Summer has come, and handsome peonies have blossomed on many personal plots. These flowers not only delight the eye with their beauty, but also fill the air with a unique aroma. Unfortunately, cut peonies, unlike roses or chrysanthemums, fall off quickly. But you really want fresh and bright flowers to stand in a vase for a long time and become a decoration of the room. After reading this article, you will know how to properly cut and store peonies in a vase, and therefore, a beautiful bouquet will delight you for more than one day.

The right time to cut flowers

Fresh peonies will decorate any interior if placed in a beautiful vase. And with proper care of the bouquet, it will stay in a vase for more than a week. In addition, peonies are well stored in the refrigerator for a long time, if they are pre-wrapped in paper. Cold storage keeps the buds intact and beautiful for at least three weeks.

If you want your cut flowers to last longer in a vase, get up early in the morning. At this time, there is still no exhausting heat, and the buds have not yet fully blossomed. When cutting buds in the daytime, keep in mind that the moisture has already evaporated from them and they are unlikely to allow you to admire them for a long time. You can also cut peonies in the evening, after sunset. Then overnight they will be able to adapt to home temperature.

In the case when peonies are intended for transportation, it is not recommended to cut them during the rain, as they will quickly darken from the water that has got into the leaves and buds. If you are going to transport peonies, cut them early in the morning, wrap them in special paper and put them in the refrigerator. You can cut flowers with large scissors or garden shears.

In order for the flowers to please you for a long time and turn into large and lush beauties, cut off those inflorescences that have not yet fully blossomed and are only slightly colored.

We keep the freshness of peonies in a vase

Before placing peonies in a vase, keep them in a cool and dark place for several hours. Ideally, if you fill the bathtub with water at room temperature and lower the bouquet there. Flowers must necessarily acclimatize after the street and absorb moisture.

While the peonies are adjusting, prepare a suitable vase and water. Peonies love dark-colored vases. In these, water does not rot. Before use, rinse the vase with a solution of potassium permanganate.

For these plants, the ideal water is rain or melt. However, not everyone has the opportunity to pamper flowers like that, so simple settled water is also suitable.

Pour just enough water into the container so that the stems are half immersed in it.

Just before placing the bouquet in the vase, do the following:

• Cut each flower stem at as large an angle as possible. This will allow the flowers to better absorb the liquid. It will be good if you do this procedure under running cold water.
• With any knife with a thin blade, make an incision on the flower stem about 5 cm long. This will improve the flow of fluid into the plant.
• From the part of the stem that will be placed in the water, tear off all the leaves. This will keep them from rotting in the vase. Also, carefully inspect the flowers and remove any bruised and damaged leaves.
• Place a bouquet of peonies in a place where diffused light enters. The room temperature should be comfortable - not hot and not cold.

Little tricks: how to feed flowers

Any flowers need careful treatment and care. So that you can admire fresh peonies in a vase for a long time, it does not hurt to feed them:

• add one tablespoon of sugar and vinegar to 1 liter of water - this will increase the resistance of plants;
• dilute peony water with 200 ml of boric acid. In such a solution, the bouquet will be stored longer.

And by adding a little potassium permanganate, 2 drops of camphor alcohol or one aspirin tablet to a vase of water, you will disinfect the environment and protect the flowers from negative impacts.

Please note that peonies are very susceptible to bacteria, so decontamination is necessary.

Caring for a bouquet in a vase

Firstly, peonies do not tolerate drafts and location near heat sources. Secondly, they are not friendly with fruits, so avoid placing them close to a vase of flowers.

