Do-it-yourself high-quality electrical wiring in a wooden house: step-by-step instructions and comments. Wiring in a wooden house - design, installation and basic safety requirements (120 photos) Wiring in a wooden wall

Light, heat, the operation of engineering and household equipment - everything is based on electricity. Therefore, the level of comfort depends entirely on the uninterrupted and, importantly, safe operation of the electrical network. Any defect or mistake made during the installation of electrical equipment and electrical wiring can lead to dire consequences - fires or fires.

The topic of proper installation of electrical wiring for wooden houses is especially relevant, because... due to discrepancies in the interpretation of the PUE (Rules for the Construction of Electrical Installations) and the SP (Code of Rules), confusion and a lot of controversy arises. Therefore, in this article we will answer the following questions:

What are the basic principles of installing electrical wiring in a wooden house?
How electrical wiring is installed in a wooden house in accordance with the rules of the PUE and SP.
Technical features of installation of hidden electrical wiring.

Correct electrical wiring in a wooden house

Wood is a general construction material with a centuries-old history. Both small guest houses and large-area cottages are built from it. With all the advantages of both log and frame houses, the basis of which are wooden posts, many believe that such buildings have an increased fire hazard. But one important point is missed.

Regardless of what the house is built from - brick, aerated concrete, timber or rounded logs, upholstered furniture, curtains, curtains, interior items, household appliances, etc. burn first. Those. - the “filling” of the house, made of combustible materials.

In a stone house, the electrical wiring running from the distribution board to the consumers is mounted in fireproof material (the cable is laid in grooves, which are then sealed and plastered, etc.).

In this case, the developer faces a difficult choice - the wiring in a wooden house can be external , the cable can be routed inside wooden walls or between frame posts.

How to lay cable in a wooden house.

Let's consider all these methods of laying wires in a wooden house. If in the first case the electrical wiring is visible, which affects the speed of detection of an emergency situation (cable overheating, etc.), then in the second option it is hidden behind the cladding or in solid wood. Accordingly, what happens to the cable is unclear. Hence the fears and doubts of the developer: “What if something happens to the electrical wiring? Will it light up or not?

Practice shows that the “weak” point in the electrical network is not the cable itself (we do not consider cases of gross violation of installation, the use of a cable with a reduced cross-section, on which a large load was “hung”, “twists” on electrical tape on the route to splice the cable), but connection points - junction boxes, terminals for connecting consumers, i.e. sockets, switches, etc.

Modern power cables, with the abbreviation VVGng, etc., do not support combustion.

There are constant debates about where it is safer to run the cable - outside or inside the walls, and whether open wiring is acceptable in a wooden house. There is an opinion that if we lay wiring along the wall, this will give us time to see and react to an emergency situation and make the right decision on how to proceed. Put out the fire or evacuate.

Simply put, smell the smoke immediately, and not later, when the flame has already spread to the structural elements. If the electrical wiring is mounted in the wall, even in a steel pipe, then this may also not save you from a fire.

Semik User FORUMHOUSE

I can refer to my experience as a firefighter and my experience as an electrician in emergency situations. Steel pipes are more needed for mechanical protection of wiring from the “fool”, the teeth of rats, which can gnaw even through a metal hose and damage the cable. I have seen more than once how a steel pipe, with wiring shorted inside, became red-hot. If this happens in a wooden wall, a fire is inevitable.

According to the user, the first thing you should think about when installing electrical wiring is the correct calculation of all cable sections and the selection of electrical equipment for protection. That is, figuratively speaking, there is no point in installing a 100 A circuit breaker on a wire with a cross-section of 0.75 square meters. mm with a distance to the consumer of one kilometer.

Hence, a safe electrical network is a balanced system where each element, from circuit breakers to the cross-section and length of the cable, as well as the end consumer, is matched to each other. It is a delusion to hope that by stretching a cable through a metal pipe in a conventional wooden wall, we have already protected ourselves from fire. The rules for laying cables in a wooden house are a rather vague thing, so far we have solved only part of the complex problem, which will be discussed below.

PUE and SP: standards and rules for installing electrical wiring in wooden and frame houses

Let us repeat once again that we have left outside the scope of this article the external installation of electrical wiring in cable ducts. We also do not consider the so-called retro wiring. This option, both in terms of design and financial component, is not suitable for everyone.

Therefore, we set the task - it is necessary to install hidden electrical wiring in a wooden or frame house in a safe and regulated way.

Which wire to use for a wooden house

It seems that everything is simple - you need to open the PUE (seventh edition dated 07/08/2002) and read paragraph 7.1.38, which says:

Electrical networks laid behind non-passable suspended ceilings and in partitions are considered as hidden electrical wiring and should be carried out: behind ceilings and in the voids of partitions made of flammable materials in metal pipes, having localization ability, and in closed boxes; behind ceilings and in partitions made of non-combustible materials - pipes and ducts made of non-flammable materials, as well as flame retardant cables. It must be possible to replace wires and cables.

Now we open the document for frame builders, namely SP 31-105-2002 “Design and construction of energy-efficient single-apartment residential buildings with a wooden frame.” Read paragraph 13.5.1:

Electrical wiring should be arranged by passing cables (wires in a protective sheath) through voids or spaces filled with insulation inside the walls and ceilings of the house, as well as through holes in the wooden frame elements of walls and ceilings. Pass such cables and wires through house structures it is allowed to arrange without the use of bushings and tubes.

And paragraph 13.5.2:

For electrical wiring Insulated wires in protective sheaths must be used or cables in sheaths made of flame retardant materials.

A cable is two or more insulated conductors connected together and covered with insulation.

A wire is a single-core or multi-core conductor with or without insulation.

Cable for wiring in a wooden house.

Accordingly: due to discrepancies between the PUE and the joint venture and the vagueness of the wording in the PUE, many users have a question - how to properly install electrical wiring on flammable materials. As prescribed in the PUE - by laying it in a steel pipe. Or as it is written in the joint venture - using a flame retardant cable without additional protective sheaths. Many disputes arise on this basis.

