Gladiolus - planting and caring for flowers, placing watering and top dressing. Fertilizers for gladioli How to feed gladioli before planting

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Feeding and care of gladioli.

Obtaining beautiful inflorescences and high-quality planting material directly depends on the proper care and fertilizing of gladioli. The main care methods are timely weeding, loosening, watering and top dressing.

The first shoots of gladioli, depending on the weather, appear about 10-20 days after planting. After the emergence of seedlings and their reaching a height of 7-10 cm, the soil under the gladioli mulch with humus. This is the best option, since humus, giving nutrients during the rains, is a good top dressing for gladioli. If you do not have humus, then you can mulch the soil with peat, finely chopped straw, chopped bark, pine needles or grass after weeding. This technique reduces the drying of the soil, improves aeration, reduces the number of weeds, the number of loosening and watering.

Gladioli are very sensitive to lack of moisture in the soil. They are especially demanding for watering in the third-fifth leaf phase, when the second tier of the root system is being formed, and during the budding period, when the inflorescence is formed.
The lack of moisture during these periods leads to the curvature of the inflorescences, poor development of the root system and the replacement corms.
Watering gladioli run with warm water if possible. Watering should be plentiful 10-15 liters per 1 sq.m to moisten the soil at a depth of 25-30 cm. After each watering or rain, we loosen the soil to a depth of 4-5 cm, at the same time weeding out weeds and hilling plants.

In different phases of the development of gladiolus, different top dressings are required.
The first dressing of gladioli - after the growth of the second true leaf, using 30-40 g of potassium nitrate for this, or if it is not available, then 25-30 g of urea or ammonium nitrate and 20-25 g of potassium sulfate are dissolved in 10 liters of water and 1 sq.m is spent for irrigation landings.
The second dressing of gladioli - in the phase of 3-4 leaves: 30 g of urea and 30 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water per 1 sq.m. of plantings. .To obtain powerful peduncles with a large number of large flowers in this phase of gladiolus development, it is desirable to carry out foliar top dressing with micronutrient fertilizers (according to the instructions attached to them). It is good to carry out top dressing containing boron during this period to obtain large corms. To do this, 2 g of boric acid is dissolved in 10 liters of water and spent on 1 sq.m of plantings.
The third dressing of gladioli - with the growth of 5-6 leaves: 15 g of urea and 30 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water per 1 sq.m.
The fourth dressing of gladioli - in the phase of the output of the peduncle and flowering. To do this, dissolve 30 g of nitrophoska in 10 liters of water and use gladiolus plantings per 1 sq.m.
Fifth top dressing of gladioli - immediately after flowering: 15 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water per 1 sq.m.
Superphosphate is poorly soluble in water, so it is used for top dressing. extract of superphosphate. Preparation of the extract: 200 g of superphosphate (double 100 g) is poured into 1 liter of hot water and left for 1-1.5 hours, stirring constantly. Then 0.2 l of the extract is diluted in 10 l of water. This amount is equivalent to 40 g of dry matter and is sufficient to feed 1 sq.m of gladiolus plantings.
The last dressing of gladioli - in early September for disinfection and simultaneous feeding with potassium: 5 g of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) per 10 liters of water per 1 sq.m of plantings.
After September 5 stop feeding.

Gladiolus, which is also popularly called a skewer, is grown both in Russia and in European countries. The Gladiolus plant was popular in ancient Egypt - it was grown by the patricians.

There are more than 200 species of this flower, but only a few are cultivated in horticulture. The varieties Invitate, Costa, Amigo are in demand. The plant makes great demands on the composition of the soil. It is combined with tall and short crops.

