How to make ventilation in a finished house. Proper ventilation in a private house with your own hands: system, types, design and calculation. Which ventilation system to choose

A modern home cannot do without energy-efficient ventilation. Let's find out the diagrams and options for arranging ventilation in a private house with our own hands.

Current trends in construction oblige us to take care of the energy efficiency of buildings. High-quality insulation is almost impossible to achieve without ensuring a high-quality thermal cutoff between the internal microclimate and the external environment, which requires proper organization of the ventilation system.

Energy efficient ventilation

Existing solution set
Recovery units

Why is ventilation control so important?

The rapid rise in price of energy resources requires taking measures to reduce the costs of heating and air conditioning of buildings. From the point of view of construction technologies, these problems are solved relatively simply, but a number of problems arise.

The fact is that at the moment no material has been invented that ideally combines load-bearing and thermal insulation properties. Because of this, the enclosing structures of most buildings have a multilayer structure: a load-bearing base is located inside, and a heat-insulating shell is located on the outside.

This arrangement of layers is especially advantageous from the point of view of heating inertia: a more massive layer accumulates quite a lot of heat to smooth out temperature changes during periods between active operation and downtime of the heating system.

However, because of this, the steam leaking through the supporting structure under the influence of the difference in partial pressures inside and outside has a high temperature and can condense inside the insulation. Therefore, a continuous vapor barrier is installed from inside the building, forming a shell impenetrable to atmospheric moisture.

On the one hand, high-quality insulation of the indoor environment from the outdoor environment helps eliminate convection heat transfer. This is extremely important in houses with zero and positive energy balance, where the insulation of the main enclosing structures is performed to the highest standard and the main heat leaks occur through glazing and gas exchange with the street environment.

However, on the other hand, one cannot lose sight of the fact that one person excretes up to 1.5 liters of water every day through the lungs and skin, and to this must be added the moisture evaporated during cooking and wet cleaning, by indoor plants and pets. As relative humidity rises, the temperature at which dew forms also rises, which can cause condensation to form on windows even if there is no frost outside.

The other side of the issue is the suitability of the room atmosphere for breathing. The normal proportion of carbon dioxide in the air is 0.025%, which corresponds to 250–300 PPM (parts per million). A concentration of 1400 PPM is considered to be limiting and dangerous to human health, but raising the CO2 concentration to 500–600 PPM causes significant discomfort: painful sensations appear in the respiratory organs, and it is simply impossible to get a good night’s sleep at night.

Using simple calculations, it can be established that in normal condition, a house with an internal volume of 300 m3 contains only 75 liters of carbon dioxide. That is, even one person will be able to increase concentration to an uncomfortable level within 6–8 hours, and not in a single room, but throughout the entire house!

Existing solution set

Regulation of the room atmosphere is carried out through limited air exchange with the outdoor environment. When installing a ventilation system, you need to look for a compromise between the effective removal of excess moisture with carbon dioxide and saving heated room air. For these purposes, three system options can be used:

Breezers are point ventilation points installed zonally on external walls. These ventilation devices are controlled electronically and can operate in several modes, including heating the supply air.

Natural exhaust ventilation - one or more channels in the central part of the building, most of which are direct acceleration sections without horizontal branches. Due to natural vacuum, draft is created, due to which air is removed through the ventilation duct.

Air enters the house through unsealed connections, for example, gaps in window frames. If the house is carefully sealed, air enters through the window sashes in contour ventilation mode.

Forced supply and exhaust ventilation uses air pumps to move air. The pressure difference they create allows not only to distribute the supply of fresh air over the area of the house through channels, but also to organize its intake from one point. With such a device, the user knows exactly the actual volume of air exchange and has full control over the operation of the system.

From the point of view of convenience and efficiency, forced-type ventilation systems that have an acceleration section are considered optimal, which allows them to operate with limited performance in the absence of power supply.

But for the design and proper functioning of such systems, careful research work must be carried out, during which the air flow organization scheme is determined, as well as the economic justification, because controlled ventilation must first of all meet energy efficiency requirements.

Differences between zonal and general house ventilation

Breezer and duct ventilation are comparable in functionality. Systems of both types allow you to regulate the intensity of air exchange, can operate on daily and weekly schedules, provide filtration, recirculation to ensure forced convection, heating and heat recovery from the exhaust flow.

The most important differences between these types of systems lie in the nuances of installation and ergonomics. Breathers can be installed at any stage of construction and even after finishing work is completed. They have a hidden connection system and a fairly low noise level, comparable to household air conditioners.

At the same time, breathers belong to the category of “smart” household appliances: they can be controlled from mobile devices and integrated into a common house network. This makes it possible to implement their alternating operating mode: half of the breathers provide inflow, half operate in exhaust mode, which eliminates the problem of excessive vacuum and achieves high efficiency.

For all its advantages, breeze ventilation cannot be considered a panacea. The restriction to installation exclusively on external walls almost always leads to the formation of blind spots, especially in large and multi-story buildings. Coordinating the operation of more than 4–5 breathers is quite difficult, and in the absence of an internal sealed environment, it is almost impossible.