Vitalik1985 User FORUMHOUSE

I think that laying cables in steel pipes- this is a redundant solution. The likelihood that a cable will break is negligible; fires most often occur due to a spark in an outlet. It is better to pay more attention to circuit breakers, connections, junction boxes, switches, etc.

Danil117 User FORUMHOUSE

It is necessary to do so to eliminate the possibility of the wire catching fire. We choose the correct cable cross-section and select high-quality machines. That is, we do not hope that a steel pipe is a panacea for fires and fires.

We will also consider opposing opinions.

Sollara User FORUMHOUSE

I believe that wires for a wooden house should be in a metal pipe with localization ability. If the wire catches fire, it will burn out inside. If it is shorted, the arc will not burn through the pipe. We install metal junction boxes connected to the pipe.

A steel pipe for electrical wiring in a wooden house must be grounded.

Also interesting is the opinion of a portal user with the nickname Ivanov Kostya.

By laying a cable in a metal pipe, we solve two problems: we protect the cable from possible mechanical damage and protect the tree from possible fire of the cable.

Moreover, the first point acquires key importance in relation to our construction conditions. Workers can, while installing drywall or drilling something, pierce an unprotected cable with a screw or nail. The cable insulation can be damaged by the sharp edge of the metal profile. The cable can be chewed (optionally) by rats or mice. In addition, the accumulation of wood dust during a spark or breakdown of insulation can lead to the rapid spread of flames inside the walls.

It seems that such a solution is redundant, but in this way we protect the cable from force majeure circumstances, including the common situation: “I forgot where the cable goes in the wall, hung a shelf/picture and damaged it.”

Although, in order to avoid such situations, we do not lay the cable as it is necessary, but along strictly defined and marked cable routes, if necessary, taking photographs with an attached tape measure.

Is corrugation acceptable for electrical wiring in a wooden house?

From all of the above, it becomes clear that some FORUMHOUSE users believe that electric cable in wooden houses, with hidden wiring should be carried out only in metal pipes. Let's emphasize - specifically in steel pipes, and not in a metal hose, plastic self-extinguishing corrugation or steel corrugated pipe.

Corrugation for wires in a wooden house with hidden wiring is not suitable!

A short circuit arc (short circuit) burns through a steel corrugated pipe, and plastic corrugation, due to its fragility, will not save the wiring from mechanical damage.

Others believe that a metal pipe for electrical wiring in a wooden house is redundant and rely on foreign experience, which allows for a cable in a log. In a classic frame using North American technology, the electrical cable is pulled directly through wooden posts, in drilled technological holes, without corrugations, metal pipes, etc.

In the “Finnish” version of the frame, the electrical cable is usually pulled in the inner layer of counter-insulation, embedded in a wooden counter-lattice.

It seems that the technology can be repeated, because it has stood the test of time, but, as we know, the essence is in the details.

“Overseas”, grounding must be done, and double grounding - one goes to the street line, to the switchboard, the second is independent, connected either to copper pins driven into the ground, or to a central water pipe. Plus, there is also a “zero” bus, and each line and electrical appliance (sockets, lamps, etc.) has its own independent grounding.

Roracotta FORUMHOUSE Member

There are 4 thick cables running underground to the meter in the house. Ground, zero and two phases. In addition to this ground on the cable, the central panel and meter itself must be grounded with a separate ground or to a copper pipe when entering the house, or with two 16 mm copper pins 2 meters long, or with a special copper plate buried in the ground to a depth of about a meter.

In a three-core “foreign” cable, the copper wire is “ground” and comes without braid. This ensures that the RCD is triggered at the slightest damage to the insulation of the “zero” and “phase” wires along the entire route. While in our country the grounding wire is isolated and provides protection only to end consumers.

Roracotta

In Canada, a rule was introduced - all lines that supply bedrooms must be equipped with special circuit breakers that are sensitive to sparks jumping at the consumer (plug, socket, etc.). If a spark jumps somewhere, the machine knocks out. It's expensive, but it needs to be done.

And this is only part of the nuances that ensure electrical safety. Having decided to run a cable in a steel pipe in houses built from timber, we remember that wood shrinks over time. Moreover, depending on the moisture content of the source material, this value can be significant. This means that we need to think in advance about how to ensure the necessary movement/independence of the steel pipe with the cable, so that the beam does not “hang” on it after 2-3 years.

Condensation may form in the steel pipe, and moisture may enter the outlet or junction box due to the slope of the route. Another “headache” is how to build tracks in large wooden houses. It’s one thing to lay steel pipes in a wooden cottage of 100-150 square meters. m, but the task is completely different in complexity - in houses of 300-500 sq. m. In addition to increasing the estimate, special requirements are also placed on the qualifications of workers involved in the installation of electrical wiring in steel pipes.

Therefore, examples of the practical implementation of cable wiring in metal pipes are interesting.

Ivanov Kostya Member of FORUMHOUSE

I installed the electrical wiring in the wooden ceiling of the attic floor, in a steel square pipe 15x15 mm, with a VVGng cable with a section of 3x2.5. Turns and bends - a metal hose with a diameter of 20 mm, it fits well onto the pipe.

A square pipe is more convenient to install than a round one.

Installation of wiring in a log house

Electrical installation in a wooden house is also interesting , made by user with nickname Serg177. To do this, he bought a 15x15 mm pipe 300 meters long and a metal corrugation with a diameter of 2 cm, as well as brackets (they are used to fasten corrugations with a diameter of 1.5 cm) for fixing the pipes on the walls. Next, we install the wiring, not forgetting to first clean the edges of the pipes from burrs!

Nowadays, wooden houses are already the norm. Everyone wants to live in an environmentally friendly home, but modern people do not want to give up the conveniences of modernity. We are talking about lighting, the use of household appliances, computers, etc. All this will become possible only if electrical wires are laid inside the house, switches and sockets are installed, and distribution panels are installed. When it comes to a wooden house, which is easily flammable and burns, special requirements are put forward for the installation of wiring, compliance with which is the key to the safety of all residents. Let’s figure out how to properly install electrical wiring in a wooden house and what must be taken into account. The material will help you evaluate your strengths and decide whether it is possible to do all the work yourself or whether you will have to call a professional for help.

