowered hybrids can be formed in the form of a tree, for which the main shoot is shortened and the lower branches are cut off.
• Pinching out inflorescences that are starting to fade helps to increase the number of new buds.

Pruning is needed in case of delayed flowering. Selective pinching of the tops of the peduncles will ensure the flow of nutrients to the remaining buds.

Plant transplant

Young and old plants need to update the substrate. Transfer to a deeper and wider pot once a year - in spring or early summer. The substrate is prepared from garden soil, peat and humus (1:1:1). You can use ready-made soil for indoor flowers.

For chrysanthemums, such indicators as loose structure, lightness, moisture capacity and nutritional value of the soil (mechanical composition and fertility) are important.

After transplantation, young offspring are covered with a plastic cup, adult plants with a plastic bag. Provide at first diffused lighting, do not forget about watering.

Features of care after flowering

After the end of flowering, weak and diseased shoots are removed. Some growers recommend trimming the stems, leaving short sections above the surface of the substrate. After that, the soil is watered and the pot is removed in a cool, dry place until spring.

You can do without radical pruning at the root, leave the chrysanthemum in its original form on the windowsill in the room. The third option: to stimulate the growth of shoots and form a compact bush, pruning is done, but the pot is not removed. A strong chrysanthemum in the same season will start new shoots and bloom.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums at home

Adult chrysanthemums "acquire" root offspring (kids). From these additional shoots, young plants can be grown. Root offspring are carefully separated from the mother bush, planted in small containers. It is necessary to keep the depth of the plant at the same level. To do this, increase the height of the drainage layer or place the roots higher. Cover the seedlings with a plastic cup. In the autumn of the same year, young plants will bloom.

Rooting stem cuttings:

1. Cut off young shoots from an adult plant.
2. Fill a transparent plastic cookie or cake container with well-washed sand.
3. Planted cuttings, cover with a lid from the container.
4. After the formation of roots and the appearance of new leaves, young plants are transplanted into a pot.

Chrysanthemums are difficult to grow from seed. Hybrid varieties are often sterile. Usually, during seed propagation of chrysanthemums, varietal characteristics are not preserved.

The main problems when growing a plant

Why do leaves turn yellow?

Chrysanthemum leaves change color due to improper care and diseases. Yellowing may be due to lack of light, water, hot air from the radiator. The appearance of grayish-yellow or brown spots with a yellow border is a sign of a fungal infection. If yellowing is due to poor care, then it is easier to correct this deficiency than to treat plant diseases.

Chrysanthemum does not bloom - why?

Typical reasons for the absence of buds and flowers are a lack or excess of lighting. Chrysanthemum is a short day plant. If there is artificial lighting in the room in the morning and in the evening, then the biorhythms go astray. Another reason is associated with the rapid growth of stems and leaves, which happens with an excess of top dressing and no pruning.

Diseases and pests of room chrysanthemum

The plant is prone to rust, powdery mildew, gray and black rot. These fungal infections are treated with houseplant fungicides. Chrysanthemum aphids, black sciarid midges, soil mites, springtails harm. The leaves are treated with a solution of Actellik, Fitoverm or Bazudin. For spraying, flowers are taken out to the balcony. Window sills, window frames are washed with a solution of soda and soap.

After the death of the pests, the topsoil in the pot is changed to a depth of 2 cm. It is recommended that you carefully consider the choice of substrate. Usually, pathogens and plant pests are contained in the soil brought from the garden.

It is very important to isolate the affected plant from the rest of the green pets in the room, to carry out pest and disease control in a timely manner. Then the chrysanthemums will remain healthy, will delight in flowering for a long time.

Chrysanthemums decorate our gardens with bright colors from July until late autumn, when most other plants have long since finished flowering. Despite rain, wind and cold, a mass of bright flowers with a cold, bitter aroma keeps on chrysanthemum bushes until late autumn.

Joe Lewis

The Latin name for chrysanthemum is hrysanthemum, which comes from the Greek. χρῡσανθής - "golden-colored"; due to the yellow color of the inflorescences.

Chrysanthemum is a genus of annual and perennial herbaceous plants of the Aster family, or Compositae, close to the genera Yarrow and Tansy, where many types of chrysanthemums often move.

