Making a rabbitry with your own hands. How to make a rabbitry with your own hands: basic principles for beginner rabbit breeders How to make a rabbitry at home

Almost every owner of a country house has a small farm. Some people prefer to raise cattle, others poultry, and others like to raise fluffy and adorable rabbits. But for any household it is worth considering comfortable living conditions. If you have chosen rabbits and decided to make cages for them with your own hands, you should decide in advance on the location of the cages, their size and internal contents.

On your own plot of land, cages with livestock can be placed:

• on open air;
• indoors, such as a barn.

All cages for rabbits, depending on their location and breeding method, are divided into three types:

• year-round outdoor seating;
• year-round indoor maintenance;
• combined maintenance (outdoors in summer, in a barn in winter).

Many rabbit breeders believe that the best option for placing cages is to arrange them outdoors. This content has a beneficial effect on animals, promotes the development of immunity to diseases, and the presence of beautiful and high-quality hair. Breeding outdoors increases the productivity of females, increases the number of rabbits in one litter and promotes their endurance.

When choosing a place to install the cage, you should consider:

• air humidity. It should vary between 60-75%. That is, the place should be chosen on a hill and away from bodies of water;
• exposure to direct sunlight, which has a negative effect on animals. It is better to place the cages under trees or behind an artificial fence;
• the presence of drafts, which are a common cause of diseases in rabbits. Air movement should not exceed 30 m/s. Do not forget about high-quality ventilation in cages. Otherwise, the fumes will undermine the health of your pets.

Street cages

All rabbit cages may differ in:

• sizes;
• structures;
• manufacturing materials.

They are simple, two-tiered with additional amenities, such as heating. What kind of cage you need to build for your farm largely depends on the breed of rabbits, their size, the availability of building materials and personal preferences.

The advantages of setting up rabbit hutches outdoors include:

• availability of large space;
• ease of caring for animals;
• the ability to build convenient and affordable structures.

To build outdoor cages, you will need to prepare reliable materials. They must be resistant to moisture, frost and sudden temperature changes.

Important: the cage for rabbits must protect the animals from penetration by predators such as dogs, cats, foxes, and rats.

To prevent your pets from being bothered by direct sunlight and precipitation, make a canopy with a large canopy over the building. If you breed animals all year round, you need to take care of insulating one of the parts of the cage. Despite the fact that these animals tolerate low air temperatures well, it is necessary to create a cozy and warm place for them where they can bask.

Important: special attention is paid to the insulation of queen cells and the compartment with small rabbits.

Cages placed indoors

Structures placed in sheds can be made of a single metal mesh attached to a wooden frame. The floor must be made of wood.

If you raise rabbits indoors, it should be:

• well plastered;
• ventilated;
• illuminated in winter - at least 10 hours.

It would be nice if there was a window on the entire wall on the south side of the barn.

Combined rabbit breeding option

For the combined option of breeding animals, mobile cages are most suitable. In the warm season, it will be convenient to take them outside, and in the cold season, install them indoors.

If funds allow, you can make two versions of cages: one for the street, the other for the barn. But this option is unlikely to be suitable for those who breed a large number of animals.

Cell design and size

Rabbit cages can be single or multi-tiered. Depending on who they are intended for (fawns, young animals, adults), their design depends.

Single-tier and multi-tier structures

Single-tier cages are placed above the ground at a distance of 80 cm. The roof of the structures is covered with slate or metal sheet.

Important: if the cages are located outside, it is better to cover them with slate, since the metal gets very hot, and these animals do not tolerate heat well.

For easy care of animals, it is better to make the tray with a gutter for easy cleaning. In single-tier structures, metal pallets are installed for storing pet waste.

Multi-tiered cells can consist of two or more tiers. Each tier contains the required number of sections. They can be made from bars, galvanized mesh and boards. These materials are suitable for the construction of rabbit hutches both outdoors and indoors.

Multi-tiered products are often called sheds. In them, the tiers are placed one above the other. This helps save space. The ideal option is two-tier structures. They provide convenient care and monitoring of pets.

When building multi-tiered cages, there must be a space of at least 15 cm between each tier. A metal roof must be installed above each cage, and inclined ebbs must be installed in the space between each tier. This is necessary so that the animals’ waste does not fall on the lower tiers, does not linger on the roof, but flows into specially arranged drains behind the cages.

Some people prefer to use removable plastic trays in their cages. They are convenient and easy to use. Such pallets can be installed directly in the cages themselves, or on runners under the grated floor.

Cages for breeding

In breeding cages, it is necessary to install special chambers on the sides or provide space for a mobile queen cell. If you choose an inpatient department, then the removable floor, walls and ceiling are made solid. They must be well insulated so that the young offspring do not die from cold and draft. In the rest of the cage, the floor can be made of metal mesh or wooden blocks.

The mobile queen cell is a completely closed box with an opening for entry. This box should have an additional side door so that the queen cell can be conveniently cleaned and dried. This design is convenient in that it can be rearranged into different cells as needed. They are also much more convenient for changing bedding and cleaning. The building is insulated for feeding with shavings or hay.

If you are expecting offspring in the cold winter, the mobile queen cell should be placed in an electric heating pad to create comfortable conditions for the female rabbit a few days before the birth.

In winter, it is practically impossible to do without heating the uterine tract. If you do not have an electric heating pad, you can use a regular light bulb, which should be kept constantly on during this period. The light bulb must be placed in a compartment located behind the wall of the uterine chamber.

Attention: when choosing to heat the queen cell with an electric light bulb, take care of fire safety. The chamber in which the lamp will be located should first be sheathed with thin metal.

There is another method of heating this part of the cage using a heating cable for underfloor heating. It is fixed to the bottom of the queen cell, and a removable floor panel is placed on top of it.

Important: if you prefer this type of heating, make sure that the cable is intact and without defects. Such a heating system can be connected to a thermostatic regulator. This will allow you to regulate the temperature in the uterine compartment, depending on weather conditions.

If the cells are in a barn, it is better to use a mobile queen cell. Then it will be easier to ventilate and clean them outside. If you decide to make a built-in uterine chamber, the floor in it should be removable.

In two-section single-tier cages, the length of each section should be at least 100-120 cm, and the depth - 55-65 cm. The width of the built-in uterine chamber should be 35-40 cm.

Cages for young animals

Rabbits aged from three to five months are called young animals. They are kept in groups of 8-20 pieces. The height of the walls of the cages must be at least 35 cm. The total area is calculated based on the fact that there should be 0.25 square meters per animal.

Multi-tiered cages for young animals are installed outdoors and rise 75 cm from the ground. If the floor is made of wooden blocks, it is recommended to install a metal mesh on top. This way, you will protect the rabbits, who will gnaw the tree and scratch it with their paws. For older rabbits, you can make a mesh floor.