No. 1. Requirements for wiring in a wooden house

Wood is one of those types of materials that ignite easily and burn well. can easily catch fire from a normal short circuit in the electrical circuit, so the process is to minimize the likelihood of a short circuit occurring, and if it does occur, to minimize the consequences. The following requirements are put forward for wiring in a wooden house::

No. 2. Hidden wiring in a wooden house

Electrical wiring in wooden buildings can be done in two ways:

Electrical wiring in a wooden house must not only perform its functions, but also be safe, so increased demands are placed on the quality of its implementation. You can do electrical wiring in a wooden house with your own hands, but you must follow all installation rules.

The work must be divided into several stages:

Drawing up a project and calculating the total capacity of the equipment;
Selection of cables, electrical equipment, mounting elements according to the calculated load;
Entry into the house and connection of the input circuit breaker, electricity meter, installation of the distribution board;
Laying cables, distributing them point by point;
Installation of sockets, switches, lighting equipment;
Installation of grounding and RCD;
Testing and verification.

House power supply project

In order to properly design electrical wiring, it is necessary to establish the total power of the electrical equipment. Sequence of design work:

Draw a house plan and indicate the location of all lighting fixtures, sockets, and equipment with individual connections.
The drawing must indicate the maximum power of the devices, taking into account the starting currents of the electric motors.
Lighting equipment is connected to separate power supply groups; the number of these groups depends on the size of the house and the power of the lighting fixtures. Typically, for a small house, all lamps can be connected to one group.
It is also necessary to provide lighting for the courtyard area, and if the house is used as a summer house for temporary residence, it is more advisable to connect the courtyard lighting to a separate circuit breaker - this way, it will be possible to turn off the power to the house during departure without turning off the external lighting.
Powerful household electrical appliances are connected to a separate power supply group, through a separate circuit breaker. Such devices include water heaters and electric boilers, as well as electric ovens, stoves, convectors - all equipment with high power consumption. For such electrical appliances it is necessary to lay a separate cable.

For each group, it is necessary to calculate the maximum power consumption by summing up all electrical appliances that can be connected to the network at the same time. It is also necessary to calculate the total power of the entire load to select an input circuit breaker.

Selection of cables and equipment

When designing a power supply, complex calculations are carried out to select a cable, but to carry out electrical wiring in a wooden house with your own hands, it is enough to use the table. For each power supply group, select a cable cross-section corresponding to the power consumption.

For wiring, copper cable of the VVGng-LS or NYM brand is most often chosen. The first is distinguished by a lower price, and the second by an additional layer of insulation and greater reliability, as well as ease of cutting. Aluminum cable can also be used, but its cross-section increases, in addition, the cores of the aluminum cable are more brittle when bent, therefore, it is less reliable.

To connect sockets, you need a three-core cable with a grounding wire - some household appliances require mandatory protective grounding. For lighting according to the PUE, it is also necessary to use grounding, but in practice this rule is often neglected. However, if you plan to install high-power fixtures, such as a floodlight for yard lighting, it is highly recommended that all wiring be done correctly.

Wiring in a wooden house can be done both externally - in a cable channel, and hidden if the interior decoration involves wall cladding. Internal wiring must be carried out in pipes or a metal hose, for fire safety purposes and to protect against accidental damage when drilling holes, for example.

The choice of sockets and switches is made according to several parameters:

According to the current for which they are designed;
By installation type: for hidden or external wiring;
Socket blocks are selected according to the number of places, and switches - according to the number of keys. Sometimes it is convenient to connect several switches into one block, for example, switches for a nearby bathroom and toilet.

Input of power supply and input machine

The selection of the input cable is made according to the maximum power of all electrical equipment in the house. Special attention should be paid to this when reconstructing electrical wiring. Having changed all the cables and increased the rating of the circuit breakers, we must not forget about the input cable. Its cross-section may be insufficient, and a fire will occur under heavy load. The input cable is changed, as a rule, with the involvement of the energy supplying organization simultaneously with the installation and sealing of the meter.

The input circuit breaker must reserve group circuit breakers and disconnect the house from the power supply in the event of a short circuit, but not operate at the maximum possible load. If the house is powered from a three-phase network, a three-pole circuit breaker is installed. For a single-phase network - single-pole or double-pole, where a phase and a zero are connected.

Selecting the rating and type of circuit breaker for a single-phase network:

It is necessary to calculate the total power of all electrical appliances and calculate the maximum current using the formula I NOM = P / U·cosϕ. The resulting value I NOM is the calculated rated current of the network, it is multiplied by a factor of 1.1 and the rated current of the circuit breaker release is obtained. As a rule, circuit breakers with a rating of no more than 25 A are installed at the entrance to the house.
To select the type of machine, you need to know the minimum short-circuit current. For a single-phase network ~220V, the short circuit current can be calculated using the simplified formula I short circuit = 3260 S/L, where S is the wire cross-section in mm 2, L is the cable length, m. In this case, the calculation is carried out for the longest group with the minimum cross-section cable.
Next, you need to determine the multiple of the short-circuit current to the rated current, that is, calculate I SC / I NOM. The resulting value determines the characteristics of the switch. In private homes, circuit breakers with characteristic C are most often used.

An automatic input switch is usually installed after the meter. It is possible to install it up to the meter, but in this case it must be sealed.

Automatic switches of power supply groups, an electricity meter, as well as an input circuit breaker and an RCD are installed in the distribution panel. The body of the metal shield must be grounded. The equipment is installed on a DIN rail, after which it is wired in accordance with the diagram.

Laying cables, installing sockets and switches

Before laying the cable, it is necessary to determine the route, install distribution boxes and mark the installation locations of sockets, switches and lighting fixtures. The cable of the selected cross-section is laid in accordance with the installation plan using one of the methods indicated below.