• Shoots glabrous or pubescent.
• The leaves are arranged in the next order, simple, entire, serrated, notched or dissected, different in size and shape, pubescent and not, mostly light green.
• The flowers are small, collected in a basket, in some species large, consisting, as a rule, of median tubular yellow flowers and reed marginal, variously colored and usually arranged in a single row; in many hybrid varieties, they are multi-rowed and form the so-called "terry" inflorescence.
• The fruit is a seed.

jfh686

garden chrysanthemums differ in height and shape of the bush, flowering time, color, doubleness, size and type of inflorescences. Some garden chrysanthemums grow up to 1.5 m, while others reach only 35-40 cm. widest range.

Chrysanthemums come from the Far East and have been known to man since ancient times. The Chinese were the first to cultivate these amazing plants in pots almost 3,000 years ago. It is believed that the spider-like varieties of chrysanthemums were the first to be domesticated, which were used in cooking and medicine, and later began to be grown for beauty. To this day, for the Chinese, chrysanthemums are not only a magical plant of ancient beliefs, but also a popular spice and a favorite decoration of premises.

Together with Buddhism from China to Japan in the VI century came the tradition of growing large-flowered chrysanthemums in pots, the Japanese call them kotengiku, or ancient chrysanthemums. However, like many other things, the cultivation of chrysanthemums in Japan has acquired its own unique culture and sophisticated methods. The Japanese attach special importance to chrysanthemums of different colors and the rituals of their presentation. Ancient types of chrysanthemums are preserved in their original form; such plants are still grown in gardens at temples. Chrysanthemum is a favorite flower of the Japanese, a symbol of longevity, as well as an important part of their national culture and the emblem of the country.

Dave Crosby

Peculiarities

Lighting: The plant is photophilous, you need shading from direct sunlight in the hottest hours.

Watering: Abundant - the soil should be moist all the time, but not too damp.

reproduction: usually by cuttings, seeds and dividing the bush.

Air humidity: Prefers occasional spraying. (More for hygiene reasons than for hydration.)

Transfer: Young plants are transplanted annually, old ones - after a couple of years. Mostly the plant is transplanted in the spring. Chrysanthemums are not demanding on soil and will grow well in ordinary garden soil, to which a little humus and sand are added. The only condition is that chrysanthemums do not like acidic soils. To enhance branching, pinching and pruning are used.

top dressing: spring-summer - 1 time in 2 weeks with mineral and organic fertilizers,
winter-autumn - without top dressing.

Waqas Aleem

Planting and propagation of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are thermophilic, so it is important not to make a mistake with the landing site in the garden. To grow chrysanthemums, you need an elevated sunny place and well-permeable, slightly acidic or neutral, well-drained soil.

The lack of illumination of chrysanthemums leads to stretching of the shoots, to the weakening of plants and a shift in the flowering time characteristic of this variety.

Chrysanthemums for good growth and beautiful flowering need enough nutrients, so chrysanthemums grow very well on rich soils. If the soil in your garden is infertile and dense, then before planting the cuttings, it is advisable to add rotted manure, compost, peat.

Before planting chrysanthemums, apply complex fertilizer or rotted manure to the soil.
It is better to plant plants not in holes, but in a trench. The distance between planted cuttings is from 30 to 50 cm, it depends on the characteristics of the variety.

After planting the cuttings of chrysanthemums, we spill the earth in the trench with a solution of "Kornevin" (1 g per liter of water). This drug promotes the formation of a powerful root system in the cuttings. This means that the feeding area of ​​the young chrysanthemum will increase, and as a result, a strong plant will develop.

Having planted cuttings of chrysanthemums in the garden, it is necessary to cover the seedlings with covering material. It creates a favorable microclimate: it protects young chrysanthemums from hot rays, and warms them during a cold snap.

Chrysanthemums are easily propagated by dividing the bush. In the spring, when the return frosts are over, dig up the bush and divide the young shoots. Immediately plant shoots with roots in the garden and water.

You can propagate chrysanthemums and cuttings. In the spring, cut green shoots 10-15 cm long, treat the lower part with Kornevin, plant and cover with newspapers (newspapers retain moisture well). Then you need to water the cuttings of chrysanthemums as the soil dries. Soon the cuttings take root.