In winter, cages with young animals must be well insulated. For this, hay or straw is used, laid 2 cm thick.

Cage for adult rabbits

Cages for medium-sized adult rabbits should have a depth of 60-70 cm and a length of 100 cm. These are the minimum sizes for comfortable breeding of animals. They can be made using the same block structures. That is, in each block there are two cells separated by a wall.

To mate animals, it is worth considering combining two cages into one using a removable partition. For adult rabbits, it is recommended to make the floor from galvanized mesh.

Attention: adults must move freely around the cage. Their growth and development will depend on this.

Cage with aviary for walking

Cages with an aviary for walking are suitable for both young animals and rabbits of reproductive age. This design should consist of two separate compartments with a partition, a roof and a mesh enclosure. The two compartments are connected by a round or square entrance cut into the rear wall of the structure. Thanks to the convenient design, the animals move easily inside, which contributes to their proper development and growth.

The cage with a walk can be any size. It is good if its depth varies between 60-65 cm, and the depth of the enclosure - 80-100 cm. Such structures consist of single-tier blocks consisting of two separate cells. A mesh enclosure is attached to the back of the cages if there is space.

Cages for giant rabbits

Since the giant breed is a large rabbit, the cages for them must have appropriate sizes. Giants grow to considerable sizes. Their length is 55-65 cm, and their weight varies from 5.5 to 7.5 kg. When building housing for large breeds, it is worth starting from the weight and height of the animals.

For one adult, a cage is required with dimensions of 96 cm in length, 70 in depth, and 60-70 cm in height.

For young animals of the giant breed, housing may be a little simpler. For eight animals you need a cage with an area of ​​1, 2 square meters. m. Its height must be at least 40 cm.

Important: giant rabbits have an impressive weight. Therefore, the bottom of the cells should be pre-strengthened. When making a mesh floor, preference is given to thick wire, 2 mm thick. To prevent the mesh from bending under the weight of the animals, it is necessary to secure bars underneath it. If you plan to install plastic or rubber trays in cages, it is better to make a solid field under them

California rabbit cage

Californian rabbits are quite popular among breeders. They are absolutely unpretentious in care and resistant to severe frosts. Adults reach a length of up to 50 cm, and their weight ranges from 4.5 to 5 kg. The cage for this breed should be 0.5 sq.m. Since this breed's paws are covered with coarse hair, the floor can be made of lattice or mesh.

If you breed rabbits only for meat, they can be kept in a hole measuring 200 by 200 cm and about a meter deep. The walls of the pit should first be reinforced with slate, and boards or mesh should be laid on the floor. For safety, a small fence and roof are built around the pit. This method of breeding animals is as close to natural as possible and gives good results. Rabbits love to dig holes in the ground. With proper care, they will delight their owners with numerous offspring.

Making your own cells

Having decided to build cozy houses for rabbits, you need to decide in advance on the type of structure, its dimensions and materials of manufacture. You will need to prepare:

• hacksaw;
• hammer;
• corner;
• plane;
• screwdriver

Any type of cage will consist of: a frame, walls, floor, ceiling and doors. As a rule, when building houses for these animals, metal mesh or natural wood is used.

As for materials for construction, you should prepare:

• large sheets of plywood;
• slate;
• nails and screws;
• bars;
• slats;
• galvanized mesh.

To make doors, you will need to additionally prepare curtains and latches.

Having chosen wood as the main building material, it should be sanded and sanded in advance. All sharp edges are processed so that the animal does not get hurt. Since rabbits wear down their teeth on wood, there should always be branches in the cages. Otherwise, they will simply chew on their housing.

Feeders and drinkers for rabbit cages

In addition to the construction of cells, it is necessary to carefully consider their internal arrangement. Food and water should be provided to the animals in a comfortable way. Feeders can be purchased ready-made in a store or made on your own.

Rabbits need plenty of clean water every day. If you just pour it into a plate, dirt and debris will get into it, or animals will constantly spill water. When choosing a drinking bowl, you should decide on its:

• manufacturing materials;
• location;
• volume;
• type of construction.

Attention: if the drinking bowl is made of thin plastic, animals will quickly gnaw through it. And in metal cans the water will become cloudy and dirty.

Automatic drinkers

Automatic shelves are most often used on farms where there are a lot of livestock. This design is quite simple and consists of: a bowl connected to a container. The bowl of water is always inside the cage, and the container is outside. It is easy to use and durable.

The principle of operation of this drinking bowl is quite simple: as the water from the bowl decreases, a new portion from the container enters it.

Attention: making such a drinking bowl with your own hands is quite difficult. It is easier to purchase it ready-made in the store.

Nipple drinkers

Nipple designs are practical and convenient. The liquid does not spill into them and remains in the tube until the animal begins to drink. The only drawback of such a product is that in the cold season the liquid can simply freeze in the tube.

Vacuum drinker

You can easily build a vacuum drinker with your own hands from a simple plastic bottle. You can make such a drinker as follows:

1. A bowl with a flat bottom should be fixed at a height of 10cm from the floor on the cage so that one half of it is inside the structure and the other is outside.
2. We take a simple plastic bottle of one or two liters and fill it with water. We close the bottle with a lid, turn it upside down and place it on a bowl. We secure the bottle to the cage with clamps or wire.
3. Carefully unscrew the lid and the bowl will automatically fill with water. As the animals drink water from the drinking bowl, it will be replenished with new liquid to a certain level.

Throttle drinker

The throttle drinker works on the principle of a conventional washbasin. You can also make it yourself. To do this, you will need to take a plastic bottle, make a small hole in the cap and attach the choke. A rubber gasket can be used as a valve. It will hold the throttle well and close the hole in the lid.

The drinking bowl is attached in a vertical position to the cage at a height of 30 cm from the floor.

Hanging drinker

A hanging drinker is also made from a bottle. It is suspended horizontally on a wire, at a height of 30 cm from the floor. To make this design, it is necessary to make a cutout in the bottle, 10 cm wide along the entire length, retreating only 5 cm from the bottom and lid of the product.

The hanging drinking bowl is attached to the outside of the cage - with a cut hole facing inward.

Feeders

It is worth considering the design of feeders at the design stage of cage construction. You can feed your rabbits using:

With the right approach to breeding rabbits, you can achieve good results. If the cages are built in accordance with all standards and requirements, and feeders, drinkers and queen cells are correctly located in them, your pets will feel as comfortable as possible, will quickly develop and gain weight.

Raising rabbits is not an easy task. One of the components of their successful breeding is proper maintenance of the livestock. The housing in which the animals are housed should be moderately large and comfortable; it should also be easy for the owner to keep it clean.

