Do-it-yourself stool from chipboard: necessary materials and equipment, marking, assembly. How to make a stool with your own hands from chipboard? Do-it-yourself chipboard chairs

And site guests. today I want to put on display another of my homemade products - a stool-pouffe with a soft seat and a place to store small things inside.

To make this item, we need old shelves from cabinets or a piece of thick plywood, at least one centimeter thick. of the tools you need:
drill and drill with a diameter of 6 mm
grinder with grinding disc
a circular saw
roulette
measuring corner
furniture bolts and a key for them
two small harness loops
glue gun, a few small nails with a wide head

Now let's start the process of assembling the stool.

step 1.
take the source material. in my case, these are shelves from old Soviet cabinets.

now we need to mark the blanks. in height, each part is 35 centimeters. Two parts, sidewalls, I made 30 centimeters wide. the other two are 27 centimeters.

we cut out. such blanks are obtained for a future stool

step 2.
now we mark on the side of the workpiece places for holes for fastening furniture bolts. we apply one sidewall to the edge of the other, mark the width with a marker and, in random order, make holes in any place convenient for you.

now that we have drilled the holes in the sidewall, which is 30 centimeters wide, we attach another sidewall, which is 27 centimeters wide. and mark with a pencil at its end the markings for drilling so that they coincide with the holes on the first sidewall.

drilling one hole in the end of the part 27 centimeters

we drill others.
step 3. for this, I no longer began to mark each hole, but simply, by tightening one furniture bolt and aligning all the edges of the part, I began to drill through the holes of the first part. much faster and more convenient.

fasten all the bolts. You will need three pieces for each side.

step 4. we carry out similar actions with all the details. as a result, we get a rectangle-the basis of our stool.

step 5. The next stage of work was cutting out the bottom and cover of the stool. I got two blanks with the dimensions indicated in the photo

the dimensions of the upper part, which will be the seat, are indicated in smaller sizes, since foam rubber will be attached to it, and if the dimensions are left as on the lower part (the bottom of the stool), then the lid will close very poorly.
step 6. then I took a grinder with a petal disc and sanded all the ends and sides of the rectangle.

Step 7. The next step is to attach the bottom part (bottom) to the rectangle. take 4 furniture bolts and screw. they will suffice. the item is held tight.
step 8. Now that our stool is assembled, we proceed to the most, in my opinion, dreary business. we need to sheathe it with fabric to give it a finished look. take a piece of fabric, whichever you like best. we grow it on a flat surface and lay a pouf on it.

Next, attach the fabric to the edge of the stool with a stapler.

we stretch the fabric around the entire perimeter of the part so that there are no wrinkles. when we approach the already stapled edge, we bend the fabric and also fasten it to the brackets.

since the wooden base is quite strong and the staples cannot always pierce it, we knock it out with a hammer.
step 9. after sheathing, unnecessary fabric remains at the ends. we cut it.

leave a few centimeters below and above so that you can bend and hide the ends.

we fasten the fabric at the ends of the stool with staples.

this is how it should look like. folded over and covers the corners.

step 10. take another piece of fabric, but more dense. we will attach it to the very bottom of the stool, covering part of the skin and open space.

fasten with staples, then knock them out with a hammer. it turns out like this:

we do the same with the upper part. we fix the fabric on the edges of the stool.

step 11. for the following steps we need 2 pieces of foam rubber and a glue gun.

put a smaller piece of foam rubber on the seat and glue it.

step 12. the remaining piece of foam rubber, larger in size, is fixed on top of the first one. we turn the corners and from the inside
attach the sides of the seat.

it turns out such a detail.

Perhaps the simplest and most affordable in the manufacture of home furniture for beginners is a do-it-yourself chipboard stool. Its production does not require any professional knowledge and skills, and the cost of materials is minimized. As for tools, if you are determined to make furniture, then sooner or later you will need to have them anyway.

Sheet chipboard is probably one of the most affordable materials available in almost every home. And if not, you can buy it in any furniture workshop, which will be able to sell the pieces left after the manufacture of cabinet furniture for almost nothing. In this article we will talk about how to make a stool from chipboard and what tools and additional materials you will need.

Sheet chipboard

Chairs can be made from this material, the design of which is quite simple and uncomplicated. Such stools can be used for kitchens, workshops and utility rooms. These chairs with a back are perfect for a children's room and coffee tables. They are not able to impress anyone with their stunning design, but they are quite reliable and practical in everyday life.

There are a lot of ideas on the net, their photos and videos are within a minute's reach for each user. Drawing on ideas, you can add something of your own to them, and as a result, get a completely new exclusive piece of furniture that is in no way inferior to its counterparts from the store.

Designer plywood chairs

List of necessary tools and materials

Let's start with the basic material that you will need in such quantity:

two sheets of chipboard measuring 400x300 mm for stool legs;
one sheet 300x300 mm for seating;
one sheet 200x120 mm for making a jumper.