Laying the cable in a metal hose or pipe carried out if it is planned to completely cover the internal walls, otherwise the wiring will look unaesthetic. It is impossible to use plastic corrugated pipe for hidden wiring, since there is a possibility of accidental damage to it, which can lead to a fire inside the ceilings, which is very difficult to quickly eliminate.

Cable laying technology in a pipe:

Prepare the cable route by making grooves. At the cable connection points, open distribution boxes are installed in such a way as to ensure easy access to them even after the walls are covered.
Penetrations through walls are made using metal sleeves with plugs. Special metal sleeves are installed under sockets and switches.
Pipes for the cable route are selected so that their internal diameter is filled to no more than 40%. It is better to use copper pipes for laying cables: they are not cheap, but they are easy to bend, cut and process sections. The cuts must be cleaned and their edges polished to avoid damaging the cable sheath with burrs and sharp edges. Pipes are attached to the walls using clamps; they are attached to metal sleeves by flaring a copper pipe inside the sleeve.
The cable is pulled through the pipes and the insulation of its cores to the pipe body is immediately checked - this will reveal possible damage to the insulation from the edges of the pipes even during cable laying.
They cut the cable, leaving a length reserve of at least 20 cm in the distribution boxes - this will allow for later rewiring if necessary. The cable cores in the distribution boxes are twisted together and insulated with PPE caps.
They cut the cables and connect them to switches, sockets and group automatic switches. At the same time, the color coding of the wires is observed.

External cable routing performed in a cable channel made of self-extinguishing plastic. The cable channel comes in various sizes and is a box closed with a lid with a latch. The color of the cable channel can be either white or imitating a wooden texture, so it looks quite aesthetically pleasing on log walls.

Technology for laying cables in a cable channel:

Grounding and RCD

Necessary for the operating conditions of most household appliances if their housing is made of metal. In a private house, grounding can be done independently.

For grounding, you will need three metal pins or corners 3 meters long, as well as cutting corners about a meter long, which need to be used to connect the pins. The grounding technology is as follows: dig a trench in the shape of an equilateral triangle with a side of 1 meter and a depth of at least 30 cm, drive three-meter pins or corners into the ground at the corners of the trench, and connect them together in short sections using welding. A hole is made in one of the corners, and a grounding conductor is attached using a bolt and nut, which is brought out into the distribution panel and connected to the grounding bus. All grounding conductors of the cables are connected to the same bus - they have yellow-green insulation.

RCD - residual current device - is necessary to protect a person from electric shock in the event of a current leak on the metal body of household appliances or in the event of damage to the insulation. The RCD reacts to current mismatches, detecting even the smallest leak. The RCD has two parameters by which it is selected: rated current and leakage current.

The rated current of the RCD is selected an order of magnitude higher than the current of the circuit breaker in this circuit. Leakage current - depending on the type of room and connected equipment. So, for a bathroom you need an RCD with a leakage current of 10 mA, and for other rooms a value of this parameter of 30 mA is sufficient. The RCD connection diagram is shown in the figure.

Electrical wiring tests

After installation, it is necessary to call electrical laboratory specialists so that they carry out the entire necessary set of measurements: insulation resistance, resistance of the grounding conductor and phase-zero loops, load the machines and check the RCD. After the tests, you will be given a protocol that will allow you to confirm the correctness of the electrical installation work to the energy supply organization - the protocol may be needed when sealing the electricity meter.

It is recommended to paste the wiring diagram with all amendments and comments on the inner surface of the wall of the switchboard - this will provide clarity in case of electrical wiring faults. The diagram must indicate which circuit breaker powers each group and what is connected to it.

Electrical wiring in a wooden house, carried out taking into account all recommendations, is completely safe and will last for a long time.

Wooden houses are a very ancient tradition of Russian architecture. Even in our time, when there is no shortage of modern building materials, many owners of suburban areas prefer to build housing from wood - no one can even come close to it in terms of natural warmth and the special comfort it creates.

And ordinary city dwellers - owners of small dachas - most often choose wood as the main material for construction. But both permanent and temporary housing in modern conditions cannot do without power supply. In both cases, it is extremely necessary to know how to do the wiring in a wooden house correctly, so as not to endanger your health and even life, and to ensure the safety of your home and property.

Basic requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden house

First of all, it is necessary to warn home craftsmen who believe that if they can repair a socket or switch in an apartment and know how to distinguish zero from phase using a conventional indicator, then they can safely undertake independent installation of electrical wiring in a country wooden house. Not everything is so simple - a wooden structure is characterized by an increased fire hazard, and the requirements for laying power lines here are completely different.

Poor electrical wiring is the most common cause of fires.

Gloomy statistics show that the overwhelming number of fires that occur in wooden buildings are directly related to violations of the installation and operation of electrical appliances or wiring. By and large, you should not undertake the task of laying electrical lines yourself - this is the lot of qualified specialists. However, any owner of a wooden home needs to know the basic rules, although would in order to evaluate existing cable connections or monitor the work of called electricians, since it is quite possible to run into “hack workers” who perform the work according to the principle “no big deal, it’ll do.”

So, what are the basic requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden structure:

The possibility of a cable fire with the transfer of an open flame to the wooden structure of the building in the event of a short circuit must be completely eliminated or minimized to the limit.
The physical, technical and operational characteristics of the wires and electrical fittings used must sufficiently correspond to the total power consumption at each specific wiring section, taking into account peak loads. Any manifestations of heating of cables or terminal connections are unacceptable.
The condition of the wiring must completely eliminate the risk of electric shock to people or pets.

The problem of aesthetics in a wooden building should fade into the background. There are many acceptable ways to solve this issue (this will be discussed below). But you should never improve the interior design of premises at the expense of even a slight reduction in the level of security - this is fraught with catastrophic consequences.

The difficulty of independent work on laying in a wooden house is also that there is no single regulatory document. Experienced craftsmen with extensive work experience know the basic requirements for it and technological techniques for their implementation. It is not so easy to select the necessary information yourself, scattered among SNiPs, GOSTs and PUE (rules for electrical installations), and it is often too specialized in nature, understandable only to a person with a specialized education.

