Many people learn basic handmade stitches in childhood, during labor lessons, or through their parents’ help in everyday life. Knowing the technique of making stitches solves small tasks for which a sewing machine is not suitable. Sew, hem, mend, sew on a button and even create a new outfit - experienced housewives know that it is difficult to do without hand stitches. This is where the mastery of sewing skills begins. However, the variety of stitches can seem daunting. Let's look at the types, names and features of the main handmade seams.

What types of stitches are there?

General classification - ordinary and decorative. The former have long been used for sewing new clothes, performing a directly practical function. The second, more complex ones, were used to trim and decorate festive outfits. Let's focus on 7 simplest seams, knowledge of which will make the life of every housewife easier.

1. “Forward with a needle,” or sweeping.

The most primitive stitch that even a child of middle school age can easily master. It is necessary when you need to quickly, in a hurry, fasten several pieces of fabric together. For example, for the first fitting of a product, creating assemblies and other decor. Straight stitches are placed from right to left. The length varies from 2 mm to several cm and depends on the goals of the seamstress. The stitches are visible on both the front and back sides.

Practical is the same as basting, but is performed on one layer of fabric. It is used for “basting”, that is, fixing the middle of the product or other nuances. Some housewives use an interlining seam to mark out stains before washing. It is important that the needles are thin and do not leave marks on the fabric or damage it. The distance between the stitches and their length are approximately the same (2-3 mm).

3. “Silk”, or copy seam.

The stitches require soft, easy-to-work double threads. They allow you to easily transfer the lines of pockets, darts and other elements that require precision. Paired cut parts are folded next to each other. In this case, the front side should be inside. Next, short running stitches are sewn, but the thread is not tightened, but connected into loops 1-1.5 cm high. At the end, the identical parts are moved apart and the loops are cut. Nowadays, snares are becoming an increasingly outdated method of sewing.

4. Stitch seam.

Convenient for joining materials of different thicknesses or textures. It comes in several variations: flat-ironed, flat-ironed, on the edge. The type depends on how to iron the product after sewing. First, the parts are connected with their front sides or along contour lines. Such a seam is considered strong enough and reliable for constant wear. It requires some experience and serves as an alternative to machine sewing.

5. Marking seam.

The length of the spaces between the stitches distinguishes this seam from a ground seam. The needle is inserted halfway between the entry and exit of the previous stitch. A strong seam is necessary for sewing the armhole lining to the sleeve set-in seams. The length of the stitches is from 1.5 to 2 cm. In another way, such a seam is called “with a needle.”

6. Cross stitch, or “goat”.

More like a finishing or even decorative seam. Although it also has a direct purpose - fixing the hem and edge of the sleeves. The direction of embroidery is from bottom to top. This means that the stitches are made independently. It looks very cute, great for children's and women's clothing, but requires some patience. The stitches are carefully placed crosswise, forming a symmetrical pattern.

The overlock stitch has several varieties. You can’t do without it if you need to beautifully finish the edge of a garment or other textile product. Stitches are made from left to right, bringing the needle towards you. A buttonhole stitch will allow you to create both straight and curved lines and hold together parts of different textures.

What is important to consider when working on stitches?

The easiest way to master hand stitches is by embroidering with floss threads on a special fabric. This is the best option for training beginners. If you want to hone your crafting skills, you can start by marking your stitches with a water-soluble marker. Then it will be much easier to make an even, beautiful and smooth seam. Do not forget that the aesthetics of the finished product depends on the equal length of the stitches and the appropriate distance between them.

Special attention should be paid to working with . This popular material tends to shrink after washing. Therefore, before cutting, it is recommended to wash the fabric in advance and take this feature into account when leaving allowances. Dozens of patterns and samples of hand stitches for knitted and other fabrics are available in special books and on the Internet. Mastering sewing skills depends only on your desire and perseverance. Here, as in many other activities, it is important to systematically hone your skills.