If you decide to change the dimensions of the chair, this is not a problem. The main thing to consider is that the lower part of the support for the stool must be no less than the size of the seat, otherwise the chairs will stand unevenly and unstable on the floor surface.

Required tools:

ruler;
pencil;
screwdriver;
jigsaw;
Sander;
drill;
screwdriver;
scissors;
brush.

Additional materials:

glue for wooden surfaces;
edging tape for finishing the ends;
foam rubber;
upholstery fabric;
furniture plugs;

Plywood Tools

Stages of work on the manufacture and assembly of chair parts

Before making a stool from chipboard, we find in the network the optimal schemes and drawings, the dimensions of which correspond to the planned purpose of the stool.
In accordance with the photo, according to a pre-made drawing, we manufacture chair elements of the required dimensions:

legs - 2 pcs;
seat - 1 pc;
plate - 1 pc.

To do this, you must first draw sketches of all structural elements on the chipboard, and then cut them out with a jigsaw. When cutting out the seat, it is recommended to round the corners.

This step involves processing all the edges of the products with a grinder.
Construction assembly.

Make holes on the legs with which they will be connected to the jumpers. The same holes must be made on the last elements. Connect them together, after which the resulting structure is screwed to the seat.

If you are going to make a stool with a soft seat, then you should cut and glue foam rubber to it and cover it with upholstery fabric on top. Secure the upholstery with a furniture stapler or nails.

Finishing.

If used chipboard sheets with damage are used to make the stool, putty them. After the putty has dried, grind the places with a grinder, and then paint the product with paint.

A special edge must be glued to the ends of the product. Cut it based on the length of the end, adding 1 cm on each side. Then everything is done as follows: attach the edge to the edges and press with an iron. The heat will melt the adhesive and the edging tape will be firmly pressed.

The scheme of cutting the sidewall of the stool

The scheme of the overall dimensions of the stool

Chipboard stool

And here are the options for plywood chairs:

DIY chipboard chair 1

DIY chipboard chair 2

DIY chipboard chair 3

DIY chipboard chair 4

On this, the manufacture of a stool from chipboard with your own hands is over. Now you understand that there is nothing unusual in this and absolutely every home craftsman can make such comfortable and comfortable chairs from chipboard.

"Can you make a box? Yes? Okay, you'll make stools for now." This is from a conversation with a brand new job seeker in a small furniture company. Indeed, making a simple stool with your own hands is no more difficult than a box. That one can be more difficult if it is retractable in the nightstand. Therefore, it is better for those who are interested in carpentry to master it, starting with a stool. You won’t save much money on this, stools are inexpensive. But the acquired skills will allow you to take on large cabinet furniture, which will save you many times over, plus unique items in the interior.

A stool as a starting object in the furniture business has another advantage: it requires little planing and sawing work with the inevitable garbage, you can test your carpentry skills on the balcony or even in the kitchen. After making sure that the matter is going well, we will think about a carpentry workshop with a workbench and other things; Without it, you can no longer make furniture more impressive.

Device and something about terms

The classic wooden kitchen stool is arranged as shown in fig. It can also be seen that its construction is rather complicated for a beginner, but we will come to it through simpler samples, but no worse. In this case, the picture is needed for another.

The reader may think that to call the support beam a tsarga, and screeds / struts with prolegs are already purely furniture specifics, sort of like a bench for sailors - a can. As for the king, this is not so. Drawers can also be found in other branches of technology, and there they are by no means beams either in appearance or in the nature of the load.

In fact, the drawer is a structural element that distributes multidirectional loads among the components of the power circuit. When distributing the load, it is impossible not to experience it; make them work.

In the manufacture of furniture, the drawer is most often combined with a support beam in the form of a board or beam placed on the edge. This idea is so ingrained that some experienced carpenters consider any such board to be a tsarga. However, the kings and furniture are very diverse.

For example, at pos. 1 fig. (underside of a stool with legs in nests) tsargs are still quite tsargi-bearing beams, only from a bar. But already at pos. 2 tsargi - kerchiefs, and their frame does not hold anything and is only decorative; on pos. 3 kerchiefs can do without it. And on pos. 4 (dressing table) tsarga - jib, which is a beam no more than a scarf.

Table with removable legs, pos. 4, the case is generally interesting. When it is disassembled, the side will be a shaped steel brace, because. only in this case does it keep the underframe boards from breaking out of the tabletop when pushed, or simply from falling apart if the tabletop is also removed. But when the legs are in place, their heads are pressed into the corners and the table is standing, the underframe boards will become both beams and drawers, because. support both vertical and lateral loads. In this case, it is even legitimate to talk about attaching the legs to the sides (!), because. the product acquires proper strength and rigidity only when the mounting nodes of the legs are assembled and loaded.

Tsars from the board can also be vertical racks, and not beams. In this case, they are called combatant tsars, pos. 6. In general, you need to deal with drawers as with beams: first of all, look at how they work in the structure, and how they look is the second or fifth question. It was necessary to be distracted immediately by the kings, because. in furniture they are found all the time.

