Pelargonium or geranium - what's the difference? When to plant royal pelargonium so that it blooms: tips Geranium leaves simple or complex

Pelargonium royal, or as it is also called royal geranium, is a very beautiful flower (plant), whose history begins in South America. As you already know, there is a tropical climate. Royal pelargonium was brought to Europe around the eighteenth century, it was from that very moment that breeders began to breed a huge number of varieties of this flower.

This plant is very loved for its most beautiful flowers, but for this it is necessary to take very close care of it.

If you correctly and carefully monitor and care for the royal pelargonium, then the diameter of the inflorescences can reach as much as twenty-five centimeters. But basically the average size of inflorescences is fifteen centimeters.

Peduncles have different lengths, from about five to ten centimeters, and the size is inversely proportional to the area (size) of the inflorescences.

The diameter of the flower is from five to seven centimeters. In the bud itself, the leaves overlap those below them in the form of a fan. Color and shape come out randomly.

You can also find a variety with purple, lilac and white flowers. Most likely there is no such color of a red tint in which the flowers of the flower simply were not painted.

The buds themselves come with contrasting inclusions in the center or the same type. In their form, they can be terry and simple with wavy, even or corrugated edges. Flowers just look great in photos.

Flowering will last from three to four months, unless of course the royal pelargonium is very well cared for, and provided with excellent top dressing.

Flowering is much shorter than other types of pelargonium. You can extend this period only with the timely removal of dried buds, as well as the application of fertilizers (mineral) with phosphorus and potassium, some people who work with flowers for this make a special inoculation of royal pelargonium on other types of this flower.

The smell during the flowering period is not observed, in any case, sharp, so most consider this more an advantage than a disadvantage, because not everyone likes the rich aroma of pelargonium (due to allergies, for example).

Care for royal pelargonium at home

As we have already said, caring for royal pelargonium at home is a rather complicated process. Even with the smallest violations of the rules for caring for a plant, flowering simply disappears.

Royal pelargonium grows very poorly in the shade, however, it also does not approve of the direct rays of the sun, the leaves can get a so-called burn.

Overfilling or underfilling will approximately equally badly affect the royal pelargonium. The flower can also be affected by various kinds of pests and diseases. Here are some of the most important rules for caring for a royal pelargonium plant at home.

Light - Royal Pelargonium loves sunlight in the right proportions, then it will bloom very plentifully and for a long time. You also have the opportunity to put the plant on the southern windowsill, but you will need to keep an eye on it so that the direct rays of the sun do not fall on the leaves, otherwise they will burn.

In winter, it is necessary to highlight the royal pelargonium additionally, because if the plant does not have enough light, then the stems will be very much stretched in length.

Temperature - In summer, the temperature in the room where the flower is located should not reach the limits of twenty-four degrees. In winter, the flower should be given the necessary rest, such a period of calm is possible only at a temperature of twelve to fifteen degrees.

If this is not observed, then the royal pelargonium simply will not bloom. Exactly the same can happen when the pelargonium is overheated, or even if you just put the flower in a pot in a draft.

Watering - The flower loves moisture, so pelargonium needs to be watered very often and plentifully. Let the topsoil dry between every two waterings. Some flower growers advise others to water the royal pelargonium in the pan, and not in the pot itself. Water must be sufficiently settled before watering, you can also use boiled water.

Humidity - If the room is very dry, then there is no need to spray pelargonium. The flower is very afraid of water getting on flowers and leaves.

Fertilizers - Top dressing should be carried out in the summer and spring periods (when flowering takes place). The best way is to use fertilizers with a sufficient content of phosphorus and potassium (mineral fertilizer), in which case you can extend the flowering period of royal pelargonium by another ten to fifteen days. Fertilizers need to be applied once every two weeks.

The soil - royal pelargonium strongly loves soil with a weak alkaline reaction or simple (neutral). In order to reduce acidity, you need to pour ash into the pot, since ash is also considered fertilizer.

It is important to provide good, and that there is no proper drainage for pelargonium, this is necessary so that water does not stagnate in the so-called flowerpot.

If you can provide the royal pelargonium with maximum proper care, then your flower will be able to go through a flowering period absolutely every year for two to three months (if there is excellent fertilizer, you can extend flowering even longer).

Most people who have royal pelargonium, despite the huge number of difficulties and factors, are simply happy and satisfied with the presence of this flower in their home, because the beauty of pelargonium is worth the effort that people put into growing this species.

Reproduction, as well as pruning and grafting

Royal pelargonium really likes propagation by cuttings - this is the most popular, simple and effective way.

However, it should be remembered that rooting in water is generally unsuccessful, because the cutting simply rots and then never takes root, so it should be planted directly into the ground.

So to speak, cuttings are carried out mainly in the second half of the last month of the summer period (August), or at the beginning of the month of the autumn period (September). A branch is cut from the very top, seven to ten centimeters long.

The cutting must have at least two or three knots. After cutting it, it is left alone for a couple of hours, so that everything dries out a little, after which it is planted in moderately moist soil with fairly good drainage. We recommend mixing the soil with sand (coarse). The stalk does not need to be covered with a film.

In order to protect the sprout from all sorts of diseases, the soil is fried in the oven or treated with a special concentrated solution with the addition of potassium permanganate.

After such a special treatment, all cuttings of royal pelargonium are planted in the ground, however, it is necessary to land no earlier than forty-eight hours later, because the ground must be prepared in advance.

After fourteen days (or more), when the rooting period ends, the plant is planted in a pot. In order to speed up this process, we recommend very carefully pinching off the leaves on the branch, in which case absolutely all the energy of the pelargonium will go to the formation of new roots.

Reproduction by seeds- probably the most time-consuming process, but if you still succeed, then you can bring out very hardy pelargonium plants with a sufficiently extended flowering period.

Special seed material is purchased in stores. Seeds are oblong, but somewhat small. These seeds are planted in a small shallow container.

The soil must be somewhat structural, the best option would be a mixture of sand and peat, plus ash. Seeds are deepened into the ground by half a centimeter.

The landing itself is carried out in the middle of the winter period (February, preferably in its middle). The very first shoots appear after about thirty days. At the moment when two real leaves are already observed on the sprouts, they carry out the so-called picking into a smaller pot.

In winter, the royal pelargonium is drawn out, because it does not have enough light. We advise you to cut it before the flowering period begins. Around the end of February. The tops of the branches must be cut very carefully in order to form a very beautiful crown.

They can also be used for plant propagation. The pruning process itself should not be radical, because the flower will stop blooming.

Pelargonium royal is rarely transplanted, once every two to three years. It must be remembered that pelargonium blooms only in a cramped pot; a very spacious flowerpot will not work.

You can force the royal pelargonium to bloom a little longer only with the help of a special vaccination for other species. The best choice would be a fragrant pelargonium or a unique species. On the zonal pelargonium, the royal simply does not take root.

For vaccination, you need to take a twig with three or two leaves, make a cut (necessarily oblique) in length from one centimeter to one and a half.

You must make exactly the same cut on pelargonium, after which you need to correctly combine the plant with a twig, then you can tie it with a woolen thread or simply wrap it with plastic wrap.

Difficulties

Pelargonium royal loves careful cultivation, but all sorts of difficulties often appear. For example, in some cases, pelargonium leaves turn yellow. We will explain why this happens.

