What you need for wiring in the house. Do-it-yourself wiring in the house - design and installation rules. Marking and preparation of channels for electrical wiring

A modern apartment, house, office or commercial establishment cannot be imagined without electricity. It has tightly entered our lives and continues to capture more and more new spheres of life. The functioning of the facility depends on how high-quality the wiring in the room is and how smoothly it works - without electricity, lighting, electric boilers, air conditioners, computers, etc. are turned off. Therefore, if you are thinking about creating a full-fledged wiring diagrams in a private house , then read our article - in it we will talk about the intricacies and nuances of this case.

Before planning the location of cables, you need to draw up a plan for the location of equipment and lighting in all rooms, in technical rooms, in outbuildings and on the street. You need to get away from him. If, for example, two or three sockets are enough in the hall to connect a TV and a floor lamp, then several lines must be led to the kitchen to connect a powerful washing machine and dishwasher, a microwave and an electric kettle, an electric boiler and a hob.

The classic scheme for connecting a house

The calculation should be done taking into account all consumers that will be connected + stock + think about what else you will connect to the network in the future. For example, if you plan to hit a well, then you will need to power a powerful engine, if you plan to put a machine in the garage, then think about which cable will withstand the desired current strength. At the first stage, it is necessary to draw up a detailed plan of all electrical equipment that is and will be in the house. Consider air conditioners, video surveillance systems, landscape lighting, etc.

Then, based on the layout of consumers, a schematic diagram is drawn up do-it-yourself wiring installation in a private house . According to this scheme, the assembly will be carried out so that you do not get confused or make a mistake anywhere. Using it, it will be possible to quickly calculate the amount of the required cable, its cross section, the number of sockets and switches, determine the location of the shield and counter, stabilizers and other circuit elements. According to the scheme, all equipment is purchased and installation is carried out - it is considered fundamental.

We do the wiring

Wiring can be of two types - external or hidden. Today, hidden wiring is used almost everywhere, which is laid in strobes cut out along the walls and ceiling. External wiring is used where it is not possible to lay channels - in wooden houses, structures made of logs, timber, on the floor, etc.

Drawing wiring diagrams in a private house with your own hands, be sure to keep in mind that SNiP requires room-by-room wiring. Moreover, you need to disconnect the lines of sockets and lighting. Such a solution is more expensive than “circular” schemes, but it is safe and allows you to include powerful consumers in the network without the risk of failure of other devices. In addition, room-by-room wiring allows you to carry out repairs in one room by turning it off, while the rest will have electricity.

The division of networks into classes allows the use of cables and machines of the required power. For example, a 1.5-square wire and a 16A machine are used for lighting. This is quite enough to connect several light sources and even a powerful central chandelier. For sockets use a 2.5 square cable and a 25 amp machine. The total power per line should not exceed 4.5 kW (for example, a microwave oven, an extractor hood and an electric kettle included in one socket or line “eat” 800 + 300 + 1300 W or 2.4 kW). If you plan to connect powerful consumers (for example, a 3-4 kW boiler, washing machine, electric boiler, oven), then pull separate lines to them.

Cable routing regulations

The line goes to the electrical panel, a separate machine is installed on each according to the power. A common machine is placed at the entrance (can be used at 32 or 40A).

Separation by consumer groups

To qualitativelyeverything needs to be properly planned. Make the division of all lines and sources into groups:

Network used for lighting.
The network used to power outlets.
Power network (for powerful consumers).
Network used for street lighting.
Network for outbuildings (garage, barn, bathhouse, etc.).

These networks are drawn on separate sheets of paper indicating the dimensions of the premises and the width of the partitions. Then a calculation is made of the required amount of cable (taking into account its cross section), sockets and other devices.

If you make hidden wiring, then it is laid in strobes, after which it is plastered and the entire wall is leveled into one. If you are doing outdoor wiring, then it is laid after wall cladding, hiding the cables in special metal or plastic channels.

thinking over Consider if you need a voltage stabilizer. Modern networks are extremely unstable, the voltage in them can jump from 180 to 240 degrees, while for many devices the possible deviations are 5-10%.