Requirements for a rabbitry

The rabbit house must meet the following basic requirements:

• must be optimal in size;
• built from available materials in a price-quality ratio;
• must be durable;
• have a strong frame;
• designed in such a way that it is convenient to assemble and disassemble;
• must comply with sanitary and hygienic standards;
• the design must provide for the possibility of insulation in winter;
• It should be convenient for the rabbit breeder to clean the cage, feed and water the animals.

Important! When making cages for rabbits, it is important to use only natural materials. Artificial ones can release toxins that are harmful to animals.

Types of designs and their features

There are several main types of rabbit hutches - they are built depending on the needs of the rabbit breeder. So, one or several individuals, a mother with babies, or only young animals, can live in a cage. Also, the rabbitry can be two-level or three-level. Next, we will consider the most popular and tested housing projects for rabbits.

A single-level rabbitry is usually built for one animal. Its dimensions in width and height range from 60 cm, and the width of the cage can be from one and a half meters or more. If the size allows, you can walk young animals in such a rabbitry. Used on farms with few animals. The cage can be made of metal or wood and must have a door.

Approximate dimensions and drawings of a mesh building are as follows:

The rabbit house can be two-sectional. The structure can be made of either wood or metal mesh. An opening partition can be made between the sections for easy pairing. The frame of the enclosure must be strong enough; Instead of a floor, you can use both boards and mesh. The cage can contain two adults, a female with babies, and young animals. The minimum dimensions of the entire structure must be at least one and a half meters in length, 70 cm in width and a meter in height; It should be remembered that the cage must be at a certain level from the ground. Wooden dwellings can be insulated in winter, and metal cages can be moved to the barn.

The grid construction scheme is as follows:

A two-section wooden building can be the following structure:

To save space, any cages can be placed in several tiers.

For example, like this:
In a rabbitry of three sections you can keep adults, mothers with babies, and walk young animals. The larger the building, the more functional it is. It must be remembered that one adult animal needs from half to 0.7 square meters of area for good functioning. Half a meter of space will be enough for a female rabbit, while young animals need 0.12 meters per head.

In three-section cages, you can make partitions for ease of mating. Sections are equipped at their own discretion. So in one of them you can make a queen cell - for this, a box with dimensions of 35 centimeters in length, 25 in width and 30 centimeters in height is placed in the cage. It will contain the offspring during the first 20 days of living with the mother.

The possible scheme of a three-level cell is as follows:

A mesh cage can be like this:

A compartment for mothers and babies can be built as follows:

The designs developed at the Klenovo-Chegodaevo state farm are popular.

The rabbitry diagram looks like this:
It can contain adults, a female with cubs. The length of the entire block should be 140 cm, and the width about 70 cm. The peculiarity lies in the different heights of the rear and front walls of the rabbitry: because of this, the floor is located at an angle, which makes cleaning the home convenient. It can be made from either boards or mesh. Feeders and drinkers are located inside.

Those who cannot devote much time to rabbits can successfully use the rabbitry created by Academician Mikhailov. The cage structure is designed in such a way as to provide the animals with a weekly supply of food and water. Lighting, an excrement collection system, winter heating and summer ventilation are also provided. Up to twenty-five individuals can be kept in such a house at the same time. These can be adult rabbits, young animals, female rabbits with offspring.

The drawing of such a dwelling is as follows:

Zolotukhin cages are successfully used to maintain large rabbit populations. The design is a three-tier rack with two cells in each compartment. The floor in each part of the enclosure is inclined towards the back wall and is made of flat slate or boards. Between them and the back of the building there is a mesh 10–20 cm wide - it is on it, according to many years of research, that rabbits relieve themselves. Urine and almost 70% of solid feces pass through the mesh. This leaves a small amount of feces in the main room.

In winter, for breeding, a box of standard sizes is used, which is placed in the compartment with the rabbit, and in summer, the mother and the babies are in the hay. The feeders are built into the door; there is no need to open it to replenish and clean them.

The scheme of Nikolai Zolotukhin’s rabbitry is as follows:

How to choose a place

It is important to choose the right place on the site for the rabbitry.

1. Rabbits tolerate cold better than heat, so their home should not be exposed to direct sunlight.. It would be optimal to build a canopy over the cage. It will protect the animals not only from the sun, but also from rain and snow.
2. You can’t put the building in a place that is blown by the winds - rabbits are very picky about drafts. The rabbitry site should be protected from them by trees, bushes, and a fence.
3. A good location for the rabbit's home would be near outbuildings and a water source.. With this arrangement, you will not need to travel a long distance to feed and water the animals.
4. Cages should not be placed near the compost pit.. As a rule, various pathogenic bacteria multiply in it, and rabbits are very sensitive to various types of infections.
5. Ideally, the rabbit's home should be located on a dry hill. Moisture and dampness should not accumulate in the place - on the contrary, they should escape from there without hindrance. Animals cannot tolerate dampness and can get sick.
6. If possible, there should not be a dog kennel or chicken coop near the rabbitry.. Rabbits are frightened by loud noise and its excess can affect their well-being.

Important! A large number of animals cannot be kept in one cage. Their accumulation can lead to the spread of infectious diseases and mortality.

How to build a rabbitry with your own hands

Experienced rabbit breeders say that building a rabbit house with your own hands is optimal. It can be done using existing drawings of convenient and proven designs, or you can improve them to your liking.
Construction of a homemade rabbitry involves the use of readily available materials and tools. So, the following shows how to build a four-section rabbit cage with your own hands.

Size calculations

The overall dimensions of the structure will be within two meters of length, a meter of width and 55 centimeters of height. In this case, 20 centimeters of the latter will fall on the hay, and the remaining 35 will be the internal height of the cage. One animal will occupy an area of ​​1 meter by 50 cm.

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Materials and tools for work

To build a rabbitry you will need the following materials:

• two beams with a square section of 5 by 5 cm, 2 meters long;
• three beams with a square section of 5 by 5 cm, length 190 cm;
• two bars with a square section of 5 by 5 cm, 1 meter long;
• five bars with a square section of 5 by 5 cm and a length of 90 cm;
• four beams with a square section of 5 by 5 cm, length 55 cm;
• six square bars 30 cm long;
• a mesh measuring one meter by two with window sizes of 12.5 by 50 mm and a wire diameter of 2 mm;
• mesh for partitions with window sizes 25 by 25 mm and wire diameter 0.8 mm;
• slats 3 by 3 mm square for the production of partitions;
• metal mesh measuring 190 cm by 90 cm with windows 5 by 5 cm and wire diameter 1.6 mm;
• cladding boards about 10 cm wide, the total footage of which is about 10 meters;
• boards for door frames 3 by 5 cm;
• corners;
• hinges for fastening doors;
• door locks;
• sheet iron measuring 1 meter by 2 meters;
• pieces of iron;
• eight slats 1 meter long;
• materials for the nipple drinker, namely a pipe with a diameter of 2 mm, a plug, a straight coupling, a tee, four nipples.