Chrysanthemum garden, or Chrysanthemum Chinese. © Costel Slincu

Watering and feeding chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum is very moisture-loving, so the plant must be watered abundantly before flowering. It is better to water chrysanthemums with soft water - rain or settled (you can add 2-3 drops of ammonia to the water). With a lack of water, the stems of chrysanthemums coarsen, and the leaves and flowers look less attractive.

Chrysanthemum loves to "eat" organic matter and is responsive to mineral nutrition. To feed chrysanthemums, you can purchase various ready-made mineral fertilizers. At the beginning of growing young chrysanthemums, it is better to use nitrogen fertilizers to build up green mass, and then phosphorus-potassium fertilizers for better flowering.

Water chrysanthemums with top dressing only at the root, remember: mineral fertilizers that have fallen on the leaves will cause a burn.

Nitrogen affects the height of plants, the number of shoots, the color intensity of leaves and inflorescences, and the size of the flower. A lack of nitrogen causes chlorosis (yellowing) of the leaves, while small, nondescript inflorescences form in the chrysanthemum. To build up the green mass of chrysanthemums, you can use ammonia nitrogen, and at the stage of bud formation - nitrates.

When the chrysanthemum forms a strong bush and reaches the budding phase, we switch to phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Phosphorus contributes to the abundant and prolonged flowering of chrysanthemums, increases their immunity. You can add phosphorus to the soil at the rate of 50 g per 1 m of area, as well as bone meal.

Potassium also has a positive effect on the health of chrysanthemums and the beauty of their inflorescences. Potassium sulphate is considered the best potash fertilizer for growing profusely flowering chrysanthemums.

With the development of young chrysanthemums, it is especially important to provide them with good nutrition in the first 6-8 weeks, when there is an active increase in the vegetative mass. At this time, feed chrysanthemums with fertilizers with the formula N: P: K - 2: 1: 1, using ready-made complex fertilizers with trace elements.

It is very good to use mullein, only burned out, for feeding chrysanthemums, you can also use chicken droppings. But remember the rule: it is better not to feed the plant than to burn it.

Put 2 buckets of mullein or 1 bucket of chicken manure in a large barrel, fill everything with water, stir and insist for three days - a valuable concentrated fertilizer is ready. To feed plants, you can make a solution: take one liter of the resulting concentrated infusion and add ten liters of water to it. Fertilize the chrysanthemums in the garden with this diluted infusion, adding one liter of solution under each plant. Fertilizer watering of chrysanthemums should be done only under the root and, which is also important, already on moist soil.

Guilhem Vellut

Forcing chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums lend themselves perfectly to forcing (forcing is a technique by which a plant comes out of dormancy, begins to grow and blooms at an unusual time for it).

Chrysanthemum is a short-day culture - that is, the formation of flowers in this plant depends on the duration of the light period.

Experts have found that the laying of flower buds in the chrysanthemum inflorescence occurs in two stages. First, with a day length of not more than 14.5 hours, a receptacle is formed. The longer this period, the larger it becomes, and the larger the diameter of the basket inflorescence. Then the chrysanthemum flowers begin to form. This process proceeds most intensively when the day length is less than 13.5 hours.

Sufficiently high-quality cutting of chrysanthemums can be obtained if the plants are immediately set to a day length of 10 hours. Different varieties of chrysanthemums have a different reaction to the duration of illumination, and therefore they bloom in different ways: after 6-15 weeks from the beginning of a short day.

Particularly suitable for forcing varieties of chrysanthemums from the Branchy group.

Most cut chrysanthemums require 2-4 weeks of growth after planting with a long day (more than 14.5 hours) to develop the required number of leaves and internodes. Then 6-12 weeks the growth of chrysanthemums takes place with a short day (less than 13 hours).

If you follow these conditions for keeping the plant, then the chrysanthemum will bloom by any desired date - for a birthday, for the New Year, by March 8, by September 1!

rose woman

reproduction

For planting, chrysanthemum seedlings, chrysanthemum seeds and cuttings are used - depending on the variety. Sowing of chrysanthemums, which are propagated by seeds, is carried out in May directly into the ground in holes of 3-4 pieces at a distance of 25 cm. In this case, flowering will be in early August. For earlier flowering, the seeds should be sown in March in a heated room, when the seedlings grow up, they dive into pots and planted in the ground at the end of May. In this case, flowering occurs at the end of June.

