Rules for installation in a wooden house. Wiring in a wooden house - design, installation and basic safety requirements (120 photos). Selection of the cable section and its connection

How to make safe electrical wiring in a wooden house?

The most popular material for the construction of country houses was and remains wood. Which, for all its many advantages, has one serious drawback - it is, as firefighters say, "combustible material."

Fire statistics show that more than half of the fires in wooden houses are due to faulty electrical wiring. In practice, the main cause of malfunctions and the subsequent short circuit is most often a violation of the integrity of the wire insulation in the wiring. As a rule, this happens either due to an increased load on the wires or due to mechanical damage to the insulation.

Why is this happening?

Most homegrown "jacks of all trades", in order to save time, effort and money, lay concealed wiring on wooden bases, boldly hiding it behind the ceiling sheathing, under the wall cladding, behind the plinth, into the voids of the ceilings and explaining to the “unreasonable” client that this is exactly what should be done.

Remember! Mount hidden electrical wiring in wooden houses using corrugated PVC pipe, plastic box IT IS FORBIDDEN!

Why?

Actually, there are several reasons. Below we will consider the two most typical situations that arise during the operation of electrical wiring in a wooden house.

Firstly. In the process of laying the cable, an electrician may slightly damage the insulation of the wires, and the control electrical measurements may not fix the damage.

However, when all the necessary electrical equipment is connected, the electrical wiring begins to function in the maximum load mode. Naturally, such operation, which causes increased heating of the cable or wire, inevitably weakens the insulation, which causes a short circuit in the wiring.

Sufficiently thin walls of plastic pipes and PVC boxes from are unable to withstand the circuit without burning out, therefore, the circuit, alas, will inevitably lead to a fire.

Secondly. Hidden electrical wiring using a corrugated pipe or PVC box, laid in the voids of wooden walls, ceilings and floors, is an object of increased attention from rodents that are not uncommon in wooden houses, seeking to “try the teeth” on the details of your communications.

For mice, and even more so for rats, it will not be difficult to gnaw through a fairly thin PVC pipe or box, exposing the strands of wires, which results in a short circuit in hidden electrical wiring.

The situation is aggravated by the fact that over time, a huge amount of wood dust accumulates in the voids of the walls and ceilings of wooden houses. As a result - the slightest spark leads to ignition. The worst thing is that it is almost impossible to immediately determine the place of fire and eliminate it, since the combustion process that occurs BEHIND walls and ceilings is hidden from view. Therefore, even flooding everything around with water and foam, you still cannot quickly put out the fire.


Can these problems be avoided?

At first glance, if you lay electrical wiring in a wooden house in accordance with the requirements of SNiP, PES, there will be no problems. However, in reality, not everything is so simple. First of all, because the requirements of the PUE regarding the installation of electrical wiring in wooden buildings are extremely stringent. By the way, it is the rigidity of the standards that most often forces "home-grown" electricians to violate them.

Nevertheless, laying fireproof electrical wiring in a wooden house is a realistic event, and you can choose which wiring to use.

The table below shows the types of electrical wiring and methods for laying wires and cables according to fire safety conditions.

Let us consider in more detail all types of fireproof electrical wiring in a wooden house.

Concealed wiring

Although most competent sources on the subject do not recommend installation of hidden wiring on combustible, in our case, wooden structures, however, with subject to compliance with fire safety requirements and the absence of problems with finances, such wiring can be done.

Below we provide a regulatory document (PES-6) in its part regarding the laying of hidden wiring indoors.

In fact, the methods of fireproof laying of hidden wiring in a wooden house just two.

One of them is the laying of hidden electrical wiring using metal sleeve (pipe). The main advantage of this method is that in the event of a fire metal pipe will protect adjacent structures from fire.

When using this wiring method, you will need to comply with several strict conditions: to protect the pipe walls from corrosion, it must be painted or galvanized from the inside. To protect the cable insulation from sharp edges resulting from cutting pipes, special plastic plugs must be put on their ends. Plus, for such wiring, you will need to drill recesses in the thickness of the walls in the form of channels, into which, in fact, metal pipes are then laid.

The best option for this wiring option is copper pipes. Due to the fact that copper pipes bend quite easily and can be laid without special tools, wiring is at least somewhat simplified. However, you will have to pay a high, literally, price for simplicity and convenience - copper pipes are very expensive.

In accordance with GOST R 50571.15-97 (IEC 364 5 52 93): clause 522.3.2, pipes should be laid with a slight slope to allow condensate to flow out. But be prepared for the fact that in practice it is extremely difficult, if not impossible, to check the quality of the installation of metal pipes, the same angle of inclination or the tightness of the joints.

The second way to lay hidden electrical wiring in a wooden building is on a layer of plaster (basting) at least 10 mm thick on all sides.

Way seems to be simple, but when using it, the question arises: how to comply with the PES standards regarding the replacement of electrical wiring. Alternatively, it can be monolithic in plaster, having previously packed it in a corrugation. Formally, of course, the PES standards will be observed, but in fact it will be impossible to pull the hard wire.

Moreover, no specialist will be able to predict how the plaster will behave on wooden surfaces after a while. Will there be cracks? Will she start to fall off? Not to mention that on beautiful wooden surfaces, a thick layer of cement mortar will look at least strange.

It should be emphasized that both of these methods are quite costly in terms of funds, efforts, and time. Plus, they require planning electrical wiring at the construction stage.

exposed wiring

- Wiring in electrical corrugated pipe

This method involves pulling the cable into a flexible corrugated pipe made of special plastic that does not support combustion. Two or more cables can be placed in one pipe.

The disadvantages of this method include, first of all, its unaesthetic - you are unlikely to like the prospect of "decorating" your house with several rows of corrugated tubes. Given the number of electrical appliances in a modern house, there can be 5-7 such rows! In addition, since it is almost impossible to lay a corrugated pipe with a cable stretched into it evenly, “on a string”, all its bends and sagging will also not add charm to your home.

Another disadvantage: the corrugated pipe is an excellent "dust collector", from which it is very difficult to remove the accumulated dust.

- Wiring in electrical boxes (cable channels)

With this method, the cable is laid in flame-retardant plastic and closed with snap-on covers.

The main problem when using this method is associated with the inevitable shrinkage of a wooden house. On average, it is 1 cm per 1 m of the height of the house, and these values ​​​​are given for houses made of high-quality glued laminated timber, the shrinkage of which is minimal. In practice, this means that a shrinkage of three centimeters (for a typical two-story house) will squeeze all the boxes, the covers will fly off, and the boxes themselves will crack. As a result, the wiring will have to be redone!

Secondly, in order to accurately and evenly install plastic boxes, a certain skill and dexterity will be required. Add problems with fittings here - alas, manufacturers offer a rather meager assortment of turns, corners, plugs, joints, without which it is almost impossible to accurately install cable channels.

Another significant drawback of wiring in cable channels is its boring, office look.

The advantages of this method include its low cost, minimal labor costs and the ability to easily make any changes in the future.

- Open cable wiring

Lastly, we will consider the most optimal of all methods of laying electrical wiring in a wooden house - wiring with an open cable.

Naturally, when using an unprotected open cable, it is also not necessary to talk about the aesthetics of the room. Not only does the cable itself in conventional insulation (for example, the most common PUNP) look rather dull, but under it it will also be necessary to install an asbestos or metal gasket protruding from all sides by at least 10 cm.

However, there is another way. This so-called retro wiring on insulators. Its main advantage is the possibility compliance with all necessary safety requirements, plus, original, extremely popular lately interior design in retro style.

You will learn more about the installation of such wiring in our next article.

LLC "Salvador"

Modern life is unimaginable without electricity. Electrical installation in a private country house requires special attention, since it requires increased security. For those who build their own house and want to know what step-by-step electrical wiring in a wooden house is with their own hands, you should follow the rules very carefully.

Drafting a project

Proper design and installation of electrical wiring depends on the total capacity of all available equipment and household appliances.

The project is divided into several stages:


In order to successfully carry out the installation of electrical wiring, it is necessary to calculate all electrical appliances, their maximum power, as well as the total amount of loads for using the introductory auto switch. This is the only way to carry out the wiring correctly.

Cable, its types and equipment for installation

In a private wooden house, open wiring is mainly used, less often hidden wiring. The cable is laid along the walls and ceiling and mounted in protective devices.



Scheme for separating electrical wiring into different circuits

The most common type of protection is plastic boxes, but there are other solutions, such as electrical skirting boards, metal and corrugated pipes. Open placement on special insulators is also common.

Aluminum cable can only be used in a brick house!

The copper cable is mainly used, which is characterized by low cost and reliable insulation. If wiring is done in a brick house, then a good alternative to a copper cable is an aluminum cable.

However, in a private wooden house, electrical wiring using aluminum is not recommended for fire safety reasons, especially if it is hidden wiring. Sockets and switches are selected based on their specification. The current strength and type of installation of this equipment are taken into account.

Grounding is an integral part of the connection process! To do this, use a three-core cable equipped with a ground wire.



An example of the layout of electrical wiring on a house plan

In general, the list of necessary material for successful electrical wiring in a private house looks like this:

  • cable;
  • protective devices;
  • electricity meter;
  • sockets;
  • switches;
  • shield;
  • parts for fasteners;
  • indicators;
  • junction boxes;
  • various tools for work (screwdrivers, pliers, pliers, drill, grinder, electrical tape, mounting knives, terminal blocks).

Thanks to these devices, open wiring in a private wooden house will come true very quickly and correctly.



Correct wiring diagram

Introductory auto switch, its connection, installation of the switchboard and electric meter

The installation of an introductory auto switch, as a rule, is made after the counter. Then, a residual current device and an introductory machine are installed in the switchboard. Next, you need to ground the shield and make the installation, relying on the diagram.



Diagram of the circuit breaker device

The choice of the input cable is made from the power limit of all available electrical equipment. The function of the introductory circuit breaker is to back up group machines and de-energize the house in case of malfunctions in the wiring.

Wiring in the house also depends on the phase of the network. For this, one-, two- or three-pole circuit breakers are used. It's the same with electricity meters. They are of two types: single and three-phase. In turn, three-phase meters are divided into four types of inclusion: direct, indirect and semi-indirect.

The circuit breaker is mounted immediately after the installation of the electricity meter.

There is also a reactive energy meter. The original schema must contain this information. The electricity meter is installed in a special shield. In a private house, it is usually located at a height of 1.5-1.7 m for more convenient access.



Classification of circuit breakers

It is advisable to determine the date of manufacture of the meter, which should not be older than one or two years (for a one- or three-phase meter, respectively). It is also recommended to have a release placed in a special sealed case. Such wiring will make it possible to completely disconnect the equipment from the network.

Laying and cabling

When using cable channels made of self-extinguishing plastic, it is necessary to correctly divide the cable into certain parts, focusing on the desired length. It will be useful to make a margin of 15-20 centimeters. The laid cable is fixed on the walls and ceiling.

For fasteners, self-tapping screws are used, the distance between which is approximately 50 centimeters. Wired connections are made in junction boxes using terminal blocks and adapters. If twists are present, they must be soldered. For insulation, tape or heat shrink is used.



Wiring diagram with junction box

Next, the cable is routed and wiring is carried out to switches, sockets and machines, focusing on the color differentiation of the wires. If the walls are prepared for full sheathing for the sake of aesthetics, then hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house is laid in metal or corrugated pipes.

For this, cable routes with strobes are prepared. Because of the wall cladding, the wiring of distribution boxes are installed in such a way that access to them is as convenient as possible.

To exclude the possibility of damage, the insulation test is carried out while pulling the cables through the pipes. For the installation of cables, switches and sockets, various metal sleeves are used.

Grounding installation

Wiring, especially if it is hidden wiring, involves the elimination of dangerous situations associated with a short circuit or open phase, so it is absolutely necessary to make wiring with grounding.

To do this, you need four pins about three meters long and connecting parts made of metal pipes or fittings. The contour of the grounding device most often appears in the form of a square.

Grounding scheme

First, a trench is dug, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwhich is usually one square meter.



Comparative table of the main types of cables

The pins are driven into the ground to a depth of 30-50 centimeters, and by means of electric welding they are interconnected by metal segments. The conductor required for grounding is fixed in the corner with a drill, nut and bolt. It is the link between the switchboard and the ground bus.

In turn, insulated and grounding cable cores are attached to it. After all these steps, the installation of electrical wiring associated with grounding can be considered complete, so the trench is simply buried in the ground.

Ground pins must not be corroded, otherwise it will prevent current from entering the ground.

To increase the life of this design, it is best to cover the pins with paint or use stainless steel materials, since rust prevents electricity from being released into the ground. In order to increase safety, a residual current device (RCD) is used. It protects a person in case of current leakage or damaged insulation.



Power and lighting wires must be connected separately

Sockets and lighting equipment

In places marked for mounting switches and sockets, it is necessary to cut out sockets for installing special metal boxes. Installation technology includes a strong connection of cables and boxes.

Exposed wiring is safer

One of the main rules that involves the installation of electrical wiring: all elements must be in reliable contact with each other. The best fastening methods are welding or soldering. This option is not subject to corrosion, mechanical stress and provides strong and durable contact.

In addition, the installation of electrical wiring involves the use of copper pipes. If copper products are used, then their ends are flared. In the case of steel pipes, nuts are used that are screwed onto specially cut threads. Metal boxes must have an appropriate protection class to prevent water and dust from entering the box.

System health check

There are several options for checking the work performed on electrical wiring in a private house. You can independently check the completed wiring using a special indicator. If the electrician in a wooden house is installed correctly, then it will show the circuit in closed areas.



An example of a typical wiring diagram in a private house

The insulation resistance can be tested with a megger. Another way to check is to call specialists from the electrical laboratory for complex measurement. In case of successful completion of the tests, a protocol is issued in private, which is necessary for sealing the electric meter and reporting to the organization supplying electricity.

The scheme, according to which the entire wiring installation was carried out, is placed on the wall of the switchboard. In case of any malfunctions, this will help determine the source of the problems.

Video

You can watch a video on how to properly install hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house.

Electrical wiring in a wooden house is an important aspect in construction. Despite the fact that the wood that is used to build houses and cottages is treated with a variety of impregnations to increase fire resistance, this material still remains vulnerable. If you do not lay the electrical network in the house according to the rules, then you can put your family in danger.

If you want to lay the power grid in a wooden house on your own, you need to adhere to a certain set of rules - PUE and SNiP. They provide a short general list of requirements, subject to which you can protect yourself as much as possible and prevent fires in a wooden room. Do-it-yourself wiring in the house should be laid according to clear instructions and each step should be provided for.

PUE (rules for the installation of electrical installations) - defines the requirements for the installation of an electrical network in premises. Compliance with the requirements of the PUE is considered expensive to implement, but a very expedient way. It is rigid and laborious in execution. For this reason, these rules are not often followed.

SNiP and PUE were prescribed in order to calculate absolute safety under the condition of any load flowing through the cable, to protect yourself from a short circuit or line ignition. If homemade wiring in a wooden house is not subjected to relatively high voltage, then this does not pose a particular danger.

Therefore, when laying electrical wiring in such a building, all risk factors should be taken into account and the right decision should be made. Either make the line according to all the rules of PUE and SNiP - expensive, but reliable, or it will be carried out faster and cheaper, but at high loads your house will become unsafe.

The regulation PUE-6 has special requirements for laying electrical wiring in wooden rooms. In order to prevent moisture and steam condensate from accumulating on the cables, they are placed in pipes, metal sleeves or boxes are flexible. It also gives the wires additional protection against mechanical damage.

It is allowed to connect such pipes, ducts or metal hoses if the room is dry, there is no accumulation of gas, vapors, condensate and the humidity level is normal. The connection of metal sleeves, boxes and pipes is necessary under negative conditions in the house. They are fastened together when the room contains vapors, gases that adversely affect the insulation of cables, their protective sheath, as well as when wiring is installed outdoors, if moisture, oil and other liquids can get on the power line. After bonding, they are compacted and sealed.

In dusty houses, sealing joints and branches of pipes, sleeves, and ducts are made to protect against dust and small debris. Connecting pipes, sleeves and boxes are used as a grounding or zero protective conductor, performing the function of "ground" or "zero" in the wiring. It is forbidden to pass cables through ventilation ducts and shafts. Only crossing with a single wire is allowed, which is located in a protective metal sleeve or pipe.

Also, the laying of wires behind a false ceiling must be carried out in accordance with the norms of Chapter 7 of the PUE. When installing the electrical network in a private wooden house, only copper wires are required. You also need to carefully select the type of cable that can withstand the required load with a margin. Be sure to follow the safety precautions when laying the electrical line in the house.

How not to do

In order to conduct an electrical network in wooden knowledge, you cannot use all installation methods for stone houses or apartments. You can not mount the wire on a wooden beam and other structures without protection. The main power line must not be covered by flammable materials or finishes. Temperature changes, humidity, accumulation of dust and dirt on the wires, frequent deformation and bending of the wires should not be allowed to affect the insulation of the wiring. It is necessary to exclude the increase in the load on the entire home network.

All of these factors can lead to damage to the wiring, resulting in a short circuit. If the bare part of the electrical wiring ignites in a wooden house, then a fire is inevitable. Wires should also not be left unprotected. Pets or rodents can gnaw through the wire, which must be avoided. When processing wood near the laid wires, a large amount of chips and dust accumulates. In the event of a short circuit, ignition will be assisted by the presence of combustible material.

Entering cables into the house

Conducting electrical cables in a private wooden house is a very responsible area of ​​work. Do not focus entirely on the internal wiring in the building. The input of the power cable into the house must meet modern requirements. It should be borne in mind that energy consumption has increased, which increases the load on the line, as well as the effect on external insulation of solar is better, temperature difference, moisture, which subsequently exposes the metal cores of the wires. There are two possible ways to introduce a power line into a private house - underground and overhead.

The underground way to conduct an electric line is more reliable, but complicated and expensive. The power cable is completely hidden from external factors, which reduces the risk of mechanical damage to the wire, moisture ingress, etc. For this, earthworks are carried out. The cable is placed at a depth of more than 80 centimeters, and the security zone must be marked with special signs. The passage of the power line under the foundation of the house is done with a special metal sleeve through which the wire passes. The sleeve is made of thick-walled pipes and durable metal.

Today, this method is used in the construction of new houses, since it is possible to think about passing all communications into the building using new construction technologies. Air way. This method has been used for a long time. Only a qualified worker with the appropriate clearance is allowed on power line poles. Therefore, you cannot make the cable entry yourself.

A SIP cable is used from the pole to the house. Self-supporting insulated wire has a very strong sheath made of polyethylene structure, resistant to solar radiation and temperature extremes. Service life is about 25-30 years. This line does not start inside the building, only up to the switchboard. For a separate section that combines the line connection point and up to the switchgear, a VVGng cable is used. It can be used for fixed wiring, as well as for outdoor. For reliability, it is placed in an electrical corrugated pipe.

The connection usually takes place outside the building. At the intersection of the VVGng wire through the wooden beam of the house, attic walls, ceilings, a metal sleeve is built in for additional protection of the wire.

Video “Wiring in a log house”

Shield mounting

When installing the shield, you must follow the step-by-step instructions for installing it. The wiring of all wiring goes directly to the switchboard. An electric meter, additional protective devices, automatic plugs (a modern way to de-energize an overvoltage network), a DIN rail, as well as ground and zero loop buses are mounted in it. What dimensions the box should have is not regulated, but it is better not to save on this so that it is possible to increase the equipment when the demand for electricity increases.

The installation of the meter is carried out by specialists of a state institution, it is sealed. The power of operating machines is calculated for each zone separately. When a sector is overloaded, the direct supply of electricity is turned off in it in order to avoid negative consequences. RCD can be connected to the entire intra-house network. This may affect the more frequent operation of the machine, but this is not critical. The shield is mounted on a solid, stable vertical surface in an accessible place. In private sectors, it is located outside the building.

When connecting wires to the switchboard, the usual twist is not used. For this, soldering or terminal connections are used. The clamps are reliable and can be easily replaced if necessary. Choosing which method can best protect the electrical distribution board, you can choose a protective hermetic box that will prevent moisture from entering and from physical damage.

open wiring

According to the PUE-6 norms, open electrical wiring in a wooden house is laid on the surface of the walls of the building, along the ceilings, as well as along trusses and other building elements of the structure (supports, beams, and others). Open wiring is laid along the tension string, cable, on special colic. Insulators are used for electric cables and cords, metal pipes, more flexible hands for line mobility, in trays. There are also special electrical skirting boards in which the wire is placed, platbands with this purpose, free suspension.

Open wiring in a private wooden house involves the use of a special electrical corrugated pipe to create an electrical line. For its production, a special stable and non-combustible type of plastic is used. It is much more expensive than conventional insulating elements, but justifies with its reliability. Such a corrugated tube is very convenient for installation, as it is quite flexible. Despite its unaesthetic appearance, this insulating material is one of the best for open wiring in a wooden house.

The electrical tube collects a large amount of dust due to some features of the material, which requires constant care and wiping of dust from its surface. For installation of open wiring, electrical boxes can be used. After the construction of a private wooden house, channels are installed in special boxes, which are usually made of refractory plastic. Cables are pulled through them, and then hermetically sealed with lids.

The main problem of using such installation is the shrinkage of the building after construction. The better the wooden beam is used for construction, the lower the level of shrinkage of the house. If the building is made of glued beams, then usually the shrinkage is 1 centimeter per 1 meter of the height of the house. Then, over time, the average shrinkage for a two-story wooden house will be about 3 centimeters. In the event that the wiring was made with the tension of the cord, then it may burst from excessive tension and pressure. Otherwise, the covers of the boxes will fly out and they will crack. Then the wiring will need to be pulled again. Therefore, it is imperative to take into account shrinkage, make a small supply of wire at the junctions, near the switchboard, and also at the electric pole.

Hidden wiring

The norms of PUE-6 provide that hidden wiring in a wooden house can be laid directly inside the structural elements of the building (wall, floor, floors, foundation), in the floors of a wooden floor, and also under a removable beam. Hidden electrical wiring in the house can be done in several ways - placing the cable in flexible protective sleeves, pipes, boxes, in hollow building structures or closed channels. Also, wiring can be laid in a grooved furrow, which is covered with special plaster, or the creation of a “monolith” in various building structures during their manufacture at the factory.
It is recommended to start the installation of hidden wiring in a wooden building using metal hoses or pipes to protect the premises. By adhering to these rules, you can avoid the consequences of sparking wiring, overheating of cables from excessive load in the network.

Usually hidden wiring is laid behind a wooden beam of walls or floors. It is necessary that the protective elements are minimally vulnerable to corrosion. To do this, you need to pre-paint the structures with stable paint to reduce the likelihood of rusting and increase the service life, or use pipes made of a special material - stainless steel (expensive and reliable), galvanized.

After the pipes and sleeves were cut to the required length, sharp iron burrs and edges remain at their ends, which should not be allowed when laying the cable. Since these edges can damage the sheath of the cord, they must be cleaned with a whetstone or file. You can use specially designed plastic plugs.

If the wiring in the house will be done under a wooden floor, then you need to raise a few bars for more convenient laying of the sleeve or pipe. In the places where the wiring exits to connect the fittings, you need to drill in the timber. Wires coming out of the main line can be placed in a copper tube and sunk into the wall. Copper is quite flexible, resistant to corrosion and well suited to continue further installation work, however this material is quite expensive. If the electrical cables will be recessed into the wall, then for this it is necessary to use a drill and a puncher. In this case, the beam is not removed, but a longitudinal hollow is drilled in it, where the wire will be laid in the future.

According to GOST and PUE, there is a standard for conducting power lines in rooms with temperature changes. If a stable temperature corresponding to the season is not maintained in a wooden house, then the pipes with the cable should be placed at a slight slope. This is due to the fact that condensation can accumulate in such houses, which should not be allowed. A slight slope will allow the accumulated condensate to gradually drain to the bottom of the pipe and gradually evaporate.
Since it makes no sense to use plaster in wooden houses, the wiring is usually placed on the floor with a wooden beam of the floor or between the partitions of the walls, where there are recesses.

Wooden houses are a very ancient tradition of Russian architecture. Even in our time, when there is no shortage of modern building materials, many owners of suburban areas prefer to build housing from wood - no one can even compare closely with it in terms of natural warmth and the special comfort created.

Yes, and ordinary citizens - owners of small cottages, most often opt for wood, as the main material for construction. But both permanent and temporary housing in modern conditions cannot do without power supply. In both cases, it is extremely necessary to know how to make the wiring in a wooden house correctly so as not to endanger your health and even life, to ensure the safety of housing and property.

Basic requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden house

First of all, it is necessary to warn home craftsmen who believe that if they can fix a socket or a switch in an apartment, they know how to distinguish zero from a phase using a conventional indicator, then they can safely take on independent wiring in a country wooden house. Not everything is so simple - a wooden structure is characterized by an increased fire hazard, and the requirements for laying power here are completely different.


Poor electrical wiring is the most common cause of fires

The bleak statistics show that the overwhelming number of fires that occur in wooden buildings are directly related to violations of the installation and operation of electrical appliances or wiring. By and large, you should not take on the independent laying of electrical lines at all - this is the lot of qualified specialists. However, any owner of wooden housing needs to know the basic rules, although would in order to evaluate the existing cabling or to control the work of the called electricians, since it is quite possible to run into "hacks" who perform work on the principle " it's okay, it will do".

So, what are the basic requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden structure:

  • The probability of cable ignition with the transmission of open fire to the wooden structure of the building in the event of a short circuit should be completely excluded or minimized to the limit.
  • The physical, technical and operational characteristics of the wires and electrical fittings used must correspond with a sufficient margin to the total power consumption at each specific section of the wiring, taking into account peak loads. Any manifestations of heating of cables or terminal connections are unacceptable.
  • The condition of the wiring must completely eliminate the risk of electric shock to people or pets.

The problem of aesthetics in a wooden structure should go by the wayside. There are many acceptable ways to solve this issue as well (this will be discussed below). But you should never seek to improve the interior design of premises at the expense of even a slight decrease in the level of security - this is fraught with disastrous consequences.

The complexity of independent work on laying in a wooden house is also in the fact that there is no single regulatory document. Experienced craftsmen with extensive experience know the basic requirements for it and the technological methods for their implementation. It’s not so easy to pick up the necessary information scattered about by SNiPs, GOSTs and PUE (electrical installation rules), and it is often too specialized in nature, understandable only to a person with a specialized education.

The main objective of this publication is to give the owners of wooden houses a basic understanding of how to install electrical wiring. As an instruction on how to make wiring in a wooden house, addressed to an unprepared person, for completely independent electrical work, it should not be considered.

The entrance of the electric line to the house

This very responsible area, which for some reason the owners often forget about, focusing on the internal wiring. The principle probably works - it has been standing for a long time and fully justifies itself. Meanwhile, the introduction of a power cable into the house could have been carried out for a very long time, using old technologies that no longer meet modern requirements. The equipment of houses with electrical appliances has grown literally at times, respectively, and energy consumption has also increased. Yes, and the cable part itself can become hopelessly outdated - the insulation bursts under long-term exposure to the sun and temperature changes, exposing metal cores and reducing the safety of the wiring.

Such a cable entry through a wooden wall is a “time bomb”

A particularly vulnerable area is the passage of the cable through the wooden wall of the attic. At one time, it was believed that cutting a rubber hose was enough for safety. However, such a knot is fraught with a considerable threat - the composition of rubber contains a considerable percentage of soot, which in itself is carbon, i.e. conductive material. As such an “insulator” ages, electrical conductivity bridges with a sufficiently high resistivity appear. There may be areas of local heating, sparking, and for dry roof gable boards this may be quite enough.

In a word, if the goal is to completely update the wiring and bring it to a truly safe state, then you need to start from here.

There are two ways to bring a power line into a house - overhead and underground.


  • The underground method is considered more reliable, since the cable is completely hidden and not subject to external influences. However, this is a rather costly method that will require significant excavation. The cable must be located at a depth of at least 0.8 m, the security zone must be marked with signs. The passage through the foundation and entry into the house is carried out with the obligatory installation of metal sleeves from thick-walled pipes.

As a rule, it makes sense to organize such a connection only when, thinking over the passage of communications in advance. If the power line is laid in an already built house, then it is easier and cheaper to use overhead wiring.

  • It is strictly forbidden to carry out any independent electrical work on the poles of power lines - only a highly qualified electrician with the appropriate approval has the right to do this.

An approximate diagram of the required placement of overhead wiring from power lines to the house is shown in the figure.


The section of the line from the pole to the house is usually made of wire with a cross section of at least 16 mm. Basically, a SIP cable (self-supporting insulated wire) is used, which has a high-strength sheath made of cross-linked polyethylene, resistant to infrared radiation and thermal shock. The service life of such a wire should be at least 25 years.

However, this line never starts inside the house. According to existing rules, it is strictly forbidden to lay cables with an aluminum current-carrying part along combustible structural elements. And since we are talking about a wooden house, then starting from the entrance and up to The last socket or light bulb uses only copper conductors.

For the section from the line connection to the inlet switchgear, it is recommended to use the VVGng cable. The additional index "ng" indicates the incombustibility of its insulating coating. This cable fully meets the requirements for fixed wiring both indoors and outdoors. However, for greater reliability, it is also recommended to enclose it in a corrugated polymer pipe, which has the appropriate certification in accordance with the current fire safety rules NPB 246-97. The plastic from which the "corrugation" is made belongs to self-extinguishing, non-combustible materials.


Always carried out outside the building. Currently, for this, special hermetic compresses are most often used, providing reliable contact without the possibility of oxidation and sparking.

The sections of VVGng passage through the walls of the house and attic or interfloor floors must be enclosed in a metal sleeve made of a thick-walled pipe. This precaution has several purposes:

  • The cable part will be protected from damage that may be caused by displacements of building structures, for example, due to shrinkage of the house or ground vibrations.
  • The metal sheath will prevent the spread of fire to wooden structures to the maximum extent in case of an emergency - overheating or ignition of the cable.
  • The cable in vulnerable places hidden from view receives protection from domestic rodents.

The pipe wall thickness is a regulated value. So, if a wire with a cross section of up to 4 mm² is used, it should be 2.8 mm, and when using more powerful cables - from 6 to 10 mm² - even 3.2 mm. This will eliminate the possibility of burning the pipe wall if a short circuit occurs inside it.

The same rule applies to all sections of the house wiring in a wooden building, without any exception.

The next important section is from the entrance to the house to the switchboard (according to the accepted terminology, the introductory switchgear - VUR). What is the special specificity of this section - it remains unprotected by automation from overloads or short circuits and, as a rule, is not in sight, often passing through attic or utility rooms. You should not rely on the automation of an electrical substation - there are completely different levels of operation.

There are several ways to radically solve this problem:

  • The entire section of the cable to the ASU can be enclosed in a metal pipe with the same parameters as mentioned above. However, this becomes possible only with its small length - up to 2.5 - 3 meters and the absence of a large number of turns. Push a sufficiently rigid cable for considerable distances in the gap T t ruby ​​will be simply impossible.
  • It seems optimal to install a circuit breaker in a sealed box immediately before the line enters the building. At the same time, the threshold for its operation selects a step higher than that of the main AZ, which is installed on the ASU. So, if a 25 A machine is installed on the shield, then 32 A should be set on the outside.

This will protect the vulnerable area from overload, but at the same time, if such a situation occurs in the internal house wiring, the automatic switch on the ASP will work, and there will be no need to get to the external AZ.

  • There is another option, when both the machine and the energy metering devices are taken out by the power supply organizations in general on the outer wall of the building or even on the power line poles. This, of course, is reliable, but not always convenient for the owners of the house.

Switchboard installation

The line from entering the house directly, without any branches, leads to the switchboard - ASU. What are its main components:

  • A metal or plastic box with places for placing an electric meter and additional protection devices, a DIN rail for AZ, tires - zero and ground loop. The dimensions of the box are not regulated, so it’s better not to save in this case, and install it with the expectation of a further possible “upgrade” - retrofitting, the need for which may arise as it expands electrical equipment Houses.
  • Sealed electricity meter.
  • The main introductory circuit breaker, two-pole or three-pole, which is usually also sealed by the power supply organization.
  • DIN-rail mounted single-pole AZ. Their number may vary. Typically, the power grid at home is divided into zones - each their they will correspond to your machine of a certain power. So, a kitchen, one or more rooms are separated into separate zones, which can also be divided into lighting and a socket group. Often a separate zone is the lighting of the yard, the power supply of the garage and outbuildings, external sockets that are used for chores on the territory.

The power of the machines is calculated for each zone individually. They are guided by the rule that it should provide overload operation on the weakest section of the local wiring. The lower the rating, the higher the safety of the operation of electrical appliances. So, if ordinary sockets have a permissible limit of 16 A, then the AZ should not exceed this value.

  • RCD - a device for protective shutdown of power supply when a leakage current is detected. Due to the considerable cost of such a device, many simply neglect it. However, although it is not mandatory, it is still better not to be stingy, purchase and include it in the overall power supply system. The RCD will reliably protect residents from electric shock when using electrical appliances, and will not allow emergency situations in the network. It acquires special significance in areas with high humidity - kitchens, bathrooms, baths, boiler rooms, external fittings in yards, garages, etc. The selection of the RCD rating and its installation should be carried out by a qualified electrician, since several parameters are taken into account here - the total load of the site (maximum current) and leakage current.

The RCD can be installed on the entire intra-house network, but in this case there is a high probability of frequent false alarms, and besides, it will be very difficult to identify the source of a potential security threat. More convenient, but, true, and more expensive way becomes setting RCD also with zoning, similar to AZ.

Video: RCD installation example

All hardware of the switchboard must be exclusively from trusted manufacturers, have the appropriate certificates of conformity. It is important to remember that in many respects these are responsible for the safety of the owners and the safety of the building.

Prices for residual current devices (RCD)

Residual current devices (RCD)

How to make wiring in a wooden house - from the shield to the points of consumption

Now about one of the main points of the wiring device in a wooden house - the sections from the switchboard to the connection points for electrical appliances.

First of all, a few words about . Twisting must be avoided, even when using thick copper conductors of the same section. Soldering wires is allowed, followed by closing the bare part with plastic caps. The best solution would be to use special spring or screw terminal connections (for example, WAGO terminals). This is not so expensive, but it will provide both reliable contact and the required protection against short circuits. In addition, such connections are easy to check and, if necessary, replace.


The best solution for a wooden house is the open wiring on the walls. There are opportunities to place it hidden, but this will require large-scale and expensive work.

Methods for open wiring

  • For a long time, it has been used to place internal wiring cables on wooden structural elements on insulating rollers, providing a safe gap of 10 mm from the wall.

In the houses of the old building, in some places such wiring has been preserved to this day.


There are numerous fans of this retro style ...

By the way, this method of fastening has become fashionable again - many owners prefer such retro wiring. For this, special twisted cables of various colors are even produced.


… and you can even purchase special wiring

Video: retro wiring on wooden walls

However, to take such approaches seriously d for the organization of all internal wiring is hardly appropriate. The number of electrical appliances and, accordingly, points of consumption in the average house has increased significantly, and laying many highways from the switchboard on rollers over the wall will look simply ridiculous.

  • Single cables with a cross section of less than 6 mm² can be placed directly on the wall surface, fixing them with electrotechnical clips appropriate size. The main condition for this is the presence of double (or even triple) cable insulation. For such purposes, the already mentioned wires of the brand VVGng or NIM are suitable. If wires are used in ordinary insulation, then a fireproof gasket (asbestos or metal) will be required, protruding at least 10 mm on both sides of the cable, and this is unlikely to decorate the interior of the room.
  • Wiring can be placed in a polymer electrical pipe. The advantage of this approach is that several wires can be placed in one pipe. It will already look a little better than single cables, but still the aesthetics in this case are “lame” - the corrugation is not easy to place perfectly evenly, even using clips. But on the other hand, the wires receive additional protection from external damage and the required clearance from the wall is created.

