What are wood routers. How to choose a high-quality and reliable router? Working stroke of the cutter

Processing lumber, inserting loops, making technological holes and recesses, woodcarving - all this can be done by such a device as a milling cutter. Moreover, this can be done not only by professional equipment, but also by relatively inexpensive manual specimens. But working with a manual wood router requires knowledge of some techniques and rules. All this is in the article.

What is a cutter and what is it for?

A milling cutter is a device for processing wood or metal. They process flat and shaped surfaces, and also forms technological recesses - a groove, a comb, recesses for installing hinges, etc. According to the installation method, there are stationary machines (there are different types for performing different operations), and there are manual milling machines. Manual electric milling cutters are a universal tool that allows you to carry out any operation. To change the operation, you just need to change the nozzle - the cutter and / or its location on the part.

Machine tools are mainly used in mass production. In them, the cutter is installed motionless, and the workpiece moves along a certain trajectory. When working with a manual milling cutter, the situation is the opposite - the workpiece is fixed motionlessly, the milling cutter is moved. When processing large volumes of identical parts, it is more convenient to fix a hand router on a horizontal surface, making something similar to a milling machine.

Homemade milling machine - a horizontal plane with a hole in the middle, to which a manual router is attached from below

There are many different types of milling machines, but for the home DIYer or for semi-professional use, universal ones are more suitable. They are equipped with various cutters and special devices, which allows you to perform any operation. It just takes more time and skill to complete them than on a specialized machine.

What can be done with a manual milling cutter:

Similar operations are used in carpentry, in the manufacture and assembly of furniture. Even embed a lock or hinges on the door - this can also be done by a hand mill. Moreover, it will do it much faster and more elegantly than similar operations, but performed with a hand tool.

Preparation for work and care

To understand the principles of working with a manual router, it is desirable to have at least a general idea of ​​​​its structure and the purpose of the parts.

The structure and purpose of the main nodes

The manual electric milling cutter consists of a housing in which the motor is hidden. A holder protrudes from the body, where the collets are inserted. Collets are small adapters that allow the use of cutters with different shanks. A cutter is already inserted into the collet and tightened with a clamping bolt (on some models it is fixed with a button).

Another important detail of a hand router is the platform, which is connected to the body with two rods. The platform is usually made of metal. There is a sliding plate on the underside of the platform. It is made of a smooth material that ensures the tool runs smoothly as it moves through the part.

Setting the parameters of the milling cutter is done using:

• Handles and jackals for setting the depth of milling. The tuning step is 1/10 mm.
• Adjustment of the number of revolutions. Changes the rotation speed of the cutter. For starters, it’s worth trying to work at low or medium speeds - it’s easier to drive the tool at first.

Also, be sure to have an on / off button on the case, there may also be a lock button. Here, in a nutshell, are all the nodes. In addition, there is also a parallel stop that is quite convenient to use. It can be simple or adjustable - you can move the cutting part slightly to the right or left.

Care

From the factory, the equipment is lubricated, so in principle, no additional operations are required. But it is necessary to keep the equipment clean - it is necessary to clean the dust more often, change the lubricant if necessary. Lubrication is needed for moving parts - guides. You can use liquid aerosol lubricants (preferably), but you can also use ordinary grease-type "Litol". But, when using thick lubricants, they will have to be removed periodically, as chips and dust stick, it becomes difficult to work. When using light aerosol formulations, there is practically no sticking.

In order for the sole to glide easily, you can lubricate it with silicone grease. This is especially useful when working with templates. Then the tool literally glides, goes smoothly and without jerks.

Rotational speed

Work with a manual milling cutter on wood, composite, plywood, etc. starts with setting the basic parameters. First you need to set the rotation speed. It is selected depending on the selected cutter and the rigidity of the material and the characteristics of the router, so exact recommendations should be sought in the instruction manual.

Fixing the cutter

Next, a cutter is installed. Most branded cutters have marks that you can navigate. If they are not available, then the minimum must be clamped at least 3/4 of the length of the shank (cylindrical part). Insert the cutter to the required depth (if necessary, having previously installed a collet - an adapter chuck for different cutter diameters), fix the shaft, tighten it with an open-end wrench until it stops (but do not overtighten).

If the model is simple, two keys are needed. They do not provide a mechanism for blocking the shaft, the second key will need to hold it. Middle-class devices have a lock button. Clamping it, tighten the cutter with an open-end wrench. In expensive models, in addition to blocking, there is a ratchet by which you can navigate.