The main objective of this publication is to give owners of wooden houses a basic understanding of how to install electrical wiring. It should not be considered as an instruction on how to make wiring in a wooden house, addressed to an unprepared person for completely independent electrical work.

Electrical line entry into the house

This — very responsible area, which for some reason owners often forget about, focusing specifically on the internal wiring. The principle probably works - it has been standing for a long time and is completely justified. Meanwhile, the introduction of power cables into the house could have been carried out a very long time ago, using old technologies that no longer meet modern requirements. The equipment of houses with electrical appliances has literally increased several times; accordingly, energy consumption has also increased. And the cable part itself can become hopelessly outdated - the insulation bursts under many years of exposure to the sun and temperature changes, exposing the metal cores and reducing the safety of the wiring.

This type of cable entry through a wooden wall is a “time bomb”

A particularly vulnerable area is the passage of the cable through the wooden wall of the attic. At one time it was believed that cutting a rubber hose was enough for safety. However, such a unit is fraught with a considerable threat - the rubber contains a considerable percentage of soot, which itself is carbon, i.e. conductive material. As such an “insulator” ages, electrical conductivity bridges with a fairly high resistivity appear. Areas of local heating and sparking may occur, and for dry roof gable boards this may be quite sufficient.

In a word, if the goal is to completely update the wiring and bring it to a truly safe state, then you need to start from here.

There are two ways to bring a power line into a house - overhead and underground.

The underground method is considered more reliable, since the cable is completely hidden and not subject to external influences. At the same time, this is a rather expensive method that will require significant excavation work. The cable must be located at a depth of at least 0.8 m, the security zone must be marked with signs. Passage through the foundation and entry into the house is carried out with the mandatory installation of metal sleeves made of thick-walled pipes.

As a rule, it makes sense to organize such a connection only when thinking through the passage of communications in advance. If the power line is laid in an already rebuilt house, then it is easier and cheaper to use overhead wiring.

It is strictly prohibited to carry out any independent electrical work on power line poles - only a highly qualified electrician with the appropriate permit has the right to do this.

An approximate diagram of the required placement of overhead wiring from power lines to the house is shown in the figure.

The section of the line from the pole to the house is usually made of wire with a cross-section of at least 16 mm. Basically, a SIP type cable (self-supporting insulated wire) is used, which has a high-strength sheath made of cross-linked polyethylene, resistant to infrared radiation and thermal shocks. The service life of such a wire should be at least 25 years.

However, this line never runs inside the house. According to existing rules, laying cables with aluminum current-carrying parts over combustible structural elements is strictly prohibited. And since we are talking about a wooden house, then starting from the entrance and to to The last socket or light bulb uses exclusively copper conductors.

For the section from the line connection to the input switchgear, it is recommended to use VVGng cable. The additional index “ng” indicates the non-flammability of its insulating coating. This cable fully meets the requirements for fixed wiring both indoors and outdoors. However, for greater reliability, it is also recommended to enclose it in a corrugated polymer pipe, which has the appropriate certification according to the current fire safety rules NPB 246-97. The plastic from which the “corrugation” is made is a self-extinguishing, non-combustible material.

Always carried out outside the building. Currently, special sealed clamps are most often used for this, ensuring reliable contact without the possibility of oxidation and sparking.

The areas where VVGng passes through the walls of the house and attic or interfloor ceilings are necessarily enclosed in a metal sleeve made from a thick-walled pipe. This precaution has several purposes:

The cable part will be protected from damage that may be caused by displacements of building structures, for example, due to shrinkage of the house or ground vibrations.
The metal sheath will prevent the spread of fire to wooden structures to the maximum extent in the event of an emergency - overheating or fire of the cable.
The cable in vulnerable places hidden from view receives protection from domestic rodents.

Pipe wall thickness is a regulated value. So, if a wire with a cross-section of up to 4 mm² is used, it should be 2.8 mm, and when using more powerful cables - from 6 to 10 mm² - even 3.2 mm. This will eliminate the possibility of burning through the pipe wall if a short circuit occurs inside it.

The same rule applies to all areas of intra-house wiring in a wooden building, without any exception.

The next important section is from the entrance to the house to the switchboard (according to the accepted terminology, the input switchgear - VUR). What is special about this section is that it remains unprotected by automation from overloads or short circuits and, as a rule, is not in plain sight, often passing through the attic or utility rooms. You should not rely on the automation of an electrical substation - there are completely different response levels.

There are several ways to radically solve this problem:

The entire section of the cable to the ASU can be enclosed in a metal pipe with the same parameters mentioned above. However, this becomes possible only if its length is small - up to 2.5 - 3 meters and the absence of a large number of turns. Push a fairly rigid cable over significant distances in the clearance T t of rubles will be simply impossible.
It seems optimal to install a circuit breaker in a sealed box immediately before the line enters the building. In this case, its response threshold is selected one step higher than that of the main AZ, which is installed on the ASU. So, if a 25 A circuit breaker is installed on the panel, then 32 A should be installed on the outside one.

This will protect the vulnerable area from overload, but at the same time, if such a situation occurs in the internal house wiring, the automatic switch on the ASU will work, and there will be no need to get to the external AZ.

There is another option, when electricity supply organizations place both the machine and energy consumption meters on the outer wall of the building or even on power line poles. This is, of course, reliable, but not always convenient for the owners of the house.

Installation of distribution panel

The line from the entrance to the house directly, without any branches, leads to the distribution panel - ASU. What are its main components:

A metal or plastic box with places to place an electric meter and additional protection devices, a DIN rail for the AZ, busbars - neutral and ground loops. The dimensions of the box are not regulated, so it is better not to save in this case, and install it with the expectation of a further possible “upgrade” - retrofitting, the need for which may arise as the expansion progresses electrical equipment Houses.
Sealed electricity consumption meter.
The main input circuit breaker, two-pole or three-pole, which is usually also sealed by the power supply organization.
Single-pole AZ mounted on DIN rail. Their number may vary. Typically, the electrical network of a house is divided into zones - each their They will correspond to their own machine of a certain power. Thus, a kitchen and one or several rooms are separated into separate zones, which can also be divided into lighting and a socket group. Often a separate zone is used for lighting the yard, power supply for the garage and outbuildings, and external sockets that are used for household work on the territory.