For inconspicuous wiring areas, for example, for utility or technical rooms, this method is probably optimal. However, it also has a drawback - if it is necessary to replace a single cable, you will have to remove the corrugated lining from the entire bundle of wires.

Find out some of the available ways in our new article.

A sleeve made of a metal pipe at the place where the wires pass through the ceiling
  • The growing popularity of polymer cable channels, closed with a removable cover . They are produced in various sizes, which means that it is possible to choose them both for a single wire and for several parallel lines. They are made of non-flammable plastic, which increases the safety of the wiring.

Such boxes can be selected according to the most suitable color - they are not only white, but also toned or having a decorative “wood-like” coating that will go well with the material of the walls.

A special advantage of such channels is the simplicity of preventive or installation work with the cable part - you can always remove the cover to replace a problem cable or add a new connection.


Considering that there are a lot of additional accessories for such cable channels- turns, external and internal corner elements, tees, plugs, etc., the owners can use them to solve the problem of the required decorativeness of the electrical wiring.

Video: open wiring in a wooden house using cable channels

  • Another kind of similar cable channels are electrical skirting systems. They are also equipped with all the necessary elements for straight sections, turns, corners, rises to sockets and switches, junction boxes. This allows you to maintain the overall style of the room, despite the fact that, in fact, the wiring will be considered open.

Important note - installation cable channels should be carried out only after the initial shrinkage of the house and on condition that the wood of the walls is well dried. Otherwise, even minor changes in the “geometry” of the room can cause deformation and even destruction of the boxes.

  • They also resort to placing open wiring in pipes, metal or polymer. You cannot call such a technology convenient - each straight section is threaded separately, then a transitional or rotary coupling is installed, and so on. Of course, the need to replace the cable part will also cause a lot of difficulties. This approach is rather a tribute to fashion, but by no means the optimal solution for outdoor wiring.

Sockets and switches installed with open wiring must necessarily have a non-flammable gasket at the bottom. Well, if it is provided by their very design. If not, then you will have to cut out sites from asbestos or metal.

You should immediately calculate the required number of outlets in a particular place in the room. The use of tees or extension cords during the operation of electrical appliances should be reduced to a minimum, and even better, completely eliminated.

Electric cable prices

Electrical cable

Hidden wiring in a wooden house


If the owners of the housing nevertheless prevail, the desire to completely hide the wiring, then they will face very large-scale work.

  • To ensure complete fire safety, all wires must be replaced with a fireproof sheath, which can only be a steel or copper pipe. The inner cavity of the steel pipe must be either painted or galvanized to prevent corrosion of the walls.
  • All transitions and turns are performed using threaded elements or by welding (soldering).
  • The horizontal sections of the pipes must have a slight slope so that the condensate formed in the cavity has an outlet to the outside. Special holes are also provided in those places where moisture accumulation is most likely.
  • Only metal sockets are installed in the holes cut out for hidden placement of sockets and switches, which must be connected to the ground loop.

  • All branchings are carried out only in junction boxes, which must also be hermetically connected to the pipes.
  • The entire pipe loop must be grounded. to remove possible static voltage from it and prevent electric shock in the event of a possible violation of the cable insulation.

  • To prevent contact of the wire insulation with the sharp edges of the pipe, a centering plastic plug must be installed at the outlet.

Video: placing hidden wiring in metal pipes

Hidden wiring is allowed in another way - according to the outline of the plaster layer with a thickness of at least 10 mm. However, this is rarely used, at least for the reasons that covering natural wood with plaster is probably not the best option.

If you look at photos or videos posted on the Internet, you can see a lot of examples when hidden wiring is placed in metal or plastic, or simply bundles of wires are laid in strobes made in wood. What no matter what “authoritative” masters write, who convince that such a method is completely safe, this is a gross violation of existing requirements. It is hardly worth laying such a "time bomb" in your wooden house - the stakes are too high!

The article mentioned the ground loop more than once. However, this issue is so peculiar and important that it deserves a completely separate detailed publication, which will definitely find its place on the pages of our portal.

All electrical work requires accuracy, increased attention, strict adherence to technical rules and established standards from the contractor. When planning and conducting the electrification of a wooden house, it is necessary to get advice from a qualified electrician, get acquainted with the regulatory documents, the basic requirements and the sequence of laying the electrical wire.

Requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden house

The installation of electrical wiring in wooden houses has some differences and features from the electrification of stone houses. When designing and laying cables, safety must be a priority. There are a number of basic rules that require strict implementation:

  1. Careful insulation of electric current conductors using non-combustible materials (NYM, VVGng, VVGng-LS).
  2. Aluminum conductors must be replaced with copper conductors with a cross section of at least 16 mm2. The cable must enter the house through a metal sleeve. The transition of the wire from one room to another is carried out through a rigid metal pipe.
  3. It is desirable to carry out electrification of a wooden house by an "open" method.
  4. It is necessary to carry out an accurate calculation of the cable thickness, leaving a margin of at least 30%.
  5. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of the materials used. It is necessary to choose a cable with non-flammable insulation.
  6. If it is necessary to install hidden electrical wiring, it is imperative to use a metal pipe. Laying cables in corrugated pipes is prohibited.
  7. Installation of an RCD, ground loop and lightning rod is required. In this case, not only electrical appliances are subject to grounding, but also metal pipes in which the cable is laid.
  8. The input node - the electrical panel should be isolated as much as possible from the wooden structures of the house. Sometimes you have to build a brick wall, and the floors are made of cement / concrete screed.

Wiring options in a wooden house

Do-it-yourself wiring in a wooden house, namely cabling, can be done in three ways:


Do-it-yourself wiring in a wooden house: diagrams

According to current regulations, when electrifying a private house without installing a transformer, the power consumption cannot exceed 15 kW. This indicator is calculated by summing the power of electrical appliances turned on at the same time. If the result obtained is less than 15 kW, then an introductory machine is set to 25A, otherwise a transformer is additionally required.

When developing a wiring diagram, the connection points are divided into different consumption groups. For example, lighting fixtures are powered from one machine, sockets require a separate device, and an additional one for street lighting.

It is advisable to equip personal automatic machines and a separate power supply branch for powerful electrical equipment: an electric stove, a boiler or an electric boiler. Free-standing outbuildings also require separate automatic power supplies.