Setting the milling depth

Each model of a manual router has a certain overhang - this is the maximum depth to which this unit is able to process the material. The maximum depth of milling is not always required, then its adjustment is required. Even if it is necessary to mill to a great depth, so as not to overload the cutter and the unit too much, it can be divided into several levels. There is a revolver for this. This is a small disk under the bar with a number of stops of different heights - legs. The number of legs is from three to seven, and more does not mean better. It is much more convenient if it is possible to adjust the height of each leg. This shows the class of the equipment. To fix the turret in the desired position, there is a latch, usually made in the form of a flag.

Setting the milling depth on a manual router takes place in several stages:

• The tool is placed on a flat surface, the clamps are released, the hand is pressed so that the cutter rests on the surface.
• The turret stop is released by unscrewing its lock.

• Depending on what depth of milling is needed, choose the leg of the turret stop. The disc with legs is rotated to the desired position.
• The screw is not fixed, but the bar is held with a finger, the movable pointer is moved so that it coincides with zero (in the photo above).
• The bar is raised to the milling depth mark, after which the turret lock is lowered (pictured below).

Now, when installed on the workpiece and pressing on the upper part, the cutter will enter the part at the set distance.

On good routers there is a wheel for fine adjustment of the depth of milling. It allows you to adjust the depth without knocking down the settings (you do not need to repeat the entire operation), albeit within small limits (in the photo above this is a green wheel).

Milling cutters for manual router

Milling cutters are cutting tools that process and shape the surface. They consist of a cylindrical part, which is clamped by collets in the unit holder, and a cutting part. The cylindrical part can be of different diameters. Choose one that has a collet for which your machine has. The shape and location of the blades of the cutting part determines the look that the wood receives after processing. Some cutters (for edges) have a thrust roller. It sets the distance from the cutting surface to the workpiece.

Working with a manual wood router involves the presence of a certain number of milling cutters. This is a small part of what exists

Make cutters from different metals and alloys. For processing soft wood - pine, spruce, etc. - use conventional nozzles (HSS), for hard rocks - oak, beech and others - from hard alloys (HM).

Each cutter has a certain resource and maximum speed, which ensures normal operation with minimal runout. Do not exceed the recommended speed - this can cause damage to the router. It also makes no sense to sharpen the cutter if it is dull. They do this on special equipment (worth about $ 1000), where you can set the required sharpening angle. Nothing good can be done manually. So blunt ones are easier (and cheaper) to replace, since they cost relatively little.

Popular types

There are a number of types of router bits that are most commonly used.

There are simple milling cutters, formed from a single piece of metal, there are type-setting. Type-setting have a shank - a base, a certain set of different cutting planes, a set of washers of different thicknesses. From these details, you can independently form the required relief.

Type-setting cutter - a set of several cutting surfaces and washers from which you can make a cutter of the required shape

These are the most popular types of cutters, but in fact there are a lot of them. In addition to different diameters of shanks, there are different diameters of cutting surfaces, their height, the location of knives relative to each other, etc. In general, do-it-yourself milling usually requires about five of the most common milling cutters. They are usually present all the time, and the rest are purchased for specific types of work.

Principles of work with a manual milling cutter

An electric milling cutter is a rather dangerous thing - sharp cutting parts rotating at high speed can cause serious injuries, and chips flying from under the tool too. And although most models have a protective shield that reflects the main flow of chips, goggles will not interfere. So the work of a manual wood router requires attention and concentration.

One of the models - with a connected vacuum cleaner to remove chips

General requirements

Work with a manual wood router will be easier and more enjoyable, the products will turn out to be of normal quality if certain conditions are met:

Not such complex requirements, but their implementation is the key to good work and safety. Well, the main requirement is that the milling cutter must be driven smoothly, without jerks, shocks. If a strong beat is felt, change the speed. Most often, it must be reduced, but in general it is worth focusing on the manufacturer's recommendations (available on the package).

Edge processing - working with a template

Processing the edge of an ordinary board is easier and faster to carry out on a thicknesser, but if it is not there, a manual milling cutter will also cope, but it will only take more time. There are two ways: without a template and with a template. If this is the first experience with a router, it is better to use a template. When processing the edges of boards, straight edge cutters are needed, and, most likely, two will be needed - with a bearing at the beginning and at the end of the cutting part (pictured).

For edge processing - make a flat surface

As a template, you can use an already processed board or, for example, a building rule. The length of the template should be slightly longer than the length of the workpiece - by 5-6 cutter radii on each side. This will make it possible to avoid the “dive” of the cutter into the material at the beginning and at the end. One important point: the horizontal plane (perpendicular to the workpiece) must be flat. In any case, its curvature should not be greater than the gap between the bearing and the cutting part, otherwise the cutter will touch the template, and this is very bad - it becomes imperfect and the resulting irregularities will appear on other copies.

