How to propagate onion. Methods for growing onions. Planting material preparation

It is added to salads, various dishes and eaten just like that with bread. There are many varieties of this plant, and in this article we will consider such an unusual species as a multi-tiered onion.

Description of the bow

The name of this plant corresponds to its unusual appearance. Instead of the inflorescences that we are used to seeing in ordinary ones, air bulbs are formed, located on the tubular arrow in the form of "nests", and basal bulbs. These onions are also sometimes called bulbs, they are covered with a strong peel on top. The plant forms links of arrows with bulbs, which are located in the form of levels one above the other. The length of the first arrow reaches 65-80 cm, the largest bulbs are located on it. There can be from 4 to 5 such levels. From three to ten heads grow in one inflorescence. The leaves are pleasant to the taste and very juicy, they retain this property for a long time. Air and basal bulbs have a more bitter taste, but they are also eaten, added to various dishes, pickled, and so on.

Peculiarities

A multi-tiered bow has good fertility, due to the fact that new arrows with bulbs grow from the center of the inflorescence, and this continues several times. The peel of the bulbs is yellow, brown or purple. It ripens faster than all others and produces greenery from March to November. It has a more developed root system when compared with an ordinary onion.

Did you know? It's no secret that everyone starts crying when cutting onions. But rarely anyone wondered why this happens. It turns out that it contains such a substance as a lachrymator. When cutting onions, this substance is released, dissolves on the shell of the eye, and because of this, sulfuric acid is formed, which causes irritation, and then tears.

Sometimes you can see small flowers on the arrows, but usually they dry out pretty quickly due to the fact that they do not have enough food. Growing a multi-tiered onion does not require special care, and in addition, it has good resistance to harmful microflora and various. In addition, it is a drought-resistant and frost-resistant plant. He does not care about frosts at -50 ° C without a lot of snow.

Landing technology

The planting material of a multi-tiered onion is its air and underground bulbs. It is best to plant basal or air bulbs from the first and second tiers. The best time for planting them is August and September. They have time to take root well by the first frosts and immediately after the snow melts they will delight with a harvest of juicy greenery. Also bulbs are possible. To do this, they need to be stored without separating in a cool, dry place and planted in seed boxes to a depth of about two centimeters from October to February. So you provide yourself with fresh herbs and vitamins for the time of cold weather.

As for the beds, the multi-tiered view prefers light, moisture and breathable with the environment. A multi-tiered onion is grown both as a plant. It should be good before planting so that you are sure of a good harvest. For an annual, apply (20-30 g), (50 g) and (30 g) fertilizers to the soil. And for a perennial, add more manure or humus to the soil about 5-7 kg per square meter. It is necessary to plant the bulbs in grooves previously made and watered with water at a distance of 15-20 cm and at a depth of 3-4 cm. It is also recommended to distribute the bulbs by size and plant each group in a separate row. After a good plant, so that it quickly gives roots.

Care

Caring for a multi-tiered bow consists of a standard set of actions. Like any plant, it needs moderate loosening and weeding of the soil, as well as the removal of dry leaves during growth. As soon as the arrows appear, they must be fixed on pegs so that they do not fall to the ground due to the gravity of the air bulbs.

How multi-tiered onions propagate

Multi-tiered onions can only be propagated. This type of onion does not have seeds. For reproduction, the largest air bulbs are chosen, which are usually located on the first tier. In addition, it can be propagated by dividing the bush. To do this, the plant needs to be dug up, the underground bulbs divided and transplanted to another place. The scheme for planting underground bulbs is no different from air bulbs.

Shallot(Allium ascalonicum) refers to the species Onion (Allium sulphur), which also includes the groups Onion and Onion multi-tiered. In terms of characteristics, shallots are very similar to ordinary onions, but they have some differences with them.

Shallots are nesting, or multi-germ, onions. When planting from one mother shallot, several daughter bulbs are formed with a diameter of up to 3-4 cm and a mass of not more than 50 g each. Depending on the variety, shallots are oval, rounded, rounded-flat handicap. They are attached to the heel (bottom) of the mother bulb, so they often have an irregular shape and are pointed at the point of attachment. Shallots usually form 6 to 12 bulbs in a nest. In some varieties of folk selection, their number reaches 25 and even 40 pieces, which is why shallots are sometimes called "magpie". In different varieties of shallots, the color of dry scales can be light yellow, white, brown, pink and purple. Juicy shallot scales are mostly white, greenish or pale purple in color. One mother bulb forms a whole bunch of juicy and fragrant dark green leaves, but they are lower in height than that of onions, about 30 cm. They are narrower, subulate, with a slight wax coating. Depending on the purpose, shallots are grown for greens or for turnip production. Both methods have their advantages.