Important! For safety reasons, it is better to increase the number of power supply branches - this measure helps to reduce potentially dangerous connection sections.

Below is an approximate wiring diagram in a private wooden house with your own hands.

Some nuances in the development of the scheme:

  1. The introductory machine and the meter of the energy supply organization require to be placed on the street for the convenience of controlling electricity consumption.
  2. For outdoor placement, the meter and circuit breaker must be in a sealed case that prevents moisture, dirt and dust from entering. Boxing protection class - not less than IP-55. The requirements for boxes installed inside a wooden structure are slightly lower - IP-44, the main condition is that the case is made of metal.
  3. For an emergency shutdown of electricity, it is necessary to place an RCD - the device will work in case of a short circuit in the network.

Do-it-yourself wiring in a wooden house: step by step instructions

Development of a power supply project

To develop an individual project in an electricity supply organization (RES), it is necessary to obtain technical conditions that will become the basis for further work.

The design of the power supply of a wooden house is carried out in the following sequence:


When organizing power supply and drafting a project, one should be guided not only by personal wishes, but also by certain requirements:

  1. Only vertical or horizontal wiring is allowed.
  2. All turns of the wire are performed strictly at right angles.
  3. Sockets, switches and junction boxes must be freely accessible.
  4. According to the rules, the installation of switches is carried out at a distance of 0.6-1.5 meters from the floor level, the cable is fed from above.
  5. The optimal placement of sockets is 0.5-0.8 m from the floor, the recommended number of sockets is 1 pc. for 6 sq.m. In rooms with a large number of household appliances, there will be more sockets.
  6. Wires must not be run closer than 10 cm from door / window openings. It is necessary to exclude the contact of wires with metal elements and nearby wires (the minimum allowable distance is 0.5 cm).

Selection of equipment and cables

To avoid complex calculations to determine the appropriate cable, you can use the reference book on electrical engineering. The cross section of the wire core directly depends on the expected loads.

The power consumption of equipment and electrical appliances is indicated in the technical data sheet or operating instructions. Based on these values, a wire with conductors of the desired cross section is selected. To determine the size of the input cable, it is necessary to sum up the power of the installed electrical appliances.

Advice. For a wooden house, you should choose a cable marked "NG" (do not support combustion) and "LS" (low smoke emission). Usually, wires with a cross section of 2.5 mm and 1.5 mm are used for internal wiring.

The introductory circuit breaker is selected with a rating sufficient so that at maximum load the power to the house does not turn off, but an open circuit occurs, preventing a short circuit.

For a single-phase supply, the circuit breaker is selected as follows:


When choosing switches and sockets, some parameters are taken into account:

  • the amount of current for which the equipment is designed;
  • installation option: external / hidden wiring;
  • the number of keys - for switches, the number of places - for sockets.
  1. Household appliances with high power (electric stoves, washing machines, boilers, fireplaces, refrigerators, etc.) are subject to mandatory grounding. In such situations, it is advisable to use sockets with a terminal for connecting the ground wire.
  2. Triplets should be avoided. For the simultaneous connection of several electrical appliances, a group of sockets or dual models are installed.
  3. The choice of switches is determined by the lighting mode. To simultaneously turn on several light sources or one lamp, set the switch to one key, for different modes - two- and three-key.

Installation of the machine and input of power supply

According to the developed scheme, junction boxes are installed, the attachment points of switches, sockets and lighting devices are marked. In the designated place, the electrical panel housing is mounted and the following steps are performed:

  1. Installation in the meter shield housing.
  2. Installation of an introductory machine on a metal profile (din rail). An eyeliner to a two-pole automaton of phase and neutral.
  3. The terminals (output terminals) of the counter are connected to the input of the input machine.
  4. Planting a cable into the house and connecting it to the input terminals of the meter.
  5. A voltage relay, RCD, automata for various power groups (lighting, sockets) are installed on the DIN rail.

Cable entry into the house is carried out underground or by air. The second option will be cheaper, but such a supply is considered less reliable. With "air" input, self-supporting insulated wires are used. The main condition is the installation of a fireproof sleeve at the input site in the house.

With the underground method, a metal pipe is used for input, which protects the supply cable from various influences. Cable laying in this way must be agreed with the power distribution company.

Cable laying, installation of switches and sockets

The wire of the selected section according to the layout plan is laid in a closed or open way.

Do-it-yourself internal wiring technology in a wooden house:


Consider step by step how to conduct electrical wiring in a wooden house with your own hands using wall cable channels:


Important! The number of connections affects the ability of the system to carry loads - the more there are, the worse the load capacity.

RCD and grounding

The arrangement of the ground loop involves the following actions:

  1. Preparation of metal rods diameter 3 cm / length 3 m.
  2. Digging a trench 30 cm deep in a triangular shape, where the length of each side is 1 m. Install metal rods at the corners of the formed triangle.
  3. The connection of the reinforcement to each other with metal corners by welding.
  4. Weld an eyelet (loop) to one corner and fix a steel bar 1 cm thick on it.
  5. The rod is laid so that it is connected to the ground conductor in the electrical panel. The insulation of the grounding conductors of the cables is yellow-green.

After the meter in the shield, it is desirable to place an RCD. This device will protect a person from electric shock in case of leakage to the equipment case. RCD parameters are selected based on the value of the rated current in the network. Such a protective device is especially important for rooms with a high level of humidity (bathroom, sauna, swimming pool, etc.).

Do-it-yourself wiring in a wooden house: video

Common Newbie Mistakes

Electrification of a wooden house is a responsible event. According to statistics from fire organizations, most wooden structures ignite primarily due to a faulty electrical wiring. Some novice masters can ignore the advice of professionals and make a number of gross mistakes:

  1. Hiding wiring under wooden ceiling structures.
  2. Laying cables under the plinth.
  3. Use of corrugated PVC pipes for laying wire. Despite the practical qualities of the material and the convenience of its installation, PVC pipes are prohibited for use in the electrification of wooden buildings.
  4. The location of the insulated cable in the strobe without the use of a metal pipe.
  5. The use of plastic boxes for sockets and switches.