Growing tomato seedlings on two roots. How to properly form tomatoes in a greenhouse and open field Features of the formation of tomato bushes

ONE TOMATO ON TWO ROOTS - EXPERIMENTS WITH SEEDLINGS OF DIFFERENT AGES. WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE? So I decided to get a larger crop of tomatoes in my greenhouse, using a new technique for myself: grafting two stems of a tomato plant by bringing their shoots together. Scientifically, this method is called ablation. This is the easiest, in my opinion, for an inexperienced gardener to graft plants. As the saying goes, one "leg" is good, but two "legs" is even better. Therefore, if a plant has two stems with roots, then it will have an additional opportunity to receive nutrition, and, therefore, it will be able to form more fruits, and they will be much larger. My tomatoes occupy two ridges six meters long. I plant plants of only tall tomatoes in one row in a greenhouse made of cellular polycarbonate. The main condition for growing tomatoes is to form a powerful root system in the plant. Ablactation on planted seedlings. 2-3 weeks after planting the seedlings, I start my vaccinations. It is very important not to miss the right moment here. - The stalk of tomatoes should be rounded. As you know, later it becomes flatter with indentations. In this case, the vaccinations will no longer work or the vaccination sites grow together with difficulty. Therefore, it is important not to miss the favorable time. - It is better to graft in cloudy weather on the day of the fetus on the rising moon, in extreme cases, on the day of the flower. At this time, the rise of juice in plants is stronger. This means that the upper part of the plant is filled with juice and strength. Therefore, the effect of vaccination can be enhanced if such plants (tomatoes, apple trees) are grafted on the days of the fetus. - You can not vaccinate on the day of the root - they will not grow together, since all the forces of the plant are concentrated in the root. Once I made part of the vaccinations on the day of the root, and none of them grew together. If the weather is sunny, then I plant tomatoes in the evening, when the sun has already disappeared. - After the operation, I shade the plants from the sun - I cover them with a thin spunbond for several days. - One more important condition must be observed: A few days before the vaccination, the plants should not be watered - they should slightly wilt. Otherwise, the stems of tomatoes will be brittle. - A week before vaccination, I remove the two lower leaves from the plants. For vaccinations, the following tools and devices are needed: - a sharp blade, - scissors, - electrical tape (which stretches), - cotton wool, - salicylic alcohol or a vial of vodka. I put all the inventory in a small small basket so that everything is at hand. And then I start vaccinating. 1. I untie the plants from the sticks, tie the upper part of the tomatoes with a ribbon (not tight) so that they do not crumble. You don't have to tie them if you have a helper to hold the top of the plants. 2. Before making an incision on the stem, I figure out where the most successful junction is. 3. I choose the most convex part of the stem at the bottom of my tomatoes. I connect the stems to see if they will reach each other. 4. I wipe my hands and the blade with cotton wool soaked in salicylic alcohol. I make a cut 4-5 cm long on the scion and rootstock from top to bottom, while cutting off a very thin layer of skin. 5. After each such cut, I again wipe the blade with salicylic alcohol. 6. The length of the cuts on the rootstock and scion must be the same. I connect the places of cuts together on the stems. 7. With my left hand I firmly hold the connected stems, and with my right hand I wrap them tightly with electrical tape in a spiral, moving progressively from bottom to top. 8. Of course, it will be much more convenient to do this with an assistant who will hold the plants. 9. Sections will definitely grow together if they are firmly connected to each other. Since I am already grafting adult tomatoes, I do not remove the bandage from electrical tape afterwards. 10. After all the vaccinations on the scion (on the left), I remove the upper part of the stem, leaving only the two lower leaves, sprinkle the cut with Bisolbifit powder, and water both plants and spray only the stock with HB-101 solution - when watering 2 drops per liter of water, when spraying 1 drop per liter of water. 11. Two weeks later, I remove the bottom sheet for the scion, and after another week, I remove the top sheet. And you can leave one sheet. 