Features of remontant strawberries. Strawberries: all about home cultivation, seedlings of sweet berries, comparison of varieties in the table. Seedling growing method
Strawberries and wild strawberries are grown in almost every garden plot, because this plant is one of the first to please with juicy sweet berries. When growing traditional varieties, the harvest time most often occurs in June and lasts for several weeks, not allowing the berries to eat enough. Recently, however, remontant strawberries have increasingly appeared on the market, allowing you to collect fruits from spring to frost.
Classification of varieties
Remontant in literal translation means "re-blooming." Unlike traditional strawberry varieties, which bloom and bear fruit once a season, remontant yields two or more crops. Varieties that bloom continuously throughout the season are used for growing in greenhouses, as container plants or as a house flower. Such strawberries do not have a clearly defined dormant period and, under favorable conditions, they constantly form new flowers and fruits.
All remontant strawberry varieties are usually divided into two groups:
- long daylight hours (LSN),
- neutral daylight hours (NSD).
Remontant strawberries are suitable for growing in a greenhouse.
A feature of SDS varieties is the laying of buds during the period when the length of daylight hours is maximum. Thanks to this, the second harvest can be obtained in August-September, and it will be more abundant than the spring one, accounting for about 70% of annual productivity. In such varieties, spring flower stalks are often removed, after which the plant bears fruit in the fall in two harvests at the same time.
Varieties of NSD do not respond to light intensity. Plants are programmed to bloom 3 months after planting and continuously form flower buds. Such varieties are suitable for intensive cultivation technology in greenhouses all year round.
Features of remontant strawberries
Remontant varieties of strawberries are distinguished from traditional ones by large-fruited, yield, transportability, resistance to diseases, although sometimes they are inferior in taste. On average, the mass of berries is 25-75 g, but some varieties may be larger.
However, high yields and repeated flowering greatly deplete plants, so remontant varieties are short-lived and require periodic replacement. Often, plants die immediately after fruiting. Strawberries DSD are grown for no more than 2-3 years, and NSD requires replacement every year. Only with such agrotechnics it is possible to obtain annual harvests of large berries. An attempt to save old plants will lead to a sharp decrease in yield and weight of berries.
Remontant strawberry variety "Elizaveta II".
The best varieties
Domestic and foreign breeders have bred many varieties with unique and valuable qualities. Whatever criteria the gardener is guided by, you can always buy seedlings of remontant strawberries, which are suitable in all respects.
Unique, popular and best varieties can be combined into a small list:
- . A large-fruited variety with huge fragrant fruits, reaching a mass of 100 g.
- . A unique VAT variety that has 4 peaks of fruiting, continuously blooming and forming fruits.
- Lyubava. A large-fruited variety, the berries of which are distinguished by a wonderful dessert taste and aroma of strawberries.
- . An industrial grade with fragrant, tasty and well transportable berries. It tolerates extreme weather conditions (heavy rains and prolonged drought).
- . Sweet fragrant berries with an average weight of 50-75 g. Actively and abundantly bear fruit not only mother plants, but also young rosettes on the mustache.
Remontant variety of strawberry variety "Honey".
Soil preparation and planting
Strawberries with high intensity of growth and fruiting need a huge amount of nutrients and make high demands on soil fertility. Planting can be carried out both in spring and autumn. The best option would be a well-lit flat area, without stagnant water, protected from the wind. On heavy and waterlogged soils, it is recommended to grow strawberries in high beds (the so-called).
The site must be prepared at least a month before planting. The earth needs to be dug up, cleared of weeds and fertilized (humus, compost, superphosphate, potash fertilizers, nitroammophoska). Attention should be paid to predecessor cultures. Good predecessors for strawberries are legumes, cereals, onions, lettuce, radishes, beets, carrots, garlic. It is best to land on a fallow site, although this is not always possible.
Before planting, the roots of plants must be cut, because. the root system still develops in the surface layer of the soil. The growth point must be placed flush with the ground, without deepening, and it is good to water the bush. At first, flower stalks need to be broken out so that the plant can take root well.
Cultivation and care
Strawberry care consists of regular watering and (if necessary) loosening the soil, mulching, pruning old and affected leaves. Growing in open ground and in a greenhouse has its own subtleties and features.
Moisture is one of the main components of good fruiting. It is advisable to keep the ground moist all the time during the growing season, because. drying out will damage the roots located in the surface layer of the soil. It is advisable to use mulching materials (hay, peat, compost, sawdust, mowed grass) or plant plants on a special film. This method of planting will help prevent weeds, reduce the frequency of watering and avoid the appearance of certain diseases, and the need for loosening will disappear. If mulching material is not used, loosen the topsoil regularly after each watering to ensure aeration.
With good soil preparation before planting in open ground, top dressing, especially for NSD varieties, is not needed. Varieties of DSD, growing for several years in one place, are fed with mineral fertilizers and mulched with compost. In greenhouses where soil volume is limited or plants are grown in containers, fertilization is mandatory.
Dutch technology is excellent for growing a greenhouse.
When the Dutch and Israeli technologies are widely used, when the plants are placed in hanging gutters. All the necessary substances the plant is obtained from the solution washing the roots.
Care in the greenhouse has one significant feature - the absence of pollinators, which are always enough in the open field. For normal pollination, hives with bees are brought into large greenhouse complexes, and in small greenhouses they are carried out manually.
Growing remontant strawberries at home is also quite realistic. The soil must be selected taking into account the fact that the plant will live in it for several years. Regular fertilizers with this method of growing are required, but you should not replant the plant. It is much more efficient to plant a young bush grown from a mustache.
Reproduction methods
There are 3 main methods of reproduction:
- seeds,
- mustache
- dividing the bush.
Seed propagation is the most time-consuming and requires skills. Strawberry seeds are very small, so they are simply scattered on the surface of the soil and they try to maintain high humidity all the time. Crops need regular ventilation. Seedlings at the age of two weeks dive into cups, and then planted in open ground.
Mustache breeding is the easiest and most natural way. The mother bush forms a mustache on which rosettes of young plants are formed. After rooting, they are separated and planted in a permanent place. It is possible to transplant young seedlings of remontant strawberries formed from mustaches to a permanent place in August-September.
By dividing the bush, beardless varieties of remontant strawberries are propagated. Only adult, well-formed bushes with several points of growth can be divided.
Diseases of remontant strawberries
Most often, remontant strawberries are affected by powdery mildew, brown spot and gray rot, which are also characteristic of traditional varieties. To prevent the occurrence of diseases, it is necessary to choose the right predecessor plants, and in the spring to carry out preventive treatment of plants with copper chloride (gray rot, brown spot), a solution of potassium permanganate or colloidal sulfur (powdery mildew).
Strawberries can be damaged by insect pests: strawberry mites, slugs and aphids. To combat them, acaricides are used, which are used to treat plants after harvesting.
Strawberries, or garden strawberries, open the long-awaited berry season. Numerous varieties give fruits of various shapes, sizes, shades of color and taste. For those who want to see these fragrant berries on their table before frost, it will be interesting to learn about growing remontant strawberries.
Peculiarities
Let's start with a definition. Remontant is the ability of some plants to repeatedly or repeatedly bear fruit. The remontant strawberry gives the first harvest in July, the second, the most plentiful, in August - early September. Strawberries are very sensitive to day length and are divided into three photoperiodic types:
- Short day. Habitual varieties with single fruiting in early summer. Buds are laid on a short day (less than 12 hours) at the end of summer, fruiting can occur already at an eight-hour day, but is limited by the low temperatures of the winter months and therefore occurs much later, at about 14 hours.
- Long day. Varieties of remontant strawberries that lay fruit buds with a day length of 16-17 hours (from late May to mid-July). They begin to bloom at a 12-hour day, the main crop is given at the end of summer.
- Neutral day. The laying of fruit buds and flowering does not depend on the length of the day and continues from early spring until the end of the growing season. This process in "neutrals" is undulating and occurs every 6 weeks. In the southern regions, these varieties can form 4 strawberry fruiting cycles in the open field. However, in dry times at 25 degrees, the pollen becomes sterile and no fruits are formed.
Therefore, the maximum yield of a neutral day variety is given in closed ground, where all conditions are created for its cultivation.
With such a heavy load, the plants age quickly, therefore, care for remontant strawberries needs to be more thorough and the plantations have to be updated more often.
Video “Features of care”
From the video you will learn how to properly care for remontant strawberries.