Attention: the stabilizer will equalize the voltage and protect your devices from burnout, but for this you need to correctly calculate its power so that it is enough for all simultaneously operating devices.

Draw a diagram of cabling and device placement

Preparatory work

So, you decided to create the wiring on your own. To do this, you will need a set of tools:

Multimeter.
Test screwdriver.
Connectors for wires.
Pliers.
Knife for removing insulation.
Perforator and grinder with a diamond disc for making strobes.

After preparing a set of tools, it's time to start marking up future wiring. From above, the wires are launched at a height of 20 cm from the ceiling, all branches to sockets or switches are made strictly vertically. No need to try to save cable by pulling it across or obliquely in the room - this will lead to sad consequences when you decide to hang a cabinet or a picture 5 years after the repair.

Do not place switches and sockets in damp rooms. The height of their placement is regulated by SNiP or depending on the wishes of the customer. How to wire house if you need to create lighting in a humid room (for example, a sauna)? A transformer is connected to the network and a voltage of no more than 36 volts is supplied, since it is safe for humans.

How to markup correctly

Let's figure out how to build do-it-yourself wiring in the house (step-by-step diagram). Start making markings from the shield. First, draw the lines along which the main highways will pass. Think about how wide and how deep the strobe should be cut. Then think about where the wiring boxes will be located (they need to be done on connecting the wires to the mains). From the boxes, lower the sockets and switches, draw markings for the fixtures along the ceiling. When all the preparatory work is completed and the laying lines are drawn, then proceed to chasing. With the help of a grinder and a diamond disc, slots are cut to a given depth, and the second ones are cut parallel to them. Then, using a perforator or chisel, a groove is hollowed out into which the cables are laid. They are fixed inside the strobe with screeds, and then sealed with cement or asbestos.

Attention:termination is recommended after testing the system. If any cable is damaged during the installation process, then you do not have to cut the strobes again.

Proper shield connection

Installation

After marking and cutting the strobes, cables are laid in them. All connections are made in junction boxes using special plugs. You can, of course, solder the wires, but this is completely unnecessary and takes a lot of time. The plug connection is fast and reliable, the main thing is to choose original materials.

When connecting switches, you need to open the phase, not zero. The phase comes to the bottom of the cartridge, not to the side, so that you do not accidentally hook it when changing the light bulb. These are the basic rules formemorize them and follow them without fail.

After the wires are laid out, you need to connect them to the electrical panel by installing automatic machines, RCDs, and a counter in it. It can only be carried or sealed by an employee of the power supply company, so do not rush to remove it yourself - you will be fined a large amount. It is advisable to mark all cables entering the meter, stick stickers on the machines indicating what they are responsible for, or sign them with a marker. It is also advisable to stick a connection diagram on the shield door, otherwise in 5-10 years you simply won’t remember what was assembled and how.

Some nuances

We will tell you some of the subtleties of howThere are two types of cable - copper and aluminum. We strongly recommend that you use only copper cable - it can withstand heavy loads, does not deteriorate over time and fits easily even in bends. It is best to power the sockets with a 3 * 2.5 VVGng cable (non-combustible). The third cable goes to ground (many modern devices do not work without it). It’s better not to install single sockets - you simply won’t have enough of them. You need at least 4 sockets per room (even in the bedroom you turn on the phone for charging, tablet, iron and floor lamp). For halls, it is recommended to create groups of 4-6 outlets (for example, you need at least 4 to connect a computer, and if you have a printer / scanner, then all 6). In the kitchen, 4 sockets are also usually placed near the working surface (hood, electric kettle, blender, bread machine), at least 2 more are bred for other devices (refrigerator, electric boiler, boiler, etc.).

For lighting, it is advisable to use a conventional VVGng 3 * 1.5 mm2 cable - it is quite enough to power several light sources. But if you plan to create walk-through switches, then you will need to refine the circuit.

In general, an electrician in a private house complicated at first glance. If you study the relevant literature and follow all the advice, then you can quickly and efficiently collect it yourself. The main thing is not to save money, use only high-quality components and be prudent without connecting a boiler or a warm floor to the cables for lighting.