The power of the machines is calculated for each zone individually. They are guided by the rule that it should ensure operation in case of overload at the weakest section of the local electrical wiring. The lower the rating, the higher the safety of operating electrical appliances. So, if ordinary sockets have a permissible limit of 16 A, then the AZ should not exceed this value.

RCD is a device for protective shutdown of power supply when a leakage current is detected. Due to the considerable cost of such a device, many simply neglect it. However, although it is not mandatory, it is still better not to skimp, purchase and include it in the general power supply system. The RCD will reliably protect residents from electric shock when using electrical appliances and will prevent emergency situations in the network. It is of particular importance in areas with high humidity - kitchens, bathrooms, bathhouses, boiler rooms, external fittings in courtyards, garages, etc. The selection of the RCD rating and its installation must be carried out by a qualified electrician, since several parameters are taken into account here - the total load of the area (maximum current) and leakage current.

An RCD can be installed on the entire intra-house network, but in this case there is a high probability of frequent false alarms, and in addition, it will be very difficult to identify the source of a potential security threat. A more convenient, but, however, more expensive way becomes installation RCD also has zoning, similar to AZ.

Video: example of installing an RCD

All hardware of the switchboard must be exclusively from trusted manufacturers and have appropriate certificates of conformity. It is important to remember that in many ways they are responsible for the safety of the owners and the safety of the building.

Prices for residual current devices (RCDs)

Residual current devices (RCDs)

How to make wiring in a wooden house - from the panel to the points of consumption

Now about one of the main points of wiring in a wooden house - the areas from the distribution board to the connection points for electrical appliances.

First of all, a few words about . Twisting must be avoided, even when using thick copper wires of the same cross-section. It is allowed to solder the wires and then cover the exposed part with plastic caps. The optimal solution would be to use special spring or screw terminal connections (for example, WAGO terminals). This is not so expensive, but will provide both reliable contact and the required protection against short circuits. In addition, such connections are easy to control and, if necessary, replace.

The optimal solution for a wooden house is an open arrangement of wiring on the walls. There are possibilities to place it hidden, but this will require large-scale and expensive work.

Methods for open wiring

For a long time, it has been common practice to place internal wiring cables along wooden structural elements on insulating rollers, providing a safe gap of 10 mm from the wall.

In some old houses, such wiring has been preserved to this day.

There are numerous fans of this retro style...

By the way, this fastening method has begun to come back into fashion - many owners prefer this retro wiring. For this purpose, special twisted cables of various colors are even produced.

...and you can even purchase special wiring

Video: retro wiring on wooden walls

However, such approaches should be taken seriously d It’s hardly appropriate to organize all the internal wiring. The number of electrical appliances and, accordingly, points of consumption in the average home has increased significantly, and laying many lines from the distribution board on rollers on top of the wall will look simply ridiculous.

Single cables with a cross-section of less than 6 mm² can be placed directly on the wall surface, fixing them with electrical clips appropriate size. The main condition for this is the presence of double (or even better, triple) cable insulation. For such purposes, the already mentioned wires of the VVGng or NIM brand are suitable. If wires in conventional insulation are used, then a fireproof gasket (asbestos or metal) will be required, protruding from both sides of the cable by at least 10 mm, and this is unlikely to decorate the interior of the room.
Electrical wiring can be placed in a polymer electrical pipe. The advantage of this approach is that several wires can be placed in one pipe. This will already look somewhat better than single cables, but still the aesthetics in this case are “lame” - the corrugation is not easy to place perfectly evenly, even with the use of clips. But the wires receive additional protection from external damage and the required gap from the wall is created.

For inconspicuous areas of wiring, for example, in utility or technical rooms, this method is probably optimal. However, it also has a drawback - if it is necessary to replace one cable, you will have to remove the corrugated lining from the entire bundle of wires.

Find out several available methods from our new article.

A sleeve made of a metal pipe where the wires pass through the ceiling

Polymers are becoming increasingly popular cable channels closed with a removable lid. They are produced in various sizes, that is, it is possible to select them for a single wire or for several parallel lines. They are made of non-flammable plastic, which increases the safety of the wiring.

Such boxes can be selected according to the most suitable color - they are not only white, but also tinted or having a decorative “wood-look” coating that will go well with the wall material.

A special advantage of such channels is the ease of maintenance or installation work with the cable part - you can always remove the cover to replace the problematic cable or add a new connection.

Considering that there are now many additional accessories for such cable channels– turns, external and internal corner elements, tees, plugs, etc., owners can use them to solve the problem of the required decorative wiring.

Video: open wiring in a wooden house using cable channels

Another type of similar cable channels are systems of electrical skirting boards. They are also equipped with all the necessary elements for straight sections, turns, corners, climbs to sockets and switches, and junction boxes. This allows you to maintain the overall design style of the room, despite the fact that the wiring will essentially be considered open.

Important note - installation cable channels should be carried out only after the initial shrinkage of the house and provided that the wood of the walls is well dried. Otherwise, even minor changes in the “geometry” of the room can cause deformation and even destruction of the boxes.

They also resort to placing open wiring in pipes, metal or polymer. Such a technology cannot be called convenient - each straight section is threaded separately, then a transition or rotary coupling is installed, and so on. Of course, the need to replace the cable part will also cause a lot of difficulties. This approach is more of a fashion statement, but not the optimal solution for outdoor wiring.

Sockets and switches installed with open wiring must have a fireproof gasket on the bottom. It’s good if this is provided for by their design itself. If not, you will have to cut out platforms from asbestos or metal.

You should immediately calculate the required number of sockets in a particular place in the room. The use of tees or extension cords during the operation of electrical appliances should be reduced to a minimum, or even better, completely eliminated.