Preparing for landing
For planting remontant strawberries, well-lit places with light fertile soil are chosen. The site should be spacious, because bushes are planted at a fairly large distance from each other in order to be able to root the mustache that has appeared. The selected area must be cleared not only of weeds and any organic debris, but also of pests that can destroy an entire plantation of remontant strawberries. 
To combat the larvae of the May beetle, as a green manure, they plant mustard or treat the soil with the Aktara insecticide. Then they dig up the earth on the bayonet of a shovel, level it, breaking up the lumps. It will be possible to plant strawberries in three weeks, when the earth settles down. Freshly dug soil can expose the neck and roots of the plant after shrinkage, or, conversely, fill up the growing point.
Remontant strawberries, the cultivation and care of which require care, need well-fertilized soil. If the soil is poor, then along with digging, organic matter and phosphate fertilizers are applied. Caring for the future harvest includes the correct selection of varieties. The best varieties, according to experienced gardeners, are Ali Baba, Alexandri, Forest Fairy Tale, Ruyana, Baron Solemacher, Queen Elizabeth, Temptation, Diamant, Evi2, Moscow delicacy.
Among them there are both small-fruited and varieties with giant berries. If you are interested in any variety, you need to find out how it reproduces. It is better to buy seedlings of beardless varieties not on the market, but from serious producers, or grow them yourself from strawberry seeds. Growing from seeds cannot be called an easy way to breed remontant strawberries, but it is undeniable that it is the most inexpensive. 
How to grow seedlings from seeds? To do this, you will need a box and some garden soil. Sow seeds begin in January, if there is a possibility of additional seedling lighting, or in early March. Seeds of remontant strawberries are laid out on a napkin, soaked, covered with polyethylene and placed in a warm place until sprouts appear. Before sowing, you need to prepare the soil by disinfecting it in a preheated oven for 15-20 minutes. Hatched strawberry seeds are planted with a match or a toothpick.
Landing methods
How to plant remontant strawberries depends on the ability of the variety to form a mustache. Beardless varieties are best planted using the two-line method. Distance in a row - from 20 to 40 cm, between rows - 50 cm. The advantage of the method is the convenience of planting and care, as well as picking berries. It is better to grow remontant strawberries that throw out mustaches in a nested way with a distance between plants of at least 50 cm. This method allows you to grow both a good crop and high-quality home planting material.
At the same time, the plants are well lit, do not contact with each other and, therefore, do not become infected. The disadvantage of the method in large areas of unused land can be corrected by thickening the planting of remontant strawberries with garlic. Garlic grown in this way will not only bring a rich harvest, but also protect the plantation from slugs. 
Remontant strawberries are planted in a hole with dimensions of 20x20x20. A hill of nutrient mixture is poured at the bottom (on 1 bucket of earth - 2 cups of ash, 1 bucket of compost and 2 liters of biohumus), a seedling is placed and sprinkled with earth. In this case, the root neck should be at ground level. After that, the bushes are watered.
Remontant strawberries are planted from spring to autumn. Spring plantings will not produce many berries, but autumn plantings will bear fruit several times. It should not be delayed with planting in the fall; seedlings should take root before frost.
Care rules
The yield of plantings directly depends on how to care for remontant strawberries. It is necessary to carry out frequent loosening of the soil, protection from pests, regularly water, fertilize, remove leaves affected by diseases.
We can say that caring for remontant strawberries is the same as for ordinary ones. If you grow different varieties, then the first flower stalks on remontants can be cut off, then the subsequent harvest will be more abundant.
Preparing for winter
To protect plants from freezing, care must be taken to preserve the leaves that protect the main organ of the strawberry - the “heart”. To do this, the earth is loosened to a depth of 1.5 cm, trying not to damage the roots, fed with “Ammofoska” (1 tablespoon per square meter), mulched with humus and cut off flowers and berries. Leaves should not be touched. 
If the foliage freezes and turns black before the snow appears (this happens at -5 degrees), this will greatly weaken the plants.
Therefore, strawberries are covered with needles or leaves, and covered with a film on top. When a 10-centimeter layer of snow forms, the film is removed and thrown onto the beds of branches or spruce branches for snow retention.
10-12 centimeters of snow will protect strawberries from frosts down to -18 degrees, and a layer of 20 centimeters will be a talisman even when it drops to 30 degrees of cold. Plentiful snowfalls will preserve strawberries without any shelters.
Video “Growing from seeds”
From the video you will learn how to grow strawberries from seeds.
Remontant is the ability of plants to bear fruit repeatedly or repeatedly during one growing season. Remontant are observed in crops such as strawberries, strawberries, raspberries and some citrus fruits. In this article, we will introduce you to the rules for growing remontant strawberries: how to plant and care for remontant strawberries at different times of the year, how to protect them from pests and diseases, how to propagate and how to cut remontant strawberries.
Listen to article
- Landing: sowing seeds for seedlings in the middle lane - at the end of February or at the beginning of March, in warmer areas - two to three weeks later. Planting seedlings in the ground - in the middle or at the end of May.
- Lighting: bright sunlight.
- The soil: leveled, loamy or sandy, neutral or slightly acidic.
- Watering: after planting seedlings - daily, after rooting - once every 2-4 days. In the conditions of dry spring, the first watering of old bushes is carried out at the end of April, and in May and June another 3-4 waterings are carried out. From August to September, the plot is watered 2 times a month, trying to wet the soil to a depth of 2-3 cm.
- Top dressing: in just a season, 10-15 top dressings with organic and mineral fertilizers are carried out from spring to late autumn. From organics, slurry and a solution of chicken manure are preferred, from mineral complexes - Kemira Lux, Kristallin or Mortar.
- Pruning: in autumn, those leaves that may be affected by pests or infected with harmful plant microorganisms are carefully removed from the bushes. In the spring, old, overwintered leaves are removed. The mustache can be trimmed at any time.
- Reproduction: mustache, dividing the bush.
- Pests: aphids, wasps, strawberry mites, weevils, any beetles and their larvae, nematodes, ants, slugs and birds.
- Diseases: affected by gray rot, powdery mildew, white and brown spots and Fusarium wilt.
Read more about growing remontant strawberries below.
Remontant strawberry - description
Unlike ordinary strawberries, which lay fruit buds during short daylight hours, remontant crop varieties form them during long (LSD) or neutral (NSD) daylight hours. Remontant strawberries in the open field give two harvests of berries per season - in July and in August-September, and the second harvest is much more abundant than the first - from 60 to 90% of the total number of fruits per season. The problem is that not all bushes are able to withstand such a load, and many of them die after fruiting.
Sowing remontant strawberries
You can buy seedlings of remontant strawberries in a nursery or in a garden pavilion, or you can buy seeds and grow seedlings from them yourself. However, growing remontant strawberries from seeds suggests that soil moisture for sowing should be in the range of 70-80%. To achieve this, you need to pour 700-800 ml of water into 1 kg of dry substrate (light humus soil or universal soil) and mix this composition thoroughly so that no lumps remain. Then containers with a diameter of 10-15 cm are filled with moistened substrate, leaving 3 cm free to the edge.
Seeds of remontant strawberries are laid out on the surface of the substrate and sprinkled with a thin layer of dry substrate or sand, after which the crops are lightly sprayed from a fine spray, covered with film or glass and placed in a warm, bright place. Sowing is done in the middle lane in late February or early March, and in warmer areas 2-3 weeks earlier.
Caring for seedlings of remontant strawberries
Before the emergence of seedlings, the soil with crops is kept in a slightly damp state. If the room temperature is maintained at 18-20 ºC, seedlings may appear in 10-15 days. As soon as this happens, transfer the containers with sprouts to the windowsill of a well-lit window, and if this is difficult, arrange additional lighting for the seedlings so that they do not stretch. At this stage, seedlings need regular ventilation.
Remontant strawberry pick
In the development phase, seedlings have 2-3 true leaves, that is, after about one and a half to two months, they dive into spacious boxes or in separate pots. Transplant seedlings to the same depth at which they grew before picking. And one and a half to two weeks before planting the seedlings in open ground, the seedlings are subjected to hardening: they are taken out daily for some time to the balcony, terrace or courtyard, gradually increasing the duration of the session. As soon as the seedlings adapt to external conditions, they can be planted in the garden.