If the width of the part is not more than the length of the cutting edge

The cutting part of the cutters has different lengths, but the larger the cutting part, the more difficult it is to work - more effort has to be applied to hold the unit. Therefore, it is easier to start with a medium cutter. The order of processing the edge with a router (with a template) is as follows:

• Set the template so that it sets the required flat surface - stepping back the desired distance from the edge.
• The blank with the template is securely attached to the table or any other horizontal surface.
• Install a cutter with a roller in the middle part. It is set so that the roller rolls along the template, and the cutting part along the part. To do this, the cutter is installed on a fixed workpiece with a template, a milling cutter disconnected from the network is placed, the position of the nozzle is corrected, and it is clamped.
• Set the cutter in the working position - lower the body, clamp it.
• Turn on a manual milling cutter, guide it according to the template. The speed of movement is determined by the depth of processing. You will feel everything yourself.
• And how to conduct a milling cutter? Pull or push? Depends on which side you're on. If the workpiece is on the left, push; if on the right, pull. You can also navigate by the overhang of the chips - it should fly forward.

On this, in fact, everything. After you have completed the passage, evaluate the result, remove the clamps.

This, by the way, is another way to remove a quarter along the edge of the workpiece or in some part of it. To remove a quarter, set the cutting part so that the processing is of a given depth.

By changing the cutter to a curly (fillet) and shifting the template or using the stop that comes with the kit, you can apply a longitudinal pattern to the workpiece (pictured below).

In general, this milling technique is quite convenient. For the first steps in woodworking, this is the best way to “fill your hand”, then it will be possible to level the edges even without guides.

The width is greater than the length of the cutting part

What to do if the thickness of the workpiece is not more than the length of the cutting part of the cutter? In this case, the work with a manual wood router continues:

Now the edge is completely processed on one side. If necessary, repeat with the other side. In general, in order to master the work of a manual wood router, you will need several “rough” blanks. Choose from those that you don’t mind throwing away - at first there will be a lot of jambs, then gradually learn.

Obtaining curly and curved edges

If you need not even, but rounded or any other shape of the edge, you need to look at the state of the existing edge. If the workpiece is more or less even, take the necessary edge cutter, install it and process the surface, as described above. If the surface is too curved, it is first brought to a normal state, and then milled.

This is necessary because the bearing roller rolls over the surface and if there are flaws, they will be copied. Therefore, act consistently - first level, then - give curvature.

If a curved surface is boring at all, a template is cut out. The drawing is applied to plywood with a thickness of 8-12 mm, first it can be cut with an electric jigsaw, so the edge is brought to an ideal state with a milling cutter.

In this case, you will also have to work with a router, but so far without a template. When the surface is perfect, the template is fixed to the workpiece and then the work already described above with a manual wood router. Just one point: if you need to shoot in some places a large amount of material, it is better to do it with a jigsaw, for example. Otherwise, the cutter will quickly become dull.

Video tutorials on working with a manual router

When installing doors, it is necessary to cut the hinges, how to do this with a router - in the next video (there is also a guide on how to make a groove, for example, for installing an extension).

How to make a homemade milling machine from laminate samples (you can use plywood) and how to make a spike connection for drawers (a table, for example) - in the next video

The work of a manual wood router is shown well in the following video, but it is in English. Even if you do not know English, take the time to look. Many operations will become clearer.

A milling cutter is a tool for milling: cutting material with a rotating cutter directed perpendicular to the surface to be machined. With the help of milling in the material, you can get straight and curly grooves, holes of complex shape; straight and curved edges can be profiled. All of the above fully applies to manual routers - the tool that will be discussed in this article.

Structurally, a manual router is very simple - the collet chuck is fixed directly on the motor shaft, the motor itself is placed in a housing that can move up and down along the guide rods rigidly fixed to the support platform (sole).

In addition to the most common and versatile vertical hand router, there are also several highly specialized types on the market:

Edge router (trimmer) - as the name implies, it is designed for processing edges. In essence, it is a router optimized for processing only edges. It is used by professional furniture makers, it is better for a home craftsman to pay attention to more versatile routers.

A lamellar router is another highly specialized tool for furniture makers for sampling oval grooves for lamellas.

Rotary or tile router - and this tool is usually purchased by master finishers for fine work on ceramic tiles.