You can do an electrician in an apartment or house with your own hands, but this is quite risky. Of course, any job can be learned. But electrical is a field that requires excellent knowledge of theory and good practice. Illiterate wiring experiments can be dangerous. If you are going to conduct electricity with your own hands, you need to know the procedure and nuances of the work.

How to conduct electrical wiring in the house?

Need to start from a detailed plan. According to the wiring diagram in a private house:

you can calculate how many and what cables are needed, the size, the number of switches, sockets and distribution boxes;
determine the location of power and wiring parts;
carry out maintenance and repair of concealed wiring in the future.

The electrical network scheme depends on the type of power supply selected.

A schematic three-phase diagram and a plan diagram of a private house or apartment, made on a scale, with distribution groups are needed for high-quality electrical installation in the future.

Often in a house or apartment there is an internal and introductory electrical panel. Cables lead from the inner shield to the premises.

Main groups into which consumers are divided:

lighting;
sockets;
devices with high power;
bathroom and toilet lighting and sockets;
kitchen lighting and sockets;
commercial buildings.

When drawing up a three-phase circuit, it is necessary to provide the system with protection devices - RCDs, which are installed on each distribution group.

The wiring diagram is affected by the intended placement of household appliances and their power. They determine the number, placement of sockets and the desired cable size.

The three-phase wiring diagram in the house and in the apartment does not differ much, only by introducing electrical energy: it enters the apartment via a cable from the shield on the floor, and into the house - via an overhead line. The wiring plan in the garage involves the input of electricity from the central power line or from a house standing nearby by an underground or overhead method.

Wiring in the apartment

An apartment is, as a rule, brick or concrete walls finished with plasterboard or covered with plaster.

can be combined or hidden.

There may be several options: the wiring can be mounted before the plaster, and then covered with it, the installation can be done by crushing the plaster, carried out in the cavities behind the drywall. To install the wiring, a pipe, PVC corrugation or a metal flexible sleeve is used; open wiring is often laid in cable channels.

In order to carry out high-quality electrical wiring in the apartment, there are certain tips and rules.

To ensure safety, in the switchboard install machines, which protect equipment from burnout and short circuit, and shutdown devices that, in the event of voltage drops, turn off the consumer. For the toilet, its own safety shutdown device is recommended due to high humidity.

The installation of electrical wiring in the bathroom has its own characteristics: there should not be junction boxes in it, and it is unacceptable to place a switch there. You can install an outlet. For a room with high humidity, it is necessary to select devices protected from moisture with grounding.

Marking for electrical wiring is carried out along strictly vertical and horizontal lines. Power lines must not cross each other. The track must always be parallel to any wall. If the wiring is under the floor, the cable must be placed at a certain distance from the wall.

Today, usually in new homes using copper wires, they are more durable than aluminum, which remained in many old apartments.

The size of the cable must be at least two square millimeters, it is always selected more than the calculated one, which is determined depending on the expected load on the network. The possible current density for copper wire should not exceed eight amperes per square millimeter. Different distribution groups require wire with different sizes.

The cable that runs in the cavities must be protected with sleeves, pipes or corrugations.

Pulling electrical wiring with sleeves, metal pipes and PVC corrugations makes it possible to replace electrics without disturbing the finish.

All cable splices must be located only in distribution boxes and they need to be accessed so that, if necessary, something can be corrected. Wires can be connected by soldering or terminals.

Wires and installation boxes are fixed under switches and sockets with plaster or plaster.

There must be at least one outlet per six square meters throughout the apartment. In rarely used rooms, for example, in the corridor, 1-2 sockets will suffice, in the kitchen it is good to put several groups of three or four sockets (this depends on the number and placement of household appliances).

It is best to use switches and sockets with ceramic interiors and copper contacts.

The placement of switches and sockets is not regulated, but it is more convenient to place sockets at a height of at least thirty centimeters from the floor. Switches are placed at a height convenient for the outstretched hand.

Wiring in a private house

Wiring in a country house is carried out according to the same principles as in a city apartment. Nevertheless, wiring in a wooden house has its own characteristics. Due to the fact that the base of the log house is combustible, it is necessary to carry out electrical wiring in a private house in compliance with safety measures.