Planting remontant strawberries
When to plant remontant strawberries
Cultivation of remontant strawberries is best done on a site where vegetables such as radishes, parsley, legumes, carrots, beets, garlic, calendula and mustard grew before. And after crops such as potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, raspberries and cabbage, it is not recommended to grow remontant strawberries. A plot for strawberries is chosen sunny and leveled, on which water will not stagnate. Soils are preferred loamy and sandy loamy neutral or slightly acidic. Soddy-podzolic and peaty soils are not suitable for growing remontant strawberries.
Seedlings are planted around mid-May or a little later, when the threat of returning night frosts has passed. If you decide to plant remontant strawberry bushes before winter, then it is better to do this from mid-August to the end of September.
The soil for remontant strawberries must be prepared in advance: for spring planting - from autumn, and for autumn in spring. Dig up the ground in the area with a pitchfork, clearing the place of future planting from weeds and introducing into the soil a bucket of humus, manure or compost and 5 kg of wood ash for each m². A month before planting seedlings, add 20 g of potassium sulfate and 40 g of superphosphate to the soil, or one tablespoon of Kalijfos for each m² of area.
Planting remontant strawberries in spring
Seedlings of remontant strawberries are planted in two ways - carpet and ordinary. With the carpet method, seedlings are planted according to the scheme of 20x20 cm, and with the ordinary method, a distance of 20-25 cm is kept between seedlings in a row, and 70 cm between rows.
On a cloudy day, make holes in the area, water them and transfer seedlings into them along with an earthen clod. You can plant two seedlings in one hole. When planting seedlings, make sure that the roots in the hole do not bend, and the hearts are just above the surface of the plot. Thoroughly press the soil around the bushes so that there are no voids in the roots, and water the strawberries.
Planting remontant strawberries in autumn
If you plant a remontant strawberry in the spring, its fruiting will most likely begin only in a year, and besides, not everywhere in mid-May the soil is already warm enough for heat-loving remontant varieties to immediately begin to grow and develop. Therefore, gardeners are increasingly resorting to the autumn planting of remontant strawberries, especially since the technique for its implementation has been worked out to the subtleties.
Planting remontant strawberries in late summer or early autumn gives it time to take root and get stronger for the winter without such interference as harmful insects and pathogens of fungal diseases. Remontant strawberries are planted in the ground in the fall in the same order as in the spring.
Caring for remontant strawberries in spring
The care and cultivation of remontant strawberries is somewhat different from the cultivation of ordinary garden strawberries. The berries of remontant varieties are large in size - some of them can reach a mass of 100 g, but such success is possible only if the conditions of the agricultural technology of the culture are observed.
After the spring planting of strawberries, it is advisable to mulch the bed with straw, peat, pine needles, sawdust, or cover it with black agrofiber - this measure will allow moisture to remain in the soil longer, and it will not be possible to water the strawberries so often. In general, caring for remontant strawberries includes watering them, carefully loosening the soil around the bushes, timely removal of weeds from the bed, regular feeding and protection from diseases and pests.
In early spring, old yellow leaves are removed from last year's remontant strawberries and ammonium nitrate is added to the soil. The next nitrogen top dressing is made at the end of May.
The remontant strawberries bear fruit for the first time in the spring, but it makes sense to sacrifice the spring harvest in order to collect more berries in the fall, especially since the spring remontant berries are much inferior in taste to the fruits of ordinary garden strawberries. And if, in addition to remontant varieties, you also grow ordinary ones, enjoy their fruits in the spring, and remove flower stalks from remontant strawberries as soon as they appear, and then the bushes will retain their strength for abundant autumn fruiting and give you berries of much higher taste.
However, this technique is effective only for annual and biennial bushes. Although if you take good care of remontant strawberries and fertilize regularly, you will be able to pick berries from it twice a season.
How to care for remontant strawberries in summer
How to care for remontant strawberries in summer? After you take the first harvest, you need to prepare the remontant strawberries for the second fruiting. To do this, you need to regularly fertilize, water and loosen the soil around the bushes. To enhance re-blooming, cut the leaves, trying not to damage the apical bud. However, in some remontant varieties, fruits are also formed on whisker rosettes, so it is better not to cut the leaves of such strawberries.
Remontant strawberries in the summer, in August, begin their second fruiting.
Caring for remontant strawberries in the fall
Very often, after the second fruiting, one has to plant new remontant bushes, since not every plant can withstand such a serious load. On average, with good care, a remontant strawberry bush lives and bears fruit for three years, but a lot depends not only on your efforts, but also on the climatic conditions of the area and the composition of the soil.
Watering remontant strawberries
There is a special scheme for moistening beds with strawberries, since the crop has a superficial root system, and it cannot take moisture from the deep layers of the soil, while strawberry leaves evaporate moisture intensively. Moisturize remontant strawberries, like garden ones, regularly, but it needs moisture even more than ordinary varieties, especially in extreme heat and during the fruiting period. Watering is carried out early in the morning or in the evening and only with warm water.
After planting, young bushes are watered daily for the first few days, and then they switch to watering once every 2-4 days. For last year's bushes, the first spring watering, subject to a small amount of natural precipitation, is carried out at the end of April. In May and June, 3-4 more waterings should be carried out, and from August to September, remontant strawberries are watered at least twice a month. The soil in the beds should be moistened to a depth of 2-3 cm. The next day after watering or after rain, the soil around the bushes should be loosened to provide strawberry roots with air and destroy the crust that forms on the surface.
We remind you that mulching the beds or covering the area with black agrofibre will allow you to spend less time and effort on watering, weeding and loosening the soil in beds with remontant strawberries.
Top dressing remontant strawberries
Fertilizing remontant strawberries is one of the most important conditions for obtaining high yields and prolonging the life of plants, since they need a constant supply of potassium and nitrogen. Particularly dependent on top dressing varieties NSD. Phosphorus, if it was applied in the required amount before planting, is no longer required to be applied to the soil in the current season, you can mulch the bed with humus, spending 2-3 kg per m², or manure at the rate of 5-6 kg per unit area .
At the end of May, remontant strawberries are fertilized with a one-two percent solution of urea, and around the second half of June, during the extension of second crop peduncles, the beds can be watered with a solution of chicken manure or slurry, for which a bucket of manure is diluted with 8-10 parts of water, and a bucket of concentrated slurry - 3-4 parts.
In total, from 10 to 15 complex dressings are carried out per season. Remontant strawberries are fertilized until late autumn, while its roots are vegetating, otherwise it will retire weakened and exhausted. Not only organic, but also mineral fertilizers are used for top dressing, for example, Mortar, Kemiru Lux or Crystallin.
Remontant strawberry transplant
Actually, it makes no sense to replant remontant strawberry bushes, since it is short-lived and usually lasts no more than three to four years, even with very good care. And we will tell you about how to transplant the resulting daughter outlets in the section on the propagation of remontant varieties.
But if you still have a need to transplant strawberry bushes, you should understand that in the fall this is done no later than three weeks before frost. Transplanting remontant strawberries in the spring will deprive you of the opportunity to get a quick harvest, so transplant them as early as possible before the flower stalks appear, and then you can get the first berries after mid-July. If flower stalks have already appeared, you will have to remove them to allow the strawberries to expend energy on successful rooting and adaptation, and not on flowering.
Pruning remontant strawberries
Pruning remontant strawberries in autumn
After the end of autumn fruiting, you need to carefully remove the leaves from the bushes, trying not to damage the axils of the upper leaves, since it is in them that the plant lays the fruit buds of the next year. The leaves are removed in order to get rid of possible infections and pests - only mature healthy shoots will remain overwintering. Pruning remontant strawberries should be completed with preventive treatment of the site from diseases and pests.
As for the mustache, they can be trimmed throughout the season, or you can not cut it at all. Some gardeners believe that they should be cut off so that the plantings do not thicken, but others argue that some varieties of remontant strawberries bear fruit on daughter outlets growing on mustaches, so you can’t cut off the mustache, and so that the plantings do not overgrow, you just need to plant bushes at a considerable distance from each other. However, on the eve of winter, if you are going to cut the leaves of remontant strawberries, you should also cut off the mustache.
Pruning strawberries in spring remontant
In the spring, old, yellow, overwintered leaves are cut from the strawberry bushes, if you did not cut them the previous fall, after which the remontant strawberries are treated for diseases and pests. And I must say that many gardeners prefer to cut remontant strawberries in the spring.