Electric cable prices

Electrical cable

Hidden wiring in a wooden house

If the homeowners still prefer to completely hide the wiring, then they will be faced with very large-scale work.

To ensure complete fire safety, all wires must be replaced with a fireproof sheath, which can only be steel or copper pipe. The internal cavity of a steel pipe must be either painted or galvanized to prevent corrosion of the walls.

All transitions and turns are made using threaded elements or welding (soldering).
The horizontal sections of the pipes must have a slight slope so that the condensate formed in the cavity has an outlet to the outside. Special openings are also provided in places where moisture accumulation is most likely.

Only metal socket boxes are installed in the holes cut out for hidden placement of sockets and switches, which must be connected to the ground loop.

All branches are carried out only in distribution boxes, which must also be tightly connected to the pipes.
The entire pipe circuit must be grounded. to remove possible static voltage from it and prevent electric shock in the event of a possible breakdown of the cable insulation.

To prevent contact of the wire insulation with the sharp edges of the pipe, a centering plastic plug must be installed at the outlet.

Video: placing hidden wiring in metal pipes

Hidden wiring is also allowed in one more way - by marking a plaster layer with a thickness of at least 10 mm. However, this is not used often, if only for the reasons that covering natural wood with plaster is probably not the best option.

If you look at photographs or videos posted on the Internet, you can see a lot of examples where hidden wiring is placed in metal or plastic, or bundles of wires are simply laid in grooves made in wood. What no matter what “authoritative” experts write, convincing that such a method is completely safe, this is a gross violation of existing requirements. It’s hardly worth planting such a “time bomb” in your wooden house - the stakes are too high!

The article mentioned the ground loop more than once. However, this issue is so unique and important that it deserves a completely separate detailed publication, which will certainly find its place on the pages of our portal.

Electrical wiring in a wooden house is an important aspect in construction. Despite the fact that the wood that is used to build houses and cottages is treated with a variety of impregnations to increase fire resistance, this material still remains vulnerable. If you do not install the electrical network in your home according to the rules, you can put your family in danger.

If you want to install an electrical network in a wooden house yourself, you need to adhere to a certain set of rules - PUE and SNiP. They provide a short general list of requirements, subject to which you can protect yourself as much as possible and prevent fires in a wooden room. Do-it-yourself wiring in the house must be laid according to clear instructions and each step must be provided for.

PUE (electrical installation rules) – determines the requirements for the installation of an electrical network in premises. Compliance with the requirements of the PUE is considered expensive to implement, but a very advisable method. It is tough and labor-intensive to execute. For this reason, these rules are not often followed.

SNiP and PUE were prescribed in order to calculate absolute safety under the condition of any load flowing through the cable, to protect oneself from a short circuit or ignition of the line. If homemade wiring in a wooden house is not exposed to relatively high voltage, then this does not pose any particular danger.

Therefore, when laying electrical wiring in such a building, you should take into account all risk factors and make the right decision. Either the line is made in accordance with all the rules of the PUE and SNiP - expensive, but reliable, or it will be done faster and cheaper, but under high loads your home will become unsafe.

The regulation PUE-6 has special requirements for laying electrical wiring in wooden premises. To prevent moisture and steam condensation from accumulating on the cables, they are placed in pipes and metal sleeves or boxes are bent. This also gives the wires additional protection from mechanical damage.

It is allowed to connect such pipes, ducts or metal hoses if the room is dry, there is no accumulation of gas, vapor, condensation and the humidity level is normal. Connecting metal hoses, ducts and pipes is necessary under negative conditions in the house. They should be fastened together when the room contains vapors and gases that negatively affect the insulation of the cables, their protective sheath, as well as when installing the wiring externally, if moisture, oil and other liquids may enter the power line. After bonding, they are compacted and sealed.

In dusty houses, sealing joints and branches of pipes, hoses, and boxes are made to protect against dust and small debris. Connecting pipes, sleeves and boxes are used as a grounding or neutral protective conductor, performing the function of “ground” or “zero” in electrical wiring. It is prohibited to route cables through ventilation ducts and shafts. Only crossing with a single wire, which is located in a protective metal sleeve or pipe, is allowed.

Also, the laying of wires behind the suspended ceiling must be carried out in accordance with the standards of Chapter 7 of the PUE. When installing an electrical network in a private wooden house, the use of exclusively copper wires is required. You also need to carefully select the type of cable that can withstand the required load with a reserve. It is imperative to follow safety precautions when laying an electrical line in the house.

How not to do it

In order to install an electrical network into a wooden building, you cannot use all installation methods for stone houses or apartments. Do not install the wire on a wooden beam or other structures without protection. The main power line should not be covered with flammable materials or finishes. Do not allow the wiring insulation to be exposed to temperature changes, humidity, accumulation of dust and dirt on the wires, frequent deformation and bending of the wires. It is necessary to avoid increasing the load on the entire home network.

All these factors can cause damage to the wiring, resulting in a short circuit. If the exposed part of the electrical wiring ignites in a wooden house, then a fire is inevitable. Wires should also not be left unprotected. Pets or rodents may chew through the wire, which must be avoided. When processing wood near laid wires, a large amount of shavings and debris accumulates. In the event of a short circuit, the presence of flammable material will help ignite.

Entering cables into the house

Laying electrical cables into a private wooden house is a very important area of work. You should not focus entirely on the internal wiring in the building. The entry of the power cable into the house must meet modern requirements. It must be taken into account that energy consumption has increased, which increases the load on the line, as well as the impact on the external insulation of solar radiation, temperature changes, and moisture, which subsequently exposes the metal conductors of the wires. There are two possible ways to install a power line into a private house - underground and overhead.

The underground method of laying an electrical line is more reliable, but complex and expensive. The power transmission cable is completely hidden from external factors, which reduces the risk of mechanical damage to the wire, moisture ingress, etc. For this purpose, excavation work is carried out. The cable is placed at a depth of more than 80 centimeters, and the security zone must be marked with special signs. The passage of the power line under the foundation of the house is done with a special metal sleeve through which the wire passes. The sleeve is made of thick-walled pipes and durable metal.