1. To keep the wonderful aroma of peonies for a long time, cover the buds overnight with a plastic bag or special paper.
2. If you purchased or cut unopened buds, you can speed up the process of opening them. To do this, add some alcohol to the vase or simply dip the flowers buds down in hot water. And if you want the bud to bloom right before your eyes, put the flower in a vase of hot water.
3. Lilies of the valley and peonies are incompatible. By composing a bouquet of these flowers, you will shorten the life of peonies, and none of the above means will help you.
4. Flowers such as carnation, daffodil, chrysanthemum, rose, lily, calla are not good neighbors with peonies in a vase. They have a strong aroma that will simply kill the beautiful smell of peonies.
5. Peonies are well compatible with orchids, freesias, lotus. Therefore, you can combine them, creating different bouquets and supplementing with branches of green plants.
6. Change the water in the vase daily and wash it well.
7. If you notice that yellow leaves have appeared on the stem, remove them. This will extend the life of the peony.
8. Those flowers that have deteriorated before the rest, immediately remove from the bouquet and discard.
9. The vase in which you place the cut flowers should be tall enough.

By following all the tips given in the article, you can keep peonies fresh for 1-2 weeks. Store flowers in a vase correctly, inhale their divine smell and get a pleasant experience!

This question may sometimes arise. The peony has beautiful flowers, they attract attention and delight us. We'll talk about what the plant lacks why is the peony not blooming?

This problem can have various reasons, we will try to deal with them now.

Landing place

Perhaps the landing site was not chosen correctly. Do not plant under trees, shrubs or near buildings. It is desirable that the sun was in the first half of the day for 5-6 hours.

ground water

Groundwater comes close to the surface. do not tolerate wetlands. It is necessary to make drainage and bulk ridge.

Landing

Too small or high. If the planting is deep, the buds of renewal are below 3-5 cm from the surface of the earth, the bushes must be lifted and sprinkled with earth. When planted high, renewal buds can freeze during spring frosts. The bushes must be dug up and the hole deepened and then planted with a clod of earth so that the buds are at a depth of 3-5 cm. Pour a bucket of peat for the winter.

Nutrition

Not enough food. In order for peonies to bloom beautifully, you need a lot of nutrients, so you need top dressing for peonies.

The plant has an excess of nitrogen fertilizers. With an excess of nitrogen fertilizer in a plant, the tissues become loose and they do not bloom.

The soil

Too acidic soil. Peonies love alkaline or neutral soil.

Delenki

Too large divisions. In this case, the option, the more - the better does not work. On the contrary, when dividing the bush, when we leave large divisions, they lead to rapid aging and poor flowering of the bush. There should be 3-5 buds and 3-5 roots per division.

Old bush. Old weakened bushes do not bloom well, so at the age of 6-7 years the bush must be divided.

Flowers

Lots of cut flowers. Don't be greedy! Leave for next year! You can cut no more than 1/3 of all flower stalks from the bush. And leave more than two leaves on the stem, otherwise the rhizome does not have time to recover.

Heavily loaded plant. You can not leave more than 25-30 flower stalks per bush per plant. So many flowers need a lot of nutrition, and the rhizome does not have time to recover from flowering before winter, and as a result, the next year you will not see so many flowers.

pruning

Plant pruning. Early pruning can cause the plant to not accumulate enough nutrients, late pruning can lead to rotting of the rhizome. It is better to prune when the foliage turns yellow.

If your plant is sick, then this will affect the flowering of the peony.

Sometimes other questions arise, for example:

Why do peony buds dry up?

Perhaps they were killed by spring frosts. When young shoots appear on the surface of the soil, they produce a substance that can protect the plant from frost, but the buds are not protected from frost.

Possibly root rot. The reason may be: acidic soil, the soil is infected with fusarium, the rhizome of the peony is inhabited by ants.

What to do if the peony is sick with fusarium?

Immediately you need to start spilling regularly with 1% Bordeaux liquid in the ratio of 1 tablespoon per 3 liters of water, over the leaves and over the soil under the plant. In August, dig up the peony, lifting it with a pitchfork and laying it on its side, spill it with water from a hose. Remove the diseased parts of the root, cover with brilliant green and sprinkle with ash. With a strong solution of potassium permanganate, shed the soil in the pit and plant the plant in the native pit. Sprinkle rotted manure around the perimeter of the peony crown.