Propagation of remontant strawberries
We have already described the propagation of remontant strawberries by seed seedlings. How else can you propagate this type of strawberry?
Reproduction of remontant strawberries with a mustache
If you want to expand your garden of remontant strawberries with rooted tendrils, you will have to sacrifice a second crop. During the first fruiting, mark for yourself the strongest and most developed annual bushes, spread their first whiskers into grooves made along the side of the bed, and the rest of the whiskers will have to be cut off so that they do not weaken the mother bush. After a while, sprouts will begin to appear on the mustache, but you will need to leave only the first rosettes. Trim the second order whiskers, but do not separate the first rosettes from the mother plant.
While they are gaining volume and strength, water and weed the soil around them. A week before transplanting rosettes to a permanent place, separate them from the mother plant, and then transplant them, as described at the beginning of the article.
Propagation of remontant strawberries by dividing the bush
This method of propagation of remontant strawberries is used when there is not enough planting material. Developed bushes of two, three and four years of age with strong roots are divided - by this age, the bush has already formed many shoots-horns, each of which has a rosette of leaves. Such a bush is dug up in early spring or autumn, carefully divided into horns, and then planted in a garden bed.
Remontant strawberries in winter
With the onset of autumn, strawberry watering is gradually reduced, its sanitary pruning is carried out, if there is confidence that the remontant strawberries should be cut in the fall, preventive treatment is carried out against diseases and pests, after which they allow the remontant strawberry to survive a couple of frosts and only after that they cover it for the winter with non-woven material, although where winters are short and mild, sawdust, fallen leaves, hay or straw can be used as shelter. Old bushes, which are unlikely to bear fruit next season, need to be dug up before the first snow.
Pests and diseases of remontant strawberries
Diseases of remontant strawberries
Remontant strawberries suffer from the same diseases as ordinary garden strawberries: gray rot, powdery mildew, white and brown spots and fusarium wilt.
Remontant strawberry pests
Of the pests, aphids, wasps, strawberry mites, weevils, beetles and their larvae, nematodes, ants, slugs and birds most often affect remontant strawberries. Diseases and pests of remontant strawberries, as well as ways to get rid of them, are described in detail in an article already posted on our website.
Varieties of remontant strawberries
As already mentioned, varieties of remontant strawberries are of two types - NSD (neutral daylight hours) and DSD (long daylight hours). The former bear fruit continuously, while the latter produce two or three crops per season. In addition, remontant varieties are divided into those that form mustaches and those that do not form them, as well as small-fruited and large-fruited. We offer you a description of varieties of remontant strawberries for growing in warm regions, in the middle lane and Siberia.
Varieties of remontant strawberries for the Moscow region
The best varieties of remontant strawberries for the Moscow region:
- Aromas- highly productive variety resistant to powdery mildew and strawberry mites with large, dense, shiny berries of high taste;
- Vima Rina- a Dutch variety of a neutral day, almost not forming a mustache, starting fruiting in the second half of June and ceasing to form fruits with the first frost. The berries of this variety are dark red in color, large - weighing up to 75 g, not very dense in texture, with high taste;
- hybrid Tristan is a compact, early-flowering variety with almost no whiskers and bears fruit throughout the summer with dark red, medium-sized, sweet berries. The flowers of this variety are large, juicy pink;
- Garland- one of the best remontant varieties, which has no equal in terms of productivity. In addition, it is highly decorative, since flowers, ovaries, and red sweet fruits weighing about 40 g can be seen on the bush at the same time. Strawberries of this variety are grown both in beds and in vertical culture;
- Diamond- An American high-yielding variety with the best taste indicators to date. Diamond fruits are dense, large - up to 50 g in weight, shiny, dark red. Since the pulp of the berries is light, it is not used for processing. Bushes of this variety are able to form a mustache, which greatly facilitates its reproduction.
In addition to those described, remontant strawberries for the Moscow Region of the varieties Cascade, Cardinal, Queen Elizabeth 2, Ostara, Sweet Evi, Evis Delight, Evi 2, Elsanta, Selva, Figaro, Florin, Floriant, Everest, hybrids Merlan, Pikan, Roman and others .
Varieties of remontant strawberries for Siberia
It is not easy to grow heat-loving plants in the harsh Siberian climate, and not every strawberry variety will be able to fully develop and bear fruit in such conditions. However, there are varieties that can be grown here too: they give the first harvest along with ordinary garden strawberries, and in order to wait for the second harvest, you will have to use a film to cover the beds. The best varieties for Siberia are:
- Queen Elizabeth 2- a winter-hardy variety with early fruiting, the berries of which are bright red, of excellent taste, with dense pulp, sometimes reaching 100-110 g in weight;
- Mount Everest- unpretentious to the composition of the soil, resistant to diseases and pests, a variety with powerful, densely leafy bushes, tall peduncles and bright red small berries of a conical shape and good taste. This variety forms mustaches only in the first year of growth;
- Inexhaustible- a large-fruited productive variety, bred by crossing the Inexhaustible and Upper Silesia varieties and forming medium height, slightly spreading bushes with large dark green foliage, on which large, blunt, shiny berries ripen with excellent taste. The pulp of the berries of this variety is light pink in color. Mustache variety forms little, it is also susceptible to powdery mildew;
- Russian size- large-fruited hybrid variety, resistant to frost and diseases, with juicy berries of excellent taste;
- Ada- high-yielding variety of German selection, capable of forming a large number of mustaches. The berries are bright red, medium size, shiny, elongated-conical, with an average weight of 5-6 g. The pulp is white with a red core, loose, pleasant sour-sweet taste. The disadvantage of the variety is the instability to the strawberry mite and white leaf spot;
- Diva- also a hybrid variety with powerful bushes, tall peduncles and bright red sweet berries.
In order to determine which variety of remontant strawberries is better than others, you need to be aware of what you expect from it. Some gardeners are more interested in the size of the berries, others in the taste, and still others in the ability to form a mustache, because it is desirable to be able to propagate the variety you like. We offer you a description of different varieties, and you will determine for yourself which one you need. So, the best remontant strawberry:
- Brighton- a beardless variety of NSD, bred by American breeders. In protected ground conditions, this strawberry bears fruit for up to 10 months a year, and in open ground - from spring to late autumn. The fruits of this variety, red, shiny, sweet and sour in taste, reach a weight of 50 g. During the period of cooling, they become larger and stretch. The variety is distinguished by cold resistance, as well as resistance to diseases and pests;
- Crimean remontant- one of the best DSD varieties of Ukrainian selection - high-yielding, continuously fruiting from late May to October. The berries of this variety are leveled, juicy, large, dark red in color, with the aroma of wild strawberries. The advantages of the variety are also high decorativeness, winter hardiness, resistance to strawberry mites and diseases. The crop is formed both on bushes and on rosettes;
- autumn fun- one of the first varieties of DSD of Soviet selection, bearing fruit twice a season. Juicy fruits of this variety reach 20 g in weight, have dense pulp and excellent dessert taste. The variety forms a mustache, resistant to nematodes, strawberry mites and fungal diseases;
- Novel- a hybrid variety of NSD, which differs from others in its high decorative effect due to pink flowers on long peduncles, effectively standing out against the background of juicy green leaves. Strawberries bear fruit in protected ground with proper care up to 10 months a year. The fruits are leveled, weighing up to 25 g, excellent taste and pleasant aroma;
- San Rival- a variety of French selection of medium yield. The first berries of the crop are irregularly shaped, ribbed, comb-shaped. Subsequently, the fruits develop of medium size, rounded, without a neck, shiny and pubescent. The taste of berries is sweet and sour, the pulp is juicy and tender. The advantage of the variety is also the ability to form a large number of mustaches, which greatly facilitates the cultivation of strawberries;
- Selva- a variety of American selection, bred by crossing Brighton, Pajero and Tufts varieties. The bushes are vigorous, with large leaves, but compact. The berries are large, light red, elastic, shiny, cone-shaped, with dense juicy pulp, but have a rustic taste and inexpressive aroma. The variety is resistant to diseases of roots and leaves, but does not differ in frost resistance;
- Herzberg Triumph- a winter-hardy variety that forms many mustaches, bred by German breeders, with dark red, shiny truncated-conical small berries weighing up to 6.5 g with dense, but tender and juicy pulp of a sweet taste. The disadvantage of the variety is instability to angular and white spots;
- yellow wonder- a beardless variety for lovers of curiosities. This is a yellow remontant strawberry resistant to diseases and pests with medium-sized fruits weighing up to 3 g of an elongated conical shape, growing on compact bushes up to 25 cm high. The variety does not differ in special aroma.