Hand stitches are the basis of all sewing craft. Even with high-quality modern technology, you cannot do your work without hand stitches. Our master class will introduce you to a variety of hand stitches, which will definitely come in handy when sewing clothes and various accessories. We will talk about the very basics of hand sewing and help you master ten hand stitches with your own hands.

Hand stitches: basic rules

How to sew hand stitches with your own hands? There are several basic rules that you should adhere to when sewing by hand.

• Be sure to work on a level and flat surface.
• The hand sewing needle must match both the fabric and the threads.
• For more comfortable and faster work, use a thimble. It is placed on the middle finger of the hand with which you are holding the needle.
• As you work, control the tension of the thread: it should not be pulled too tight.

Getting Started: Node

We'll show you how to tie a knot at the end of a thread quickly and easily.

Hold the thread with your left hand. Loop the thread around the tip of the index finger of your right hand, and place it on the end of the thread. Place your thumb on the crossed threads and, pulling the long thread, move your thumb to the end of your index finger so that the threads twist around each other. Then drop the loop. Pinch the ring between your thumb and index (or middle) fingers. Pull the long end with your left hand and gently tighten the knot.

How to secure the thread at the end of the seam?

You can secure the thread in two ways: with a knot or tack. To create a knot, make a small stitch on the wrong side, on top of the last stitch. Slowly tighten the thread until a small loop remains.

Pass the needle through the loop and continue tightening until a second loop appears. Pass the corner into the second loop and pull the thread tightly, forming a knot. To make the tack, simply make a few small stitches using a backstitch. These stitches are placed one on top of the other and hold the layers of fabric together well.

Now let's learn more about how to make hand stitches with your own hands.

Back stitch

This stitch is one of the strongest hand stitches available. It is used for seams in hard-to-reach places and for securing stitches at the end and beginning. Bring the needle to the top side. Make a small stitch back (2-3 mm) and bring the needle up again, retreating the same 2-3 mm along the seam line.

On the wrong side the stitches will be twice as long as on the front side.

Back stitch with skips

This option is also used to secure the transition edge of the facing and hem.

Perform a regular backstitch, but pull the needle back half the stitch length. The needle still comes out the length of a whole stitch.

Loop stitch

Used for the manufacture of hand-processed parts: hanging thread loops and holes, thread loops, hook fasteners, belt loops. Also suitable for decorating felt or fleece parts. Sew the seam from left to right, positioning the fabric so that its cut is at the bottom.

Secure the stitch to the edge of the fabric with a loop or any other method convenient for you.

For each stitch, point the needle toward you. Stick the needle into the right side of the fabric and bring it over the thread at a distance of about 5-6mm from the edge and the same distance to the right. Do not pull the thread too tight.

Seam "Goat" ("Herringbone")

Use this stitch to join two layers of fabric with a slight degree of movement, for example to join a lining to a garment or to hem knitwear.

Sew the seam from left to right. Make a small horizontal stitch in the top layer, slightly away from the edge. Then, just beyond the edge of the top layer, sew another stitch on the bottom layer, diagonally to the right of the first stitch. Sew stitches without tightening the thread.

French setting

Use this bartack to attach the hem of the loose lining to the hem of the garment.

Sew 2-3 stitches, about 2.5-3cm long, between the garment and the lining.

On top of the long stitches, sew stitches in a buttonhole stitch, placing them as close to each other as possible. Completely cover the long stitches with loops.

Use this stitch for all types of hems.

Make an inconspicuous small stitch in the fabric of the project, and then bring the needle up diagonally across the edge of the hem. The distance between stitches is 5-6 mm.

Seam "over the edge" ("overlock")

Use this stitch to prevent fabric sections from fraying.

Insert the needle perpendicular to the cut of the fabric, making diagonal stitches across the edge. Try to keep the stitches the same size and at an equal distance from each other.

Once the stitch is finished, you can go back and stick the needle into the holes you have already made, thus creating “triangular” stitches.

