How are onions propagated? Multi-tiered onions: cultivation, beneficial properties. Condition requirements

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Onions are one of the types of onions that are most common among gardeners. Plants of this species do not form underground bulbs; they are used as fresh herbs. The most popular are perennial onions, which can grow in one place for up to 10 years.

Planting onions

It is best to start preparing the soil in the fall. The soil needs to be dug up to a depth of about 20 cm and rotted manure or compost added. It is not recommended to apply fresh manure as it can cause disease because it may contain weed seeds that are not easy to remove. In case of high acidity of the soil, you need to add lime to get a good harvest. But it should be taken into account that it is impossible to apply both manure and lime at the same time, because the amount of nitrogen will decrease. You can replace lime with dolomite flour or wood ash.

With the arrival of spring, you need to fertilize the soil with minerals, but not immediately, but in several passes, because... high concentration of salts negatively affects the crop. Half of the mineral fertilizer should be applied when digging before planting, and the rest can be distributed over 2-3 feedings during the growing season.

Preparation of planting material

If the seedlings are purchased, they are dried before planting. To do this, you need to scatter it in a small layer in a warm room. If the seed is grown independently, it is heated to begin the growth process. It is recommended to warm it up in several stages: half a month at 20°C, and then about 10 hours at 30°C. Warming up the sets is carried out in order to activate growth and to prevent the onion from bolting in the future. It is important to ensure that the sets do not overheat, because... its germination will be significantly impaired.

If gradual warming up does not work, right before planting, the seedlings should be filled with hot water (45°C) for 15 minutes, then cooled with cold water. After heating, it is effective to treat with Zircon, Humisol or Rostom-1, which stimulate the growth of onions. The last thing to do before planting is to disinfect the seedlings with copper sulfate or potassium permanganate.

Landing

Weather conditions greatly influence planting time. If spring has come early, you need to plant the seedlings in third ten days of April, and in the case of a prolonged cold spring, wait until the soil warms up by 7-8 cm. If the soil temperature is below 12°C, you should not plant onions, because he will go into the arrow. But it is not advisable to be late with planting, especially in a dry and warm spring, because... The feather will begin to develop first, and the root will lag behind in development. As a result, the greens will not be able to germinate normally, and the bulbs that have already formed will remain small. You need to plant seedlings in the beds in rows, sorting them by size in advance. Small sets (up to 1 cm) are planted at a distance of 4-5 cm, sets with a diameter of up to 1.5 cm - at a distance of 6-8 cm; large sets (2 cm) - 8-10 cm.

It is recommended to make rows at a distance of 20 cm to make processing easier, as well as for good ventilation. Having placed the seedling in the ground, it needs to be pressed down with earth and covered with a layer of mulch of about 3 cm. After 6-7 days, most often the first shoots appear.

Onion care

Caring for onions includes loosening the soil, regular watering, weeding, fertilizing, treatment against diseases and insects, and timely harvesting.

Loosening

It is necessary to loosen the soil before germination, because During this period, a dense earth crust may form. It is recommended to loosen frequently, while simultaneously getting rid of weeds. Loosening is necessary to ensure that the roots of the plant constantly receive oxygen. It is especially important to carry out this procedure after moistening the soil. When the bulbs grow a little, you can rake the soil away from them so that they can grow larger and ripen faster.

Watering

Onions need to be watered regularly, especially in the first half of the growing season. During this time, watering should be done a couple of times a week. If the days are rainy, watering can be reduced. The main thing is that the soil is not dry. In July, when the bulbs begin to ripen, watering should be reduced and stopped altogether a couple of weeks before harvest. In the case of a hot and dry summer, onions need to be watered occasionally at this time so that the bulbs do not linger in growth and do not wither.

Weeding

The onions should not be overgrown with weeds, because... Because of this, the humidity will increase, which will provoke fungal diseases. Moreover, if onions grow in unweeded beds, a thick, juicy neck is formed, which complicates drying the onions in the future and storing them.

Fertilizer application

You need to feed the onions several times. The first is carried out half a month after planting with slurry or bird droppings. You also need to feed the plant after three weeks. If minerals are used as fertilizing, it is recommended to first add nitrogen, for example, ammonium nitrate. In this case, after three weeks you need to add nitrogen and potassium fertilizer.