Recently, breeders have developed new varieties and hybrids of remontant strawberries that may be of interest to gardeners. For example:
- Albion- resistant to weather stresses, anthracnose, late blight, rot and wilt, California variety with dark red, large shiny conical fruits, a unique strong aroma and intense sweet taste. The fruits ripen well to the very tip. Young leaves are highly lustrous;
- Gigantella Maxi- a Dutch variety with very large berries, reaching 100 g in weight;
- Crown- also a Dutch variety with fragrant red fruits of excellent taste, which tolerate transportation well;
- kimberley- a variety with sweet red berries, reminiscent of caramel in taste;
- Galya Chiv- a new highly productive Italian large-fruited variety - the average weight of bright red fruits, characterized by high sugar content, 45 g;
- Lyubava (or Lyubasha)- unpretentious, high-yielding and most winter-hardy of all remontant varieties with small dark red oval-rhombic berries weighing 20-30 g, with an intense taste and aroma. This strawberry forms berries both on bushes and on rosettes, therefore it is used for vertical cultivation;
- Portola- high-yielding variety, bred in 2009 in California. Its large, shiny, regular conical fruits are similar to Albion berries, but slightly lighter and more harmonious taste, almost devoid of acid. Fruit weight is about 30 g. The variety can be grown both in protected and open ground. The disadvantages of the variety is the instability to fungal and viral diseases; Plants on R
After this article, they usually read
Remontant strawberry varieties are demanding for watering and top dressing, and some of them do not breed with a mustache. At the same time, these plants are highly resistant to diseases and do not require shelter for the winter. Due to the continuous flowering, the crop can be harvested from early June to late August. It is recommended to select varieties for planting on the plot that are different in terms of ripening, then it will be possible to feast on ripe sweet berries almost all summer.
What does remontant strawberry mean?
Strawberries of remontant varieties have several flowering cycles and bear fruit several times during the summer with breaks of 1.5–2 weeks. The ripening period of berries can last until the end of September, especially in the southern regions of Russia.
Remontant strawberries can be enjoyed until frost
This variety of strawberries does not tolerate drafts and shading, but winters well without shelter. Modern selection allows you to enjoy berries:
- white-fruited, red, yellow, orange;
- different shapes and sizes;
- with classic strawberry flavor, nutmeg notes and pineapple aroma.
Different varieties of remontant strawberries differ in shape, color and taste.
Repair varieties are plants of neutral daylight hours, regardless of the season, the fruiting of the berry crop is not interrupted, so the plant is often grown in pots on the windowsill. These strawberries need to be changed every two to three years, it is better to have beds of different ages in the garden plot: last year's plants will give the smallest crop in the third year.
The ability of remontant strawberries to lay buds at any time of the year, regardless of the duration of daylight hours, does not guarantee a stable crop in greenhouses. The size and taste of home-grown berries is significantly different from summer strawberries ripening in the beds. Even if you manage to get berries on the windowsill, they may be smaller and more sour.
Table: advantages and disadvantages of remontant strawberries
How to grow remontant strawberries
In order for sweet, fragrant berries to grow one to one all summer in the garden, you need to take seriously the choice of the location of the strawberries on the site and the preparation of the seat. It is necessary to carry out watering, treatment from pests and weeding in time, remove dry and damaged leaves from the site.
Regular removal of weeds and loosening of the soil between the rows are mandatory activities in strawberry beds
Planting a remontant strawberry
Strawberries are planted in the spring: from March 20 to mid-May, and in the fall in early September (until the 10th). When planted in spring, the plant develops a strong root system during the summer and gives the first modest harvest for testing. Most often, in the spring, young seedlings grown from seeds are planted, and separated mother bushes are two-year-olds.
In the south, strawberries begin to be planted from the first decade of March, in the middle lane from the end of March to the last decade of April. In the north, the best time for planting remontant strawberries is the third decade of May.
In autumn, planting begins on the 20th of August and is completed by September 10th. In order for the bushes to take root, it is necessary to plant 3 weeks before the predicted frost. Autumn planting is suitable for propagation of strawberries with a mustache, at this time the layers have well-developed roots.
When planting remontant strawberries at any time of the year, the daytime temperature should not be lower than +15 +18 ° С, at night above +5 ° С. The beds are placed to the southeast, best of all - to the south.
A plot for strawberries is chosen sunny, located on a hill
Soil preparation for planting
Remontant strawberries grow well on loose light soils, sandy loam or loam with the addition of fertile peat 2-3 buckets per 1 m 2, chicken manure is enough 1.5 buckets per 1 m 2 or 2 buckets of cow manure for the same area. Before planting, the area is cleared of weeds, roots and stones. To improve soil aeration and enrichment with useful substances, future beds are sown with green manure (phacelia, mustard, oats). This is done in the year preceding planting.
Oats are an excellent siderat of the cereal family, suitable for planting in future beds for strawberries
Since autumn, I bring ammonium nitrate (100 g) per square meter, half a bucket of ash and superphosphate (100–120 g) to the place of the future bed. And also in the process of preparing the site, I add a couple of buckets of rotted manure or when planting 1-2 handfuls in each hole, soil fertility is of great importance for remontant varieties.
Svetlanahttp://dachniiotvet.galaktikalife.ru/viewtopic.php?f=205&t=48&sid=
How to grow remontant strawberry varieties from seeds
It is best to plant remontant strawberry seeds after stratification (keeping seeds at a certain temperature to accelerate germination). They start sowing in late January - early February, the planting time is selected so that by the time of relocation to the open ground, the plant is fully formed and strengthened. With late sowing (at the end of February), seedlings will have to be planted on the site in the summer heat. In this case, fragile young plants require shading and regular watering, that is, later planting is more troublesome.
For the first time, I planted remontant strawberry seeds in yogurt jars. Small and comfortable, they easily fit in the hand, it was possible to observe how barely noticeable shoots hatched. But after a month and a half, when the plants had three leaves, the bushes had to be planted, as the soil in a small container quickly dried out. Important: strawberry seedlings do not tolerate waterlogging and drought in the same way, this causes instant death of fragile shoots.
I had to transplant small seedlings into cut-off liter plastic bottles (10 cm deep). In this dish, the bushes lived quietly until they moved to the ground. But the next time I took flower pots with a volume of 1.5 and 2 liters - this seemed the most convenient for watering and loosening. A week after the emergence of seedlings, she fed the sprouts with baker's yeast: she took dry yeast on the tip of a knife per liter of warm water, such top dressing occurred regularly (every 5–7 days). Every two weeks I watered under the root with complex preparations: once with Aquarin, the second time with a humatized additive. The next top dressing was carried out at the end of April already on a garden bed in open ground (mullein tincture on water at a ratio of 1: 3 with the addition of 100 g of ash per bucket of solution).
For planting, choose dishes 10 cm deep filled with moist soil mixture, seeds are carefully scattered over the surface
At first, the container with seeds is covered with cling film to create a mini-greenhouse. After the seedlings hatch, the film will only harm - in such conditions, fungi and mold quickly develop on the surface of the soil. Sprouts are placed on the south window, excluding direct sunlight on the plants. Water gently under the root or spray as the soil surface dries. With a thin stick or the tip of a knife, gently loosen the top layer of soil along the mini-bed to improve air exchange in the roots.
Fragile strawberry sprouts require careful handling
In the care of strawberry sprouts for the first two months, the main thing is not to harm. The most accurate watering is obtained from a syringe, it allows you to irrigate only the surface of the soil, it is easy to calculate the dosage of water down to drops. It is convenient to loosen with a regular toothpick. If thin shoots are watered too heavily, they can stick to the soil and break. Loosening is also a delicate job, if you accidentally pick up fragile and long hair roots, the plant can be pulled out of the soil.
Video: remontant strawberries from seeds
At the phase of three or four leaves, strawberries dive, when the fifth and sixth leaves appear, the plant can be moved to open ground. Pre-seedlings are taken out for hardening on a balcony or veranda. This is done daily for 2-4 hours a week before placing seedlings in a permanent place.
To get seed at home, the berries are well kneaded in warm water, after 10–15 minutes the seeds settle to the bottom of the dish. The contents are poured onto the surface of the prepared soil substrate and covered with a film for germination.