On the top photo: This is what the beds with shallots (top photo) and onions look like when planted at the same time.

Growing shallots on a green feather.

Shallots are often grown for their green feathers. Shallot leaves practically do not shoot, and in the process of growing they do not coarsen over time and retain their taste and nutritional properties. With a small consumption of planting material of shallots, a green crop is obtained, several times greater than the yield of onions. Shallot is the most cost-effective onion for greens.

Shallot leaves are cut at a height of 20-25 cm, usually a month after planting. Such precocity is another advantage of shallots over onions. Shallot wins over onions in its cold resistance and frost resistance, which allows it to be planted already in late April - early May or before winter in mid-October. Therefore, you can get the vitamin production of its leaves much earlier.

For greens, shallots are grown not only in the open field, but also in containers, on the balcony, in greenhouses, on the windowsill of the apartment. Since shallots have a very deep dormant period, they are planted in the apartment no earlier than the end of February, then after a month you can cut the first greens. Sometimes they practice reusing the same bulbs for forcing greens. After cutting the first crop, the bulbs are taken out of the ground, cut below the middle and planted again in the same container, adding fresh earth. Re-planted bulbs produce a second crop of green leaves.

Growing shallots on a turnip has its advantages. In addition to an earlier harvest, shallots usually ripen 2-2.5 months after planting, and onions only after 3-3.5 months, shallot bulbs are better preserved in winter, up to 7 months even in a city apartment. They are denser, and their small size is sometimes preferable to use. We talked about the dietary and medicinal virtues of shallot bulbs previously.

As for the yield of shallots, this cannot be said unambiguously. Under the same growing conditions as onions, its yield is lower. However, on fertile soil, for example, when grown on compost beds, shallots show a very high yield and are ahead of onions: from 1 sq. m you can get up to 5 kg of greenery or up to 4 kg of bulbs, and this is a 300% increase in relation to the planted material.

Pictured: shallot and onion turnips during harvest.

impact on productivity and Bulb storage methods. With a warm storage method (temperature above + 18 ° C), shallots form larger bulbs and more green mass. The regrowth of leaves in this case and the ripening of the bulbs occurs later than with a cold storage method (0- +5 ° C). In addition, with a cold storage method, shallots shoot more often. For harvesting, this is undoubtedly a big minus, but it makes it possible to obtain such rare shallot seeds.

Growing shallots is not burdensome and is similar to onion farming. Shalot prefers a sunny location, moderately moist loose and very fertile soils with a pH of 6.0-6.5. When growing, crop rotation is observed, shallots are planted in the old place no earlier than after 3 years. The best place for planting shallots will be beds freed from peas, beans and beans. It is good to plant shallots next to carrots. These vegetables are mutually beneficial to each other. The smell of each of them repels the pest of the neighboring plant: a carrot or onion fly. They practice spring and winter (autumn) planting of shallots.

At spring planting shallots are planted in late April - early May. The soil for shallots is prepared in the fall: they dig up and add humus or compost (5 kg per sq. M), mineral fertilizers (70 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate) or ash. In autumn, beds are formed for planting. In early spring, the beds are loosened and 25 g of nitrogen fertilizers are applied per 1 sq.m.

Before planting, the bulbs are kept in a solution of potassium permanganate for 15-30 minutes or another fungicide. So that the onion does not shoot and gives an earlier harvest, it is covered with lutrasil. When greenery appears, the shelter is removed, otherwise the onion leaves will grow deformed. If shallots were stored in a cold way, before planting, their bulbs are kept at a temperature of about +40 ° C for a week.

A shallot bulb with a diameter of 3 cm and a mass of 30 g is considered the best for planting. Such bulbs form more daughter bulbs and branch better. Smaller bulbs are less productive. They are often used for harvesting late greens or winter sowing. From bulbs with a diameter of more than 3 cm, multiple small bulbs are formed, which is also not advisable.

When landing on 1 sq. m place 30 bulbs of optimal size. They are placed on the bed in rows at a distance of 10 cm from each other and a distance between rows of 30 cm. Shallots are planted in moist soil, if necessary, the grooves are shed. Bulbs are deepened by 10 cm, or 3 cm are left between the soil surface and the bulb. If you plant shallots shallowly, the bulbs that form in the nest will bulge to the surface of the soil. Too deep planting delays the development and reduces the yield of onions. After planting, the bed with onions is mulched with peat or humus. Sometimes, to obtain early greens, the bulbs are cut off at the shoulders. In this case, the yield of greens and turnips is reduced.

During winter landing shallots are planted in mid-October in such a way that it takes root, but does not begin to grow. Such plants overwinter better. After planting the onion, the beds are mulched with peat. Although shallots are highly cold-resistant and frost-resistant, in winter they can withstand temperatures down to -20 ° C and after freezing retain their vitality, its winter planting is more suitable for the southern regions of the country. In the middle lane, shallots lose up to 50% of planted bulbs. Small bulbs are more winter-hardy, but their yield is lower than that of large bulbs. At the same time, overwintered bulbs produce more leaves than bulbs planted in spring. Shallot planted before winter appears immediately after the snow melts and gives the earliest greenery.

Care for shallots is weeding, loosening the soil, watering. Watering is especially important at the beginning of the onion growing season. Stop watering a month before harvest.

If the soil is infertile, after the growth of the leaves, the shallots are fed with nitrogen fertilizers: slurry or urea, and at the beginning of the formation of the bulbs - potash fertilizers or ash.

To make the shallot turnip larger, in early July, some of the small bulbs are removed from the nest, leaving 5 or 6 bulbs in it. To do this, the earth is carefully raked from the bulbs, small bulbs are torn off along with the feather. They are used for food or frozen.

Diseases and pests. In wet and cold weather, shallots can be affected by downy mildew and neck rot. In this case, the affected plants are removed, the remaining ones are treated with antifungal drugs. After processing, greens are not eaten. From the onion fly, dusting the beds with ashes helps. When worms appear in the leaves, the beds are shed with a solution of sodium chloride (1 cup per 10 liters of water).

housekeeping shallot bulbs are carried out at the end of July, when their physiological maturity comes. This can be recognized by the wringing of the feather of the onion and the appearance of dry scales. If you slow down with harvesting, the shallot nest will disintegrate into individual bulbs, which will begin to sprout again. The dug nests of shallots are divided into bulbs and dried in the cool sun or in the attic, in the barn, under a canopy. Roots and leaves are cut off from dried bulbs, after which they are placed in storage.

Store shallots in a cool dry place. It is good to use small mesh bags for storage. Since shallots are well preserved in an apartment, they are often braided and hung in the kitchen: beautiful and convenient. Bulbs are periodically inspected and decaying ones are removed. In countries where shallots have been cultivated for a long time, it is customary to freeze them. Fresh shallots are cleaned, cut, lightly moistened and placed in containers. Store such onions in the freezer of the refrigerator. Do the same with shallots. Frozen shallot retains its properties, has no loss during storage.

Reproduction of shallots.

Shallots are propagated mainly vegetatively (bulbs). They are stored for planting after harvesting and drying the onions. With vegetative propagation, onion ripening occurs earlier than with seed, and the yield of such onions is higher. However, with long-term cultivation, more than 3-5 years, shallots lose their varietal qualities, accumulate diseases and reduce yields. In this case, they resort to seed propagation of onions or purchase new planting material in specialized stores. You can also buy shallot seeds there.

It can be quite difficult to get shallot seeds on your own; shallots are characterized by weak shooting and flowering. Its seeds do not have time to ripen, and ripened ones have a low growth force and germinate poorly. More often, specialists are engaged in seed propagation of shallots.

For this, the best bulbs are selected, which are stored for at least 4 months at a temperature of +4 ° C - +12 ° C. After such vernalization, onion blossoms. Since shallots are successfully cross-pollinated with onions, they are grown in isolation to obtain seeds.

In the first year, a bulb is formed from the seeds, resembling the structure of garlic and consisting of five small onions. After drying, it breaks up into small bulbs, which are planted the next year. In the second year of growing shallots, the bulbs form a larger nest with more bulbs. After that, shallots are propagated vegetatively for 3-5 years.

Unlike shallots, the family (nested) onion shoots well, forms seeds and propagates by them. This is the main difference between nested onions and shallots.

