Which universal wood router to choose. How to choose a high-quality and reliable router? Working stroke of the cutter

Processing lumber, inserting loops, making technological holes and recesses, woodcarving - all this can be done by such a device as a milling cutter. Moreover, this can be done not only by professional equipment, but also by relatively inexpensive manual specimens. But working with a manual wood router requires knowledge of some techniques and rules. All this is in the article.

What is a cutter and what is it for?

A milling cutter is a device for processing wood or metal. They process flat and shaped surfaces, and also forms technological recesses - a groove, a comb, recesses for installing hinges, etc. According to the installation method, there are stationary machines (there are different types for performing different operations), and there are manual milling machines. Manual electric milling cutters are a universal tool that allows you to carry out any operation. To change the operation, you just need to change the nozzle - the cutter and / or its location on the part.

Machine tools are mainly used in mass production. In them, the cutter is installed motionless, and the workpiece moves along a certain trajectory. When working with a manual milling cutter, the situation is the opposite - the workpiece is fixed motionlessly, the milling cutter is moved. When processing large volumes of identical parts, it is more convenient to fix a hand router on a horizontal surface, making something similar to a milling machine.

Homemade milling machine - a horizontal plane with a hole in the middle, to which a manual router is attached from below

There are many different types of milling machines, but for the home DIYer or for semi-professional use, universal ones are more suitable. They are equipped with various cutters and special devices, which allows you to perform any operation. It just takes more time and skill to complete them than on a specialized machine.

What can be done with a manual milling cutter:

Similar operations are used in carpentry, in the manufacture and assembly of furniture. Even embed a lock or hinges on the door - this can also be done by a hand mill. Moreover, it will do it much faster and more elegantly than similar operations, but performed with a hand tool.

Preparation for work and care

To understand the principles of working with a manual router, it is desirable to have at least a general idea of ​​​​its structure and the purpose of the parts.

The structure and purpose of the main nodes

The manual electric milling cutter consists of a housing in which the motor is hidden. A holder protrudes from the body, where the collets are inserted. Collets are small adapters that allow the use of cutters with different shanks. A cutter is already inserted into the collet and tightened with a clamping bolt (on some models it is fixed with a button).

Another important detail of a hand router is the platform, which is connected to the body with two rods. The platform is usually made of metal. There is a sliding plate on the underside of the platform. It is made of a smooth material that ensures the tool runs smoothly as it moves through the part.

Setting the parameters of the milling cutter is done using:

• Handles and jackals for setting the depth of milling. The tuning step is 1/10 mm.
• Adjustment of the number of revolutions. Changes the rotation speed of the cutter. For starters, it’s worth trying to work at low or medium speeds - it’s easier to drive the tool at first.

Also, be sure to have an on / off button on the case, there may also be a lock button. Here, in a nutshell, are all the nodes. In addition, there is also a parallel stop that is quite convenient to use. It can be simple or adjustable - you can move the cutting part slightly to the right or left.

Care

From the factory, the equipment is lubricated, so in principle, no additional operations are required. But it is necessary to keep the equipment clean - it is necessary to clean the dust more often, change the lubricant if necessary. Lubrication is needed for moving parts - guides. You can use liquid aerosol lubricants (preferably), but you can also use ordinary grease-type "Litol". But, when using thick lubricants, they will have to be removed periodically, as chips and dust stick, it becomes difficult to work. When using light aerosol formulations, there is practically no sticking.

In order for the sole to glide easily, you can lubricate it with silicone grease. This is especially useful when working with templates. Then the tool literally glides, goes smoothly and without jerks.

Rotational speed

Work with a manual milling cutter on wood, composite, plywood, etc. starts with setting the basic parameters. First you need to set the rotation speed. It is selected depending on the selected cutter and the rigidity of the material and the characteristics of the router, so exact recommendations should be sought in the instruction manual.

Fixing the cutter

Next, a cutter is installed. Most branded cutters have marks that you can navigate. If they are not available, then the minimum must be clamped at least 3/4 of the length of the shank (cylindrical part). Insert the cutter to the required depth (if necessary, having previously installed a collet - an adapter chuck for different cutter diameters), fix the shaft, tighten it with an open-end wrench until it stops (but do not overtighten).

If the model is simple, two keys are needed. They do not provide a mechanism for blocking the shaft, the second key will need to hold it. Middle-class devices have a lock button. Clamping it, tighten the cutter with an open-end wrench. In expensive models, in addition to blocking, there is a ratchet by which you can navigate.

Setting the milling depth

Each model of a manual router has a certain overhang - this is the maximum depth to which this unit is able to process the material. The maximum depth of milling is not always required, then its adjustment is required. Even if it is necessary to mill to a great depth, so as not to overload the cutter and the unit too much, it can be divided into several levels. There is a revolver for this. This is a small disk under the bar with a number of stops of different heights - legs. The number of legs is from three to seven, and more does not mean better. It is much more convenient if it is possible to adjust the height of each leg. This shows the class of the equipment. To fix the turret in the desired position, there is a latch, usually made in the form of a flag.

Setting the milling depth on a manual router takes place in several stages:

• The tool is placed on a flat surface, the clamps are released, the hand is pressed so that the cutter rests on the surface.
• The turret stop is released by unscrewing its lock.

• Depending on what depth of milling is needed, choose the leg of the turret stop. The disc with legs is rotated to the desired position.
• The screw is not fixed, but the bar is held with a finger, the movable pointer is moved so that it coincides with zero (in the photo above).
• The bar is raised to the milling depth mark, after which the turret lock is lowered (pictured below).

Now, when installed on the workpiece and pressing on the upper part, the cutter will enter the part at the set distance.

On good routers there is a wheel for fine adjustment of the depth of milling. It allows you to adjust the depth without knocking down the settings (you do not need to repeat the entire operation), albeit within small limits (in the photo above this is a green wheel).

Milling cutters for manual router

Milling cutters are cutting tools that process and shape the surface. They consist of a cylindrical part, which is clamped by collets in the unit holder, and a cutting part. The cylindrical part can be of different diameters. Choose one that has a collet for which your machine has. The shape and location of the blades of the cutting part determines the look that the wood receives after processing. Some cutters (for edges) have a thrust roller. It sets the distance from the cutting surface to the workpiece.

Working with a manual wood router involves the presence of a certain number of milling cutters. This is a small part of what exists

Make cutters from different metals and alloys. For processing soft wood - pine, spruce, etc. - use conventional nozzles (HSS), for hard rocks - oak, beech and others - from hard alloys (HM).

Each cutter has a certain resource and maximum speed, which ensures normal operation with minimal runout. Do not exceed the recommended speed - this can cause damage to the router. It also makes no sense to sharpen the cutter if it is dull. They do this on special equipment (worth about $ 1000), where you can set the required sharpening angle. Nothing good can be done manually. So blunt ones are easier (and cheaper) to replace, since they cost relatively little.

Popular types

There are a number of types of router bits that are most commonly used.

There are simple milling cutters, formed from a single piece of metal, there are type-setting. Type-setting have a shank - a base, a certain set of different cutting planes, a set of washers of different thicknesses. From these details, you can independently form the required relief.

Type-setting cutter - a set of several cutting surfaces and washers from which you can make a cutter of the required shape

These are the most popular types of cutters, but in fact there are a lot of them. In addition to different diameters of shanks, there are different diameters of cutting surfaces, their height, the location of knives relative to each other, etc. In general, do-it-yourself milling usually requires about five of the most common milling cutters. They are usually present all the time, and the rest are purchased for specific types of work.

Principles of work with a manual milling cutter

An electric milling cutter is a rather dangerous thing - sharp cutting parts rotating at high speed can cause serious injuries, and chips flying from under the tool too. And although most models have a protective shield that reflects the main flow of chips, goggles will not interfere. So the work of a manual wood router requires attention and concentration.

One of the models - with a connected vacuum cleaner to remove chips

General requirements

Work with a manual wood router will be easier and more enjoyable, the products will turn out to be of normal quality if certain conditions are met:

Not such complex requirements, but their implementation is the key to good work and safety. Well, the main requirement is that the milling cutter must be driven smoothly, without jerks, shocks. If a strong beat is felt, change the speed. Most often, it must be reduced, but in general it is worth focusing on the manufacturer's recommendations (available on the package).

Edge processing - working with a template

Processing the edge of an ordinary board is easier and faster to carry out on a thicknesser, but if it is not there, a manual milling cutter will also cope, but it will only take more time. There are two ways: without a template and with a template. If this is the first experience with a router, it is better to use a template. When processing the edges of boards, straight edge cutters are needed, and, most likely, two will be needed - with a bearing at the beginning and at the end of the cutting part (pictured).

For edge processing - make a flat surface

As a template, you can use an already processed board or, for example, a building rule. The length of the template should be slightly longer than the length of the workpiece - by 5-6 cutter radii on each side. This will make it possible to avoid the “dive” of the cutter into the material at the beginning and at the end. One important point: the horizontal plane (perpendicular to the workpiece) must be flat. In any case, its curvature should not be greater than the gap between the bearing and the cutting part, otherwise the cutter will touch the template, and this is very bad - it becomes imperfect and the resulting irregularities will appear on other copies.

