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Do-it-yourself electric motor: instructions for assembling a homemade mechanism. Possible modifications and the simplest models. How to make a simple electric motor in ten minutes A simple motor from a motor circuit

The presence of an engine on a boat makes life much easier for its owner. However, gasoline engines make a lot of noise and consume a lot of resources. An alternative to this type of driving force is electric motors. These are quiet units that run on cheap electricity and are slightly inferior to gasoline outboard engines in terms of travel efficiency. This version of the engine will be cheaper, especially since you can make an electric motor on a boat with your own hands.

In the name "electric motor" lies the essence of the device that it denotes. An electric motor for boats means a unit that sets in motion a swimming facility due to the movement of the blades. Its action is based on physical laws. A feature of electric motors is the resource that they consume to perform their functions.

Today, fuel-powered boat engines are common all over the world. An electric motor for a boat, unlike similar units, works by consuming electricity, not gasoline. There is a widespread opinion among some boat owners about the low efficiency of such devices. However, it is erroneous. When properly designed, the electric motor is capable of providing enough thrust to propel the craft through the water at normal speed.

In addition, a homemade engine has a number of advantages, for example:

  1. The final cost of creating such a device will be significantly lower than the market value of factory gasoline engines and electric motors.
  2. The legislation in force in the country that protects nature strictly regulates the use of electric motors for boats. These rules do not apply to homemade units.
  3. The device works without making any noise. This feature will be especially useful for fishermen, because any loud noises can frighten off a potential catch.
  4. Electricity is cheaper than fuel materials. In addition, devices equipped with internal combustion engines consume incomparably more resources than self-made electric motors.
  5. The owner of the boat has the opportunity to independently choose the power of the unit suitable for him. The basis of a homemade motor is a drill or other devices. The characteristics of the future engine depend on their power. Which device the master chooses, these will be the indicators of the electric motor.

Creating a homemade electric motor is quite simple. Just follow the instructions exactly. However, you will need certain materials and tools. There shouldn't be any problems accessing them. Most of the necessary tools are already in stock for any owner. All materials can be found in free sale at retail outlets. It is easy to find the drawings necessary for the work.

Materials and tools

When selecting equipment, you need to pay attention to two things: power and voltage. These parameters are fundamental, and the quality of the finished electric motor depends on them. The power depends on the selected drill (in this case, this tool is taken as the basis), so first of all you need to choose this equipment.

When choosing a drill, you need to focus on its power. This figure should exceed one hundred and fifty watts. It is not worth taking a tool with lesser characteristics. In this case, the finished device will not work effectively in moving water (that is, it will not work to swim with such a unit along the river). It is best to use a cordless hammer drill.

The puncher is equipped with a reverse, has several modes of operation. This circumstance is important for the motor that will move the craft, since it will allow in the future to control the speed of the electric motor.

The second important parameter is voltage. Eighteen volt batteries should not be used. They are hard to find and are expensive. The best choice would be a drill that runs on ten or twelve volts. Such a battery is relatively cheaper, and, most importantly, it is much easier to find it on sale.

After choosing the optimal equipment, you can collect materials. To create an engine, you must first acquire:

  1. An electric drill that will act as a motor.
  2. Clamps with which the drill will be attached.
  3. Reducer. You can use an element from a grinder if you plan to install the motor on the transom of the boat.
  4. Round tubes with a diameter of twenty millimeters.
  5. Profiled pipes (20 * 20 millimeters).
  6. Round metal rod. It will be used to create the motor shaft.
  7. The sheet metal from which the screws will be made.

You will also need some tools:

  • scissors for cutting metal;
  • apparatus for welding;
  • Bulgarian;
  • electric drill with a set of drills;
  • self-tapping screws with a screwdriver, if wood is used to create the motor.

After all the elements have been assembled, you can begin to create a boat electric motor with your own hands. The whole procedure consists of several stages. Work should begin with the creation of a lifting mechanism for the impeller. In order for the future device to work properly, it is recommended that you carefully follow the instructions provided below.