Minerals are applied in dry form, sprinkling them on the beds before rain or artificial watering. Or dry minerals can be broken into water and watered with this solution.

Treatment against diseases and pests

Onions are a fungicidal plant, but despite this they also get sick and become food for insects, so it is imperative to carry out preventive treatment against fungal diseases and insects.

For processing, you can independently prepare a solution from copper sulfate (1 tsp), liquid soap (1 tbsp) and water (10 l). The onion should be sprayed with the prepared solution after its leaves grow 12-15 cm in length. Also, for preventive purposes, you can dust the onion and soil with wood ash or tobacco dust. After 20 days, the treatment is repeated.

Harvesting

In order for onions to be stored for a long time in the future, they must be collected in a timely manner. Winter onions are usually harvested in July, and spring onions - at the end of summer. When the feather no longer grows, and the old greenery has already dried out and lay down, the bulb is pulled out and inspected. If the husk is dry, bright and tightly covers the bulb, you can harvest. If you are late in harvesting the onions, they will continue to grow and produce greens. It can be eaten, but it is not suitable for storage.

Onion heads should be carefully dug up and, in dry weather, laid out in a row to dry. If the day is rainy, the bulbs are dried under cover. When they are completely dry, they must be carefully cleared of soil so as not to damage the husk. Afterwards, the harvest must be sorted, discarded, bruised, diseased and those without husks. The tails of the selected onions need to be cut to 6 cm. If the tail is not dry enough, the onions will not be stored for long. Then the onion needs to be transferred to a small box or box, and moved to a dry room, the temperature of which is from +5 to 20°C.

Onion propagation

Onions are propagated by seed. In August, arrows with “balls” containing seeds are formed on the plants. When the arrow dries and the seeds turn black, they must be carefully poured for further storage. The seeds are used to obtain a set, from which a full-fledged bulb is formed a year after planting.

Just a few years ago, even the most experienced gardeners looked at this plant with amazement. The multi-tiered bow does look a little strange. On its high arrow, several “floors” high, there are aerial “fruits”. Moreover, there is a pattern: the higher the tiers, the smaller they become. It is for this reason that this vegetable crop has earned its original name. However, it also has other names: “Egyptian”, “viviparous”, “horned”, etc. But many gardeners know it precisely as a multi-tiered onion. Planting and caring for it does not require special knowledge or skills, so it can become a decoration for any garden.

A bit of history

The first information about a form of onion similar in its morphological characteristics to this plant is in an ancient Chinese herbal book of the fourteenth century. It was called "lau-qi-tsun". The Chinese called it a grass that does not form seeds and grows in layers.

Biologists believe that multi-tiered onions, the cultivation of which began in East Asia, came to England in the nineteenth century. And it was from there that his victorious march through the countries of Europe began. True, then this plant was called tree or Egyptian onion. Due to the very strong aroma and pungent taste of its airy “bulbs”, it was already used then in the preparation of marinades of finely chopped vegetables as a seasoning. In Russia, this garden crop appeared much later - at the end of the last century.

Beneficial features

According to experts, the leaves of this onion have excellent phytoncidal properties and can be used as an anti-inflammatory agent. Its green part is very rich in nutrients. Compared to the onion variety, multi-tiered onions contain much more vitamin C and carotene.

Another valuable quality of this original plant is that it does not accumulate nitrates, and is significantly superior in nutritional value even to trumpet. In addition, this species enhances the secretory activity of the intestines and stomach better than others, and is characterized as a pronounced bactericidal and anthelmintic folk remedy.

Description

Belonging to the onion family, this garden plant has a very interesting appearance. Its leaves are wide, tubular, covered with a waxy coating, as a result of which they acquire a bluish tint. They grow up to forty centimeters in length. The tubular arrow ends in an inflorescence, on which aerial bulbs are then formed. The height of the first “link” of the arrow can reach up to a meter. From the first inflorescence a new one grows, which also ends in airy “fruits”.

Thus, on average up to four levels can form on one plant. Aerial bulbs, weighing about one and a half grams, hang in a bouquet on the inflorescences, forming from three to thirty such heads on each. The fruits are covered with a tough skin.