What do we do?

To make a stool, let's see what we can do. Not all, there is an endless variety of stools, but for starters, typical examples. Our task is to choose what is simpler and better for a specific purpose.

A classic kitchen stool can be both utilitarian and very artistic, pos. 1 and 2 in fig. Its design has developed over the centuries and such stools serve for many decades. The strength of the design allows you to use the stool as a work table, everyone knows this. You can take on a classic stool from the very beginning, having mastered several woodworking techniques, see below.

In lightweight stools, pos. 3-8, the legs are attached either without drawstrings at all, into sockets in a thick, durable seat, or into sockets in scarf drawstrings. In the first case, both the seat and the legs have to be thickened, so such stools are inferior to others in strength, often in appearance, pos. 3.

In order for the lightweight stool to be durable, its legs are tied with screeds: the lower, the stronger and the thinner the screeds can be, pos. 4 and 5. But the low frame of the couplers interferes with the legs of the seated person, and the cut into the thin legs of the stool weakens them. Therefore, instead of a simple frame, they often make an H-shaped one, pos. 6, or put couplers at different levels, pos. 7.

The greatest strength and convenience is provided by the X-shaped system of ties (tie cross), pos. 8. With a certain configuration of the legs, it is possible to do without the lower cross; one such example will be discussed below.

Important subtleties

If you ever undertake to make a lightweight stool, please note, firstly, that its legs should be slightly apart, i.e. the axes passing through the centers of the heads and heels of the legs should deviate from the vertical by 7-12 degrees outward relative to the axis of symmetry of the stool. The second option - the legs should be arched and expand upwards, see below. Without one or the other, the legs can break even with a slight swaying on a stool. Moreover, both solutions are valid if the stool is symmetrical about the vertical axis, i.e. not extended in plan. An exception, up to proportions of 1:1.5, is a stool with screeds at different levels, it can be pulled out in the direction of the lower screeds.

Second, in order to cut the heels and the heads of the legs to the required angle, their blanks must be assembled into a tightly tightened bag and cut in 1 pass. Otherwise, the stool will remain an oblique splay: it is still possible to adjust the vertical legs to the size along the length, but it is simply impossible to achieve the accuracy of the angles necessary for processing the legs one by one on a tree. The corners will already go half a degree-degree against the drawing, but this is not so important, as long as all the legs are the same.

Stools-pedestals, pos. 9 and 10 are heavy and material-intensive, but very durable, because consist, from the point of view of mechanics, of 3 tsargs located in mutually perpendicular planes. The same stools are easy to manufacture, and it is better to start mastering the furniture business from them. In such a case, in Fig. drawings of 2 types. At pos. on the right, the details of the pedestal also cut into half a tree, see below; the mortise slot is not conventionally shown. The seat in both cases can be of any centrally symmetrical shape; put it on dowels, see below. Covers on round pedestal stools make them visually indistinguishable from more labor-intensive poufs when padded as described below.

Note: in the inset at the bottom left of Fig. variant of a stool-cabinet for a summer residence. It needs 4 parts, but it does not get stuck in loose earth either.

Box-shaped, or shield, stools (pos. 11 and 12) require 4 parts, but are lighter and interfere with the legs less. Making them is no more difficult than the previous ones, and all the connections are doweled, which makes the job somewhat easier. Box-shaped stools can be stretched in length up to turning into benches, and their strength and stability depend very little on height. The well-known household stool (pos. 12) is from this breed. In general, shield stools are also a grateful object for a novice carpenter, so we also give drawings of several types for them: normal room height, on the right in the figure, household lower, on the left in the same place, and below - the device is a very small children's stool.

Note: in fig. on the right is a diagram of a reinforced box stool. Pos. c) there is a way to make it look more attractive by veneer sidewalls. This stool is well suited to the country: simple, light, inexpensive, looks good, and in terms of strength and convenience it is not inferior to the classic one.

Stools on pos. 13 and 14 only look like box-shaped ones, but in fact they have 4 wide and flat legs. Therefore, such stools must be made with drawers made of boards or beams, and the legs should be fastened with a proleg. True, in this case it is only one and can be located so that it does not interfere with the legs at all.

The next variety available for self-production by beginners is stools with X-shaped legs. To give them the necessary strength, either 2 drawers and 2 prongs are required, located mutually perpendicular, pos. 15, or 4 tsargi-beams forming the upper frame, and 1 coupler between the crosshairs of the legs. The latter option can be inscribed in the interior of the living room or bedroom, but most of all, the racks are made folding. Suddenly become interested - in fig. folding country stool, drawings and folding method. It is possible to assemble a country set from such a garden folding table. In fact, there are many designs of folding stools for different purposes, from a fishing rack to picnic furniture, and some of them are easy to make with your own hands.

Note: all the described stools are quite plastic and tolerant of the configuration of details, therefore their creative executions in different styles, poses are possible. 17-20.

Materials, tools, technology

What to do?