If the yellowing is just at the tips, and the rest of the leaf is elastic, then your royal pelargonium probably does not have enough moisture. However, if the leaves simply rot and wither, then the reason for this yellowing is proportional, that is, overflow.

Also, if you moisten the soil too much, then the so-called water cushions may appear on the leaves. At very low air temperatures in winter, the leaves may take on a red color.

In such cases, pelargonium should be placed a little further from the window. And with a lack of lighting, the leaves of the royal pelargonium may generally fall off.

Royal pelargonium is susceptible to various kinds of diseases. For example, it is very dangerous when your royal plant has a blackened leg, in such cases it is simply impossible to save pelargonium.

You just have to throw out the pelargonium along with the soil, and the pot itself should be treated with bleach. If there is an excess of moisture, then gray mold will appear on the leaves, caused by a fungus.

Such leaves must be removed as quickly as possible and after that, neat and proper watering should be established.

Of the pests, royal pelargonium is often affected by whitefly and weevil. You can destroy such pests with special insecticides, and if there are just a lot of such pests, we advise you to simply collect them.

Most flower growers are wondering why the royal pelargonium does not bloom. The reasons may be different, for example, imperceptible rot or fungal infections. It is necessary to carefully examine the leaves and stems, as well as the basal region.

Sick areas of pelargonium are removed and treated with so-called fungicides, while watering the plant must be significantly reduced.

The rapid fall of flowers will be associated with an excess of nitrogen in the soil or very dry air in the room. Pelargonium will not want to bloom in a very spacious pot.

The problem can also manifest itself due to the fact that there will be little lighting, in such cases the pagons become very long, and the flower stalks simply will not develop.

The temperature in winter and spring can also interfere with the flowering period, overheating in the summer is also included. Pelargonium is also harmed by a very frequent transplant.

Types of royal pelargonium

The list of species of such a flower as pelargonium is very large, we will highlight only the most popular. These include the following:

• Sallymunro. Incredibly beautiful plant with rather large flowers. The upper leaves are red, one might say burgundy in color with a dark tint, almost black with a white edging around the edges. The undersides are pink like apple blossom. Such a plant will bloom several times in one season.
  
• German series candy flowers and its variety Candy Flowers Pink with Eye. The so-called large-flowered plant with a pink tint. The leaves will have black spots.
• Candy Flowers Bright Red all the same german line candy flowers. The flowers are cherry in color with black blurred spots on the leaves. Plants branch quite well, and thus are able to form a beautiful crown, and also its advantage is long flowering.
• Pelargonium royal Mona Lisa. Variety with incredibly large flowers of a beautiful white hue. In the very center, next to the red stamens, in some cases you can find thin touches of pink. The edges of these leaves are wavy.
• BlackPrince. An insignificant plant in size, up to forty centimeters in height. The flowers are plum-colored and the petals are silver-edged.
  
• GeorginaBlythe. The plant is very small, a maximum of thirty-five centimeters in height. Flowers at this height are strangely large enough, with a bright red color and an orange tint. The throat itself is white. The edge of the sheet is wavy, in the form of ruffles.
• Morwenna. The variety is quite compact. The flowers are large with a rich red color with a dark tint. The edge of the leaves resembles lace. This variety of pelargonium looks amazing in photographs.
• WhiteGlory. This variety bears huge flowers from seven centimeters in diameter, white. Plant height up to forty-five centimeters.
  
• LavenderGrandSlam. The plant is of medium height with purple flowers. The uppermost petals will have dark feathers with a purple-dark tint.
• Carisbrooke. This variety has light pink flowers. On the upper leaves you can see a thin marble pattern, it is made in the form of strokes and spots.
• Regaliachocolate. The variety has large flowers with a dark red color and a chocolate tint. The leaves are very wide open, and their edge is even.
• Mandarin variety. Incredible medium sized plant with delicate orange color. In the center are white buds. The edge of the leaves is smooth with white edges.
  

It is better for you to choose a plant to your taste, while taking into account the characteristics of absolutely each variety. The most correct and accurate care, then it will delight you with flowering every year. The most important thing is to love pelargonium.

Friends, pelargonium and geranium are different plants, although they belong to the same family. These are two daughters from the same Geraniev family - Pelargonium and Geranium. However, outwardly they do not look alike, which happens with sisters. Let's figure out which of the sisters lives in our house pelargonium or geranium, what is the difference. We will find out what is the difference in care and use, consider the photo.
You can distinguish them by flowers, leaves, everything, but their seed pods are very similar. How similar are the beaks of a stork and a crane. After all, the flowers got their names from the Greek words pelargos - stork and geranos - crane.

Plants blooming in large bright red, white and pink umbrellas on the windowsills are not geraniums at all, as many used to think. The correct name for indoor flowers is pelargonium. The real geranium is an unpretentious frost-resistant cute garden plant that winters well in natural conditions.
Scientists confused two species of the same family in ancient times, back in the 18th century, and since then the confusion in the names has been fixed, without spoiling the pleasure of flower beds at all. And the difference or differences are important for understanding how to care for pets.

These lines were written by Boris Pasternak, and it never occurs to anyone to insist on the name of pelargonium in these delightfully cozy lines, and even more so to look for differences or understand pelargonium or geranium what is the difference.
Of course, time puts everything in its place, new varieties of geraniums and pelargoniums are being developed, and breeders name their creations correctly, often causing confusion among ordinary lovers: “Geranium or pelargonium? Why did a familiar geranium suddenly become a pelargonium?
Both genera belong to the Geranium family and have many species. However, it will not work to cross them with each other, since they are genetically incompatible. They differ in a number of characteristics characteristic of each genus.

Pelargonium or geranium what is the difference

photo of geranium

Geranium

Photo of pelargonium

Pelargonium

Judging by the photo, the differences between the sisters are so great that the question of what is the difference between representatives of the same family goes into the area of ​​​​differences in care and use.

How to distinguish pelargonium from geranium

It will be possible to distinguish by appearance, it is painfully different sisters.

Pelargonium

This is a southern flower, which in Russian climatic conditions can only exist as an indoor flower. In summer, it feels good on balconies and open verandas, but for the winter it must be brought indoors. Pelargonium (LINK) loves good lighting. If it is not enough, it stops blooming. However, direct sunlight of pelargonium, like geraniums, is contraindicated. Watering is necessary moderate, in waterlogged soil, the roots quickly begin to rot.

Pelargonium flowers have an irregular shape: the 2 upper petals are somewhat larger than the 3 lower ones. They form large umbrellas of inflorescences. Different species have many shades from white and pink to dark red. There are bicolor varieties. But there is no blue, blue or purple pelargonium.

Geranium

The genus contains a large number of species. Some, most often with blue and purple inflorescences, are wild-growing, they can be found in the forest or in the meadow. Garden varieties are distinguished by a variety of colors, there are white, pink, raspberry and even almost black shades.

Geranium flowers consist of 5 or 8 radially symmetrical petals. They are often solitary or form a semi-umbrella inflorescence. They are very popular with gardeners, as they are unpretentious, winter without shelter, many bushes do not need to cut their leaves in autumn. In addition, they are very decorative even outside the flowering period.

What is the difference in care between geranium and pelargonium

Garden geraniums are perennials.