The following tools are required:

• hammer;
• roulette;
• self-tapping screws;
• corners;
• hinges for fastening doors;
• door locks;
• drills for 9 and 25;
• drill.

Phased construction

The construction of a rabbitry can be divided into several stages. First the main frame is made, after the door, and at the very end the roof. The time spent on making the building is one daylight if you have the appropriate skills.

Frame and assembly

To build a frame, you need to do the following:

1. Take two 2-meter bars and two 1-meter bars and connect them with self-tapping screws to form a rectangle.
2. Insert three 90-centimeter bars between the long bars so that the distance between them is 50 cm. They should be parallel to the meter bars. The result is a rectangle of beams, divided into cells.
3. A mesh with windows 12.5 by 50 mm with a wire diameter of 2 mm is attached to this frame with self-tapping screws.
4. The mesh is attached with self-tapping screws along the entire perimeter and along the transverse beams. This will be half the cage.
5. Beams 55 cm long are vertically attached to the corners of the frame using corners and self-tapping screws.
6. They are reinforced in length and width by beams, which are attached at a distance of 35 cm from the frame. Accordingly, these are bars 190 and 90 cm long.
7. Long beams are reinforced with bars 30 cm long. They are attached perpendicular to the long beams at their junction with the transverse bars of the lower frame at a distance of 50 cm.
8. Next, partitions are made. They are made from slats with a section of 3 by 3 cm. They are made in the form of a rectangle. The length is equal to the distance between the 30-centimeter bars, and the height is measured from their beginning at the frame to the end of the second long beam. Their approximate size around the perimeter is 90 by 35 cm.
9. A mesh with windows 25 by 25 mm, wire diameter 0.8 mm, is attached to the perimeter partitions on top.
10. When the partitions are ready, they are attached using self-tapping screws and angles to the transverse bars and 30-centimeter beams.
11. A board 90 cm long and about ten cm wide is attached to each partition on top. The feeder will subsequently be attached to it.
12. On top of the entire structure with installed partitions, a mesh with 5 by 5 cm windows is attached with self-tapping screws. It should cover the entire frame with partitions from above.

Video: building a rabbitry

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Sheathing

After building the frame, it is necessary to cover it with wooden boards.

1. First, nail them to the side walls of the cage along the entire width and height. As a result, the front and back parts of the frame remain unsewn.
2. The back part is sewn up to the beginning of the hay, that is, to the end of the second long bar. Leave approximately 2cm in height between the bottom of the cage and the boards below. Through this opening, unnecessary remains of animal activity will be cleaned from the back side.

After finishing the covering, the result is a structure that looks like a bed with side backs and mesh partitions inside.

Roof

The roof of the cage is made sloping towards the rear wall. To secure it, you need the following:

1. At a distance of 3 cm from the top along the length of the cage, the remaining beam 190 cm long is attached using corners. It is parallel to all the long beams.
2. Eight slats about 1 meter long are attached perpendicularly to this beam, which descend to the rear wall. They will support the roof.
3. Sheet iron is fastened with self-tapping screws along the entire perimeter of the rabbitry. At the joints with the racks, additional linings are made to prevent moisture from entering the main room.

Doors

Cage doors are made and fastened as follows:

1. Boards are nailed to the side walls and partitions to secure the doors. In width they should overlap the casing and vertical post, and in length they should be 30 cm and cover the long crossbars. Wooden spacers are placed under the board to add width.
2. It is necessary to attach the boards to the frame with self-tapping screws.
3. Frames for the door are made from slats. Their size should be such that there is a gap of 5 mm between the frame and the board for fastening them to allow the door to move freely.
4. The frame slats must be fastened together using overhead corners.
5. Each door is covered with a mesh with windows 25 by 25 mm and a wire diameter of 0.8 mm. When attaching the doors, the mesh will be inside the cage.
6. The doors are attached to the frame using awnings.
7. The locks are screwed on.
8. The tightness of the doors to the frame can be adjusted using self-tapping screws screwed into the frame.

Ladder

In arranging the cage, you can use so-called ladders. In production form, they are a plastic grid of different sizes, which is placed on the bottom of the cage. You can make it yourself from thin wooden slats.
The ladder is useful because in winter it protects the animal’s paws from contact with the metal bottom of the home. It also prevents pododermatitis and corns in animals. It is recommended to use a wooden structure - rabbits feel more comfortable on it.

Arrangement inside

The rabbitry must be equipped with feeders, drinkers, and ventilation if necessary.

In the rabbitry described above, the feeders are attached to boards that are nailed to the top of the partitions. They can be secured there with self-tapping screws. It is also possible to install a feeder in the door. It is better to fix it in such a way that it can turn over and be convenient to clean.

Rabbit hutches with mesh floors and ceilings that are installed outdoors generally do not require additional ventilation. It happens naturally. If you still need to do it additionally, just drill a few small holes above the rabbits’ heads to increase the air flow. However, if animals are kept in barns, additional ventilation is necessary. It is made using corrugated pipes and an anemostat (a device for regulating the amount of air flowing through the pipes). An anemostat can be purchased at an online store of industrial goods.

Various types of drinkers are used in the cages. The most convenient are nipple ones - they are made, as a rule, from a plastic pipe with a diameter of 2 mm, plugs, tees and nipples.

You can make a nipple drinker for one compartment, or you can lay a pipe at the top of the cage from which branches will go to each compartment. To do this, two holes are drilled on the sides at a height of 25 cm from the bottom of the cage. The main pipe passes through them, from which, using a tee, branches are made into each part of the rabbitry. The outlet ends with a nipple through which the animal drinks water.

The cage can be equipped with an additional visor, which improves the washing process. It is made from a piece of iron about 10 cm wide and is installed along the length of the cage below the doors. This design reduces the ingress of dirt back into the rabbit's home when removing residual manure with water. Also, excrement does not fall on the door.

Important!The mesh with which the cage is equipped must be secured in such a way that there are no sharp corners or remnants of wire left in any place. They can cause injury to the animal.

How to heat in winter

Sometimes in winter it may be necessary to insulate the cage. You can make heating using felt, old blankets, hay, pine needles. Also, a heat insulator such as polystyrene foam is ideal for external insulation.