This version of the “back needle” seam is used to finish sewing in zippers on fabrics such as velvet, corduroy or satin, in case the machine stitching looks unsightly.

Bring the needle up through all layers of fabric. Perform a back stitch, picking up 1-2 threads of fabric. Bring the needle to the surface, retreating 5-6 mm forward.

This stitch is a basic hand stitch used for cinching fabric, tucks, darning and non-stress seams.

Sew forward a few stitches, bringing the needle evenly in and out of the fabric before pulling the thread through.

The number of stitches depends on the thickness of the material. The length of the stitch and the distance between them depends on the location of the seam and can range from 3 mm to 3 cm.

Used for maximum discreet finishing of hems, linings, pockets, etc.

Pass the needle through the folded edge of the top fabric. Grab one thread of the bottom fabric and reinsert the needle into the fold of the top fabric.

To sew up a hole in a machine-stitched seam, sew a blind stitch, catching an equal number of threads in the top and bottom layers. Make a few stitches and then pull the seam section together.

All tailors want to sew a product quickly and efficiently. But it often happens that when working on a sewing machine, one part is stretched relative to another or, conversely, assembled. Or when trying on ready-made clothes, it turns out that the product does not fit the figure. Therefore, before you start laying on a machine, you need to secure the parts or some assembly in front (valve or side corner) manually. Many people neglect manual work due to laziness or speed, however, do not forget about the saying “The slower you go, the further you will go”! The more painstaking the manual work, the easier, faster and better quality a particular unit will be processed.

Types of hand stitches.

There are 7 types of hand stitches in total:

When making hand stitches, you need to make sure that they are even and uniform, and the threads need to be tightened evenly.

Straight stitches

Straight ones are the simplest and very easy to bloom. They are used only temporarily and are removed during further processing. The following lines are made from straight stitches.

Basting stitch

We fold the two parts with their right sides inward, aligning the cuts or control lines, and lay straight stitches 7-15 mm long - with a slight slack in one of the parts, and 15-25 - without slack.

Such stitches are used to connect side, shoulder sections, etc.

Basting stitch

We place one part on top of another and connect them with straight stitches 7-25 mm long - with a fit, and 25-50 mm without a fit.

It is used when you need to connect two parts, placing one on top of the other, as well as to connect small parts with large ones, for example, when you need patch pockets, borders on a shelf, etc.

Note stitch

We bend the cut of the part along the intended line and lay a line of straight stitches 10-30 mm long.

Used to temporarily secure a folded section of a part (sweep the bottom of the product, the bottom of the sleeves, etc.).

Basting stitch

It is used to temporarily secure the facing edge of a part when making products from thin materials and materials with stripes and checkered patterns (flap, collar, bead, etc.). Stitch length – 7-10 mm. The stitch is laid from the side of the part to which I pass the seam, that is, they form an edging.

The edge is the distance from the edge to the seam.

Copy line

Used to transfer lines from one part to another. Two identical parts are folded with their right sides inward, aligning all the cuts, and a line of straight, loose stitches is laid along the marked lines, while forming loops 2-3 mm high, depending on the thickness of the fabric. Then we move the parts apart, stretching the stitches, and cut the threads of the stitches between the parts. Stitch length 10-15 mm.

Gather stitch

To form gathers, lay two parallel lines 3-7 mm long with a distance from the cut of the part to the first line of 3-5 mm, between lines 1-4 mm. We tighten the cut of the part with thread to the desired size. We distribute the resulting assemblies evenly along the entire length.

Oblique stitches

They form a more durable and elastic connection of materials than straight ones. Oblique stitches are used to make lines for both temporary and permanent purposes.

• Temporary bias stitches include:

Basting stitch

Replaces basting stitch with straight stitches when it is necessary to obtain a more stable connection of parts, since oblique stitches do not allow one part to move relative to another. For example, with parts with a fit - collars on the front, top collar on the bottom, etc. Stitch length 7-20 mm.