To obtain cuttings in the fall after the flowering of chrysanthemums, the best specimens can be left for the winter as mother plants. Faded shoots are cut off near the ground in a pot, as they die off after flowering. Mother plants are used for cuttings. Cut chrysanthemums can be left in pots in cool rooms. It is necessary to water a little, so that the plants do not fade. Cuttings for planting are taken in March only from the apical offspring emerging from the ground from the roots. Take cuttings from shoots on old stems should not be.

Cuttings are made in bowls or in boxes. Humus with peat is poured from below, and a layer of sand of 2-3 cm is poured on top. The cuttings are cut with a sharp knife to make a smooth cut, which is best done under the leaf node. In this case, rooting goes better.

Planting of chrysanthemums is carried out shallow in the sand, the cuttings are sprayed and covered with a glass cap. The best temperature for rooting is 13-15 degrees. After rooting (after 18-20 days), the glass is removed, young plants are planted in small pots and placed in a cool, well-ventilated room.

But most often, after flowering, the plants are thrown away, since now the most diverse seedlings of chrysanthemums are on sale almost all year round. When buying seedlings, you need to pay attention not only to the fact that the plant is healthy, but also to the number of buds in which the tips of unopened flowers of the baskets should be visible. If the plant is purchased with green buds, the flowers from these buds may not open.

Ching

Diseases and pests

Diseases of chrysanthemums are mainly associated with care errors: insufficient watering or too high air temperature in which the plant is contained. Of the pests, chrysanthemums are affected by aphids and spider mites. To kill aphids, the plant is washed with soapy water. The treatment must be repeated every 7-10 days.

Good results are obtained by treating plants with pyrethrum. The solution is prepared as follows: 200 gr. pyrethrum powder insist in 10 liters of water for 12 hours, then take 50 ml. infusion, diluted in 10 liters of water and add 50 gr. soap.

The water extract of garlic is very effective in the fight against aphids, spider mites and other pests. Take 50 gr. crush the garlic in a mortar and pour a glass of cold water. After 15-20 minutes, strain the mass and dilute with water, bringing the volume to 1 liter. This solution should be taken 1.5 cups per bucket of water and in the evening or in cloudy weather, wash the plants. You can treat the plant with an insecticide.

Alejandro Bayer Tamayo

Chrysanthemum is a symbol of longevity, happiness and prosperity. Spray chrysanthemums look like daisies, so they remind us of summer and the sun. Looking forward to your advice!

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Why does chrysanthemum sometimes not bloom at home?

Often, novice flower growers wonder why chrysanthemum does not bloom at home. As a rule, a healthy plant should bloom every autumn, even in an apartment or house. But many factors can lead to the absence of buds on a plant.

It is possible to achieve flowering of chrysanthemums at home thanks to proper care.

Indoor chrysanthemum is loved by many for its beauty and relative unpretentiousness compared to other flowers. But every loving plant owner wants to see bright flowers on it that will create an atmosphere of joy and positive in the room.

Mistakes in care

Usually chrysanthemums begin to bloom in the second year of life. Sometimes the plant produces buds in the first year, but in this case it is advisable to cut them off so that in the future the chrysanthemum will bloom as abundantly as possible.

The main reasons for the lack of buds in a healthy chrysanthemum are improper care.

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Poor lighting and insufficient feeding

Chrysanthemums need good lighting.

One of the most common reasons for the lack of buds is improper lighting. Moreover, it can be both an excess and a lack of light. As a rule, then the absence of buds on the chrysanthemum is accompanied by the paleness of the leaves and their relatively small size.

Chrysanthemum loves that the place where it is located is illuminated with normal light for about 8 hours a day. Any drastic decrease or increase in daylight hours will force the plant to take its time to flower. At the same time, indoor varieties of chrysanthemums adore bright sunlight.

Some of them even prefer to be under the direct sun if possible. Such chrysanthemums should be placed on the southern windows in the summer so that they bloom well by autumn. But still, most varieties prefer bright, but diffused light. Therefore, in order for the chrysanthemum to start releasing buds in the fall, you should keep it closer to the window covered with tulle all summer.