A slight frost in itself will not harm the animals; it is important to avoid high humidity in the enclosures. It is necessary to ensure that snow and other precipitation does not get into the cages. For this purpose, sheets of iron are suitable, which can be used to trim the rabbitry from the outside.

Experienced rabbit breeders, without using artificial heating, line the entire cage inside with hay. Rabbits heat it with their breath and it retains heat well.
In severe frosts, it is necessary to provide the animals with a more or less warm floor. To do this, the bottom of the cage, if it is metal, is covered with a thick layer of hay. For wooden floors, you can use the above-mentioned ladders, which protect the floor well from freezing.

In severe frosts, you can keep animals in sheds. It is for this purpose that all cages are designed in such a way that they are convenient to carry. There are also heating and water heating projects in winter.

Did you know? Hares are solitary by nature. Rabbits live in groups and are therefore social animals. This is the main difference between these long-eared animals and each other.

Rabbit hutch care

Rabbits are quite fastidious animals and require proper care. If it is not done in full, there is a high risk of infecting animals with various diseases.

The bedding in the cage needs to be changed as it gets dirty, preferably once a day. Rabbits can eat excrement and with it various harmful bacteria enter the body. Very often, it is dirty cages that cause the death of livestock.

In addition to bedding, feeders and drinking bowls should be kept clean. The former need to be cleaned daily of dirt and food residues, especially if the latter was of plant origin. Rotting food threatens diseases. The water in drinking bowls should always be clean. The drinking devices themselves need to be regularly cleaned of the green deposits that often form in them.

When soiled, it is necessary to wash the cells; you can simply wash off the remaining excrement and dirt with water. At least once every few months, and more often in the summer, you need to treat rabbit homes with boiling water and disinfectants. Hot water, like chemicals, kills many pathogenic bacteria.

Features of keeping rabbits

Keeping rabbits is not easy. In addition to good cells, you need to provide them with proper balanced nutrition. You can feed the animals with special feed, or you can cook the food yourself. In the latter case, it is important not to overfeed animals with food containing large amounts of protein - this causes them to develop a number of diseases. Rabbit food should always be fresh and of high quality.

Another component of rabbit health is the constant availability of fresh water in sufficient quantities. Drinkers should be designed and placed in the cage in such a way that as little dirt as possible gets into them. In winter, it is important to provide animals with water at room temperature. To do this, you need to either change it frequently, or equip the drinking bowls with heating.

In the process of breeding rabbits, every rabbit breeder is faced with infectious diseases that these animals suffer from quite often. To prevent them, you need to monitor the cleanliness of the enclosures in which animals are kept, properly water and feed them, and also do the necessary vaccinations.
Creating comfortable living conditions for furry pets is the main task of any rabbit breeder. In most cases, they prefer not to buy ready-made cells, but to make them themselves. This is much cheaper in material terms; In addition, you can make just such an enclosure that will be convenient for a specific livestock.

Among various domestic animals, rabbits occupy a special place. Their maintenance is quite profitable: the owner receives meat and fur, but gives away very little. To make a good profit from rabbits, you will need to follow some maintenance standards. And although a lot depends on nutrition and care, first of all you need to think about the cells.

If for cows, chickens or goats it is enough to have a simple barn, then for rabbits it is worth taking care of special conditions. The optimal solution on the issue of price - quality - make your own rabbit cage. This is not only cheaper, but you can take into account all the characteristics of the breed being bred and the location. What material is suitable for this and what points should be taken into account, we will talk about this in the article and present photos and drawings of some cages for rabbits.

Where to place the cells

When choosing a place to breed domestic rabbits and place their cage, it is important to avoid wind and drafts.

But it doesn’t matter at all whether the cage is outdoors or indoors.

In addition to weather conditions, the number and size of the rabbit cage are taken into account.

With normal breeding, one cell will not be enough. You will need a room for pregnant rabbits, their babies and males, and this is a whole residential complex.

Dimensions - the dimensions of finished rabbit cages largely depend on the breed of pets, but there are minimum values, which are calculated based on the data given in the table.

Technological elements of a rabbit farm	Maximum number of rabbit heads per unit area	Standard area for 1 rabbit head, sq.m.	Dimensions, m
			Length	Width
For main herd rabbits
Two-section rabbit cage Nest compartment	1	0,5-0,65 0,18	0,6-0,7	0,9 0,36
Group cages for keeping rabbits in sheds (sheds)
For young animals	6	0,1	0,9	0,672
For replacement young animals: females males		0,15 0,605		0,672 0,672
Individual cages for keeping rabbits in sheds (sheds)
For young animals	1	0,13-0,16	0,29-0,36	0,45
For replacement young animals	1-2	0,22-0,32	0,48-0,72	0,45

The height of cages for both domestic rabbits and rabbits kept on industrial rabbit farms is taken to be at least 45 centimeters.

Size of the rabbit nest box: length – 50 cm, width – 36 cm, height 30-4 cm.

When making cages for keeping rabbits, galvanized metal mesh is used, the cell size of which is 24x24-50 mm, the floors are 16x48 mm.

Farmers can take care not only of the housing of their wards, but also of a place for walking.

Photo of wooden cages for raising rabbits

Materials for cells

The choice of material, as well as the location, must be treated with care. Usually they try not to use metal parts in the construction of cages. The frame and supports of the cage can be assembled from wooden parts. The choice of wall material is more varied; you can use board, plywood or mesh. The final option will depend on the climate zone and the location of the cells.

Some tips for selecting and preparing material:

• The cell size of a rabbit cage should be small;
• To attach the mesh, you can use wooden or plastic slats;
• It is important to ensure the safety of the animals inside the cage. For this purpose, all wooden parts are processed.

Making a rabbit cage and its dimensions

The optimal size of the cage - housing for adult individuals is 1500x700x700 mm. If you make the floor from mesh or wooden slats, then caring for the rabbits will be more convenient. Waste products will be automatically removed from the cells. The outdoor version is assembled with a two-level floor, where the bottom layer is made of boards.

The roof for the rabbit hutch is made of the same material as the walls. But if you plan to keep it outside, then you need to take care of protection from precipitation. Can be covered with slate or other similar non-metallic material. If the roof is made of metal, then in sunny weather it will heat up and it will become very hot inside.

It is recommended to place the finished cells at a short distance from the floor or ground. This will provide protection from rodents and make caring for domestic rabbits convenient. Rabbit feeding equipment should not become dirty. Some have solved this issue by making retractable or hanging feeders.

A little more about the size of the rabbitry. The front wall of the cage should be approximately 10-15 cm higher than the back wall. The entire area of ​​the finished home is divided into several sections, which are connected to each other by small manholes. A hinged lid will help make maintenance a little easier.