If the width of the part is not more than the length of the cutting edge

The cutting part of the cutters has different lengths, but the larger the cutting part, the more difficult it is to work - more effort has to be applied to hold the unit. Therefore, it is easier to start with a medium cutter. The order of processing the edge with a router (with a template) is as follows:

• Set the template so that it sets the required flat surface - stepping back the desired distance from the edge.
• The blank with the template is securely attached to the table or any other horizontal surface.
• Install a cutter with a roller in the middle part. It is set so that the roller rolls along the template, and the cutting part along the part. To do this, the cutter is installed on a fixed workpiece with a template, a milling cutter disconnected from the network is placed, the position of the nozzle is corrected, and it is clamped.
• Set the cutter in the working position - lower the body, clamp it.
• Turn on a manual milling cutter, guide it according to the template. The speed of movement is determined by the depth of processing. You will feel everything yourself.
• And how to conduct a milling cutter? Pull or push? Depends on which side you're on. If the workpiece is on the left, push; if on the right, pull. You can also navigate by the overhang of the chips - it should fly forward.

On this, in fact, everything. After you have completed the passage, evaluate the result, remove the clamps.

This, by the way, is another way to remove a quarter along the edge of the workpiece or in some part of it. To remove a quarter, set the cutting part so that the processing is of a given depth.

By changing the cutter to a curly (fillet) and shifting the template or using the stop that comes with the kit, you can apply a longitudinal pattern to the workpiece (pictured below).

In general, this milling technique is quite convenient. For the first steps in woodworking, this is the best way to “fill your hand”, then it will be possible to level the edges even without guides.

The width is greater than the length of the cutting part

What to do if the thickness of the workpiece is not more than the length of the cutting part of the cutter? In this case, the work with a manual wood router continues:

Now the edge is completely processed on one side. If necessary, repeat with the other side. In general, in order to master the work of a manual wood router, you will need several “rough” blanks. Choose from those that you don’t mind throwing away - at first there will be a lot of jambs, then gradually learn.

Obtaining curly and curved edges

If you need not even, but rounded or any other shape of the edge, you need to look at the state of the existing edge. If the workpiece is more or less even, take the necessary edge cutter, install it and process the surface, as described above. If the surface is too curved, it is first brought to a normal state, and then milled.

This is necessary because the bearing roller rolls over the surface and if there are flaws, they will be copied. Therefore, act consistently - first level, then - give curvature.

If a curved surface is boring at all, a template is cut out. The drawing is applied to plywood with a thickness of 8-12 mm, first it can be cut with an electric jigsaw, so the edge is brought to an ideal state with a milling cutter.

In this case, you will also have to work with a router, but so far without a template. When the surface is perfect, the template is fixed to the workpiece and then the work already described above with a manual wood router. Just one point: if you need to shoot in some places a large amount of material, it is better to do it with a jigsaw, for example. Otherwise, the cutter will quickly become dull.

Video tutorials on working with a manual router

When installing doors, it is necessary to cut the hinges, how to do this with a router - in the next video (there is also a guide on how to make a groove, for example, for installing an extension).

How to make a homemade milling machine from laminate samples (you can use plywood) and how to make a spike connection for drawers (a table, for example) - in the next video

The work of a manual wood router is shown well in the following video, but it is in English. Even if you do not know English, take the time to look. Many operations will become clearer.

From this article you can find out what features a manual wood router has: the main types of tools, their capabilities and technical parameters, as well as the components necessary for work. The text contains recommendations that will not only help you decide on the choice of a suitable hand router, but also effectively use it in practice.

Wood carving with a manual milling cutter is not only done by professional carpenters. The capabilities of this tool will be useful to furniture makers and decorators. The main purpose of the milling cutter is wood processing. Although many modern models are able to cope with other materials.

Consumers can buy a manual router for processing:

• stone of artificial origin;
• plastic;
• composite materials;
• plexiglass;
• non-ferrous metals.

The scope of this tool extends to the manufacture of decorative products and furniture made of wood, carpentry. Crafts created by a manual milling cutter look very impressive. These unique products are widely used in everyday life. With the help of a milling cutter, craftsmen make beautiful picture frames, caskets, children's toys, decorative shelves, etc.

What can be done with a manual router:

• a selection of quarters;
• the formation of such structural details as folds, grooves, spikes, slots;
• edge part profiling (shaped and straight);
• the formation of seats for the installation of fittings and locking mechanisms on the doors;
• decorative wood carving with a milling cutter with appropriate nozzles;
• making holes;
• fitting parts to be connected;
• alignment of contours in a draft way.

Types of wood routers: classification of devices

To decide which router is better to buy for your home, you should familiarize yourself in detail with the existing range of these devices. The choice of device depends on the type of proposed work, their complexity and volume. For example, the need to use a milling cutter in furniture production arises constantly, while in a home workshop such a tool will be required only from time to time.

There are the following types of cutters:

• top type;
• edging;
• lamellar.

Top-type devices can be fixed and submersible. The second option is universal, and therefore the most widely used. For the home workshop, the submersible design is best suited. It is this category of devices that should be considered in more detail in order to decide which router to choose for certain tasks.

Note! Lamella milling cutter is used to form grooves on the surface of workpieces. This device belongs to the category of a highly specialized tool that has a small number of functions.

When compared with other types of hand-held power tools, the milling cutter has the simplest design. No belts, gears or other components are used to transmit torque. Nozzles for a milling cutter are established directly on a spindle (an electric motor shaft). Due to this, a set of large revolutions is ensured.

The body part of the electric mill is called the "head". It moves along the guide rods, which are rigidly fixed on the support platform, up and down. When the handle is pressed, the head of the tool goes down. If the pressure is released, the springs will return the structure to its previous position again.

Classification of existing products, their features and specifics of use. Recommendations on the choice of cutting parts for the milling cutter.

How to choose a manual router: an overview of additional features

When buying a router, you should pay attention to the presence of additional features and options that improve its technical or operational characteristics.

If the density of the material being processed increases or the speed of the router along the product increases, the number of revolutions may decrease. To prevent this and keep the indicators at a given level, it is enough to have a system of constant electronics. It stabilizes the rotational speed of the spindle by adjusting the power of the electric motor. This feature will be useful for owners of professional devices. Normal devices don't need it.

The soft start system, as in the Makita RP1800F manual milling cutter, will allow you to increase the engine speed in a smooth mode. This eliminates the possibility that the equipment will make a sharp jerk during switching on. As a result, the service life of the tool is increased, since its nodal parts are not subjected to regular, albeit short-term, overloads. The operation of the milling cutter becomes safe, and the possibility of damage to the workpiece at the initial stage of processing is also excluded.

The wood router overload protection system will prevent damage to the device if the temperature of the winding on the electric motor exceeds a critical level. Depending on the model of the device, it can manifest itself in different ways: in the form of a light indication that serves as a signal, or as an automatic function that turns off the power. As a rule, such a system is provided in professional routers, which are designed for continuous work in intensive mode.

Protection against accidental start is another useful feature. Regardless of the cost, most routers are equipped with this option. There is a corresponding button on the body part of the tool. The voltage supply to the motor winding will only be carried out if it is pressed simultaneously with the start key. As a result, the possibility of unintentional switching on of the device is eliminated.

Note! TO The safety button not only prevents unintentional starting, but also locks the trigger in the “on” position. This function will be useful when using a router table for a manual router.

The choice of a manual milling cutter, taking into account design features

When choosing a hand router, you need to pay attention to the quality of the support platform or sole. This element can be made of cast or stamped metal. Cast constructions have a clear geometry, so that they perfectly adhere to the work surface and provide high quality work. These tools include the manual wood router Makita RP0900. It has a cast aluminum sole. Stamped platforms are equipped with inexpensive routers designed for domestic use.

Be sure to make sure that the lower plane of the platform is covered with a plastic overlay. Most often, this part is removable, which allows you to replace it with a new one when wear occurs. Attention deserves the size of the opening in the sole. This hole limits the diameter of the cutters that can be mounted on the tool. A sole with a small opening will not be able to install a large cutting nozzle.

Since the head of the tool moves along the guide rods, which are placed vertically, it is very important that the movement of this element is easy and smooth. If the design has distortions and backlashes, the use of the router will be difficult. The same applies to excess resistance that may occur in the process of moving the node vertically.

The depth of immersion of the cutter in the tree is controlled by the stop. It looks like a metal rod, which rests against the platform on the platform and does not allow the head of the device to fall below the set level. To set the level of penetration, it is enough to move the stop rod down or up. For this, a special screw is provided in the design.

To perform several passes, gradually increasing the depth of the cutter, you will need a multi-stage turret. It is a platform mounted on a platform and having several steps of different heights. A vertical rod rests here, which limits the depth of passage of the cutter.

Note! In some cases, the turret does not have steps, but bolts. For example, the Interskol FM-67/2200E manual router has three adjustable screws and one fixed base. Thanks to this, the device simultaneously has both coarse and fine depth settings.

Choice of accessories for a handheld router

The milling cutter is used for rough fitting of products. The accuracy of the parts performed depends on the quality of the tool and the experience of the operator. To achieve the desired result, additional devices are attached to the router, which simplify the work with this device.

No job can be done without removable cutting attachments. With the help of them, you can make dovetail, straight, rounded, T-shaped and other types of grooves and recesses with a router. There are many options for these nozzles.

According to their purpose and design, they are grouped into categories:

• edging;
• grooved;
• figurines;
• combined.

A device such as a parallel stop, also called a side stop, is used to process a surface parallel to the edge of a wooden workpiece. Thanks to him, it becomes possible to move the tool at an equal distance from the edge. A pair of rigid metal rods and screws are used to fix the stop. The quality of the result obtained depends on how firmly the structure is installed. The material for the manufacture of the stop is stamped and cast metal. Removable plastic pad prevents contact of this element with the workpiece.

The guide bar is another accessory for straight line milling. Unlike the rip fence, this element allows you to thread at any angle with respect to the edge, as well as at any distance from it. The tire has the form of a profiled ruler, which is fixed on the workpiece with the help of clamps. A special shoe is attached to the tool. He guides the router, moving along the grooves of the bar.

Masters use a ruler for a milling cutter in order to carve along a radial line. It is indispensable in cases where you want to make a round tabletop. On the one hand, the ruler-compass is fixed in the sole of the tool with screws, on the other hand, it is fastened with a pin through a hole formed in the workpiece. It should be in the center of the circle.

Helpful advice! To keep the cutting area clean during operation, it is advisable to use a vacuum cleaner that is connected to the router using a nozzle.

Choosing a manual wood router: consumer reviews

Before you go to the store to buy a router, it does not hurt to get acquainted with the opinions of consumers about certain manufacturers, as well as specific models. The opinion of buyers who have tried the tool in operation will allow us to weed out devices that have flaws that can only be identified during operation.

Consumer reviews can be found on the forums or on the websites of online stores:

“Not so long ago I got an Aeg MF 1400 KE 411850 router. For a home workshop, such a tool is just right. The device is very quiet. Even under heavy loads, it is no louder than a vacuum cleaner. In one pass, I can easily do edge work. For greater efficiency, I had to buy a table for a manual router. And I did the installation of the tool myself, which made me very happy. The cutting depth is very easy to adjust.

I have not had to work with panels yet, but I think the tool will cope with this. Thanks to the video tutorials, I already use the wood router to the fullest. Therefore, I find this model a suitable option for beginners.”

Igor Ivashin, St. Petersburg

“I wanted to buy a small tool for small jobs. My choice was a manual milling cutter for Interskol wood, the price of the FM-40 / 1000E unit is more than acceptable - only 4100 rubles. Having a small weight, the design develops sufficient power. I didn’t notice a small backlash right away, but considering the cost, I can’t call it a significant drawback. When I tried the router at home, the tool showed itself well. Let's see what happens in time."

Sergey Leibovich, Moscow

“A few years ago, I thought about creating a workshop in the garage. Among other things, I bought a milling cutter. The purchase of the instrument cost me almost 20,000 rubles. But, despite the high cost, the manual wood router Makita 3612 C completely beat off its price. This is the most reliable and indestructible tool that has ever fallen into my hands. The only thing missing from this model is the ability to fine-tune the height. The rest of the instrument is good.

Evgeny Novokshanov, Yekaterinburg

Choosing the best manual wood router: the price of popular models

For consumers wondering which handheld wood router is best, prices are not the last thing, as the size of a personal budget can act as a deterrent for most buyers.

Instrument model	Power level, W	Position in the ranking	price, rub.
Bosch GMF 1600	1600	1	33600
Makita RP1800F	1800	2	19420
Hitachi M12V2	2000	3	17500
Skil 1840 LA	1300	4	5950
Bosch GKF 600 Professional	600	5	10900
Makita 3709	530	6	5250
Hammer FRZ710 PREMIUM	700	7	7500
DeWALT DWE 6005	600	8	12620
Makita PJ7000	710	9	15000
Bosch GFF 22 Professional	670	10	36500

Helpful advice! To increase the comfort of using the tool, it is advisable to buy a milling table for a manual router or make it yourself. It will allow you to easily and quickly work with the device, without being distracted by holding the workpiece.

How to make a do-it-yourself milling table for a manual router

Any master can independently make a table for a manual router, video materials and ready-made drawings on the network are enough for even a beginner to cope with this task.

For work you will need:

• wooden bars with a square section (4 pcs.);
• plywood and chipboard;
• fasteners (hinges, bolts, nuts, etc.);
• jack;
• metal profile;
• steel plate 6 mm thick;
• aluminum guides;
• movable carriage-stop, which will serve as a guide;
• milling cutter

Instructions for making a table for a manual router with your own hands

For the table, you will definitely need a drawing indicating the position of the parts and their dimensions. Supports are twisted from the bars and scraps of chipboard of the appropriate size, which will serve as legs for the table. To increase the rigidity of the structure, horizontally install plywood connecting panels. On the right side of the table, cut a hole where the start button on the router will be displayed.

For the manufacture of countertops you need to take chipboard. This part must be lifting, so you need to install hinges. You will also need to make an additional support base. The base of the table for a manual router is best made of plywood sheet, 15 mm thick. Next, in the countertop, you need to cut a groove designed for the guides of the movable stop. A metal profile should be installed here. To make it convenient to move the workpiece along the table during operation, it is advisable to use a movable stop carriage. Instead, a guide from a saw is suitable.

For the manufacture of a longitudinal stop, you need to take chipboard. To ensure the mobility of this element, perpendicular grooves should be cut in the upper part of the stop, after which it should be attached to the table top with clamps. A small groove is cut in the middle. It will be used to dispose of chips and other particles that are generated during the milling process.

Then you need to assemble a box of thin plywood with a hole designed to connect the vacuum cleaner through a hose. This machine will deposit chips and dust. The box is fixed behind the perpendicular stop. After that, a 6 mm thick metal plate is screwed to the countertop so that their levels match. This is where the router will be installed.

Note! When fixing the plate, you need to carefully monitor that its edges do not protrude above the countertop. Otherwise, wooden blanks will cling to them.

The tool is attached to the bottom of the plate by an aluminum sole. For fixing, you can use bolts for which you first need to make holes. This method of fastening is convenient for changing nozzles and saves milling depth. Using a car jack, you need to design an elevator for the router. It allows you to control the height. You need to remove the handles from the router and screw aluminum guides in their place, which subsequently need to be connected to the jack.

How to work with a manual wood router: video instructions and recommendations

To learn how to work with a manual wood router, it is advisable to study the device of this tool well and the purpose of each part. Some device parameters need to be adjusted. To adjust the depth of milling, you need to use a scale and a knob. One step corresponds to 10 mm. In addition, you must immediately set the rotational speed of the cutter.

Before working as a wood router, a beginner should definitely get used to the tool and master its capabilities. It is advisable to start with small and medium speeds. Although do not forget that in this mode, the processing quality is significantly reduced. Therefore, the first samples should be performed in inconspicuous areas where errors can be masked.

At the initial stages, it is not enough to learn how to work with a manual router. A novice master must adhere to safety requirements. You need to clearly know where the button to start and turn off the tool, as well as its lock, is located. These elements are very important, because the safety and quality of work depends on them.

How to set the rotary speed for a wood router

The tool setting depends on the characteristics of the material to be processed. The router does an excellent job of cutting composites, plywood and wood. Taking into account the characteristics of the material, the rotational speed of the device is selected. Most often, the technical documentation that comes with the tool already contains the necessary information.

Parameters for adjusting the speed:

Cutter diameter, mm	Processed material	Speed ​​steps, mm
4-10	Hardwood (oak, beech)	5-7
12-20		3-4
22-40		1-2
4-10	Soft wood (pine, spruce)	5-7
12-20		3-6
22-40		1-3
4-10	Drywall	3-7
12-20		2-4
22-40		1-3
4-15	Plastic	2-3
16-40		1-2

Helpful advice! The network has a lot of information on working with a wood router, video materials can be used as a visual aid in the absence of experience in setting up and operating the tool.

How to fix the nozzle before working with a router: video and recommendations

Work with a milling cutter begins with the installation and fixing of the cutting nozzle. At the same time, it is very important to comply with safety requirements. All actions are performed only with the cord plug pulled out of the network.

Usually the tool has marks that help to set the cutter. If they are absent, the element is set to a depth not less than its own length. Each router model is accompanied by technical documentation, which describes the mechanism for the correct installation of cutting nozzles. There are no general rules for the tool, since each modification has its own design features.

Some models have a fairly simple structure, others are more advanced. On sale there are modifications equipped with a button that blocks the rotational movement of the shaft. The presence of this part greatly simplifies the process of installing the cutter.

In expensive models of the tool there are special cracks. Therefore, there is no single instruction. To install the cutter on a specific model, you can use the technical documentation provided by the manufacturer, or watch a video of a manual wood router on the Internet.

How to work with a manual router: videos and tips for using the tool

The use of the router will be completely safe, and the result of the work will be of high quality, provided that all safety requirements are met:

• the tool must be sharp, otherwise the quality of processing will decrease and the engine will warm up;
• before starting work, the workpiece material must be well fixed;

• do not try to complete the task in one pass, as a result of this, the loads on both the cutter and the tool as a whole increase greatly;
• the cutter is replaced only on a de-energized device, it is not enough just to turn off the device with the button, you need to unplug its cord from the outlet.

Compliance with these requirements will ensure safety during operation. It is very important to feel the instrument in your hands and get used to it. If the operation of the router is accompanied by strong vibrations, you need to stop and find out the cause of this phenomenon. Sometimes it is enough to adjust the rotational speed, and in some cases it may be necessary to replace a dull nozzle. A novice master can find many video reviews where experienced craftsmen show the process of making individual parts and even full-fledged products.

Wood carving with a manual router: a video review of the process

A milling cutter is a tool for milling: cutting material with a rotating cutter directed perpendicular to the surface to be machined. With the help of milling in the material, you can get straight and curly grooves, holes of complex shape; straight and curved edges can be profiled. All of the above fully applies to manual routers - the tool that will be discussed in this article.

Structurally, a manual router is very simple - the collet chuck is fixed directly on the motor shaft, the motor itself is placed in a housing that can move up and down along the guide rods rigidly fixed to the support platform (sole).

In addition to the most common and versatile vertical hand router, there are also several highly specialized types on the market:

Edge router (trimmer) - as the name implies, it is designed for processing edges. In essence, it is a router optimized for processing only edges. It is used by professional furniture makers, it is better for a home craftsman to pay attention to more versatile routers.

A lamellar router is another highly specialized tool for furniture makers for sampling oval grooves for lamellas.

Rotary or tile router - and this tool is usually purchased by master finishers for fine work on ceramic tiles.

Although hand routers were originally created for woodworking, modern routers are also capable of processing artificial stone, plastics and soft metals. The router can hardly be called a universal tool, but many of the operations that are performed by the router are almost impossible to do with something else. All this makes the router an indispensable tool for any master. Here is a short list of the features of a manual router:

• sampling a quarter (open groove - "steps" - from the edge of the board)
• shaped or straight edge profiling (furniture front, table top)
• execution of grooves, slots, folds, nests (for connecting parts to each other)
• production of seats for door locks and hinges
• cutting flat parts of various shapes
• cutting holes of various shapes in flat parts
• decorative carving and engraving

Some models allow grinding surfaces, making paired holes, milling ceramic tiles. But, although the list of materials processed by manual milling cutters is quite large, wood remains the main working material for milling cutters. And, accordingly, its main users are carpenters, master finishers and furniture makers.

It would seem that since the device of the router is so simple, then different models should not differ much in price, and even then - only due to different engine power. In reality, milling cutters of the same power can cost both 6,000 rubles and 30,000 rubles. What is the difference between expensive and cheap models? As materials from which they are made and in a variety of equipment included in the kit. A cast, not stamped, sole, precise positioning of rigs and the head of the router, light and clear, without backlash and distortion, the movement of the head - these are the features that distinguish a high-quality professional tool. Expensive routers are able to provide greater precision and accuracy in the processing of parts and give the master more opportunities for processing. In addition, some features have been added to the professional models that are not available in the basic models.

Characteristics of milling cutters

Power. Directly determines the limits of the router's capabilities - the maximum diameter of the cutter and the depth of processing. An increase in power leads to an increase in the weight and price of the tool, so you should immediately determine the requirements for the router and select a tool of the power that is needed based on the required processing depth and diameters of the cutters used.

Spindle speed. The cleaner the surface to be machined, and the harder the material to be machined, the higher the rotation speed should be. At the same time, some materials (eg plastics, ductile metals, some types of wood) cannot be processed at very high speeds. Also, some types of nozzles have their own requirements for speed. Based on the above, if the router is supposed to be used for different operations or with different types of materials, then you should choose a model with speed control. It should also be borne in mind that the spindle speed can drop under load, to prevent this phenomenon, some (mostly professional) models are equipped with the option maintain rpm under load.

To prevent jerks when starting the engine, there is an option soft start- Milling cutters equipped with this function, although they will cost more, will last longer by reducing adverse effects on the engine. Yes, and the risk of spoiling the part with a sharply broken cutter will be less.

It also has a function to prolong tool life. overload protection, which comes into effect when the permissible engine temperature is exceeded. This function can be implemented in different ways - from LED indication to forced power off, but in any case it will not be superfluous.

Collet size. The larger the cutter, the thicker and stronger the shank, and, accordingly, the larger the diameter of the collet chuck. As a rule, powerful milling cutters are equipped with cartridges of maximum diameter. However, often the kit comes with several interchangeable collet chucks. And, even if they are not included, they can usually be purchased separately. In extreme cases, you can use an adapter to install a cutter with the wrong diameter in the chuck. The cutter is fastened in the chuck using two open-end wrenches, usually included in the package. If the router is equipped spindle lock, when replacing the cutter, only one key is required.

Maximum cutting depth. A parameter that directly affects the power of the tool, therefore, the weight and price. Therefore, it is wise to start choosing a router by determining exactly the required maximum depth. For most furniture manufacturing jobs, for example, a milling depth of 45-50mm is sufficient.

Since it is not always necessary to cut to the maximum depth, most routers are equipped with cutting depth limiter, which can be adjusted to a predetermined depth before starting work. With simple basic models, depth adjustment is done quite roughly, often with a simple millimeter scale applied to the rods. Expensive models, on the other hand, can boast of special immersion depth meters and an accuracy of tenths of a millimeter.

Often, cutting is not done immediately to the full depth, but in stages. In this case, it will be useful to have on the instrument turret stop to several positions. This version of the depth gauge is a turntable with stops of various heights. By turning it, you can quickly and accurately change the current milling depth. In some models, the stops on such a limiter are made in the form of bolts, by tightening which you can adjust the depth of the milling steps, which increases the versatility of the tool.

Additional equipment

Additional equipment of the router greatly affects both its functionality and price. Therefore, the completeness and quality of equipment must be paid the closest attention. Even if the router is purchased for a specific purpose, it will be useful to find out if there is additional equipment for this model and whether it is possible to attach equipment from other models to it.

Parallel stop designed to guide the cutter at a constant distance from the edge of the part. With the help of this stop, grooves are milled in furniture facades, interior doors, etc.

Guide bar also designed for milling in straight lines, but, unlike the parallel fence, without reference to the edge of the workpiece. The guide bar allows you to mill at any distance from the edge and at any angle to it.

Copy sleeve used to copy a part according to a template. The sleeve is selected according to the diameter of the cutter and is installed in the sole above the cutter. The template is placed on the material being processed, and, resting the sleeve against the edges of the template, it is copied.

Compass allows milling along a radial line.

Choice options.

If you need a tool for a variety of household jobs that do not require high precision and quality of milling, the basic model will suit you at a price of 3,500 to 8,000 rubles.

If you are going to use a router professionally for the manufacture of furniture or interior doors, pay attention to models from manufacturers specializing in the production of professional tools. Such a router will cost from 8,000 to 20,000 rubles, depending on the characteristics and configuration.

If you are going to use a router for metal work, you should pay attention to models with a high number of revolutions. Such a tool can be chosen in the price range from 3800 to 13000 rubles.

If you need a powerful professional router to work with heavy cutters and with a large depth of milling, get ready to shell out 20,000 to 30,000 rubles.

If you are a professional furniture maker and you do not yet have an edge router, pay attention to this type of tool - it can significantly speed up the processing of edges and provide them with the best appearance. Such a tool will cost you from 7500 to 15000 rubles.

The choice of equipment for the home is a responsible task. Not only the quality of work, but also the convenience of using the device will depend on its quality and a well-chosen unit. The situation is similar with the question: how to choose a router for the home.

The milling machine is intended for processing of flat surfaces from a tree.

Technical parameters of the unit

The head part of the device is represented by a motor with handles and a collet clamp. The workflow will depend on what parameter this part has.. The overall performance is indicated by the power consumed when performing certain activities. The larger this parameter, the larger cutter can be set. In turn, this leads to an increase in the passage, during which the windings will not overheat. A similar detail allows for a faster feed.

However, there is also a downside. An increase in power also leads to an increase in the weight of the structure and its dimensions. In addition, a high torque value does not always allow the use of certain equipment designed for more delicate work.

Scheme of the device milling cutter.

By power, several classes of equipment are distinguished. The first type is represented by light cutters with a power consumption of 700 watts. The following classes are represented by medium and heavy devices that have a power of 700-1500 W and exceed the latter value. However, some manufacturers may introduce models with a power of 2300 W and a weight of 6.1 kg. They are the Makita RP 2300FC and DeWalt DW626, which have a 12 mm collet size, a speed of 22 thousand rpm and a cutting depth of up to 70 mm. For comparison, the Makita RP 0910 weighs 3.3 kg at 900 watts, but the cutting depth is reduced by 57 mm.

The spindle speed is in the range of 20-30 thousand revolutions, although the so-called edgers increase this value to 35 thousand revolutions per minute. At the same time, it should be noted that a small tool diameter allows you to develop a greater speed, while a large cutter requires a lower speed.

However, in practice, it turns out that a high speed helps to work with hard products and make the processing cleaner, but if the material is sticky or a high value is placed on accuracy, it is necessary to switch to a lower value. Therefore, a large number of such devices have the ability to make the necessary speed setting.

It would be useful to pay attention to products equipped with constant electronics for adjusting motor power. This function allows you to stabilize the speed initially set. As a result, this innovation helps to prevent slowdowns when changing machine feed patterns or when changing material density when working with inhomogeneous workpieces. A tool of the Hitachi M12V2 brand has a similar quality.

The most powerful installations have a smooth descent system, which eliminates network overload due to the influence of currents having a high strength value. In addition, in the presence of the system, the unit accelerates smoothly, sharp jerks are excluded. In addition, such a device will work longer, which is explained by the protection of nodes from shock rates of work. This system, for example, has the brand Bosch GOF 2000 CE.

It is also necessary to pay attention to the presence of overload protection, which is especially important when the temperature of the motor windings reaches a critical value. This system is presented in different ways. The simplest option is LED indicators, the most complex systems have a temporary power outage.

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The structure of the device: what to look for?

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The sole is the main element

For the manufacture of the support platform, an aluminum alloy or stamped metal is used. A sign of a high-class device is a molded sole. Its shape is distinguished by good geometry, a high degree of fit, which positively affects the quality of work. In addition, it is on this basis that there are lugs that allow you to fix various devices on it. An example is the AEG OF2050E.

It should be noted that the lower plane of the support must have an overlay and be closed with it. This part is made from materials such as plastic or hard lacquered wood. An important component is the opening in the sole, which is the limiter of the permissible value of the cutter.

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Rod fixture

Scheme of a parallel stop on a manual milling cutter.

The performance and functionality of the milling cutter is largely determined by the features of the movement of the head part along the vertical. The movement of the head occurs on two rods. The correct operation of this part can be indicated by the fact how smoothly the tool can be lowered without using additional force for this. The disadvantages of this part include the presence of excess resistance, distortions and backlash. Therefore, when choosing a router for use in the home, this aspect must be given great attention in order to prevent the presence of these problems in the device.

To fix the immersion depth of the working part, levers or special screw mechanisms can be used. Installation of the tooling departure occurs due to the vertical stop, the installation of which is carried out with different accuracy. The most advanced instruments in this regard are equipped with a vertical scale setting. In some cases, a wheel is used, which takes into account even small values ​​\u200b\u200bequal to a few millimeters. It should be noted that stable and accurate adjustment, carried out over a wide range, indicates a high-quality and functional apparatus. Among such devices, the Metabo OFE 1229 brand stands out.

Using a compass, the board is milled around the circumference.

If it is necessary to carry out a certain number of passes at the same time, while changing the value of the processing depth, you can use a turret equipped with several steps. This element is located on the head of the device and is the counterpart of the vertical stop, which can be changed in height. The turret helps, if necessary, to quickly reconfigure the immersion depth. If it is represented by several threaded bolts, then the steps can be adjusted according to the height value, simply by unscrewing or screwing these elements of the router.

There are models that have the ability to detach the upper part from the platform, which allows you to fix the device in a stationary installation. From this point on, the unit can also be used instead of a powerful drill or straight grinder. Milling cutters with holes in the sole can be fixed with a snap up. This makes it possible to process parts that have small dimensions, as can be done, for example, with the Hitachi M12SA2 device.

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Equipment and its attachment point

A simple emphasis can be made from a bar.

Fixing of equipment occurs on a spindle by means of a collet clip. The last element is a nut, which is screwed onto a slotted sleeve. She clamps the shank inserted in the specified place. It should be noted that the diameter of the collet corresponds to the diameter of the cutter, as a result of which it is important to immediately select the type of cutters to be used and their diameter.

For light milling cutters, shanks with a diameter of 6 mm are available, for medium ones - 8 mm. The most powerful units use 12 mm collets. Based on this, it can be stated that a large milling cutter is equipped with a large tail, which requires certain parameters necessary for the rotation of this part.

However, there is the possibility of installing a milling cutter with a thin shank into the seat, which is feasible when using a replaceable collet. This process must be treated with caution, as the feed rate of the router must match the recommended RPM. Otherwise, the shank will break due to high load.

A good quality collet will hold the shank securely while avoiding vibrations that can damage the bearings and the lip of the main body. The best are clamps equipped with several slots. This is due to the fact that when using such elements, a better centering of the cutter occurs. In this regard, the Bosch GMF 1600 CE model stands out.

Frankly, a hand router cannot be fully considered an indispensable tool in the “arsenal” of any home craftsman. However, if the owner of the house is serious about independent woodworking, if he expects that the products made by him will be done really accurately, if he plans to further improve his skills, then he can’t do without this tool.

General information about hand routers

Before proceeding to consider the criteria for choosing this tool, it probably makes sense to get acquainted with its functionality, main varieties and basic device.

What operations are “within the power” of a manual milling cutter

Of course, if the question arose of acquiring such a useful tool, then the potential owner should already at least in general terms represent the scope of its future application - what functions will be assigned to the router. And in this matter, I must say, everything is going very well - when using various equipment and, of course, with a “full hand” of the master, the functionality of a manual router is extremely wide:

Illustration	Brief description of the possibilities of a manual router
	This device allows you to cut simple and complex curly grooves and spikes, slots and folds, for example, to connect furniture parts, choose quarters.
	With the help of a milling cutter, the edges of the workpieces are perfectly processed. In this case, the edge can be either perfectly flat, perpendicular to the planes, or a certain complex configuration.
	With such a tool, operations for cutting out seating slots for locks, hinges, and other furniture fittings are greatly simplified. The milling cutter allows you to drill holes, both in the form of a regular circle and figured, and there are practically no restrictions on their size.
	It becomes possible to accurately copy complex parts, work on templates and patterns.
	The hand router becomes an indispensable tool for high-precision fitting of mating parts.
	With this tool, you can apply decorative carvings on the surfaces of wooden parts. And experienced craftsmen are even able to perform fine art work.

But even with the above list, the possibilities of a high-quality manual router are most likely not limited. A skilled craftsman will always find a "creative" use for this very useful tool.

Find out how to choose the right one for woodworking in our new article on our portal.

Varieties of manual routers

Several are on sale varieties of manual routers, which differ mainly in their purpose.

• The most common and, perhaps, the most versatile can be called a router (you can find the names of rod or submersible type). Almost all of the above operations are available to him - it all depends only on the skill of the worker and the type of cutters used. It is widely used both in production and at home.

• Lamellar milling cutters have a narrowly focused specialization, since their main purpose is to select grooves. But on the other hand, they cope with this function better than all others. They are used, as a rule, in furniture production. In domestic conditions, the presence of such a tool seems redundant.

• Edge routers (other names - edging or even trimmers). The tool is designed, as the name implies, for fast and accurate processing of the edges of parts. Allows you to perform fine work - chamfering, cutting grooves, processing parts without damaging their top veneer or laminated coating, accurate sampling of small nests and grooves. As a rule, it has a fairly compact size, which makes it easier to work in hard-to-reach places. Most often it is included in the arsenal of professional furniture makers, but for home use it turns out to be unprofitable. Although, how do you know...

• Filler mills are also classified as highly specialized. They are equipped with two cutters and are designed to create paired holes ( nests) for the subsequent precise assembly of furniture parts using dowels or curly dowels. Fully “loading” such a tool at home is also unlikely to work.

So, it is quite obvious that if we are not talking about equipment for professional carpentry, then the vertical plunge router will be the best choice for the home workshop. It is this variety that will be discussed further.

Vertical plunge cutter device

The illustration below shows a typical layout for most vertical plunge routers. Differences from model to model, of course, can be, but they, as a rule, are not of a fundamental nature, and are more related to ergonomics and additional equipment of the tool.

1 - housing located at the top of the tool. The housing contains an electric drive. A characteristic feature of vertical type hand mills is the absence of a gear mechanism, that is, the torque is transmitted directly from the electric motor to the working spindle. The case is often also called the head part or, in common parlance, the “head” of the milling cutter.

2 - support platform that moves along the surface of the workpiece during processing operations. A window has been made in the working area in which the cutter will be located. Usually the platforms have a plastic lining on the bottom, and in some models this lining is made of a transparent material - to improve visibility.

3 - guide stays rigidly connected to the platform. But their connection with the "head" is made movable - it moves up and down along these guides. And, springs are provided that tend to move the head to the top position. In many models, the guide rods are additionally covered with corrugated casings, which to a certain extent protect the movable joint from dust and fine sawdust.

4 - working handles. It is through them that the master transmits the vertical force that sets the depth of processing by the cutter, and the desired horizontal direction. Handles can have a different shape - such as shown in the illustration, pistol, mushroom, etc.

5 - as a rule, on one of the handles there are buttons (keys) for starting the router. Usually the buttons are paired - one starting, the second safety, in order to avoid accidental unauthorized activation of the tool.

6 - spindle speed controller. Hand routers allow you to process not only wood, but also many types of plastics, artificial or natural stone, and even some metal parts. Naturally, this requires adjusting the speed of the cutter. Yes, and when working with wood of various species, this function is necessary. Rotation speed adjustment can be performed electromechanically or electronically - it all depends on the specific model. The location of the regulator can also be different.

7 - working spindle with a collet chuck for installing a cutter. Many models provide the ability to change cartridges for different diameter cutter shanks.

Prices for a manual router

manual frezer

8 - vertical stop, with which the maximum depth of milling is set. It can be moved in height by fixing the position with the locking screw (pos. 9). To set the required processing depth, a scale with a pointer (pos. 10) is provided. It can be linear, as in the illustration, or another type, such as an arrow. Accurate setting, with an error of up to tenths of a millimeter, is provided by a special flywheel (pos. 11).

12 - step limiter for the depth of processing - it is against it that the vertical stop rests. Allows not only to set the maximum depth of milling, but also to carry out high-quality processing in several passes, so as not to “force” the cutters. After each pass, the limiter rotates around its axis, placing the next, lower step under the stop, allowing you to perform deeper milling. As a rule, it has screws with lock nuts, which allows you to accurately set the depth of each pass.

13 - a parallel fence that allows you to perform grooves or quarters, other types of processing or cutting slots parallel to the edges of the workpiece. This stop moves along the guide rods (pos.14), which are rigidly fixed to the platform with screws. The stop itself is fixed in the desired position using stoppers or screws (pos. 15). In some models, fine adjustment of the stop position is also provided, for which there is a special additional mechanism with an adjusting handwheel with a scale (pos. 16 ).

From point 13 and below, this is a removable tooling for a router that is installed as needed. As a rule, a parallel stop is included with the model. By the way, the parallel emphasis may not be the only “representative” of such additional equipment.

More details on some nodes and parts of a manual router will be discussed below, when considering the criteria for selecting a tool.

Criteria for choosing a manual router

So, it was decided that one cannot do without a manual router in the home “arsenal”. What criteria should be used to select the optimal model?

In many ways, the choice will depend on the expected frequency of milling work, their main focus, the type of material being processed, the experience of the home master (or his complete absence, which, however, will come with time), the financial side of the issue and other factors.

Hand router power

This parameter, by the way, concerns not only the power of the electric drive, but also largely determines the dimensions and massiveness of the entire tool. So, all manual vertical mills are conventionally divided into three subcategories:

Illustration	Power category of the tool and its features
	Lightweight hand saws. Power usually does not exceed 750 - 1000 watts. Tool weight - up to 3 kg. Able to perform short work without high load. They can also be used by professionals for fine work. The most affordable.
	Middle class manual cutters. Power - from 1000 to 1500 watts. The mass of the tool is from 3 to 5 kg. The optimal solution for most of the tasks specific to the home workshop.
	Heavy-duty manual cutters. Power from 1500 to 2500 watts. Weight exceeds 5 kg. Able to perform long non-stop work under heavy load. Designed for professional use. Requires considerable operator skills.

If you purchase the most inexpensive compact, low-power option, you may encounter a situation where, in the midst of work, when the master succeeds, and he, so to speak, went into a rage, the electric drive suddenly overheats, which forces you to make a rather long pause. Comfortable? - probably not much. There may be another case when the cutter begins to slip in a hardwood blank.

It turns out that a light milling cutter from these positions becomes inconvenient to use. Paradoxically, it can be rather attributed to a professional instrument. That is, for large-scale operations, the master has a medium or heavy apparatus, and especially delicate processing that does not require large volumes of output, and where accuracy is a priority, can be entrusted to a light one.

The best option for a home workshop is still a middle-class router, with a power of about 1200 ÷ 1500 watts. It will handle most tasks, with a considerable amount of wood sampling, it is “too tough” and hardwoods within certain processing time limits. Such tools have moderate massiveness (and, by the way, it is also needed to perform milling work).

But a heavy hand mill can literally exhaust an inexperienced operator - it is very difficult to handle a heavy tool. And, most likely, in the conditions of a home workshop, the high power and large “motor resource” of such a router will remain completely unclaimed.

True, if the milling cutter is supposed to be used in a stationary location, that is, as a “head” for a milling table, increased power can only be welcomed.

The speed of rotation of the working spindle and the possibility of its adjustment

One of the main quantities that determine the operational capabilities of the tool. Most modern hand routers have a maximum rotation speed of about 20 to 30 thousand revolutions per minute. AND this is a very acceptable indicator.. True, there are exceptions, both in greater and lesser directions.

It is clear that the higher the speed of rotation of the cutter, the cleaner the machined surface is. But some delicate operations are still best done at low speeds. In addition, if the processing of polymer blanks is supposed, then minimum speed indicators are generally required here, otherwise the plastic will simply melt under the cutter. It is required to vary the speed and depending on the type of wood. The diameter of the cutter is also of great importance, since the linear speed of the cutting edge on large cutters is much higher. The recommended indicator (maximum) is very often indicated on the packaging of the cutters. It should not be exceeded, otherwise the cutting edge will simply begin to overheat and burn the layer of wood at the processing site.

Prices for wood cutters

cutters for wood

Conclusion - the design of a manual milling cutter should provide the ability to adjust the spindle speed. It is, probably, on all models of the middle and heavy class, but on low-power ones it is often absent.
There are regulators with a smooth change, but step switching is more often used. The regulator itself has a digital scale, and the decoding of the absolute speed values ​​for each position is indicated in the product passport. Many models have a plate (diagram) directly on the body that corresponds to the position of the regulator with the number of revolutions.

The more adjustment steps, the more accurately it will be possible to vary the speed of rotation of the cutter. Usually 6 ÷ 8 positions are provided. Well, what specific speed to choose when processing a particular material or when performing various operations - all this will come with experience.

Another point is important. When choosing a router model, you should pay attention to the location of this regulator - it is desirable that it be placed in a place that would exclude accidental changes in the settings during operation, for example, by careless hand movement. In addition, each of the positions of the adjusting flywheel must have a certain fixation, or it must rotate rather tightly so that during vibration (and there is no getting away from it anyway), the selected position does not spontaneously shift.

"Submersible" mechanism of a manual vertical router

This is perhaps the most important unit that ensures the quality and convenience of working with a manual milling cutter. And here it is necessary to evaluate several positions at once.

• Working stroke of the cutter vertically. This indicator directly affects the possible depth of processing of the workpiece. For low-power milling cutters, the output usually lies in the range of 20 ÷ 30 mm, which is sometimes clearly not enough. Powerful professional-grade models allow you to move the cutter up to 70 ÷ 80 mm.

Far from always, this indicator is indicated in the product passports, and it has to be assessed already directly when getting acquainted with the chosen model. It is considered normal if the collet in its lowest position reaches the lower edge of the support platform. Even better, if in this position the clamping head even extends beyond the platform - this expands the possibilities of the tool.

• Guide rods. The head of the handheld router moves vertically along two guide rods. This is how the depth of processing of the material is set in the process of work. And in order to avoid difficulties during the execution of operations, it is necessary to carefully test the operation of this mechanism.

The movement of the head must be free, without backlash, distortion, braking. Its independent return to the upper position should be ensured by the springs placed inside. If during testing even slight difficulties in ensuring the movement of the “head” were revealed, then the purchase of this model should be abandoned. It is unlikely that the problem will go away by itself - rather, it will only get worse, as this can be facilitated by small sawdust that has penetrated into the slip units.

By the way, many manufacturers provide for the protection of these nodes from dust ingress - the rods are “dressed” in corrugated casings.

A stopper must also be provided to fix the position of the head in a certain position in height - many milling operations are performed this way. The stopper must be both reliable and convenient, and the execution is different. For example, an eccentric lever or a clamping screw (which is often one of the working handles of the router).

• Milling depth setting mechanism. The quality of operations depends on how convenient and accurate it is.

In the vast majority of models, this mechanism is made in the form of a rod stop with the possibility of its movement in height and fixation in a certain position. Most often, either on the rod itself or directly next to it, a scale with graduations in millimeters is applied, according to which the desired depth of material development is set. In addition, many models also have a fine depth adjustment screw, with which values ​​can be changed literally to tenths of a millimeter.

