Sommelier Erkin Tuzmukhamedov: biography, books. Erkin Tuzmukhamedov: The philosophy of life is completely diverse Erkin Tuzmukhamedov biography
Erkin Tuzmukhamedov
Erkin Tuzmukhamedov
Member of the Russian Sommelier Association, stuntman, artistic director and soloist of the plywood music ensemble "Walrus", WORLD CHAMPION IN SLOW PIPE SMOKING, loving father - that's all Erkin Tuzmukhamedov. And perhaps he is the best person in Russia at talking and writing about whiskey.
— Many people remember you primarily as a rock journalist who made a name for himself in the 90s. And suddenly you are an expert in the field of alcoholic beverages, the author of books on alcoholic topics... How and when did this transformation happen?
- In fact, no metamorphoses happened to me. I developed an interest in the topic of alcoholic beverages—note, as a phenomenon, and not just as a consumer product—as early as childhood. While vacationing with my parents in the Kaliningrad region, I met an amazing man who was a real master in making all kinds of liqueurs. Thanks to his science, at the age of 12 I made my first liqueur - cherry.
— However, in the professional community you gained fame as an expert in whiskey, and not in wines and liqueurs. And you also write books about whiskey, not wines.
— I have great respect for wines. But what really interests me is strong drinks. In my opinion, they are “more honest” or something... There are fewer conventions with them - you drink and understand whether you like it or not. With wine everything is different - tones, half-tones, right bank, left bank, etc. And besides, it just so happened that the first alcoholic drink I tasted was whiskey - Japanese Suntory Whiskey. Since then, I have become interested in this drink - its history, production technology, national characteristics, etc.
- Today there is so much literature on alcohol topics - both ours and translated ones... Have you ever feared that you might end up being just another author in this series?
- No. I was rather pleased that the opportunity had finally arisen to write a fundamentally new, at least new in form, book about alcohol. After all, most of the existing literature on alcohol is not even popular science, but simply a popular genre, at the tabloid level. This is understandable, because in most cases their authors are people who are far from knowing the intricacies of the production of the drink, its consumers, not producers. And in the end, the reader receives a very artistic narrative, but it is more emotional than meaningful, and therefore amateurish. Of course, I am also a kind of amateur, but an amateur who strives to become a professional.
— Is it true that in your spare time you make moonshine?
- Is it true. (Smiles). I actually have a good moonshine still, with which I make strong drinks - something like homemade whiskey and homemade brandy. I use beer as raw material for whiskey. After all, this drink is as close in composition as possible to whiskey. It is no coincidence that if you mix one with the other while drinking, the consequences will never be as catastrophic as if you mix beer and vodka, for example. And recently, thanks to the chief sanitary doctor of Russia, Mr. Onishchenko, my supplies of home-made drinks were replenished with an impressive size barrel of home-made brandy. At a very reasonable price, I managed to purchase quite a lot of Moldavian and Georgian wine, the composition of which was quite suitable for distillation. Which, naturally, I did not fail to take advantage of.
text by Nelya Ivanova
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Who will dispute the assertion that alcohol is an integral part of Russian culture? Most likely, this component is already fixed at the genetic level. Is it not this feature of the Russian mentality that prompted the classic to deduce the postulate: “Russia cannot be understood with the mind...”?
One way or another, it makes no sense to fight alcohol consumption in Rus', this is generally accepted. But at certain concentrations, alcohol is poisonous! Many books have been written about its harmful effects on health and fate; sad examples of the results of abuse are found at every step. How to deal with this?
Erkin Tuzmukhamedov, a member of the Russian Sommelier Association, widely known in the circles of wine lovers and experts, devoted his entire life to the study of alcohol that excites the world.
The famous sommelier willingly shares his thoughts on when and what kind of beloved “booze” (the famous shocking term used by the expert in his books and lectures) can turn into poison, and when it is not only not harmful, but even useful those who wish.
His views on this burning topic are interesting for everyone who is far from hypocrisy, takes a broad view of life and is ready to accept the master’s original philosophical approach.
Erkin Tuzmukhamedov, sommelier
He is a leading Russian expert in the field, the author of numerous publications in well-known publications, a member of judging commissions and international wine and spirits competitions.
In addition, Erkin Tuzmukhamedov devoted several books to the topic of alcohol, which are used by many professionals and drink connoisseurs in Russia and the CIS as teaching aids. A recognized expert on alcohol topics, he maintains his own online blog, as well as radio and television programs.
It should also be said that Tuzmukhamedov is the owner of a sommelier school, in which everyone who wants to join the secrets of his knowledge and skill is trained.
But this is not the end of celebrity life. His world is rich and multifaceted. Member of the Russian Association Erkin Tuzmukhamedov is also an employee of the Master stuntmen association. In addition, he leads the plywood music ensemble “Walrus” and is a soloist in it.