Basting stitch

Replaces the basting stitch with straight stitches on all fabrics except thin dress fabrics and striped suit fabrics. Slant stitches can distort the design by pulling it across the stitches. For example: the edges of flaps, hems, etc. Basting is done from the side of the part to which the seam is passed, forming an edging. Stitch length 7-10 mm.

• Permanent bias stitches include:

Overcast stitch

We protect the cut parts from falling off. (bottom cut of the product, sleeves, etc.) Stitch length 5-7 mm. Width 3-5 mm. Stitch frequency 3-4 per 1 cm.

Quilt stitch

It is used for fastening the main and interlining fabrics to increase the elasticity of the part (lapel, jacket collar). To perform it, the upper fabric, the cushioning one, is pierced through, and the lower one, the main one, is half-thick. As a result, the stitching thread on the front side is not visible. Stitch length 5-7 mm, width 3-5 mm. The distance between lines is 5-7 mm.

Hemming stitch

Used for permanently securing the folded edge of a part with an open raw cut in thick fabrics, as well as for edging the inner edges of hems, etc. The width of the seam with an open cut is 2-3 mm, with a closed cut - 1 mm. The stitch length for a seam with an open cut is 3-5 mm, for hemming an edge 5-7 mm, for attaching the inner edges of a part 4-10 mm.

Stitches for discreet fastening of parts

There are two types:

A) Stitching stitch - for inconspicuously connecting parts of a product made of dense, non-fraying fabrics where they were accidentally cut or torn. The parts are placed end-to-end, matching the pattern. At a distance of 2-3 mm from the cut, the needle pierces the tissue to half its thickness and is then inserted into the cut. The cut should be tightly connected with stitches. Nothing should be visible from the front side. Stitch length 1-2 mm, frequency 5-7 stitches per 1 cm.

B) Cover stitch - needed to make the seam made on a sewing machine inconspicuous.

Cross stitches

Used for hemming the bottom of products. A special feature of such stitches is the absence of threads on the front side of the product. The hem can be done openly along the edge or hidden - inside the hem allowance. You can also make finishing stitches using cross stitches. The length and width of the stitches are 5-7 mm.

Loop stitches

Used for hand loops, as well as for decorative design of any parts, napkins, blankets. Make a loop stitch. The stitch size is determined by the designer. When sewing buttonholes, the frequency of stitches is 6-10 for every 10 mm, the width is 2-3 mm.

Loop stitches

Stitches provide the most durable and elastic bonding of materials, and are used only for permanent stitches.

Loop stitches make the following stitches:

Fur stitch

They are used when finishing the edges of jacket parts (sides, collar, hem, etc.). When performing them, the threads of the stitches are placed inside the fastening of the fabrics and the stitching is hardly noticeable from the top and bottom sides. Stitch length 3-4 mm.

Marking line

Needed to connect several layers of fabric, if necessary, create a strong but elastic bond.

The needle pierces through all layers of fabric. Having made a stitch, step back 0.5 stitches from the execution side. On the front side it imitates a running stitch. Stitch length is 1.5-2 cm. Used when marking armholes, sewing shoulder pads, etc.

Hemming (hidden) stitch

It is this line that is used when they say “luxury treatment”. It is called “secret” for a reason; it is not visible either from the back or from the front side.

The needle is first inserted into the fold of the folded edge, and then, at the level of the fold puncture, we make a puncture along the edge of the folded allowance to half the thickness of the fabric. The stitch frequency is 3-4 per 1 cm. Used when you need to line the armhole of a sleeve or the bottom of a product, etc.

Stitch stitch

In other words, it is also called “back needle”. It imitates machine stitching, and on one side it is no different from it. Has a permanent purpose.

The needle pierces through all layers of fabric, after making a stitch, it returns back to the previous puncture. The next puncture is made from the opposite side of the execution at a distance equal to two stitches and again returns to the previous puncture. Stitch length 3-5 mm.

Special stitches

Used when you need to make loop fastenings, buttons, hooks or buttons.