Wood is suitable for the manufacture of any stool. In terms of strength and durability, a wooden stool is second only to a forged metal one, and in terms of convenience and functionality it has no equal among its counterparts. Any quality wood will go on a stool, except for very soft and easily decaying species: poplar, willow, aspen, alder.

The quality of wood for any furniture is determined, firstly, by the absence of visible defects: cracks, falling knots, chips, wormholes, traces of rot and mold in the form of spots of a color unusual for this breed, see fig. Secondly, wood for furniture should be room-dry, with a moisture content of 8-12%. in the process of drying, a violation of its structure is possible and in the room furniture made of it may eventually crack or crack.

Note: The slanting and graininess of wood on furniture in piece handicraft production is in many cases acceptable, and sometimes desirable, because. allow you to get a beautiful texture. The famous Karelian birch is nothing more than an ordinary warty birch, completely curvy due to unfavorable growing conditions.

The tree is air-dry, with 12-20% humidity (this is an ordinary timber) must be kept in a dry room at a temperature of 15-30 degrees for 1-6 weeks, stacked on non-damp stands. The initial plots (boards, beams) are placed on stands at intervals, and the next belt (layer) of the pile is also placed on stands; now you can use the same plots as them, laying a couple across.

Note: it is impossible to dry the wood under the influence of heating devices or the light of incandescent lamps - we will get very poor chamber wood.

On the seat of the stool they usually take pine or spruce, and on the legs a harder tree: birch, oak, maple, beech. Of course, the entire stool can be made from hardwood. Of the fairly affordable imported breeds, wenge, hemlock, mahogany are suitable.

A full replacement for wild wood will be modified wood - MDF of medium and high density. MDF is not impregnated with anything, it is made from sawing waste of commercial wood pressed at an elevated temperature, i.e. The material is quite environmentally friendly. MDF is inferior to wild wood in terms of abrasion resistance, so it is advisable to stuff hardwood soles on the heels of MDF legs.

From plywood, you can make pedestal and box-shaped stools, as well as clothed stools with an X-shaped coupler of legs (pos. 8 in the figure at the beginning) and similar to them in terms of power circuit. Also, plywood will go on the seat of any stool. From chipboard, as a rule, only box-shaped stools are made entirely. in the designs of all the rest there are points of concentration of loads, which the chipboard does not hold. But chipboard will also go well on the seat.

Note: it is highly desirable to impregnate plywood for furniture with a water-polymer emulsion from both faces and from the end.

About glue

Most furniture joints are glued. Traditionally, bone carpentry glue is used for this. It is inexpensive, does not require drying to a tack before joining parts, and gains strength as soon as it hardens. But for its preparation, you need a glue maker, which, however, you can make yourself.

Very strong glue for wood "liquid nails". It also makes it possible to hide the adhesive seams, because. tinted under a tree with sawdust, or you can buy ready-made tinted. Water-based acrylic wood glue is even better.

Liquid nails and acrylic are quite expensive, so in many cases they are replaced with almost the same durable PVA, but not the usual office paper, but wood. The corresponding marking must be looked at on the label, and wood PVA is sold not in stationery, but in construction and hardware stores. It is necessary to glue parts on PVA only after exposure to tack; glue is applied to both connected parts. Exposure for strength gain - at least a day, only then you can continue to work or load the connection.

Note: all adhesive joints do not hold shear along the seam; they need to be reinforced in this direction in various ways; for some, see below.

What to do?

We will assume that since you are a workman, you have a simple measuring and marking and working tool, including chisels and chisels. It is also desirable to have a caliper with a depth gauge. But, in order to start making stools and furniture in general, you need to stock up on a couple more devices first.

Firstly, a thickness gauge (height gauge) for marking, see fig. It can be done with your own hands, using a pair of screws instead of a lever lock. If you wish, you can also swing at a home-made thicknessing machine, amateurs do.

Secondly, wooden panels for furniture are not assembled just like that, they will come out humpbacked and slitted. Shields need to be rallied, i.e. when assembling do not glue the boards, press the edges tightly against each other until the glue is completely dry and gains strength. See below for how shields rally, but for now you need to make adaptations for this: plaz or wyms. The basis in both cases is strong, even and seasoned boards of at least 150x50 for the plaza and 120x50 for the vime.

A very convenient plaz from a screw clamp and an emphasis with a dead point, pos. 1 in fig. If there are no components for it, then the simplest plaz, pos. 2. The boards in it are compressed with wedges, pos. 2a, alternately knocking out with a mallet, and roughly under the size of the shield they put a spacer from the same board as the base of the plaza.

Large shields, approximately longer than 50 cm, cannot be rallied on the plaza, because at the same time, its base bends itself. In addition, the removal of the edges of the boards beyond the plaza should not exceed 150 mm, i.e. on a plaza of 250 mm boards, you can rally a shield up to the same 50 cm wide. This is enough for a stool, but for the future it is better to get 3-4 wyms, pos. 3. The fastening of the end bosses-stops in all cases must be very strong, on M8-M12 through bolts with nuts, because very large forces act on the stops in work.