And finally, Erkin Tuzmukhamedov systematically takes part in the world championships in slow pipe smoking.
What and how should a true gentleman drink?
According to the expert, the main thing he does in life is teaching people how to drink properly. Mostly, people choose drinks under the influence of established stereotypes, succumbing to advertising, fashion, and misinformation disseminated by companies seeking to promote their product. Because of this, real poison often enters their body, which, according to a specialist, should not be drunk.
Few Russian connoisseurs of alcohol have a real understanding of the culture of drinking alcoholic beverages, which is quite developed in Europe.
Because of this, this problem exists in Rus' - drunkenness.
This traditional Russian social problem cannot be fought with prohibitive methods, as Erkin Tuzmukhamedov believes. It is necessary to instill the culture of drinking alcohol in a new generation.
Erkin Tuzmukhamedov: biography
When telling journalists about himself, the sommelier invariably calls his childhood “very difficult.” His father, professor, world-famous political scientist, Rais Tuzmukhamedov, loved to check how his son was doing his homework. And since both were doing poorly in mathematics, and the boy was allowed to go out only after he had completed all his assignments, he mostly had to sit at home. Thanks to this, he started reading early.
I also became involved with others. When his father went on business trips, and this happened quite often, Erkin opened the treasured cabinet and... tasted drinks from numerous beautiful foreign bottles.
At the age of 12 he tried whiskey for the first time. It was Japanese Suntory Kakubin, which the boy liked from the first sip. Since then, whiskey has been the favorite drink of sommeliers. You can say that the master fell in love with him since childhood.
“About tasty and healthy whiskey”
That’s what Erkin Tuzmukhamedov wanted to call one of his books in all seriousness.
Bookmasters: “Whisky of the World”, “Scotch Whiskey”, “Whisky. Guide", "Strong Spirits of the World", "Gastronomic Encyclopedia of Whiskey", "Champagne and Other Sparkling Wines of France", "Booze" - are intended both for professionals in the retail trade and restaurant business, and for a wide range of readers. For the first time in the domestic literature on alcohol, they present a systematization of strong drinks based on their raw materials. Much attention is paid to their review, history of origin and technology of production, serving, and storage. Advice is given: how, when, where and what, in fact, to drink.
But most importantly, they provide detailed information about one of the most interesting and diverse drinks in the world - Scotch whiskey. The history of origin, manufacturing technology, brands and varieties, subtleties of tasting, rules for drinking the drink, set out in the example of one of the most popular in the world - Dewar’s, immersion in the most interesting regional information - all this can make the reader a true connoisseur of whiskey.
About the whiskey school
Erkin Tuzmukhamedov considers this drink to be truly beneficial for the body. The expert names the dose: up to 120 g (3 servings of whiskey) can warm you up and effectively “clear your brain.” The master considers this drink to be absolutely self-sufficient - it is drunk in small sips without any snack.
He calls himself a true fan of this drink, having tasted almost all varieties, knowing a lot about whiskey and ready to share his knowledge with others.
This is what whiskey expert Tuzmukhamedov Erkin looks like: photo taken during the tasting.
Not theory, but practice
At one time, the sommelier created his own whiskey school - “Angel's Share”. The only teacher at the whiskey school, which opened in March 2008, was the expert himself.
Erkin Tuzmukhamedov reads lectures to those who wish (the photo above demonstrates the process).
The school organized meetings with whiskey producers visiting Russia, other interesting guests of the country, and drink lovers. Listeners had the opportunity to talk with John Campbell (American science fiction writer), as well as Bill Samuels, owner of one of the brands of American bourbon.
The emphasis at school was not on theory, but on practice. Each lesson was supported by a mandatory tasting (6 samples each), which gives an idea of the dynamics of the aging process, the influence of the type of barrel on the taste of the drink, regional differences, etc.
"I discovered the world..."
This is how one of the listeners begins his review of the whiskey school and adds: “... no, perhaps the whole universe of Scotch whiskey...”
Simple three components - yeast, water and malt - would seem to completely remove the understatement from the technology of preparing the drink. But immersion in the diversity of tastes, aromas and styles leaves listeners with the confidence that a lifetime may not be enough to understand the exciting world of whiskey...
Dewar's Whiskey Ambassador
There are countless fans of Scotch whiskey around the world. But the secrets of the production of the drink, its history, and rules of use are known to few.
Erkin Tuzmukhamedov is a true expert practitioner of this drink. At his small distillery in his country house, the master personally produces whiskey from time to time. Starting work early in the morning, by the evening he receives 3 liters of a 70-degree drink, the production technology of which has no secrets for him.
The sommelier is the ambassador of Dewar’s whiskey in Russia, he began cooperation with the brand not only out of admiration for the drink, but also out of respect for the company’s founder, Tommy Dewar, who was far ahead of his time.
Teaching at the Dewar’s Whiskey Academy, Erkin Tuzmukhamedov shared his knowledge with restaurateurs and simply connoisseurs of the drink in a brief and accessible form.
"Don't mix whiskey and cola"
When asked how to drink whiskey correctly, Erkin Tuzmukhamedov replies that in the head of each person there is a special, very useful technological hole into which the drink should be poured using glassware.
But seriously speaking, the most important thing to remember is: don’t drink it with ice or cola.
An aged drink, first of all, gives pleasure in aroma. As you know, all aromatic compounds are volatile. Exposure to low temperature (ice) significantly reduces aroma release.
Cola is a terrible poison. Cola contains components that corrode rust on metal. You can imagine how effectively it corrodes the walls of the human stomach. Cola can kill everything, not to mention the taste and aroma of whiskey. But if the whiskey is bad, then you can drink it with cola.
It is better to drink a good one in nature, so that the aroma and taste of the drink is not overwhelmed by city smog. And it’s better not to smoke. And if you smoke, then only cigars.
About the sommelier school
In 2009, not satisfied with the role of a guest expert on strong alcohol, which he had to perform in all Moscow schools, sommelier Erkin Tuzmukhamedov decided to found his own, in which he is a co-owner. His educational institution is registered at the address: Leningradskoye Shosse, building 96, building 1, building 1. Moscow, 125195.
The deep professional experience of teachers gained over years of work as leading tasters, experts and bartenders is what this sommelier school is based on. Erkin Tuzmukhamedov offers listeners a detailed historical excursion about the birth of the drink, information about the geography of production, preparation technology, classification of varieties.
The most important part of the course is practical exercises - tasting of strong drinks: whiskey, cognac, rum or vodka.
Students are also offered short courses on types of cigars, bar skills and mixology.
As is clear from the announcement, classes at the school are held on Tuesdays and Fridays, starting at 19:00 and “until the last drop in the last bottle,” so students are not recommended to come to school by personal transport.
About vodka and alcoholism
Journalists often ask him how a spirits expert feels about such a stereotypical drink as vodka. Erkin Tuzmukhamedov considers vodka one of the biggest deceptions of the 20th century. What CIS GOST standards pass off as vodka is actually pure neutral alcohol diluted with water to 40 degrees. In physics, this is called a binary mixture, where only two components are mixed.
Whiskey, tequila, rum contain a huge number of ingredients, of which ethyl alcohol makes up about 40%. Everything else is impurities that create the aroma and bouquet of taste. Vodka is simply ethanol, which can be called a weapon of slow genocide.
You can get alcoholism from anything: from wine, from beer, and from the same whiskey. It's all about culture and human self-discipline.
But the fastest and most effective way to develop dependence is from drinking pure alcohol.
Alcoholism in the CIS countries is a real social problem; the percentage of patients here is much higher than in Europe, although Europeans drink no less. But abroad they drink vodka in cocktails, and Russians drink diluted alcohol in glasses.
Erkin Tuzmukhamedov always ends his meetings and conversations with the traditional “alcoholic” wish: “Take care of your liver!”
Not so long ago, even in the capital of Russia, the Dewar's Whiskey Academy opened its doors - albeit for a short time. It was about this academy - and about whiskey in general - that the man who understands whiskey perhaps better than anyone in Russia, Erkin Tuzmukhamedov, told reporters .
The recipe for making heather honey, as the poet once told us, was forgotten a long time ago; With Scotch whiskey things are much better. Not so long ago, even in the capital of Russia, the Dewar's Whiskey Academy opened its doors - albeit for a short time. It was about this academy - and about whiskey in general - that the man who understands whiskey perhaps better than anyone in Russia, Erkin Tuzmukhamedov, told reporters .
Erkin became interested in whiskey at a relatively young age - his father had a surprisingly decent collection of elite alcohol for Soviet Russia, and the boy sometimes visited her. Even then, of all alcoholic drinks, whiskey appealed to him most. Tuzmukhamedov did not immediately contact Dewar's; for a long time he preferred to work for himself. While working on his next work on whiskey, Erkin came across a book by Tommy Dewar (Thomas Robert Dewar), the founder of the legendary company. Dewar turned out to be an excellent writer and in the highest degree interesting person; it was thanks to this book that Tuzmukhamedov became interested in the activities of the company. After some time, Erkin was offered to become the Russian ambassador of whiskey - and Tuzmukhamedov willingly agreed.
Academy "Dewar"s" is a unique phenomenon in
in many ways. Firstly, educational projects about Scotch whiskey are not found on every corner; No one had ever dared to dream of an event of such magnitude before. A lot of resources have been spent on the academy. Educational films, for example, are shown on huge screens with a 270-degree view, illuminated by 6 projectors at once; the effect of presence is simply incredible. Of course, the matter is not limited to films alone - there are also live lecturers at the academy; among them there are professionals of the highest level - like the vice-president of the Russian bartenders association Denis Temny.