Multi-tiered onions, the varieties of which are few, have not yet received wide recognition in our country, although in their properties, if not superior, then not inferior to other varieties. Meanwhile, this plant is one of the best among those that produce greenery in early spring. It has a very elastic, crispy feather, whereas the batun, for example, is soft and not so juicy.

Bulbs

The multi-tiered variety differs from onion and other perennial varieties of its species in its exotic flower shoot. From two to five “floors” are formed on it, on each of which from three to eight elongated-rounded bulbs grow together in nests. They are dressed in purple, yellow or brown “shirts”.

The inner scales are whitish, with a faint greenish tint. The size of these amazing aerial bulbs gradually decreases from the first to the last tier. The largest of them are located below.

The arrows break under the weight of the harvest, so they need to be tied up. If this is not done, the peduncle may end up on the ground, and the bulbs will sprout in the soil where they fall. This is why a multi-tiered bow is sometimes called a “walking” bow.

Often small white single flowers are formed on long stalks among the heads, but they are sterile.

This plant does not produce seeds; it reproduces only vegetatively or by dividing the bush. By July, its aerial bulbs sprout directly on the bush, since they do not have a dormant period. The underground ones ripen only by September.

Agricultural technology

Multi-tiered onions, planting and caring for which are carried out in almost the same way as, for example, the onion variety, under certain conditions can be grown in one place for up to five years. With proper agricultural practices, each such three-year-old plant can produce up to four kilograms of yield per square meter.

Many gardeners plant multi-layered onions on their greens in early spring. At the end of autumn, its above-ground part almost completely dies off, and in this form it goes to winter. The plant is very frost-resistant: according to experts involved in the breeding of vegetable crops, it is not afraid of even forty-degree cold weather - in the presence of little snow cover and when the soil is severely frozen. True, the plant must already have a fairly developed root system.

However, sudden changes in temperature can be dangerous for this onion, especially in March and April, when, after an early and prolonged thaw, severe frosts suddenly occur again. At the same time, even bulblets hidden under a layer of snow that have fallen from a bush retain their germination even on the very surface of the soil.

Landing

Experienced gardeners, who have already harvested more than once, determine for themselves when to plant multi-tiered onions. When planted in summer, it has time to take root. Having sprouted and formed several leaves, the plant will go to winter and begin to grow back in early spring. If the heads are planted in the ground immediately after they ripen, then you need to take into account one feature of this crop: it will be possible to collect feathers only next year in mid-March. Otherwise, by harvesting the crop in the fall, you can destroy the onion, which in its fragile state will not be able to survive the winter.

Basal bulbs should be planted in a square nesting pattern with a distance of twenty centimeters between them. Multi-tiered onions can be planted more densely if the seedling is small. In this case, the depth of planting in the soil also changes: for large ones - about ten, for others - up to six centimeters.

In this case, each faction must be planted separately, since they differ not only in the type of sowing, but also in the timing of harvesting the feathers.

Some gardeners, already well familiar with the characteristics of this crop, use a more rational option. Having divided the bed into two parts, they plant the heads often on one, and less frequently on the other.

In early spring, from the first part, they harvest the greenery along with the bulbs, pulling out the plantings and thereby thinning out the area, and leave the second part until the summer, so that in June they will already have lush greenery, which will simply need to be cut off. The bulblets obtained from the tiers are immediately placed in the ground. Trimmed stumps will again produce a bountiful harvest, and the planted material will be able to take root and safely overwinter. Apparently, thanks to these features, many people prefer to have multi-tiered onions in their garden.

Growing

This plant is cultivated as both a perennial and an annual crop. It grows best on areas of southern or southwestern slopes that are early cleared of snow cover, on light fertile soils. In general, its cultivation differs little from the agricultural technology of batun, but it also has its own characteristics.

In non-chernozem zones, as a perennial crop, especially in northern and damp lands, the multi-tiered variety grows better on ridges, and as an annual planted in dry areas in the middle and southern regions - on a flat surface. At the same time, preparing the site with its planting scheme is no different from growing trumpet.

Peculiarities

In spring, multi-tiered onions are one of the first to germinate among perennials. Its leaves grow very quickly even with some shade in the area. Experienced gardeners say that growing this plant is not at all difficult. It will feel good on any soil and in any conditions.

Of course, on loose soil, free of weeds, with frequent watering and proper feeding, it will delight you with its harvest, but even in a forgotten far corner of the site it will bear fruit.