Seedlings of remontant varieties are planted on beds, the predecessors of which were green manure, root crops, and melons. It is better to do this in the morning or evening hours in cloudy weather at a temperature of + 15 + 20 ° C. In adult seedlings, the roots are shortened to 7–10 cm.
- Before planting, the soil in the beds is mixed with superphosphate (150 g per 1 m 2) and 1.5–2 buckets per square meter of rotted soft manure. The width of the beds is 2–3 meters, the distance between the bushes: 25–30 cm for small-fruited remontants, about 40 cm for large-fruited varieties.
- In the holes, deepenings are made by 10 cm and watered (a liter per bush is enough).
- The plants are carefully removed from the container for seedlings, trying not to damage the long, thin roots, lowered into the planting hole and gently sprinkled with soil. It is important to make sure that the growth point remains not sprinkled, and the leaves do not stick together and do not wrinkle.
- The root space is mulched with small sawdust.
When planting, make sure that the plant is not too deep.
When the beds are ready, I form holes in which I put 2-3 granules of the drug from the bear. It is this pest that most often does not allow plants to develop, eating roots and young shoots at the base of the root. Since high humidity is always maintained on the strawberry beds after planting in order for the cuttings and seedlings to take root, the bear will definitely settle in the neighborhood. The pest prefers moist, loose soil; it is this soil that is prepared for planting strawberries.
After 2-3 weeks, the first leaf will appear from the central bud. It's time to make the first top dressing with mineral fertilizers for seedlings (according to the instructions). The next fertilization is organized after 2 weeks, an infusion of organic matter and ash is prepared (1 kg of fresh manure, boric acid 1–2 g and half a glass of ash per 5 liters of warm water) and 250–300 g is used per bush. The first two weeks, seedlings are watered in the beds every 3-4 days.
Strawberry seedlings are ready for transplanting into open ground
If the weather is hot, the beds are shaded for the first time. To do this, pieces of slate are dug along the beds, leaving 20–30 cm above the ground. Strawberry seedlings are very sensitive to the sun, in the heat the leaves quickly turn yellow and deteriorate.
Hope K.
Planting scheme for remontant strawberries
Strawberries are planted in well-lit areas, if necessary, the plant tolerates partial shade without damage to the crop, provided that this happens periodically during the day. Plantings try not to thicken, they are placed in one or two rows, with a solid carpet or tapeworms on decorative flower beds. But it is also convenient to grow this culture in greenhouses and greenhouses, in flower containers at home on the window. Strawberries get along well next to currants and gooseberries, onions and garlic, carrots, radishes, green peas, undersized annual flowers.
Remontant varieties bloom profusely for a long time, decorating any corner of the garden
In single-row beds 60–70 cm wide, bushes are placed at intervals of 40–50 cm. Such plantings are easy to process from weeds, strawberries are not thickened, so they ripen faster and rot less.
Remontant strawberries are placed on the plot in a single row
But more often, remontant strawberries are planted in a two-line bush method. Form two beds at a distance of 60–80 cm from each other. Strawberries are planted in a row, retreating 30-40 cm from each next bush.
The two-line method of planting strawberries simplifies weeding and watering, avoids weathering and drying out of the soil
Often, in the first year of planting, remontant strawberries, capable of growing mustaches, are planted in one row. During the growing season, all the mustaches that the mother bushes have thrown out are directed parallel to the bed, placing young shoots in pre-prepared holes with a nutrient substrate. This method allows you to form the second row of strawberries.
Video: planting schemes for remontant strawberries
For mulching strawberry beds in the aisle in summer, I use ordinary cardboard boxes from products (unassembled), which are disposed of by grocery stores - neatly, environmentally friendly and economically. This mulch is just enough for the summer. Over the winter, the paper rots and decomposes.
Photo gallery: ways to place strawberries in the garden
Solitaire planting option - strawberries in a wooden box Strawberries grow in a round flower bed no worse than in a garden bed Strawberries can braid the entire plot - carpet planting Strawberries remontant bear fruit even in a pot
Propagation of strawberries
Bushes of remontant varieties age very quickly due to the heavy load, the main crop is obtained in the first year of fruiting, less plentiful - in the second year. It is necessary to take care of the planting material of the remontants in advance. It is recommended to update the beds annually by planting young offspring or delenki on the site (a bush divided into several parts with a developed root system).
The division of the bush
By dividing the bush, mainly beardless small-fruited strawberries reproduce.
- The plant is dug up and divided into several bushes with roots and central buds.
- Lowered into a hole watered with water.
- Sprinkle the roots, lightly tamping the surface of the soil with your hands.
- Mulch with hay or oilcloth.
Mustache breeding
Propagation of garden remontant strawberries with a mustache usually does not cause difficulties. Plants are planted in the same way as young seedlings, keeping the distance between the bushes and rows.
Video: how to get a lot of mustache from remontant strawberries
Seedlings of layering can be obtained by tucking them around the mother bush into the soil or lowering them into cups with prepared fertile substrate. After rooting, well-developed large bushes (of the first and second order) with 2-3 leaves are selected and transplanted to a permanent place. For breeding with mustaches, separate beds are often taken away, with wider aisles - up to a meter, the distance between individual mother bushes is left 50–60 cm, making room for the mustache.
Video: mustache propagation of strawberries
The peculiarity of remontant strawberries with a mustache is that a large number of offspring appear in the first year of the growing season, so the main period of reproduction with a mustache is the first year of the plant's life. During the ripening of berries, it is recommended to cut off the mustache, the more mustaches on the plant, the less plentiful the harvest and the smaller the berry.
Care for remontant strawberries after planting
During the growing season, remontants yield several times more than ordinary traditional strawberry varieties, so they need fertile soil and regular feeding with organic matter. The surface of the beds is mulched to preserve soil moisture and protect the berries from rot during fruiting. Straw, hay, sawdust, needles, as well as oilcloth and lutrasil are used as mulch.
Natural materials are considered budgetary and do not require extra financial costs.
Strawberries are regularly loosened, young shoots (whiskers) must be removed if they do not need to be rooted for reproduction.
Video: care for remontant strawberries
Watering
Strawberries are watered regularly, especially in hot, sunny weather. The irrigation process is carried out in the evening or in the morning, until the air is heated above +25 °C. For irrigation use settled water not lower than 15–20 ° C. Plants are watered under the root during the period of mass flowering and during fruit ripening, before and after flowering, the sprinkling method is used. The best option is drip irrigation of berry plantations.
The ideal option for irrigating strawberry beds is drip irrigation
top dressing
There are many options for fertilizing strawberries:
- nitroammophoska (potassium + phosphorus + nitrogen), superphosphate, potassium sulfate, urea;
- organics in the form of chicken manure (solution 1:20), cow manure (solution 1:10);
- iodine, boric acid and manganese;
- biological products (for example, Kemira);
- top dressing of own preparation (infusion of herbs, baker's yeast, wood ash).
Strawberries are fed twice before flowering and 1-2 times in the intervals between the subsequent formation of peduncles.
- Organics are applied during the flowering period and during the formation of ovaries - early-mid May.
- Nitrogen fertilizers (urea) are applied in early spring, in late July - early August, when there is a break between fruiting, mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium are applied, this will accelerate the formation of next year's flower buds.
Before fertilizing, the bushes are loosened to a depth of 7–10 cm, then they are fed “under the root” and watered abundantly
Video: homemade strawberry dressing
How to feed remontant strawberries in a pot
When growing strawberries in a pot culture, it is necessary to carefully monitor soil moisture and fertilize regularly. In containers, the soil quickly dries out and becomes less fertile, as can be judged by the yellowness of the lower leaves, crushed berries and slow plant growth.
- Kemira, Kemira Lux and other complex chlorine-free preparations are used as mineral fertilizers when grown in a pot (according to instructions).
- Regular organics in the calculation of 1 kg of fresh cow manure per 5-liter bottle gives good results. The mixture is infused for a day and watered under the root of the plant - 150–200 g per bush.
- You can brew nettle or a mixture of herbs - dandelion, wormwood, tansy - 200 g of fresh raw materials per 3 liters of water. The broth is allowed to brew for 6-8 hours and strawberries are poured over them. Such top dressing under the root not only enriches the soil, but also disinfects it.