The organization of ventilation in large houses is mainly carried out according to a centralized principle: a single unit of air pumps, supply and exhaust ducts, as well as a distribution duct system.

There are few obvious advantages of a centralized system, the most obvious of which is the reduction in the cost of organizing additional air intake or air supply points, while the placement of these points is practically unlimited. Another plus is low maintenance costs and reduced energy consumption, which is especially important in the long term.

However, ventilation ducts are the largest type of intra-house communications. To organize a channel system, a significant raising of the rough ceilings or the use of special technologies for the construction of partitions and ceilings is required. Plus, the calculation of a centralized system is more difficult to perform; errors are fraught with the appearance of drafts and channel noise.

Nevertheless, all these disadvantages are offset by the main highlight of supply and exhaust ventilation - the ability to fully recover heat from the exhaust air.

Recovery units

The essence of recovery is extremely simple: the exhaust and supply flows are passed through channels that have a common partition made of heat-conducting material with the largest possible contact area. At the same time, by equalizing the temperatures between the two flows, the share of heat loss through ventilation is reduced and fresh air is heated to a comfortable temperature. To implement this operating principle, a massive heat exchanger with complexly shaped channels is required, so recuperation in breathers does not work as efficiently.

The use of recovery in the northern regions of Europe has become firmly established in the practice of civil housing construction; there has long been no doubt about the profitability of these installations. Three types of recuperators have been developed for home use:

Heat exchangers are the simplest recuperators, consisting of two chambers with adjacent walls with fins like radiators. They can be easily integrated into small ventilation systems, but are not equipped with air pumps, due to which they remain a fairly budget solution.

In addition to fans and a heat exchanger, the recovery and ventilation unit also has a control unit that allows you to monitor operating parameters and make fairly fine adjustments to operating modes. Equipped with condensate removal systems and air filters, they can be used as a single solution for organizing a central ventilation unit.

Recuperators with a secondary circuit are essentially heat pumps, in which the intensity of heat transfer significantly increases due to the low temperature delta. They allow you not only to equalize the temperature between the two channels, but also to additionally heat the supply air, cooling the exhaust air more than usual. Like devices of the previous type, they represent a single ready-made solution, but are more expensive, although they are guaranteed to pay for themselves in regions with cold climates.

Air exchange calculation and system configuration

Like many other components of individual construction, the organization of ventilation systems in private houses is not subject to strict government regulations.

However, you can rely on air exchange standards for apartment buildings, according to which the minimum supply of fresh air for each resident is at least 60 m3/h with a nominal total air exchange rate in residential premises of 0.35 of their total volume per hour.

Also, SNiP 41–01–2003 establishes the need to increase the intensity of operation of exhaust systems in non-residential premises: kitchens, bathrooms, laundries and storerooms - from 50 to 120 m3/h, depending on the purpose.

This data is often sufficient to determine the performance of the breather ventilation complex. The calculation of the central supply and exhaust system is carried out according to a more complex scheme. For example, it is necessary to ensure sufficient throughput of ventilation ducts and intake grilles to avoid the formation of noise, and also to choose the right anemostats to maintain normal air flow speed in each individual room.

For buildings with more than two above-ground floors, it is also necessary to provide a fire emergency mode, in which the supply of supply air is stopped and smoke is removed from the main escape routes.

The placement of air supply and intake points in a private house follows a fairly simple scheme. For each living room, a supply channel with the required throughput is installed, while the number of inflow points is determined by the permissible dimensions and throughput of the anemostats.

There can be only one air intake point in rooms up to 50 m2; it is placed near the floor in a place diametrically opposite to the inflow. Channel branches for each room are included in a single main line running along the ceiling of the interior corridor and a common technical riser to the room where the central ventilation unit is located and there is a possibility of connecting to external channels.

Only exhaust ducts are installed in technical rooms; this is done in order to prevent the penetration of unpleasant odors into the living area. In general, almost all ventilation systems in private houses have excessive exhaust system capacity - 20–30% higher than the inflow capacity.

When choosing the central unit of the ventilation system, you can start from the total area of the building: manufacturers provide a sufficient power reserve, and the nominal performance is determined automatically based on the readings of humidity sensors, gas analyzers and a daily-weekly timer. You also need to remember that technical ventilation (clothes dryers, kitchen hoods) is organized separately from the general ventilation, although some central units have additional outlets for connecting technical channels.published

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The secret dream of many of our compatriots is a beautiful country house. Professionals know that at the design stage it is necessary to provide for every little detail, especially communication solutions for the future building. And few people know how to make ventilation in a private house in such a way that it is comfortable to live in at any time of the year.

A well-organized system for the influx and removal of air masses in a living space can provide:

additional protection of premises from fungal and mold spores, dampness;
circulation of oxygen in each room;
comfortable conditions for work and relaxation at home.

Show all

Which rooms require ventilation?