How to do?

To make a stool, you need to master, first of all, several types of connections of wooden parts:

Half-tree tie-in (half-tree).
Tongue-and-groove connection.
Spike-groove connection.

half a tree

Half-tree connection, shown in fig. Technologically, it is the simplest and quite reliable, if it is additionally fastened, 2-3 points per connection, with dowels, self-tapping screws, bolts, nails and, optionally, glued. When working with a hand tool, the recesses are first filed along the edges, not reaching 0.5-1 mm to the desired depth, and an excess array of material is selected with a chisel. To make cuts deeper, so that later with one blow to knock down the excess - a manufacturing defect!

Half-tree connections are closed, pos. 1, so the crosses are assembled, open, pos. 2, for assembling corners, and deaf (closed) half, pos. 3, for tapping on the run. In addition, half a tree can be connected both by layer, pos. 1-3, and along the edge, pos. 4. In the latter case, if the parts are high enough, the connection holds well and only on glue without additional reinforcements; this is how the supports of pedestal stools are assembled.

Tongue and groove

For tongue-and-groove joints, pos. 1-3 in the figure, the 1st point of additional fastening or just gluing is enough. The tongue-and-groove connection can be open single, pos. 1, open double, pos. 2, triple, etc., or closed, pos. 3. The latter can be separated only by pulling the part with the comb, and the open tongue-and-groove joints can also be turned by turning the parts relative to each other, i.e. a closed tongue-and-groove comb is technologically more complicated (a hole must be drilled along the edges with a drilling depth limiter and then carefully gouged), but stronger and more reliable.

The tongue-and-groove and tongue-and-groove connections are mechanically similar, so they are often confused. For example, connections on pos. 1 and 2 in the old Soviet textbooks for vocational schools are called tenon-groove. But in fact, the shoulder of the spike, unlike the shoulder of the crest, bypasses the spike from all sides, pos. 4. This makes it possible to hide the semicircular edges of the hole selected by the end mill, and makes the connection resistant to breaking out in 2 planes, along and across.

The spike, as well as the closed tongue-and-groove comb, can be wedged when assembled with a hardwood wedge, also pos. 4. The connection becomes one-piece, but very strong and no visible additional fasteners are required, glue will last forever. The connection on a wedged spike is generally “dead”, it is easier to smash the entire product to smithereens than to separate it.

Note: joints on spikes in furniture, many types are used; For example, a small part of them is shown in Fig. on right. We will get acquainted with the necessary ones along the way when describing the corresponding types of furniture.

Dowels

Dowel connection is the main thing in carpentry, because. it is strong enough and invisible; completely closed. Actually, a dowel is a round or octagonal spike made of hard wood, made separately from the parts to be joined. How the connection is made with dowels is shown in Fig., here you can’t do without a thickness gauge for marking.

Dowels can be wedged during assembly, see fig. on the right, then they are called pins; wedges must be placed across the wood fibers of the parts to be joined. The dowel connection is one-piece, but very strong and reliable. The joints on the dowels are usually glued.

The attentive reader probably already had a question: where to get them, these dowels? Random twigs-slivers will not be reliable. True, dowel sticks are commercially available, but you can also make them yourself. In general, the main dowel connection in furniture has a lot of other subtleties, so we give a selection of videos:

Video: connection on dowels

Video: making round sticks for dowels and arrows

Video: do-it-yourself dowel making tool

Video: homemade jig for drilling holes for dowels

Rallying

Boards in furniture panels are rallied in different ways. On a tongue (a type of tongue-and-groove connection), pos. 1 in the figure, it is easiest to rally if you use tongue-and-groove boards. Due to the large contact area of the surfaces to be joined, adhesive tongues are very reliable and often used. However, only boards of sufficient thickness can be rallied to the sheet pile, because. the crest of the tongue should, on the one hand, be no wider than 1/4-1/3 of the thickness of the board, and on the other hand, it should not be narrower than 10-12 mm. It is believed that the minimum thickness of boards from a wild array for rallying on a sheet pile is 30 mm, but it is not recommended to rally boards less than 40 mm on a sheet pile; the dimensions of the tongue for the magpie board are shown in fig. higher. Boards made of MDF and laminate can be stacked on a tongue with a board thickness of 16 mm or more.

Rallying in the rebate, pos. 2, it is safe only if the fold is with a lock. A lockless fold is just a quarter, and a shield made of quarter boards will not be reliable, just like a shield rallied into a rail, i.e. just the ends of edged boards. It is difficult to make a lock seam at home, therefore, like a lock tongue-and-groove, they are rallying shields made of MDF or laminate, see fig. on right. In this case, the thickness of the boards can be from 12 mm.

Rallying on dowels, pos. 3, possibly solid boards from 20 mm and MDF / laminate from 12 mm, but laborious and difficult. It is best to rally thin boards into a smooth fugue, pos. 4. The grooves for the fugue will have to be selected with a manual wood router with a disk cutter, but the fugue itself can be made from plywood from 3 mm, which makes it possible to rally "wild" boards from 12 mm.

About the seat

Sitting on a hard stool for a long time is uncomfortable, so something softer will fit here. How the soft seat of the stool is arranged is shown in pos. 1 fig. It should be noted right away that it is better to make the outer upholstery from burlap, and sew capes for stools from decorative furniture fabric. The stool is used intensively, often casually, and expensive jacquard, etc. it will soon get oily. And the cape can be washed, and sewing it is much easier than a cover for a chair or armchair.

The inner skin is put on glue with a wing inversion from 60 mm, pos. 2. Glue is applied only to the base and the wings are applied, drying it to a tack. Foam rubber is chosen “on a snap”: compressed to the limit with fingers and suddenly released, it should straighten up sharply, and not pull up smoothly.

The outer skin is also placed on glue, with an overlap of the inner wings by at least 30-40 mm. Its edges, so as not to creep, are pulled together with harsh threads up and down, and the threads, so as not to be accidentally torn, are sealed with thick paper, thin cardboard or just tape. Upholstery nails, if necessary, imitate pushpins, pos. 3. The seat is attached to the base when it is completely ready.

The wicker seat pos. 4, but it requires a reliable frame, like a classic stool. Lightweight stools and stools without a tightly attached seat are not strong enough. Modifying cabinets and box stools by replacing the top board with a frame is not worth it for the same reason.

Note: dimensions of ordinary, not for a bar, stools 420-450 mm in height; the seat is from 350x350 to 400x400 mm square and 300-450 mm in diameter is round.

Examples and Samples

The most reliable and functional is, as we see, still a classic stool; no wonder she got into the classics. Therefore, we give her drawings, see fig. Pos. A - general view and device; B - seat mounting method; B - detailing; G - scheme for rallying the seat on the dowels; D - base assembly; E - checking for evenness by measuring pairs.

However, the established canons do not exclude evolution up to revolutionary changes. Revolutions are generally not needed for society because they are ruinous, but in technology they are almost always fruitful. An example is a lightweight kitchen stool based on a classic one, see next. rice. The use of plywood (top trim), laminate for the seat and, most importantly, the removal of the drawer side outside the load-bearing belt, gave rise to a very simple, light, cheap and comfortable design - there are no prolegs. And in terms of strength, it will not yield to the classics, only a wicker seat cannot be made.

And, finally, a variant of the base of a lightweight stool without prolegs. Assembly method see fig. Material - wood or plywood. The seat can be anything. Thanks to the correctly chosen configuration of the legs, the stool is quite reliable, and in appearance, especially with a soft seat, it will go into any living room.

Finally

Making furniture with your own hands is not only economical, but also exciting. And therefore - in a good hour! From a simple stool to such a closet or bed that the grated designer will gasp in admiration.

It is generally accepted that a real man should know how to make a stool with his own hands. After all, elementary things are often called simple, like a stool. However, in practice, not every representative of the stronger sex, if he is not a cabinetmaker by profession, will be able to independently make this element of kitchen furniture without prompting so that it has a modern design, is not shaky, but strong and of high quality.

Sketches of chairs and stools made of plywood.

In this case, it would be rational to use someone else's professional experience and win in three directions at once:

furnish the kitchen with the necessary items;
save money by doing all the work yourself, without ordering a cut on the side and using improvised material for a stool from dried coniferous or hardwood waste, plywood sheets, chipboard scraps or old chipboard furniture;
get pleasant emotions, giving your image masculinity in the eyes of the environment and feeling like a jack of all trades.

Those who assemble for the first time in their lives with their own hands, but still have primary experience with wood and working tools, will be quite capable of coping with the manufacture of simple kitchen structures.

Simple, but very nice plywood and chipboard options, the descriptions of which are presented below, guarantee an easy, fast and high-quality result.

Plywood chair

As a starting material, you can take a sheet of birch plywood of a standard size 1520x1520 mm with a thickness of 2 cm. From such a sheet you will get as many as 3 products, practically a set, provided that the dimensions of each of them are as follows:

Figure 1. Scheme of the side of the chair.

stool cover - 400x400;
stool side (2 pcs.) - 400x310;
strips 270x120 - 2 pcs.

Before starting work, make sure that you have at hand:

pencil, ruler, if any - a right construction angle;
electric jigsaw, equipped with small-toothed wood files;
drill driver with wood drills 5 mm and 8 mm and bits with the indispensable presence of a hexagon;
sandpaper: large No. 100-120 and small No. 300-320, it is desirable to have a grinding machine for it;
brushes for toning and varnishing the stool;
for fasteners: confirmations, self-tapping screws 4x16 mm and furniture metal corners.

Having prepared all the necessary tools, they begin to create drawings of the elements of the future stool. You can make them by hand with a pencil and a ruler, but it is necessary to check the symmetry and right angles so that the future product does not skew during assembly.