Preparing for winter
Closer to winter - from mid-September until early October, depending on the variety and region - the plants are prepared for wintering. At this time, watering is reduced and sanitary pruning of dry and damaged leaves is carried out. Cut out the whiskers that appear before the first frost and pull nutrients from the plant. In the northern regions, strawberries are covered with straw (a layer of 5–10 cm) to protect them from freezing.
Strawberries are insulated for the winter with a layer of straw
Preventive treatment for diseases and pests
Spring treatment of strawberry plantings with urea and spraying with Topaz helps to fight gray rot (early-mid-March before the start of active growth).
To control pests, the beds are shed with a solution of hydrogen peroxide (10 ml per 10-liter bucket of water). And also make a solution of two glasses of ash, filled with boiling water, add 2 g of boric acid, 2 g of potassium permanganate and 1 tablespoon of iodine. The mixture is abundantly sprayed with bushes in dry calm weather.
Evgenia Yurievnahttp://forum.vinograd.info/archive/index.php?t-2889.html
To get rid of slugs that spoil the crop and damage the leaves, planks or pieces of roofing material 30 by 50 cm in size are laid out along the beds.
If you do not stop during the attack of slugs, you can lose most of the crop
In preparation for wintering, strawberry beds are loosened and the soil is cultivated with a solution of Karbofos (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of warm water are preliminarily infused for 3-4 hours).
Varieties of remontant strawberries with a description and characteristics
There are several varieties of remontant strawberries with and without mustaches, which can be grown in open ground, in ampelous form and in a greenhouse.
Table: the most famous self-pollinating varieties of remontant strawberries with a description and characteristics
| Variety name | Description and characteristics |
| Ruyana (Czech selection) |
|
| Rügen (German selection) |
|
| Baron Solemacher (Dutch selection) |
|
| Holiday (American selection) |
|
Photo gallery of famous self-pollinated varieties of remontant strawberries
The unpretentious Ruyana takes root and bears fruit equally well on loose sandy soils and on heavy black earth. Fragrant berries of the Rügen variety ripen in early June. 
From one bush of strawberries Holiday you can collect up to 7 kg of berries
Beardless remontant strawberry varieties with a description and characteristics
Such strawberries do not have the additional load that bushes receive, giving abundant mustaches during fruiting.
- Beardless remontants are easily propagated by dividing the bush and seeds.
- Resistant to low temperatures.
- Differ in a longer period of ripening berries.
Table: the best remontant varieties of strawberries without a mustache
| Variety name | Description and characteristics |
| Snow White (Russian selection) |
|
| Wima Rina (Dutch selection) |
|
| Strawberry Yellow Wonder (Danish selection) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Photo gallery: the best remontant varieties of strawberries without a mustache
Snow white with subtle pineapple notes due to the absence of red pigment is suitable for allergy sufferers Wim Rina's berries are similar to garden strawberries with traditional fruiting when fully ripe Strawberry Coquette is similar to meadow strawberries both in taste and shape Fragrant jam is obtained from Ali Baba small-fruited strawberries
Varieties of ampel remontant strawberry with description and characteristics
The advantages of ampelous varieties are that they are not only decorative, but also allow you to enjoy healthy berries all summer long.
The large-fruited strawberry Garland bears fruit from the end of June almost to the beginning of September, it breeds with a mustache. Pale pink berries with sourness weigh up to 30 g, have the shape of a cone. Since ampelous hybrids most often grow in flowerpots and pots, there should be good drainage at the bottom of the planting container, the surface must be constantly loosened - the variety does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil.
Remontant strawberry Garland does not tolerate waterlogging, resistant to gray rot
Strawberry Temptation with red elongated berries (weight up to 35 g) looks decorative and decorates the beds thanks to high shoots with numerous flowers. A lush bush is tied to a trellis or allowed to hang freely, while a pot of strawberries is hung at a distance of 1.5–2 meters from the ground in a sunny, draft-free place. It is slightly resistant to frost.
Strawberry Temptation cannot stand low temperatures, it is grown in the southern regions and in the south of the Black Earth Region
Remontant varieties of strawberries for greenhouses with a description and characteristics
For indoor cultivation, experts recommend the well-known remontant variety Elizabeth 2 with long continuous fruiting, small-fruited Alexandria, a hybrid of the Czech selection Selva. These varieties of strawberries are cultivated for a year-round crop in greenhouses.
Table: remontant varieties of strawberries for greenhouses
| Variety name | Description and characteristics |
| Elizabeth 2 |
|
| Alexandria (Swiss selection) |
|
| Selva (Czech selection) |
|
| Fragrant basket (Russian selection) |
|
Photo gallery: remontant varieties of strawberries for greenhouses
Strawberry Elizabeth 2 bears fruit from May to the end of September The Alexandria variety has berries that are not large, but fragrant and sweet Strawberry Selva is highly immune to diseases, it is also not very attractive for pests
Other varieties of remontant strawberries
There are more than 30 well-known varieties of remontant strawberries that have positive reviews from experienced gardeners. Productive and weather-resistant European and domestic hybrids, little known and under variety testing, are grown by both ordinary summer residents and farmers on an industrial scale.
Table: other modern varieties of remontant strawberries
| Variety name | Description and characteristics |
| Monterey (American selection) |
|
| Letizia (Italian selection) |
|
| Elsinore |
|
| San Andreas (Italian hybrid) |
|
| Moscow delicacy |
|
Photo gallery: other varieties of remontant strawberries
Monterey strawberries bloom and bear fruit 3-4 times per season Elsinora strawberry is a large-fruited remontant variety with fragrant berries Letitia strawberry gives a bountiful harvest in continental climate San Andreas strawberry bears fruit in waves with an interval of 5 weeks before the first frost Strawberry Moscow delicacy can be easily identified by obtusely flattened berries with deeply planted seeds
Remontant strawberry varieties suitable for growing in the regions
Most of the famous strawberry remontant varieties are grown everywhere due to their frost resistance and unpretentiousness. When choosing a variety, it is important to focus on growing conditions in the climatic zone. Considering that there are small-fruited and large-fruited varieties, sweet and sour, the gardener's taste preferences play an important role when choosing strawberries.
Video: the best varieties for growing in the regions of Russia
Varieties of remontant strawberries for cultivation in the Moscow region
For the Moscow region, varieties are suitable that tolerate waterlogging and are resistant to return frosts. Alexandria and Rügen, strawberries amazing in taste The Yellow Miracle, the Moscow delicacy that has fallen in love in recent years, Ruyana, with delicate strawberry notes of Lyubasha, are the most unpretentious and suitable for growing in a variable climate. As an ampelous plant, the Garland variety is planted.
Varieties of remontant strawberries for growing in central Russia
The most famous remontant varieties - early-ripening Baron Solemacher, fragrant Ruyana, large-fruited Selva, Rügen - are frequent guests in garden plots in Central Russia, the Volga region, and the Chernozem region. Elsenore and Holiday have adapted to the conditions of the temperate climate. Lyubava and Zolotinka bloom profusely and bear fruit up to 2 years. The most common varieties are Ali Baba and Alexandria, they are preferred by gardeners as the most unpretentious remontants.
Varieties of remontant strawberries for growing in Siberia and the Urals
Basically, varieties are selected for cultivation that easily tolerate frosts and bear fruit continuously throughout the season:
- Rügen.
- Alexandria.
- Baron Solemacher.
- Ruyana.
- Yellow wonder.
- Yoshkarolinka.
- Yoke.
Even in the conditions of the Siberian climate, small-fruited varieties of remontant strawberries can be found - they are the most resistant to recurrent cold weather. In Siberia, it is necessary to insulate strawberries for the winter with a layer of straw mulch. In the first decade of May, early varieties are recommended to be covered with non-woven materials at night to protect flowering shoots from frost.
Remontant varieties of strawberries for cultivation in Belarus
In the southern regions of Belarus, the Monterey and Selva varieties are grown, here the fruitful Elizabeth 2 and Albion, the fragrant Forest Fairy Tale, are found in garden plots; ampelous hybrids - Temptation and Garland. These are mainly varieties that tolerate drought and hot weather well. In the regions located to the north, the Rügen strawberry, the recently spread Yoshkoralinka, the Moscow delicacy, Baron Solemacher, the unpretentious Wim Rin strawberry, a novelty of the last decade, the Charlotte variety are cultivated. Heat-loving varieties (for example, Monterey) require additional shelter for the winter.