Without access to clean air, the human body is unable to function normally. In a residential building, it is necessary to ensure the flow of oxygen primarily in the nursery, bedroom and living room. Don't neglect the kitchen and bathroom. These small rooms often contain a high concentration of humidity, as well as characteristic odors (most of them not very pleasant), which require release to the external environment.

note! A properly implemented ventilation device in a private home will eliminate the likelihood of dirt, accumulation of dust, condensation, stuffiness, and will also prevent mold and harmful microorganisms from spreading throughout the home..

Features of the implementation of the air exchange system

Traditionally, experts distinguish two types of implementation of air exchange systems in residential buildings:

natural;
mechanical (forced);
mixed (the first type is supplemented with a forced exhaust device).

From the technical side of the issue, home ventilation systems are classified into the following categories:

functional purpose;
method of moving air masses (ducted, ductless);
device that moves air.

But how not to make a mistake in choosing? What kind of cottage ventilation provides comfortable conditions for those who live in it? Note that each option has both obvious “pros” and obvious “cons”. To better understand the problems of the issue, we should dwell on them in more detail.

Natural ventilation of a residential building is determined by the difference in pressure inside and outside the room. The entire process is based on physical laws and does not require human intervention. Its essence is as follows:

1. Since the air temperature indoors is higher than outside, the air becomes light. Due to this, it moves through the ventilation duct to the street.
2. A partially rarefied mass is formed inside the room, facilitating the influx of fresh oxygen through small openings located in the structure of the object.
3. The received masses are heavier in structure. They are located in the lower part of the premises, which is why floor ventilation in a private house is so important and is an integral part of the air exchange system.

note! As the temperature rises, the exchange through the wall occurs faster, especially if it is supplemented by wind.

Modern residential buildings are practically devoid of cracks and small holes, so natural ones, as a rule, do not work in a private house. Inflow is possible exclusively through small valves built into walls and windows.

System advantages:

No emergency situations. Structural simplicity eliminates the slightest breakdowns or malfunctions.
Economical. Ventilation in a country house is carried out automatically; additional equipment (and with it financial costs) is not required.
Flexibility. The device can be easily complemented with air conditioning and filtration solutions.
Silence.

Natural ventilation in a private house

The natural ventilation system of a private house is not able to provide a forced flow of air, which greatly increases the risk of the formation of fungi, mold, and unpleasant odors. Such “neighbors” not only destroy the building, but also harm people’s health. It is not surprising that in the 21st century they are practically not used. Forced ventilation of the cottage is much more effective.

Forced ventilation system

Photo of forced ventilation

A mechanical system through which air masses are set in motion artificially - through injection devices (compressors, pumps, fans). Such ventilation in a cottage is much preferable. Forced air exchange has the following advantages:

1. Oxygen can be pre-humidified and heated, thereby creating a comfortable environment.
2. The ventilation of a country house is autonomous and does not depend in any way on the environment.

As for the shortcomings, they are obvious:

To organize such a system, additional equipment is required, implementation at the design stage, and electricity costs;
regular maintenance during operation.

Mechanical ventilation in a private house can be implemented using several methods. Experts distinguish the following types:

exhaust - “old” air is removed from the room using appropriate mechanical solutions;
supply air - a private house is saturated with air from the street forcibly;
supply and exhaust - supply and removal of air masses is carried out mechanically.

Ventilation of a private house. Forced ventilation (general overview).

If we are talking about a fairly large brick house or cottage, it is advisable to choose a mixed type option. Its main advantage is the excellent combination of forced and natural systems.

Proper organization of ventilation in suburban housing

So, how to properly make ventilation in a house and is it possible to carry out all the activities yourself? Proper organization of the air exchange process will improve the microclimate in the living space, as well as maintain the integrity of all structures. Regardless of the room, do-it-yourself ventilation installation in a private house is carried out in several stages:

determine the volume of clean air required to ensure compliance with accepted sanitary standards;
calculate the diameter and cross-sectional size for the air duct system - this value will determine the atmosphere in the living space;
choose the optimal ventilation scheme in a private house (carefully weighing all the advantages and disadvantages of each of them);
prepare a plan diagram for air channels (a competent approach will ensure effective operation);
determine where ventilation will be installed in a private house;
the next step is to install zones for the influx and removal of air masses;
build the system itself for multi-apartment living space.

Deciding on the optimal system

Photo of a typical project

Professionals emphasize that in a private home it is customary to start at the stage of preparing documentation for future housing. A qualitative criterion for any modern project is the presence of all communications necessary for a comfortable life for people. And in this context, the presence of fresh air is an important component of harmonizing the surrounding space.

note! Not only the ventilation itself in the house is important, but also the speed of movement of the oxygen itself.

Many cottage owners do not perform any preliminary calculations, but equip their homes with powerful mechanical systems. In this case, fans can forcefully cool the interior space. Experts emphasize that exhaust hood in a private home should be natural if there is no need for additional air exchange. Due to its natural nature, it guarantees a natural humidity regime for everyone within the living space.