Interest in the project turned out to be quite uneven - a lot of guests came to the opening, but then there was a certain lull. It did not last, however, for long - very soon rumors about how interesting it was within the walls of the Dewar's Academy spread throughout the capital. Interest was fueled by the fact that the academy does not limit itself to theory alone - students are allowed to taste several exquisite varieties of Scotch whiskey and even allow you to try yourself as a master blender.
In general, "Dewar's", despite all its popularity, is by no means the only
a leading supplier of Scotch whiskey – in Scotland alone the number of distilleries is estimated to be in the triple digits. Of course, not all of these distilleries can boast of a truly high quality of the drink they produce, but even after screening, the selection remains very solid. Trying all the existing varieties will require a lot of time - and even more money, because a number of whiskeys can literally lead to a heart attack at their price. However, aimless tasting for the sake of tasting is an activity that to some extent insults the venerable drink; You need to drink whiskey correctly. Everything matters - right down to the ambient temperature; real whiskey is valuable primarily for its aroma, which at low temperatures leaves sadly little of it. For the same reason, a real gourmet never drinks whiskey with ice - and there’s nothing even to say about whiskey and cola. Tasting truly high-quality whiskey can be hampered even by the familiar smell - Tuzmukhamedov strongly recommends trying drinks exclusively outside the city, at the maximum distance from the mixture of smoke, smog and soot, which, by an unfortunate misunderstanding, is considered fresh air in Russian cities
Today we will talk about whiskey and others noble drinks. With whom? My interlocutor - Erkina Tuzmukhamedova– is considered one of the world's best experts on spirits and tobacco. Many people know Erkin as a rock journalist, the first host of the MuzOboz television program, a Beatlemaniac and the author of several books about whiskey. He is also a whiskey ambassador for the Whiskey Live Moscow festival and an ambassador for Cognac (BNIC, Interprofessional Cognac Bureau), Sherry Educator (Jerez Wine Supervisory Board).
Could a conversation with such a person have been predictably calm? Probably not. And this is good.
Let's start with a question that you've probably been asked many times already. Please tell us about how to drink whiskey correctly?
Not so long ago, in clubs and bars in Britain, it was fashionable to drip vodka from a pipette onto the mucous membrane, under the eyelid - this led to terrible complications and even loss of vision. Citizens for whom the repertoire of “Radio Chanson” and individual masterpieces like “Vladimir Central” are autobiographical know that in “places not so remote” there is a practice of oral consumption of intoxicating drinks. For noble drinks, neither one nor the other method is acceptable. Neither the rectum nor the mucous membrane of the eyelid has either taste buds to detect taste or sensitive epithelium to detect aroma. Perhaps diluted alcohol (vodka) or "jaguar" can be administered as an enema into the rectum.
There is a special technological hole in the head, a neck, into which solid products are stuffed and all kinds of liquids, including whiskey, are poured.
Well, but seriously, it is advisable to drink good, noble drinks in their pure form, served in the right tasting glass, but “democratic” whiskey, which is sometimes scary to put your nose near, is impossible to drink except with ice and cola. But a person in good mental health would not bring such whiskey to his mouth. Ice is undesirable because it freezes the volatile fractions that make up the bouquet of the drink - and we get most of the pleasure from the drink from the divine aroma.
But the client is always right. The famous “Idiot” cocktail, which you will not find on the menu of any restaurant, but which all sommeliers and bartenders know about, appeared, according to one version, in the Pushkin cafe. A fat bald daddy with a wallet under his arm and a half-pound acrobat on a gold chain came with a blonde whose lower limbs began at the level of his bald head. The man ordered the most expensive drink on the menu - The Macallan Lalique. The companion ordered the same thing, but accused the waiter of illiteracy and incompetence when he did not bring her Coca-Cola and ice. No matter how pretentious and perverted it may sound, similar situations happen in all restaurants almost every day. But the manufacturer, in general, doesn’t care – as long as they buy and drink.
What are the best rules to follow when drinking whiskey?
Scotch evaluation begins with visual analysis. Shake the drink in a glass and watch how “legs” or “tears” form, that is, drops that flow down the walls. Depending on the density and strength of the drink, they behave differently. This alone can give a lot of information to an experienced taster.
Next, dip your nose into the glass. Just not deep at first, so as not to burn the mucous membrane. Get away from the hustle and bustle. This will help you to understand the drink more deeply - to hear the subtle nuances of the aroma. Only then, take a small sip, paying attention to how the bouquet of the drink unfolds.
After this, you can add some good water, with a small amount of salts, and see how the whiskey “accepts” the water. The aroma will change - when the alcohol level decreases, the aroma of a good whiskey will open, while a mediocre one will simply “disintegrate”.
In what environment is the taste of whiskey most revealed? In what interior? What time?
To enjoy anything, you must be relaxed and ready to enjoy it. A state of nervousness is unacceptable - only excitement from the anticipation of meeting with a magical drink is acceptable. The taste of the drink is maximized at room temperature with a small addition of water - not soda, regular, soft spring water.
The interior – if a professional acquaintance, tasting, then, of course, is as bright and ascetic as possible. If you share the pleasure with a group of friends who can appreciate the drink, then a little luxury will not hurt. The optimal time for tasting is in the morning, from 9 to 12 am, when the receptors are open and you can appreciate the object of desire as much as possible. But, as popular wisdom says: if you drink in the morning, you are free all day. For social drinking, of course, evening.
How do quality whiskey and music go together? What music do you personally prefer to enjoy this drink with?
Whiskey, cognac - any high-quality aged drink is a work of art. It is not without reason that many compare cognac and whiskey with music. The choice of musical accompaniment depends on the whiskey. We periodically work with People's Artist Levon Sarkisovich Oganezov. I talk about drinks, and Lyovochka plays music that he thinks suits this drink and tells me various funny things. So - for example, under Lagavulin I would put fugues or violin sonatas by Bach, under good Speysides - Linkwood, Mortlach, Cardhu - I would maybe put Mozart, or light unobtrusive jazz - for example, George Benson. Vocal acrobat Bobby McFerrin would also be a good choice. I associate Bourbons and Tennessee only with country music played by Johnny Cash, Waylon Jennings, Willie Nelson. There are varieties that perfectly match jazz. For example, some noble bourbons. And the noise accompaniment for whiskey and cola is similar to the consumption of drinks like “Jaguar”, “Baltika 9” - the repertoire of “Russian Radio” and “Chanson” with all sorts of Timati and other sausages.
Is whiskey a lifestyle item? How would you describe such a style, such a philosophy of life?
I think only the so-called “hipsters” and regulars of gay clubs (is this about the same audience? 🙂) think about lifestyle. There are brands that are "style". So that everyone can see that you have glasses from a certain company on your nose, boots and a suit from this and that, and on the table there is a certain brand of drink that is considered stylish in this environment. People who understand something, as a rule, do not boast about it.
And the philosophy of life is completely diverse. This includes Sir Winston Churchill, who never lived a day without a few glasses of whiskey. This includes Keith Richards, who until the 80s never appeared on stage without a bottle of his favorite whiskey, Tennessee Jack. Not very demanding? But for Keith Richards, this drink warmed his soul.
Does whiskey help you think? I once heard that whiskey is the drink of sages, aesthetes and gourmets.
This phrase can be applied to any of the noble drinks. Balzac spoke this way about cognac, Omar Khayyam about wine, Sir Winston about whiskey.
What sorts or brands of whiskey do you like best? Can you recommend anything?
It’s difficult to list – there’s a sea of them. There are more than a hundred factories in Scotland, at least a quarter are excellent. There are some good blends. In Ireland, however, I can count decent whiskeys on the fingers of one hand - Redbreast 15 years, Connemara, Bushmills 21 years, Tyrconnell. Japan has the most beautiful whiskey. There are excellent bourbons in the USA.
What can you tell about a person by watching him drink whiskey?
I am not a psychologist or physiognomist. But, by the way a person chooses a drink, chooses a glassware, by the manipulations before bringing it to his lips and taking a sip (shake, look at the “legs,” enjoy the aroma), it is immediately clear whether it makes sense to offer a person a good drink or whether it is enough for him to put a bottle of an ordinary mass-produced drink, such as the “proletarian” Red Label or the “stylish” Chivas Regal with the inevitable cola and ice.
This does not mean that the person is not very good in some way. It’s just that this part of the culture doesn’t interest him and doesn’t touch the strings of his soul. This doesn't mean that these drinks aren't good in some way: each is a global leader in its category. Among those who listen to the “blatnyak” that pours out in dirty slop from most radio stations in the country, there are mostly good people. It’s just that mom didn’t take them to the conservatory as children, and dad passed by The Beatles and Led Zeppelin, not to mention Frank Zappa, Coltrane, Miles Davis and other great musicians of our time. And both of these drinks have a long and worthy history. They are revered by millions all over the planet. But you won’t see them in any whiskey club. And, if you admit your liking for them, you will most likely be looked at askance (if you are allowed into this community at all).
And the final question is not about whiskey. You are also known as a repeated participant in the World Slow Pipe Smoking Championships. Why the tube? And why "slow smoking"?
Yes, I have been going to world championships since 1998. I am vice-president of the Russian Association of Pipe Clubs. A good pipe is a true work of art. Especially stuffed with good tobacco. Enjoying it is akin to enjoying a good drink, and together it is divine! Freud said that as soon as you pick up a pipe, you become a philosopher. The tube does not tolerate fuss. Once, on the set of a television program dedicated to pipes, in which I was sitting next to the venerable Arkady Mikhailovich Arkanov, he told the TV presenter something like the following: “ Just imagine - I smoke pipes and I have a collection of good pipes. I leave my son a whole inheritance. And if I smoke cigarettes, will I leave him some bulls?"
But, by the way, I also really admire cigars and have visited more than one manufactory in many countries where cigars are made. But my favorites are Cuba, Brazil and Nicaragua.
Belarusians are starting to fight against blended swill. The names Jim and Jack are no longer relevant when it comes to whiskey: single malts have ruled the world for 50 years. A leading expert from Russia, who wrote eight books about whiskey, was invited to Minsk for education. Sasha Romanova tried what Erkin Tuzmukhamedov announced and talked with him about what The Beatles drank, whether stones can be used for whiskey, who is cooler: the Scots or the Irish, and finally, when Belarusians, hooked on the old glamorous Chivas, will try single malts varieties.
How single malt whiskey came to Belarus
The tasting with Erkin began with the phrase: “A person who drinks White Horse or Chivas Regal should be ashamed to admit it.” The action took place in the country restaurant "Porechye", where a chain of Minsk stores "Corkscrew" hosted a presentation of single malt whiskey. The expert himself, Erkin Tuzmukhamedov, is known as a rock journalist, the first host of the television program “Muzoboz”, and a professional Beatlemaniac. He teaches sommeliers at schools, gives lectures on whiskey, is the Russian ambassador of the Dewar's brand and is a very sharp-tongued connoisseur of strong drinks. With his suggestion, Belarusians started with Auchentoshan, tried Hazelburn and smoothly switched to hard Ardbeg. One of the first questions I wanted to ask Erkin personally: if all this splendor is sold in stores, why do so many people buy blended whiskey like Jim Beam?
KYKY: Maybe people buy Jim Beam because it simply tastes better to them? Isn't its taste adapted to most people?
Erkin: In this case you are wrong. If you blindly pour a few glasses for a person and don't tell them which label is which, they will choose single malt whiskey and be shocked when they see the bottles. Most malt whiskeys are honest products, but they have a very tiny production volume. Let's say 100 thousand liters per year. And some Johnnie Walker has sales of 19 million 9-liter boxes.
It is much more convenient to advertise a mass product of average quality all over the world than to deal with 700 thousand bottles of super elite Ardbeg per year (and Ardbeg is a star, let’s say so). 700 thousand per year versus the same 5 million cases of 9-liter Chivas Regal boxes - but there a high share of advertising is already included in the cost of the product, so you cover it. This is not only with whiskey. Same with champagne and Louis Vuitton bags. Tell me, is Louis Vuitton a good bag?
KYKY: I suspect the real Vuitton is worth the money.
Erkin: There are many more beautiful, comfortable and practical bags.
KYKY: Do you think it’s possible to compare designer brands and some Zara with single malt and blended whiskey?
Erkin: About Yes. As a rule, blends are Zara. But if we talk about expensive clothes, then there are expensive pop clothes, and then there are shoes that are sewn by hand, and shirts that are made to order. This will be single malt whiskey.
KYKY: Which malt whiskeys are the most pop?
Erkin: Glenfiddich, Glenlivet and Macallan are the three largest factories. "Glenfiddich" costs a little less, and "Macallan" is the most major. There is an interesting situation there: Glenfiddich sales exceed a million 9-liter cases, but Macallan, which sells 700 thousand cases a year, makes more profit because the cost per bottle is higher.
At the tasting, Erkin Tuzmukhamedov told a story about the Pushkin restaurant in Moscow and a beautiful lady who ordered Macallan for a thousand dollars, and when the waiter brought it, she attacked with complaints: “Man, weren’t you taught good manners? Where is the ice, where is the cola? Single malt whiskey is so self-sufficient that diluting it with cola is blasphemy. The lightest of the malts is Auchentoshan whiskey, it is made at a factory in Glasgow, which is owned by the Japanese. From the same light series - Huzelburn with a nutty aftertaste and Macallan, the right malt varieties. Stronger drinks are made, for example, on the Scottish island of Islay. This is Ardbeg peated whiskey, the taste of which combines citrus, lemon and smoke.
In Belarus, people started talking about single malt whiskey about a year ago: single malt brands began to appear in bars. But until recently, in order to buy all this in a liquor store in Minsk, you had to try hard. At the event, I found the head of the marketing department of the Shtopor chain of stores, Alexander Serdyuk. The question was: how many varieties can you count in Minsk if you deliberately go around the sales points? Alexander said the following: “I think if you don’t count the Japanese, then you can find 25 species. Not only we import, but also other companies. Since the quota for whiskey decreases every year, and there is competition, companies deliberately began to develop exclusive brands rather than commercial ones.” But let's return to Erkin Tuzmukhamedov.