Installation of electrical wiring in a private house should be made:

Of course, the rules are quite strict and the installation of wiring, for example, in the country, looks unreasonably time-consuming and costly. However, safety is paramount.

RCD installation

Mounting the differential relay or residual current devices are another step in achieving the safety of a wooden house.

The wiring of the electrical network can be done antique: open wiring is installed on porcelain insulators, there is a gap between the wire and the tree - the wires do not touch the walls and ceilings. This is perhaps the only relatively safe and compliant method of laying open wiring in combustible structures.

The electrification of a private house must be carried out immediately, and not in parts, and carried out before the installation of ceilings, floors and doors.

Electrification work begins from bringing the cable to the house from the central power line or an external switchboard, in accordance with the scheme, they carry out wiring in rooms, mount an internal switchboard for distribution, prepare holes for sockets and switches. After the finishing work is completed, all appliances are installed.

Watch the video below: do-it-yourself wiring in a country house.

Wherever the wires are laid, the color of the cables matters. According to clause 2.1.31 of the rules for electrical installations, electrical wiring should enable quick identification of conductors by color:

In the video you can see the separation of colors.

Laying wiring in a house or apartment is quite easy for an experienced master. But for those who do not understand electrics, you need to take the help of a specialist. Of course, you will have to spend money, but this way you can avoid mistakes that can lead to a fire.

More recently, the wiring in a private house was made of an aluminum cable with a cross section of 2.5 mm². And that was more than enough to connect a refrigerator, iron or radio.

However, time does not cost less, and every day the number of household appliances in the house only increases (air conditioners, electric stoves and ovens, boilers, autonomous heating boilers, and so on). In this regard, the load on the electrical wiring increases significantly, which can lead to its failure, followed by a short circuit or even fire.

For this reason, with new construction or repair work, it is first necessary to carry out a new installation of electrical wiring in a private house. To do this, you can either order the services of professionals, or do all the work yourself.

In the second case, it will be extremely useful to read this article, since it will describe in detail each of the stages of electrical installation and present all the basic requirements, recommendations and restrictions when performing this type of work.

The main stages of installation of electrical wiring in a private or country house

According to many years of experience in the performance of electrical work, all work can be divided into the following stages:

Drawing up a power supply scheme (number and location of sockets, switches, lamps, and so on).
Determination of the installation location of the switchboard.
Marking ceilings, walls and floors for laying cable and wire products and installing socket boxes and junction boxes.
Chasing walls for hidden electrical wiring.
Chasing walls for the installation of a switchboard (when installing an internal shield).
Drilling holes for the installation of sockets and junction boxes.
Installation of routes for fastening the corrugation (if the laying of cable and wire products will be carried out in the corrugation).
Laying of cable and wire products.
Installation of socket boxes and rough embedding of strobes.
Disconnection of junction boxes.
Installation of the ground loop.
Checking the grounding resistance of the mounted circuit.
Assembly and installation of the shield.
Check the functionality of all sockets and switches.
Installation and connection of sockets, switches and lighting fixtures.

Let us consider in more detail the main stages, in order for the installation of electrical wiring in the house to be carried out efficiently and last at least 20–25 years (this is exactly the minimum service life of copper wiring).

Drawing up a power supply scheme (project for the arrangement of sockets and switches)

During construction or overhaul, the first stage is the development of design estimates. This should be done by specialized organizations with a license. In this article, this option will not be considered, since the purpose of this article is to provide a detailed description of the do-it-yourself wiring.

In our case, the project (power supply scheme) implies determining the installation locations for sockets, switches, household appliances, lighting devices, a lighting panel and the method of laying wires (hidden or open). Consider what are the main recommendations when developing a power supply plan.