A few years ago, even the most experienced gardeners looked at this plant with amazement. The tiered bow really looks a bit odd. On its high arrow in several "floors" there are air "fruits". And there is a pattern: the higher the tiers, the smaller they become. It is for this that this vegetable crop has earned its original name. However, it also has other names: “Egyptian”, “viviparous”, “horned”, etc. But it is known to many gardeners precisely as a multi-tiered onion. Planting and caring for it do not require special knowledge or skills, so it can become an ornament to any garden.

A bit of history

The first information about the onion form, similar in its morphological features to this plant, is in the ancient Chinese herbalist of the fourteenth century. It was called "lau-chi-tsun". The Chinese called it a grass that does not form seeds and grows in floors.

Biologists believe that the multi-tiered onion, the cultivation of which began in East Asia, came to England in the nineteenth century. And it was from there that his victorious march through the countries of Europe began. True, then this plant was called a tree-like or Egyptian onion. Due to the very strong aroma and spicy taste of its airy "bulbs", it was already used in the preparation of marinades of finely chopped vegetables as a seasoning. In Russia, this garden culture appeared much later - at the end of the last century.

Beneficial features

According to experts, the leaves of this onion have excellent phytoncidal properties and can be used as an anti-inflammatory agent. Its green part is very rich in nutrients. Compared to the onion variety, the multi-tiered onion contains much more vitamin C and carotene.

Another valuable quality of this original plant is that it does not accumulate nitrates, and in terms of nutritional value it is much superior even to batun. In addition, this species enhances the secretory activity of the intestines and stomach better than others, and is characterized as a pronounced bactericidal and antihelminthic folk remedy.

Description

Belonging to the onion family, this garden plant has a very interesting appearance. Its leaves are wide, tubular, covered with a wax coating, as a result of which they acquire a bluish tint. They grow up to forty centimeters in length. The tubular arrow ends with an inflorescence, on which air bulbs then form. The height of the first "link" of the arrow can reach up to a meter. From the first inflorescence a new one grows, which also ends with airy "fruits".

Thus, up to four levels can form on average on one plant. Air bulbs, weighing about one and a half grams, hang in a bouquet on inflorescences, forming three to thirty such heads on each. The fruits are covered with a strong skin.

The multi-tiered onion, whose varieties are not numerous, has not yet received wide recognition in our country, although in its properties, if not superior, then it is not inferior to other varieties. Meanwhile, this plant is one of the best among those that give greens in early spring. It has a very resilient crispy feather, while the batun, for example, is soft and not so juicy.

bulbs

The multi-tiered variety differs from the onion and other perennial varieties of its species with an exotic flower arrow. From two to five "floors" are formed on it, on each of which from three to eight bulbs of an elongated rounded shape grow together in nests. They are dressed in "shirts" of purple, yellow or brown.

The inner scales are whitish, with a slight greenishness. The size of these amazing air bulbs gradually decreases from the first to the last tier. The largest of them are located below.

Arrows break under the weight of the crop, so they need to be tied up. If this is not done, the peduncle may end up on the ground, and the bulbs will germinate in the soil where they fall. This is why a multi-tiered bow is sometimes referred to as a "walking" bow.

Often, on long pedicels, white single flowers are formed among the heads, but they are sterile.

This plant does not form seeds, it reproduces only vegetatively or by dividing the bush. By July, its air bulbs sprout right on the bush, since they do not have a dormant period. Underground ones ripen only by September.

Agricultural technology

A multi-tiered onion, planting and caring for which is carried out in almost the same way as, for example, for a onion variety, under certain conditions, can be grown in one place for up to five years. With proper agricultural technology, each such three-year-old plant can produce up to four kilograms of crop per square meter.

Many gardeners plant multi-tiered onions on greens in early spring. At the end of autumn, its aerial part dies off almost completely, and in this form it goes to spend the winter. The plant is very frost-resistant: according to experts involved in the selection of vegetable crops, it is not afraid of even forty-degree cold - in the presence of a small snow cover and with strong freezing of the soil. True, the plant must already have a sufficiently developed root system.

However, sudden changes in temperature can be dangerous for this onion, especially in March and April, when after an early and prolonged thaw, severe frosts suddenly come again. At the same time, even bulbs hidden under a layer of snow that have fallen from a bush retain their germination capacity even on the very surface of the soil.