KYKY: Erkin, is whiskey divided into whiskey for girls and whiskey for boys?
Erkin: I have a friend who worked in a symphony orchestra. She couldn't live without Ardbeg or Lagavulin, a smoky whiskey that girls generally don't like. Interesting thing: the production of smoky whiskey Laphroaig for 50 years was owned by three women - two sisters and their mother owned the distillery. That is, the choice of whiskey in no way depends on the gender of the person. It depends on the development of taste, sophistication and, if you like, perversity.
For many, Ardbeg whiskey is a perversion: sleepers, creazote, tarpaulin boots. There are women who like it. And there are boys who think that this is, oh, terrible and disgusting.
KYKY: Can we divide it into seasons: summer, winter? Maybe “Laphroaig” is winter, “Ahentoshn” is summer?
Erkin: I’m not ready to say that whiskey is a winter drink, it’s not the vodka you drink. Vodka is not a summer drink at all, because it melts your brains in the heat and makes you soggy. You drink whiskey in small sips in the summer, and I don’t know why, but it invigorates you, and it doesn’t make you a slob. In general, in the summer, of course, it is easier to drink light drinks: prosecco, champagne, daiquiri. But it depends on what kind of food you choose. If smoked, cooked over an open fire, Ardbeg works very well.
Who is cooler: the Scots or the Irish?
Saint Patrick of Ireland
According to Erkin Tuzmukhamedov, the best single malt whiskeys come from a small nation. There are only 5 million Scots, and they are the ones who make proper single malt whiskey in casks from three components: water, yeast and grain. American blended brands purchase raw materials from Scottish factories and simply mix them without having their own production facilities. Meanwhile, true whiskey lovers are divided into those who prefer the Scottish product and those who prefer the Irish. As a fan of the latter nation, I couldn’t help but get involved in a dialogue with Erkin about this.
KYKY: Can the Irish make cool whiskey?
Erkin: Of course they can. The dispute between the Irish and the Scots is quite stupid, because they are one group of peoples - both are Celts. They have the same character and mentality. Both of them supply beer and whiskey normally.
They speak the same language, and the difference between Irish and Scottish Celtic is less noticeable than between Belarusian and Russian. This is approximately like the conversation between Moscow and St. Petersburg: in Moscow they pee in the entrance, and in St. Petersburg - in the front door. The Scots are, of course, calmer than the Irish, whose country has been torn along religious lines for many years, and the war between Catholics and Protestants continues to this day.
The Irish claim that St. Patrick gave them whiskey. If there was such a character, then he lived and worked in the fifth century AD. In Europe, distillation was discovered in the 11th–12th centuries, which means there is at least a 500–600 year difference between the time when St. Patrick lived and the time when whiskey began to be made. In addition, the first written mention of whiskey in history belongs to a Scottish source. But, again, how can we talk about a fundamental difference between such close islands? There is an island of Islay in Scotland, which is visible from Ireland in good weather. There are 30 km between them by sea - in principle, even an experienced swimmer can overcome this distance.
KYKY: What's the coolest Irish whiskey? I know Jameson is made in Ireland, but at the presentation you said, and I quote, Jameson is a great way for people who want to stop drinking water."
Erkin: The problem with Jameson is the following. The distillery itself was founded, by the way, by the Scotsman John Jameson in 1780 in Dublin, but now only the whiskey museum remains there, and Jameson itself is made in the south of Ireland in the city of Cork. Jameson was a malt whiskey until 1775, it was made from sprouted barley using traditional technology, and now it is a blended whiskey, the same as Johnnie Walker or Ballantine's. It's just that in the 18th century, Ireland was a closed society, a small island with no one did not trade, and the population of several million people simply did not drink the whiskey that was being produced. They decided to close all the factories and build, instead of three old ones in Dublin and several more in other parts of Ireland, a new Jameson distillery in the city of Cork. absolutely correct nonsense happened with Irish whiskey.
KYKY: Which factories did you visit and what is the process like there? What is the main feeling?
Erkin: There are only three operating factories in Ireland, and I visited all of them. There are more than 100 factories in Scotland, I was at 35. When I visited the first factory, and this was in some nineties, of course, I almost crap myself with happiness. Now you look: everywhere the process is approximately the same. Beer is made from sprouted grains and then distilled. But no matter how many times I go to Scotland, I always learn new nuances. In general, the climate in Scotland is harsh. Roughly speaking, when you come in the summer, somewhere on the island of Orkney there’s just a squall and it can start to snow. There is no point in going there without a good warm jacket.
KYKY: There are people in Belarus who dream of brewing their own single malt whiskey. If they succeeded, would it be interesting? Is our climate suitable? I know that you yourself brew whiskey in Russia.