Although hand routers were originally created for woodworking, modern routers are also capable of processing artificial stone, plastics and soft metals. The router can hardly be called a universal tool, but many of the operations that are performed by the router are almost impossible to do with something else. All this makes the router an indispensable tool for any master. Here is a short list of the features of a manual router:

• sampling a quarter (open groove - "steps" - from the edge of the board)
• shaped or straight edge profiling (furniture front, table top)
• execution of grooves, slots, folds, nests (for connecting parts to each other)
• production of seats for door locks and hinges
• cutting flat parts of various shapes
• cutting holes of various shapes in flat parts
• decorative carving and engraving

Some models allow grinding surfaces, making paired holes, milling ceramic tiles. But, although the list of materials processed by manual milling cutters is quite large, wood remains the main working material for milling cutters. And, accordingly, its main users are carpenters, master finishers and furniture makers.

It would seem that since the device of the router is so simple, then different models should not differ much in price, and even then - only due to different engine power. In reality, milling cutters of the same power can cost both 6,000 rubles and 30,000 rubles. What is the difference between expensive and cheap models? As materials from which they are made and in a variety of equipment included in the kit. A cast, not stamped, sole, precise positioning of rigs and the head of the router, light and clear, without backlash and distortion, the movement of the head - these are the features that distinguish a high-quality professional tool. Expensive routers are able to provide greater precision and accuracy in the processing of parts and give the master more opportunities for processing. In addition, some features have been added to the professional models that are not available in the basic models.

Characteristics of milling cutters

Power. Directly determines the limits of the router's capabilities - the maximum diameter of the cutter and the depth of processing. An increase in power leads to an increase in the weight and price of the tool, so you should immediately determine the requirements for the router and select a tool of the power that is needed based on the required processing depth and diameters of the cutters used.

Spindle speed. The cleaner the surface to be machined, and the harder the material to be machined, the higher the rotation speed should be. At the same time, some materials (eg plastics, ductile metals, some types of wood) cannot be processed at very high speeds. Also, some types of nozzles have their own requirements for speed. Based on the above, if the router is supposed to be used for different operations or with different types of materials, then you should choose a model with speed control. It should also be borne in mind that the spindle speed can drop under load, to prevent this phenomenon, some (mostly professional) models are equipped with the option maintain rpm under load.

To prevent jerks when starting the engine, there is an option soft start- Milling cutters equipped with this function, although they will cost more, will last longer by reducing adverse effects on the engine. Yes, and the risk of spoiling the part with a sharply broken cutter will be less.

It also has a function to prolong tool life. overload protection, which comes into effect when the permissible engine temperature is exceeded. This function can be implemented in different ways - from LED indication to forced power off, but in any case it will not be superfluous.

Collet size. The larger the cutter, the thicker and stronger the shank, and, accordingly, the larger the diameter of the collet chuck. As a rule, powerful milling cutters are equipped with cartridges of maximum diameter. However, often the kit comes with several interchangeable collet chucks. And, even if they are not included, they can usually be purchased separately. In extreme cases, you can use an adapter to install a cutter with the wrong diameter in the chuck. The cutter is fastened in the chuck using two open-end wrenches, usually included in the package. If the router is equipped spindle lock, when replacing the cutter, only one key is required.

Maximum cutting depth. A parameter that directly affects the power of the tool, therefore, the weight and price. Therefore, it is wise to start choosing a router by determining exactly the required maximum depth. For most furniture manufacturing jobs, for example, a milling depth of 45-50mm is sufficient.

Since it is not always necessary to cut to the maximum depth, most routers are equipped with cutting depth limiter, which can be adjusted to a predetermined depth before starting work. With simple basic models, depth adjustment is done quite roughly, often with a simple millimeter scale applied to the rods. Expensive models, on the other hand, can boast of special immersion depth meters and an accuracy of tenths of a millimeter.

Often, cutting is not done immediately to the full depth, but in stages. In this case, it will be useful to have on the instrument turret stop to several positions. This version of the depth gauge is a turntable with stops of various heights. By turning it, you can quickly and accurately change the current milling depth. In some models, the stops on such a limiter are made in the form of bolts, by tightening which you can adjust the depth of the milling steps, which increases the versatility of the tool.

Additional equipment

Additional equipment of the router greatly affects both its functionality and price. Therefore, the completeness and quality of equipment must be paid the closest attention. Even if the router is purchased for a specific purpose, it will be useful to find out if there is additional equipment for this model and whether it is possible to attach equipment from other models to it.

Parallel stop designed to guide the cutter at a constant distance from the edge of the part. With the help of this stop, grooves are milled in furniture facades, interior doors, etc.