By the fifth or sixth year, many new root bulbs are formed, so the planting thickens. In turn, the underground part of the bulbs becomes noticeably smaller. Therefore, the plant is replanted or simply thinned out.

How multi-tiered onions propagate

As is known, this plant does not produce seeds. It reproduces by root or aerial bulbs. The latter take root much faster. It is better to take large material from the first two tiers for planting. In the first year, in the fall, they form two or three daughter bulbs.

The heads for sowing must be mature and have roots or root tubercles at the bottom.

Multi-tiered onions are best propagated using material collected from three- or four-year-old plants. Heads intended for forcing, as well as for winter or spring planting, must be dried and stored at a temperature of about zero degrees.

Care

After the snow melts from the onion bed, you need to remove all dead plant debris. After this, they begin feeding. Typically, by the third or fourth year after planting, beds of multi-tiered onions become too dense. Therefore, in the fall or early spring they are thinned out, leaving one, or maximum two, root heads in each nest. Some people use excess bulbs for food, but they are also excellent as planting material.

A two- or three-year-old bush has the highest yield. In prolonged cool and rainy weather, airy bulbs ripen worse. The leaves grow well and retain their green appearance right up to frost.

In dry, hot weather, aerial bulbs should be collected at the end of July, maximum at the beginning of August, since by this period the arrows, having turned yellow, begin to dry out.

In early spring, it is better to grow multi-tiered onions under film. In this case, greens can be obtained fifteen days earlier than in open ground. Moreover, as experienced gardeners say, it will have a lighter color and a less pungent taste.

Feeding

In early spring, mineral fertilizers must be added to the soil. Potassium chloride, ammonium nitrate and superphosphate are mixed at the rate of ten grams per square meter of area. A month later, fertilizing the bed with onions must be repeated again, not forgetting to loosen the row spacing.

In our country, unfortunately, only one variety of this amazing onion has been released so far: “Odessa Winter 12”.

Onions are grown in at least four ways. By sowing onion sets, sowing nigella onion seeds, seedlings grown from nigella seeds and vegetatively from small-sized bulbs, the so-called pick onion.

Method of growing onions from onion sets. Historically, a method of growing onions has been developed - from sets. To obtain onions, onion sets with a diameter of 1...2 centimeters are selected; larger bulbs are used to obtain green onions; those less than 1 centimeter in size are used to obtain onions, subject to winter sowing. It should be taken into account that the larger the set, the faster it shoots. Sets with a diameter of less than 1 centimeter do not produce shoots.

Early turnip onions can be obtained by sowing a non-standard small set in the second half of September, but no later than October 10, so that the bulbs have time to take root before the onset of frost. Such onions overwinter well, do not bolt after wintering and produce very large bulbs by July 10...20, that is, a month earlier than a standard set planted in the spring.

A method of growing onions from nigella seeds. Many vegetable growers successfully grow onions from seeds. Seeds are sown as early as possible in the spring. To meet this condition, the soil for sowing onions has been prepared since the fall.

Onion seeds are also sown before winter. This makes it possible to obtain earlier products - two weeks earlier than with spring sowing. For winter crops, an area with a slight slope to the south or southwest with a flat, non-flooded surface and light, unclogged soils is allocated. On heavier soils that dry out later in the spring, winter sowing is even more effective, but only if they are mulched with peat or humus. Mulching the soil is also necessary on sandy loamy soils that dry out quickly.

Pre-winter sowing is best done on ridges in furrows. Seeds are sown after the first frost to a depth of 0.5 centimeters and sprinkled with peat or humus in a layer of 2...3 centimeters. Over the winter, the ridges, along with the surface layer of mulch, settle and by spring the seeds are at the optimal depth. Peat or humus contributes to faster warming of the soil and thereby accelerates the germination of swollen seeds. Mulching protects the soil from significant re-freezing.

Seedling method of growing onions. This method of growing onions is used quite rarely due to the additional labor required to grow seedlings. However, these labor costs are more than compensated by the high yield of large bulbs, which are used for canning and homemade preparations.