Chrysanthemums need to be fed from time to time.

Improper feeding is also often the cause of the lack of flowers in adult chrysanthemums. So, if fertilizers have never been applied to the soil during the entire life cycle, then one should not be surprised that the chrysanthemum does not release buds. For flowering, you need to try starting from spring to add special fertilizers to the soil for flowering houseplants.

If top dressing is regular, but incorrect, the chrysanthemum can also respond to them accordingly. For a lush flowering bush, fertilizing should be carried out every two weeks with preparations that contain a large amount of potassium and phosphorus in their composition. But top dressing must be dosed in order to prevent an excess of nutrients in the soil.

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Lack of cuts and violation of the temperature regime

Chrysanthemums, like most potted bush crops, need periodic pruning and pinching. You should start pinching chrysanthemums from the first year of life. This will contribute not only to the development of a lush rounded bush, but also to the active budding of the plant. Pruning should be carried out only on sufficiently mature plants, in which the shoots actively grow upwards, without giving a sufficient number of side branches.

Chrysanthemums need pruning after flowering.

Of great importance for the annual flowering of chrysanthemums at home is the pruning of peduncles, on which the flowers have already departed. This needs to be done every fall. Indeed, during flowering, the plant spends a huge amount of nutrients on the formation of buds. And it is important after flowering to protect the chrysanthemum from wasting nutrients in vain.

Also, the absence of flowers on the chrysanthemum may be the result of an incorrect temperature regime. It is very important that until the end of budding, the chrysanthemum is in a room with a temperature of about 20-22 ° C. But as soon as the plant fades, you need to place a pot of chrysanthemum in a cold place where the thermometer ranges from 1 ° C to 5 ° C.

Such a sharp change in temperature will enable the chrysanthemum to recover properly after a period of active growth and flowering. Then next year even more beautiful and large buds will definitely appear on your favorite plant.

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How to speed up the flowering of chrysanthemums

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Many flower growers complain that large-flowered chrysanthemums, especially Indian ones, do not have time to bloom before frost. How to speed up this process?

Medium and early varieties of chrysanthemums are grown in open ground, as the early ones bloom in August, and the middle ones in October and even in November. It is advisable to dig up annual plants for the winter, but you can dig in and cover like roses. Sow in open ground in early May.

It is preferable to plant chrysanthemums in places that are not shaded, protected by the response. These plants love loosened soil, which contains substances of organic origin and has good moisture and air permeability.

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It is recommended to apply 80 g of superphosphate, 40 g of nitrogen fertilizer and 150 g of potassium magnesia per 1 square meter of planting. Chrysanthemums are fed once a week with mineral fertilizers at the rate of 5-9 liters per 1 sq. m.

To avoid fungal diseases, it is necessary to treat flowers 2-3 times during the summer period with copper chloride. With the onset of September, processing stops, as white spots may appear on the leaves.

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When an apical bud appears, it is advisable to feed the flowers with a solution of superphosphate at the rate of 100 g per 1 liter of water. The solution is infused for 3-5 days with occasional stirring. Chrysanthemums respond well to feeding with mullein diluted in water. Watering is done under the root.

When the buds increase in size, but still do not open, they must be treated several times with any aphid preparation. This is done several times every 7-9 days. Otherwise, in a blossoming inflorescence, the tips of the petals may turn black and be eaten by aphids.

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When dividing, the bush is cut into pieces with 1-3 shoots. For better lighting, plants are recommended to be planted in a checkerboard pattern or in parallel rows. Usually one stem plants are planted at a distance of 25 cm, and many stem plants - 30-40 cm from each other.

It is important to be able to store chrysanthemums in winter so that next year they can please you with their lush color.

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If in summer the chrysanthemum requires a lot of moisture, then in autumn and winter it does not tolerate it at all. So that in winter the roots of chrysanthemums do not die, they must be stored as follows. Before laying for storage, chrysanthemum mother liquors planted in pots are watered abundantly with water.

Then kept warm for 10 days at a temperature of 15-20 degrees. At this time, the root system is growing.