Proper ventilation in a private house is created with your own hands based on a given norm of volumetric air velocity. If we are talking about a mechanical solution, the corresponding value can vary from 3 to 5 m 3 /hour. The natural system provides a run of up to 1 m 3 /hour. The difficulty is that if the housing has basements, then a compulsory system cannot be avoided.

note ! To pass 300 m 3 /hour of fresh air, you will need a channel with dimensions of 250x400 mm, which corresponds to the standard d 350 mm. However, if you equip a mechanical system, you can stop at a channel of 160x200 mm or d 200 mm.

The video below provides information on how the ventilation system in a country house works:

Ventilation in a private house: calculated data

Ventilation of a private house is based on careful calculations. The determining factors for this approach are:

object area;
number of permanent residents;
volume of air in each room.

Advice! Professionals strongly recommend taking into account all household appliances and technical equipment operating in living rooms, since they actively absorb clean air.

Installation of ventilation in a cottage is possible only if all the listed factors are taken into account. For proper calculations, you should use special tabular data and diagrams. The easiest way to equip a hood in a private house with your own hands is to carry out calculations by taking into account the area of a specific object.

This method is most often used for residential properties. In accordance with the standards for such premises, each “square” must have at least 3 m 3 /hour of clean air, and this does not take into account people. To calculate this value, it is necessary to calculate the air norm per area of the object.

Example ! How to make a hood in a private house with an area of 90 square meters? The air exchange rate value is set using the following formula: 90x3 = 270 m 3 /hour. This will be enough for living space.

Ventilation duct and its cross-section

Having calculated the optimal level of oxygen exchange, they select the best ventilation scheme in a private house to implement with their own hands, and count the ventilation ducts. Regardless of where such a system is planned to be installed, in the underground or in the ceiling area, there are only 2 types of air ducts with a rigid structure - round and rectangular.

Ensure an average air exchange rate of 5 m/s, if we talk about branches - no more than 3 m/s. In a natural system, the indicated value does not exceed 1 m/s.

You can read about the pros and cons of plastic pipes for ventilation in the article: Plastic pipes for ventilation

To organize effective ventilation in a private house with your own hands, you need to decide on the optimal cross-section of the channel. To do this, use a special diagram that takes into account the flow of air masses and the speed of their passage. Before making ventilation in the house or carrying out installation activities, please note that the standard value of air exchange is 360 m 3 / hour for forced-type systems. Therefore, the optimal value for air ducts will be d200 mm or 160 x 200 mm.

Rectangular plastic air ducts in the video below

Ventilation in the house, plastic air ducts - installation and installation

When thinking about how to ventilate a house, many of our compatriots forget that their homes have metal-plastic windows, whose design is absolutely airtight. In this case, care should be taken to ensure that the frame of metal-plastic solutions contains supply valves, through which air masses flow into the interior space.

note! If there is no hole in the windows, you can make one in the wall. We are talking about a standard pipe having a round shape, which is placed in the hole made. On both sides it is covered with protective metal grilles with a small cross-section.

Ventilation of the basement of a private house is carried out in a similar way. It is enough to follow simple recommendations and creating a favorable microclimate within the living space will not be difficult. In such a room, every person will feel as comfortable as possible.

Ensuring the most comfortable microclimate in your own home is one of the key, and, frankly speaking, the most difficult and responsible tasks facing the owner. No amount of beauty of the facade, “rich” appearance of the roof, well-groomed site, luxury of interior decoration will compensate for the fact that the rooms will feel obvious discomfort for the residents. Therefore, the issues of reliable thermal insulation of a building, a properly planned and high-quality heating system, and effective ventilation are so important.

But here’s a strange thing: no one forgets about the heating system, but for some reason it often remains “in the background” or is even completely overlooked. Some stable stereotype comes into play - “it will somehow ventilate on its own, that’s not the main thing...” Believe me, it will never ventilate on its own, and the lack of normal air exchange between the street and the internal circulation spaces is fraught with extremely dangerous consequences. Moreover, this concerns both the health of residents and the durability of the building itself.

This publication aims to consider how you can organize ventilation in your “possessions” on your own. We will not be talking about complex modern systems that require professional calculations and qualified installation, which will necessarily require very significant costs. The emphasis will be on devices that any owner can install. So, the topic of consideration is supply ventilation in a private house.

A few words about the need and importance of effective ventilation in the house

How is it that ventilation problems have worsened recently? Did people really not care about getting fresh air into their homes before?

Of course, they were concerned, and for a long time, during the construction of housing, certain channels for the circulation of air flows were provided. But the construction technology itself implied the use of materials and building elements through which natural ventilation occurred without any problems. Leaks in wooden window frames and doors “played into the hands” of such involuntary ventilation of the premises. The walls were erected from materials that also did not become a completely insurmountable barrier to air exchange. In addition, in private houses there were practically no so-called “conveniences” - latrines were mainly located on the streets, hygiene procedures were taken in separately built ones, and stoves were used for cooking, the chimneys of which are themselves powerful ventilation ducts.

However, modern houses are completely different. The desire to minimize heat loss leads to the fact that buildings are “dressed” in a layer of thermal insulation that does not allow air to pass through the building structures. Wooden frames and door blocks have been replaced by modern systems that make rooms practically airtight. Few people now imagine the comfort of living without a set of communal “conveniences” - under the same roof with living quarters there are bathrooms and showers, toilets and saunas, kitchens and home laundries. Human life is filled with a variety of electrical appliances. And in such conditions, it is simply impossible to do without thoughtful ventilation.

Let's take a closer look at why ventilation is so important.

The first reason is completely obvious. A person needs to breathe freely, that is, the air must be saturated with oxygen to the required extent. During the process of breathing, oxygen is gradually replaced by carbon dioxide, and if there is no necessary replenishment of fresh air, the concentration of this gas increases, the atmosphere becomes “heavy”, suffocating, which causes severe discomfort, fatigue, headaches and other negative consequences. This is especially acute for people with chronic diseases of the respiratory system and cardiovascular system, with a tendency to allergic reactions.

Pets and even indoor plants need oxygen equally.

(Many people believe that plants only release oxygen, making the air healthier. This is true, but only in the light, during the process of photosynthesis. In the dark or in low light conditions, plants also actively “breathe”, absorbing oxygen, releasing carbon dioxide and water vapor. It is not without reason that in rooms abundantly filled with potted house flowers, a heavy, stuffy and humid atmosphere is often felt in the morning. Therefore, it is not particularly recommended to arrange large flower beds in bedrooms and children's rooms).

Whether we like it or not, human life is always accompanied by the release of certain odors, many of which are difficult to classify as pleasant. If you “mothball” a room without providing a constant flow of fresh air, the atmosphere will soon become very far from comfortable. Pets also contribute to this “piggy bank”, without which they usually cannot live in private homes.

Add to this the perfumes used, household chemicals, perhaps the smoking of the owners - and the urgent need for effective ventilation becomes clear just because of this.

A special room is the kitchen. Cooking means elevated temperatures, food odors (not always pleasant, by the way, until they are ready), and traditionally a high concentration of water vapor and evaporation, which, if there is no drainage, can settle on the surface as a greasy coating. Plus, if gas appliances are installed in the kitchen (and this is most often the case), then a constant flow of fresh air and removal of combustion gases becomes simply vital.

Even at the stage of designing a house, you need to think about fresh air in the premises. Moreover, it may be that self-designed ventilation will work no worse than professionally designed one. Perhaps the solution will not be so elegant - the main thing is that it is workable.

Definition and severity of the problem

Ventilation refers to the specially organized movement of air masses. It is necessary to create comfortable and healthy living conditions for humans. In general, the system is very difficult to calculate. There are simply no standard solutions that suit everyone or at least some group of users. Each project is individual. Even the location of one grille or fan plays a role. A lot depends on the position of the house relative to the wind rose and many other little things. For self-designed ventilation to work well, you need to seriously understand.

Ventilation is an organized exchange of air masses, during which exhaust air is replaced with fresh air

So you understand how serious this is

According to sanitary standards, one person at rest processes about 30 cubic meters of air per hour. If the air is not renewed, oxygen becomes less and less, carbon dioxide and other waste products become more and more. As the amount of oxygen decreases, your health worsens. Prolonged lack of oxygen provokes the development of diseases.

A few numbers, physiologists, reflecting the influence of the level of carbon dioxide CO2 on the human condition:

Physiologists consider the carbon dioxide content in the air at 1400 ppm to be the lowest point for relatively normal human functioning. All indicators with a large amount of carbon dioxide are already beyond the bounds.

A good example

To assess the severity of the situation without ventilation, we present a graph of CO2 levels. It was filmed as an experiment. To assess how necessary ventilation is in a modern house/apartment with plastic windows and thermal insulation measures taken.

Experimental conditions. Bedroom 13 square meters (37 cubic meters), one person and one medium-sized dog. The house has exhaust ventilation, a riser in the kitchen and in the boiler room. An exhaust fan is installed in the boiler room, which runs on a timer half the night and half the day. There is no air supply, fresh air is available through windows that have ventilation and micro-ventilation functions.

Information to explain the graph:

Point 1. From 20 o'clock - work at the computer, doors slightly open, window closed.
Point 2. The window was opened, the doors were slightly open, everyone left the room.
Between 1-2 they returned to the room, closed the window, then opened it. All this can be tracked by fluctuations in CO2 levels.
Point 3. At 3:35 the doors and windows are closed, the man and the dog are sleeping.
Point 4. 9-20 am, the man woke up. The CO2 level is 2600 ppm, which is significantly below the extreme norm. The window was opened, and the carbon dioxide level returned to normal in less than an hour (Point 5).

As you can see from the graph, most of the night passes with very high concentrations of carbon dioxide. This may be the cause of fatigue and poor health in the morning. In general, everything is clear. If you wish, you can conduct a similar experiment yourself. All you need is a weather station with the ability to measure carbon dioxide levels (with memory). Looking at the results of the experiment, the importance of the ventilation system is difficult to overestimate. Let's figure out how it works.

The principle of operation of ventilation of a house and apartment

All ventilation systems are divided into two types - with natural air movement and with forced one.

Air always moves from a zone of higher pressure to a zone of lower pressure. This property is used in natural ventilation systems. The higher pressure area is usually located in the apartment/house. If there are ventilation ducts/openings, air from the premises should tend to flow outside. But a new one must take the place of the “departed” one, otherwise the movement will stop. That is why for the normal operation of the ventilation system, both an outflow of exhaust air and an influx of fresh air are necessary. And this is worth taking care of. Only then will ventilation - whether made/developed by yourself or not - work effectively.

Keep in mind that “breathing” walls have nothing to do with air exchange. At best, they help regulate humidity. But only. Likewise, a regular air conditioner does not add oxygen. It only maintains the specified parameters of the existing air. It only removes excess moisture and has nothing to do with air exchange. Air inflow must be ensured in the same way as outflow, using windows (not the most effective way) or special devices.

Inflow problems

It would seem that there is nothing simpler - make a hole in the wall - here you have an influx of oxygen. This may be true somewhere, but not in our climate, when most of the year the temperature outside is far from comfortable. What's wrong? A number of unpleasant moments:

As you can see, a “simple” hole in the wall becomes a very complex device. Moreover, little from this list can be neglected. Existence will be too uncomfortable.

Exhaust ventilation

Exhaust ventilation in an apartment building is a large pipe that runs through all floors and goes out to the roof. All apartments “in the riser” are connected to it. Under normal conditions, due to the difference in pressure in the apartment and on the roof, a “draft” is formed, which draws air from the premises (it also works when there is an inflow).

This is how you can organize exhaust ventilation in a house or apartment. You just need to take into account that the channel must “pull” the entire required volume of air

In apartment buildings, risers are usually located in the kitchen and/or bathroom. All other rooms are ventilated through these hoods. For normal air exchange in the bathroom and kitchen doors, it is necessary to provide ventilation gaps (under the door or make flow holes in the wall) or install grilles.

In a private house, everything is organized in approximately the same way: a main ventilation duct is installed in the kitchen or bathroom, which is led to the roof. There is no point in finishing it in the attic. Even if the attic is cold and ventilated. When there is a difference in temperature and high humidity in the removed air, a large amount of condensation is formed. Even with good ventilation in the attic, it does not have time to escape, the ceiling gets wet, and the walls become damp. In general, this is a bad idea.

Air duct material

A few words about the material from which the exhaust ventilation duct in a private house is made. Most often, galvanized pipes are used, and they are of round cross-section. Their resistance to air flow is minimal. They take second place in popularity. There are more problems with them - they accumulate static, which contributes to the accumulation of dust, and are less resistant to fire. The advantages include simpler installation, the presence of ready-made shaped elements, with the help of which it is easy to create any system. In the case of these materials, the choice is yours - use what you like best.

What you shouldn’t do is remove the exhaust duct from the brick. Firstly, it is expensive (you also need a foundation for it), and secondly, it is the most problematic to use, since it has uneven walls, which contributes to the accumulation of dust. Condensation accumulates in brick walls that are not covered with a metal sleeve, causing the brick to quickly collapse. In general, brick exhaust ducts are a thing of the past.

Additional devices

What else may be needed in an exhaust system are check valves. They prevent the air from moving in the opposite direction, which occurs when the draft is overturned.” When the pressure in the apartment/house becomes lower than outside. Also, check valves prevent the spread of odors from the kitchen/toilet to other rooms connected to the duct.

Check valves - a simple device

In general, the design of the exhaust system is simpler. But only if the cross-section of the ventilation duct is correctly calculated, the route is correctly drawn up and installation is carried out correctly.

Natural or forced

There are two types of ventilation - natural and forced. What's better? It's difficult to say for sure. Everyone decides for themselves, taking into account all the advantages and disadvantages of both types.

Natural ventilation in a house works due to the difference in pressure indoors and outdoors (due to the existence of that very “natural draft”). Its advantages are noiselessness and independence from electricity. Disadvantages - low productivity due to which large cross-section pipes are required, inability to control/regulate the intensity of work, dependence on the state of the external environment. In summer, natural ventilation often does not work, and sometimes it works in the opposite direction. This is when hot air is “pulled” into the room through the exhaust ventilation duct.

Forced ventilation in a private house - install fans of a suitable type

In forced ventilation, air movement is provided by fans. It can be adjustable and works in any weather, but only if there is electricity and working fans. And this is a minus. Even two. The first is energy dependence, the second is the noise that fans make during operation. Therefore, many people prefer to use plastic air ducts in forced ventilation systems. Precisely because they are “quiet”.