Hand stitches and machine work. Types and applications

Hand stitches and machine work, which are especially indispensable at the initial stage of product manufacturing

The seams are made in one or several lines, and, in addition to the main function, they are also used to finish the product.
The seams should be even, with the same distance between stitches, both on the front side and on the back, with threads evenly tightened.

Types of hand stitches.

1. The most common seam at the initial stage of product manufacturing is estimate.
It is used for temporarily connecting parts (basting) and creating assemblies.
Depending on what kind of fabric you are dealing with and what you are using this seam for, the length of the stitches is 0.2-5 cm.

2. Interlining seam- a type of estimate. It is convenient to use for making notes during fitting, marking the middle of the product, etc. It is performed on one layer of fabric. The length of the stitches is 1-3 cm, the distance between them is 0.5-0.7 cm.

Hand stitches. 1 - Basting, 2 - interfacing, 3 - copying, 4 - round, 5a - transfer seam (front side), 5b - transfer seam (wrong side), 6 - stitching, 7 - "for a needle" seam.

3. Snare or copy stitch.
Used for precise transfer of contour lines and control marks from one symmetrical side of the product to the other. It is very convenient, gives an excellent opportunity to sweep and combine products with each other absolutely accurately for further work.
It is carried out as follows: the parts of the product are folded together with the front side inward. Along the marked lines, running stitches are laid with soft threads (preferably cotton) with a distance of 0.3-1 cm from each other.
It differs from a simple running stitch in that the thread is not tightened, but loops are made 1-1.5 cm high, depending on the thickness of the fabric.
After marking the entire contour, the parts of the product are moved apart, and the stretched threads are cut in the middle.

4. Transfer seam- a type of basting, used for basting parts with shaped cuts and for adjusting the pattern.
The part with the folded cut is placed on the front side of another part, basted and pinned. Both details are swept away. The needle is removed from the fabric on the lower part at the fold of the upper part; 2-3 threads are picked up on it at the fold of the upper part.
The distance between the injections is 0.2-0.5 cm. The parts are basted again from the wrong side along the stitches and sewn.

5. To process the edges of parts (ruffles, flounces, etc.) use round seam.
The cut is bent towards the wrong side by 0.3-0.5 cm, 2-3 threads of fabric are picked up near the folded cut and 2-3 threads on the fold.
It is not necessary to tighten the thread after each stitch; to speed up the work, you can do this after 30-45 stitches. The seam density is 3 stitches per 1 cm.

6. Stitch seam- resembles a machine stitch.
It is used for permanently connecting parts in places where machine stitching is not possible, or in cases where it is necessary to obtain a seam of increased stretchability.
There is no space between stitches. Sew from top to bottom. The distance between the entrance and exit of the needle is 0.1-0.7 cm. The injection is made at the exit site of the previous stitch. Requires a fairly experienced hand.

7. Seam “by the needle” (marking).
Perform the same as stitching, but leave a distance between the stitches. The needle prick is made halfway between the entry and exit of the previous stitch.

Hand stitches. 1a - bias overcasting (pressed), 1b - bias overcasting (opened), 2 - cross overcasting, 3 - loop overcasting, 4 - simple (open) hemming, 5 - hidden hemming, 6 - preparing the bottom of the product for hemming, 7 - figured hemming.

8. Overlock stitch serves to prevent fraying at the edges of the fabric.

There are several types of overlock stitch:
- Oblique, done over the edge. From bottom to top, the line is laid from right to left. For 1 cm - 2-3 stitches.
- Cross-shaped, similar to oblique. As in oblique, the needle is inserted from top to bottom, but only in two directions. In this case, the thread is not opened and the product is not turned.
- Looped. It is used to process sections in loose tissues. The needle is inserted from top to bottom, the thread of the previous stitch lies under the needle. The line is laid from left to right.
The seam density is 2-3 stitches 0.4-0.6 cm long per 1 cm of fabric.