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In winter, it is advisable to store pots with chrysanthemum roots in a cellar (if any) at a temperature of 0 to 4 degrees Celsius. If there is no cellar, you can create another method of storage at the above temperature.

If the growth begins to wither, snow is poured in a layer of 5-7 cm. Snow retains oxygen, slowly soaks into the soil and maintains its porosity. It is recommended to spray the roots once in the winter with water with the addition of a fungicide.

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Tips from amateur gardeners - How to speed up the flowering of chrysanthemums

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1. Treat with Zircon 1 ml per 10 liters of water, even indoor violets bloom in a month.

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2. Use drugs based on gibberellin - a hormone produced by the plant during flowering. The most common - Ovary.
Spray once a week for months - this raises the hormonal status to the desired level and the plant begins to bloom - including the chrysanthemum.
3. Shade chrysanthemums after 7pm.
4. Abundant phosphorus top dressing once a week - potassium monophosphate - 1 hour. l per 10 liters per 2 bushes of chrysanthemums.
5. To speed up the flowering of chrysanthemums, you need to remove some of the flower ovaries and fertilize with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers!

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6. Do not water the chrysanthemum in the second half of summer, or rather, water it less often.
7. First of the season, shorten her daylight hours. How? In greenhouses, I don’t know, but on the ground: make cone-shaped caps from cardboard and other materials, put them on at 6-7 pm, and take them off in the morning after the sun rises high enough above the horizon.The birthplace of the chrysanthemum is the south, where the sun rises and sets quickly, i.e. no dusk. So you can speed up flowering by 1-2 weeks.

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In order for chrysanthemums to please with lush flowering for a long time, it is necessary to properly prepare the soil, plant it on time, feed and water it at the right time, and do not forget about the formation of a bush and shelter for the winter. And if desired, flowering can be extended by transplanting chrysanthemums into pots and decorating them with a window sill in a city apartment.

WE PREPARE THE PLACE OF RESIDENCE

As we already mentioned, chrysanthemums prefer a sunny, wind-protected place. Good predecessors are perennial grasses, legumes and ornamental plants with an annual development cycle, preferably not from the aster family. Chrysanthemums can be returned to their old place no earlier than after 2 years. Planting in areas where potatoes and tomatos were grown in the previous year should also be avoided.

A place for chrysanthemums has been prepared since autumn. First, they dig to a depth of 20-30 cm. Then, if the soil pH is below 6.5, they are limed with chalk, preferably powdered (400-500 g per 1 m 2). Since autumn, superphosphate is also added (40-50 g per 1 m 2), potassium salt (20-30 g per 1 m 2).

In the spring, as soon as the earth dries out slightly, the site is again dug up and harrowed, and just before planting, it is treated with a universal cutter. Spring digging is carried out at a shallower depth than in autumn, so as not to turn weed seeds to the surface. Before planting, humus is introduced: 1-2 buckets per 1 m 2.

Chrysanthemums are planted on a hill, that is, in flower beds, rabatka, beds 20-30 cm high and at least 1 m wide. The distance between plants depends on the size of the bushes and the number of stems in the adult state. For sprawling and branched medium-sized plants, the planting pattern can be 40x50, for undersized curbs - 30x40 cm. The preparation of the seat is completed 2-4 days before planting the seed garden.

WE BUY PLANTING MATERIAL

Chrysanthemums are bought in the form of seedlings or rooted cuttings, which are then grown on their own. Cuttings should be bought in April, and seedlings at the end of May. When choosing a variety, keep in mind that for the middle lane, chrysanthemums of early flowering (July-August) or medium (September-October-October) and not too high (up to 1.2 m) are preferable.

Buy planting material should not be in the markets, but in botanical gardens, horticultural firms, specialized flower farms.

Before purchasing plants, ask the seller for their full characteristics: variety name, adult size, stem strength, winter hardiness, growing characteristics.

Refuse to buy if you find out that the plants you have chosen are grown in the south or grew year-round in orange-ray. Remember, the beautiful appearance of the planting material is not a guarantee of its viability in the future. Be especially careful with imported chrysanthemums. As a rule, they are sold with processed inhibitors (development retarders) or growth substances. As a result, from a giant plant you will get a dwarf or vice versa.