Landing

Experienced gardeners, who have already managed to get a crop more than once, determine for themselves when to plant a multi-tiered onion. With summer planting, he manages to take root. Having released shoots and formed several leaves, the plant will go to wintering, and will begin to grow in early spring. If the heads are planted in the ground immediately after they ripen, then one feature of this culture must be taken into account: it will be possible to collect feathers only next year in mid-March. Otherwise, by harvesting the crop in the fall, you can destroy the onion, which, in a fragile state, will not be able to overwinter.

Basal bulbs should be planted in a square nesting pattern with a distance of twenty centimeters between them. Planting a multi-tiered onion can also be carried out more densely if the seedling is small. In this case, the depth of laying in the soil also changes: for large ones - about ten, for the rest - up to six centimeters.

At the same time, each fraction must be planted separately, since they differ not only in the type of sowing, but also in the timing of harvesting the pen.

Some gardeners, already familiar with the characteristics of this culture, use a more rational option. Dividing the bed into two parts, they often plant heads on one, less often on the other.

In early spring, from the first part, they harvest the greens along with the bulbs, pulling out the plantings and thereby thinning out the plot, and leave the second until the summer in order to have lush greens in June, which will just need to be cut. The bulbs obtained from the tiers are immediately placed in the ground. Cropped stumps will again give a bountiful harvest, and the planted material will be able to take root and safely overwinter. Apparently, thanks to these features, many people prefer to have multi-tiered onions in their garden.

cultivation

This plant is cultivated in both perennial and annual crops. It grows best on areas of southern or southwestern slopes, early freed from snow cover, on light fertile soils. In general, its cultivation differs little from the agricultural technology of the batun, but it also has its own characteristics.

In non-chernozem zones, as a perennial crop, especially in northern and damp lands, a multi-tiered variety grows better on ridges, and as an annual, planted in dry areas in the middle and southern regions - on a flat surface. At the same time, the preparation of the site with the scheme of its planting is no different from growing a batun.

Peculiarities

In spring, a multi-tiered onion sprouts one of the first among perennials. Its leaves grow very quickly even with some shading of the site. Experienced gardeners say that growing this plant is not at all difficult. It will feel good on any soil and in any conditions.

Of course, on loose soil, free of weeds, with frequent watering and proper feeding, it will delight with its harvest, but even in a forgotten far corner of the site, it will bear fruit.

By the fifth or sixth year, many new basal bulbs are formed, so the planting thickens. In turn, the underground part of the bulbs is noticeably smaller. Therefore, the plant is transplanted or simply thinned out.

How multi-tiered onions propagate

This plant, as you know, does not form seeds. It propagates by basal or aerial bulbs. The latter take root much faster. It is better to take large material from the first two tiers for planting. In the first year in the fall, they form two or three daughter bulbs.

The heads for sowing must be ripe and have roots or root tubercles on the bottom.

Reproduction of multi-tiered onions is best done using material collected from three- or four-year-old plants. Heads intended for distillation, as well as for winter or spring planting, must be dried and stored at a temperature of about zero degrees.

Care

After the snow melts from the onion beds, you need to remove all dead plant residues. After that, start feeding. Usually, by the third or fourth year after planting, the beds of multi-tiered onions become too thickened. Therefore, in autumn or early spring they are thinned out, leaving one, maximum two basal heads in each nest. Some use the extra bulbs for food, while they are also perfect as planting material.

The highest yield has a two- or three-year-old bush. In prolonged cool and rainy weather, air bulbs ripen worse. The leaves grow well and retain their green appearance until the very frost.

In dry, hot weather, air bulbs should be collected at the end of July, maximum at the beginning of August, because by this period the arrows, having turned yellow, begin to dry out.

In early spring, multi-tiered onions are best grown under a film. In this case, greens can be obtained fifteen days earlier than in open ground. Moreover, as experienced gardeners say, it will have a lighter color and a less pungent taste.

top dressing

In early spring, mineral fertilizers must be applied to the soil. Potassium chloride, ammonium nitrate and superphosphate are mixed at the rate of ten grams per square meter of land. A month later, feeding the beds with onions must be repeated again, not forgetting to loosen the aisles.

In our country, unfortunately, only one variety of this amazing onion has been released so far: this is Odessa Winter 12.

Based on these experiments, it can be argued that the northern vegetatively propagated onions at different times were imported from the south in the form of seeds or bulbs and cultivated under unusual conditions for them.