Creation of an electric motor

As mentioned earlier, it is necessary to start making an electric motor with your own hands from creating a lifting mechanism for the impeller. It will allow you to raise this element above the water. To create it, it is necessary to weld a metal tube to pre-prepared clamps.

On this tube, you must first attach the base (a frame that looks like a pyramid, directed by a smaller base in the direction of the water). A bed is attached to a large base, another tube is welded to the lower edge. A bearing is installed on the frame. Through it and the tube welded from below, it is necessary to pass the shaft.

A tube or wire can be used as a shaft. However, the first option is better:

  • firstly, it will be possible to attach bearings to the tube (at both ends), which will reduce the friction force;
  • secondly, it is desirable that this shaft be thin, but strong. In the case of wire, you will have to use a large diameter product.

After all the steps are completed, you can proceed to the next step. The next step is to install the gearbox and propellers.

Reducer/propeller

Gearboxes are recommended to be attached to the sides of the shaft. It is advisable to first create them yourself, focusing on the parameters of the electric motor. However, this process can take a very long time. Therefore, you can buy a device or use gearboxes installed on a grinder.

Depending on the specific engine, one or two gearboxes may be needed. When choosing a device, it is necessary to focus on one basic rule - it is desirable that the transmitting number be small. It is optimal if the gearbox is able to lower the speed by 5 times. This will ensure the normal course of the watercraft.

The lower gearbox is required for horizontal mounting of the propeller. If a gearbox is used from a tool such as a grinder, it will be enough to clamp it in a drill chuck. As a propeller, you can also use elements of other devices. If there is none, you can make a homemade screw. For this you need:

  1. Cut out a square (the length of one side is thirty centimeters).
  2. Drill a hole in its center.
  3. Make slits diagonally (the distance between the slits must be at least five centimeters).
  4. The resulting blades must be given a rounded appearance. It is important that the size of the blades is the same, otherwise third-party vibrations may occur.

You can fix the propeller on the shaft with a bolt and nut. It was for this that a hole was made in the center of the metal sheet.

Latest improvements

Next, you need to connect the gearbox to the motor, that is, to the drill. This is easy to do - just clamp the gearbox in the drill chuck, as mentioned earlier. If the base does not match the size of the drill, an additional tube must be used.

The tube must be tightly put on the shaft. So that the latter does not rotate in it, a reliable fixation is needed. It can be provided by making a through hole in the tube and shaft. Next, both elements must be fixed with a hairpin. This fixation will prevent rotational movements of the shaft.

After the device is ready, the homemade outboard electric motor must be checked. It is enough to fill the bath with water and start the electric motor in it. If the pressure is felt by hand, the engine is running normally. You can attach it to the vessel and carry out the test in the pond.

Motor control and other design options for its creation

Although the electric motor is ready, it is not yet capable of making turns. In order not to turn with the help of oars, small improvements must be made to the design. It is enough to attach a bolt to the central part of the fastening, on which then put the pipe. This will make it possible to make turns by changing the position of the base and, accordingly, the electric motor.

Another handle can be welded to the base by bringing a regulator to it, which is responsible for supplying current to the motor. It would be advisable to use a rheostat. However, in this case, you will have to slightly change the drill itself by connecting the motor located in its case to a rheostat. This will create a more functional design.

Screwdriver as a motor

There are several ways to make an electric motor. A screwdriver can be used instead of a drill. By design, it almost does not differ from a device with a drill. A distinctive feature of the product is the lower cost of its maintenance. So, one twelve-volt battery will be enough for a six-hour operation of the device. However, you will have to sacrifice the speed of movement due to less power.

Large pitch propellers can be used to make the boat move faster. In addition, as in the previous case, a screwdriver-based electric motor can be equipped with handles that make it easier to control.

trimer electric motor

Perfect for this purpose and trimer. The process of creating a motor when using this device will be greatly facilitated. The only thing that the master will need to do is shorten the length of the device and attach a screw to it. There is no need to mount the gearbox.

There is also no need to modify the control and the system responsible for powering the motor. The only difficulty that may be encountered on the way is the problem of attaching the device to the boat. Especially for inflatables. But it is also resolvable.