Do ants harm peony?

Ants sometimes make a nest among the rhizome, and the peony will gradually begin to die. Ants love to feast on the marginal petals of future flowers on buds. On each stem, you need to drop a drop of gel against ants, and they will not climb onto the buds. If there are a lot of them, then you need to remove the layer of earth and remove the egg-laying and spray the ants with the "Ant" preparation.

We will learn the facts about the peony in the next article.

In order for peonies to delight you with their beauty and aroma for a long time, it is worth buying them with closed and barely colored buds. Before putting them in water, hold them in a cool, dark room for a while, this will refresh them somewhat. This is especially true on hot days.

Then remove the leaves, leaving only 2-3 pieces. Refresh the cut with a sharp knife. Make it oblique, so you can increase the water absorption surface of the flower, in addition, it is better in water so that air does not enter the conducting vessels of the peony, clogging them. To stay fresh longer, add boric acid or sugar to the water. A liter of water requires 200 ml of acid or 2 tablespoons of granulated sugar.

The liquid in the vase should be changed every 3 days. In order not to change the water often, add a little coniferous extract to the container, it will play the role of an antiseptic. At night, take the bouquet out of the water, wrap it in wet paper and put it in a cool room. Remove dried flowers as soon as they appear. Also, in order for peonies to please you with their beauty longer, you can put a little charcoal or an activated tablet in the water. To make the buds bloom faster, you can pour a little alcohol or hold them in hot water.

Do not put peonies in the same container with roses, daffodils, lilies, carnations, callas, tulips. If you follow these recommendations, your bouquet will last up to 16 days.

Peonies make excellent cut flowers for bouquets, which can successfully compete in quality with cut carnations and roses. Peonies of the terry group are the most beloved and in demand, therefore, in order for the bouquet to live long and please, you need to take care of it even during the growth of flowers on the bush.

When growing peony bushes for bouquets, you should pay attention to such points:

• Powerful, strongly growing peony bushes, especially terry varieties with heavy and large flowers, need to be tied up or supported. Having large flowers, such varieties often bend down to the ground and lose their decorative effect. It is best to install supports in advance, 7-10 days before the expected flowering of the bush.
• To get very large flowers in terry varieties, it is necessary just before flowering, at the stage of large peas, pinch (remove) lateral, weaker buds. Non-double varieties, on the contrary, will be more decorative and their flowering will be longer, if all the buds are present.
• When cutting flowers for a bouquet, be sure to leave a part of the stem with a few leaves. The stem with the remaining leaves will feed the peony tuber root during the summer, and growth buds will form on it the following year.
• A little more than half of the flowers can be cut from one peony bush. The rest of the flower stems should be left and let the bush bloom. The plant needs to live its full development cycle, mature and prepare for the next season. Cutting all the flowers into bouquets, next summer the bush will not be able to lay many flower buds, or they will be small and weak.

When and how should peonies be cut for a bouquet?

Cut flowers are done in the morning at the stage of a well-colored bud or in half-opening. Non-double and semi-double varieties are cut when the bud is soft when pressed with a finger. For terry varieties, readiness for cutting is the presence of one or two flower petals extending from the bud. The length of the cut stem depends on the variety. As a rule, for bouquets, the stem should be about 35-40 cm long. A few upper leaves are left on it, all lower leaves are removed.

Let's continue talking about peonies, about these romantic flowers that excite our imagination so much with their unusually bright colors and enchanting aroma.

I always look forward to peonies blooming, because when on a warm sunny day you approach a huge flowering bush, inhale this wonderful aroma, touch fragile and delicate silk petals, you understand how beautiful our life is and all the troubles that happen to us - it's just nonsense.

In we got acquainted with the history of peonies, with their healing properties, with biological characteristics and with a variety of varieties.