9. Hemming stitch used for hemming the edge of a product part.
In order to use this seam, it is necessary to prepare a cut of the product. First, fold the entire hem allowance and baste it at a distance of 0.5-1 cm from the fold using a running stitch. Then the hemmed section is folded again by 0.5-1 cm and basted at a distance of 0.2-0.3 cm from the second fold. The cut is ironed.

There are several types of hemming seams:
-Simple (open). At the fold, the needle grabs 2-3 threads of the main part, pierces it under the fold and brings the needle out on the other side (push it through).

- Secret. The hem allowance is folded to the right side, leaving 0.2 cm of a folded cut on the wrong side. The thread is secured in the allowance on the hem of the product, a needle is inserted under the fold of the hemmed edge, and at the exit, at least 2-3 threads of the main product are picked up.
The stitching goes from right to left, the thread is not pulled tight. For 1 cm of fabric, 2-3 stitches are quite enough.

- Figured or cross-shaped. It is used when using dense, non-flowing fabrics (pique, carpet, tartan, rep, tweed, calico and others). Can also be used as a finishing seam.
When sewing, the needle is pulled from left to right and from bottom to top. The cut is left open, the fabric is folded only for the allowance. The first injection is made into the main tissue near the cut, 2-3 threads are threaded onto the needle so as not to pierce the front side! The second prick is for the hem allowance. For 1 cm of fabric, 2-3 stitches are enough, the stitch length is 04-07 cm.

10. In addition to those seams that serve utilitarian purposes: fastening, basting, etc., there are also seams that help make the finished item more attractive - finishing seams.
The most common ones loop, tambour, herringbone, cross, goat-cross, hemstitch, “nun” (triangle).

Finishing seams. a - looped, b - tambour, c - herringbone, d - cross, d - goat-cross, f - hemstitch, g - "nun".

I want to clarify one seam - “ nun”, all others are simpler to implement and are shown in the figure.

The “nun” is used to secure folds, pockets, stitches, and cuts. The outline of an equilateral triangle is drawn with a basting line. The first stitch is made from one corner at the base of the triangle to its vertex, the second from the vertex to the third corner, the next from the third corner to the first next to the original exact seam, and so on.
They try to ensure that the thread is equally tensioned everywhere. The entire triangle is gradually filled.
For strength, a piece of interlining fabric is sewn from the inside out.

When making garments, one encounters various types of manual and machine work.

For manual work, perform the following:operations.

Sweep away- temporarily join the sections of two pieces together using simple running stitches for fitting or preparation for machine stitching. When basting oblique cuts with straight ones, the oblique cut should be held at the top and make sure that it does not stretch out, and when basting a lobe cut with a transverse one, the last one should be at the top.

Sweep- process the edges of the open seams of the product to protect them from fraying.

Baste- attach a decorative detail to the product (pockets, folds, etc.).

Sweep in- connect one part to another along rounded lines (for example, sleeves, collar, etc.)

Tack- connect the parts prepared for machine stitching (baste the skirt to the bodice, flounces, etc.).

Hem- secure the folded edges to the product (bottom of the dress, edges of the sleeves, etc.) with hidden stitches.

Sew on- attach buttons, braid, hooks, snaps, etc. with a few stitches.

Lay a snare- stitches that form small loops (0.5 - 0.7 cm) on the front side of the product, which are used to transfer chalk lines from the same part to another (for example, a dart from the right shelf to the left, control marks, etc. ). The parts are folded with their front sides facing inward.

Landing- free arrangement of one part in relation to another when connecting them together, fit of the sleeve edge when threading it into the armhole, fit of the shoulder section of the back when connecting it to the front sections, and so on.

The terms of work performed by the machine include the following:

Stitch- connect the fabric sections with a simple seam. When sewing an oblique part from a straight one, the oblique part should be held from below; if a lobe part is sewn off from a transverse part, then the transverse part must be held from below.

Stitch- connect a small part to a large one, for example, sew wedges, cuffs, pockets.

Grind- process the edge of the part with a simple seam (lining the valves, lining the sides).