Ventilation schemes for private houses and apartments

The simplest option is implemented in small houses and apartments. Supply openings are located in living rooms, hoods - in the kitchen and bathroom. The air entering the premises penetrates through the cracks under the doors into the kitchen and bathroom, where it is exhausted. This scheme works for an area of no more than 100 square meters.

When the supply ventilation is separate devices in each room, the exhaust is through the kitchen or bathroom

In houses with a total area of more than one hundred and fifty square meters, two separate systems are organized - supply and exhaust. Each of them has its own air duct system. With this arrangement, each room has exhaust and supply openings in each room. In this case, adjusting the intensity of air inflow and outflow is possible in each room - you can adjust the atmosphere to the requirements of its inhabitants.

With a centralized supply ventilation system, it is easier to prepare the air taken from the street - you can create a unified cleaning and heating system. The prepared air can now be distributed throughout the premises. In this case, each room has two ventilation openings - one supply, one exhaust. They are located in opposite corners and covered with grilles or diffusers.

Supply and exhaust ventilation in a private house can be organized in this way: the supply is decentralized, the exhaust is centralized

Even with a large area of the house, the supply ventilation system can be made decentralized, as in the first scheme. With the correct selection of equipment, it will work no less efficiently. The question is which will be more economically profitable, since the problem of air preparation for each supply channel will have to be solved. And the equipment is not cheap at all.

DIY ventilation: action plan

To design a ventilation system yourself, you will have to perform a number of actions. It's easier if the sequence is known.

Preparatory work

Collecting information and basic calculations - this is where the independent creation of a ventilation project begins.

Preliminary data is ready. Take some time to think about where and what devices should be located.

Parameter calculations and detailing

When all the issues regarding the scheme have been resolved, it has taken its final form, we proceed to detailing. First, there are also calculations, then you have to look for the components of the system, decide which company to use the equipment and reduce the budget.

Installation and configuration

“All that remains” is to find, buy, install. Little has been written, but it will take a lot of effort, time, and nerves to implement this point. Only after this can we say that the DIY ventilation is completely ready.

But that’s not all. Self-made ventilation must be started and adjusted. This is also not the easiest process to achieve coordinated operation of the system as a whole. Then, during operation, reconfiguration has to be done frequently. When the season changes, the number of residents changes, weather conditions change. In general, adjusting the ventilation system is another responsibility of the home owner.

By the way, we advise you to think about it. Do-it-yourself ventilation (meaning installation) will cost less, but it requires more knowledge and time. Knowledge can be gained, but if there is a lack of time, you will have to look for and hire performers, then accept their work.

Types of ventilation systems

At the moment, only two main types of such structures are used in country houses:

In this case, only the outlet riser is installed. The flow of air is carried out through vents, cracks in the windows, or specially made holes behind the heating radiators. The disadvantage of such systems is considered primarily to be very low efficiency. In addition, in summer this design practically does not work at all due to the lack of temperature difference between the outside and inside the house.
In this case, the contaminated air is removed using special fans. A supply air duct is also installed, supplying air from the street.

Kitchen hoods are usually attached to an existing forced ventilation system. In its absence, the output is made either to a natural exhaust shaft, or directly to the street.

Installation of natural ventilation

The assembly of such a system comes down mainly to installing an exhaust riser. Its upper part should protrude beyond the roof. Usually, as in city apartments, branches from it are made to the kitchen and toilet. In order to ensure the flow of fresh air into the apartment, in this case, holes with a diameter of 8-10 cm are drilled under the heating radiators. Special supply valves are inserted into them.

Ventilation in a private house, and how to properly make a ventilation system

In a suburban building, either a conventional design with air ducts and fans, or a more modern, expensive and convenient one with a recuperator can be installed. As for the complexity of installation, it is approximately the same for both systems. Only in the first case, the air is discharged directly to the street and taken from there. In the second, both flows pass through the recuperator. The latter is a device designed to take heat from the exhaust air and transfer it to the supply air. Thus, with a recuperator you can save on heating.

Types of kitchen hoods based on operating principle

Before we start figuring out how to make a hood in a private home, let's see what types of such devices are currently available. Structures designed to remove air from the stove can be divided into three main groups:

Exhaust. This is a classic type designed to remove contaminated air from the stove into a ventilation shaft or to the street.
Recirculation. Making a hood in a private house of this type means getting a fairly effective and at the same time reliable device. Such designs are essentially large air purifiers equipped with a filter system. Their main advantages are simplicity and low cost of installation. The disadvantage is the need to periodically (usually every six months) replace filters.
Combined. These hoods can both exhaust air outside and purify it.

How to choose ventilation pipes

Below we will figure out how to make a hood in the house. The hood in a private house is usually connected to the main ventilation system. Therefore, first we will find out how such structures are mounted. Pipes for such systems can have a round or square cross-section. In addition, their diameter may also differ. Both metal and plastic types of air ducts are available. The former are characterized by maximum durability, the latter by light weight and ease of installation. Of particular note are the recently introduced flexible corrugated air ducts.