Today we will talk about how to properly grow peonies, care for them, about the secrets of the lush flowering of peonies.
Peonies are very popular among flower growers not only because of their beauty, but also because they are able to easily, and can also grow in one place for a long time.

And if the plant is planted correctly and in the future to devote at least a little time to it, then the peony will delight us with its lush flowering for many, many years.

Site selection and soil cuisine

The decorativeness of peonies, their viability and longevity depend on how correctly we choose a place for planting peonies. After all, peonies do not particularly like transplants, and can “live” in the same flower bed for decades.

Therefore, the place for it must be chosen especially carefully so as not to disturb the plant once again.

With regard to the landing site, the peony is very capricious, and if he does not like it, then flowering can not wait. And no matter how carefully you take care of it (fertilizing, watering, loosening), the peony will not bloom. So we quickly dig out our capricious handsome man and transplant him to another place.

It is best that it be an open, sunny place, but at the same time, protected from strong and cold winds.

Peonies do not like damp wetlands, so if in the place where you planned to plant them groundwater comes close to the soil surface, then it is worth planting plants on raised bulk beds.

It is not recommended to plant peonies closer than 2 m from buildings, because this creates very unfavorable conditions for their growth: in spring and autumn, increased soil moisture due to drops from the roof; and in summer, overheating of plants is possible due to the fact that the walls radiate heat.

It is also undesirable to plant peonies close to trees and shrubs, since shade and a constant lack of water and nutrients will prevent them from blooming luxuriantly.

I told you, dear readers, about the general recommendations for planting peonies, but what wishes your plant will have will need to be verified in practice.

Here, for example, at my neighbor's dacha, peonies grow beautifully and bloom magnificently near the very wall of the house.

Although peonies can grow on all types of garden soil, they will develop in different ways.

So, for example, on sandy soil they have more stems, leaves and buds of renewal on rhizomes, while the stems grow thin, the leaves and flowers are not large.

If your soil is clayey, then the plants develop slowly: the number of stems does not increase so quickly and, accordingly, peonies multiply more slowly, but the stems grow thick, the flowers are very large and the leaves are powerful.

It is believed that loamy, nutrient-rich soils, well-drained, but sufficiently water-intensive soils are best suited for peonies, since such powerful plants with large leaves simply need water throughout the growing season.

The peony does not like to grow on peat soils, due to the fact that the plant lacks moisture on them, then its excess, then overheating, then hypothermia - no constancy.

In addition, the increased acidity of this soil can cause such a dangerous disease as gray rot.

Therefore, if you have such soil, then before planting it is simply necessary to add ash, sand, bone meal, and organic fertilizers to it, thereby reducing its acidity.

Sandy loamy soil can also be improved by adding some clay and peat and, of course, organic fertilizers.

When to plant?

The time for planting peonies largely depends on the growing area, as well as on what kind of planting material you have.

These can be parts of an old rhizome obtained by dividing it (delenki), or young plants purchased in nurseries.

Delenki are best planted from mid-August to mid-(late) September, since during this period the peony has already sufficiently formed buds of renewal on the rhizome, but the formation of small suction roots has not yet begun.

If the summer was dry, then the renewal buds may be delayed in their development, and then the planting time can be postponed by 1-2 weeks.

It is important to remember that a peony needs 6 weeks for good rooting.

Of course, if the weather is warm for a long time, then you can start planting peonies in October, but it’s better not to risk it.

A plant planted in late autumn needs special care, as it will go unrooted in winter. Therefore, it must be properly covered for the winter.

First, we sprinkle the roots with peat or loose earth with a layer of 10-15 cm, and then additionally cover the top with foliage or spruce branches. Better, of course, spruce branches, if you have one.

In the spring, covered in this way, we must unravel the late plantings and water them well if the weather is dry.

The good rooting of such a peony and its further development will largely depend on the amount of moisture received.