• In winter, they do not need to be dug up or covered, they will overwinter remarkably. At the end of the season or early spring, it will be necessary to remove the withered dried geranium greens, this is done once a year.
• Planted in soil with good water permeability. Planted in small groups. Geranium belongs to ground cover plants, it spreads very well, and sometimes too well over the site, in a short time it is able to cover large areas of the earth.
• They don't need supplements.
• Willingly settles in the shade, partial shade and feels good in dry shade.
• Has a strong branched root system

Pelargonium is a person of a completely different care.
This is a heat-loving child of the south; it grows outdoors as an annual.

• For the winter, they either dig it up and transfer it to boxes for winter storage in a cool place or throw it away. Keep pelargoniums at a temperature of 5-7 degrees with limited light and sometimes moistening the soil.
• Flowering needs light. Zonal pelargonium grows well and blooms on balconies with a semi-shady location, when there is shade for less than half the day, and the rest of the time the sun.
• Needs regular feeding and moderate watering.
• It has a small fibrous root.

Application difference

The difference in species leads to different uses.

geranium

Different types of garden geraniums are best planted in different parts of the garden in small groups. Together they create untidiness due to dissected leaves and medium-sized flowers. Apply:

• As a ground cover unpretentious perennial plant
• As a background filling of voids in a flower garden
• Filling difficult dry garden areas in the shade
• For landscaping slopes, thanks to a tenacious strong root system

Pelargonium

Pelargoniums are applied

• Like annuals in the garden
• As indoor plants (backlit in winter)
• For landscaping open balconies, terraces

Types of geranium

Geranium garden perennial magnificent actually has a magnificent lilac color, prefers the sun and partial shade.

Dark brown geranium (Geranium Phaeum) - partial shade, shade

Geranium Oxford - penumbra, shade. Takes space quickly.

Geranium blood red - partial shade.

Types of pelargonium

• Pelargonium angel
• Pelargonium ivy or ampelous

Pelargonium zonal got its name because of the colored zones on the leaves. Please note that these colored rings resemble small balls. This is exactly what our grandmothers called their pelargoniums or "geraniums". Colored stripes - zones are pronounced or less pronounced, I noticed that this depends on the flower variety, light and temperature.

Pelargonium royal or home is distinguished by large luxurious flowers with a small height of the stems.

Angel pelargoniums are similar to miniature royal pelargoniums with the same beautiful flowers, but in miniature, and the plant itself looks more compact.

Pelargoniums are ivy-leaved, they are also ampelous, in fact, the shape of the leaves resembles ivy. The flowers are simple or double on long peduncles, which gives the impression of a huge hat with a small plant. Surprisingly well withstand winds and rains.

Pelargonium fragrant is valued not so much for its flowers, but for its fragrant foliage, from which essential oil is obtained.

Pelargonium or geranium, what is the difference, I know, but this does not prevent me from naming my flowers, as my mother, grandmother and great-grandmother called them. So much tenderness in this phrase - my geraniums, isn't it?

For pelargonium to bloom luxuriantly, read here on the site

Perennial herbaceous or semi-shrub plants. Stems erect or creeping, branched. The leaves are beautiful, simple, palmate or palmately dissected. Flowers of various colors, collected in few or many-flowered umbellate inflorescences. Plants are photophilous, unpretentious in culture, easily tolerate a lack of moisture. Propagation by seeds and cuttings. They do not hibernate in open ground. In everyday life they are incorrectly called "geraniums".

General information about pelargonium

Pelargonium (Relargonium), Geraniaceae family.
population: there are about 250 species.
Place of origin: South Africa, Mediterranean.
Usage: beautifully flowering, decorative leafy.

Useful properties of pelargonium

If you put pelargonium leaves in jars of jam, then it will not be covered with mold.

Pelargonium oil is widely used in aromatherapy. It acts on the psyche as a calming and uplifting mood. It can even help with depression. In addition, it is used to treat burns, ulcers, wounds, dermatitis and eczema. It also helps with problems during menopause and relieves PMS.

Some types of pelargonium are widely used as insecticidal plants.
Plant size: up to 1 m in height.
Height: fast.
Bloom: May - October.

Pelargonium varieties

Pelargonium zonal - P. zonale hybridum hort.

For the first time, zonal pelargonium as a potted plant appeared in Europe at the beginning of the 18th century. Its varieties were obtained as a result of repeated crossings of zonal pelargonium (P. zonale L "Herit.) with other species - pelargonium clobuch (P. cucullatum Ait), settler pelargonium (P. inquensis Ait), as well as with some other species and forms. Its name "zonal" (in Greek zona - "belt") arose because of the concentric pattern in the form of a strip of a darker color that is present on the sheet and repeats its shape.

Zonal pelargoniums are distinguished by large brightly colored flowers, collected in large dense or loose umbellate inflorescences. Their flowers are simple, semi-double, double and densely double. The color of the petals is the most diverse - white, pink, red of various shades, lilac, purple, two-tone, with a bright eye in the center or with a border around the edge.

Varieties of zonal pelargoniums differ in plant height, shape and color of leaves and flowers. The leaves are rounded, softly pubescent, on long petioles.

Undersized, or dwarf, pelargoniums include varieties whose plant height does not exceed 20 cm, medium-sized - up to 40 cm, tall - 42 cm or more.

Depending on the structure and color of the flowers, the varieties are divided into cultivar groups - phlox-shaped, having flowers with crimson petals along the edge and white petals in the center, as, for example, in the varieties "Hollywood Star", "Kardia" and others; star-shaped - with sharp-toothed petals, like the "Fireworks" variety; cactus-like, having flowers with narrow, horizontally arranged, sometimes twisted petals, as in the varieties "Attraction" and "Noel"; pink-bud, or rose-shaped, - varieties with densely double flowers, with petals that do not unfold to the end, like the "Rosebud" variety, and resembling flowers of small-flowered polyanthus roses in shape; bouquet - varieties that are characterized by simple flowers, collected in dense large inflorescences, such as "Salmon Flash", "Cheggy", etc.

Zonal pelargoniums are one of the most hardy, abundant and long flowering plants for universal use. They are grown both indoors as potted plants, where they bloom almost all year round, and outdoors, where flowering lasts from May until frost. They can be grown in the form of a bush or form a plant in the form of a small tree. They live up to 20 years or more.

Variegated pelargoniums also belong to the group of zonal pelargoniums, the selection of which is carried out only for the decorativeness of the leaves.

One of the first such varieties, "Mrs. Pollock", appeared in England as early as 1858, then the varieties "Miss Burdet Courts" (in 1860) and "A Happy Thourght" (in 1877) were created here. .

Variegated pelargoniums have beautifully colored leaves of white, yellow, silver and bronze colors of various combinations and shades, with an unusual pattern of the leaf blade and its border. Modern variegated varieties have more complex combinations of colors than earlier ones - yellow, bronze, red, pink and brown, and in the most incredible contrasting two- and three-color combinations, and not only in concentric, but also in sectoral patterns on the sheet.

Most varieties of this subgroup, especially old ones, have small nondescript flowers. They are grown mainly for the beautiful color of the leaves.

These plants are usually low. They are also used as potted and container plants in the interior, but most of all - as carpet plants.

The group of zonal pelargoniums is the most common in the world in terms of use and has more than 1000 varieties, there are also mutant and hybrid forms.

Large-flowered pelargoniums - P. grandiflorum hybridum hort.