As an electric motor, you can use units that operate windscreen washers, or a simple electric motor. In the latter case, power supply difficulties may arise, since standard motors operate at the expense of an alternating voltage of two hundred and twenty volts. The problem is solved by installing an inverter.

Thus, the owner of the boat can create an electric motor for the boat with his own hands. You don't need any special skills for this. It is only necessary to purchase the necessary materials and prepare some tools. It is recommended to use a drill with a power of more than one hundred and fifty watts as a motor. Such an indicator will allow you to move on a boat both with standing water and along the river.
In addition to a drill, you can use a trimmer or a conventional electric motor. Another option is an electric motor based on a screwdriver. Such a device is cheaper to maintain, however, there may be problems with the speed of movement of the floating craft.

conditions.

This will require the following materials and tools:
- a medical syringe (in this homemade syringe with a volume of 20 ml is used);
- insulated copper wire with a diameter of 0.45 mm and a length of about 5 m;
- copper wire with a diameter of 2.5 mm;
- neodymium flat magnets 2 pieces;
- a board for the manufacture of a wooden base;
- hot glue gun;
- a tube of super glue;
- 9 volt krone battery.

Let's start by making the basis of our engine - an electromagnetic cylinder. Let's make its case from a medical syringe with a volume of 20 ml. Such a syringe can be purchased not only at a pharmacy, but also at service centers or stores that sell and service office equipment. Employees of such centers use syringes to refill inkjet cartridges and, as a rule, they use syringes of the required volume, namely 20 ml. We take a syringe and first of all we remove the piston, it will not be needed. Using a hacksaw, cut off part of the syringe (the mark is the division of 15 ml).



We remove the excess to the side, and we will continue to work with this blank.


Next, you need a thin copper insulated wire. In this homemade wire, a wire 5 meters long with a cross section of 0.45 mm was used.




It must be tightly wound in one direction in several layers on the cylinder resulting from the syringe.




We twist the ends of the wire with each other in this way. We fix the winding with superglue.




Then you need a thick copper wire from which we will make a crankshaft and a connecting rod.




Let's remove the insulation first.




Next, with the help of pliers, we give the wire the shape of a crankshaft.




From the rest of the wire, using pliers, we will make the next part - a connecting rod. To make it, it is necessary to bend the wire at both ends as shown below.




Then we connect both parts (connecting rod and crankshaft) together. To fix the connecting rod on the crankshaft, two pieces of insulation from the copper wire from which these parts were made are used. First you need to put on one piece of insulation, then the connecting rod and after that another piece of insulation.






Next, you need two neodymium magnets of such a diameter that they can easily move inside the cylinder.




And you will also need a part of a similar shape (it can be made, for example, from wood), which we attach with hot glue to magnets.






Then we fix the resulting part as follows:








Then you will need a wooden base and two wooden support posts. These structural details can be made from any material, the main condition is that it should not conduct electric current. But I think that this design is easiest to make from a piece of wood (in this case, boards), since wood is a very affordable material and is quite easy to process.


On the basis, we outline the future location of the cylinder and support legs. Then, with hot glue, we fix the cylinder on a wooden blank of the base.




Next, insert the crankshaft into the support racks. Then, with hot glue, we fix the racks on the base according to the markings.






After that, using small pieces of insulation, we limit the movement of the shaft in the support legs.


We install a flywheel on one side of the crankshaft. It will make the engine run smoother.


Then you need two copper wire contacts, which must be fixed to the base with a self-tapping screw with a wide washer.








Then we connect the cylinder winding to the contacts. Before connecting, the ends of the winding must be cleaned of insulation (lacquer).

Hello comrades, friends and ill-wishers! A small whale for building (additional assembly) of a collector electric motor. Since this is intended for children (unspecified age), you won’t have to wind the wire, everything will be very light, but interesting for the child. Under the cut - assembly, operation and measurements.

Disclaimer right away - this constructor was sent to me for review by Banggood under item 18. That is. I didn't pay a dime for it and shipping. You will pay real money, please take this into account when forming your own opinion about the product.

So, the second designer waited for the fate of being assembled. Like it just came in a package.
The packaging is a fairly tight box, almost not damaged. It certainly weighs much more.



The box is abundantly supplied with images of the assembled product, on one of the sides there are large hieroglyphs - we decided with our daughter to consider that there is written a congratulation on the New Year

It should be noted that much less needlework is expected here than in the previous constructor. But, in fact, the instructions here are short, and absolutely Chinese in dialect,




and the images on the box are so frankly misinforming!


(look at how magnets are installed on the print on the box. Nothing embarrassing? Oh, these “full-time photographers” of the manufacturer. In addition, the installation is depicted with the collector up. As will be shown later, in this device “up and down matter”.

Note that on the BangGood website, the images (photos) are correct - the magnets are installed with different poles, the collector with brushes is at the bottom.

Inside our box is:






Two magnets in the form of a parallelepiped. Quite heavy, but not heavy duty for its size.


Frame made of plastic. “Brushes” are already fixed and there are bolt clamps for wires


Rotor with a collector on the axis.


Two wires with crimped ends for bolts.


Tin key, for wire clamp


Well, the aforementioned slurred instructions.

Well, thank God, we generally know what this is), so after a short lecture, we move on to assembling and consolidating the lesson.

I do not claim to be the best teacher of the year, so I limited myself to a story about what a magnetic field is, why it arises (natural magnets and a magnetic field around a conductor with current) and how magnetic fields can move and / or rotate things.
Most admired was the passage about "aggressive magnets" that push the rotor through magnetic fields. Of course, the simplification is great, but every day he asks to tell again about them.

Assembly does not cause any problems, but it is very embarrassing that the assembled device is shown on the box with magnets installed symmetrically (i.e. N to N) - which contradicts the instructions, the image on the site, and most importantly, the physical meaning. This is sad. Since a child, left to himself, naturally tries to assemble as shown on the box, without waiting for the theses about the poles of magnets.





Also, on the box and in the instructions, the installation is depicted upwards with a collector, and on the website the picture is vice versa.
In general, confusion.
As a result, self-assembly gave the following result:





We are trying to tighten the wire plugs with plastic clamps and are faced with the fact that the black clamp flatly refuses to twist to the state of being pressed. We do not persist, using the complete key, we clamp the wire between the frame and the clamping nut.





Now we are reworking the installation a little, at the same time explaining what was done wrong)))

Install the magnets following the instructions. We install the rotor with the collector, the axis neatly enters with its sharp ends into the grooves on the upper and lower clamping bolts. We start the collector between the "brushes" so that they are tightly pressed against the collectors with stampings.

So, everything is assembled, tightened, the axis rotates.

We take the Eneloop battery (2000mAn, the voltage at the time of connection is 1.31V) and ...
Nothing happens. We turn the rotor in different directions. Zero reaction.

Well, let's go along the extensive path - we take a lithium-ion battery with a voltage of 4.15 volts. The battery is "resembling", so we do not expect it to give out a large current, which could cause special effects.
I clamp the contacts with my fingers on the battery (yes, I agree, this forms a wrong perception of safety in the child, we will correct it) and I feel that the current is flowing ... and considerable, judging by how quickly the contacts under the fingers heat up.
They turned the rotor and “yet it spins” ©.



With bursts of sparks from under the "brushes", our motor is gaining momentum, clearly demonstrating how the current from the battery generates a magnetic field that interacts with the magnetic field of stationary magnets.
The number of turns is quite decent. We shoot with a slowdown of 1/4x in the hope of then counting the revolutions.

The child is delighted and many times asks to repeat “for an encore”, either by scrolling the motor himself, or by pressing the contacts.

Trying to start again on AA battery

Actually, already here you can see that the goal of the designer has been achieved - a little theory, a little practice with your hands and a lot of fun to consolidate the material. Now she asks me every day to "play motor with aggressive magnets."

We remove the assembled product from the child when he has played enough and carry out measurements and improvements.

Unfortunately, it has not yet been possible to achieve autostart of the motor, only with a manual push. Probably, if there were a three-pole anchor here, there would not be such a problem. And this is actually urgent, because a delicate children's finger can suffer during manual start.

The current flowing on an unstarted motor is quite large, more than an ampere (1.21A) from a lithium ion, which means that more than 3 watts goes literally into the air.
After starting, the current drops slightly and stabilizes in the region of 0.8-0.82A

Replacing the battery with a fresh protected Panasonic 3400mAn only leads to the fact that every second time the battery protection cuts off the power. The current does not increase much. (1.1A). But the speed increases (less voltage drop under load than the old Li-Ion)

Slow motion. The upper mount is slightly tightened, the beating is visible.


The number of revolutions does not exceed 40 revolutions per second.

We take grease for bearings and lubricate the conical friction pairs of the rotor axis. We stretch a little. The rotation becomes more even and stable (beats go away) and even the speed seems to increase.


But in any case, the speed is not higher than 40 rpm at a current of 0.95A

Okay, now we take the AA battery.
A couple of unsuccessful attempts and the engine starts on it. But it works weakly, uncertainly and calms down.


The current with the engine not running is 0.46A

But what if we turn our design over so that the collector is at the bottom - and lo and behold, work from AA is much more confident. Perhaps the point is less friction in this cone pair when working as a support ...

We measure the current, again in the “not running” state and in the “running” state. Again, we shoot a slow-motion video in order to approximately determine the number of revolutions.


Here it is already more or less accurate to say that on the AA element the number of revolutions is in the region of 10-12 revolutions per second.

Nevertheless, our motor strives to stop on the battery, although it eats 0.6A

We also measure the resistance of the winding. Approx 2.5ohm

The rotor was launched by hand in the manner of a spinning wheel, i.e. it is fairly balanced about the axis.
Here in this photo you can check out the quality of the winding

Since our "brushes" are just metal stampings, they scratch the collector, God forbid

weigh-ins

Rotor weight is 24 grams

The frame weighs 47 grams

To complete the picture, we weigh the magnets (36 and 37 grams)


and measure how much in static they can approximately hold metal (by weight). It doesn't really matter, but so be it. (210gr+)




The resistance of the proposed wiring was 0.2 ohm for the minus one and 0.2 ohm for the plus one.



In general, I noticed that on the muse, commentators take a special orgastic delight in measuring everything that can be measured, even if it is not important for the product, or its cost does not justify such detail.
I thought about visiting the alma mater laboratory and examining the magnetic fields generated by the magnets and the motor assembly, conducting a study of the materials from which the frame is made (if there are any harmful impurities in the plastic), to clarify whether oxygen-free copper was used for windings. In addition, I was interested in the magnitude of the luminous flux generated by sparks from brushes crawling along the collector (naturally in boxing). There were also interesting ideas for measuring sound pressure. One of my friends seriously argued that I should investigate how swallowing a magnet would affect the digestive tract (“you have to,” he shouted, “what if one of your readers buys this, but oversights and the child swallows the magnet!”), but on sound reflection, I refused such a test on myself. Therefore, do not blame me that there is no analysis of the cardiogram of my heart at the moment the engine is started, when I press the contacts with my finger (and what vibrations there should be ... from delight ...).

Summing up, I want to note the following:
1) The instruction is meaningless and defective. There are no details or warnings about applicable power supplies. Moreover, the pictures on the box (incorrect) directly contrast with the pictures in the instructions.
2) The kit is not completely complete, there is no power supply. If people do not have flashlight (lithium ion/polymer reserves), then it is likely that there will be problems when starting from an AA battery, or the start will not be spectacular (faded). And someone out of a special mind can decide to connect a torn USB wire to the input from a mains power source or even connect 220 volts. There are no warning labels on the box or in the instructions in understandable English.
3) Cant with negative clamp.
4) Hoarding at the third pole at anchor. It would be better for a buck more expensive, but with a normal autostart, and not the risk of getting a finger or pinching a finger between the rotor and the magnet
5) In general, inexplicable hoarding on brushes. The surface of the collector wears out very quickly from such operation, brushes cost a penny. You will have to look for something suitable, otherwise the toy will also quickly become disposable.

Now about the pros, and remember that I got it for free, and you will pay something around 500 rubles (!)

1) The toy-constructor is quite dimensional and visual. Perhaps part of the price went into large magnets and copper at anchor)))
2) If you have a 4.2 volt battery, you can start it easily, as well as assemble it. There will be no fail (unless, of course, install the magnets according to the instructions, and not as shown on the box).
3) You can build a whole lecture around it, both in depth for preschoolers and middle-aged schoolchildren (with whom we already go into details regarding windings, the number of poles at the anchor, reducing friction in cone pairs, etc.)
4) in a 4-year-old child, it aroused interest, joy, and a desire to repeat and repeat experiments.

I note that you can build something similar yourself by tearing up some unnecessary small electric motor. So this waste is not an indispensable auxiliary means.
However, if BangGood discounts this model, or you get some points there or whatever they have, you can make your life easier by ordering and assembling this model, as it is still visual.

I hope that after the review you will be able to form your own opinion whether you need such a training constructor for such money.

Thanks to all.

The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review is published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.

I plan to buy +16 Add to favorites Liked the review +37 +61

To understand how to make an electric motor with your own hands, you need to remember how it works and how it works.

( ArticleToC: enabled=yes )

If you follow the instructions step by step, it is not so difficult to make an electric motor yourself. The motor will serve for your projects.

The cost of manufacturing an electric motor will be minimal, since you can make an electric motor with your own hands from improvised means.

First of all, you need to stock up on the necessary materials:

  • bolts;
  • a bicycle spoke;
  • nuts;
  • electrical tape;
  • copper wire;
  • a metal plate;
  • super and hot glue;
  • plywood;
  • washers.

You can not do without such tools:

  • electric drills;
  • stationery knife;
  • pliers;
  • grinding machine;
  • hammer;
  • scissors;
  • soldering iron;
  • tweezers;
  • sewed.

Manufacturing process

You need to start work on making an electric motor with your own hands by making five plates, in which you later need to drill a hole in the center with an electric drill and put it on the axle - a bicycle spoke.

Pressing the plates tightly against each other, fix their ends with electrical tape, cutting off the excess with a clerical knife. If the axles are uneven, they need to be sharpened.

When an electric current passes through the coil, the latter creates a magnetic field around itself, which does not differ from the field of an ordinary magnet, but disappears when the current is turned off. This property can be used to attract and release metal objects by turning the current on and off.

As an experiment, you can make a circuit consisting of a button and an electromagnet, which this button will help turn on and off.

The circuit is powered by a 12V computer power supply. If the axis with the plates is installed next to the electromagnet and the current is turned on, then they will be attracted and one of the sides will turn towards the electromagnet.

If the current is first turned on, and turned off at the moment when the plates came as close as possible to the electromagnet, then they will fly through it by inertia, having made a revolution.

If the moment is guessed constantly, and the current is turned on, they will rotate. In order to do this at the right time, a current breaker is needed.

Making a current interrupter

Again, you need a small plate, which you need to fix on the axis, pressing it with pliers so that the fastening is secure. How it should look, the video will help you understand:

Video: How to make an electric motor

One of the contacts is connected to a metal plate, and an axis is installed on top of it. Since the axis, plate and breaker are metal, current will flow through them. By touching the breaker contact, the circuit can be closed and opened, which will allow the electromagnet to be connected and disconnected at the right time.

The resulting do-it-yourself rotating structure is called an armature in DC motors, and a stationary electromagnet interacting with the armature is called an inductor.

The armature in AC motors is called the rotor, and the inductor is called the stator. The names are sometimes confused, but this is wrong.

Frame making

It must be done so that the design of the electric motor is not held by hand. The base material is plywood.

DIY inductor

In plywood we will make two holes for an M6 bolt 25 mm long, on which we will place the motor coils later. We screw the nuts onto the bolts and cut out three parts for connecting the bolts (supports).

The supports have two functions: they will rely on the axis of the armature of the electric motor, made by hand, the second - they will serve as a magnetic circuit that will connect the bolts. Under them you need to make holes (by eye, since this does not require special accuracy). The plates are connected together and placed from below, pressing with bolts. Putting the coil on the bolts, we get a kind of horseshoe-shaped magnet.

To fix the motor armature in a vertical position, you need to make a sheet metal frame (bracket). We drill three holes in it: one along the diameter of the axis and two on the sides for screws (for fastening).