Basic recommendations when drawing up a power supply scheme for a private house

All cable and wire products, regardless of the installation option, must be carried out strictly vertically or horizontally.
Cable turns must be strictly 90°.
The minimum distance from cables to portals, window and door openings should not be less than 10–15 cm.
The optimal distance from the level of the finished floor to the switches should be 90 cm (in accordance with European standards).
The optimal height of the socket groups is 30 cm from the level of the finished floor (with the exception of sockets on the work surface in the kitchen, in the bathroom for connecting a hair dryer, razor, boiler, and so on).
Sockets are recommended to be placed on both sides of the bed or sofa.
In places where TVs are installed, the number of sockets must be at least 4 pcs (2 pcs for the Internet and a TV cable and 2 for connecting a TV and a tuner).
For large corridors and rooms, it is recommended to use walk-through switches.
All powerful consumers (air conditioners, electric furnaces and ovens, boilers, heating boilers, etc.) must be connected exclusively from a switchboard with separately installed protection.
The optimal installation height of the switchboard is 1.5–1.7 m from the level of the finished floor.
It is forbidden to lay cable and wire products closer than 20 cm to the gas pipe.
All metal elements and sockets must be grounded.

What is the usual wiring diagram in a private house

Of course, houses can be very different from each other, but the essence of high-quality installation is approximately the same for everyone, and it is as follows:

An electric meter is installed on the facade of the building, to which a descent from the overhead line is carried out by means of a wire (the power supply organization is responsible for this part and for the meter).
In a garage or some other room, a voltage stabilizer (s) and a power distribution panel or automation are installed, which controls and transmits electricity through an input copper cable with a cross section of 10–35 mm².
On the street near the premises where the switchboard is located, a generator is installed that supplies the house in the absence of a centralized power supply.
A separate switchboard is installed on each floor inside the house, to which the input cable is connected in parallel.
Separate RCDs are installed in the switchboard for the sockets of each of the rooms, circuit breakers separately for each room and separate RCDs for air conditioners, boilers, heating boilers and underfloor heating systems.
All powerful consumers are powered strictly from the switchboard, which provides for the installation of individual protection elements (RCD).
A separate junction box should be installed in each room, in which the input cables, and cable and wire products of the socket group and lighting circuits will then be switched.

Important! When drawing up a power supply plan, it is necessary to take into account the type of supply network. If you have a 3-phase network, then the input cable to the house should have 5 mils, in the case of single-phase power, the number of cores of the supply cable should be 3.

After you have decided on the power supply scheme and the installation locations of electrical accessories, you can start marking the room.

In order to perform the layout of the room you will need:

Initially, with the help of a laser level (water level) and a tape measure, we mark the installation locations of sockets and switches. Further, using a building level or a laser level and a pencil (beats), we mark, using strictly horizontal lines, the descents from the ceiling to sockets and switches for subsequent gating.

Using a laser level, we mark on the ceiling the places for laying cable and wire products for the subsequent installation of fasteners for corrugations and cable laying.

We mark the installation location of the junction box, which should be chosen in such a way that the costs of cable and wire products are minimal.

Important! When marking the ceiling, keep in mind that all cables from sockets and switches and input cables to socket groups and lighting circuits will be brought into the junction box, so when installing corrugation mounts, you need to calculate how many cables will go where.

After marking, when performing hidden wiring, you can start chasing the walls. To do this, you will need either an angle grinder (grinder) or a wall chaser with a vacuum cleaner (for dust-free chasing):

Initially, you need to determine the depth of the strobe. Suppose you are mounting a cable in a corrugation with a diameter of 16 mm. In this case, the depth and width of the strobe must be at least 20 mm. The strobes are cut according to a pre-made markup.

Important! It is forbidden to make strobes at an angle or to strobe load-bearing structures (crossbars, load-bearing walls, floor slabs, and so on).

Also, at the stage of wall chasing, it is necessary to make a hole for the installation of an internal switchboard. Its dimensions depend on the number of modules. In most cases, a switchboard for 24–36 modules should be installed on each floor (depending on the number of rooms and the number of household appliances).

Drilling holes for sockets and junction boxes

For this we need:

To drill holes, turn on the “drilling + drilling” mode, insert the necessary crown and drill the required number of holes in pre-marked places.

Important! When installing several sockets side by side, it is necessary to buy connecting junction boxes, apply them to the installation site, and only then drill holes. Since otherwise you will not be able to install sockets with overlays that are installed under one bar.