12. Tomato plants after removing the last leaf on the scion, I mulch with compost. 13. Vaccinations will grow together in about 2-2.5 weeks. 14. Further care consists in watering after the soil has dried in the greenhouse, removing stepchildren twice a week, and weekly top dressing. 15. With the appearance of tomatoes on the lower brush, I remove the lower leaves from the main stem. 16. When tomatoes start to appear on the next brush, I remove the next lower leaves. But I don’t remove all the leaves completely on the stem at the end of July, as many gardeners do. I believe that the leaves should participate in the process of photosynthesis and feed the plants. And how will they do it without leaves ?! Therefore, the upper part of the stem of my tomatoes is always with leaves. 17. The lower leaves must be removed, they have their own expiration date - they also age. If you leave them, then the tomato bushes will be poorly ventilated, and this will lead to stagnation of air in the greenhouse and to the premature appearance of late blight. 18. It is also necessary to monitor the scion: stepchildren should not be allowed to appear. In wounded plants, they appear very quickly, as they seek to restore what they have lost. It is best to remove leaves, stepchildren and pinch plants on the waning moon on the day of the root. 19. I limit the growth of tomatoes at the end of July - I remove the upper part of the plant, except for cherry tomatoes. I think that this time is the most suitable, since the small fruits that have begun to grow will have time to grow and ripen. Many gardeners carry out this procedure in mid-August. But at this time, our nights are already cold, and in 2-3 weeks in such conditions, small tomatoes will not have time to grow up, let alone ripen. In addition, this period is unfavorable in terms of the appearance of late blight. This does not apply to heated greenhouses. Ablactation on small seedlings. I tried to vaccinate at the stage of small seedlings at home. But she abandoned this idea due to the fact that the stem is still very thin and fragile - she spoiled many seedlings by breaking them. Such vaccinations must be done together. Yes, and transporting such fused seedlings is problematic. And it’s even more difficult then to plant it alone in the ground from two pots at the same time, because I don’t have like-minded people. And one more problem: it is important for me to grow roots on the plant as much as possible, but this is impossible to do on grafted seedlings. If you plant two tomatoes in one pot and then plant them, then in one container you will not be able to grow a good root system in two plants at the same time. In plants grafted at an early stage of seedlings, it is necessary to bandage the grafting site every now and then because of the constant growth of the stems, and this is troublesome. If the accretion of the vaccination does not occur, the harvest will still be the same as with conventional cultivation. Even, perhaps, wounded plants yield a more generous crop, since after the stress of the injury, their development is accelerated. I know that many gardeners are afraid of injuring tomatoes. So my parents, when I did these vaccinations, scolded me for mocking the unfortunate plants. The main thing here is to isolate such observers so that they do not interfere. I started grafting tomatoes in 2010. For the purity of the experiment, I chose several varieties and hybrids. I planted several identical varieties and hybrids next to each other: a grafted and a control specimen without grafting, so that the difference in the fruiting of plants was visible. And she was visible. And the difference was especially noticeable in the cold rainy summer. The grafted plants gave a richer harvest, and the tomatoes there were much larger. Every year I planted seedlings in the greenhouse earlier and earlier. Last year, she planted seedlings on April 18, as a result, the first tomatoes formed after May 20. When I began to remove tomatoes from the greenhouse in autumn, I had to tinker with them: despite the loose soil, the root system was very powerful, and the roots were very long. So she did everything right. I advise gardeners to try to vaccinate several plants themselves, using excess tomato seedlings. I do not advise you to graft all plants at once until you gain experience. And you will see for yourself the advantages of this method, although it will require additional work. Olga Rubtsova, gardener, candidate of geographical sciences, Vsevolozhsk district of the Leningrad region. Photo of the author.