On the platform itself, an emphasis is also provided, against which the rod set at the desired milling depth will rest. This emphasis is most often made "revolving" type, that is, it has several height positions that can be set by turning it around its axis. Such an improvement allows you to initially set the required milling depth, but the processing itself is carried out in several passes, gradually increasing the depth. So the quality of work becomes much higher, the resource of the cutters used increases.

This "turret" stop may simply have a stepped configuration, but more often it is possible to further finely adjust each of the positions with a screw with a lock nut.

Unit for installing working cutters

As a rule, a collet chuck is used on the spindle of hand routers, which provides a reliable fixing of the cutter shank. A button or lever for temporarily locking the spindle is provided for tightening the cartridge, and a special open-end wrench is included in the kit.

But the diameter of the collet itself can be different. For example, light models often limit the use of cutters with a shank diameter of 6 or 8 mm. Milling cutters of a professional class allow the use of equipment with a diameter of 10 ÷ 12 mm.

In order to achieve maximum versatility of the tool, it is better to choose a model with a large diameter "regular" collet. The fact is that in this case there is a full opportunity to switch, if necessary, to smaller diameters of the shank. For these purposes, either special interchangeable collets or bushings are used. They are not always included in the package, but they are easy to purchase separately if the need arises.

True, when changing cutters to a smaller diameter, some caution should be observed. That is, you should take into account the permissible spindle speed for a particular tooling, and make timely adjustments to the settings. Otherwise, a thin shank may simply not withstand excessive load.

You should pay attention to the quality of the collets themselves. The appearance of even the slightest runout of the cutter must be completely excluded, that is, the chuck must ensure perfect centering. In this regard, clamps with the maximum number of collet petals show themselves better.

Working platform (sole) of the router

From workmanship of this most important part of the tool directly depends on the quality of the work and the capabilities of the router. It is the platform that becomes the main support for the workpiece, and its movement along the surface should not be accompanied by any interference.

And this means that the platform must be perfectly flat from below, without the slightest sign of deformation. As a rule, a polymer overlay is provided - with it, sliding on a wooden surface is freer, and the risk of accidental scratching of the workpiece is reduced.

The advantage when choosing should be given to cast metal platforms. They are of better quality and durable, and it is with them that truly professional models are equipped. Stamped metal platforms are lighter, cheaper, but sometimes they are “behaving”. In addition, the risk of their deformation during work with a heavy load is not excluded.

The area of ​​the platform must ensure good stability of the tool during operations. The size of the window for the cutter also matters - sometimes too small an opening can seriously limit the use of large diameter equipment.

It is understood that a good overview of the processing area must be provided. You can find models of routers (usually edge cutters), in which the overlay on the platform is generally made of transparent plastic. On the one hand, of course, it is convenient, but over time, the plastic fades, loses its transparency, which forces the replacement of the part. However, occasionally as they wear out, you have to replace any polymer lining of the sole - usually they are made removable for this.

Features of the electrical part

You should pay attention to some points directly related to the operation of the electric drive of the tool.

• The soft start system is not available for all models. But if it is, then this is a considerable "bonus" to the overall quality of the instrument.

When you press the start button, the router does not gain momentum, but gradually. This eliminates jerks, starting drive overloads. Careful attitude to the cutting equipment is provided, the probability of accidental damage to the workpiece at the beginning of its processing is minimized.

• The location of the start key is also of considerable importance - it should be convenient for the operator, not cause rapid finger fatigue, and allow you to quickly respond when controlling the processing process. As a rule, the start key is located on one of the handles. Although there are other options.

But in order to exclude the possibility of an accidental start, a safety button must also be provided. In addition, many models also include a start key lock button in the on position - this is necessary when performing many voluminous tasks. It is known that often a hand mill is installed permanently on the desktop (rack), and it is simply impossible to do without such a stopper in the on position.

• Modern professional models are equipped with an electronic system for automatically maintaining a given rotation speed. This feature allows you to perform the highest quality processing of parts. It is quite understandable that when milling dense wood species, due to the resistance exerted, the number of revolutions can drop. In addition, sometimes there are particularly compacted areas of the material, for example, in the area of ​​​​knots. Constant electronics will instantly respond to this and adjust the current drive power so that the rotation speed remains stable in any areas.
• In order not to worry too much about the possible overheating of the tool (during work, you can just get carried away and forget about the need for periodic pauses), it is best to purchase models equipped with a safety shutdown system. If there are signs of overheating, the thermal relay or a special mechanism on the motor brushes will simply break the drive power circuit.

Not all models have such a system - more often it is provided for high power professional tool. Alternatively, you can purchase a milling cutter, in which a color indicator will signal an imminent overheating.

• Convenient to use hand-held routers, which provide built-in LED illumination of the working area. This allows you not to reduce the accuracy of operations even in low light conditions or in conditions of unfavorable location of natural or artificial light sources in the room.
• It makes sense to immediately estimate the length of the power cord - if it is too short, then this will create a lot of difficulties when performing milling operations. Pay attention to the location of the cord - it should not impede visibility, maneuverability.

In addition, the unfortunate location of the cable often provokes its desire to be in close proximity to the treatment area - and this is already quite dangerous.

Additional equipment for a manual router

When working with a manual milling cutter, additional devices can be invaluable. Some of them are traditionally included in the package, others are purchased separately.

Parallel emphasis is usually completed with all models. It allows you to perform smooth processing parallel to the edge of the workpiece or template.

The accuracy of processing depends on the quality of the manufacture of the stop. Alas, there are products that do not stand up to criticism - with obvious deformations of the metal plate or with insufficient fixation of the rods. This is worth paying attention to.

More "advanced" stops allow even with high accuracy to set the value of the lateral overhang relative to the axis of rotation of the cutter. They are equipped with a special screw with a printed adjustment scale.

Another option to ensure sampling of accurate linear or processing edges according to given dimensions - this is the use of a special metal tire. Instead of a parallel stop, an adapter shoe is put on the bars of the milling cutter sole, which will move along the ledge of the tire, providing the required movement of the tool.

Special templates help to select openings, grooves, nests, decorative surface finishes with precisely specified dimensions. Many craftsmen make them on their own, but some universal models can be purchased at a specialized store.

But to work with templates or for "serial" reproduction of parts of complex configuration according to a previously manufactured one, special additional equipment is required.

It can be just a cutter with a bearing that moves along the edge of the template. But this approach is not always convenient. It happens that the bearing on low-quality cutters overheats and shatters at the most inopportune moment, which leads to damage to the workpiece.

Another approach involves the use of special copy bushings installed from below into the window of the support platform. In this case, the tool moves with the support of the protrusion of the sleeve on the edge of the template, exactly repeating its configuration.

Prices for manual router "Makita"

manual router Makita

The fastening of the bushings can be different - using curly protrusions or threaded fittings. So if the potential owner plans to have this type of processing operations, it makes sense to immediately evaluate whether the model you like allows you to install such nozzles, and what specific bushings are required for this router and whether they are on sale.

To perform smooth rounding of the corners of furniture panels, to cut round holes or nests of large diameter, circular nozzles help. They are also connected by rods to the working platform of the router and are rigidly fixed in the center of the future arc or circle. And by changing the length of the rod, the required radius is set.

Circular nozzles can be a separate "device". But very often, parallel stops, which have a special plumb for fastening in the center of the circle and are deployed upwards to perform this operation, quite cope with this role. It is probably not difficult to make such a device on your own, as convenient as possible for personal use, using standard clamps for attaching rods to the platform.

Most modern models are already equipped by default with a pipe for connecting a vacuum cleaner hose. This allows you to clean sawdust directly in the course of work, which improves the visibility of the working area, the quality and accuracy of the operations performed. If there is no such option, then you should ask if such a possibility is provided at all, and if there are adapters suitable for this model on sale.

Check out useful tips and an overview of vacuum cleaner models from our new article on our portal -

Concluding the consideration of the criteria for choosing a quality hand router, we can add the following. Such a tool should be purchased only in specialized stores, where there is the possibility of "personal communication" with the chosen model. The ergonomics of the router is very important, and to evaluate it without holding it in your hand, without trying convenience controls and adjustments is simply impossible.

In addition, in good stores you can get competent advice, try out the tool at idle and under load (there should be no beats, vibrations, backlash). It is advisable to immediately familiarize yourself with the terms of the manufacturer's warranty, with the location of service centers in the region of residence, with the availability of free sale of consumables and the most necessary components.

It is clear that preference should always be given to the original equipment of reputable manufacturers. It is hardly worth buying products from unknown companies - at least it would be wise to first get acquainted with them on the official websites (if they exist, of course) and on the forums of professional craftsmen.

The purchase of a milling cutter must be accompanied by a mark in the product passport indicating the place and date of sale. Without this, the factory warranty will simply remain a sham.

A brief overview of popular models of manual routers

The review will be provided in two "weight categories" that may be suitable for a home workshop - light and medium routers. And in each of them we will consider three models popular with users.