Back to index

Product manufacturing

Figure 2. Diagram of the stool cover. Billet 400x400 mm.

For the sidewall, a drawing is applied (Fig. 1) on one side of the sheet and its contours are cut out with a jigsaw. Then the finished cut is applied along the axial vertical to the other side and, following its outlines, the second cut is outlined. The rest of the sides are drawn according to the finished part, so that they turn out to be absolutely identical. They do the same with drawing a drawing of the top cover (Fig. 2), only the axis of symmetry here will be diagonal. You can draw radii without a pattern or compass, since the lid from a large family pot with a capacity of 5 liters does an excellent job with this task.

It is very important, when sawing parts according to the drawings, to observe the straightness of the corners and the accuracy of dimensions up to half a millimeter, otherwise instead of a high-quality stool it will turn out to be crooked and wobbly.

Figure 3. Stool assembly diagram.
The cover is fastened to the sides with the help of furniture corners, fixed with self-tapping screws.

Before assembling the stool with your own hands, you need to process all the details, however, the chamfer on the workpieces cannot be removed to avoid chipping. First, sharp edges are rounded off with coarse sandpaper, the ends are varnished and then polished with a fine abrasive. This procedure is repeated 2-3 times to achieve perfect smoothness of the ends. The tinting of the stool, if there is such a desire, is also carried out while it is disassembled, so that no whitish marks remain at the joints.

Next, proceed to the assembly process (Fig. 3). The sides are pulled together with confirmations, for which holes of 8 mm in diameter are drilled in the plane, and 5 mm in diameter at the end. The cover is fastened with furniture corners fixed with self-tapping screws.

At the final stage, another varnish coating is performed. Only after it has completely dried, the stool will be completely ready for use and protected from the negative effects of moisture.

Back to index

Chipboard stool

Those who are interested in how to make a stool from chipboard can be guided by the following tips. For one product you will need several pieces of chipboard:

for legs - a sheet measuring 40x30 cm² (2 copies);
for the cover - a sheet of 30x30 cm;
for a jumper - a sheet measuring 20x12 cm.

If chipboard sheets that are already in use and have minor defects are used, all defects should be covered with putty on wood and painted over with paint.

Figure 4. Scheme of a chipboard stool.

The list of tools is no different from the above set for making a plywood stool, as well as fasteners (4 confirmations 6.4x50 mm, 4 self-tapping screws, 4 plastic corners). The only difference is that it is advisable to buy furniture thrust pads (rectangular or round) and you can also add a tight-fitting piece of fabric 41x41 cm with a layer of foam rubber on glue (for example, such as "Moment") for the softness of the seat.

According to the presented drawings (Fig. 4), on the sheets of chipboard, first, the contours of the legs, jumpers and covers are applied with a pencil, and then all the details are cut out with an electric jigsaw at maximum speed. In this case, all corners on the lid must be rounded.

Now it remains only to collect the received elements of the stool. To do this, noting 3.5 cm from the edge of the leg, plastic corners are fixed with self-tapping screws. 2 holes are also drilled on the leg for installing a jumper, referring to the dimensions according to the drawing. Then the jumper is applied to the leg, holes are drilled in it for self-tapping screws, and the jumper is screwed to the leg of the stool using confirmations. All the above steps are repeated with the second leg. At the same time, make sure that the distances from the bottom of the leg to the jumper exactly match on both parts, otherwise the stool will warp.

The assembled structure of racks and jumpers is screwed to the lid. If a soft seat is supposed, then foam rubber is glued to the cover before assembly, the seat is covered with a cloth, which is fixed from below with a construction stapler. In order to cover the fabric edges, a sheet of fiberboard 29x29 cm is stuffed from the bottom of the seat.

In the manufacture of a stool made from new sheets of chipboard, one should not forget about the processing of the ends with a paper edge of the corresponding color. To do this, the edge, 2 cm longer than the length of the butt, is applied to it, ironed with an iron, heating the adhesive base, cut off all excess with a sharp shoe knife, and finally pass along the edges of the edge with fine sandpaper.

At the final stage of assembly, the thrust bearings are nailed with small nails so that the legs of the stool do not scratch the floor. Now the assembly of the chipboard stool can be considered complete.

When purchasing furniture, you can notice a clear discrepancy between the prices of materials for their manufacture and the final price of the product. This is especially striking when buying fairly simple pieces of furniture, such as stools.

Stools are most often made from chipboard.

Stools are most often made from chipboard. It is a fairly cheap material, easy to work with, durable and great for indoor use. Looking once at a chipboard stool, it is easy to understand that it is quite easy to make it with your own hands. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the detailed instructions for the manufacture of various configurations of stools at home.

Looking once at a chipboard stool, it is easy to understand that it is quite easy to make it with your own hands.

You can make a stool with your own hands, having at hand professional and non-professional elements and devices.

Required tools include:

electric jigsaw, complete with a small file;
screwdriver

To decorate the stool seat, you can also prepare foam rubber and upholstery.

You may also need a drill with a drill and a stapler for construction purposes.

The upholstery can be fabric, oilcloth, leatherette.

To simplify the assembly task, you can first glue the parts, and only then fix them with self-tapping screws.

Materials for manufacturing:

chipboard sheets, new, substandard or remaining spare parts from old furniture;
self-tapping screws, no longer than the thickness of the chipboard;
confirmations 4 pieces. Size 6.4 mm by 50 mm;
metal corners 4 pieces;
adhesive tape for processing the edges of sheets;
thrust bearings of any acceptable materials;
sandpaper for sanding.

Creating a stool from chipboard with your own hands allows the master not to limit himself to standard models.

Non-professional tools that can be found in any home:

pencil or marker;
cardboard for making templates;
ruler or tape measure;
a knife of any configuration, the main thing is sharp.

It would seem that the simple design of the stool has several dozen different models.

Parts of the stool are assembled using confirmations and self-tapping screws.

To decorate the stool seat, you can also prepare foam rubber and upholstery. The upholstery can be fabric, oilcloth, leatherette.

Illustrative examples can be found in furniture stores, from neighbors or on the Internet.

Create a project

Creating a stool from chipboard with your own hands allows the master not to limit himself to standard models. It would seem that the simple design of the stool has several dozen different models. Illustrative examples can be found in furniture stores, from neighbors or on the Internet.

Usually, several pieces of stools are needed at once, so it is extremely important to choose one shape you like and make identical items according to the selected drawing.

When starting the final assembly of parts, it is necessary to pre-treat all cut edges with a special tape.

Usually, several pieces of stools are needed at once, so it is extremely important to choose one shape you like and make identical items according to the selected drawing. When making a drawing, it is important to remember that the design of a stool requires a clear balance between its lower and upper parts. A discrepancy between the size of the seat and the width of the legs can lead to an imbalance, as a result of which the object will be very unstable, and therefore traumatic.

When making a drawing, it is important to remember that the design of a stool requires a clear balance between its lower and upper parts.

Choosing a material for manufacturing

Stools can be made from different materials. Chipboard, multi-layer plywood, wooden blocks and boards are suitable. The cheapest and most unpretentious material to work with is chipboard. Sheets can be purchased at the store, at furniture factories, or you can buy trimmings from small firms that make furniture to order. Sheets of old chipboard, which were previously parts of other furniture, are also suitable.

A discrepancy between the size of the seat and the width of the legs can lead to an imbalance, as a result of which the object will be very unstable, and therefore traumatic.

The final touch in preparation before assembly will be drilling the necessary holes.

We apply graphic markup

Stools can be made from different materials.

Having decided on the model of the future stool, it is necessary to mark out a chipboard sheet, thereby preparing it for further work. If you plan to make several identical stools, then it is better to make a pattern for all parts of the furniture. The template is conveniently made from thick cardboard.

For further ease of use of the manufactured furniture, the corners of the parts should be rounded. It is better to make even roundings with a compass. The absence of this item can be compensated, for example, with a plate of a suitable diameter.

The cheapest and most unpretentious material to work with is chipboard.

High speed will ensure cutting of sheets without chips and notches.
After trimming, it is necessary to clean all the edges of the stool with sandpaper.

Depending on the selected shape and model, the dimensions of the elements may be as follows.

No. Stool model Seat dimensions Legs dimensions Crossbar dimensions

1 30x30 30x40 20x12
2 30x40 30x40 30x15
(3 pieces)
3 40x40 20x35 (8 pieces) 30x20
(4 pieces)

Sheets of old chipboard, which were previously parts of other furniture, are also suitable.

Cut out elements for the future stool

The main thing is to determine in advance the number of pieces of finished products, and calculate the required volumes of materials.

Cutting elements from existing pieces of chipboard is done using an electric jigsaw.

Cutting elements from existing pieces of chipboard is done using an electric jigsaw. You can make a good cut of the edge with a small file and a high speed jigsaw. High speed will ensure cutting of sheets without chips and notches.

After trimming, it is necessary to clean all the edges of the stool with sandpaper. Such processing will ensure a good fit of one part to another and simplify assembly.

The final touch in preparation before assembly will be drilling the necessary holes. Make sure that the holes are drilled at the same level.

Having decided on the model of the future stool, it is necessary to mark out a chipboard sheet, thereby preparing it for further work.

We collect a stool

When starting the final assembly of parts, it is necessary to pre-treat all cut edges with a special tape. The tape must be chosen to match the color of the sheet or vice versa in contrasting shades.

The tape is applied to the cut of the legs and the seat and glued with a hot iron. The iron must be applied with quick and short movements. The warm tape should be pressed down with a clean cloth. The glue, which is on the back of the tape, sets very quickly and does not require long warm-up or cool-down.

Parts of the stool are assembled using confirmations and self-tapping screws. To simplify the assembly task, you can first glue the parts, and only then fix them with self-tapping screws.

The seat of the resulting chair can be made soft due to foam rubber and upholstery.