Guide bar also designed for milling in straight lines, but, unlike the parallel fence, without reference to the edge of the workpiece. The guide bar allows you to mill at any distance from the edge and at any angle to it.

Copy sleeve used to copy a part according to a template. The sleeve is selected according to the diameter of the cutter and is installed in the sole above the cutter. The template is placed on the material being processed, and, resting the sleeve against the edges of the template, it is copied.

Compass allows milling along a radial line.

Choice options.

If you need a tool for a variety of household jobs that do not require high precision and quality of milling, the basic model will suit you at a price of 3,500 to 8,000 rubles.

If you are going to use a router professionally for the manufacture of furniture or interior doors, pay attention to models from manufacturers specializing in the production of professional tools. Such a router will cost from 8,000 to 20,000 rubles, depending on the characteristics and configuration.

If you are going to use a router for metal work, you should pay attention to models with a high number of revolutions. Such a tool can be chosen in the price range from 3800 to 13000 rubles.

If you need a powerful professional router to work with heavy cutters and with a large depth of milling, get ready to shell out 20,000 to 30,000 rubles.

If you are a professional furniture maker and you do not yet have an edge router, pay attention to this type of tool - it can significantly speed up the processing of edges and provide them with the best appearance. Such a tool will cost you from 7500 to 15000 rubles.

A hand mill is a necessary tool in the household. With it, you can process not only wood, but also other materials, such as plastic, non-ferrous metals, artificial stone, etc. However, in order to obtain a high-quality result, it is necessary to choose the right tool, taking into account various factors.

Types of manual routers

When choosing a device, it is important to consider which variety is suitable for solving specific problems. To do this, you need to understand the varieties of manual milling machines. A manual milling cutter can be represented by one of three types:

• lamellar;
• edging;
• upper.

Top manual milling cutters, in turn, are divided into submersible and fixed. A feature of the first option is the movement of the engine along the guide. This makes the tool easier to use. The movement of the cutter up and down is carried out without separation from the workpiece thanks to rigid springs.

When using fixed top hand routers, the depth of cut has to be adjusted by raising and lowering the tool. The position of the cutter must change when turned on, so some skill is required to work.

If you need to turn edges or chamfer, then the best option is an edge router. And for making connecting grooves in parts - lamellar.

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Criterias of choice

The most appropriate to the expectations and required functions is possible only on the condition that various characteristics are taken into account.

First of all, you should pay attention to power. In this case, the goals that are set for the instrument should be taken into account. For professional work, it is recommended to purchase more powerful devices, and milling machines with a power of about 750 watts are also suitable for solving small household tasks. The more power, the heavier the tool. This must be taken into account, since its weight directly affects the convenience of work.

It is important to take into account the speed of the device, especially if the plans include work not only on wood, but also with other materials. If only wood processing is planned, then 7 thousand revolutions will be quite enough, since wood is a soft material. For milling tougher materials, tools with speeds of up to 24,000 revolutions can be used, depending on the types and characteristics of the materials to be processed. In addition, it is worth paying attention to the depth of milling. For professional use, you can purchase a manual router with a processing depth of up to 6 cm, but for amateur use at home, you can get by with a depth of up to 3 cm.

An important element of the device, which should not be neglected when choosing it, is the switch. It is recommended to opt for models equipped with a locking mechanism with protection against accidental shutdown. These features will make your work more convenient and safer.

To facilitate the machining process, it is recommended to opt for hardened steel conical collets. This shape optimally matches the shape of the motor shaft (also tapered). Collets made of ordinary steel produce a rattling sound during operation, which makes the material much more difficult to process. In addition, they wear out much faster.

It is much more convenient to work with a tool that is equipped with a built-in dust extraction. In extreme cases, you can purchase a tool with a gateway to connect the suction.

The sole of the device is also an important element of the overall design. The ideal option is a molded sole. Hermetic shape and optimal fit to the work surface ensure the best quality of work. Wooden or plastic overlays are attached to the sole. They must be of high quality. If wood is used, then only hardwoods can be used.

The functionality of the tool and its performance depend on the design features of the movement of the head. Its movement is made along the bars. With the rod mechanism working properly, the head part moves smoothly, and its movement does not require extra effort. To adjust the immersion depth, the mechanism is equipped with a special screw or lever. For high-quality milling, it is required to choose devices with the most accurate adjustment.

It is impossible to neglect some auxiliary structural elements. If the process requires maintaining the router at an equal distance, then a parallel stop is used. This part must be made of high quality alloy. In places where contact with the workpiece is possible, plastic pads should be provided. The size of the parallel stop does not matter much.