Video: the best variety of remontant strawberries in Belarus
Sweet juicy strawberry has been known to mankind since ancient times. Archaeologists are still finding traces of it in fossilized deposits that are over 60 million years old. But as a garden crop, the berry began to be grown only in the 15th century, constantly improving the appearance and technical characteristics of the fruit.
Care and planting remontant strawberries
To date, there is a huge number of different varieties of garden strawberries, among which a special place is occupied by remontant species. They gained their popularity due to their high yield - fruiting lasts throughout the summer period until the first frost, that is, harvesting can be done 2-3 times per season.
How to choose seedlings
When buying seedlings, first of all pay attention to its appearance. Planting material must meet the following characteristics:
- Developed root system: the rhizomes of the plant should not be less than 6 cm;
- well-formed bushes have at least 3-4 true leaves without any flaws (foreign inclusions, etc.);
- the central bud (heart of the bush) should be large pink.
Choosing a place to land
The site for planting berries should have a flat or slightly inclined surface to the southwest. Do not plant strawberries in the lowlands, because the air is cooler there than on the hills, and this significantly reduces the yield of berries. It is also not recommended to grow plants on the southern slope - early melting of snow can lead to the death of revived bushes under the influence of spring frosts. The landing site must be protected from the wind.
Lighting is an important factor for the successful growth and development of berry bushes. Strawberries prefer well-lit areas, only in this case you will get a high yield of sweet and fragrant fruits. Bushes growing in the shade are characterized by low yields and sour, watery fruits.
For planting choose light loamy soil. The site is pre-cleared from weeds and stones, simultaneously mulching the ground. Remontant species grow well on mulch made of needles, green manure, hay, straw, sawdust. In lightweight soil, moisture is better retained, it warms up faster, which contributes to an earlier harvest.
Planting a remontant strawberry
Plant remontant strawberries and it is necessary to take care of it according to certain rules that every gardener who decides to start growing this crop should know. When planting seedlings, you must adhere to the following recommendations:
The timing of planting remontant strawberries is determined depending on the climatic conditions of the growing region. Active growth of rhizomes and foliage of the plant is noted twice a year: the first - in spring, the second - in summer. Therefore, planting seedlings in the ground is also carried out twice a season. In the spring, young bushes are planted after the top layer of the soil warms up sufficiently (up to +12 degrees). summer plants can be planted in the second half of July (approximately from the 25th) until mid-August.
But still, experienced gardeners recommend planting remontant strawberry varieties in the spring. In this case, the bushes have time to adapt and take root well in the new site. When planting strawberries in mid-May, the first harvest can be obtained in the second half of July, and from that moment strawberries will delight you with delicious berries until the end of September.
Each gardener himself determines the scheme for planting remontant strawberries based on the characteristics of his site. There are the following types of boarding:
- Carpet method. In this way, beardless varieties of Victoria are usually planted. The distance between plants is: for large-fruited species - about 40 cm, for small-fruited species - 25 cm.
- Planting plants in rows. Strawberry bushes are planted in a continuous row according to the 30 * 70 cm pattern. This planting method is suitable for varieties that throw out antennae and grow in width.
Features of care
Remontant strawberry varieties differ from the rest in the continuity of the fruiting process: as soon as the first berries ripen, new ovaries immediately form. Of course, it is nice to enjoy delicious juicy strawberries throughout the summer season. However, in order to get a really good harvest, it is necessary to provide certain care for the plants.
Since remontant varieties bear fruit several times during the summer, they require more fertilizing and watering.
Remontant strawberries need more frequent watering, especially in the heat, when the air warms up to a temperature of +30 degrees and above. Make sure that during this period the soil is saturated with moisture by at least 3-5 cm. In order for the strawberry yield to be really high, it is necessary to ensure timely weeding, as well as loosening the soil. The procedure is carried out with great care, trying to preserve the integrity of the root system and tendrils of the plant. If you have already mulched the soil when planting, then it can only be loosened occasionally.
Fertilizing strawberry bushes is carried out after watering. For this purpose, herbal infusion (wormwood and nettle) is used, which is aged for a week under the open sun. The composition of such a mixture includes the nutrients necessary for the growth and development of bushes. Before use, the solution should be strained through a piece of cloth to prevent weed seeds from entering the strawberry plantings. In addition, an infusion of bird droppings or mullein is used for feeding.
Growing strawberries from seeds at home
This method of growing strawberries is quite laborious, however, despite this, it is very popular with gardeners, because it allows you to grow fruits, having the desired taste.
Although it is much more difficult to grow strawberry bushes from seeds than from seedlings, many gardeners still prefer this method because it allows you to get fruits with the desired taste. To harvest this season, it is necessary to sow seeds on time.
When and how to sow
Optimal landing time seeds are February-March. Plants planted during this period have time to fully form before the onset of summer heat. In addition, bushes planted in early May give a full harvest at the end of the summer season. Remontant strawberry seeds can be planted directly in open ground. Over the summer, the seedlings will get stronger well, which will allow them to easily endure the winter.
The quality and composition of the soil is also of no small importance. For planting strawberries, you can purchase a ready-made substrate treated with special means from various diseases, pathogenic microorganisms and weeds.
Fertile soil can be prepared independently. To do this, you need to take peat (1 part), garden soil (2 parts) and sand (1 part). Add a little wood ash and rotted manure to the resulting mixture. Disinfect the substrate with a solution of Fitop-Flora-C or Ftosporin-M. Many practice scalding with boiling water, but this results in an absolutely sterile environment that is not entirely suitable for growing seedlings, since in this case the seedlings will have weak immunity.
Peat tablets are also quite popular, having in their composition all the trace elements necessary for the growth of strawberry seedlings. For planting seeds, you can use plastic cups, food containers or peat-humus pots, in which the seedlings are then planted in a permanent place without using the transshipment method.
Among gardeners, the following methods of growing strawberries from seeds at home are practiced:
Landings must be aired and watered daily. Avoid mold or mildew. Young bushes are watered with warm boiled water, using a teaspoon, since a strong stream from a watering can can uproot still immature sprouts. The first shoots will appear in about 2-3 weeks.
To obtain strong healthy seedlings, it is necessary to provide the seedlings with all the necessary conditions for normal growth and development. Strawberry seedlings need good lighting, so it should be additionally illuminated with warm or cold spectrum LEDs or phytolamps.
Watering should be regular, but waterlogging of the soil, as well as its drying out, should be avoided. Picking seedlings is carried out after the formation of two true leaves. Sprouts are carefully transplanted into separate containers, trying to maintain the integrity of the central root. Pinching the rhizome will cause overgrowth surface roots, which will negatively affect the drought resistance of the bushes when they are transplanted to a permanent place.
This variety of sweet berry is becoming increasingly popular with gardeners. The plant can be grown as a home flower both in hanging bowls and planters, and on window sills and beds. Curly strawberries are famous for their incredibly tasty and large fruits. But in order to get a good harvest, it is necessary to provide the culture with the appropriate conditions. The main feature of this subspecies is the formation of a long mustache, requiring a mandatory garter to the support. Ampel varieties tolerate a lack of light well, therefore they are suitable for planting in a greenhouse, on a terrace and a balcony.
Landing and care
For planting ampelous strawberries, it is necessary to prepare a special soil from manure, compost and peat. A drainage layer (crushed stone, pebbles, gravel) is poured at the bottom of the container, about 10–15 cm high, and prepared soil mixture is poured on top, which is immediately watered. After subsidence of the substrate, fill it up to the desired volume. 1 plant is planted in the hole, pressing each with a small lump of earth. Before planting a seedling, it must be placed in a clay mash. This will help the bush to take root and take root faster.
To obtain a year-round harvest, several varieties of ampelous strawberries should be planted simultaneously. This variety of strawberries grows well on the windowsill, which allows you to enjoy juicy berries even in winter.
To do this, it is enough to plant plants in ordinary flower pots. This growing method requires regular and frequent repotting (once every 3-4 years), because soil fertility decreases over several years, and you risk growing wild strawberries.
At first, planting requires frequent (3 times a day) and abundant watering. Mature plants need to be moistened every three days. The tendrils are also periodically trimmed, leaving no more than 5 pcs on each plant. In the second year of life, before flowering and the formation of fruits, strawberry bushes are fed with fertilizers.
Growing remontant strawberries on your windowsill or garden plot is not so difficult. Subject to simple rules and recommendations, you can get an excellent harvest of delicious sweet berries with a minimum of effort.