Large-flowered pelargoniums are also called English or royal, since they were first brought to England, where they have been grown since the 17th century and where a large number of their varieties have been created. These pelargoniums can also be found under the names French and domestic. In the US, this group is called Lady Washington.

The origin of the group of large-flowered pelargoniums is not clear enough, but there is no doubt that the varieties included in this group are complex hybrids and occurred as a result of crossing at least three types of pelargoniums - large-flowered pelargonium (P. grandiflorum Wiilld), pelargonium clobuche (P. cuculatum L "Herit .) and deep pelargonium (P. angulosum L "Herit).

Plants of varieties of this group are the tallest among decorative pelargoniums and are distinguished by fantastically beautiful flowers collected in large lush inflorescences in the form of bouquets. Their stems are thin (0.4 - 0.7 cm in diameter), woody at the base. In the first year they grow by 40 - 80 cm (depending on the variety), and in subsequent years they can reach a height of 2 - 3 m, and they must be tied to a support.

Numerous very large (up to 8 cm in diameter) bright flowers, similar to exquisite orchids, resemble a flock of lovely moths of a wide variety of colors and shades against a green background of foliage. The top two petals are usually larger and darker than the others, while the bottom three have brighter contrasting tones. Some flowers have spots of various dark colors on a white or pink background of petals, while others have a whole range of shades, from light to darker - burgundy, purple, lilac, raspberry, brown and almost black. Usually, two- and three-color flowers with large dark spots on the upper and with a bright pattern on the lower petals create spectacular combinations of colors of lilac with purple, pink with crimson, which gives the plant a particularly elegant look. But there are varieties with plain white or light pink petals. On a long, up to 12 - 17 cm, peduncle, there are 5 - 7 flowers in inflorescences-umbrellas, sometimes branching. The corollas of the flowers are funnel-shaped, the limbs of the petals overlapping each other, often fringed, sometimes terry.

The leaves are rounded, 5 - 7 cm in diameter, often folded, in some varieties they resemble maple, bright green in color, serrated or serrate at the edges, covered with sparse hard pubescence.

Old varieties of this group usually bloom only once a year, in spring or early summer, but abundantly, but modern varieties bloom in the open field all summer, and indoors, with good care and lighting, for nine months. They do not tolerate open ground conditions well. The bright sun and especially the wind spoil the leaves and contribute to the cessation of flowering. Therefore, large-flowered pelargoniums are used mainly in room culture, on the windowsills of bright sunny windows, in the interior of bright halls and other rooms, as well as for decorating deep loggias and other rooms protected from the wind.

To date, more than 1000 varieties of large-flowered pelargoniums are known.

Ivy, or thyroid, pelargoniums - R. x hederofolium hort., P. peltatum hybridum hort.

The varieties of this group are complex hybrids, they were obtained as a result of multiple crossings of thyroid pelargonium (P.peltatum (L.) Ait.) with faceted pelargonium (P. laterites L "Herit.). Starting from the 18th century, these crossings were also involved zonal pelargonium (P. zonale L "Herit). The ivy-leaved pelargonium "Ville de Paris" was first introduced to the market in 1786.

Ivy pelargoniums are ampelous plants with flexible, thin, smooth, branching, creeping or drooping stems that form a bright color cascade of numerous umbellate inflorescences on long vertical peduncles up to 12 - 18 cm long. In inflorescences there are from 8 to 15 medium-sized flowers. They are simple, semi-double or double, with open petals, white, hot pink, red, lilac or purple in color. The number of inflorescences and flowers in them varies depending on the variety.

Ivy pelargonium leaves with little or no pubescence, fleshy and dense, shiny, with a waxy coating, reminiscent of ivy leaves. Depending on the cultivar, the leaves are green or with a brown concentric pattern, sometimes with bronze or changing hues to pinks and reds.

Ivy pelargoniums are used as a pot culture for outdoor and indoor gardening. With good care, they bloom indoors throughout the year. But they are especially good for outdoor floral arrangements in hanging vases and baskets, in wall and window boxes, on balconies and balustrades. They can be guided to grow up a trellis or wall. From them you can create lovely standard (in the form of a small tree) forms. In areas with a warm climate, they also serve as excellent ground cover plants.

Varieties of ampelous pelargonium, unlike varieties of zonal pelargonium, are resistant to fungal disease - rust.

Fragrant, or fragrant, pelargoniums

This group includes species, garden forms and varieties that are grown for the sake of a pleasant smell that appears when touching a plant or delicate, often cut and openwork leaves. Shoots and especially their leaves are covered with small glandular hairs containing fragrant essential oils. Evaporating or escaping when touched, these oils create a specific pleasant aroma. Different species and their hybrid forms differ in aroma, reminiscent of the smell of strawberries, nutmeg and coconut, mint, ginger. There are also forms with a delicate lemon-apple aroma, the smell of roses, verbena, pineapple.

Their flowers are mostly simple, rather small and inconspicuous. Although several new varieties have already appeared with larger flowers. The color of the flowers is usually pink or lilac, but there are forms with both white and red petals.

Representatives of this group are mainly shrubs or semi-shrubs, characterized by high growth. Therefore, in the Mediterranean countries with a warm climate, they are used in landscaping parks, on curtains of the second plan, in the design of stairs, porticos, loggias. Due to their phytoncidal and healing properties, the most decorative forms are grown in bright rooms in pots and containers.

Fragrant pelargoniums are cultivated on industrial plantations in order to obtain geranium oil. This oil is used in medicine, perfumery, food industry.

In Germany, fragrant pelargonium leaves are used as a seasoning for some dishes and drinks. They are added in the preparation of apple jelly, puddings and creams.

To date, about 100 species, varieties and forms of both ancient and modern fragrant pelargoniums are known.

Pelargonium fragrant - P. odoratissimum (L.) L "Herit. ex Ait

This is one of the most common species in culture. It is a compact shrub with a short branched stem 9 - 11 cm high. Leaves with a strong, pleasant apple aroma. The flowers are white, small, up to 1.5 cm in diameter, collected in inflorescences from 3 to 11 pieces.

Pelargonium fragrant - P.x fragrans Willd.

The leaves of this plant have a nutmeg scent.

Pelargonium vine - P.vitifolium L "Herit.

Semi-shrub up to 60 cm high. After two years of cultivation, it needs support. The leaves are green with a yellowish tinge, densely pubescent, deeply cut on petioles, 2-3 times longer than the leaf blade, making the plant look very openwork. The leaves have a pleasant lemon scent. In an inflorescence from 6 to 10 light lilac flowers with a diameter of 1.5 - 2 cm. The two upper petals are more intensely colored and have dark purple streaks.

Pelargonium felt - P. tomentosum L "Herit.

Stems densely leafy, densely pubescent. The leaves are rounded-funnel-shaped on long densely pubescent petioles. Flowering at the end of summer. The flowers are lilac in color, they are in inflorescences from 3 to 8 pieces.

Pelargonium capitate - P.capitatum Ait.

Semi-shrub 50 - 60 cm high, requiring support. The leaves are green, pubescent, lobed, with a serrated edge. They have a pleasant aroma, reminiscent of the smell of a rose. In inflorescences from 7 to 11 purple-pink flowers with dark purple veins up to 2 cm in diameter.

Pelargonium lemon yellow - R. x Limoneum Sweet.