It is worth mentioning once again that the size of the cage for rabbits largely depends on the breed, number and location of keeping. But there are general recommendations for any type of cell:

• The section in which males are planned to be kept must be large enough. This will allow the animals to move freely and not become lazy, otherwise they will be unable to give birth.
• A separate spacious cage is allocated for the rabbits. This section can accommodate up to four pieces. It is important to take into account that at first the baby rabbits are kept next to their mother for fattening.
• Make one free cage in which the rabbits can be fattened. Some babies do not gain enough weight while spending time with their mother.
• The hole into the nesting compartment should be raised by about ten centimeters. To prevent it from being chewed, you can trim the edges with steel. But do it carefully, without leaving any nicks.
• The front wall should be equipped with two doors - one for the main compartment, the second for the nest. And if the first option can be mesh, then the latter is necessarily solid.
• Outdoor cages for domestic rabbits can be equipped with a manhole for walking. To do this, a hole is made in the back walls into a special pen, fenced with a net. This will give the rabbits the opportunity to frolic and enjoy fresh grass.

Making a rabbit cage with your own hands is not that difficult. If you apply the tips written above, then you can hope for a good increase in profits and convenient care for the animals.

Drawings and photos of cages for rabbits

Photo of a wooden cage for raising rabbits on a home plot with dimensions

Cage for three adult rabbits (for home keeping). Consists of two levels. The lower level has double doors that open wide for easy access to the cage. The upper level consists of two separate compartments connected by an entrance. One of the cage compartments is designed for rabbits to sleep. The other compartment is covered with mesh and this area can also be opened for easy access (great for cleaning the cage and for grooming and feeding rabbits). The design of this cage is quite simple, and you can make it yourself to keep rabbits in your garden.

The photo shows rabbit cages made of wood and metal mesh

Photos of cages with walking for rabbits

Drawings of cages for rabbits and their young

Drawing of an adobe cage (1), a wattle-clay cage (2), a combined cage with a run for keeping rabbits (3), a cage from a box (4)

Drawings of cages for keeping rabbits at home

Industrial cages for keeping and raising rabbits

Photo of one and two-tier cages for twelve rabbits with offspring (dimensions 2.3 x 2.05 m)

The photo shows one and two-story cages for fattening meat (up to 144 heads)

Video tutorials for constructing cages for rabbits

Video about making a rabbit cage with your own hands:

Rabbit breeding is quite common. The meat of this animal is considered dietary; they are bred quickly enough and do not require a special diet. All this together allows their breeding for families of any income. People living in Russia are also not lagging behind - they have decorative breeds as pets. However, for any animal it is necessary that it will be comfortable. Today we’ll talk about making a structure such as a rabbit cage with your own hands (step-by-step instructions with photo examples will help you figure out how to build it).

Only at first glance it seems that all cells are the same. In fact, there are differences between them. They may differ in height (1, 2 or 3 tiers), age of the eared (for adults or young animals). For different breeds, the cells differ in size (dwarf, regular, giant). Also, designs may differ depending on the direction of the rabbits, which can be decorative or productive. We invite you to familiarize yourself with examples of such structures in the photo.

DIY cages for domestic rabbits:

Two-tier rabbit cages for small areas:

1 of 8

Other wooden rabbit cages:

1 of 6

Rabbit cages

How to build a cage for a decorative rabbit with your own hands: drawing up a drawing, algorithm of actions

In order to build a cage for a decorative rabbit, you will need to complete a preliminary drawing. It can be done by hand on a regular piece of paper or use any computer paper. You can see approximately what the scheme will look like in the photo.

Drawings of rabbit cages that can be used to build a house:

Helpful information! When designing, it is worth considering a home for a decorative rabbit in such a way that it can move freely without sitting in one place. When installing a cage in a limited space, it is better to make it in two tiers with the ability to move from one to another.

After drawing up the drawing, you can begin assembly, for which you will need to have on hand:

• plywood or ;
• plastic or ;
• bars for the frame;
• mesh;
• construction stapler or small nails with;

To begin with, plywood (chipboard) is sheathed with plastic or linoleum, which is secured with a stapler and nails. After this, the frame is assembled and interfloor ceilings are installed. Lastly, the frame is covered with mesh.

Important! If the cage has 2 floors, then two doors are made: one at the bottom at the end, the second at the top, in the form of a hatch. This will make it easier to remove the rabbit and transplant it to another place while cleaning.

Examples of cages for decorative rabbits in the photo

Having looked at examples of ready-made houses, it will be easier to understand how to properly make a cage for a decorative breed of rabbit.

Examples of finished cages for decorative breeds of rabbits:

How to make a two-tier rabbit cage with your own hands: nuances

If this is not the first time a person is engaged in such work, then, as such, he no longer needs a drawing - everything that is required is “stored” in his head. However, it is better for novice home craftsmen to sketch out a schematic representation of the future house for long-eared pets.

Drawings of cages for rabbits with dimensions: examples

In order for the dear reader not to reinvent the wheel, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with examples of schematic images of various types of such cells.

Drawings of various types of cages for rabbits for your own production:

Do-it-yourself two- or three-tier cage for rabbits: step-by-step instructions with photo examples

Having understood how to draw a drawing, you can proceed directly to construction. The editors of the site will tell you in detail how to make cages for rabbits, supporting the text information with photo examples.

How to make a cage for rabbits with your own hands: installation of the frame and the bottom of one of the tiers

So, let's look at the sequence of work:

Illustration	Description of action
	To make a frame from the material, you will need timber (the length of the timber is indicated in the photo). We trim the ribs that will be inside the cage with a corner - this will protect the wood from sharp rabbit teeth. The end result should be a fairly large rabbit cage.
	First, we assemble the sides of the frame of the future cage. The parts are fastened together using angles and self-tapping screws with a press washer 40 mm long.
	Having measured a distance from the edge equal to the future door, mark it and attach a partition from a pre-prepared part - this will add strength and ensure fastening of the hatch. We perform the same actions on the other side.
	Between the doorways we install 2 bars in the shape of the letter “V”. Subsequently, it will be in which fresh burdock or cabbage leaves are placed.
	Having assembled 2 similar partitions, we connect them with pieces of timber using the same corners and screws. The only difference is that it is better to take reinforced corners for these purposes.
	As a result, we get this frame, which is ready for covering, however, the bottom should be made first. Often a mesh is used for this purpose, but long-eared animals can fall into the cells with their paw and damage it, so we choose another option.
	To install the bottom you will need slats measuring 24x12 mm, a drill, and the same self-tapping screws with a press washer 40 mm long. A drill is used here to drill the slats to avoid splitting them.
	Having fixed the first rail, we lay two without fasteners, screwing only the third one. This allows you to measure exactly 48 mm without a tape measure or extra marks, which means it saves time. We repeat these steps until the bottom is completely covered.
	When this work is completed, we fix one more between the fixed slats. So the gaps between them will be of such a size that will not allow the rabbits to fall between the strips.
	The last step is to cut off the excessively protruding parts. You should not do this as in the photo - with a metal cutting disc. It may overheat. It is better to use a hacksaw or.