In the spring, I strongly do not recommend planting and transplanting peonies. Because the buds of renewal in peonies begin to grow very early, when the soil has not yet thawed, and by the time it is possible to transplant and divide the bush, the sprouts can already grow up to 10-15 cm.

And since they are very delicate and fragile, during the planting process there is a high probability that the sprouts will break, bend.

Transplanted, and especially peony bushes divided in spring, as a rule, lag behind in development from bushes planted in autumn for a whole year, and under adverse weather conditions, the plant may die.

But in the spring it is good to plant young peonies bought in nurseries or specialized stores, which, with such a planting, will have time to acclimatize well and grow up before winter.

Planting hole preparation

Peonies have a rather powerful root system that grows deep and wide, so it is necessary to prepare a planting hole no less than 60-70 cm in diameter and 70 cm deep.

If we dig a hole not deep enough, then the roots of the peony, having reached solid ground, will stop their growth.

Be sure to put drainage at the bottom of the landing pit. It can be gravel, coarse sand or broken brick.

Then we fill the lower part of the pit with an earth mixture, which consists of the top layer of earth, rotted manure, compost and peat, it is also good to add 150-200 g of superphosphate or 300-400 g of bone meal or ash there, and if your soil is acidic, then it’s not bad to pour 200-400 g of crushed slaked lime as well.

The mixture is thoroughly mixed and filled with water. We fill the upper part of the pit with good garden soil without adding any fertilizers, and we will plant the plant in it.

If you could not do this and prepare the pit right before planting the peonies, then the soil must be lightly tamped so that it does not settle after planting, and then the planted plant may eventually not be at the depth that is required, which will adversely affect the growth of the plant .

Planting material preparation

The best divisions for planting are those that have 3-5 renewal buds and the same number of roots.

You may have a question, why should there be the same number of buds and roots?

The thing is that if there are a lot of buds in the delenka, and few roots, then in the spring the stems that have grown from these buds will not have enough food. After all, until new roots have formed, a young plant receives nutrients from old roots.

If it turns out the other way around - few buds and many roots, then the plant in the first year (and the next) may not develop new buds, but be content with the existing ones, which will undoubtedly affect the flowering of the bush.

So I advise you to pay attention to the fact that on the delenki that you are going to plant, the number of renewal buds and roots is the same.

Before planting, we carefully examine the planting material and very carefully cut off all rotten and damaged tissues to healthy parts.

Then, for disinfection, it is worth holding the roots in a solution of potassium permanganate (7-10 g per 10 liters of water) or copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water) and sprinkle the wounds with crushed charcoal.

Rooting can also be improved using the following procedure: we dip the roots into a clay mash, then slightly dry and plant.

We make the chatterbox in this way: in 10 liters of water we dissolve 60 g of copper sulfate, 2 tablets of heteroauxin and 5 kg of clay, and you can also add 500 g of wood ash.

Another plus of such processing is that planting material can be stored much longer, and it can also be sent by mail.

We plant correctly

Well, we have prepared the landing pit, the planting material too, so it's time to start planting.

This is a very important stage in the cultivation of peonies, because the further development of our young plant, its lifespan and, of course, the splendor of flowering depends on how correctly we plant it.

We plant the peony in the upper part of the planting hole we prepared, which is filled with garden soil.

Particular attention should be paid to the planting depth: renewal buds should be at a depth of no more than 3-5 cm on loamy soils, and on light sandy loamy soils - 5-7 cm.

And such a deepening of the buds must be maintained throughout the life of the bushes, and then our peonies will delight us with their abundant flowering for a long time.

And if the landing is shallow, then in the spring they may suffer from late frosts, in the summer - from overheating, and in a winter with little snow - from frost. And, as a result, some of the buds may die, then we will not get good flowering.

If we plant peonies too deep, for example, the uppermost bud will be at a depth of 15-20 cm, then we will never see the flowering of the bushes, although they will look completely healthy.