Based on this species, a very original and attractive hybrid form "Variegatum" has been obtained. It is distinguished by curly variegated foliage. The leaves are small, divided into lobes, green with a grayish pubescence and a white border around the edge. The leaves have a lemon scent. The flowers are pink with purple veins.

Fine-toothed pelargonium - P. denticulatum Jacq.

Weakly branching shrub up to 50 cm tall, in need of support with age. The leaves are green, yellow, densely pubescent, strongly cut. They have a sharp pungent odor. The flowers are light lilac, the two upper petals are dark lilac with dark purple veins, small, up to 2 cm in diameter, collected in inflorescences from 6 to 10 pieces.

Pelargonium myrrisophylla - P. myrrhifolium L "Herit. ex Ait.

Low (up to 15 cm) shrub with a herbaceous thin stem. The leaves are green, pubescent, pinnate, on very long (up to 20 cm) petioles. Has a peppery aroma. The flowers are cream, up to 2 cm in diameter, collected in inflorescences of 3 - 6 pieces.

Pelargonium pink - R. roseum Willd.

Stems 60 - 150 cm long with sparse branches. The leaves are light green, often with a yellow tint, with soft glandular pubescence, emitting a delicate rose scent. The petioles are 2-3 times longer than the leaf blades, so from a distance the plants look openwork. They bloom at the end of summer. Inflorescences on short peduncles consist of 3 - 8 flowers with narrow open petals of light purple color.

Southern pelargonium - P. australe Jacq.

The plant is very compact with a height of 30 - 35 cm. The leaves are soft, dark green, densely pubescent, lobed, with a serrated edge. They have a slight pleasant aroma. The flowers are white with purple veins, small, 1.5 cm in diameter, collected in inflorescences of 10-40 pieces.

On the basis of the described species of fragrant pelargonium, varieties and hybrid forms have been obtained. Among them there are varieties and forms with original curly, fringed and variegated leaves.

Succulent Pelargoniums

This group is still the least known in our country. Among succulent pelargoniums, there are forms with thorns and without thorns. They have repeatedly branching, decoratively curved stems, woody at the base, in which moisture accumulates. During the dry season, the plants shed their leaves.

Succulent pelargoniums are notable for their unusual bizarre silhouettes of their stems, reminiscent of miniature copies of baobabs or some fantastic creatures. These pelargoniums are valued when creating compositions in the bonsai style, when decorating exotic interiors, when landscaping architecture of small forms and rocky gardens.

About 10 species belong to succulent pelargoniums, but most often used in the interior are humpbacked (P. gibbosum L "Herit), cortus-leaved (P. cortusaefolium L "Herit), and when creating bonsai - fleshy (P. carnosum L "Herit.), n. regular (P. alternans Wendl), n. fluffy (P. crithmifolium Smith), n. thick-stemmed (P. crassicaule L" Herit), n. angular (P.tetragonum L "Herit).

Pelargonium humpback - P. gibbosum L "Herit

Stems decumbent with knobby thickened leaf nodes. Without special shaping, they grow up to 40 - 60 cm in a year and can reach a length of 3 m. The leaves are oval, with deeply dissected lobes, on short petioles. On peduncles 10-14 cm high, there are 12-16 fragrant flowers of yellow-green color, 1.2-1.5 cm in diameter.

Pelargonium cortuzolifolia - P.cortusaefolium L "Herit.

Stems bizarrely forked branched, vertical, thickened, woody, brown in color, with close internodes. The leaves are bluish-green, small, rounded, slightly wrinkled, with jagged edges, pubescent, on long petioles, arranged in whorls in the form of bundles at the ends of thickened shoots. The plant looks very exotic.

Pelargonium fleshy - P. carnosum L "Herit.

Stems thickened, fleshy, woody. The leaves are green, elegant elongated, pinnately dissected, on long petioles. The flowers are small, yellow in color, in small openwork inflorescences on long pedicels.

Pelargonium next - P. alternans Wendl.

The stems are thick, fleshy, woody, light brown in color, strongly branched, with rare small spines and winding cracks in the bark. The leaves are sparse, light green, small, elongated, pinnate, with serrated edges.

Pelargonium fluffy - P.aithnrifolium Smitb.

Stems are forked, creeping. Lisgya are pinnately lobed, pubescent, bluish. The flowers are white with a red spot in the center, small, collected 4-6 in umbrellas on short pedicels 1-2.5 cm long.

Thick-stemmed pelargonium - R. crassicaule L "Herit

The stems are thick, fleshy, brown in color. The leaves are green, small, pubescent, with jagged edges. The flowers are white with a purple speck on the upper petals.

Pelargonium angular - P.tetragonum L "Herit

The most commonly used species from this group for propagation, the stems are branching, bright green, tapering at the nodes. Annual growth is 30 - 50 cm, but in the process of growth in 3 years it can reach a height of 120 - 180 cm. The leaves are light green, small, rounded, pubescent, few, often underdeveloped, sometimes falling off early. In short axillary inflorescences, 2-3 large flowers up to 7 cm in diameter of light lilac color. The flowers are unusually graceful: the upper petals are wide, up to 2 - 2.5 cm, and the lower ones are narrow, falling early. They bloom in spring and summer, but only on well-developed and illuminated plants.

What can be purchased in our stores?

Unfortunately, so far our stores do not please us with a special abundance of seeds and a variety of varieties. Pelargonium seeds will have to be looked for.

Seeds of ivy pelargonium are, in general, extremely rare. Basically, these are imported seeds (Italian, German or English). Most often you can find a mixture of different colors of Summer Showers. But even then, with a fair amount of luck.

With zonal pelargonium, everything is more favorable. The most common bags of the Dutch company Sem with a mixture of "Multibloom" (white, red, pink, lilac and salmon flowers) or separately with a variety with bright red flowers. The same "Multibloom" mixture can also be found in the "NK Profi" series. In the same series, seeds of the "Star of the Moscow Region" variety have recently appeared with pale pink flowers with a darker center. In addition, the NK Corporation also produces a mixture of varieties called "Early Universal".

On this list, unfortunately, while it is possible and to finish. Other seeds are still extremely rare.

So, all of the above inspired you and you asked yourself a completely logical question: what needs to be done so that all this beauty appears on my site or balcony. I can offer you three options.

Option one

The easiest thing to do is to find pelargonium seeds in the store and grow your future flowers from them. However, this option also has its drawbacks. Firstly, the seeds must be sown no later than the end of February, otherwise the pelargonium will bloom only by autumn. So, hurry up! Keep in mind that it takes about 5 months from germination to flowering. Secondly, it is not always possible to find seeds in the store. To do this, it is better to go to a large garden center. Thirdly, pelargonium seeds germinate quite slowly (up to 20 days) and it’s bad that novice flower growers can be disappointed.

Option two

If you or (more likely) your grandmother has a large pelargonium bush on the window for a long time, you can start cutting it. To do this, cut off a few apical shoots with 4-5 leaves, remove the bottom two leaves and place the cuttings in water. You can also dip the cuttings in a special powder that stimulates the formation of roots (for example, in "Kornevin"), and place them in a mixture of peat or garden soil with sand. Cuttings should root at room temperature and in good light. With the help of cuttings from one adult plant, you can get an average of 5 to 15 new ones. By the way, such pruning only benefits the old bush.

Option three

Finally, in the spring (April-May), you can buy ready-made pelargonium seedlings. Theoretically, it is sold in garden centers and flower farms. But in practice, it is not always possible to find it. So, the first two options are more reliable.

Secrets of successful cultivation of pelargoniums

-Pelargonium prefers full sun but will tolerate shade.
- Pelargonium is thermophilic, but will survive a very light frost.
-Pelargonium should be watered abundantly in summer, and moderately in winter.
-It is desirable to provide pelargonium access to fresh air and low humidity.
-The plant prefers fertile, well-drained soil. The soil mixture consists of equal parts of soddy land (or compost land), humus, peat and sand.
- From spring to autumn, it is necessary to apply flower fertilizer weekly, to which it is desirable to add trace elements. On sale you can find a specialized liquid top dressing "Pelargovit".
-For the formation of neat bushes, it is recommended to pinch to enhance branching.
- Withered flowers must be removed.

Pelargonium care and maintenance

temperature(winter): 10 - 12
temperature(summer): 18 - 22

Lightingpelargonium: light, sunny. blown, in summer the plant is taken out into the fresh air, but in a shady place. Pelargoniums are kept in winter at a temperature of 10-15 degrees.

Wateringpelargonium: in summer - plentiful, in winter - limited. All pelargoniums have the ability to accumulate water, so they are considered dry-resistant.

reproductionpelargonium: Pelargoniums perfectly propagate by seeds and vegetatively.

When propagated by seeds, many seedlings can be obtained in the offspring. However, plants grown from seeds that are obtained at home, as a rule, do not reproduce the decorative properties of the mother plant. With vegetative propagation, i.e. when growing pelargoniums from cuttings, young plants are identical to the parent, but the output of cuttings from one indoor plant is small - 5-8 pieces per year. Nevertheless, both methods of reproduction are used both at home and in production conditions, the features of which are described below.

Pelargonium seeds are most often propagated in order to obtain new varieties, special varieties and first-generation hybrids (F1).

Plants grown from seeds obtained from free pollination usually do not inherit varietal traits. However, Western firms have now developed and established seed propagation of more than 100 varieties of pelargonium. Obtaining F hybrids is very effective and profitable, as it allows you to dramatically increase the yield of products - seeds and plants. Basically, these hybrids are distinguished by good growth and development, compactness, uniformity in many ways, and increased resistance to diseases.

As mother plants for seed production, the best specimens are selected in terms of brightness and purity of color, shape and size of the flower and inflorescence, as well as their number on the plant.

Seed plants are kept in large pots, containers or on racks of greenhouses and greenhouses with loose fertile soil with a soil layer depth of 12 - 15 cm and good drainage. In the summer, pots with mother liquors can be taken out and dropped in or planted directly in open ground.

In order to obtain seeds, mother liquors are used up to 3 years, since in the future they become very old and become less productive. In autumn, before bringing mother plants from open ground for wintering indoors, rejuvenating pruning is done, at the same time forming a bush and preparing cuttings for propagation. The shoots that grow after pruning bloom in spring, and on these bushes you can cross again and collect seeds.

Caring for mother plants consists in regular watering, removing drying leaves, loosening the soil and shading the plants from direct sunlight.

Seeds on pelargonium plants are formed from pollination by insects, from self-pollination and artificial (man-made) pollination.

Flowers in the inflorescences of pelargonium bloom non-simultaneously, but within 25 to 30 days. During this period, pollination should be carried out in order to obtain new varieties or hybrids. Each flower blooms for 4 - 9 days, and there can be up to 50 of them in the inflorescence. In pelargonium, non-simultaneous development of female and male generative organs (stamens and pistils) is observed. Pollen matures before the pistil and is capable of pollination already in the bud ready for opening; it spills out of the anthers on the very first day of flowering. The pistil of the flower is ready for the perception of pollen only on the second day. Therefore, on the day when, on one of the selected plants (mother), the pistils are somewhat advanced from the perianth, fresh pollen taken from the flower of another (paternal) plant (pollinator) is applied to their stigmas with a soft brush. To increase the guarantee of successful pollination and seed production the next day, pollination of the same flowers should be repeated.

To carry out the intended crossing, it is first necessary to select a suitable pair of plants of different varieties. Further, from the flower of the mother plant (artificially pollinated), which is in the bud stage, ready for opening, the anthers are removed with tweezers or a needle.

This is done so that its own pollen does not get on the stigma of the pistil of this flower, but only the pollen of the paternal variety you have chosen.

Seeds ripen 26 - 40 days after pollination. They mature well. In one inflorescence there can be up to 40 fruit-boxes, and in one fruit - from 1 to 5 achenes. The collection begins when the overgrown, elongated fruit turns brown, but when it has not yet opened, because the mature box, drying up, spontaneously cracks and the seeds, equipped with voles, easily scatter. Fruit picking is carried out in dry weather, during the summer and early autumn. They are stored in boxes or crates in a dry place at room temperature and stirred occasionally. As the fruits dry, they open, and seeds with fluffy lionfish appear. Pelargonium seeds are relatively large, oval, covered with a dense leathery shell. The hard shell greatly complicates the germination of seeds, so this process is extended in time. Shoots appear unevenly within 70 - 90 days. Therefore, it is better to sow freshly harvested seeds, since the shell hardens strongly during storage.

In order to accelerate the germination of seeds and increase their germination, when sowing, the shell from the seed can not be separated, but it is desirable to carry out scarification, i.e. violation of this dense shell. Scarification can be carried out in three ways - mechanical, chemical and thermal.

In the first case, the seeds, cleared of volatiles, are placed between two layers of fine-grained sandpaper and gently rubbed. Thus, not only the integumentary scales of the seed are removed, but the shell is also broken, which contributes to further rapid germination.

However, scarification must be carried out very carefully so as not to damage the embryo.

In the second case, scarification is carried out by placing the seeds for half a minute or a minute in a 0.8% solution of sulfuric acid, then they are washed in running water and dried in air, after which the seeds are ready for sowing.

The thermal scarification method involves alternately placing seeds for 20 seconds in boiling and cold water, or seeds with unpeeled integumentary scales are poured with boiling water, followed by keeping them in this water for several hours. In order to disinfect the seeds before sowing, they are soaked in a weak (0.5 - 1%) solution of potassium permanganate.

From scarified seeds, the first shoots appear after 3 - 5 days, and mass - after 15 - 20 days. Without pre-sowing preparation, seed germination is delayed up to three months.

Scarified seeds are sown dry, having previously been dusted with approved fungicidal preparations. Seeds can be sown throughout the year, but it is better from November to April. At the same time, only 5-6 months pass before flowering, seedlings and potted products are ready for planting on time. When sowing in June - September, the growing period increases, since in winter the growth and development of pelargonium is delayed.

For sowing, a sufficiently loose, well-moisture and air-permeable and free from pests and pathogens soil mixture is required. The composition of the mixture can be different: a mixture of soddy soil, sand and high-moor peat (2:1:1), peat with perlite or peat with sand (1:1).

Before sowing, the substrate is lightly tamped.

Seeds are sown in pots or boxes scattered, sprinkling with a thin layer of earth 0.2 - 0.5 cm thick. Then the crops are carefully moistened. At a temperature of 18 - 22 ° C, mass shoots appear after 7-10 days. Regular careful spraying of crops with water at room temperature is necessary.

To prevent fungal diseases of seedlings after sowing, the soil is regularly (once every 7-10 days) watered with fungicidal preparations.

In no case should the soil be waterlogged after germination.

The picking of seedlings is usually carried out one to one and a half months after sowing the seeds. The day before, the earth mixture is watered with fungicidal preparations in order to prevent fungal diseases. After picking seedlings, similar watering is also periodically needed for recovery.

Damage to seedlings by fungal diseases and their death is facilitated by low temperatures, drafts, excess moisture and contamination of the soil with phytopathogenic organisms. Therefore, care during the growth period of dived seedlings should consist in maintaining a room temperature of 18 - 22 ° C, carrying out careful watering, loosening, airing, as well as regular weekly tillage by adding permitted fungicides during irrigation.

In plants grown from seeds, 140-150 days pass from the moment of sowing to flowering. The first flowering occurs after a good vegetative development of the plant. While during vegetative propagation, inflorescences begin to develop already during the period of rooting of the cuttings. The growth of shoots and the whole plant is delayed. This contributes to the creation of a very attractive small bush with lush large inflorescences.

The main method of propagation of most species and varieties of pelargonium is green cuttings, which can be carried out almost throughout the year. Most of the pelargonium planting material is grown for summer decoration in open ground. Varieties of zonal and ivy-leaved pelargoniums are cut for this purpose from September to April, and for their release in pots, cuttings can be carried out all year round. Large-flowered and succulent pelargoniums are most often cut from June to September, since it takes 10-12 months to prepare standard plants. If cuttings are taken at other times, then by the time of implementation they will be non-standard - too large or, conversely, too small. Fragrant pelargonium can be cutting simultaneously with zonal pelargonium.

In production conditions, it is more convenient to do this twice a year - in spring and autumn. The cuttings are cut in September, before the onset of frost, when pruning is carried out before the plants are brought indoors for winter maintenance, and in the spring, at the end of February and March, when the plants are pruned and shaped, preparing them for spring planting and sale, so how during the winter the growth of plants does not stop.

By spring, young shoots grow from the cut plants, and the bush acquires a normal compact shape.

The yield of cuttings depends on the age and development of mother plants. From a one and a half to two-year-old plant, an average of 15-20 cuttings can be harvested, from a three-year-old plant - 35-37 cuttings.

As mother plants for cutting cuttings, one and a half to two-year-old, completely healthy plants with decorative features typical of this variety are selected. They are grown in large pots, in containers, boxes or on racks, where they are more fully provided with food and moisture.

For cuttings, the apical part of young main and lateral shoots with 3-4 developed internodes and several close internodes at the apex, as well as the middle parts of non-lignified shoots with 2-3 internodes are used. The cuttings are cut with a sharp knife 0.5 cm below the leaf node. The leaves are removed, with the exception of the uppermost (apical). If there are inflorescences, then they are plucked out. Then the cuttings are dried, leaving them for 6-8 hours in air at room temperature, until the cut is covered with a thin film. If this is not done, then fleshy, juicy cuttings, under adverse conditions, after planting in the soil, can easily rot. Before planting, cuttings are dipped in crushed charcoal.

The cuttings are planted in a plentifully watered, leveled and compacted substrate to a depth of 2 - 3 cm. The substrate for planting the cuttings must be clean, not infected with infection. Powdered perlite, mixed in half with fine-grained perlite (fraction 0.1 - 0.3 cm), or well-washed river sand is best suited for this. A two-layer substrate is prepared as follows: the lower layer (6 - 7 cm) is mixed from an equal amount of sand and soddy soil, and the upper (3 - 4 cm) - from river sand and perlite.

Rooting of the cutting occurs in the upper layer, and the resulting roots grow into the lower layer with an earthen mixture, where they receive nutrition.

Rooting of cuttings in greenhouses is carried out on racks or in boxes, and in room conditions - in boxes or pots.

The optimum temperature for rooting cuttings is 18 - 22 °C. In sunny weather, the cuttings must be shaded. In the process of rooting, the leaves of the cuttings may turn yellow and dry out. They must be removed, but not cut off, but carefully cut off, leaving part of the petiole so as not to cause damage that will cause subsequent decay and death of the cutting. The remaining part of the petiole will fall off on its own over time. Cuttings take root within 3-4 weeks.

Air humidity: without spraying.

Transferpelargonium: Annually young geraniums should be replanted. This is done in the spring before growth begins. The capacity for the roots should be small, otherwise leafy shoots will develop strongly, but the plant will not bloom. A mixture of soddy, leafy, humus soil and sand (2:2:2:1) is suitable for growing geraniums.

top dressingpelargonium: Geraniums respond positively to mineral and organic top dressing in the spring and summer. To form a bush, pruning or pinching should be done, although geraniums do not like frequent and strong pruning.

pruningpelargonium: pinch for bushiness, cut off in spring, leaving 3-4 eyes on each stem

Pelargonium care features

Errors in care can be determined by the appearance of the plant.

Yellowing lower leaves. Reason: if the leaves remain elastic or only the edges dry, the reason is a lack of moisture. If the leaves are sluggish or rot, it's an excess of moisture. In both cases, the leaves may fall

Reddening of the edges of the leaves. Reason: temperature too low. Move the pot away from the window on frosty nights.

Darkening of the base of the stem. Causes: black leg disease. The diseased plant is destroyed. In the future, use sterilized soil and avoid waterlogging it.

Bare stems; fall of the lower leaves. Reason: lack of light - pelargoniums are photophilous.
Watery soft pads on the leaves. Reason: edema is a non-contagious disease associated with waterlogging of the soil. Reduce watering.

Gray mold on leaves. Cause: gray rot caused by the fungus Botrytis; occurs when the soil becomes too wet. Contagious disease - remove affected leaves, treat with a systemic fungicide, better ventilate the area and reduce watering.

The absence of flowers on Pelargonium home. Cause: If the plant looks healthy, then the likely cause is too warm air in winter.

Geranium, kalachik, crail, pelargonium - the most popular indoor plant. This unpretentious flower will become a real decoration of your windowsill or balcony, in addition, it has many healing properties. About 400 varieties of pelargonium are distributed around the world.

Types of home geraniums

Thanks to the work of breeders, a large number of varieties and hybrids of geraniums have been bred, differing in the shape and color of inflorescences and leaves. Let's get acquainted with the most common types.

1. Geranium zonal- the most common window sill decoration. Has a huge number of varieties. The plant tolerates changing conditions well, is characterized by unpretentiousness and frequent flowering. The flowers are bright, collected in inflorescences. The foliage is round, slightly wavy, the edge of the foliage is dark red or brown. The leaves have a characteristic odor. Flowers are simple five-petal, semi-double (have 6-8 petals) and double (have 8 petals or more). Flowering can continue year-round, if you create optimal conditions for the growth and development of pelargonium. The smaller the pot in which the ball grows, the more abundant the flowering. Geranium captivates with a variety of shades and colors of petals - bright, plain or multi-color, with a border or multi-colored spots.
2. Geranium royal- an unusual and very beautiful view with large flowers of a wide variety of colors. The flowers are up to 15 centimeters in diameter. There are a lot of hybrids of this species; this is a favorite plant of many flower growers and breeders. A distinctive feature of the subspecies is the presence of a dark spot or strip on the petal. Petals are both simple and terry, having a wavy or corrugated shape. The pair of upper petals are more velvety and slightly larger than the others. This type of pelargonium reaches a height of up to 50 centimeters, the foliage is terry, reminiscent of maple leaves. The flowering period of royal geranium lasts no more than 4 months, flowering occurs only in plants that have reached the age of two. This species is the most demanding for care and development conditions.
3. Pelargonium fragrant. This subspecies got its name for a wide variety of flavors - rose, ginger, strawberry, lemon; just touch the leaf. Bred hybrids exude a wide variety of odors. The inflorescences are small, mostly pink or purple. Geranium oil obtained from this plant has a wide range of applications: in cosmetology, medicine, cooking, and everyday life.
4. Pelargonium ampelous (thyroid). It has thin and fragile shoots, reaching a length of 1 meter. The foliage is star-shaped, dark green, with a glossy surface. The inflorescences look like brushes. Flowers simple or double, of the most diverse colors, reach 5 centimeters in diameter. Flowering lasts about 4 months, mainly in the summer. Well suited for planting in hanging flowerpots.
5. Angel. The plant is characterized by flowers similar in shape to pansies, unpretentious to conditions and care, has a spectacular and bushy shape, reaches a height of 40–50 cm (with systematic pruning). If the trunk is not cut, the ball will take on a falling shape. Flowers have a wide variety of shapes and colors. The flowering period usually occurs during the summer months. The plant blooms so profusely that sometimes the leaves are not visible behind the inflorescences.
6. Unique. This subspecies was bred in the process of crossing brilliant and royal geraniums. The leaves have a dissected shape, dark green in color, exude a light aroma of spices. In general, this plant is considered highly decorative by flower growers. The inflorescences are predominantly red, with a white center, reminiscent of royal pelargonium in shape. Very rarely come across flowers of white and pink color, even more rarely - flowers with spots and stripes.
7. Pelargonium succulent. The subspecies is characterized by branched and curved stems, lignified below, stems with thorns are less common. Plants of this species can acquire the most unusual forms of the stem. Often succulent geraniums are used in a wide variety of interior designs.
8. Pelargonium lemon (pink). This plant blooms very rarely, so flower growers refer to it as a non-flowering species. The bright green leaves of a complex dissected shape look very unusual, which was the reason for the wide distribution of the kalachik among indoor plant lovers. When touched lightly on the foliage, the flower exudes a subtle scent of lemon. Geranium reaches a height of up to one and a half meters.

How to care for geraniums

Watering. In the spring and summer, pelargonium consumes a lot of moisture, so watering must be frequent. In winter, water a little less often to prevent stagnation of water and excessive dampness. Spraying leaves kalachik does not tolerate.

Soil loosening is a necessary action for proper plant care, as it provides good oxygen access to the root system and prevents stagnant water and root rot.

Fertilizer must be carried out in spring and summer, but not often, so as not to harm. Phosphate fertilizers promote flowering.

Pinching produced at the end of winter or in spring in order to form a beautiful form of pelargonium and increase the number of inflorescences. It is necessary to pinch the shoots on the 6-8 sheet.

Lighting should be good enough, but it is better to hide the plant from direct sunlight in order to prevent leaf burns. In the winter months, it is better to remove the roll from the windowsill altogether and put it in a dark place.

Reproduction methods

1. Reproduction by cuttings. Cut off small cuttings (3-5 leaves) from the top of the shoot, it is recommended to cut the cut obliquely. Then, for several hours, leave the cut cuttings in the air, then sprinkle the cut site with a biological root growth enhancer and plant them in the ground. When planting cuttings, it is better to place them closer to the edge of the flower pot. The most suitable months for propagation by cuttings are February, March, July and August. Rooting occurs within a month, at which time it is better to water by spraying. Rooted plants are planted one at a time in small pots.
2. Reproduction by cuttings more commonly used by breeders. Pots with a diameter of 5 cm are used for sowing, and when the seedlings grow up, they can be transplanted into a larger pot. Flowering seedlings from seeds occurs in about a year.

To form a magnificent form of pelargonium, the upper kidney must be pinched.

Synopsis 5

Leaf structure. Leaf arrangement. Leaf venation.

Sheet- a lateral vegetative organ growing from the stem, having bilateral symmetry and a growth zone at the base.

The sheet usually consists of leaf blade , petiole (with the exception of sessile leaves); some families are characterized stipules .

leaf blade – an extended, usually flat part of a leaf that performs the functions of photosynthesis, gas exchange.

The base of the sheet the part of the leaf that connects it to the stem.

Stipules - paired leaf-shaped formations at the base of the leaf. They can fall off when the sheet is unfolded or remain.

The leaves of some plants, such as birch, maple and plantain, do not have stipules. There are no stipules in adult leaves of oak and bird cherry. They die quickly.

Petiole - the narrowed part of the leaf that connects the leaf blade to the stem with its base. It performs the most important functions: it can turn and bend, thus changing the position of the leaf blade in relation to the light. In addition, it has a mechanical significance for attenuating blows to the leaf blade from rain, hail, wind, etc.

Leaves with petioles are called petiolate.

But many plants, such as dandelion, aloe, and wheat, have leaves without petioles. Such leaves are called sedentary . They articulate with the nodes with wide bases.

Variety of leaf blades

Leaf blades in plants are very diverse.

In shape, they can be, for example, rounded (cuff), heart-shaped (linden), ovoid (crow's eye), linear (wheat).

Leaf blades are either whole (apple, wheat, lilac) or dissected to varying degrees (geranium, yarrow, calendula). In addition, leaf blades differ in the shape of the apex (blunt, sharp, notched, etc.), edges (solid, serrated, serrated) and base (rounded, heart-shaped, narrowed).

Leaf edge shape

Leaf venation.

An important distinguishing feature of leaves is the nature of their venation.

In the leaves of oak, birch, one powerful vein stands out, located in the middle. This is the main vein, around which branched small veins form a grid. It is clearly visible in autumn on fallen leaves. Such venation is called reticulated.

If veins depart from the main vein to the left and right, resembling the structure of a feather, such venation is called pinnate , or cirro-reticulate .

The leaves of the sycamore maple, caustic buttercup have several large, almost identical veins, fanning out from the base of the plate. They also branch multiple times. Such venation is called palmate , or palmate-reticulate .

If several large veins run parallel to each other along the plate, then venation is also called parallel . Leaves of wheat, corn, and millet have such venation.

In the leaves of plantain, lily of the valley, the veins are large and, in addition to the central one, are curved like an arc. Their venation is called arcuate.

Simple and compound leaves.

Simple leaves include leaves that have one leaf blade, like those of nettle, wheat, oak, bird cherry. Between the leaf blade and the petiole, simple leaves never have an articulation.

By shape simple whole leaves, distinguished as lobed, separate and dissected.

Complex Leaves are made up of several leaf blades called leaflets. Each leaflet of a compound leaf has its own petiole, with which it articulates with the common petiole. Such leaves are typical for strawberries, wild roses, clover and lupins.

The leaflets of a compound leaf, like the leaf blades of a simple leaf, are varied in shape, edge, and apex. Depending on the number of leaflets and the nature of their articulation with a common petiole, compound leaves are distinguished: trifoliate (strawberry, clover), palmate (lupine, chestnut), parotid (pea, rank, yellow acacia) and odd-pinnate (rose hip, mountain ash).

Variety of compound leaves