We sheathe the frame and install the tiers in place

Now let’s proceed to covering the frame and further installing the tiers of the cage:

Illustration	Description of action
	First, the mesh is attached to the feeder in such a way that the bars remain inside the cage, and the fastening screws are on the outside - this will eliminate the risk of injury for the rabbits.
	Having installed 4 racks in the corners, we fasten the first tier with corners, cover it with a sheet of galvanized metal, and fix the stop for the second floor a little higher. There must be a distance between the tiers that will allow production.
	We perform the same actions with galvanizing on the second floor. Please note that the photo shows a technological opening that makes cleaning easier.
	The third tier is installed in a similar way. Their number depends on the wishes of the owner, however, it is worth remembering that cages that are too high will be inconvenient to maintain. You can't run around rabbit houses
	Lastly, we install the doors. Making them is not difficult, you just need to assemble the frame to size and cover it with mesh. The doors can be hung on any hinges, you can even use piano hinges.
	Now all that remains is final disinfection before moving in. Using a torch, we burn wooden surfaces - in addition to destroying microbes, this action allows you to remove burrs that remain after cutting. At the end of the firing, the cage is treated with an antiseptic, after which the first residents can be moved into it.

As you can see, you just need to put your hands to it - there is nothing super complicated in building homemade cages for rabbits.

Installation of a rabbit cage made of mesh: what you need

In fact, everything is quite simple here. Using wire cutting pliers, we cut the walls to the required sizes, which are subsequently sewn together with aluminum or copper wire. It would be more logical to make the door from the end of the structure. Sheet bending is also used. When using it, the long walls, floor and ceiling of the cage will be made of solid mesh and sewn together only on one edge.

Helpful information! Such houses for eared animals are not durable due to the lack of a frame. It is not recommended to place them in several tiers. Therefore, if you need a quality home for animals, it is better to use a frame option.

Making your own rabbit cage using the Mikhailov method

Quite an interesting design that helps awaken the instincts of rabbits, which contributes to the rapid growth of the population in one individual house. Let's try to figure out how to build a similar cage for rabbits.

Drawing up drawings and diagrams for a cell using the Mikhailov method

It makes no sense to pore over the drawings yourself, especially if you do not have specific experience in such work. It is much more convenient to find them on the Internet. The Homius editors have already done this for the convenience of our Dear Reader. You can see them in the pictures below.

Drawings of cages for rabbits using the Mikhailov method:

Work performed when assembling the stand and other parts of the rabbit cage

Carefully study the drawings and photos of finished houses - this will help you complete all the work correctly. The shaft located in the middle of the cage will serve to remove animal feces, so the inside should be lined with frost-resistant or bicrost. Experts do not recommend using roofing material - its rough surface will collect dirt, which is very difficult to clean. The dimensions of a do-it-yourself rabbit cage are chosen individually; there are no standards for the area of ​​the houses.

Special attention should be paid to the walking and nesting areas. Compartments for walking rabbits are equipped with drinking bowls and feeders. It is better to make the floor from slats (by analogy with the step-by-step instructions). The queen cell is equipped with a small entrance (like a hole), from which there is a small tunnel that goes down 9 cm. This creates a resemblance to the natural habitat and helps to awaken the instincts of rabbits, including the reproductive instinct. The mother liquor is thoroughly insulated. If the winters in the region are quite severe, it is allowed to equip a nesting compartment, which promotes the reproduction of rabbits even in the cold season.

Drinkers and feeders are made automatic. You can see what they look like in the pictures.

Automatic feeders and drinkers do not require constant monitoring:

The upper third tier is most often used as a jigging tier - a few mature rabbits that are able to live without a mother are placed in it. It is also equipped with drinking bowls and feeders. The roof is made pitched, with a pipe leading through it, which is necessary for additional ventilation of the compartments.

Helpful information! Such designs greatly facilitate the farmer’s work. If installed correctly, the owner is required to maintain no more than half an hour a week.

Buying cages for rabbits: which one is better to choose?

If you don’t have time to make your own cage or don’t have the desire to do it, you can purchase a ready-made structure. Its form will depend on the goals pursued by the owner. Provided that rabbits are kept “for the soul”, it makes sense to purchase a simple frame house. If you plan to breed eared animals with subsequent profit, preference should be given to cages constructed according to the Mikhailov or Zolotukhin method. Such houses will allow you to get a large offspring in a short time.

Rabbit cages

Summarize

A farmer who breeds rabbits cannot do without good cages to keep them. Of course, it is easier to purchase such structures, but their cost cannot be called low. This means that making a rabbit house with your own hands will be much more profitable. The main thing is to understand that a rabbit cage made with high quality and according to all the rules will contribute to the rapid reproduction and weight gain of long-eared pets. Although some farmers claim that for their normal maintenance, a hole dug with an excavator and covered with plexiglass or plywood is sufficient. It is possible that this is true, but only for one specific breed. The majority of rabbits need more comfortable living conditions.

For successful keeping and breeding of rabbits, it is very important to choose the right cage for them, because the well-being of the animals and their ability to reproduce directly depend on its structure and type of material. Good, warm and comfortable housing is the key to a pet’s good health and good weight gain. There are two options - buy a ready-made cage in a specialized store or make it yourself. It would seem that the first option is easier and simpler, but it is preferable to do it yourself, taking into account all the necessary dimensions, depending on the expected number of individuals and the breed of pets. Having decided to breed rabbits, it is important to decide on the place where their cage will be located.

First of all, you need to take care of protecting your pets from cold wind and sunlight in the summer. Ideally, it is better to make the roof removable, this will facilitate the process of disinfecting the cage. So, how to make cages for rabbits with your own hands: all dimensions and drawings are presented below.

Types of cages for keeping rabbits

The main types of cages, mainly used by rabbit breeders in practice, are presented in the list below:

• a cage with an enclosure for walking a rabbit;
• standard cells with and without queen cell;
• a cell built according to the method of I. N. Mikhailov;
• cell according to the method of N.I. Zolotukhin.

Each cell has a standard base - walls, floor, ceiling and frame, door. Let's take a closer look at cell types.

An example of a drawing of a two-section cage for rabbits can be seen in the photo below.