Vegetative propagation of onions. Northern local varieties of onions are mainly propagated vegetatively by small bulbs, during the development of which a nest of 8...20 bulbs varying in size is formed. In the northern regions, onions for propagation are usually grown on ridges or ridges, which are prepared in the fall. Four rows are usually placed on the ridge with a distance between them of about 25 centimeters. The distance between plants in a row depends on the degree of their branching and is 10...15 centimeters.

Usually planted in May. If, after the beginning of regrowth on compacted soil, the bulbs, rising on the roots, end up on the surface of the ridge, they are sprinkled with soil. Onions ripen in early August. After lodging of the leaves, the plants are removed from the soil, shaken off, dried well, the nests are divided into bulbs, finally dried indoors and stored. Vegetatively propagated onions give a high yield - 2...3 kilograms per square meter. Many varieties, having a relatively small bulb weighing 25...40 grams and a large number of rudiments, allow one to obtain high yields with a short growing season. If the productivity of a variety decreases, it is advisable to update the planting material by growing new ones from seeds.

Until now, even experienced gardeners look with amazement and a fair amount of doubt at multi-tiered onions. The unusual type of vegetable crop raises concerns that such an “exotic” plant can be successfully grown in a local area. In fact, multi-tiered onions are easy to care for, frost-resistant, and harmful insects prefer to avoid them. The decorative component is no less important - rarely does a passerby remain indifferent when they see beds with an amazing plant.

Characteristics

Gardeners value multi-tiered onions for their ease of cultivation, ease of care, juicy crispy bulbs and, undoubtedly, unusual appearance.

Plants located on the first tier form small airy fruits with green feathers. They become the basis of the second tier and begin to release arrows again. Gradually an amazing multi-layered vertical bed of onions is formed.
The bulb located underground is loose and small. During the growing process, it breaks up into several parts, but their taste leaves much to be desired. But medium-sized onions, located above the surface of the bed, are distinguished by excellent strength, juiciness, sharpness and crunch.
Multi-tiered onions have no dormant period at all, so they bear fruit throughout the entire growing season.
After a couple of years, the root system of a vegetable crop reaches a diameter of 1.5 m, which is not surprising - it needs to provide nutrients to a huge multi-tiered plant.
Young green arrows do not harden for a long time compared to ordinary onion varieties.

Multi-tiered onions are grown without problems by gardeners even in northern latitudes, and residents of the southern regions provide themselves with fresh herbs and juicy, elastic onions for several months in a row.

How to prepare for landing

Multi-tiered onions are easy to care for, but they have certain requirements for the soil. The soil for growing it must be neutral and fertile, so organic fertilizers are added to it before planting. If you choose an open, sunny area for planting, you can reap a rich harvest within 4-5 years. In order for the first green feathers to appear in early spring, the plant should be planted at higher elevations.

Despite its frost resistance, multi-tiered onions can suffer from sudden temperature changes. Experienced gardeners cover their beds with dense, breathable material during spring frosts.

The plant throws out its first green arrows a year after planting, and a month later it begins to grow aerial bulbs to form a second tier. The vegetable crop grows very quickly, and when grown in the southern region, with proper care, the harvest from one bed is quite enough for winter supplies.

Reproduction and planting

Gardeners rarely propagate bulbous plants by seeds. This method is practiced only to replenish your collection with new varieties.

How to propagate multi-tiered onions:

bulbs from the 2nd or 3rd tier;
dividing an overgrown bush.

It is very important to harvest the bulbs before they begin to shoot green arrows. Bulbs collected at the end of summer are suitable for planting. They have time to grow their root system in the fall and prepare for a long, harsh winter. After collecting the seed, it must be thoroughly dried and then placed in the refrigerator in a paper bag.

When planting, you should follow a simple algorithm of actions.

Dig up the bed and add any organic fertilizer.
Plant the bulbs to a depth of 3.5-4 cm, at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other.
When planting in a greenhouse, the distance between the bulbs should not exceed 3 cm.

With the onset of spring, you can propagate multi-tiered onions by dividing the bush. The best time to carry out this type of garden work is after heavy rain. In order for the bulbs to begin to grow the root system, you need to leave only the central feathers and cut off the side feathers.

If a vegetable crop is planted in moist soil, it is better to make a high bed to prevent onion rotting. Nutrients must be added to the soil: per 1 sq. m a couple of buckets of organic matter, 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium salts, 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate. Caring for multi-tiered onions will be easier if you add river sand to heavy clay soil before growing.

