Hyacinths description. Hyacinth, growing in the garden and at home. Hyacinth in the open field

Hyacinth is a delicate romantic flower with a lush, like a whole bouquet, inflorescence. It belongs to the Asparagus family. The homeland of the plant is North Africa, the Mediterranean and Asia Minor. At the same time, it can be grown even in open ground in colder regions. In early spring, an arrow appears and soon bright flowers bloom on it. Not surprisingly, hyacinths are often used as a gift in a pot for the spring holidays. You can achieve flowering by another date. Often, at the end of flowering, people do not know how to care for the bulb and simply throw it away, but it is not so difficult to keep the flower for several years and even increase the vegetation.

Plant appearance

Hyacinth is a rather compact (up to 30 cm in height) herbaceous plant. It is fed by a round bulb covered with dark brown scales. Thin light brown roots sprout from the bottom. The continuation of the bulb is a fleshy stem that appears in early spring on the surface of the earth. The base of the shoot is hidden under dense, enclosing linear leaves. They have a uniform green color and are almost equal in height to the flower arrow.

The top of the stem is decorated with a dense racemose inflorescence, consisting of many medium-sized bell-shaped or cone-shaped corollas. Flowers consist of 5 petals fused at the base. Their coloration is very varied. It can be monophonic or variegated, with a longitudinal stripe in the center of the petal. Flowers combine white, pink, yellow, orange, blue, purple, burgundy, purple shades. The edges of the petals are strongly bent and twisted. Flowers exude a pleasant, intense fragrance.

Pollination occurs with the help of insects, after which leathery seed pods, divided into 3 nests, ripen. Each contains 2 small seeds covered with delicate skin.

Types and varieties of hyacinth

The hyacinth genus is very modest, it includes only 3 plant species.

A shoot up to 25 cm high is covered with a loose brush of light blue flowers with narrow, twisted petals. Elongated stamens protrude from the center. The upright wide leaves are bluish-green in color.

1-2 shoots up to 20 cm long grow from each bulb. A small number of larger tubular flowers of a rich blue hue grow in the upper part of the peduncle. Petals grow together almost completely and are separated only along the edge. The leaves of the variety are wider and fleshy, painted in a dark green hue.

The most common variety, which has become the basis for many ornamental varieties. A thin peduncle densely covered with fragrant tubular flowers, painted in shades of blue, yellow, white and pink. Decorative varieties are usually grouped by color:

• blue - delft blue (light blue flowers on an arrow up to 30 cm long), Marie (dark blue petals with purple strokes);
• pink - fondant (dense brush of bright pink stars up to 4 cm in diameter), moreno (variegated raspberry-pink flowers), yang bare (brush up to 8 cm long consists of bright red flowers);
• orange and yellow - gypsy queen (flowers with strongly dissected narrow petals are painted salmon-orange); Yellow Hammer (broad brush with bright yellow, gradually fading colors);
• white - Carnegie (very dense snow-white brush with simple flowers), snow crystal (white double flowers bloom a little later than the others).

Reproduction methods

Hyacinths do not reproduce very actively, but with due effort it is possible to get new plants. You can use seed and vegetative methods. The use of seeds is relevant in breeding work or for species plants. To do this, in the middle of autumn, boxes are prepared with a mixture of leafy soil, humus and sand. Freshly harvested seeds are distributed in them to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. The container is covered with a film and kept in a cool room. Regularly you need to moisten the soil and remove condensation. With the advent of seedlings, the shelter is removed. In spring and summer, hyacinths are put outside. For 2 years they are grown in boxes and only then transplanted into separate pots or into open ground. Flowering of seedlings begins from 5-7 years of age.

You can use reproduction with bulbs. At the base of the first leaf, a large bud is formed, from which the baby develops. The daughter bulb develops slowly, but when fully ripe, it easily separates and soon blooms.

The rudiments of babies are formed in large numbers along the perimeter of the bottom, but for their development it is necessary to make incisions or completely cut off the bottom from the bulb. To do this, use a large (more than 5 cm in diameter) bulb. A cut bottom or the entire bulb with cuts of about 6 mm is planted upside down in the soil. The buds are only slightly crushed with soil. Plants contain at temperatures above +21°C. After 2-3 months, full-fledged small onions can be found at the cut site. Their number reaches 20-40 pieces. Care and storage is carried out according to the standard scheme. Flowering begins in 3-4 years.

Home care

In order for hyacinth to grow in a pot at home, it needs to create the most comfortable conditions. The container is chosen not too deep, of medium size. Be sure to lay out a thick layer of drainage material. 1-3 bulbs are placed in one container. There should be enough free space so that the plants do not come into contact with the walls of the pot and with each other. It is not worth it to deepen the planting material too much. About half the height of the bulb should be on the surface.

The soil mixture for planting is made up of the following components:

• peat;
• leafy humus;
• leaf land;
• sand;
• sod land.

They are taken equally, thoroughly mixed and disinfected. Some growers germinate bulbs in water. This is possible, but the liquid must contain the required amount of mineral fertilizers.

A pot of hyacinth must be placed in a well-lit place. Light day should last 15 hours or more. Sometimes this cannot be achieved without a phytolamp. On hot days, you will need shading from direct sunlight. It is also necessary to ventilate the room more often, but you should protect the flower from drafts.

Hyacinth prefers coolness. It feels best at +20..+22°C. In summer, it is advisable to put the plant on a balcony or veranda.

Like all bulbous plants, hyacinth should be watered with care so that the liquid does not stagnate near the bulbs. Otherwise, rot will quickly develop. It is best to water through the pan. For irrigation use well-filtered, warm water.

It is undesirable to spray the plant, it normally adapts to the usual humidity in the room. During the flowering period, drops of water will lead to the rapid withering of the buds.

Hyacinth gratefully responds to top dressing. During the growing season, a universal mineral complex is used 2-3 times in the form of granules or concentrate. Before fertilizing, the soil is watered with a small amount of purified water.

After flowering, hyacinth care becomes even less burdensome. Watering is significantly reduced, waiting until the peduncles and leaves wither and dry. The bulbs should be dug up, inspected for damage and disinfected with Karbofos. Then they are immersed in hot (50°C) water for 10 minutes. Then the bulbs are dried in the fresh air in a shaded, cool (+20°C) place. Store hyacinths in paper bags or boxes for 3 months. The first 8 weeks the temperature is maintained at +25°C, and then lowered to +17°C. Before the next planting, warm up to + 30 ° C for a week.

Hyacinth in the open field

In the garden for hyacinths, choose a well-lit place with loose soil. Landing is carried out in the fall, 1.5 months before the onset of frost. This time is enough for rooting, but the peduncle will not have time to appear. Already 1.5-2 months before planting, it is time to start preparing the site. They dig it up, break up clods of earth, and also remove weeds and old roots. If necessary, rotted manure, superphosphate, peat and sand are added to the soil. Dolomite flour is added to too acidic soils.

Bulbs with a diameter of 5 cm or more are planted at a depth of 15-18 cm from the bottom, with a distance of 15-20 cm from each other. For smaller bulbs, these figures are reduced. To protect plantings from fungus, a sand cushion 3-5 cm thick is formed. Landing should be carried out in dry weather. Immediately after the manipulations, the soil is watered.

Regular care comes down to weeding and loosening the soil. Watering is carried out only with a long absence of precipitation.

During active growth, feed twice a month. You can use mineral and organic compounds (mullein, saltpeter, superphosphate, potassium sulfate).

Leaving hyacinths in the garden for a dormant period is not recommended. They are dug up annually, processed and sorted, otherwise the flowering will become weak. Plants should be dug up already in mid-June, without waiting for the leaves to completely wither, since in this case it will be more difficult to detect bulbs in the ground. They are washed and disinfected, and after drying they are stored in a cool place.

plant distillation

With the usual care scheme, hyacinth bloom occurs at the beginning of spring. However, the appearance of a flower is possible at other times. For example, to any important event. With the help of distillation, flowers appear in December-May.

It is advisable not to allow flowering in the season preceding the lining. The emerging peduncle is cut off immediately. 2-2.5 months before the intended event, the bulb should be placed with the pot in the refrigerator. The soil is very poorly moistened. By the end of the eighth week, sprouts will appear. When they reach a height of 5-6 cm, the pot is transferred to a cool, well-lit room. The development of shoots occurs quite quickly, they soon acquire a juicy green hue and buds appear.

Possible difficulties

Hyacinths have good immunity, but suffer from fungal infections at the slightest violation of the irrigation regime. When infected, the foliage begins to dry, and flowering either does not occur at all, or is less abundant and ends quickly. The dug bulb itself is covered with mucus and exudes an unpleasant odor. To prevent the spread of the disease, the infected specimen should be destroyed along with a clod of earth and the adjacent plantings should be treated with copper-containing preparations.

Sometimes, after a dormant period, hyacinth foliage develops well, and the peduncle does not appear at all or stops growing at the very surface of the earth. The reason lies not in the disease, but in the wrong care. Often this is due to excessive watering or pressure on the rhizome. In the current season, it will no longer be possible to correct the situation, but in the future the plant may please with flowers.

Hyacinth (Hyacinthus) was introduced to Europe around the 16th century. This fragrant versatile flower is grown in open beds, in greenhouses and greenhouses, at home, in pots or bought cut simply for flowerpots. It blooms in early spring and winter, but only if you know how to grow it correctly. About the features of this plant and its planting, reproduction can be found below in the article.

Characteristics of hyacinth

Characteristics of hyacinth

Hyacinth flowers are native to the Mediterranean and the Middle East. The hyacinth flower is a perennial bulbous plant. All species are characterized by similar external features. The bulb is always dense, consists of fleshy leaves. The stem is dense, thick, 20-40 cm high. The inflorescence ripens at the top. The leaves are grooved, green, 15-20 cm long and about 1.5 cm wide.

Hyacinth flowers are always collected in one brush, like an ear. They have a rich, bright aroma that spreads throughout the district. Perianth in the form of a funnel with curved lobes, has a bright color. The fruit is a box with 3 nests. The natural color of hyacinth is blue, but thanks to the work of breeders, new varieties and hybrids delight with a rich color palette (white, different shades of pink and red, yellow, purple, blue). After flowering, the flower itself dies, then the stem and the leaves surrounding it, but the bulb itself remains intact and gives new inflorescences after a short rest.

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Varieties of hyacinths

The hyacinth flower is incredibly popular, so breeders do not get tired of creating new varieties with the most unusual colors.

• "Jan Bos" produces red flowers with a diameter of 3 cm. They are lighter at the edges than in the middle. Zev whitish. There are up to 30 flowers in the inflorescence, it is small, but dense, cone-shaped, up to 10 cm high and 5.5 cm in diameter. The peduncle is powerful - 16-18 cm. Early flowering, can give a second color. Suitable for early forcing.
• "Delft Blue" - an early variety, within 30 cm in height. The inflorescences are tight, bright blue. There are not very many leaves, they have a green color. The scent is strong but delicate. Suitable for forcing.
• 'Yellow Queen' is a large-flowered hyacinth with creamy yellow buds and white edging. Flowers up to 4 cm in diameter, in the inflorescence there are up to 50 flowers. The inflorescence is dense, cylindrical. Flower height 30 cm, flowering occurs in April. Suitable for forcing.
• "Rosalia" grows up to 20 cm in height. The buds are pink. The inflorescence is usually narrow but dense with 15-20 flowers 2 cm in diameter. This variety is very beautiful, but, unfortunately, the flowering period is short.
• "Edelweiss" is a hyacinth growing within 20-25 cm. The inflorescence is tall, wide with 20 medium-sized flowers (diameter 3.5 cm). Blooms in mid-April. The buds are always snow-white, stand out against the background of bright green foliage.

Planting a hyacinth

Hyacinths can grow both indoors and outdoors. They can often be found on sale, in small pots, in winter or early spring - these are one of the most popular flowers. But in order to get winter flowering at home, it is necessary to carry out distillation in time. Distillation is a set of measures aimed at enhancing plant growth. For its implementation, hyacinth bulbs are placed in conditions of high temperature, humidity, highlighting, top dressing are arranged to awaken the culture and achieve rapid growth.

Only healthy, dense bulbs no smaller than 5-6 cm in size are suitable for forcing. They should not be light, painful or damaged! The preparation of such bulbs begins in the summer. After the hyacinth fades and the foliage wilts, the planting material is dug up, washed and dried in the shade. This time usually falls at the end of June. Then, it is placed in storage in a dry and cool room until September, so that the plant rests and recuperates.

For distillation, it is best to take bulbs grown in the open field. And in order to get a 100% result, it is recommended to pay attention to varieties bred specifically for distillation.

Home care for hyacinths is very simple, if you initially plant correctly. Planting time depends on when you need to receive flowers. For example, when planting a hyacinth in September, flowers are received around the New Year, and planting in mid-November ensures flowering by March.

Home care

Before planting, the bulbs are determined for 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate to disinfect. The soil can be taken purchased, for indoor plants. The capacity for planting can be different: individual cups, pots for several plants - it depends on why the flower is grown. The pots are filled with earth almost to the top, then the bulb is planted (the top should be at the level of the edge of the container) bottom down. If several plants are planted, then the distance between them should be at least 3 cm.

After planting, the pot is covered with a film (with holes for ventilation) and placed in a dark, cool place, such as a refrigerator for 2 months. The temperature of the content should be within +5 degrees. As the top of the soil dries, it needs to be moistened. When the sprouts reach a height of 3-5 cm, they are transferred to a room with a temperature of +12 degrees and a slight darkening. After 2-3 days, you can place them closer to the light, but you can transfer the hyacinth flower to a permanent, sunny place when it releases buds.

Hyacinth care at home

Even if a hyacinth shoots, it does not mean that it will produce beautiful, large flowers. In order for flowering to be plentiful and long, it is necessary to provide good growth conditions. Hyacinth care at home involves the implementation of several basic rules.

1. After the hyacinth flower has launched a pagon with a bud, you need to place it in a permanent place in the house, where it will bloom. Such a place should be bright and warm.
2. The temperature in the room is maintained within +15…+20 degrees Celsius.

It is impossible to feed hyacinth with fresh manure - this will lead to damage to the bulbs.

1. The soil must be kept moist at all times. Drying out or excess water will shorten the flowering period and damage the bulb.
2. Top dressing will ensure longer flowering. For this, irrigation with mineral fertilizers is carried out. Any complex remedy for flowering houseplants will do.

Care after flowering

As you can see, home care for hyacinth is not very difficult. But what to do when the plant has faded? Unfortunately, the bulb used for forcing cannot be reused for this procedure. But that doesn't mean it should be thrown away. After flowering at home, in a pot, it is transplanted into the garden, where the hyacinth will continue to grow and produce flowers once a year - in the spring. How to do it?

Interesting!

In order for the hyacinth to give a large, lush color in the winter in a pot, you should not let it bloom in the spring, in the open field! As soon as the plant begins to start a flower spike, it must be cut off so that it puts all its strength into the development of the bulb.

Immediately after the forcing is over, and the plant has given a flower, it is left at home, watered and cared for, as indicated above. But when the culture has faded, and the leaves begin to fade, you can stop regular watering. The leaves should dry completely, then they are removed, the bulb is removed from the soil and stored in a cool and dry place. Planting in open ground is carried out in autumn, when the ground temperature is +5 ... +10 degrees (September-October).

Hyacinth is planted in a bright area, where there is a lot of sun, there is no swampiness and constant shade. The soil must be loose. A hole or groove is made in the ground, and hyacinths are planted there (1-2 cm from the soil level). For the winter, it is better to mulch the ground so that the bulbs do not freeze.

Bulb propagation

The main feature of the hyacinth is that the bulb does not form replacement bulbs, like a tulip. In the propagation of the plant, bulbs and babies are used. But the seeds are used only for breeding new varieties.

When babies appear at the central bulb, reproduction can be carried out. To do this, dig an onion, there will be up to 4 children on it. They are separated and used for planting. To have a lot of children, you need to cut the bottom of the bulb with a pointed teaspoon and remove the bases of the scaly leaves, and then plant the bulb in the soil. By maintaining the temperature at +20 degrees, you can get a lot of babies within 2 months, which appear on sections of scaly leaves.

The second option is less complicated. It is only necessary to cut the bottom of the bulb by 0.5 cm 2-4 times, and then place the bulb in a dry, warm place (+20 degrees) for a day. Then the bulb is planted in the ground and after 2-3 months you can collect the children.

Important! When cutting the bulb, it is recommended to treat the cutting sites with fungicides to prevent infection.

Diseases and other problems

Hyacinths rarely get sick. The reason for the development of diseases or the appearance of pests can be poor planting material, contaminated land, an unfavorable place for growth.

• Yellow bacterial rot affects the hyacinth flower in the bulb. And as a result of this, they turn into a shapeless mucus with an unpleasant odor. The rotting process cannot be stopped, so any affected bulbs are burned.

So that hyacinths do not get sick and do not infect healthy plants, you need to carefully select planting material and discard all bad and diseased bulbs.

• If the inflorescence falls out, this means that the plant has too much water and needs to stop watering or even transplant to save the bulb.
• Hyacinth does not bloom when the rules of watering, lighting or poor soil for growth are not followed.
• Yellowing of the leaves is a signal that the plant has little light or moisture.

Hyacinth (Hyacinthus) - a beautiful bulbous plant from the Asparagaceae family, flowering in spring. From the ancient Greek language, the name is translated as “flower of the rains”, since the hyacinth blooms with the first spring rains. But the Greeks also called it the "flower of sorrow" and associated this flower with Apollo and the murder of the young son of the king of Sparta. This graceful plant is native to the Mediterranean and Southeast Asia.

The flowering stalk of hyacinth can be both undersized and quite high. A juicy peduncle comes out of the rosette of leaves with numerous flowers that resemble bells and are collected in a racemose inflorescence. Flowers are presented in the most unexpected shades. The leaves are smooth, fleshy, bright green.

Popular types of hyacinth

All possible hyacinths can be divided into three main types that grow mainly in Mediterranean countries. Although botanists continue to argue about some varieties, wanting to designate them as independent, according to official data, only the following main types of hyacinths are distinguished:

Eastern Hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis)- the most famous and widespread type. It is from this species that the most famous ornamental varieties originate. It grows wild in Dalmatia, Greece and Asia Minor. . The peduncle of the plant is thin, the flowers are rare. The flowers have a different color and a pleasant aroma.

Hyacinth Litvinova- a perennial herbaceous plant that is cultivated more like an annual. In the wild, it is found in the eastern regions of Iran and Turkmenistan. Among this species there are both tall and short specimens. The flower is extremely beautiful. Blue, purple and greenish colors dominate. The leaves are slightly wider than those of the hyacinth orientalis.

Hyacinth transcaspian- has rather high stems, as a rule, two peduncles. The color of the flowers is always light blue. In the wild, it is found in the Kopetdag mountains.

Hyacinth care at home

Hyacinth is primarily a garden plant. If you want to grow it at home, you need to recreate the natural conditions as much as possible. This task is not an easy one, but with due diligence and zeal, a novice florist can also cope.

Location and lighting

The best option is the southern and southeastern windows. And the reason lies in the great love for sunlight. Hyacinth needs daylight - at least 15 hours a day. So, if you place it on the west or north side, you will have to help the plant with fluorescent lamps.

Even if the plant loves light, direct sunlight can harm it, so it is better to shade the windows on hot summer days or remove the plant from the windowsill during the day. The pot with the plant periodically needs to be turned in different directions.

Temperature

A sharp change in heat and cold, drafts, hot batteries - all this negatively affects the flower. The most suitable temperature for comfortable growth of hyacinth is 20-22 degrees Celsius. But, given that this flower is primarily positioned as a garden flower, then being on the street or balcony in the warm season will only benefit him.

Watering and humidity

The plant needs regular but careful watering. Watering must be carried out very carefully. If water is on any part of the plant, then the festering of this part may begin and as a result the hyacinth will die. A safe option is to irrigate by immersion, and it is better to refuse watering cans. Water should be warm, soft and settled.

Hyacinth does not need spraying. And when it blooms - it is generally contraindicated!

The optimal soil composition for hyacinth will be a substrate of leafy soil, humus, peat, soddy soil and sand. All this must be mixed in equal parts.

Top dressings and fertilizers

Hyacinth constantly needs top dressing. As a fertilizer, you can use any universal for indoor plants. Hyacinths in the garden can be fertilized both in dry form and in dissolved form. But before applying liquid fertilizers, the plant must be watered.

Bulb selection and forcing hyacinths

In order to get a beautiful flower in the future, hyacinth bulbs should be purchased only in trusted specialized stores. When buying bulbs, you need to carefully inspect and make sure that they are not damaged or diseased. A healthy plant will grow only if the bulb is elastic and smooth, which has a clear neck and shoulders. In most cases, the color of the scales and the bulb coincides with the future inflorescence. Its size does not always tell about the quality of the bulb, however, if its diameter is within 5 cm, this is a good indicator. The best time to buy bulbs is late summer.

If you are going to buy an already adult plant, you need to carefully examine the leaves and stem of the hyacinth. The stem should stand straight, the leaves should also look up, and the peduncle should not be tilted.

How to get flowers at the right time

In order to get a chic peduncle from the bulb, you need to provide the plant with the coolness of this autumn. During this period, the temperature regime should be within 5-9 degrees Celsius. This can be achieved by sending the plant to the basement or to the bottom shelf in the refrigerator. And to enhance the effect, the bulb in the ground can be wrapped with an opaque bag. Of course, care during this period is minimized. Surprisingly, it is these conditions that are optimal for the active growth of hyacinth. This usually goes on for 2 months.

When a sprout appears (about 5 cm), the plant needs "spring", that is, the temperature regime must be changed to 13-15 degrees. At this temperature, it must be kept until the first buds appear. And with their appearance, hyacinth needs a temperature - 20-22 degrees Celsius. The temperature transition must be smooth, otherwise the flower may die or look painful.

Hyacinth care after flowering

After flowering, during the dormant period, the most important thing for hyacinth is the correct temperature regime. Watering should be moderate. When the hyacinth fades and its leaves wither, it's time to take care of the bulb. The peduncle and leaves should be cut off, and the bulb should be dug up. This usually happens in June.

The bulb must be carefully examined, if there is a need (or for preventive purposes) to be disinfected. And then, changing the temperature regime from 30 to 17 degrees, store it until the autumn landing.

Planting a hyacinth at home in a pot

When planting a hyacinth, it is allowed to place up to 3 bulbs in one pot (their sizes are taken into account). It is impossible for the bulbs to come into contact with the walls of the pot and with each other - there should be 2 cm between them. The pots should be of medium size. Drainage is necessarily poured at the bottom of the pot - it can be river sand, which should occupy 2 cm in a pot. The top of the bulb should be raised above the soil. After planting, the substrate must be pressed, watered and sprinkled with sand. Then the pot must be placed in a bag, tied, but first make several holes in it and put it in a cool dark place.

Some grow hyacinths without soil in water. This is a very real way, but a prerequisite is mineral fertilizers dissolved in water. The hyacinth bulb should be on the surface of the container, only slightly touching the water. For some time it should be in a dark, cool room. And with the advent of roots, the plant should be relocated to a bright room.

Reproduction of hyacinth at home

There are several ways to propagate hyacinths. At home, relevant: baby bulbs and scales. In a natural way, a maximum of 5 children can be obtained from one bulb during the growing season. To achieve maximum results, use the method of cutting the bulb. The process requires a change in temperature regimes and regular treatment with a fungicide. But if everything is done correctly, then after 3 months small baby bulbs are guaranteed to appear.

Diseases and pests

The main pests of hyacinths: aphids, thrips, spider mites, stem and gall nematodes, flower flies. They are able to destroy the plant - the leaves turn yellow, wither, the buds fall off, the bulbs become rotten and rot. Each case has its own methods of control, but most of them are associated with the use of insecticides.

In addition to pests, various diseases that can be non-infectious, infectious, viral, bacterial and fungal in nature become enemies of hyacinths. The most common and dangerous are yellow bacterial rot and soft bacterial rot. In a diseased plant, the leaves turn black and dry from the top. Watery and brown stripes appear along the veins of the leaves and on the peduncle. First, yellow spots appear on the bulbs, and then the whole bulb rots and begins to emit a stench. This plant cannot be saved. The diseased plant and the bulb should be burned, and the hole should be treated with formalin or bleach.

Problems of growing hyacinths

If the hyacinth is not properly cared for, the following problems may occur:

1. White Pearl, Carnegie, White Festival - pure white
2. City of Haarlem - pale yellow
3. Delft Blue, Blue Festival - blue, shades of Gzhel
4. Ostara, Amethyst, Blue Jacket, Kronos, Peter Stuyvesant – purple
5. Gypsy Queen - pale orange
6. China Pink, Anna Marie, Pink Festival, Splendid Cornelia – pink
7. Jan Bos – red-pink
8. pink pearl – bright pink
9. woodstock – burgundy
10. Midnight Mystique – black hyacinth, first introduced at the Chelsea Garden Show 2005 by Thompson & Morgan.

Hyacinth. Growing at home

If you want to practice breeding hyacinth at home, you will need to create conditions for him that are close to natural. It means cool content house hyacinth in the ground in winter with moderate moisture (on the loggia?), warmth and peace in summer and a natural transition between seasons. ABOUT growing hyacinth in the garden read below.

Hyacinth: planting and care

Plant hyacinth bulbs follows simultaneously with daffodils, in August - September, to a depth of 15-20 cm. The distance between plants is 15 cm. For better flowering and larger inflorescences, a little fertilizer can be added to each hole. Read about how and when to plant bulbs.

hyacinths they prefer an open, sunny or semi-shady location with protection from the wind and light structured soils, consisting of a mixture of sand and humus, with good water permeability. After hyacinth bloom cut the peduncle as high as possible and let the leaves turn yellow and die naturally so that the beneficial substances get back into the plant bulb. I mulch the soil right on top of the withered spring bulbous leaves with fresh compost. So three tasks are performed at once: protection and feeding primrose bulbs, as well as improving the appearance of the flower garden. Good care important to prevent hyacinth diseases.

Hyacinth propagation

propagate hyacinth small onions (baby), which on an adult bulb of a plant form an average of 3-4 per year. Baby carefully separated from the mother bulb during the summer dormancy (if it is easily separated) and planted in the ground before adult bulbs, at the end of summer. Such bulbs grow and bloom in 2-3 years. Hyacinth seed propagation practiced in breeding, but not effective in amateur gardening: the offspring will differ from the parent and will bloom only after 5-6 years.

Storing hyacinth bulbs

In regions with cold, damp summers, it is recommended dig up hyacinth bulbs in the first half of summer and store them in a warm (+20-22 degrees), well-ventilated and not too dry place until planting time. In progress storage of hyacinth bulbs check them and remove defective specimens at the first sign of decay. In warmer and drier regions hyacinth bulbs can be left in the ground for the summer, but they should be dug up every few years for division and transplantation.

Hyacinth in landscape design

Hyacinth is a traditional favorite of formal gardens, where the plant is planted in raised, symmetrical beds in an intricate pattern. Less pompous, but more elegant, for my taste, look hyacinths in natural gardens, scattered in picturesque mono- or multi-colored groups next to trees and shrubs or along a garden path. hyacinths great for cultivation in pots and containers that can be temporarily flowering put closer to the front door or bring into the house to appreciate the beauty and intoxicating aroma hyacinth flowers.

As is the case with others spring bulbous, do not forget that at the beginning of summer greenery hyacinths will disappear, leaving ugly bare places in the flower garden. Therefore, it is necessary to think in advance about the joint planting hyacinths(for example, with annuals, if hyacinth bulbs will be dug up for the summer) or plant hyacinths next to beautiful perennials, whose lush greenery in the summer will mask the resulting voids.

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Hyacinths - growing: planting and care, hyacinth after flowering

Flower hyacinth (lat. Hyacinthus), - a genus of bulbous perennials from the Asparagus family, although it was previously isolated in a separate Hyacinth family or included in the Liliaceae family. From ancient Greek, the name of the flower is translated as "flower of the rains." The hyacinth got its name in honor of the hero of the ancient Greek myth: in those distant times there lived a beautiful young man Hyacinth, the son of the king of Sparta, a young friend of the god Apollo, who often descended from heaven and taught Hyacinth to throw a disc. During one of the trainings, Apollo threw a disk, and Hyacinth rushed after him to pick it up and bring it to Apollo, but the god of the West Wind, secretly in love with the prince, in a fit of jealousy turned the flying disk so that he broke the young man's head. Hyacinth was bleeding in the arms of his all-powerful friend, who could not save him... Heartbroken and filled with tenderness, Apollo created an amazingly beautiful flower from Hyacinth's blood and gave him the name of the deceased young man...

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Hyacinth flowers - description

Hyacinths are one of the earliest spring flowers. The homeland of hyacinths is the Middle East, North Africa and the Mediterranean, but Holland has done so much to popularize them that it can rightfully be called the world's "hyacinth center". The largest number of varieties and varieties of hyacinths was created in the Netherlands, and every year millions of hyacinth bulbs are sent around the world from the Dutch city of Haarlem. Dense bulbs of hyacinths consist of succulent grassroots leaves, and the flowering stem (30 cm in height), which is a continuation of the bottom, dries up after flowering, along with narrow, upward-pointing leaves, sitting at the very bottom of the stem, but in the corner of the top leaf, on the stem inside bulbs, a bud is formed, gradually turning into an onion that will bloom next year. In the corners of other leaves, weak bulbs often also form, the so-called babies, which can be separated and used for vegetative propagation. Hyacinth flowers are collected in apical racemes, having the shape of a cylinder or cone. The perianth of the flower is a brightly colored bell-shaped funnel with recurved lobes. The shades of hyacinth color represent a wide palette: white, red, pink, purple, blue, pale yellow. In the form of flowers, hyacinths are simple and double. The fruit of the hyacinth is three-celled, in each nest there are two seeds with a delicate peel.

Types and varieties of hyacinths

Hyacinths have been grown at home and in the garden for about 400 years, and more recently it was believed that there were about 30 species and 500 varieties of hyacinths. But after the reorganization of classifications in botany, most of the species were transferred to another genus. Now only three types of hyacinths are classified: oriental hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), Litvinov's hyacinth (Hyacinthus litwinowii) And hyacinth transcaspian (Hyacinthus transcaspicus)- these species are the basis for the cultivation of countless varieties and varieties of plants. Varieties of hyacinths are divided according to the shape of the flower (simple and double), according to the timing of flowering (early, medium and late) and the color of the flowers. In the classification according to the color of the flowers, hyacinths are divided into six groups:

Blue hyacinths:

– Perle Brillante- late hyacinth pale blue, height - 25 cm, blooms up to three weeks;

– Marie- an early variety of dark blue color with a purple longitudinal stripe blooms for 16-18 days;

– Queen of the Blues- medium-flowering variety of light blue color with a weak aroma, height - 30 cm, blooms up to two weeks;

Lilac hyacinths:

– blue magic- a medium-flowering variety of purple-violet color, 25 cm high, blooms for 10-12 days;

– Indigo King- late variety of black-violet color, shiny flowers, arrow height 15-17 cm, blooms for two weeks;

– Bismarck- early variety, pale purple flowers with a brighter longitudinal stripe, height - 22-25 cm, blooms for two weeks;

Pink hyacinths:

– Moreno- early variety, pink-crimson flowers with a dark stripe, peduncle height - 20-23 cm, blooms for 13-18 days;

– Anna Marie- medium-flowering hyacinth with an arrow height of 20-25 cm, blooms for 15-17 days with pale pink flowers;

– Gertruda- late variety, dark pink flowers on a peduncle 23-25 ​​cm high, blooms for 13-15 days;

Red hyacinths:

– Hollyhock- late terry variety of red-crimson color. Peduncle height 20-22 cm, blooms 15-18 days;

– La Victoire- early variety, brilliant red-pink flowers on a stem 20-25 cm high, blooms for 11-12 days;

– Tubcrgen's Scarlet- a medium-flowering hyacinth of bright red color, sometimes a double peduncle 20-22 cm high, blooms a little longer than two weeks;

White hyacinths:

– Arentine Arendsen- an early variety of white, sometimes cream-colored, flowering period of 15-18 days, height - 21-22 cm;

– Snow Crystal- late hyacinth, white, double flowers, bloom 13-18 days, stem height - 25-28 cm;

– Madame Sophie- medium-flowering variety, white, double flowers, stem height 19-23 cm, blooms 13-15 days;

Yellow and orange hyacinths:

– Yellow Hammer- medium-flowering variety of bright yellow color, fading by the end of flowering, arrow height - 23-25cm, flowering period 13-15 days;

– City of Haarlem- late variety, flowers of a light yellow hue, by the end of flowering - light cream. Peduncle - 25-27 cm, blooms 15-17 days;

– Oranje Boven- medium-flowering salmon-apricot hyacinth, dark pink along the edges, height - 22-24cm, blooms for two weeks.

As a rule, blue varieties bloom first, then white, pink, red, lilac. Yellow and orange varieties of hyacinths bloom later than all the others.

Growing hyacinths - features

Each plant has its own requirements in agricultural technology. The hyacinth flower is a capricious plant, and a florist who decides to decorate his garden with these flowers must know how to properly care for hyacinths. For a hyacinth lover, the following features are a must-know:

- the soil for hyacinths should be neutral and consist in equal parts of leafy and soddy soil with the addition of baking powder. If the soil on the site is acidic, it needs liming, sand will have to be added to the clay soil;

- good drainage is very important, because the hyacinth flower does not tolerate waterlogging;

- the lighting should be bright, but hyacinths do not tolerate an excess of direct sunlight;

- the site should be protected from strong winds, so many flower growers prefer to plant hyacinths near shrubs and trees;

- do not use fresh organic matter as fertilizer for hyacinths.

Planting hyacinths in open ground

When to plant hyacinths.

Planting hyacinths in the ground is carried out in late September or early October. With an earlier planting, hyacinths can quickly start growing and die during the winter cold, and with a later planting, hyacinths may not have time to take root before frost. You need to prepare the soil for planting hyacinths in advance: dig the soil to a depth of 30-40 cm, apply mineral fertilizers (approximately 70 g of superphosphate, 15 g of magnesium sulfate, 30 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m ?), three to four years of humus or rotten compost at the rate 10-15 kg per 1 m². If necessary (depending on the composition of the soil), also add sand or peat. If the soil is sandy, then the amount of magnesium and potassium fertilizers should be increased by one and a half times. Nitrogen fertilizers are best applied in spring and summer as top dressing.

Planting hyacinths in autumn.

As already mentioned, it is necessary to plant hyacinth flowers in open ground in September-October. Flower growers recommend choosing not very large bulbs for planting, but medium ones, the so-called flower beds, which will give flower stalks more resistant to bad weather. The bulbs are sorted out, soft, diseased and damaged are discarded. Before planting the bulbs, they are kept in a fungicide solution for half an hour.

The planting depth of hyacinth bulbs from the bottom is 15-18 cm (for bulbs with a diameter of approximately 5 cm), the distance between them is 15 cm, and between rows is 20 cm. Smaller bulbs and babies are planted thicker and not so deep. The hyacinth flower grows well in open ground if planted in a “sand shirt”: a layer of pure river sand 3-5 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the hole or furrow, the bulb is slightly pressed into it, covered with sand, and then with soil. This method of planting does not allow water to stagnate in the soil, therefore, the risk of bulb rot is reduced. After planting the bulbs, if the ground is dry, water the area.

Planting hyacinths in spring.

Hyacinth flower is not planted in spring.

Care for hyacinths in the open field

How to care for hyacinths in the garden.

So, how to care for hyacinth? Caring for hyacinths is not difficult, but the requirements for agricultural technology must be strictly followed. Firstly, hyacinth is clean, therefore weed control on a site with hyacinths - a mandatory rule. In addition, the plant needs constant loosening of the soil. If you want to make your work easier and at the same time protect the soil from drying out, and hyacinth from weeds and diseases, mulch the soil after planting. Concerning glaze, then it is necessary in a dry season: an earthen ball should get wet 15-20 cm deep.

Hyacinth care also includes mandatory feeding. Feeding hyacinths carried out 2-3 times during the growing season. Fertilizers are applied both in dry form and in the form of solutions, but a little less fertilizer is put into the solution than with dry top dressing, and the soil is watered before liquid top dressing. Dry fertilizers are scattered on the ground and then buried in the soil with a chopper. The first time fertilizers are applied at the very beginning of growth (15-20 g of superphosphate and 20-25 g of saltpeter per 1 m ?), the second time they are fed during the budding period (15-20 g of potassium sulfate and 30-35 g of superphosphate), the third top dressing is carried out when the flowering of hyacinths is completed (30-35 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate each).

Hyacinth transplant.

Transplanting hyacinth flowers is easy: in the summer, you dig up the hyacinth bulbs after flowering, store them until the fall, and transplant them elsewhere in the fall. When to dig up hyacinths? About two months after the end of flowering, when the bulbs regain strength after this year's growing season.

Propagation of hyacinths.

Hyacinths are propagated by baby bulbs and seeds. For those who are engaged in plant breeding, the seed method is more suitable than others: in the fall, at the end of September, the seeds are sown in boxes with soil consisting in a ratio of 1: 1: 2 of sand, leafy soil and humus, and grown for two years in cold greenhouse, but seedlings almost never repeat the signs of parent plants, so amateur growers prefer the vegetative method of reproduction. True, the growth of children in hyacinth bulbs is slow: every year 1-3 children grow. If they are easily separated from the mother bulb, they are planted and grown, and if the children do not separate, then the mother bulb is planted along with the children.

In industrial floriculture, artificial methods of reproduction are used, such as cutting and cutting the bottom: cuts are made on the bottom with a sharp sterile tool, or it is generally cut out so that the bulbs form new babies during further storage in a special way. Sometimes the result is stunning - up to forty babies on one bulb. If you are interested in these methods, you can learn about them in detail in the book "Propagation of Plants" by F. McMillan Brose.

Diseases and pests of hyacinths.

Hyacinth flowers do not suffer from excessive soreness, but if trouble has already happened and they get sick, then here is a list of reasons:

• – acquisition of already infected planting material;
• – too heavy acidic soil;
• - you used fresh organic matter as a fertilizer;
• - unfavorable predecessors;
• - looked at the spoiled onion during rejection;
• - neglected preventive disinfection of bulbs before planting;
• - Hyacinths were planted very densely.

Most often, hyacinths are affected by yellow bacterial rot (a bacterial disease), which turns the bulbs into foul-smelling mucus. The first symptoms are stunting, spots and stripes on the peduncle and leaves. Affected plants should be dug up and burned, and the hole should be etched with bleach. Penicillary rot (fungal disease) is expressed in the fact that all above-ground parts are covered with plaque (the product of sporulation of the fungus) and rot, the flowers dry. They fight the fungus by spraying with copper-containing preparations.



Of the pests, flower flies cause trouble for hyacinths, whose larvae eat the bottom of the bulb. Destroy them with the preparations "Fly Eater", "Aktara", "Tabazol". The bear, which feeds on the underground organs of plants, as well as the root onion mite, also harms, and the best way to deal with them is soil mulching.

Sometimes this happens with hyacinths: the inflorescence, not having time to appear from the outlet, falls out of it. The reason for this phenomenon is not a disease, but an excess of moisture in the soil, too early planting or storage at too low a temperature.

Hyacinths after flowering

Hyacinths have faded - what to do?

Caring for hyacinths after flowering is to give their bulbs the opportunity to restore their strength. To do this, they must still be in the ground for some time. How to care for fading hyacinths? It is only necessary to gradually reduce watering until it stops completely. In addition, this period is the third top dressing with mineral fertilizers, which will add nutrients to the bulbs for flowering next year. When it's time to dig up hyacinths after flowering, their yellowed leaves will tell you.



Dig up hyacinths.

Hyacinth bulbs should dig annually, otherwise next year the flowering may be much poorer, in addition, the risk of bulb disease increases. Annual digging also allows you to control the condition of the bulbs and the timely separation of babies for growing. Don't wait for the leaves to die and fall off, because it will be difficult to locate the bulb later. They dig the bulbs with a shovel, since they sit quite deep in the ground, wash them in running water, pickle them for half an hour in a three to four percent solution of karbofos, or stand for 10 minutes in water heated to 50 ° C. Then they are aired and dried in a dark place at 20 ? C for a week.

Storing hyacinth bulbs

The most crucial period is coming, because at this time an inflorescence is formed in the bulb. Dried bulbs are cleaned of the remnants of roots and scales, divided into parsing and laid out in boxes, preferably in one layer. It is better not to separate a small baby. If there are not very many onions, they can be stored in paper bags with signed labels glued to them.



Storage is carried out in two stages: the first two months, the bulbs are stored at a temperature of 25-26? C, and the third - at 17? C with not very low humidity, so that the bulbs do not dry out. It is possible to shorten the first stage by a week by creating a temperature of 30 ° C during the first seven days of storage. The room must be well ventilated. And before the autumn planting, it would be nice to hold the bulbs for a week at a temperature close to that in the garden. During storage, bulbs often form many small babies, so be very careful when planting them in the fall in the ground.

Perennial hyacinth: popular varieties and their cultivation

Rare primroses can be compared in beauty and originality with perennial hyacinth flowers - these "curly" inflorescences on strong, although not tall peduncles are good both for individual forcing and in groups. Most plants can envy the number of legends about the hyacinth flower, because this culture was named after the son of the king of Sparta, and who, if not the ancient Greeks, were famous for writing the most beautiful myths! You will receive a description of the flowers of hyacinths of the most revered varieties, as well as detailed recommendations for their cultivation in this material.

The legend of the hyacinth and what the flower looks like (with photo)

Already in ancient times, people admired the porcelain hyacinth inflorescences, made legends about it. Translated from Greek, "hyacinth" means "flower of the rain." The Greeks considered it also a flower of sorrow in memory of Hyacinth. The young son of the Spartan king Hyacinth overshadowed the beauty and dexterity of the Olympic gods. The young man was patronized by Apollo and Zephyr - the god of the south wind. They often descended from Mount Olympus to the beautiful young man and spent time with him, having fun hunting or sports. Once Apollo and Hyacinth began to throw the discus. Higher and higher the bronze projectile flew up, but it was impossible to determine the winner - Hyacinth was in no way inferior to God. With the last of his strength, Apollo threw the disk under the very clouds. Zephyr, fearing the defeat of his friend, blew so hard that the disk changed direction of flight and unexpectedly hit Hyacinth in the face. The wound was fatal. The death of the young man greatly saddened Apollo, and he turned the drops of his blood into beautiful flowers. In ancient Greece, there was even a cult of Hyacinth, who later
crowded by the cult of Apollo. Hyacinth was considered a symbol of dying and resurgent nature.

To begin with, a general characteristic of what a hyacinth flower looks like is a perennial corm plant of the lily family. Fragrant flowers resemble bells in shape with six bent petals. They are collected in a racemose inflorescence, in which there can be from 12 to 45 flowers. There are varieties with double flowers.

As you can see in the photo of flowers, hyacinths come in a wide variety of colors - blue, lilac, pink, red, white, yellow and orange:

The peduncle is leafless, erect, 15 to 45 cm high. Broad-linear leaves 25-30 cm long are collected in a basal rosette. The spherical bulb consists of 15-20 succulent storage scales, tightly adjacent to each other. They are located on a shortened stem - the bottom. Outside, the bulb is covered with dry covering scales. There is a certain relationship between the color of flowers and bulbs. Thus, varieties with blue, blue and purple flowers usually have bulbs with purple outer scales. White-flowered hyacinths have bulbs with light gray integumentary scales, while red-flowered hyacinths have dark cherry ones. Plants with yellow flowers have greyish-cream bulbs, while those with pink flowers have lilac bulbs.

The most widespread are the Dutch hybrids of hyacinth orientalis. They are characterized by dense inflorescences of various colors - from white to intense purple. Peduncle 25-30 cm high. Suitable for group plantings in flower beds or in containers.

Dutch hybrids are distinguished by color, as well as flowering time.

There is also a group of Roman hyacinths. They have smaller and loosely sitting on a short peduncle (15 cm high) white, pink or blue flowers. Mainly used for forcing.

Many-flowered hyacinths throw out several peduncles, the flowers are loosely arranged and have a white, pink or blue color. They are suitable for forcing and growing outdoors. Multi-flowered hyacinths, like Roman hyacinths, bloom earlier than Dutch hybrids.

The last group is miniature hyacinths, or cintells. Represented by miniature (12-15 cm high) forms of popular varieties of Dutch hybrids, such as Delft Blue, Jan Bos, Lady Derby, City of Harlem, Lord Balfour.

Popular varieties of blue and lilac hyacinths

Blue varieties of hyacinths:

"Bismarck". The flowers are pale purple with a darker longitudinal stripe, large - up to 4 cm in diameter, on long (up to 2.5 cm) pedicels. The inflorescence is broadly conical, 12 cm high and 9 cm in diameter. The inflorescence has 20-25 flowers. This one of the most popular varieties of hyacinths has a cetonos up to 25 cm tall. One of the best varieties for open ground. Early flowering. Suitable for early forcing.

Delft Blue. The flowers are blue, large - up to 4 cm in diameter. The inflorescence is dense, wide, 10-12 cm high and up to 9 cm in diameter. There are 25-37 flowers in the inflorescence. The height of the peduncle of this variety of hyacinths is up to 25 cm. It is recommended for gardening, cutting, forcing.

"Ostara". The flowers are blue with a barely noticeable darker stripe. The height of the peduncle is 20-24 cm. The inflorescence is dense, 12 cm high and 5 cm in diameter. An early flowering universal variety.

Look at the photo, what blue hyacinths look like:

Lilac varieties of hyacinths:

"Amethyst". The flowers are lilac, more intensely colored along the edges, large, up to 4 cm in diameter. The inflorescence is dense up to 15 cm high and up to 8 cm in diameter, consists of 25-30 flowers. The height of the peduncle is up to 24 cm. Mid-late. Very good for ground planting and cutting, can be used for medium forcing.

"Lord Balfour". The flowers are lilac with a dark lilac clearly defined longitudinal stripe, along the edges of the flowers have a darker color. Flowers up to 4 cm in diameter. Cylindrical inflorescence 12 cm high and up to 7 cm in diameter, consists of 20 flowers. Peduncle up to 24 cm high. Early flowering. In the group of lilac varieties is considered the best. Suitable for open ground, cutting and early forcing.

White and pink varieties of hyacinth flowers (with photo)

White varieties of hyacinths:

"Innosance". The flowers are snow-white with a diameter of up to 4 cm, the petals are open, wide. The inflorescence consists of 20-25 flowers, cylindrical, up to 12 cm high and up to 7 cm in diameter. Peduncle up to 25 cm tall. Early flowering. One of the most popular all-purpose varieties: used for open ground, early forcing and cutting.

"Carnegie". The flowers are white, up to 4 cm in diameter, collected in a dense cylindrical inflorescence, 10 cm high and 5 cm in diameter. The number of flowers in the inflorescence is 20-25. The height of the peduncle is up to 22 cm. Medium blooming. One of the best varieties for outdoor cultivation, cutting and forcing.

Here you can see photos of white hyacinths, which are distinguished by their special beauty:

Pink varieties of hyacinths:

"Anna Marie". The flowers are pink with a darker longitudinal stripe. The inflorescence consists of 30-35 flowers. Peduncle height up to 25 cm. Early flowering. This pink hyacinth flower is recommended for flower arrangement in the ground and early forcing.

"Lady Derby". The flowers are light pink, matte, with a darker stripe, 3-4 cm in diameter.

Pay attention to the photo - this pink hyacinth has 23-25 ​​flowers in the inflorescence, cylindrical in shape:

Plant height 11 cm and a diameter of 5 cm. Peduncle up to 22 cm high. Medium flowering period. Used for open ground, cutting and forcing.

"Pink Pearl". The flowers are intense pink with a darker longitudinal stripe. The inflorescence consists of 20-22 flowers. Peduncle up to 23 cm high. Mid-early flowering period. Used in landscaping, for cutting and early forcing.

Red, yellow and orange varieties of hyacinths

Red varieties of hyacinths:

"La Victoire". Flowers raspberry-pink, glossy. The height of the flower arrow is up to 25 cm. Mid-early. Recommended for early forcing, ground planting and cutting.

Jan Bos. Flowers up to 3 cm in diameter, bright magenta-red color, lighter at the edges, with a whitish throat. In inflorescence 25-30 flowers. It is dense, small, round-conical, up to 10 cm high and up to 5.5 cm in diameter. Peduncle 16-18 cm high. Early flowering. The appearance of a second inflorescence is characteristic, which increases the duration of flowering. Very good for early forcing.

Yellow and orange varieties of hyacinths:

Gypsy Queen. The flowers are orange, collected in a dense inflorescence (of 20-25 flowers) of a cylindrical shape. Peduncle up to 22 cm. Medium blooming. Used for outdoor cultivation and forcing.

City of Harlem. The flowers are light yellow, by the end of flowering - pale cream. The inflorescence is dense, cylindrical in shape, consists of 20-25 flowers. Peduncle 25-27 cm high. Medium flowering period. Recommended for flower decoration in the ground, forcing and cutting.

Below are photos of the varieties of hyacinths most often grown in household plots:

Conditions for growing hyacinths in open ground: planting and care

For planting hyacinths in open ground, choose flat areas with good drainage and low standing groundwater, since even a slight stagnant water can lead to disease and death of the bulbs. These plants are early flowering plants, so they can be planted between trees and shrubs. In order to create ideal growing conditions for hyacinths in the southern regions, it is recommended to provide a little shade during the midday hours, because in full sun the plants fade faster, and some varieties may also discolour.

For growing hyacinths in open ground, cultivated light sandy loamy soils rich in humus with a neutral reaction are most suitable. Loamy soils are improved by adding humus and sand, and acidic soils must be limed. Before planting hyacinth flowers, the soil begins to be prepared 1.5-2 months in advance. A bucket of humus, 100 g of ash, 60 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium sulfate are added per 1 m2, combined fertilizer (25-30 g) can be used. Then the soil is dug up to a depth of 30-40 cm.

Most flower growers grow hyacinths in beds 15-20 cm high and 1-1.2 m wide, which protects the bulbs from decay in rainy weather. Every 20 cm, transverse grooves are made 20 cm deep, coarse sand with ash is poured into the bottom of them to improve drainage and protect the bottom from decay. Large bulbs are stirred after 12-15 cm to a depth of 15-20 cm and covered with a mixture of sand, ash and earth. Small bulbs and a baby are planted at a distance of 5-6 cm from each other to a depth of 5-8 cm. After planting, the ridges are mulched.

Bulbs are planted in autumn when the soil temperature reaches 8-9 °C. Such soil temperature and sufficient moisture are necessary for good rooting. In the middle lane, bulbs are usually planted in the second half of September, and in more southern regions - in October. After planting hyacinths when caring for bulbs in the open field, after 2-3 weeks, when the plants take root, you can give liquid top dressing with complex mineral fertilizer (20 g / m2). With the onset of frost, plantings are covered with foliage or spruce spruce branches with a layer of 10-15 cm. When snow falls, the ridges are covered with snow. When growing hyacinth flowers, it is recommended to change the planting site annually. Hyacinths return to their original place after 5-6 years.

How to care for hyacinths: feeding and watering

And now it's time to learn how to care for hyacinth flowers during the growing season. There is nothing complicated here: you need to remove the shelter immediately after the snow melts, regularly loosen, weed, discard diseased plants, water and fertilize. Although hyacinths come from warm countries, their resistance to cold during the spring development is surprising. They come out from under the snow in early spring already with buds. They can tolerate frosts down to -10 °C. Plants are insensitive to sharp daily temperature fluctuations.

During the growing season, hyacinths are fertilized three times: the first fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizer is especially important - 15 g per bucket of water per 1 m2. It is carried out when the plants reach a height of 5-6 cm. The second top dressing is during the budding period at the rate of 20-25 g of complex fertilizer per 1 m2. Plants respond well to top dressing with infusion of bird droppings or enzymatic herbal slurry. The third time hyacinths are fed at the end of flowering - superphosphate and potassium sulfate, 20-25 g per 1 m2. Nitrogen is not included in the third top dressing. Together with superphosphate, wood ash can be added.

Since hyacinths are salt-tolerant plants, some flower growers are limited to one top dressing in the budding phase: 70-80 g of complete mineral fertilizer per 1 m2. It is better to use a nitroammofoska containing an equal amount of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

In the process of caring for hyacinths, do not forget to water them. In dry weather, watering is required after 2-3 days. Hyacinths are especially demanding on moisture during flowering. Watering continues after flowering - until the leaves begin to turn yellow.

Reproduction of hyacinths by bulbs (with video)

Hyacinth bulbs should be dug up annually, since a certain amount of temperatures is required to lay the next year's inflorescence. If the bulbs are left in the ground, then next year the buds will be small, green, underdeveloped. In the south of Russia, digging is carried out in mid-June, in the middle lane - in the second half of July, when the leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out, but have not yet separated from the bulb. Dug out bulbs are dried for 2-3 days in the shade in the open air. Then the earth is shaken off from them, carefully cleaned of roots, remnants of leaves and peduncles, sick and damaged are discarded. Before planting, the bulbs are stored at a temperature of 20-25 ° C.

The main method of propagation of hyacinths, like most bulbous ones, is vegetative (by daughter baby bulbs), and propagation by seeds is used for breeding purposes. But the coefficient of natural reproduction in hyacinths is low. During one growing season, 1-3 babies are usually obtained from a large bulb (depending on the variety), and bulbs with a diameter of less than 5 cm do not form a baby at all. This prevents the wide distribution of hyacinths in culture.

Propagation of hyacinths by bulbs is carried out in the fall, and after rooting, top dressing is applied to the soil.

Back in the 18th century Dutch flower growers noticed that the bulbs with the bottom damaged by mice form a large number of small daughter bulbs. Since then, bottom cutting (partial and then complete) has been used to accelerate the reproduction of hyacinths.

There are many ways to artificially propagate hyacinths: cruciform and annular incisions of the bottom, complete cutting of the bottom, isolation of the central bud, getting babies from individual scales and even from leaf blades, heating the bulbs.

The video "Reproduction of hyacinths" will help you understand how to make incisions on the bulb correctly:


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On March 8, it is nice to receive flowers, and it is more pleasant to receive flowers grown on your own as a gift. For my mother and girlfriend, I decided to grow their favorite hyacinths. And it’s good that this decision came in advance, because this procedure is not fast. In this article I will tell you how I did it.

Hyacinth (Hyacinthus) is a bulbous plant. It can be safely grown both in the garden and on the windowsill. Those who want to enjoy the beauty of hyacinth at any time of the year prefer to plant it on the windowsill. But for successful growth, the flower will need suitable conditions and proper care.

Hyacinth (also found a variant of the name Geocinia) is a member of the asparagus family. It is very popular among flower growers due to its extraordinarily beautiful bright colors.

They resemble small bells and are located on a racemose peduncle. Flowers are usually monochromatic. White, blue, purple, blue, pink or yellow colors predominate.

Hyacinth has 5-8 fleshy and smooth leaves. They grow in the form of a rosette, and a peduncle appears from the rosette. The maximum height of the plant is 30 cm. When flowering, the flowers exude a pleasant and unobtrusive aroma.

When the flower finishes blooming, the leaves begin to die. Then a new bud will appear on the bulb, from which a new peduncle will appear.

Hyacinth care is not that difficult. Observing all the conditions, a bright flowering miracle will delight you for a long time.

Growing conditions

What conditions will be created for the plant, so it will grow and develop. For home breeding hyacinth, the following conditions are necessary:

Temperature regime

During rooting, the recommended temperature is not more than 5 ° C. When the first shoots appear, the room temperature should be raised to 12 ° C. When the buds appear, the flower is placed in a place where it will constantly grow. Here you need to maintain a strictly defined temperature level of 18 ° C.

For hyacinth, drafts and sudden changes in temperature are unacceptable. This will harm growth and flowering.

Hyacinth is a moisture-loving plant. The soil must always be kept moist. Humidity should be at the required level.

Lighting

After planting the bulbs in the ground, the pot is cleaned in complete darkness for 2 months. After a while, when the stems already appear, the pot can be placed in the shade or partial shade.

With the advent of buds, the pot is placed where there is a lot of light. It is recommended to periodically turn the plant in different directions so that the development proceeds uniformly.

In cloudy weather, as well as on short daylight hours, additional lighting can be used.

It is necessary to remove the plant for a while in a dark place so that later its development takes place harmoniously. If you get it out of a dark place earlier than it should be, it may still be weak and will not grow well. Overexposure is also harmful. All forces will go into the foliage, and the buds will form very slowly.

preparing the ground

Fertile soil is very important for hyacinth. It should be neutral in acidity and have a lot of organic matter. A peat-sand substrate is also suitable.

There must be a drainage layer at the bottom. To create it, ordinary moss is well suited. Thanks to him, the soil will become more loose and moisture-intensive.

Growing Rules

In order for the hyacinth to please with its flowering and fragrant appearance, some rules for its proper cultivation are important.

Cooking bulbs

To grow a strong and strong plant, you need to select planting material. Experienced flower growers advise planting bulbs at least 5 cm in diameter. Only from such can full-fledged flowers grow. Also inspect each copy for rot and other defects. Just before landing, treat with a disinfectant.

Landing features

• It is recommended to plant 1 - 3 bulbs in a pot;
• Bulbs should be close to each other, at a distance of no more than 2 cm.
• Lay drainage at the bottom, then pour in the soil with the addition of sand;
• Arrange the bulbs and push in lightly, but their tops should remain above the ground.

Watering

The earth in a hyacinth pot should be moist, but the plant will not tolerate stagnant water. This usually results in root rot.

To maintain an optimal level of humidity, the pot has drainage, and the rest of the water remaining after watering should be drained. The process of watering is treated carefully and carefully so that water only falls on the ground.

top dressing

Since hyacinth absorbs soil nutrients well, and the earth is quickly depleted, it is worth periodically fertilizing.

For better preservation of the bulbs, while they are in a dormant state, they are sprayed with a weak solution of fertilizers with a high content of potassium and phosphorus.

When the hyacinth blooms, it is fed every 2 weeks to stimulate growth.

Distillation

In order for your "handsome" to bloom by a certain time, for example, for any holiday, you can carry out the so-called forcing. There are 3 types of distillation of hyacinths:

1. Early - flowering begins by the end of the year, for this, planting is carried out in October;
2. Medium - will bloom by the end of January-beginning of February, planting in November;
3. Late - will bloom in March-April, landing in December.

For successful forcing, the bulbs are prepared by leaving them for every 2 weeks in rooms where the temperature drops. After digging the bulbs out of the soil, store them for 14 days in a warm and humid room at 28-30 o C. Then 22-25 o C for 2 weeks. Then 15-17 o C. After these 6 weeks, the bulbs can be planted.

Remember that hyacinth does not bloom for several years in a row, especially after forcing. In order for the plant to rest, you need to plant it for 1-2 seasons in open ground.

What to do when flowering ends

To prolong the life of a faded hyacinth, the peduncle is cut off. Fertilize and water at this time is not advised. For some time, the main bulb will be restored and daughter ones will form.

After the entire aerial part of the bulb has dried, it must be removed from the soil, the remaining leaves removed and dried for 2-3 days. Next, plant the main old bulb in the garden, and new young shoots in a new pot.

reproduction

Hyacinth propagates with the help of children. They emerge from the parent bulb. For 1 year under natural conditions, up to 4 new shoots grow from one copy.

In order not to wait for children for a whole year, they use an artificial method. It consists in cutting and notching the bottom. Thanks to this, more children are formed.

Before this procedure, it is important to disinfect the bulbs. They are treated with potassium permanganate (1% solution) and dried for several days.

bottom cutting

This procedure is carried out during the period when the bulb has rested.

• Cut the bottom with a teaspoon;
• Put them in a container cut up;
• The air temperature is not lower than 21 ° C;
• After 60-90 days, babies will begin to form, about 20-40 pieces;
• Plant the bulb with shoots in a cool, closed container so that the children begin to grow and give the first leaves;
• After the growing season, pull out the bulb, separate the sprouts and plant to grow.

Such bulbs will bloom after 3 years.

bottom notching

This method is similar to cutting. Several 5 mm incisions are made in the bottom. The next steps are exactly the same. So the number of children will be less (7-15 pieces), but they will be stronger and stronger. The growing period will be approximately 2-3 years.

Pests and diseases

Although the hyacinth is very resistant to diseases and pests, they can still find a weak spot in the plant and infect it.

• Bacterial rot - the symptoms of infection are very different, including rotting or drying of the roots, black spots, etc. You can't deal with this disease on your own. The only solution is to destroy the plant with soil, and disinfect the pot.
• Insects are harmful, especially spider mites, aphids, etc. Insecticides are used to destroy them, but they cannot be used when the plant is flowering.

Growing hyacinths at home is not so easy, but there are no outrageous difficulties either. With a properly built system for the care and cultivation of flowers, you will get gorgeous flowering plants with a pleasant and delicate aroma.

Hyacinth- a wonderful perennial. Suitable for growing in open soil, indoors, for decorating bouquets. It can decorate miniature bouquets, be used as a decor for flower arrangements. This representative of the flora is one of the first to bloom. Starts its growing season at the beginning of the season.

Professional and novice flower growers are pleased with the help of magnificent fragrant flowers. Most subspecies of the plant are perennials. Only 2% of all existing varieties do not tolerate the harsh winters of the country. Latin name of the plant: Hyacinthus. In the common people, this representative of the flora is called "rain flower"

Photo

Story

Hyacinth native to Asia. It first appeared during the Roman Empire. In the 16th century, sailors brought the seeds of this representative of the flora to their homeland. The plant has taken root perfectly in the humid and mild climate of Holland. It fell in love with rich merchants for its unusual fragrant aroma. The plant immediately gained wide popularity. In the 17th century, new subspecies of the plant appeared. And by the 18th century, Hyacinth had more than 2,000 different varieties.

All plants had magnificent fragrant flowers, which differed in shade. An excellent color scheme has been developed. There were both ordinary flowers and plants with double leaves. Some of them even had several main peduncles. To date, the main suppliers of seeds and other planting material are Holland and England.

general description

Depending on subspecies The height of Hyacinths reaches 20-60 cm. It has narrowed linear leaves growing just above the root system.

The peduncle of the plant is leafless, very fleshy, elongated. Flowers grow from it, formed into a spike-shaped inflorescence - the sultan.

Hyacinth leaves are elongated, juicy, emerald. They have a grooved shape. In length reach from 15 to 20 cm. No more than 4-8 narrowed leaves grow on one plant. The flowers have single row stamens. The fruits are three-celled capsules. Bulbs are formed in the form of a wide cone.

Important! This representative of the flora is ephemeroid. It has a short growing season, which falls at the beginning of spring.

Spring period

In early spring, the first leaves of this wonderful plant appear from the soil. They are a wide and thick tube with a sharp end. In such a tube, a compacted inflorescence of an emerald hue is formed. The leaves of the flower are frame-shaped, glossy, emerald, very bright. Periodically, they may open.

In the same period, a racemose inflorescence is formed and gaining a bright shade. After the full opening of the flowers, a dense and thick peduncle begins to rise. At this time, he does not have leaves on his trunk. Miniature leaves begin to form later. Hyacinth begins to reach for the sun. The plant reaches a height of 25-30 cm. Possesses dense forming flowers.

Bloom

All subspecies of Hyacinths delight beginners and professional flower growers with excellent colors. Flowers can be snow-white, amber, pink, lilac, purple and black.

The plant Hyacinth inflorescence contains at least 30 flowers. They can be tubular, bell-shaped or funnel-shaped.

The Hyacinth bulb, from which the bole grows, consists of fleshy lower leaves. A flowering stem grows from the trunk. It is a continuation of the bottom - a shortened trunk.

After flowering, the main branch, the leaves dry up and die. A bud is formed on the top leaf inside the bulb. Gradually, it becomes a new bulb, which begins to grow the next year with the advent of heat.

A new peduncle is laid in the kidney. The following year, the plant blooms again and pleases the grower with its wonderful aroma. Sometimes a young bulb can produce several shoots that need to be planted in autumn. Such bulbs are a full-fledged planting material. And next year they can also bloom, like the main buds.

After flowering, a three-nested box is always formed. It contains seeds. The box has a fragile skin. In strong winds, it breaks. Hyacinth seeds fall on new areas of soil, take root and grow.

On the left in the photo are Hyacinth seeds.

Spreading

In the wild, the plant grows in Asia. Prefers Mediterranean coasts. Also grows in Australia. Prefers rocky terrain in this area. Grown in England, Holland, China, Japan, Korea. In the Russian Federation, it grows in private garden plots. Sometimes the plant can be found in botanical gardens, greenhouses or flower shows.

Hyacinth is great for decorating flower beds and flower arrangements. Patterns, symbols, figures and even words are made from Hyacinth. That's why Hyacinth is one of the main plants used in landscape design.

The flower prefers light, breathable soil. Loves soil, which consists of coarse-grained sea sand, humus and black soil. Prefers soils that easily pass water. The soil of the plant should be neutral or slightly acidic.

plant species

Hyacinth includes several varieties. All varieties have a wonderful fragrant aroma. They differ in the shade of flowers, terry, leaf width and growing conditions.

It is considered the main subspecies. It is formed in the form of leaf-shaped rosettes. Grows on the surface of water bodies. Stays on the water with a porous fabric.

Another main subspecies is considered. It is a miniature bulbous plant. Its flowers are barrel-shaped. Formed in the form of a dense multi-flowered brush of blue or purple hue. Hyacinth also includes the following subspecies: Vostochny, Litvinova, Transcaspian, Arendsen, Linnosans, Carnegie, Edelweiss, Anna Marie, Pink Purple, Fondant and others.

Care

The Hyacinth plant is grown outdoors. Likes fresh air. Therefore, when breeding Hyacinth at room conditions, it is necessary for it to provide conditions close to natural.

Hyacinth is a flower that prefers systematic watering with water at room temperature. Responds well to the application of mineral fertilizers. Ornamental Hyacinth loves plenty of sunlight. The growing season starts at 15°C.

Important! In open ground, the plant is planted along with daffodils. Such flowers are perfectly cultivated and complement each other in flower arrangements.

Hyacinth is a beautiful plant with a wonderful floral scent. The smell of hyacinth is gentle, sweetish. Includes several varieties. It is a photophilous plant. Most often grows in well-lit forest clearings. Propagated by seeds and bulbs. Refers to heat-loving flowers. Can be used for cutting and decorating flower bouquets. The main suppliers of the flower are England and Holland.

Useful video

Further on the video: hyacinth flower description, as well as home care features