PLANTING ACCORDING TO THE RULES

We plant chrysanthemums when the danger of spring frosts has passed and the soil warms up to a level of 12-14 ° C at a depth of 15-20 cm. In the Moscow region, this happens in the first days of June, south - at the end of May. For planting choose cool and cloudy days. In hot and windy weather, planting material survives much worse.

For better illumination of plants, planting is carried out in a checkerboard pattern. Holes are preliminarily made that exceed the size of the root system along with the soil clod, but not deeper than 35 cm. Drainage from expanded clay and sand is placed at the bottom, covered with humus or limed peat, seasoned with fertilizer (50 g of chalk and 10 g of Kemira-universal per bucket ). After this, the soil in the hole is moistened, and in hot sunny weather it is poured with water.

3-5 hours before planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly to better preserve the earthy coma. Then the plants are knocked out of pots or cups and placed in the prepared hole so that the base of the stem is at the same soil level as in the seedling dish. In this case, the root neck should not be deepened by more than 2 cm.

After planting, the soil around the bush is slightly compacted, a hole is made and watered. If the height of the seedling stems is 30 cm or more, they are tied to stakes. It is better to make them from the branches of coniferous trees, having cleared them of the bark. Stakes are installed from the side of the prevailing wind direction at a distance of 5-8 cm from the stem and driven into the soil to a depth of 20-25 cm. They are tied with twine or bast: they do not slip on blue wood.

For better moisture conservation, plantings are mulched with peat humus with sand or leafy soil, or pine needles.

Before planting, do not forget to place signs with the names of varieties near the holes. They can be metal, painted with oil paint, woodenor plastic.

FORMING BUSHES

Most varieties of Korean chrysanthemums grown in open ground are small and medium-flowered. Their formation mainly consists in pinching shoots that violate the given or naturally formed shape of the bush, and in removing buds that appear in spring and early summer.

To get well-branched bushes, pinch small-flowered varieties 1 or 2 times. Moreover, they do this with an interval of at least 30 days. The number of pinches depends on the degree of branching of the bush. If after the first 7-12 runs are formed, the second is not carried out.

Pinching is the removal of the upper part of the shoot. It is carried out during the active growth of the bush, before the formation of buds. Mid-flowered chrysanthemums are pinched when the central shoot reaches a height of 10-12 cm and a bush of 3-5 shoots is formed. With small-flowered proceed as follows. When grown with one pinch, the top of the central shoot is removed above the 8-10th leaf. With two pinches, the top of the central shoot (above the 6-8th leaf) is removed for the first time, and the tops of the side shoots (above the 3-5th leaf) are removed for the second time.

Otherwise, large-flowered cut varieties are formed (more than 10 cm in diameter). They are pinched or cut off with a stem length of 10-15 cm and the formation of 6-8 leaves, leaving 4-6. Do it once or twice. The second pinching is carried out over the 2-3rd leaf, when the lateral shoot is 10-12 cm. But this should be done no later than June.

In addition to pinching, large-flowered chrysanthemums remove shoots that develop from the axils of the leaves, that is, stepchildren. Simultaneously with the shoots, lateral buds are also plucked. They do this starting from mid-July every day, and in August and September-October every 3 days. Stepchildren should be removed when they can be easily plucked out with your fingers without touching the stem and leaves.

Bud pinching is the same technique usually applied to large-flowered chrysanthemums. It consists in choosing the best inflorescence. But in order to decide which of the buds to bet on, you need to know how their development is going.

The first bud, zero or spring, appears in May - early June. But its development is suppressed by the next shoot of the 2nd order, on which a bud develops, called the first crown. However, it may not develop due to the growth of a third-order shoot, at the end of which a bud also develops - already the second crown, and then the third crown appears.

Observations over many years have established that flowers of the best quality are formed from the first or second crown of a new bud. Therefore, one of them is left, and the other is removed. They also get rid of the spring and third crown buds.

In medium and small-flowered varieties, buds can also be pinched. On these chrysanthemums, the best inflorescences form the second crown buds after pinching twice. The size of the flowers can be further increased if 3-5 flower-bearing shoots are left on the bush and one inflorescence on each.