Sew in- connect the sleeves with the armhole, the collar with the neck, etc.

Stitch- apply a finishing stitch along the edge of the basted part on the front side, for example, sew a yoke on a bodice, a pocket on a skirt or blouse.

Hem- bend the edge of the cut and stitch, for example, the bottom of a shirt, blouse, etc.

Unstitch- iron the seam and apply two finishing lines near the seam on the front side to the desired width, such as folds, darts, etc.

Ironing work

Make a fuss- eliminate the fit on the product, reduce the size of the part or its individual sections.

Iron- place the seam or reliefs on one side and iron.

Iron- seal folds, seams, etc. with an iron.

Iron- eliminate bruises and give the product a beautiful appearance.

Pull with an iron- lengthen the cut sections of a part, for example, the take-off of a collar or some part, increase the take-off edge of a peplum, trim, flounces.

Tools needed for sewing

When sewing at home, you must have the following equipment: needles, cutter, scissors, thimble, measuring tape, pins. The needles must match the thickness of the fabric, and therefore the thread number. The cutter is used when transferring the contour of the pattern onto the fabric, as well as the line from one side to the other. Scissors for cutting fabric are usually used in medium size. The thimble is selected according to the size of the middle finger. A measuring tape is used to take measurements (figure measurements), as well as when cutting fabric. Pins are necessary for fitting the product on a human figure; sometimes the details of the pattern and fabric are pinned with pins.

Hand stitches

The parts of the product are fastened with seams. Most common in clothing manufacturing

basting seam

(Fig. 1, a). It is used mainly for temporary connection of parts (basting) and for the formation of assemblies. The length of the basting stitch ranges from 0.7 to 2.5 cm. Basting stitches are performed using cotton threads N 60-80 when processing wool, silk, thin synthetic fabrics and threads N 30-40 when processing flannel, corduroy, denim, etc.

Interlining seam

(b) - a type of estimate. It is used for marks during fitting, to indicate the middle of the part and other lines. Perform on one layer of fabric. The length of the stitches is 1-3 cm, the distance between them is 0.5-0.7 cm.

Copy seam

(snare) is used to accurately transfer contour lines and contour marks from one side of the part to the other, symmetrical to it (c). The parts are folded with their right sides inward and running stitches are laid along the marked lines with soft cotton threads at a distance of 0.3-1 cm from one another; The thread is not tightened so that it forms loops measuring 1-1.5 cm, depending on the thickness of the fabric. Then the parts are moved apart and the stretched threads are cut.

Rice. 1. Simple hand stitches:

a - estimating, b - spacer, c - copying

Transfer seam

(Fig. 2) are used when basting parts with shaped cuts and when adjusting the pattern. The part with the folded cut is placed on the front side of another part, basting or pinned. Both details are swept away. The needle is removed from the fabric of the lower part at the fold of the upper part, and 2-3 threads are picked up on it at the fold of the upper part. The distance between the injections is 0.3-0.5 cm. The parts are basted again from the wrong side along the stitches and then stitched.

Rice. 2. Transfer seam

a - front view, b - back view

Hand stitched seam

(Fig. 3, a) resembles a machine stitch. It is used to join parts instead of machine stitching in cases where the stitching should have greater stretch (for example, when joining the middle sections of trousers.

When performing a stitch, the needle is inserted into the fabric from top to bottom in the same way as when performing a running stitch, but when the second stitch is formed, it is again inserted into the first puncture and withdrawn further than when the first stitch was formed. The distance between the entrance and exit is 0.1-0.7 cm. This chain of stitches is performed with threads N 30 and 40.

Seam "by the needle"

(marking) are performed in the same way as stitching, but with a distance between stitches (b). The needle prick is made halfway between the entry and exit of the previous stitch.

Rice. 3. Connecting seams:

a - stitched, b - seam “by the needle”

Overcasting shoV

protects cut parts from falling off. There are several types.

An oblique seam (Fig. 4) is made over the edge. The needle is inserted from the bottom up, stitching from right to left. The seam density is 2 - 3 stitches per 1 cm of fabric.

Similar to an oblique seam, a cross-shaped seam is also made, only in two directions (Fig. 5). The thread is not torn off and the product is not turned.

For hemming the edges of product parts, use

hemming seams.

The cut must be pre-prepared (Fig. 6, a). First, fold the entire hem allowance and baste it at a distance of 0.5 - 1 cm from the fold using a running stitch. Then the cut is folded by 0.5 - 1 cm and basted at a distance of 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the second fold. The folded cut is ironed.

There are several types of sewing seams.

Simple or open (b). With the needle emerging from the fold, 2-3 threads of the main part are grabbed, an injection is made under the fold, and the needle is pushed. The seam density is 2 - 3 stitches per 1 cm of fabric.

In a blind seam (c), the entire basted hem allowance is folded over to the right side, leaving 0.2 - 0.3 cm of a folded cut on the wrong side. The thread is secured in the hem allowance, the needle is inserted under the fold of the edge being hemmed, and when it comes out, 2-3 threads of the main part are picked up. The line is laid from right to left. The thread is not pulled tight. The seam density is 2 - 3 stitches per 1 cm of fabric.

A figured (cross-shaped) seam (d) is used when hemming the bottom of a product made of dense, non-flowing fabrics and as a finishing stitch. Perform from left to right from bottom to top. The cut is open, the fabric is folded only to allowance. Make the first injection into the main fabric near the cut, put 2 - 3 threads on the needle so as not to pin it on the front side, the second injection - behind the hem allowance. Stitch length is 0.4 - 0.7 cm, seam density is 2 - 3 stitches per 1 cm of fabric.

Instructions

Learn how to make the simplest, most universal stitch, the “forward needle” stitch. Make a knot at the end of the thread, insert the needle into the fabric and pull it out to the right side of the fabric. Perform the first stitch, moving from right to left: bring the needle to the wrong side of the fabric, then back to the front side. The most important thing when making a seam like this is to make all the stitches the same size in a completely straight line.

Try creating an interesting decorative stitch using simple straight stitches. Carry out a neat stitch according to the pattern of step No. 1. After this, pass the thread through all the stitches on the right side of the fabric, without catching the fabric itself with the needle. You will get a beautiful wavy stitch. To achieve more interesting effects, you can use contrasting threads. Another decorative option: make two “forward needle” seams parallel to each other, then pass the threads under the stitches in a mirror manner.

Practice making a blind seam. You can carefully connect two pieces of linen with ironed seam allowances like this: make a knot in the thread and bring the needle to the face of the product exactly in the seam allowance line. After this, pull the thread and needle into the opposite allowance and carefully tighten the stitch to no more than 2-3 mm in length. Complete the entire seam in this manner.

Hem the bottom of the fabric. Fold and iron the edge of the fabric, then from the wrong side of the product, take the first step of the “needle forward” seam. Grab a thread or two of fabric and carefully tighten the blind stitch. Sew the seam in a straight line close to the edge of the hem and be careful that the stitching is not visible from the outside of the product. It is very important to use thread that exactly matches the fabric and not to tighten the stitches too much.

Hand-sew the cut edge of the fabric to prevent the material from fraying. The simplest overcast stitches are made oblique and placed at the same, close distance to one another. Step back 3-5 mm from the edge of the fabric, secure the thread with a knot and make an oblique stitch that goes around the cut of the fabric. The thread should carefully wrap around the edge without pulling it. Sew the woven edge all the way from right to left, then (without turning the work) sew bias stitches in the opposite direction. The result was a cross stitch.

Always fasten the thread very securely at the end of each seam, otherwise the stitching will unravel. At the end of the work, pull the thread to the wrong side of the fabric and make a couple of small stitches, carefully grabbing the fabric from behind. Form a thread loop, insert a needle into it, grab the fabric again and tighten the knot.