Having set the planting material to the depth we need, we fill it with fertile soil, but do not tamp it down so as not to accidentally damage the buds and roots, but gently squeeze it with our hands, eliminating voids.

Then we water abundantly, add more earth, if necessary, and mulch the plantings.

Peony bushes grow quite quickly, so they should be planted at a distance of at least 90-100 cm from each other.

This will further facilitate the processing of the bushes, ensure good air circulation between them, which can prevent the appearance and spread of fungal diseases.

Basic care for peonies

The main care for peonies is to remove weeds, water, loosen, fertilize and protect against diseases.

loosening. It is necessary to loosen the soil around the bushes carefully: directly at the bush to a depth of no more than 5-7 cm, and at a distance of 20-25 cm from it, you can loosen it already deeper - by 10-15 cm.

If we loosen regularly, then a well-aerated mulch layer will soon form, which will prevent the evaporation of moisture from the lower layers of the soil.

In this regard, it will be possible to reduce the frequency of watering in dry weather. Loosening also helps in successful weed control.

And I also want to remind you that it is necessary to prevent the formation of a crust, for this it is necessary to loosen the soil after each rain and heavy watering.

Watering. After planting, peonies really need regular watering (especially if the autumn is dry), as watering speeds up rooting.

In the future, they can be watered infrequently, but plentifully, pouring 3-4 buckets under an adult plant, about once every 8-10 days.

Peonies really need watering in spring and early summer, because during this period there is a rapid growth of bushes and the formation of flowers, as well as in mid-July - August, when the renewal buds are laid.

Watering is best in the grooves, which are made at a distance of 20-25 cm from the bush.

If the bushes are already old, strongly overgrown, then the distance to the groove must be increased so that water can flow into the zone of young active roots.

Although watering the plant in the grooves is allowed at any time of the day, it is still better in the evening, since at this time most of the water is absorbed into the soil and does not evaporate.

On very hot days, you can additionally carry out surface watering of the soil under the bushes from watering cans, trying not to fall on the leaves (in order to avoid the appearance of fungal diseases), and especially on the flowers, in order to prevent them from lodging.

We feed. If we properly prepared the soil when planting peonies and filled the planting pits with nutrients enough, then the first two years the young bushes develop perfectly without root dressing.

In the future, peonies already require regular root feeding.

First feeding it is desirable to carry out even on melted snow or immediately after its descent. At this time, the plant needs nitrogen-potassium fertilizers the most: 10-15 g of nitrogen and 10-20 g of potassium per bush.

You can also make a solution of mineral fertilizers (dissolve 50-70 g of a flower mixture in 1 bucket of water) and add one bucket under a bush.

Do not forget that it is necessary to fertilize under the plants only after rain or heavy watering.

In dry soil, fertilizers (even in liquid, even in dry form) are categorically not recommended to be applied, since the plant may die.

Second time it is worth feeding the peonies during the budding period and we will need: 10-15 g of nitrogen, 15-20 g of phosphorus and 10-15 g of potassium per bush.

Third time we will feed the plants two weeks after flowering during the budding period.

Here we need a mixture in the following composition: 15-20 g of phosphorus and 10-15 g of potassium.

Keep a close eye on the rate of fertilizer application, as excessive amounts of fertilizer (especially nitrogen) can lead to the fact that only the leaves will grow well, and bud formation will decrease.

It also reduces the resistance of plants to diseases.

It is also very good to feed peonies with a solution of mullein or bird droppings with mineral fertilizers added to it.

You can prepare such a nutrient solution as follows: 1 bucket of fresh cow manure is diluted in a barrel in 5-6 buckets of water (bird droppings in 25 buckets) and, placing it in a sunny place, leave for 10-15 days for fermentation.

After fermentation, add 0.5 kg of wood ash, 200-300 g of superphosphate to the barrel and mix well.

Before feeding, this nutrient solution must be diluted 2 times with water, and the solution with bird droppings - 3 times.