Consumption ecology. It is possible to achieve a high yield of tomatoes without the use of labor-intensive intensive growing methods. You need to choose varieties that have been tested in your region and follow a few simple rules that will help you collect 2 buckets of tomatoes from one bush

It is possible to achieve a high yield of tomatoes without the use of labor-intensive intensive growing methods. You need to choose varieties that have been tested in your region and follow a few simple rules that will help you collect 2 buckets of tomatoes from one bush!

MY SECRETS:

I love tall varieties of tomatoes.

I plant 2 plants, leveling the tops by joining the stems together.

They support each other.

I plant in trenches so that watering does not reach 3 cm, but shed with a depth of 30 - 35 cm. Then the root system will be formed at such a depth, and will not be subject to spring cooling and summer heat. in the top layer of soil. After all, tomato diseases are mainly provoked by sudden changes in temperature.

I leave the first 2 stepsons, let them grow, and then I pin them to the ground to strengthen the root system. I tie the tops of these stepsons with the main two stems to the support. Thus, I lead a bush in 6 trunks.

I delete all the rest of the stepchildren.

Ripens 9 - 10 rows of brushes with tomatoes on one trunk.

Of course, be sure to remember about the renewal of the soil.

In the spring, after the earth dries up from snow water, we cultivate, sow green manure (mainly oats), water it if the spring is without rain. For 3 weeks, oats grow by 10-15 cm, and we cultivate them in the soil.

Now you can plant seedlings.

In autumn, after harvesting the beds, we also sow oats and then also plow them underground.

When planting, I put in each hole harvested over the winter, banana peel, orange, onion peel, garlic, a handful of rotted sawdust, egg shells and, of course,1 fresh fish

I buy a freshly frozen sprat and a fish in each hole.

Since autumn, I have been preparing a warm bed in the greenhouse, pouring it well several times with water. In the spring, when the snow starts to melt, we install a greenhouse on this bed. The snow melts quickly under the sun.

The "trash" "hidden" in the garden bed - the tops of flowers, watermelon peels, branches, ... will begin to rot, releasing heat.

As soon as the weather permits, I spill the grooves in the greenhouse with boiling water, and sow the seeds in the warm earth.

I cover the bed with a film, I close the greenhouse.

And I also cover the greenhouse itself with a film on top. I dig in the bottom of the greenhouse with earth (preservation of solar heat).

Even if frost or snow falls, it’s not scary, the raspberries will not freeze there.

I plant seedlings under bottles. If it is warm and sunny during the day, I unscrew the caps of the bottles, and twist them at night. After the threat of frost, I clean the bottles.

You also need to remember about soil nutrition!

After all, if we are "fed" with only one water, we will also be of little use!

I feed tomatoes with infusion of nettle, bread, extract from ash, infusion of quail or chicken manure.

As soon as the seedlings take root, they begin to "curly," I spend the first spraying with a pink solution of potassium permanganate.

After 10 days - the second spraying with a solution of boric acid (20 grams per 10 liters of water).

After another 10 days - the third spraying with a solution of iodine (10-15 drops of iodine per 10 liters of water).RICH HARVESTS TO YOU! published

The formation of plants such as tomatoes is an important agricultural technique, due to which the yield of a bush increases several times. For example, on some varieties of tomatoes, it is recommended to leave 2 main stems, on others - 1 main shoot. To understand why and how they do it in a greenhouse, an article and watching videos and photographs will help.

Why form bushes

In the very warm climate of their homeland, South America, tomatoes grow as perennials. Over the full period of the plant's life, more than 150 stepchildren of various orders are formed on it. Such a significant amount is due to a natural pattern - the more shoots, the more fruits can form on them.

However, such a calculation does not work in conditions of competition for feeding area, which always happens in a closed greenhouse system. Here, tomatoes cannot provide good nutrition for both leaves and fruit at the same time. Therefore, experienced gardeners resort to pinching, that is, they remove excess shoots that form in the axils of the leaves.

Stepson on a tomato bush

In greenhouses, such a procedure is necessary for a number of reasons:

if the aerial part of the plant is much larger than the root, then the growth and development of the fruit will be hampered by a lack of nutrients;
with the growth of a large number of leaves, the root system is not able to “feed” all of them. As a result, some of them turn yellow and die, without having fulfilled their direct function, which consists in the synthesis of the elements necessary for the formation of fruits;
when there are a lot of leaves on the plant, they begin to shade each other. Air access is also difficult. Such conditions contribute to the development of diseases.

Dividing tomatoes into types

The rules for the formation of a bush are completely dependent on the type of branching of the plant, which are distinguished by two:

determinant;
indeterminate.

The first type is inherent in varieties whose fruits ripen in early and medium terms. On the main stem of a determinant (with limited growth) bush, the first inflorescence is laid after the formation of 3-4 leaves. The second is formed through 2-3 sheets, then - through one sheet. The last 2-3 inflorescences go in a row. This is where the growth of the main shoot stops. During the formation of such a bush, 2-3 stems are left.

Principles of formation of tomato bushes

In varieties of the indeterminate type, the first inflorescence develops over 9-12 leaves, and the next ones go every 3-4 leaves. Under favorable conditions, the main stem can reach 3 m, and flower clusters are formed continuously. It is better to form indeterminate type tomatoes in one stem.

Bush formation techniques

Attention! The main stem is considered to be the shoot on which the first flower bud was formed. All the rest are stepchildren.