Proper plant care

Multi-tiered onions will bear fruit regularly even for a careless gardener, and with good care the harvest will be absolutely excellent. The soil under the plant should not be too wet, otherwise the tender bulbs will rot. You need to water the bed with onions as the top layer of soil dries out. The more water is added to the root, the larger the bulbs become when grown, but at the same time they lose their unique bitterness and crunch.

What care does an “exotic” plant need?

The soil under the onions needs to be loosened weekly - the flow of fresh air is very important for the root system.
As soon as the first bulbs appear on the green feathers, it is necessary to attach the arrows to wooden pegs to avoid unwanted damage.
During the summer you need to feed with any mineral fertilizer diluted in accordance with the instructions.
If the vegetable crop grows rapidly in height, it must be thinned out or divided into several parts.

The plant reacts negatively to weeds, so you need to pull them out regularly. In this case, mulching with mowed grass will help make maintenance easier. Peat, sawdust or spruce needles will excessively acidify the soil, and this will slow down the growth of onions. For successful wintering during autumn planting, the soil must be well loosened to destroy the larvae of onion flies.

Control of garden pests

The main diseases of bulbous crops that a gardener may encounter when growing are various types of fungal mold. Suddenly, the previously emerald feathers begin to turn yellow and fade. This means that the plant is suffering from peronosporosis and does not have enough nutrients for growth. If urgent measures are not taken, then in a few days the fungi will infect all the specimens in the garden. To combat pathogenic fungi, it is necessary to spray three times with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

And weevils can be eliminated with proper care. In this case, growing multi-tiered onions will become a pleasure. You just need to remove accumulated debris and remove dried feathers and leaves. It is in them that harmful insects like to settle.

Many gardeners sow bulbs collected in the fall on their windowsills. With this method of germination, multi-tiered onions will quickly knock out the first green arrows. By gradually planting the bulbs, you can provide your family with fresh herbs all winter. But you shouldn’t wait for the second tier to form - this only happens in open ground.

- This is the very first crop that is planted in the garden beds in the spring. No dish is unthinkable without this vegetable; without onions it is difficult to achieve a refined and spicy taste. Most gardeners grow onions, but in addition to this species, there are many others that are no less appetizing and tasty.

Onions are unpretentious, so they are grown everywhere, regardless of the region. Many gardeners often wonder how to grow a crop of large bulbs. To do this, it is necessary to take into account some of the characteristics of the plant and provide the onion with all the conditions for the full development of the root crop.

The plant has a rich species diversity - about 1000, but in our gardens it is customary to grow only edible species. There are not many of them, but these species are firmly included in the human diet. Moreover, they have healing properties that are known even to children.

Among the great variety of species, the most commonly grown in gardens are:

Onion - this type of plant is a perennial; only its leaves are eaten. Greens ripen throughout the season - from spring to autumn. Batun is able to withstand frosts and is absolutely unpretentious.
Onion - this type of onion is known to everyone and is grown everywhere as the main onion crop. Both root vegetables and feathers are eaten. Onions store well if they are collected on time and grown correctly. The taste of onions is tart and spicy.
– this plant can be grown as an ornamental, but its leaves are cut for salads and other gourmet dishes. The greens are juicy, tender and tasty. Grows throughout the season.
– this type of onion differs from onions in taste. It is more tender and juicy, not so spicy. However, the bulblets are much smaller. Dishes with it turn out aromatic and tasty. It is this type that is most often used for preparing medicinal decoctions and infusions.
Slime - this type of onion is distinguished by its leaves. They have a delicate taste and resemble garlic. Only leaves are used for food; this species does not have root crops. The species is cold-resistant.
– it is valued for its pleasant onion taste and the absence of tears during cutting. Used as food in all countries of the world.

Garlic onion - this species has already become so isolated that many do not even know that it is an onion. Garlic has a rather pungent and bright, pungent taste. Not a single preparation or meat dish is complete without it. Grown everywhere.

Gardeners, as a rule, plant several types of onions at once - onions, spring onions and chives. These are one of the most popular species in garden beds. They are unpretentious and delight with greenery all season long.