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WE CARE AND PROTECT

Chrysanthemum care includes the following work: periodic weeding and loosening (every 8-10 days), watering under the root, fertilizing, if necessary, tying fast-growing stems to stakes, collecting and removing old leaves, especially in the lower part of the bush , pruning shoots (before flowering), mulching the soil surface with peat, straw or chopped bark.

WATERING

Chrysanthemums are watered only under the root, the leaves are not sprayed with water. In the first half of summer, when shoots grow and buds are tied, in hot sunny weather, plants are watered as the soil dries up, on average 2-3 times a week. Watering can be alternated with loosening, which replaces it. During budding, water less often - about 1-2 times a week - and very rarely during flowering. In dry autumn, fading chrysanthemums again need to be watered, as they have buds of renewal at this time. Therefore, in September they are watered 3 times a month, and abundantly.

FEEDING

12 days after planting, chrysanthemums are fed with nitrogen fertilizer - ammonium nitrate swarm (25-30 g / m 2) or organic matter (bird droppings or mullein, fermented and diluted 20 times). In the second half of summer, when buds appear, top dressing should be phosphorus-potassium, at the rate of 20 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m 2.

Dry top dressing is carried out during rain or along with watering. But it is better to apply fertilizers in the form of solutions. To do this, the above doses are dissolved in 10 liters of water and at least 0.5 liters are poured onto each bush. They are fed carefully so that fertilizers do not fall on young leaves and especially the growth point, and if this happens, they should be washed off immediately with clean water.

DEFENCE FROMZAMOROZKOV

In order to save chrysanthemums from short-term frosts in autumn and prolong flowering, in October a frame about 2 m high is placed above them and a film is pulled over it. Then flowering will continue for another whole month.

If chrysanthemums bloom at the end of September, and you want to start admiring them at the beginning of the month, reduce the daylight hours for them to 10 hours in August by covering them with a cardboard box or black non-woven film for 2 hours in the morning and evening. Then your chrysanthemum-we will bloom 1-2 weeks earlier.

Korean chrysanthemums successfully overwinter in the open field if they are properly prepared. Such preparation consists in preserving the root growth, if any, in late summer or autumn, and cutting the plants to a height of 15 to 25 cm above the soil immediately after flowering.

In mid-October, bushes are mulched with pine needles, straw with a layer of 3 cm and spud with humus or peat. When the temperature drops to a level of 3-5 ° C (in late October - early November), small spruce branches or oak branches, thorny shrubs without leaves are placed on top of the shelter for snow retention. Keep in mind that fallen leaves cannot be used to cover chrysanthemums.

In the spring, in April, an additional shelter is removed so that the young shoots do not warm up. The earth under the bush is slightly loosened, and after the appearance of the overgrowth, the earthen mound is finally leveled.

If you decide to grow heat-loving, tall, cut and late flowering varieties, then it is better to dig them out of the ground in August-September and place them in a cool room (with the same temperature at which they were on the site ). It can be a basement (only dry) of a suburban one, better still heated at home. Humidity in it should be no more than 75%, and the temperature should not exceed 10 ° C.

If chrysanthemums stored in the basement have sprouted shoots in winter, remove their upper part so that 2-3 nodes remain on the stem.

At the same time, keep in mind that such shoots are very weak and cannot be used for cuttings.

Previously, plants dug out with a large clod of earth are cleaned of dried shoots, dying leaves. They are placed in boxes or pots filled with a fresh fertile mixture, consisting of 2 parts of humus, 1 part of peat, 0.5 parts of sand and 2 parts of leafy soil (in extreme cases, it can be replaced with turf).

Gradually lowering the temperature in the place of storage, bring it to a level of 5-6 ° C by November and leave this until the end of February. During this period, the plants are watered no more than two or three times a month.

But since March, chrysanthemums need light, and then they are transferred to a glazed veranda, a terrace with a higher temperature than in the basement (10-12 ° C). Only under this condition will the shoots be able to successfully develop and not be elongated, they will acquire a normal green color. 10 days after the transfer of the chrysanthemum, it is advisable to feed it with ammonium nitrate (at the rate of 30-50 g per 10 l of water), and then with complete mineral fertilizer (20-30 g per 10 l of water).

In late May - early June, overwintered bushes are planted in open ground, increasing their feeding area by 1.5-2 times.