Stepping, or pinching off additional shoots, begins 15 days after planting the tomato in the greenhouse. Then repeat the procedure regularly, every 2 weeks. The shoots are simply broken off by hand. It is advisable to do this in the morning.

Advice. It is better to remove stepchildren not completely, but retreating 2-3 cm from the main trunk. This can prevent the re-formation of the process.

Top pinching. This manipulation is carried out in order to stop the growth of the bush up. As a result, the plant does not consume nutrients on the stem, but directs them to the fruits. This contributes to the timely ripening of tomatoes. When a sufficient amount of ovary is formed on the tomato, the top is cut off.
Removing leaves. On grown plants, it is necessary to remove the lower 5-6 leaves. During sanitary cleaning, dried and yellowed ones are pinched off.

How to form a bush in 2 stems

Basically, this technique is used in the agricultural technology of determinant varieties of medium growth. At first glance, the procedure for forming a bush is very simple. However, if you do not follow the rules obtained by experience, you can lose a decent part of the crop.

Formation of a bush in 1, 2 or 3 stems

The second shoot should be formed only from the stepson, which grew under the first flower brush. He is the strongest.
It is necessary to constantly monitor the growth point of the abandoned stems and always hold the stepchild of replacement at the top. If growth is stopped, that is, the main shoot is determined by the flower brush, this process will become its continuation.
Stepchildren should be regularly, avoiding the outgrowth of excess shoots.

Advice. If any of the stepchildren is a pity to remove, you can leave it with the third stem. However, the rest must be pinched off.

Basic care

Growing tomatoes in greenhouse conditions is impossible without a garter. Moreover, both varieties with small and varieties with large fruits need it. Throughout the life of the plant, it should be fastened with twine to a trellis or other support.

Of course, you can not do without top dressing. Be sure to take into account that for normal growth and fruiting, tomatoes need to receive potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus.

Tomato tying

Tomatoes need enough heat and light. The temperature in the greenhouse should be +24..+31°C, and the lighting duration should be at least 10 hours a day. If these two regimens are not observed, tomatoes grow leaves unnecessarily.

The formation of tomatoes in a greenhouse is one of the most important points in agricultural technology, which makes the whole plant work to form flower brushes and ovaries. As a result, there is a significant increase in yield and fruit quality.

Recently, among gardeners, the method of planting plants of 2 pieces in 1 hole has become increasingly popular. However, this method is the subject of controversy: is it worth it or not to plant tomatoes like this and what does this method give? Nevertheless, the technology gives good results, so it is worth considering it in more detail.

Description of technology, its pros and cons

The planting method is quite simple: planting holes are pulled out, 2 tomatoes are planted in each of which. This technology has a number of advantages:

There are also certain disadvantages:

more planting material is required;
compacted planting requires constant attention from the gardener;
overly dense planting can lead to real "thickets", which makes it difficult to care for and pinch.

What tomatoes can be planted with several roots?

Two plants per hole can be planted as determinant varieties of tomatoes, as well as indeterminate ones. But for novice gardeners or those who do not systematically garden (for example, they come to the dacha on weekends), it is better to plant only determinant varieties in such a compact way, since they do not grow too quickly and do not need pinching.

Another condition is Tomatoes of the same variety should be planted in one seat! Each type of tomato has its own requirements for watering, feeding, care, so even minor discrepancies can lead to the death of the crop.

Reference! Determinate tomatoes are plants that do not require pinching and garters.

Indeterminate tomatoes have unlimited growth of the main stem, require the formation of a bush.

Preparatory stage

The soil

For planting tomatoes, a sunny place is chosen, without drafts.
The place should not be damp with close standing groundwater.
The site for planting tomatoes is selected taking into account the correct crop rotation: it is impossible to plant tomatoes in the same place twice in a row, it is better if onions, garlic, carrots, cucumbers, cabbage, zucchini, beets, pumpkin are the predecessors of tomatoes.
Seedlings should not be allowed to be planted in place of other nightshades, as all diseases will be inherited.
In autumn and spring, the soil must be carefully dug up in order to saturate it with oxygen and remove the roots of weeds.
It is possible to scatter fertilizers on the soil before digging to enrich it with nutrients (50 g of superphosphate per 1 sq.m or 5 kg of manure per 1 sq.m).
For 5 - 6 days before planting, the site should be shed with a solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water): for 1 sq.m 1 - 1.5 liters of liquid.