Installation of cable and wire products

In most cases, with high-quality installation, all cable and wire products are laid in the corrugation. This provides additional cable protection, simplifies installation and makes possible subsequent replacement in case of cable failure without opening the walls and violating the repair. It is also worth noting that do-it-yourself wiring in a house in 90% of cases is done in a hidden way (in strobes) and very rarely in cable channels in an open way.

What type of cable and wire products to choose

Here, of course, you need to perform a lot of calculations, but based on many years of experience, I would like to note:

To power the lighting circuits, a cable 3x1.5 mm² (PVSng, VVGng ShVVPng) is required.
To power the socket group of each of the rooms, a 3x2.5 mm² cable.
To power household air conditioners, the cable is 3x2.5 mm², but if its power is more than 5 kW, then the cable cross-section must be increased to 4 mm².
To power the electric stove and oven, the cable cross section must be at least 4 mm².
To power heating boilers (electric), depending on the type of power supply (single-phase or three-phase), the cable must be from 4 mm2 to 35 mm2 (depending on power). In most cases, the manufacturer writes the recommended cross section and number of cable cores.

Important! When laying cable and wire products, each outlet group must be connected to a separate RCD (namely, RCD according to the requirements of SNiP). Also from individual machines must be connected:

electric floor heating systems;

boilers;

washing machines;

electric stationary heaters;

heating boilers;

air conditioners;

dishwashers.

What should be the input cable

The input cable from the meter to the house must be calculated according to the nominal value of the input machine (installed after the meter). But in most cases, an input cable with a cross section of 10–16 mm2 is sufficient for a 3-phase network and 16–70 mm2 for a 1-phase supply network.

Installation and disconnection of the junction box

After installation of cable and wire products, you can mount junction boxes in pre-cut holes. For their reliable fixation, it is necessary to use alabaster, which seizes very quickly, after which you can disconnect.

Disconnection is performed in 3 ways:

Important! Wiring in the junction box is best done using cable color coding (blue to blue, brown to brown, yellow-green to yellow-green). This will allow you not to confuse the phase with earth or ground. In this case, the brown (white) wire is the phase, the blue (black) wire is zero, and the yellow-green wire is ground.

Mounting and assembly of the switchboard

After laying cable and wire products, installing and connecting junction boxes, you can proceed with the installation of the electrical distribution panel.

How many modules do you need to install the shield

Wiring in a private house involves the installation of a shield on each floor in private houses, cottages or summer cottages. However, in order to find out how many modules you need, you first need to calculate how many consumers there will be. Let's make a calculation for the standard version, that by its example we were able to do the installation of electrical wiring in the house with our own hands.

Let's say on your floor:

3 rooms.
Kitchen;
Corridor;
Boiler;
Washing machine;
Underfloor heating system in 3 rooms and kitchen;
Electric stove;
4 air conditioners.

Based on this, in the switchboard you need to install:

5 single-pole automatic switches for 10 A (lighting of 3 rooms, kitchen and corridor);
14 RCDs for 16 A (3 sockets in the rooms, 1 kitchen socket, 1 corridor socket, 1 boiler socket, 1 washing machine socket, 3 underfloor heating system, 4 air conditioners);
1 RCD for 25–32 A for connecting an electric stove.

From the above calculations, the number of occupied modules will be 35 pieces (30 modules occupy 15 RCDs and 5 circuit breakers). That is, we will need a switchboard for 36 modules. However, if you still want to connect a voltage limiter or the number of consumers is greater, then the shield must be mounted on 48 modules.

After mounting the switchboard, RCDs and circuit breakers can be mounted. They are easily mounted on a special DIN rail, which comes as standard with a shield.

Important! When the switchboard is turned off, the phase (brown) wires must go through automata or RCDs, the zero (blue) wires must be collected on the zero bus and the yellow-green wires must also be connected on the 2nd zero bus).

Conclusion

Whether it's electrical wiring in a country house, or a cottage, if properly installed, it will allow you to safely operate household appliances without worrying that a short circuit or fire may occur.

It is also worth noting that when the wiring in a country house is fully installed and connected to the ground loop, it is necessary to test with a megger and a device to test the resistance of the ground loop.

This article “Do-it-yourself wiring (wiring) in a private house: a step-by-step description” will allow you to do the wiring yourself, but it is always better to entrust this matter to professionals.