Acquiring heavy, powerful milling equipment without experience in performing work is an unnecessary adventure that will only result in a waste of a lot of money. And expensive equipment will be mostly idle, that is, it will become absolutely unprofitable.

Lightweight handheld routers up to 1000 W

"Fiolent MF 2 - 620E"

Lightweight model, through the use of which a huge number of novice masters have passed. It may be considered obsolete, but nevertheless it is still being produced and is in rather high demand, largely due to its affordable cost.

Prices for manual router "Bosch"

Bosch manual router

• The main technical characteristics of the router:

Power - 620 watts.

Spindle speed - adjustable, from 7800 to32000 rpm

The working vertical course of a mill - 50 mm.

The diameter of the collet chuck is 8 mm.

Turret stop - milling depth limiter with 3 positions.

Tool dimensions - 275 × 130 × 267 mm, weight 2.3 kg.

Soft start, illumination of the working area, the possibility of installing copy bushings are not provided. There is no built-in nozzle for the vacuum cleaner hose, but the platform has threaded sockets for its installation.

The average cost of a router is 3400 rubles.

Lightweight, inexpensive milling cutter, allows you to work with one hand.

Despite the low power, it is capable of long-term operation due to a successful drive cooling system.

Comfortable soft long cord.

Many speak of it as the best model for the first amateur steps in mastering milling skills.

• Disadvantages of the model:

Nevertheless, in comparison with modern milling cutters, it is already the day before yesterday.

A very inconvenient and inaccurate sampling depth system - a trial run with a subsequent measurement is required without fail - the errors can be several millimeters.

Poor build quality of the "immersion unit" - vertical guides often wedge.

The clamping screw-stopper, which simultaneously acts as a second handle, is rather flimsy.

The clamping screws for attaching the rip fence bars (included in the kit) are very short, so often fixing them is not enough.

An inconvenient, outdated and not reliable spindle speed control mechanism located directly on the trigger.

Many masters independently modify this model, and then successfully use it for a long time.

Makita RP 0900 »

Popular lightweight low power model. It is better to purchase the original Japanese assembly, but finding one is an extremely difficult task, since the main production facilities are located in China.

• The main characteristics of the router:

Drive power - 900 W

The spindle speed is 27000 rpm, and the possibility of adjusting this parameter is not provided.

The working stroke of the cutter is 35 mm.

Regular collet - 8 mm.

Dimensions of the device - 256 × 200 × 200 mm, weight 2.7 kg.

Soft start systems, maintaining a stable speed, illumination of the working area is not provided.

The average price of a router in the basic configuration (with a parallel stop and a removable nozzle for a vacuum cleaner) is 7400 rubles.

Makita router prices

Milling cutter Makita RP0900

• The noted advantages of the model:

Compactness, maneuverability, convenience when performing delicate operations, thoughtful ergonomics.

Convenient start key with safety button and lock on position.

Very convenient and accurate system for setting the depth of processing.

• Flaws

They are not numerous, and the main thing is still the lack of the ability to regulate the number of revolutions.

Sometimes the quality of the Chinese assembly is criticized - on some products, both backlash and jamming of the vertical rods were noted when the “head” was moved.

"Hitachi M8SA 2"

A very popular model of a well-known Japanese company, most often assembled in Malaysia. Low power milling cutter, well suited for fairly accurate and high-quality work in the home workshop.

Prices for manual milling cutter "VORTEX"

manual milling cutter VORTEX

Electric drive power - 900 W.

Spindle speed - 25000 rpm. /min without the possibility of adjustment.

The working stroke of the cutter is 60 mm.

The diameter of the collet chuck is 8 mm.

The mass of the router is 3.5 kg.

Soft start, illumination of the working area - not provided.

Approximate price - 8400 rubles.

Milling cutter prices Hitachi

Milling cutter Hitachi M8SA2

• The noted advantages of the model:

High performance for a long time.

Excellent ergonomics, the ability to change the inclined position of the working handles for the most comfortable.

Convenient and accurate system for setting the depth of processing.

High build quality, including the vertical movement of the "head".

Good equipment, including a parallel stop with the possibility of fine adjustment of the length of the departure.

Excellent overview of the work area. Possibility of fast installation of copy plugs.

• Mentioned disadvantages:

Lack of speed control on this model. A similar model with such a regulator is produced. But he is scolded for poor fixation of the chosen position - under the influence of vibration, he can “crawl” to another position on his own.

There were complaints about the rapid wear of the motor brushes.

The main disadvantage of users is the extremely uncomfortable collet assembly, which requires considerable effort when changing the cutter.

Medium power handheld routers (1000 to 1500 W)

Bosch POF 1400 ACE

A very popular model, considered by many to be one of the best in this category. The brand is Germany, but the assembly on the Russian market is most often Chinese.

• The main characteristics of the model:

Drive power - 1400 watts.

Spindle speedadjustable- from 11000 before 28000 rpm

The working stroke of the cutter is 55 mm.

Soft start system and maintaining a stable speed.

Illumination of the working area.

Collet diameter - 6 or 8 mm. A 10 mm adapter can be installed.

The mass of the router is 3.5 kg.

Bosch milling cutter prices

Milling cutter Bosch POF 1400 ACE

• Advantages of the model:

Excellent ergonomics.

A convenient system for installing copy rings and cutters that does not require the use of additional tools.

High accuracy of the operations performed, a convenient mechanism for setting the depth of the passage, with the possibility of precise setting up to 0.1 mm.

Good equipment, including a convenient case.

• Disadvantages reported by users:

The system for removing sawdust from the working area does not always live up to expectations.

There have been complaints about the presence of play on the guide rods. However, it is noted that the return springs are made too tight, which requires additional effort during operation.

The power cable is short.

It is not possible to use cutters with a 12 mm shank.

"Metabo OfE 1229 Signal"

An excellent high-precision cutter of the middle class of German design and original assembly.

• Model characteristics:

Electric drive power - 1200 W.

Extended range of spindle speed adjustment - from 5000 to 25000 rpm.

The working stroke of the cutter is 50 mm.

Collet diameter - 8 mm.

System for maintaining a stable number of revolutions.

Overheat protection - self-switching off motor brushes.

The mass of the device is 3.4 kg.

Approximate price - 22000 rub.

• Advantages of the milling cutter:

Excellent performance, high versatility.

Convenient and accurate system for adjusting the depth of processing - with arrow indication.

Highest reliability in operation, excellent build quality.

• Noted disadvantages:

Too tight trigger keys for the unaccustomed.

There are no lighting systems for the work area and soft start. At this price, they still clearly suggest themselves.

Limitation in the use of cutters with a shank diameter of only 8 mm.

Although the quality of the router is excellent, the price is still clearly too high for a tool of this power category, and with a far from complete set of possible functions.

AEG MF 1400 KE

Manual milling cutter of the German brand, traditionally assembled in China. A model famous for its rich equipment.

• Main characteristics of the device

Electric drive power - 1400 W.

The spindle speed is adjustable from 10,000 to 23,000 rpm.

There is a system of "constant electronics" - maintaining the desired speed of rotation, regardless of the load.

System of smooth start-up and quick braking of the spindle when turned off.

The working stroke of the cutter is 64 mm.

Collet diameter - 10 and 12 mm.

Overheat protection.

Illumination of the working area

The mass of the device in the submersible assembly is 5.4 kg, in the edge assembly - 4 kg.

The average cost of a set - 19000 rub.

• Advantages of the model:

First of all, it comes to mind without exaggeration - a chic package.

So, the set includes two bases with three soles of different configurations - for immersion, edging and copying operations. In addition - five copy sleeves of different diameters, two collet chucks (10 and 12 mm), a parallel stop with rods, a sawdust removal system with interchangeable adapters for a vacuum cleaner - for various types of operations performed, the necessary keys and mounting parts. The soles and protective guards are made of transparent plastic, which provides a good overview of the work area. The whole set is packed in a convenient bag.

Excellent ergonomics of the router in any kind of assembly.

Multifunctionality - in fact, two tools in one set.

Quite a reasonable combination of quality, staffing and price.

For "advanced" craftsmen - a unique opportunity to use the "head" as an electric drive for self-developed and manufactured woodworking machines.

• Noted disadvantages:

There are many complaints about the work of the submersible base - too tight running, frequent jamming. Judging by the reviews, many craftsmen, who do not want to part with this tool, immediately upgrade the vertical guide rods.

The device in the assembly version with a submersible base is very heavy (more than 5 kg) - not all operations are convenient to perform.

Linings, screens and guiding stops made of plexiglass wear out rather quickly, become cloudy, lose their transparency and require replacement.

Fasteners used for mounting accessories and overlays have an inch standard. In case of loss of screws, there may be certain difficulties in finding analogues.

So, the criteria for choosing a manual router were considered, tips were given for evaluating such a tool, and a brief overview of popular models was given. We hope that the information received will help the reader to choose the best option.

And to complete the overall picture, watch a video in which an experienced master gives his recommendations on choosing a router for beginners.

Video: How to approach the choice of your first manual router?