Plants

It is recommended to treat the seedlings with a weak and warm solution of potassium permanganate before planting. for the prevention of fungal diseases, which are very susceptible to still fragile young plants. Since 2 tomatoes will be planted in one hole, it is necessary to prepare a sufficient amount of planting material in advance.

How to determine if seedlings are ready for planting in open ground? In this matter, indicators such as the height of the plant, the thickness of the stem and the number of leaves will help determine:

For early varieties of tomatoes:
- the optimal seedling height should be 20 - 25 cm;
- stem thickness - 5 - 7 mm;
- leaves on the plant should be 7 - 9.
For late varieties:
- height - 20 - 25 cm;
- stem thickness - 5-6 mm;
- the number of leaves is 6 - 8.

Instruction

Planting holes are dug to a depth of 20 - 25 cm, the distance between them is 40 - 50 cm, the distance between rows is 50 - 60 cm.

Prepare holes for planting.
The holes should be well shed with water and wait until it soaks into the ground (the hole is completely filled with water).
In the planting hole, recesses are made into which the tomatoes will be placed.
A pair of tomatoes is buried in the ground at an angle of 45 degrees.
From above, the roots of plants are covered with earth (it can be dry), which is slightly pressed at the base of the stems for better fixation.
Each well must be watered with another 1 liter of water.

Cultivation and care

Watering

Within 7 - 8 days, until the seedlings take root, it is not worth watering. Young plants will have enough of the amount of moisture that they receive when planting.

The best time for watering is the second half of the day, in the late afternoon. It is desirable that direct sunlight does not fall on the tomatoes. Tomatoes do not like when moisture gets on their leaves - from this they can start to get sick with fungal diseases.

Watering is done only under the root, it is better if it is drip. From the moment of planting seedlings and until the moment of the first ovary, the soil is only moistened, preventing it from drying out. When the tomatoes begin to bear fruit, they should be watered systematically and plentifully, since the root system needs to intensively nourish the plant, especially if there are two plants in the hole.

top dressing

Two tomatoes in one hole need "enhanced nutrition". Of the preferred fertilizers:

superphosphate;
humus;
ash.

You can use chicken manure (1:15, 1 bucket for 10 - 15 bushes).

Loosening and hilling

Every time after watering, the soil should be loosened, and 15 - 18 days after planting, many vegetable growers recommend hilling young plants to a height of up to 12 cm.

Mulching

In order for the soil to retain moisture longer and the roots to be shaded, many gardeners mulch the beds, cover the surface of the soil:

cut grass;
straw;
peat;
sawdust;
husks of seeds, etc.

In addition, mulching will prevent the growth of various weeds.

Bush formation

In order to increase productivity, improve the quality of fruits, speed up the process of their ripening, tomato bushes are formed in a special way. Experienced growers form each of the doubled tomatoes into 2 stalks. Thus, a bush of 4 stems is formed in one hole, but they are fed by 2 roots, which, undoubtedly, only positively affects the yield.

Reference! To form a bush in 2 stems, all shoots are removed from the main stem, except for the one growing under the first flower brush. On the main shoot leave 4 flower brushes and pinch the top, and on the side shoot leave 3 fruit brushes and also pinch.

Leaf pruning

Be sure to get rid of the lower leaves for better ventilation of the plant.

Common mistakes and their prevention

Excessively thick mass of tomatoes. The main reason is the missed moment of timely stepsoning. This is especially true for indeterminate varieties. The result is a lack of harvest. Plants should be monitored constantly, in time to form a bush, pinching (breaking off side shoots 3-4 cm long).
Seedlings interfere with each other. The reason is too small a distance between plants. The distance between the shoots of determinant varieties should be 15-20 cm, between indeterminate varieties - up to 30 cm.
Planted tomatoes do not grow, stand in one place. One of the main reasons for this phenomenon is the lack of nutrition for plants. When planting in the hole, you can make a variety of organic fertilizers (manure, humus, onion peel, eggshell, banana peel, etc.), mineral fertilizers (superphosphate, ammonium nitrate), complex fertilizers are also suitable.

Each gardener is free to decide for himself how to grow plants. But you can always experiment, otherwise you will never be able to choose the best way to grow tomatoes, suitable directly for this site, these weather conditions.