Which recuperator is better?

Many owners of country houses are interested in the question of whether it is possible to do the ventilation of a private house with their own hands. Of course, it is possible, including with a recuperator. The main thing is to choose the right device, in fact. At the moment, the most popular type is plate structures. The exhaust and supply air do not directly intersect with each other. Contact occurs through plates made of plastic or aluminum foil. The advantages of such devices include, first of all, simplicity of design, reliability and maintainability. The disadvantages are the possibility of icing of the plates in winter.

Drafting

So, let's start figuring out how to properly make a forced-type ventilation system for a private house with your own hands. Of course, before starting its installation, you should draw a wiring diagram. It is best to entrust the development of the project to specialists. This is a very responsible and quite complicated matter. When performing it, you need to take into account a lot of nuances. If the design is drawn up incorrectly, ventilation will not work effectively. In addition, such a nuisance as the appearance of a smell from the toilet or kitchen in the living rooms is possible.

Recuperator installation

A device for exchanging heat between air streams is usually installed in the attic or basement. The main rule that must be observed is the evenness and absolute horizontality of the stand.

The recuperator should be installed in an easily accessible place. The fact is that the owners of the house will in any case have to clean its plates from dirt at least twice a year.

Installation of main air ducts

Holes for air exhaust and intake are pre-drilled in the walls. Next, special pipes equipped with valves are inserted into them. Then they begin to install the main (supply and exhaust) air ducts. They can be attached to walls behind plasterboard or plywood, or behind suspended ceilings. Sometimes they are also carried out in interfloor ceilings. However, the inconvenience of this method lies in the inaccessibility of the elements in case of need for repairs.

Produced using special clamps. For plastic lungs, one per whole piece will be enough. The pitch between metal clamps is usually about 1.5 meters. One end of the main pipes is connected to the pipes in the walls, the other - to the corresponding pipes of the recuperator. In the instructions supplied with this device, the manufacturer indicates exactly how the air ducts should be connected.

Routing pipes throughout the premises

Proper distribution of pipes throughout the premises is also an important answer to the question of how to install a hood in a private home. The house is made by connecting its air duct to one of the branches heading to the kitchen. Sections leading to rooms requiring ventilation will need to be connected to the main highways. They are connected through special pipes and tees. Each room must have both an exhaust duct and a supply duct. It is better to install the first one near the ceiling, the second one - on the floor or at the bottom of the wall, closer to the heating radiator. Nozzles with adapters are inserted into the holes made in the house structures, onto which the air duct pipes are attached. They are covered with decorative grilles on top.

Kitchen hood in a private house: installation instructions

This device is mounted on a wall or furniture, depending on the design. According to regulations, the distance from it to the stove must be at least 65 cm for a gas stove and at least 45 cm for an electric stove. The air duct from the hood is attached to the place of the exhaust pipe grille or shaft. If there is no ventilation in the house, a hole is made in the wall for the air duct. In the latter case, it will be necessary to ensure a flow of fresh air into the kitchen. To do this, as when installing natural ventilation, holes should be drilled under windows or behind heating radiators and supply valves should be inserted into them, which can be purchased at a hardware store.

How to choose an exhaust duct

Thus, we briefly examined the question of how to make a hood in the house. A hood in a private home will only work effectively if the air ducts are selected correctly. At the moment, only two main types of corrugations for such kitchen devices are produced - plastic and metal. The former are already cut into pieces during the production process. If the exhaust hole is located in the wall opposite to the slab, one such segment may not be enough. Joints in the air ducts of kitchen hoods are extremely undesirable. Therefore, in this case it is better to purchase a metal corrugation. If the joints cannot be avoided for any reason, they must be sealed with sealant. The corrugation is hidden under a decorative box, which can be round, rectangular or square. The joints in it should also be sealed.

How to properly attach a recirculating hood

Making a hood in a private home also means correctly mounting the device body itself. It should be installed on the wall strictly according to the markings. To do this, first draw a horizontal line with a pencil. Next, two holes are drilled on it, coinciding with the brackets on the hood body. Then dowels are driven into the holes. Canopies are attached to them and screwed with screws. The device is hung on them.

Installation of dome devices

How to make a hood in a private house using a dome structure is also not a very difficult question. As in the first case, markings are first made for this variety. Devices of this type are mounted to the wall directly on the housing. Dowels and screws are used as fixing elements. Holes are drilled in the wall for them according to the markings.

What rules must be followed during installation?

So, we found out how to make a hood in a private house. When installing it, the following points should be taken into account:

You need to plan the location of the device so that the air duct is as short as possible.
The number of elbows should be kept to a minimum.
If turns of the air duct cannot be avoided, you should try to make them not too steep.
You should purchase an air duct with a smooth inner surface in order to reduce flow resistance to a minimum.

So, we have figured out how to make exhaust hood and ventilation in a private house. As you can see, this is not a particularly difficult matter. The most important thing is to develop the right project. This will make living in the house as comfortable as possible both in summer and winter.