Erkin: You can make whiskey in Belarus - what are the problems? You just need to ask permission from the leader of the country if he agrees. So what's the difference? I cook everything myself. Whiskey, of course, is more difficult to make than fruit distillates: you can’t get away from the grain. If you have already soaked it, you must ensure that it germinates. Then dry it, figure out how to grind it. You set the fruits and you can forget about them for a while. I cook gooseberries, red rowan, make Calvados from apples - whatever happens in the harvest. Most often gooseberries, because there are more of them. Rowan berries and apples are difficult to squeeze out, and plums are also thick and impossible to strain. When I make whiskey, I honestly just distill the finished beer or buy Finnish wort in 20 liter cans. It may not be as tasty, but sprouting grains yourself is difficult.
What do vodka and heroin have in common?
Whiskey enthusiasts invariably disdain vodka. Erkin drew a very good parallel at the seminar, which popularly explains why. “I have a Russian friend who was asked what vodka smells like, he said: “an injection in the ass,” Erkin began. “The danger from vodka is that it is easier for the body to cope with it. It's like refined heroin. Let's draw an analogy with opiates - for thousands of years, until the mid-50s of the last century, poppy straw was considered a remedy for the stomach. As soon as pure heroin was isolated, the fight against drugs began immediately. The body gets used to heroin much faster than to poppy. It’s the same with vodka - it’s pure heroin.”
KYKY: Erkin, you are the author of eight books about spirits. Their names are interesting. “Whiskey of the world”, “Scotch whiskey”, “Whiskey. Guide”, “Malt Kitchen”, which was included in the shortlist of the “Gourmet” culinary award. And then suddenly a bestseller - “Booze”. Why is it called that?
Erkin: Booze is an interesting word. If we take the pre-revolutionary dictionaries of Dahl and Brockhaus, then the word “booze” comes from “thumping an oar on the water.” Nowadays thump is used in a different meaning, and the etymology is not clear. In fact, most drinks sold in stores are non-tasting - not something you would enjoy with someone you'd want to spend the evening with. It's just booze that you binge on on a Friday night because you have nothing better to do. And the book “Booze” is about this. Many of my friends who have school-going children simply give them this book to read as a textbook. Why can't you drink Coca-Cola? Still, they drink whiskey and cola, the same students, for example, or vocational school students. Moreover, the most important poison in the Whiskey-Cola cocktail is not whiskey, but cola.
By the way, the Beatles are to blame for the fact that Europe started drinking whiskey and cola. They literally took America by storm in 1966, when there was no Coca-Cola in Europe. This is an American poison, but they liked it so much that they even posed in photographs with bottles of cola.
KYKY: What kind of alcohol did The Beatles drink? As a Beatlemaniac, you should know.John Lennon
Erkin: Judging by the fact that Paul McCartney has a summer residence in Scotland, and the staff of Springbell Distillery played on the recording of one of his songs, it is absolutely obvious that Paul McCartney drank whiskey. It is not known what brands were available in the 60s because nothing like Ardbeg was produced. There were Johnny Walker, Bell's - and the musicians drank mostly this. Ringo Star suffered most from alcohol, of course. Paul McCartney was restrained and picky, he still drinks good wine.
Ozzy Osbourne
Harrison quit drinking alcohol a long time ago because he has been gone for 13 years. John Lennon suffered more from drug addiction. If Lennon hadn't been killed by that asshole Mark Chapman, he would now look a lot like Ozzy Osbourne. There would be Ozzy, Lennon and Keith Richards - three unique characters in rock and roll who have tried everything they can sniff, swallow and inject.
KYKY: You said in one interview that whiskey cannot be chilled or mixed. But there is such a thing as whiskey stones. Can they be used?
Erkin: This is bullshit, really. The literal translation of on the rocks is whiskey on the rocks: you throw ice cubes into the whiskey and they knock on the glass. But your ice dissolves quite quickly, especially when it’s hot, and dilutes the drink, which completely changes the taste. That’s why they came up with the idea of freezing pebbles that cool the whiskey without diluting the drink. But the stones warm up quickly enough, and besides: take any pebble - it always has a taste. Stopudovo, any stone is porous, and it will be difficult to wash it after Ardbeg. Throwing rocks at Chivas Regal is fine, but quality drinks are best drunk at room temperature so you can feel the evaporation. If you refrigerate single malt whiskey, you're just killing that evaporation.
KYKY: Would you like to live in Scotland and drink this wonderful whiskey? If so, why don't you live in Scotland?
Erkin: Hmm, first of all, I was born and raised in Moscow. You get used to this crazy rhythm and pace - after that, moving to a village, and Scotland is a village, is very difficult. Of course, I might like to move in my old age, but, on the other hand, I definitely understand that this is not the climate in which I would like to live. When you go out in the morning, you should wear something light, take something warm and something from the rain - all the seasons change in a day. It's hard. Their drink is just delicious.
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