Coil manufacturing

To make them, you will need a strip of cardboard and thin paper (see dimensions on the drawing). Having removed the bolt from the base, we wind a thick strip on it in 4-5 layers, fixing it with 2 layers of electrical tape. The strip stays tight enough. Carefully remove it to wind the wire.

After the wire is wound, we take out the paper from the inside with tweezers, cut off the extra layers so that the coil can be easily put on the bolt. We cut off the excess from the coil, taking into account the fact that there will still be cheeks on top and bottom, which are necessary so that the wire does not slip during operation of the electric motor. In the same way, we make the second coil with our own hands and proceed to the manufacture of cheeks.

How to make cheeks with your own hands?

We put thick paper on the nut, and punch a hole from above with a bolt. Make it easy. Then putting the paper on the bolt, put the washer on top and cut it out, after circling it with a pencil. It turns out it is in the form of a similar washer.

In total, you need to make 4 such parts to install on the bolt from above and below. We wind the nut on the upper cheek, placing a metal washer and fix both cheeks with hot glue. The frame, which is made by hand, is ready.

Now it remains to wind a wire (500 turns) varnished with a diameter of 0.2 mm on it. We twist the beginning and end of the wire so that it does not unwind. Having unscrewed the nut, I removed the bolt - a beautiful little coil remains.

We free the ends of the wire from varnish using a clerical knife, we tin, we install it on a bolt. Do the same with the second coil.

So that the plates and the current interrupter do not scroll on the axis, it is recommended to glue them with superglue.

Now we connect the coils in series to check the operation of the electric motor. Plus, we connect to the beginning of the winding (from the side of the bolt head). With the help of a sliding contact, we find the position in which the electric motor works as efficiently as possible.

Such contacts are called brushes in electric motors. In order not to hold the latter with your hands, you need brush holders that are glued to superglue, lubricating the points of friction of the axis with oil.

By connecting the coils in parallel, we increase the current (since the coils have resistance), therefore, the power of the electric motor will increase. That is, coils can be represented as resistances.

And when they are connected in parallel, the total resistance decreases, which means that the current increases. When connected in series, everything happens exactly the opposite.

And, since the current through the coil increases, then the magnetic field is greater, and the armature of the electric motor is more strongly attracted to the electromagnet.

Video: Electric motor in a few minutes


Who would have thought that the simplest inverter can be made without the use of transistors, microcircuits and complex circuits. I showed you last time. As it turned out, this is not the only way to build an inverter. I'll show you how you can convert electrical energy from 12V DC to 220V AC.

What will be needed?


step up transformer. Naturally, before it worked as a step down, but we will use it the other way around. Such transformers can be found in receivers, electronic watches, old tape recorders.

Assembly of the inverter

In fact, our circuit consists of only three parts connected in series to each other. This is a transformer connected to the circuit with a low-resistance winding (the high-resistance winding is the output of the inverter). Batteries - accumulators or batteries. And a switching element, in the role of which an electric motor will be used, which can be removed from broken children's toys.


Here is the motor itself. Just do not insert it into the circuit - it will not switch. We need to improve it.


To do this, we disassemble the motor.


We remove the back part, before bending the holders.


Anchor needs to be fixed. This consists in disconnecting one winding from the contacts. To do this, we cut off the wires of any one winding.


We assemble the motor.


After such refinement, the motor will not be able to fully spin, since one winding will be turned off. But if you start it by hand, then the motor has enough power to maintain rotation. And the absence of one winding will periodically break the power circuit between the batteries and the transformer, where the motor is connected in series.
We include in the chain.



We connect a multimeter to the output of the transformer. Then turn on the power. It happens that the motor itself starts, but usually not. Then we start the shaft by hand, gently twisting it.


The inverter is working! The multimeter reading jumps from zero to about 250 V. This is normal, since this is a technical inverter to power primitive devices.


We are trying to connect the charger. Everything works fine - the phone is charging.


We connect the light bulb - the lamp shines.


Of course, there is no need to talk about the quality of the converted energy, but in difficult life situations such a craft may well come in handy.
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