Regular cell (with or without queen cell)

A standard cage, usually on high legs, with a mesh floor and tray, with two compartments separated by a partition with the ability to move from compartment to compartment. They provide a nest for the female rabbit and a place for feeding. The entrance to the cage is closed with doors. The high legs of the structure allow maximum protection of animals from moisture and drafts; they are usually made about half a meter. The mesh floor will allow the waste products of the rabbits not to linger in the cage; with the help of a tray, everything can be easily removed and the animals will be clean. Such cells can be found very often; they require minimal costs and a small amount of materials. Often designs with a mesh floor are used when breeding, since the paws of this breed of animal are resistant to damage.

Cage with aviary for walking rabbits

It is an ordinary cage (discussed above) made of a wooden frame, often on legs, with an enclosure attached to such a cage for walking.
Considering the mobility of pets and their love for an active lifestyle, having a place to walk has an extremely positive effect on the health of rabbits and increases their reproductive qualities. During the summer months, it allows the animals to enjoy fresh grass and soak up the morning sun. It is necessary to take into account all the details so that pets cannot escape from the enclosure and cats or mice do not get into them.

Do-it-yourself cages for rabbits: drawings according to Zolotukhin

The main difference between such a cage and other designs is the following: it does not contain a queen cell for the rabbit. It is assumed that the best option would be if she chooses a suitable place for herself. The feeder and sippy cup are located above the front door. These cages do not have a tray or a mesh floor; instead, only the back side of the structure is covered with mesh.

A small metal mesh is used. Analyzing the behavior of rabbits, you can notice that they relieve themselves at the back of their homes. These cages are built using slate or planks. To make the frame and partitions, boards up to two centimeters thick are used. The floor and roof are made of slate; if this is not available, it is made of the same boards as the cage frame. Wooden surfaces are covered with thin sheet metal.

Let's look at the construction of such a cell step by step:

The first floor of the structure should be located at a distance of fifty centimeters from the ground to protect rabbits from moisture and cold. The cage frame itself is made using four two-meter beams; the finished width of the frame should be two meters, and the depth should be eighty centimeters. Thus, three floors are built.

1. The floor of each floor must be inclined at a slope of five centimeters towards the back of the cage to allow animal feces to drain off. Each floor is divided into two halves by wooden slats, the distance between them should be about thirty centimeters; in the future there will be a hay barn. The walls of the structure are made of wooden planks. Each floor is half covered with boards or slate, the resulting gap is closed with a fine mesh.
2. The back wall must be made of moisture-resistant material; polycarbonate is a good choice; it can withstand fairly high humidity without deteriorating or rotting. The grid of the upper floor ends and a polycarbonate sheet is attached to it at an angle.
3. It is convenient to make caged doors that are common to all floors; metal hooks are attached to the doors.
4. Additionally, each floor can be equipped with side doors for fattening; bolts must be attached to each door.

Considering that rabbits love to chew everything and are good at it, each inner corner is lined with metal for protection.

The roof of the cage is made in such a way that it protrudes forward from the common part of the frame by at least five centimeters on all sides, in order to prevent rainwater from entering the room with the pets.

Cages for rabbits using the Mikhailov method

Rabbit cages using the Mikhailov method are the most complex and expensive, but at the same time the most convenient to use. They provide for a unified system of rabbit waste, heating of the queen cell with baby rabbits and a female rabbit, separate shelves for animals and a ventilation system. Their main feature is their sectionality - they include from two to four separate sections with a single compartment for collecting rabbit waste.

The first cages of this type were designed for two adult animals, improved designs are designed for several teenage rabbits or two rabbits expecting offspring. There are two-tier and single-tier cages. The construction of a cage of this type is tied to the cardinal directions; for protection from cold winds, the back wall is made blank and placed to the north. Apart from the back, the other three are made of mesh material. The mechanism for heating the queen cell must be turned on, and ventilation of the premises is provided.

The floors of the cage using the Mikhailov method are made of slats laid diagonally. To simplify the design, such cells are conventionally divided into three parts:

• the upper one, consisting of one or two tiers;
• the lower part is a sealed part for collecting manure;
• stand-up

Thanks to the stand, the entire structure is fixed to the ground; without it, the cage can tip over. The total height of the legs is 140 cm; additional beams are installed at a distance of 40 cm from the ground for maximum strong fixation. Feeders and drinking bowls for rabbits are located inside the building, queen cells are in the center. To make such a design with your own hands, you must have the correct drawing with exact dimensions. The dimensions of the cage made using this method are relatively small; for two adult individuals, the total area of ​​the structure will be 1.4 square meters. The height of the building is 210 cm, the width of the sections is 80 cm, the height is 70 cm. The angle of inclination of the lower section is 45 degrees. The sippy cup in the cage can be installed in any size, depending on the size of the section in which the pet lives. Let's consider the principle of constructing such a cage for four adult rabbits. The animal feeder is 15 cm long, 12 cm wide, and 30 cm high.

So, in order to make this design with your own hands at home, you must have:

• bars;
• slats;
• boards;
• metal mesh;
• automatic drinking bowls for pets;
• queen cell heater;
• box for animal feces;
• staples;
• self-tapping screws;
• stapler;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• nails of different sizes and a hammer;
• sheet iron;
• material for protecting internal corners;
• slateruberoid.

Let's look at the construction of such a cage step by step. As an example for a detailed description of construction, let’s take a single-tier cage with three compartments. Having understood the principle of the method, it will not be difficult at all to complete the upper floors. We assemble the cage frame in accordance with the required dimensions and drawings.

1. We start building the frame from the frame, then we build the cage itself and lay the floor in it diagonally with slats. Separately, we prepare the doors for the cage and install them, not forgetting the latches.
2. We install automatic drinking bowls for animals inside the living quarters, and hang pre-prepared drinking bowls outside (also made in accordance with the dimensions of the drawings).
3. We separate the queen cell for the female rabbit and the young rabbits with a partition in which there is supposed to be an exit door. Do not forget that the queen cell should be as dark as possible for the comfort of newborn rabbits.
4. We make a roof, strengthen the slate with self-tapping screws.
5. We make a sloped surface for manure in the shape of a rectangular funnel. A container is installed under the funnel to collect waste and waste products of rabbits.

An important point in such cages is that little rabbits are not separated from their mother. They are constantly with her in a heated queen cell and have the opportunity to receive mother’s milk for as long as possible, which significantly increases the animals’ immunity.

Mikhailov's method is based, first of all, on the fact that rabbits do not have direct contact with humans; for them this is a very serious stress. The idea of ​​such an automatic house, where pets have round-the-clock access to a feeder and water bowl, has achieved incredible results. Rabbits living in such cages practically do not get sick, reproduce well and gain weight very quickly. There are even four-month-old individuals weighing up to six kilograms.

Video. DIY rabbit cage