Constant vegetative reproduction and storage of seed onions at high; temperature contributed to the emergence of multigerm bulbs, and their systematic selection for this valuable trait led to its consolidation. Thus, local multi-nested forms of vegetatively propagated onions arose.

Studies of subsequent years have convinced us that vegetatively propagated onions are not representatives of a special species - Allium ascalonicum L. Such forms can be obtained from any variety of onions by long-term cultivation of seed onions under certain conditions that promote the development of vegetative buds on the stem of bulbs, and the selection of non-shooting onions. multi-nosed plants.

Along with typically vegetatively propagated varieties and populations and multi-primitive onion varieties periodically grown from seeds (Troitsky local, Skopinsky local, Spassky local, Pogarsky local, etc.), there are intermediate forms of onions, in which, after many years of vegetative propagation, within one year, seeds. For example, the onions of the Estonian SSR are grown vegetatively for 6-7 years, then one seed reproduction is obtained, and then the onions are again propagated vegetatively. Such onions are characterized by precocity and keeping quality, passing through the vernalization stage at elevated temperatures, and other features that make them similar to vegetatively propagated onions. At the same time, these onions have properties similar to local multi-bud onions, when up to 6 strong bulbs with increased primordia are formed in the nest.

Seeds of vegetatively propagated onions and ordinary spicy varieties of onions grow into sets. With further vegetative propagation, branching in these varieties proceeds in different ways.

Comparing the branching of multi-bearing varieties and local vegetatively propagated onions, we can say that in the latter it is much more pronounced. Usually already in the 2-3rd year after seed reproduction, the number of bulbs in the nest reaches 6-14, and this is not the limit: over the years, the number of bulbs in the nest may increase. In multi-bearing varieties, after 2-3 years, the usual number of bulbs in the nest is established for this variety.

Vegetative buds laid in the axils of the leaves, depending on the position

on the stem they have a different age: the lower buds are older, the upper ones are younger.

Under favorable storage conditions (0-10 ° C), all the buds on the stem undergo vernalization, as a result, all the branches of the plant throw out an arrow. Under insufficiently favorable conditions, only the lower buds completely undergo vernalization, and the upper ones partially, then branches without an arrow appear. Under unfavorable conditions for the vernalization process, i.e., at very high (above 18°C) or very low (about 0°C) storage temperatures, no bolting is observed, or it is of a single character.

Local vegetatively propagated onions, under the influence of long-term storage under conditions that delay the passage of the vernalization stage, partially lose the ability to form generative organs. So, if for ordinary onion varieties grown through sets, the best temperature for vernalization is a temperature of 6-10 ° C with a duration of exposure of 80-100 days, then for vegetatively propagated forms - respectively 10-12 ° C and 100-150 days.

Winter planting and storage at low temperatures contribute to the completion of the vernalization stage, as a result, after 2-3 years, bolting is completely restored in vegetatively propagated forms and all buds located on the bottom are able to give arrows. Storage of vegetatively propagated onions at 12-15 ° C contributes to partial vernalization - branches (bulbs) are formed on the plant with arrows and without them.

Bud differentiation at the base of the bulbs begins shortly after the storage of the onion and, as Emsweler and Jones pointed out, is completed by spring, whether the onion is planted in the field or in storage. The number of buds formed depends on temperature, air humidity, storage time under certain conditions, bulb size and other factors.

The shape of the bulb is determined by the number of primordia: elongated ones have a small number, flat ones have the largest number. The density of the bulb is also directly dependent on the number of primordia: the more branches are laid in the bulb, the thinner its juicy scales become and the tighter they fit together.

On a shortened stem of an onion bulb, daughter buds can be laid in different places. The closer to the base of the stem the buds are laid, the more they are formed and the more they expand the bulb, increasing the pressure on the juicy scales. As a result, the bulbs are compacted, acquiring a flat shape.

The temperature regime of storage of bulbs of onions and garlic ultimately determines the pace and nature of the development of the plant, and, consequently, its early maturity. Such an aftereffect of temperature is not uncommon and is observed in many plant species (clover, rye, rapeseed, winter wheat, etc.).

On vegetable crops, this phenomenon has been studied to a lesser extent, but the conclusions were similar. Thus, Vent found that tomatoes at a variable daily temperature with a significant decrease in it at night grow better than tomatoes grown at a uniformly high temperature.

Bryzgalova showed that storage of gladiolus corms at a temperature of 25°C stimulated rapid growth, while storage at a low temperature significantly weakened its rate.

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