Today, this method is used in the construction of new houses, since it is possible to think through the passage of all communications into the building using new construction technologies. Air method. This method has been used for a long time. Only qualified workers with appropriate clearance are allowed on power line poles. Therefore, you cannot enter the cable yourself.

A SIP type cable is used from the pole to the house. The self-supporting insulated wire has a very durable sheath of polyethylene structure and is resistant to solar radiation and temperature changes. Service life is about 25-30 years. This line does not go inside the building, only to the switchboard. For a separate section that connects the line connection point and the distribution device, a VVGng cable is used. Can be used for fixed wiring, as well as for outdoor wiring. For reliability, it is placed in an electrical corrugated pipe.

The connection usually takes place outside the building. Where the VVGng wire crosses through the wooden beams of the house, attic walls, or ceilings, a metal sleeve is built in for additional protection of the wire.

Video “Wiring in a log house”

Shield installation

When installing the shield, you need to follow the step-by-step instructions for installing it. All wiring goes directly to the distribution panel. It contains an electric meter, additional protective devices, automatic plugs (a modern way to de-energize an overvoltage network), a DIN rail, as well as ground loop and “zero” busbars. What dimensions the box should have is not regulated, but it is better not to skimp on this, so that it is possible to increase the equipment when the need for electricity increases.

The installation of the meter is carried out by specialists from a government agency, who seal it. The power of operating machines is calculated for each zone separately. When a sector is overloaded, the direct supply of electricity is turned off in order to avoid negative consequences. The RCD can be connected to the entire intra-house network. This may result in the machine triggering more frequently, but this is not critical. Installation of the shield is carried out on a strong, stable vertical surface in an accessible place. In private sectors it is located outside the building.

When connecting wires to the distribution panel, ordinary twisting is not used. For this purpose, soldering or terminal connections are used. The terminals are reliable and can be easily replaced if necessary. When choosing which method can best protect the electrical distribution panel, you can choose a protective sealed box, which will prevent moisture from entering and physical damage.

Open wiring

According to PUE-6 standards, open electrical wiring in a wooden house is laid on the surface of the walls of the building, along the ceilings, as well as along trusses and other building elements of the structure (supports, beams, etc.). Open wiring is laid along a tension string, cable, or on special wheels. Insulators are used for electrical cables and cords, metal pipes, more flexible with hands for line mobility, in trays. There are also special electrical skirting boards in which the wire is placed, platbands with this purpose, and free suspension.

Open wiring in a private wooden house involves the use of a special electrical corrugated pipe to create an electrical line. For its production, a special stable and non-flammable type of plastic is used. It is much more expensive than conventional insulating elements, but is justified by its reliability. This corrugated tube is very convenient for installation, as it is quite flexible. Despite its unesthetic appearance, this insulating material is one of the best for open wiring in a wooden house.

The electrical tube collects a large amount of dust due to some characteristics of the material, which requires constant care and wiping of dust from its surface. Electrical boxes can be used for installation of open wiring. After the construction of a private wooden house, channels are installed in special boxes, which are usually made of fire-resistant plastic. Cables are pulled into them and then sealed with lids.

The main problem with using such installation is the shrinkage of the building after construction. The higher quality the wooden beam used for construction, the lower the level of shrinkage of the house. If the building is made of laminated veneer lumber, then the shrinkage is usually 1 centimeter per 1 meter of house height. Then, over time, on average, for a two-story wooden house, the shrinkage will be about 3 centimeters. If the wiring was made with tension on the cord, then it may burst from excess tension and pressure. Otherwise, the lids of the boxes will fly off and they will crack. Then the wiring will need to be re-strung. Therefore, it is necessary to take into account shrinkage, make a small supply of wire at the joints, near the distribution panel, and also at the electric pole.

Hidden wiring

The PUE-6 standards stipulate that hidden wiring in a wooden house can be laid directly inside the structural elements of the building (wall, floor, ceilings, foundation), in the wooden floors, as well as under removable beams. Hidden electrical wiring in a house can be done in several ways - placing the cable in flexible protective sleeves, pipes, boxes, in hollow building structures or closed channels. Also, laying the wiring can be done in a grooved furrow, which is covered with special plaster, or creating a “monolith” in various building structures when they are manufactured at the factory.
It is recommended to begin installing hidden wiring in a wooden building using metal hoses or pipes to protect the room. By adhering to such rules, you can avoid the consequences of sparking wiring and overheating of cables from excessive load in the network.

Typically, hidden wiring is laid behind the wooden beams of the walls or floor. It is necessary that the protective elements are minimally vulnerable to corrosion. To do this, you need to pre-paint the structures with durable paint to reduce the likelihood of rusting and increase service life, or use pipes made of a special material - stainless steel (expensive and reliable), galvanized.

After the pipes and hoses have been cut to the required length, sharp iron burrs and edges remain at their ends, which should not be allowed when laying the cable. Since these edges can damage the braiding of the cord, they must be cleaned with a sharpening stone or file. Specially designed plastic plugs can be used.

If the electrical wiring in the house will be done under a wooden floor, then you need to raise several bars for more convenient laying of the hose or pipe. In the places where the wiring exits, to connect the fittings you need to drill in the timber. The wires coming from the main line can be placed in a copper tube and recessed into the wall. Copper is quite flexible, resistant to corrosion and is well suited for further installation work, but this material is quite expensive. If the electrical cables will be recessed into the wall, then you need to use a drill and a hammer drill. In this case, the beam is not removed, but a longitudinal hollow is drilled into it, where the wire will be laid in the future.

According to GOST and PUE, there is a standard for installing power lines in rooms with temperature changes. If a stable temperature corresponding to the season will not be maintained in a wooden house, then the pipes with cables should be placed at a slight slope. This is due to the fact that condensation can accumulate in such houses, which cannot be allowed. A slight slope will allow the accumulated condensate to gradually flow into the lower part of the pipe and gradually evaporate.
Since there is no point in using plaster in wooden houses, the wiring is usually placed on a wooden floor beam or between wall partitions where there are recesses.