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Popular varieties

The following varieties are cultivated in Russia:

Variety	Description
belle de nui	The variety has large flowers, cultivated in central Russia. The plant is distinguished by dark petals, its average height is 1.4 m
invite	The plant reaches a height of 110 cm. It is used to create bouquets, has a long flowering period. pink petals
Costa	The variety produces large flowers, the petals are corrugated in structure, have a white-lilac color. The maximum plant size is 2.1 m. This crop is planted separately or in combination with undersized flowers. Flowers are delicately scented
Joyce	The variety has large yellow flowers. The maximum stem height is 140 cm. Flowering lasts 2 months. Joyce is used to create flower arrangements, it is often placed in flower beds
Amigo	This is a low garden culture, the maximum height of which is 117 cm. This variety has small corrugated flowers, the color can be pink and brown

Growing features

The basic cultivation rules are as follows:

The plant should not be grown in one place for more than 2 years. In the third year of life, a transplant is carried out, the soil in this case should have a different composition.
It is recommended to buy healthy seedlings, the variety must be adapted to specific climatic conditions.
The plant does not like temperature changes.
Excessive watering is harmful, as it leads to root rot.
Some gardeners buy Dutch bulbs; annual flowers can be grown from such planting material. Such bulbs are suitable for growing in cold regions - in the Urals and Siberia.
Gladiolus is not grown from seeds, corms are used.
When planting, it is undesirable to combine large bulbs with small ones; they should be the same in size. If you place large bulbs next to smaller ones, the larger ones will have a depressing effect.
Planting material is stored at home.
If the land is scarce, it is necessary to fertilize it using organic matter and mineral compounds, otherwise the plant will not take root.
Corms are placed at a distance of 40 cm from each other.
Gladiolus needs sunlight. Late varieties do not bloom in the shade.
If the flower is planted in sandy loamy soil, foliar top dressing is recommended, which is applied from a spray bottle.

Planting material preparation

Corms are cleaned a month before planting in open ground, they should not have dense scales. Bulbs should be cleaned carefully so as not to damage the sprouts. If the bulb is rotten, you should choose another one. If there is an area affected by scab on the planting material, it is necessary to cut it off and apply brilliant green. Peeled bulbs are stored in a warm room. Before being placed in the ground, it is recommended to perform disinfection, the procedure will help to avoid diseases and pests.

The bulbs are placed in a solution of potassium permanganate 3%, incubated for 1 hour. 15 days before planting in the ground, daughter bulbs are selected, the size of their kidneys is 7 cm. The hard shell is removed, the children are placed in a box. It is recommended to put it in a lighted area and disinfect the daughter bulbs. A solution of potassium permanganate is prepared for them: 1 g per 900 ml of water, kept for 7 hours.

Landing

For planting in the country should choose a sunny, ventilated area. The flower prefers light, fertile soil. If there are deposits of groundwater in the area, the plant will not take root. The flower grows well on a slightly sloping site, as excess water drains. Gladiolus takes root in slightly acidic soil, the optimal pH level is 6.5. Corms are not planted in soil with high acidity, in this case the leaves rot and wither, the flowers slow down in growth. Planting in acidic soil leads to fusarium. It is not recommended to plant tubers in alkaline soil, as photosynthesis will be disturbed, the leaves will turn yellow, and the flowers will dry.

You can neutralize acidic soil - add 150 g of chalk per 1 sq. m. Tubers develop well in clay or sandy soil. If the soil is loamy, sand should be added, if sandy - clay mixed with rotted manure. Before planting, you can not dig the soil. Gladiolus planted in drought conditions should receive more nutrients. Organic and mineral compounds are essential. The soil is dug up in autumn. The best predecessors of gladiolus:

vegetables;
legumes;
perennial herbs.

You can not plant this plant after other bulbs. Depending on the climate, planting is carried out in spring, in April or mid-May. Before planting, loosen the soil. It is necessary to dig holes 15 cm deep, put moss at the bottom with a layer of 2 cm. Drainage will prevent root rot, as it will retain water.

Care rules

Gladiolus requires painstaking care. When shoots of 10 cm in size appear, humus mulching is performed, the layer thickness is 6 cm. Thanks to this, the plant will be protected from dehydration. Gladiolus is watered once a week, the calculation is 10 liters of water per 1 sq. m. For convenient irrigation, it is recommended to form furrows 4 cm deep - this way water will flow to the roots. After 3 days, it is necessary to loosen the soil to a depth of 5 cm. Loosening is carried out regardless of the weather, the tubers are germinated in open ground.

If the summer is dry, the gladiolus is watered once every 3 days. Lack of moisture is manifested by wilting of flowers and buds. In order for the gladiolus to grow well, it is necessary to remove dried leaves and branches in a timely manner. It is important to weed the plant, weeds should not interfere with its growth. In some cases, gladiolus is affected by slugs. To ensure the prevention of pests, it is required to make mineral compositions. When the seedling forms 3 stronger leaves, you need to feed it with a nitrogen composition. Mix 25 g of ammonium sulfate, 35 g of ammonium nitrate and 25 g of urea. This amount is calculated for 1 sq. m. Excess fertilizer is harmful. A large amount of organic matter and mineral components leads to diseases, the gladiolus begins to grow actively.

When the plant forms 5 stronger leaves, you will need to fertilize using the following composition. Take 15 g of superphosphate, 14 g of ammonium sulfate and the same amount of potassium sulfate, mix the components (the amount is calculated per 1 sq. M.). Before the formation of buds, 35 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium chloride are added per 1 sq. m.

In order for the culture to develop well, it is necessary to fertilize with liquid organic matter. During the period of active growth, bird droppings are used. Take 30 liters of fertilizer, diluted in 50 liters of water. The composition is kept for 10 days, after which it becomes ready for use. One liter of the mixture is diluted in 10 liters of water, the amount is calculated per 1 sq. m. Organics are introduced into the furrows, after which loosening and hilling are performed. Foliar top dressing is applied from a spray gun, they increase the decorative qualities. It is recommended to make a mixture of 0.15 g of boric acid and 0.2 g of copper sulfate, the components are diluted in water. This amount of composition is calculated per 1 sq. M. The leaves are fed 3 times a year. A mixture of boric acid and copper sulfate begins to be applied when the flower forms buds.

Collection of flowers

It is necessary to clean gladioli in a timely manner. They are dug in mid-September. The bulb, suitable for digging, has dense root scales. The daughter bulb should easily move away from the mother bulb. Gladiolus are dug up in dry weather. First, large tubers are dug, then small ones. In some cases, tubers are affected by spotting. If signs of disease are visible, it is necessary to dig up earlier, so that the spotting does not spread to other flowers. Use a pruner for pruning.

When digging corms, cut off the roots. Children are separated carefully. Planting material is sorted by size, washed with water, dried, disinfected, placed in a bag. For disinfection, a solution of potassium permanganate 3% is used. The optimum storage temperature for bulbs is +25 degrees. After 10 days, it is necessary to reduce it to 7 degrees. A month later, the contaminated scales are removed, the daughter bulbs are separated. Tubers are sorted by size into paper bags, stored at a temperature of +6 degrees. Daughter tubers feel good in the refrigerator.

slugs
thrips;
ticks.

If you do not fight insects, they will cause the death of the gladiolus.

Thrips have a small brown body and feed on corms. The pest attacks not only planted bulbs, but also those stored in the basement. It breeds at a temperature of +10 degrees. When the female lays eggs, the tissue of the flower is affected. The larvae feed on the juice of leaves and flowers. In order to avoid the appearance of a pest, it is necessary to weed the gladiolus, dig up the soil, and disinfect the tubers before planting. They are placed in hot water and kept for 5 minutes, after which they are sprayed with a solution of karbofos: 2 g per 900 ml of water. The tubers are dried, covered with chalk, taken out into fresh air.

In order not to attack thrips, it is necessary to observe crop rotation. The plant is not planted in the same place several times.

Onion mite infects various bulb crops. It has a light yellow body, lives on different parts of the gladiolus, mainly on the bulbs. Female ticks are dangerous - they feed on the juice that is in the scales. If an onion mite lives in the garden, tubers and gladiolus bulbs are affected. In order to avoid the occurrence of a pest, it is necessary to cut off the affected roots in time, use stronger material for planting. If mite-infected crops grew in the garden plot, you must wait four years, and only then plant gladiolus. Before storage, tubers should be processed and old scales removed.

Diseases

Sometimes there is a drying out of the gladiolus, which affects the roots and bulbs. The plant turns yellow: first the top, then the roots gradually die off. If root rot overtakes, corms are affected, brown spots form on the surface. When infected with brown rot, planting material becomes unsuitable for long-term storage and planting. The corm can become infected with rot from another horticultural crop.

Also, when brown rot occurs, all parts of the plant are affected, red spots form on the leaves. On the petals you can see watery spots that merge with each other. If the lesion is extensive, the plant dies. Proper storage of tubers is required to avoid brown rot. They need to be ventilated.

For prevention, it is necessary to timely inspect the roots affected by culling. Crop rotation should be observed and the bulbs should be stored in proper conditions.

Before planting in the ground, it is recommended to place 3% potassium permanganate in a solution, hold for an hour, after a while put 5% in a solution of baking soda. It is important to remove yellowed leaves in a timely manner. For spraying use Bordeaux mixture 1%.

The active and colorful flowering of gladioli directly depends not only on the quality of fertilizers, but also on how correctly the scheme for their application is chosen.

Reasonably dosed top dressing of gladioli, made at the right time, will not only allow you to get bright large flowers for cutting, but also keep the bulb healthy.

Use of organic fertilizers

For the successful cultivation of gladioli, providing them with good nutrition must begin even before planting. In the autumn, well-rotted manure is brought to the site planned for planting gladioli at the rate of two buckets per square meter. It is important to introduce organic matter in winter, so that it has time to decompose during the winter, and it does not come into contact with the bulb - this can lead to decay.

Important! Organic fertilizer for gladioli should be used very carefully, despite all the benefits that this type of fertilizer can bring to plants, in particular, low-quality nutrient material can do more harm than good to bulbous crops.

Use of mineral fertilizers

Mineral nutrient mixtures begin to be applied in the spring. After the gladioli produce two leaves, fertilizers are applied for the first time. For this purpose, compositions containing potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen are used, with a predominance of the first two elements.

Fertilizers for gladioli are best absorbed in liquid form, this will reduce nutrient losses, reduce the amount of mineral elements washed out and increase their absorption by the plant.

The second dressing is carried out after the appearance of the third leaf. During this period, the plant needs more phosphorus and potassium, so the composition of the liquid fertilizer should be changed.

The third stage of fertilization should coincide with the moment the fifth leaf appears. Here it is already possible to use complex water-soluble mixtures by adding additional potash fertilizer. This top dressing is aimed at enhancing nutrition with such macro- and microelements that contribute to the proper formation of a flower bud, while not depleting the plant bulb.

Important! In the future, after the appearance of the flower arrow, nitrogen should be completely excluded from top dressing - an element that promotes the growth of green mass.

It is best to use potassium sulfate, it is not forbidden to use complex fertilizers for flowering plants, but you need to make sure that there is no chlorine in its composition.

The application of root fertilizers for gladioli should be carried out throughout the entire period from budding to blooming of flowers and their cutting with compounds containing phosphorus and potassium. These elements are responsible for the formation and growth of buds. Properly adjusted nutrition favors the fact that the flowers get a brighter and more saturated color, the correct symmetrical shape and size.

Foliar top dressing

Top dressing of gladioli, introduced by the green mass, not only strengthens the general immunity of the plant, heals the green mass, but also allows you to add microelements necessary for the active growth of the plant, but better absorbed by the green mass. These include the following:

Manganese - strengthens the general condition of the plant.
Boron - activates the development of buds.
Zinc - increases the plant's resistance to harmful microorganisms.
Iodine - contributes to the production of large flowers.
Molybdenum - increases the number of flowers on the peduncle.

Foliar top dressing is applied only in liquid form. The solution is sprayed on the foliage of the plant. It is important to choose the right moment: the weather should not be too hot, the wind should be moderate or absent, and rain should not be expected in the next few days after.

When to finish feeding

An important point in the question of how and how to feed gladioli is when should the last top dressing be done? It is necessary to finish fertilizing about a month before the moment when the bulbs need to be dug up and dried for storage.

As a fertilizer for the last watering, it is best to use phosphorus mixtures. At the same time, treatment with copper sulphate will give an excellent result, which is an excellent prevention against fungal and bacterial diseases.

Conclusion

By adhering to the scheme described above, you will not only get gladiolus flowers of excellent quality and appearance for cutting, but also keep the bulb healthy, which is especially important for its best wintering and use next season.

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