Help to bloom

In the first year after planting (and preferably in the second), you should not allow the peony to bloom, as it will weaken the plant and prevent the root system from fully developing.

Therefore, the buds formed at this time should be removed so that all nutrients are directed to the general development of the plant, and not to flowering.

So prepare mentally for the fact that you will see the first flowers on a newly planted peony only in the third year, and real full-fledged flowering with the size and color of flowers characteristic of the variety will only be in the fifth year.

If you want to get large top flowers, then the side buds must be removed when they reach the size of a pea.

If you prefer the abundance of flowers on the bush and its long flowering, then the side buds should not be removed.

Faded peonies must be immediately removed from the stem, cutting them off to the first well-developed leaf and leaving a very small stump.

Otherwise, falling petals, falling on the leaves, can provoke a disease with gray rot, especially in rainy weather.

During the flowering period, peony bushes with large, heavy flowers need supports, since, even with powerful stems, they inevitably begin to lean towards the ground.

And with strong winds and precipitation, the flowers, leaning almost to the ground, become dirty and lose their decorative effect.

Supports are best placed before flowering.

Preparing for winter

For the winter, we cut off the entire aerial part of the plant to ground level. But we do this only after the first strong frosts, when the stalks of pions fall down.

Up to this point, there is still an outflow of nutrients from the leaves and stems to the storage roots.

Therefore, early pruning will cause great harm to the plant.

Some flower growers explain the early cutting of the stems by the fact that the leaves have dried up, but the leaves dry out only on diseased plants, and if it is healthy, then the leaves remain fresh and beautiful until the frost.

After we cut off the aerial part, it is worth paying attention to whether the buds at the base of the shoots are exposed.

If this happens, then you need to spud the bushes by 7-10 cm.

Usually peonies are not covered for the winter. The exception is newly planted plants, it is recommended to cover them with peat or humus with a layer of 10-15 cm. In early spring, before germination, we remove this covering layer.

Basic Mistakes

Sometimes peonies bloom poorly, and sometimes they don’t even bloom at all, although it would seem that the bushes look healthy.

What mistakes did we make when growing peonies?

And they can be as follows:

1. The landing site was not chosen correctly - too shady, close to buildings, trees and shrubs, not wet enough or, conversely, too wet (no drainage).

2. Planting is too deep or too shallow.

3. The peony was recently planted and the planting material was divided very finely.

4. The peony bush is already old and requires transplantation and division.

5. Kidneys were damaged by late spring frosts.

6. Increased acidity of the soil.

7. Excessive amount of nitrogen fertilizers.

8. Lack of nutrition and moisture during the period when the formation of renewal buds is underway.

9. The leaves were cut very early in the fall (before they lodging).

As you can see, dear readers, it is not so difficult to take care of peonies: water them in time, weed weeds, loosen the soil and feed them.

And they, in turn, will give us a lot of pleasure during their flowering, and not only to us, but to all those who pass by our gardens will also admire this fantastic beauty.

See you soon, dear readers!

They froze, they don’t want to bloom ... Of course, it’s cold and damp, but how long can you not bloom? Until they turn brown and there are no signs of rot or mold.

Here is what I have found and will try:

Why don't peony buds open?

On peonies, the buds are tied, but never bloom, gradually turn brown and die. What is it connected with?

The reasons can be different: deep planting, lack of light, moisture, nutrients, flooding of the site with water in spring or autumn, damage by a fungal disease - gray rot. In the latter case, in addition to browning and dying off of the buds, the appearance of brown spots on the leaves is also observed. If these symptoms are noted, the affected branches are cut off, and the bushes are sprayed with 1% Bordeaux liquid or copper oxychloride (30-40 g per 10 liters of water). You can also use a copper-soap preparation.

It is prepared as follows: 10 g of copper sulfate is dissolved in 1 liter of hot water, in another bowl - 100 g of green soap in 10 liters of water. Then copper sulphate is poured into a soapy solution in a thin stream.