In the opening of the sole there is a round plate with a low side. This is a copy ring, the so-called sleeve. The plate should be fixed quickly and easily. When installing the part in the machine, this will avoid unnecessary waste of time and effort.

If it is required to make several parts according to one template, then an angular stop is used. The template is located under the workpiece. The cutter rests against a specially designed probe during operation. If the corner stop cannot be adjusted, the work will be more difficult.

The router is the most useful and versatile tool for both professional and home workshops. In most cases, the milling cutter is able to play the role of several specialized devices at once: a drill, an engraver, a circular saw, as well as a manual or electric planer. There are several types of milling tools. The most popular of them are routers that allow you to process a part without much effort according to the given parameters and template.

The main problem when choosing a milling cutter is the selection of the right, high-quality and, if possible, inexpensive tool for the personal needs of each user. In order not to make a mistake, carefully read the expert rating based on strict selection criteria, comparison of parameters, as well as reviews and opinions of numerous buyers.

How to choose a manual router

The best low power routers (up to 1200W)

A distinctive feature of low-power routers is compactness, mobility, ease of handling and low weight. Their capacity is enough to equip a home workshop, but they are ineffective for professional use. This is due to a number of disadvantages: the work is carried out using cutters of a fixed length and a diameter of up to 32 millimeters.

3 Makita RP0900

Optimum equipment and best ergonomics
Country: Japan
Average price: 8,130 rubles.
Rating (2019): 4.6

Milling cutter Makita RP0900 was in third place in the ranking is not accidental. To him, as well as to the entire line of the manufacturer, there are no complaints in terms of reliability. The handles are rubberized and comfortable to use. The body is made of durable plastic, and the platform is made of die-cast aluminum. The fact is that the working stroke (35 mm) and engine power (900 W) in it are an order of magnitude less than those of competing models, and the price is in the range between them. Of the positive aspects of its use, one can note its low weight, the ability to accurately set the processing depth, as well as the presence of a template device in the kit.

Advantages:

• the presence of a copier in the kit;
• light weight (2.7 kilograms);
• Comfortable handles and durable body.

Flaws:

• no soft start system.

2 Interskol FM-55/1000E

Top quality tool. User Choice
Country Russia
Average price: 10 330 rubles.
Rating (2019): 4.7

This is amazing, but a worthy competitor to foreign models has appeared in the camp of the domestic instrument. Interskol FM-55/1000E is a low-power vertical milling machine designed primarily for carpentry work. In terms of quality and convenience, not everyone can compare with it. The model is equipped with a single collet for 8 millimeters - the rest will have to be bought on their own. This is not a problem, as competitors are doing the same. The cost of the tool confuses a little, but the high quality fully justifies the price tag.

Advantages:

• quality tool;
• comfortable in using;
• high accuracy (play is practically absent).

Flaws:

• slightly overpriced.

When buying milling cutters, a lot of parameters flash before the buyer, most of which do not carry any useful information. A logical question: what criteria should be used to choose the right tool? To make the task as easy as possible, pay primary attention to the following items:

Vertical (working) stroke of the router. The value of this parameter directly affects the milling process. The more vertical travel, the larger cutter can be used on this router. If the stroke is too small, then the efficiency of the cutter used will decrease significantly.

Speed ​​controller. The speed of rotation of the cutter is a key parameter in the operation of the entire device. The regulator allows you to select the rotation speed in such a way as to prevent burns and reduce the performance of the cutting tool.

Smooth start. This setting is especially important for powerful tools. Soft start avoids a sharp jerk of the tool when turned on, as well as unwanted overload of the mains.

Dynamic brake. This device allows you to stop the spindle and the rotating cutter as quickly as possible.

The level of emitted noise. It may seem strange, but noise is one of the contributors to environmental pollution. Working in a noisy environment for a long time can be detrimental to your health. Therefore, when choosing a milling cutter, you should pay attention to this parameter.

1 Bort BOF-1080N

Favorable combination of price and quality
Country: China
Average price: 4,089 rubles.
Rating (2019): 4.9

Manual vertical router of the budget segment, the characteristics of which meet all the requirements for a professional tool. With a power of 1200 W Bort BOF-1080N is able to operate at a frequency of 11 to 30 thousand revolutions per minute, providing milling at the level of 45 millimeters. Its functionality integrates the ability to adjust the spindle speed for finer tuning of the tool for cutting a particular material.

One of the features of Bort BOF-1080N is the package, which includes two collets for 6 and 8 millimeters, which makes it possible to install small-diameter cutters in the chuck for cutting narrow grooves. In the case of making deep cuts, the router is equipped with a revolving stop, thanks to which you can get the desired result in several passes. As a result, the functionality of the tool seems to be sufficient for professional woodworking in carpentry workshops, and the low price only emphasizes the unexpected superiority of the model over its competitors.

Top Medium Power Routers (1200 - 1900 W)

Milling cutters in this category represent a conditional "golden mean", and can be used to solve larger tasks in home and professional workshops. However, it should be noted that it is inconvenient to process finely detailed surfaces with such a tool, since the accuracy of the result obtained can be very low.

3 Wert EVR 1450E

The lowest price in the segment
Country: China
Average price: 2,990 rubles.
Rating (2019): 4.9

In the opinion of users, one of the leaders of the segment unexpectedly became the Chinese milling cutter Wert EVR 1450E, which showed good results in terms of spindle speed and the quality of processing wood blanks. With a power equal to 1400 W, the user gets the opportunity to adjust the speed in the range from 16 to 30 thousand per minute, providing the ability to cut to a depth of 50 millimeters.

The ergonomic features of the Wert EVR 1450E are also of great interest, and are noted as a positive feature in consumer reviews. The nominal weight of the router is 3.1 kilograms, so it is very easy to control it during the processing of parts. Add comfort wide plastic handles, comfortable for a confident grip. Finally, from the kit we can distinguish the presence of a pipe for connecting a vacuum cleaner and two complete collets of 6 and 8 millimeters, respectively.

2 Bosch POF 1400 ACE

The best maximum spindle speed (28 thousand rpm)
Country: Germany
Average price: 8,400 rubles.
Rating (2019): 4.7

Despite the relatively low engine power of the Bosch POF 1400 ACE router, the spindle speed varies in an impressive range from 11 to 28 thousand revolutions per minute. Small but very nimble motor allows you to easily process even the hardest types of wood. The kit includes two collets for 6 and 8 millimeters - the milling cutter will not physically be able to pull more. A nice addition to the tool itself will be a case that also fits a special copier. The only drawback of this router is the lack of a soft start of the engine, but with a mass of 3.5 kilograms, it will not be difficult to hold the device.

Advantages:

• attractive price;
• acceptable engine power;
• Ease of use;
• storage case available.

Flaws:

• lack of a smooth set of revolutions;
• high noise level (about 95 dB).

1 Makita 3612C

Best quality. User Choice
Country: Japan
Average price: 18,581 rubles.
Rating (2019): 4.8

Today it is very difficult to find a more durable and high-quality analogue of the Makita 3612C mid-range router. The motor of this "little monster" consumes 1.85 kW of power and accelerates the spindle to 23 thousand revolutions per minute. According to users, in a hard, almost daily load mode, Makita is able to work for a very long time, about 305 years, while other models failed very quickly. The only drawback of the model is the prohibitively high price, elevating the router to the rank of expensive professional tools.

Advantages:

• excellent reliability;
• ergonomics noted by users;
• powerful engine.

Flaws:

• high price

Best High Power Routers (1900 - 2600 W)

High power milling cutters are designed to carry out an extended range of jobs for which the power of an average tool may simply not be enough. In particular, thanks to them, the operations of angular and direct splicing, the manufacture of panels, the cutting of furniture facades, etc. are carried out. This is a purely professional technique, the purchase of which for the home may be an inappropriate use of resources.

3 CALIBER FE-1900/12M+

High level of reliability
Country Russia
Average price: 5 250 rubles.
Rating (2019): 4.8

A powerful router for a home of domestic origin, the advantages of which are clearly reflected in the parameters of structural reliability and the abundance of consumables for repairs in service centers. With a power of 1900 W, the FE-1900/12M+ CALIBER provides a rotational speed in the range from 6 to 26 thousand revolutions every minute. Such a run-up of values ​​​​is quite enough to start processing workpieces from various types of wood - fortunately, the torque allows you to process grooves and ends without visible effort and load on the power elements.

Due to the impressive dimensions of the main components included in the design, the weight of the FE-1900/12M+ CALIBER was 5.2 kilograms, which is why the craftsmen have to take forced breaks. However, this nuance led to the manifestation of a number of advantages, the most important of which is the ability to install 8 and 12 millimeter collets into the chuck. In terms of cost indicators, this router turns out to be a very useful acquisition, which is also reflected in user reviews.

2 Hammer FRZ2200 PREMIUM

The optimal combination of price and quality. The presence of three collets in the kit (6, 8, 12 mm)
Country: China
Average price: 10,199 rubles.
Rating (2019): 4.9

Not the most expensive in the segment, this hand router is a unique combination of wide design possibilities with a good selection of technical features. Despite the small range (relative to a number of competitors) of rotational speeds (9-22 thousand revolutions per minute), the torque on the engine shaft is enough for trouble-free grooving even in hardwoods. It is also important that the cutter is able to go deep by 75 millimeters, allowing you to process deep grooves, yielding in this component only to the products of the American company DeWalt.

The Hammer FRZ2200 PREMIUM comes with a set of three collets with a diameter of 6, 8 and 12 millimeters for maximum cutting possibilities. There is a pipe for connecting a vacuum cleaner, a soft start of the engine, which eliminates the jerk of the tool at the start, as well as an additional adjusting ring for fine-tuning the cutter to the required processing depth.

1 Makita RP2300FC

Best quality
Country: Japan
Average price: 20,057 rubles.
Rating (2019): 4.8

Vertical router Makita RP2300FC does not leave a chance to its competitors. Japanese quality, commensurate with the quality of Bosch models, makes itself felt. Inside the router there is a 2.3 kW motor that develops up to 23,000 spindle revolutions per minute. This noticeably affects the total weight of the tool, which is 6.1 kilograms.

The high price for this Makita model is justified not only by the presence of a powerful motor. The router comes with a special device for precise copying of grooves of complex configuration. There is also an LED illumination of the working area, which is necessary when milling in conditions of insufficient visibility. You should not worry about reliability - the platform is made of alloyed aluminum, which is not afraid of either excessive loads, or chips and kinks.

Advantages:

• rubberized handles;
• aluminum base;
• performance quality;
• powerful engine;
• soft start available.

Flaws:

• high price;
• the presence of a small play on the rods.

The best edge routers

The main difference between edge routers and vertical routers is static. Structurally, they do not include the possibility of raising and lowering the cutter, so all milling parameters are set before the start of the operation. Such a measure allows you to carry out the processing of edges without any problems, but it will be simply inconvenient to perform other work.

3 Hammer FRZ710 PREMIUM

Favorable price offer. Universal router
Country: China
Average price: 5 720 rubles.
Rating (2019): 4.6

Despite the fact that the Hammer FRZ710 PREMIUM came in third place in the edge router category, it would not be entirely correct to call it such. The fact is that in addition to equipment for performing edge operations, it is equipped with a vertical base with additional handles. But using the Hammer as a full-fledged router will not work: the vertical travel of the cutter is limited to 30 millimeters. Yes, and it is inconvenient to use.

When processing edges, excessive vibrations appear, which do not have the best effect on the accuracy of the operation. The router is heavy and uncomfortable in the hand. In general, this model can be called the best home option, because it will be unable to do more.

Advantages:

• the set includes three collets for 6, 8 and 10 millimeters;
• universality;
• good power when performing edging operations.

Flaws:

• when processing edges, the heaviness of the router is felt, vibrations appear.

2 Makita RT0700CX2

The optimum ratio of price and quality
Country: Japan
Average price: 12,338 rubles.
Rating (2019): 4.7

The age-old confrontation between the Japanese and German brands this time was not in favor of the first. Qualitatively, the Makita RT0700CX2 edge router is able to compete with any models in its class, but the equipment leaves much to be desired. The 710-watt engine is capable of developing up to 30 thousand revolutions per minute - this is more than enough for processing viscous and hardwoods. The maximum insertion depth of the cutter is 35 mm. The base of the Makita router is made of transparent polycarbonate plastic, which seems to be better in terms of process control. However, it is still not worth putting extra pressure on the platform. The price of the model is also captivating: it is several times lower than the cost of Bosch edge routers.

Advantages:

• attractive price;
• good quality and ergonomics;
• powerful engine.

Flaws:

• plastic non-durable platform.

1 Bosch GKF 600 Professional

The best professional edge router
Country: Germany
Average price: 11,590 rubles.
Rating (2019): 4.8

There is no equal in this category to the edge router with true German quality - the Bosch GKF 600 Professional. The compact model is equipped with a 600 W motor that can spin the collet up to a respectable 33,000 rpm. A positive fact is the presence of an aluminum base, which practically does not add weight, but is stronger than the plastic ones installed on competing models. The base lock is made in the form of a flag, and it is also a cutter overhang regulator. Manufacturers have taken care of the ergonomics of the router - the body is made just perfect. And by removing it altogether, you can turn the milling cutter into a completely piecework engraver.

Advantages:

• the ability to replace the vertical base with a proprietary base with a tilt regulator;
• ergonomics and reliability of the tool;
• easy setup.

Flaws:

• not detected.