Depending on the type of plant, the best method of propagation is determined. For example, onions are usually grown from sets. Seed material is obtained from seeds that are formed at the end of the growing season - the arrow is released. Usually gardeners buy ready-made seedlings and don’t bother with the seeds. Onion-garlic is propagated vegetatively - by cloves or children that form on the root crop. Other types of onions are often propagated by seeds.

Some species are perennials and reproduce by self-seeding, for example, batun.

The method of propagation depends on the type of onion and the preferences of the gardener. Some people like to propagate the plant by seeds, while others prefer the vegetative method.

Onions love sunny places and can grow in almost any soil. However, if a gardener sets out to grow a large crop, the soil should be loose and fertile. Onions do not tolerate acidic soil, so it is acidified with lime, wood ash or dolomite flour. It is preferable to use the latter additive, since a mixture of humus and lime is impractical. Nitrogen in this tandem will not be enough for full development.

Landing Features:
The soil is prepared in the fall. To do this, dig up the ground, add humus and... Add ash or lime only if the soil is highly acidic. In the spring, the soil is dug up again and the complex is added.
Onions are planted when the ground is warmed to the length of the index finger.
Seeds should be planted to a depth of no more than 3 cm, if the soil is heavy - 1.5 cm. The distance between the bulbs is on average 8-10 cm, between rows - 20 cm.
After planting, the bed can be mulched with humus or compost. In just a week, shoots will appear.

The main point when planting onions is to prepare the soil and enrich it with fertilizers. In fertile and loose soil, the gardener will be able to grow a large crop.

To successfully grow onions, it is not enough to apply fertilizer once. The crop needs to be looked after - watered, weeded and fed. This is the only way to grow really good onions.

During the period of feather growth, the crop needs to be watered two to three times a week - the first decade of development.

As soon as the bulb itself begins to grow, watering is reduced to once a week. If the summer is rainy, there is no need to water. This culture does not like dampness. In hot and dry summers, you can water the plant once or twice every 10 days, but no more. Two weeks before harvest, watering is stopped altogether. I really don't like onions. Therefore, try to keep the garden bed clean. Pull out weeds in a timely manner. An overgrown bed retains moisture - onions don’t like this, the root crop can rot or become infected with a fungus.

If you want to reap a good onion harvest, you need to apply fertilizer in a timely manner. This rule applies to poor, unenriched soil. If enough fertilizers have been added to the ground, then fertilizing is not necessary. It is very easy to determine the deficiency of any substances. If the onion has a pale green tint, there is not enough nitrogen. The feather turns yellow, which means there is not enough potassium. Dry pen tips indicate a lack of phosphorus.

Rules for feeding onions:

In the first ten days of growth, nitrogen fertilizers, for example, ammonium nitrate, are applied to the soil.
In the second decade, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers begin to be applied. When the bulb begins to form and grow, you can add another portion of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
However, the third feeding is not necessary. Many gardeners have noticed one feature of the plant - the root crops become larger and juicier if they are watered with saline solution. The ground around the bulb is generously sprinkled with salt and watered. This measure is used to combat the onion fly - its larvae and then worms do not like salty soil. The method has proven itself and made it clear that salt not only drives away flies, but also helps improve the taste of onions. It is recommended to sprinkle the ground with salt twice a season.

The main thing is not to “overfeed” the culture. If the plant has juicy, green feathers, it does not need feeding.

You can determine the readiness of a vegetable by its feathers - they appear, dry out and fall to the ground. The neck between the greens and the fruit begins to dry out. When this happens, the onions can be harvested. The main thing is not to overexpose it in the garden, otherwise the shelf life of the vegetables will greatly decrease.

Root vegetables are carefully removed from the ground and laid out to dry, not at home, but outside. It is worth taking care that rain does not wet the crop when drying. The onions should dry for about a couple of weeks. After this, the dried feather is cut at a distance of 3-4 cm from the bulb. The roots are also trimmed. Next, the onions are placed in wooden boxes and in a dark place - home pantries, cellars or rooms.

Growing large onions is not so difficult, the main thing is to provide the crop with fertile, loose soil and properly care for it.

The only thing that cannot be controlled is the weather. If the summer is not successful, it is cold and damp, then you should not count on a large harvest, despite all the efforts and correct efforts. But if the summer is warm, then every gardener can grow a generous harvest.

More information can be found in the video: