Cherry tigo central locking how it works. Keychain standard alarm. If the lock does not work at all or partially
Chery Tiggo (T11). Guide - part 5
20 Security systems
Conventional control: Glass movement
occurs while you hold down or
pull up the switch button.
Lowering the glass: Press the switch-
Tel.
Window lift: pull switch
up.
Function of automatic lowering stek-
la (for some versions
car)
The function of automatic lowering of the glass
stake have drives of all electric
windows. In order to stack
lo lowered automatically, press
and hold the switch for
one second, then release. For
stop glass in the intermediate position
press the switch again.
The function of lifting windows with the help of buttons
ki on the remote control
(for some versions of the car-
car)
In order to take advantage of this
function, press the LOCK button on
remote control up to
until they are fully raised
you glass all the doors.
If the power windows
do not work properly, contact
go to an authorized service station
your Chery dealer to have them checked.
Electrical
power windows
Electric actuator switches
power windows
Driver's door switch panel
1 - Electrical switch
driver's door power window
2 - Electrical switch
rear left door power window
3 - Electrical switch
power window rear right door
4 - Electrical switch
power window, front passenger door
5 - Lock button
power windows
6 - Central locking button
Use the switches to
opening or closing windows is possible only
with the ignition on.
Security systems 21
Electric windows
Drive lock button
power windows
If you press the drive lock button
yes windows on the driver's door,
then the windows of the passenger doors
will not work. But at the same time, each
the power window can be controlled by
switches on the driver's door. For from-
to enable this function, press again
power window lock button
emnikov. It is recommended to use
this function if you are in the rear seat
there are small children.
Power windows can
only work when the ignition is on
and remain active for 60 seconds
after switching the ignition switch to the position
ACC or OFF. But they can't be controlled
if any front door is open.
Each passenger door has
individual electrical switch
window regulator of this door.
There are switches on the driver's door
chalets for controlling electrical
power windows on all doors.
22 Security systems
Electric windows
Do not leave anyone in the car
le unattended, especially ma-
lazy children if the key is left
in the ignition switch. Otherwise
case, they can use
electrical switches
power windows and get cha-
I want to get hurt or die. Cro-
Moreover, they can use
authorities, which can
lead to a serious accident.
ATTENTION!
Be careful when lifting
glass so that it does not pinch finding
hands or strangers in the opening
items!
DANGER!
Before closing the windows, make sure
the fact that there are no hands in their openings
or other parts of the body of the passage-
ditch.
Do not allow children to use
with electric windows
receivers. Otherwise
they can get severe
mu or die.
When leaving the car
leave the key in the ignition
niya.
There are a lot of reasons why the central locking of a car may fail or stop working stably. Sometimes weather is to blame for malfunctions, namely too high humidity, excessively low temperatures, and similar climate features. But sometimes problems arise due to incorrect installation of the lock itself, improper adjustment, as well as normal wear and tear due to long-term operation.
1. Localization of malfunctions of the central lock
Experts conditionally divide all the problems that may occur with the central lock into several groups:
1) Full or partial failure;
2) The lock works, but with malfunctions, which are caused by electrical or mechanical defects, or due to damage.
If the central locking of your car is acting up, then try to determine which category the defect belongs to. Repair should begin not with the analysis of any parts, but with the diagnosis of equipment, which will significantly reduce the time for repairs, and sometimes the financial costs of this event.
The operation of the central lock should not depend on the operation of the engine, as well as on whether the ignition is turned off or on. The most important thing is that the on-board network works, that is, the power terminals must be connected to the battery.
The whole system is formed by switches connecting the wires and the drive, on which the type of the central lock will depend. The central lock can be electric, while the drive will also be electric, that is, presented in the form of solenoids or mechanisms with a motor. If the central lock is pneumatic, that is, vacuum, then it will have a vacuum drive, while the drive will be formed from the control board, compressor and tubes. Often, actuators are called activators or actuators. The control drive is mounted in the door on the driver's side, and sometimes on the passenger side. If this drive is triggered, then an electrical signal is sent through special wires, which will open or close the remaining doors.
If the car has an alarm, then the repair must begin with its testing. If, when using a portable alarm panel, the central lock does not respond, then you need to check the operation of the lock from the button and key, which are responsible for opening and closing the door on the driver's side. If the lock is activated during manual control, then the problem lies in the malfunctions of the control and electrical circuits of the alarm itself. First of all, you need to check the battery that is in the remote control. She may be torn.
2. If the lock does not work at all or partially
If, after manually checking the operation of the central lock, it still does not work, then you need to determine what the problem is, that is, specify the nature of the manifestation of the defect. If the vacuum central lock completely fails, then you will not hear how the compressor works. In the case of electric central locking, you will hear weak clicks that the relay will emit, and the buttons for self-opening will not work on all doors. If this is the case, then you need to check and, if necessary, install a new fuse for the central locking circuits. It may be necessary to change a few fuses, depending on the electrical circuit of the machine.
There is a possibility that this will be enough to normalize the work, and the repair will end there. If at the moment when the central locking is activated, one of the fuses burns out, then this indicates that somewhere in the circuit that this fuse protects, a short circuit occurs. In this case, you need to look for the reason why the closure occurs. If all the fuses are in order, but manually opening the central lock does not work, then the reasons may be as follows:
1) The supply wires may have broken, or the contacts are not connected to the terminals due to oxidation, so there is no voltage at the input of the driver's door activator, that is, the control signal cannot be transmitted by the drive to the other doors. There is simply nothing to transmit the signal with;
2) The limit switch of the driver's door activator has broken, or the wires that extend from the control terminals have broken, or there is too little contact on the terminals, that is, there is no control signal.
Repair work should begin with checking the presence or absence of power and wire control signals at the time the central lock is activated, that is, you need to check if there is voltage at the corresponding terminals. Then you will need to check the wires for quality and integrity. At the very end, you need to check the limit switch, which will need to be repaired or completely replaced, if necessary. The switch in the case of electric central locks is always located inside the drive.
The central lock may not work if there is a breakdown in the machine's electronic signaling circuit, and in the case of a vacuum central lock, the compressor board may also be broken. It is necessary to check and repair them at the stage of completion of diagnostic work. If the central locking still responds, then this is a case of a partial defect, that is, you can hear how the compressor of the vacuum central locking works, or you can hear the clicks of the relay at the electric lock.
Manual door buttons may or may not work on every door. They can also quickly switch from the "closed" to the "open" position and vice versa. Such defects can occur due to impaired fixation of the fasteners of the rod that goes from the drive to the locking mechanism. This can happen in the doors both on the driver's side in case of poor operation of all activators, and in other doors if the opening and closing process is disrupted in them.
3. Repair of partial failures of the vacuum central lock
Often, such breakdowns of the central lock are accompanied by atypically long compressor operation (15 - 20 s, or even more):
1) Until the pump stops working, the car doors open and close with a central lock;
2) All doors have either opened or closed, or some kind of lock has not worked, and the compressor is buzzing until it is turned off by the protection.
In the first case, a breakdown may occur due to too much condensate or due to breakdowns that are associated with the contacts of the activator switch. That is, there is voltage from the drive through both control wires to the pump board, there is a “+” that goes to both closing and opening, which is why the compressor either pumps out or pumps air. In this case, you will need to check the switch, and if necessary, replace or repair it. There can be several reasons for the failure of the second case:
1) Vacuum line tubes leaking;
2) The signal to open or close the lock does not reach the compressor control board from the limit switch of the activator of one or more doors. The pump continues to work;
3) Signals to open or close the locks are not received by the compressor, despite the fact that they reach it.
In the first case you need to first check the line to the door where the drive does not work. You can find the area where there is damage by the characteristic hiss of air. Pipes that are damaged must be replaced. In the case of the integrity of the hoses, the problem is not the tightness of one of the drives. Often, the membrane is damaged on one of them, or the wire itself breaks. If you could not find the necessary membranes or actuator, you will have to buy the door lock itself.
If the problem falls under second case, then repair work must begin with the diagnosis of the electricity circuits going from the door actuators to the control board, for the presence of voltage on the corresponding wire. To do this, you can simply compare the state of all circuits from all drives. Most likely, the wrong signal comes from a single wire, and the voltage on the bundle of wires in which there is this "broken" one will not be the same as on the conductors from other bundles. Then you will need to find the place of the open circuit and fix it. Often, damage is in the area of door corrugations. In the case of the integrity of the wires, the cause of the malfunction must be sought in the limit switch, which will either have to be repaired or replaced.
In the third case it will be necessary to disassemble the compressor unit and clean the contacts of the terminals of the pneumatic alarm sensor for opening and closing. Most likely, the terminals are oxidized. If, after such a repair, the lock still does not work, then you should check the control board circuit. It will need to be repaired.
4. Electric central lock repair
Central locks with domestic-made solenoids, a few years after the start of use, begin to act up due to temperature fluctuations, and they are especially badly affected by cold along with high humidity, which is typical for autumn and spring. First, the solenoids wedged, and then they may completely refuse to open and close the locks. Often, this situation is typical for cars, the central locking of which was installed at the factory. It would be better to change them to drives with a motor, but you can still try to carry out repair work. If the activator of one or more doors does not work at all or works only partially, then this indicates that:
1) An open or broken contact has occurred in the power circuit going from the activator switch from the driver's door to the power relay (directly or through the control board) and then to the idle drive;
2) The relay is out of order;
3) The control board is broken;
4) Broken wires or broken contact on the motor terminals or solenoids inside the activator;
5) The gears of the activator with the motor or its moving parts are worn out;
6) Motor winding or solenoid coil burnt out.
You need to start the repair by checking the voltage supply to the drive that does not work. Voltage must be on one wire at the moment the close function is activated. At the moment of opening, the voltage on this wire should disappear, and on the other, on the contrary, it should appear. Then, based on the results of the diagnostics, it will be necessary to check either the activator itself and repair / change it, or the circuit that comes from it, in “pieces”, then this is the area before the relay along with the control board, then the relay itself and the wires after it . Damaged areas will need to be repaired. Most often, in the central locking system of a car, the wires in the corrugation between the body and the door are torn.
For motorists, the comfort system is of particular importance. Isn't it convenient when all the doors, the fuel tank cap, the tailgate are locked and unlocked on your car with one push of a button on the key? Such a mechanism is related to auxiliary systems and is called the central locking of the car.
The functions of the central lock can be controlled centrally and decentralized. What does this mean?
- Centralized - a single electronic control unit for all doors.
- Decentralized - in addition to a single control unit, there are more blocks: one for each door.
Consider the central locking device as a comfort system and the principle of its operation.
The control unit, input sensors and actuators that perform the executive function, all these are the nodes of the "central lock" mechanism.
The whole system is controlled remotely from the control panel. The remote control is a radio transmitter, which is located in the handle of the ignition key. From it, the signal is sent to the antenna of the central control unit. Remotely, the central locking functions work at a distance of up to 10 meters.
Input sensors in the lock mechanism are microswitches and door limit switches. To fix the current position in the design of the car door, microswitches are used. To transmit a signal to the control unit and fix its current position there, a limit switch is used.
The front doors of the car are equipped with a cam mechanism and microswitches that fix the position of the lock. Moreover, the surface of these cams has a special profile. The "Lock" signal generates one of the two microswitches, the other generates the "Unlock" signal.
Two more microswitches form a signal of the central locking device about the current state. When triggered, they will transmit "Unlocked" (Unlocked) or "Locked" (Locked).
The lock drive has a lever mechanism. To fix its position and determine the current position of the door, another microswitch works. If the door is opened, the switch contacts close. In this position, the vehicle's central locking mechanism cannot be activated.
From all switches, signals are sent to the electronic control unit. Which processes them and sends them to the central unit. The processed signal is then redirected to the control units for the front doors, to the actuators of the rear door locks, the fuel cap lock or the tailgate. In other words, the door control units receive a signal that activates the actuators for locking doors and other locks.
The actuator is the very actuator, the door lock. It is combined with a gearbox and is a DC motor. The gearbox, rotating the electric motor, gives the mechanism a reciprocating motion - this is how the lock cylinder works.
In addition to the electric drive, there are pneumatic designs of actuators. For example, well-known German factories and used pneumatics in their cars. Pneumatic actuators are almost non-existent these days.
Video about the central locking systems of the car and their principle of operation:
The central locking system functions regardless of the ignition state of the machine. Whether it is on or off - it does not matter, the mechanism will work.
Locking the front door with a key, you start the function of the microswitch responsible for blocking. This happens as follows: from the switch, a signal is sent to the unit that controls the door, then it goes to the central control unit, which controls all the door units, the electric motors of the rear door actuators, the tank lid and the trunk. All actuators are started and the car doors are blocked. To prevent the electric actuator from being triggered again, a microswitch signal is generated in the central locking device. You can unlock the door in the same way - by turning the key in the lock.
To lock the doors of your car at a distance (remotely), there is a button on the ignition key or there is a separate key fob with buttons. When pressed, a signal is sent to the receiving antenna in the central control unit. There, the “message” is processed and the command leaves the center for peripheral units (on the door, locking the fuel tank cap and trunk). Actuators, which actuate the button on the ignition key, ensure that all doors in the car are locked. As well as fixing the doors, the alarm is turned on remotely with the button. Additional comfort will be the remote control of the windows of the car. It will cost more, but it turns out 3 in one: door lock, connection of a security alarm and automatic lifting of the lowered windows.
It is worth noting that in the event of a traffic accident, all doors will automatically unlock. This is done by transmitting a signal from the passive safety control unit to the central control unit. And the command to actuate the actuators leaves the center, all the doors are opened.
Video about the reasons why the central lock does not work:
Wiring diagrams of the central lock
Central locking control circuit for a VAZ 21099 car. It can also be used for VAZ 2110 and 2115 cars.
Wiring diagram for the Central Lock on the Mitsubishi Lancer 9 series.
Wiring diagram for connecting to the central lock on the Volkswagen Polo. Everything is done on one wire. To open the doors, a minus is applied to it, and for closing - a minus through a 1 kΩ resistor.
Scheme of negative control of the central lock. It is often used in VAZ 2110 cars, as well as some other foreign cars of Japanese and Korean production.
Scheme of positive control of the central lock. Usually they use this scheme on American-made cars, for example, on Fords - Mondeo.
Video about installing a central lock on Daewoo Sens:
Video about installing the system on the VAZ 2107:
Central locking won't open
You open the driver's door of the car with the key, and the other doors do not open, although, according to the logic of the central locking, they should open.
The simplest and most common reason may simply be a blown fuse. When it burns out, the electrical circuit of the lock stops working, although mechanically (with a key) you can easily open or close the doors.
I don’t know how it is in others, but in the Chinese cars of the Derweiss assembly, the contact chip from the driver’s lock could easily fly off. Usually this chip has five contacts. To check this possibility and put the chip in place, you will have to open the door. This is done very simply, both on solano, and on geely mk or cross. A screw near the inside handle for opening the door and a screw inside the handle for closing. The door panel itself is held on by plastic caps.
In addition to the chip, the microswitch in the electric drive of the driver's door lock may fail. Its function is to close the circuit when the key is turned and open or close other doors. If you have a regular central locking control panel available and with its help the doors open, but not with the key, then the reason is in the driver's door lock.
If the doors do not work when using the remote control (buttons on the key), then either the fuse is to blame, or the BCM does not receive or transmit a signal. On the smiley, this block is located under the steering column, you need to unscrew the two screws and flip the plastic cover. On Solano and Lifan x60, it is fixed under the heater control panel. On Geely Mk above the fuse box in the cabin (right). On emgrande, too, under the steering column to the right of the driver's feet.
Also, do not exclude the cause of chafing contacts in the door harnesses. This is still a rarity, since the cars are all relatively new.
Electric locks do not open when controlled from an alarm
If there is no standard remote control on the key, but there is a third-party signaling and it does not open the door, then the first thing to do is also check the fuses. And not only the car itself, but also the alarm. For this you need to know. Where is the central alarm unit located? Usually, blue and green wires, or blue and green with a white stripe, go to control the central lock. Fuses are hinged directly on the wires.
Of course, the signaling itself could fail. Listen when you press the remote control buttons - are there characteristic clicks of electromagnetic relays in the alarm unit? If not, then check why. Maybe the battery is dead or the remotes have lost synchronization with the unit. Try to program the remotes again according to the instructions for the signaling. If there are clicks, then either the fuses or the wiring are to blame.
By the way, in winter, the load current consumed by the central lock increases due to weather conditions. As a result, fuses may blow more frequently.
(Edited by Dmitry.O.) This material contains information regarding the standard alarm key fob and battery replacement in it. The average battery life is 2-3 years.
Due to the existence of various options for the procedure for disassembling the key fob, I give a description of the simplest one. Links to authors (materials and photos) at the end.
Battery type: CR 2032.
replacement procedure.
1.
Buy a new, good, battery.
2.
Open the keychain case. To do this, gently pry off the top cover of the keychain with a sharp knife or scalpel. From the end of the keychain, where the key ring is attached, there is a small recess (“flat”), where it is convenient to insert a knife.
3.
To make it clearer, here is a photo from Beard 517 rus
On the left photo - the beginning, on the right - the result.
There is an even simpler (but also dangerous!) recipe from UVO_Ujin The simplest, take the keychain ring and turn it to a kink, the keychain will open.
The battery is attached (pressed) with two "antennae" (shown by arrows), which can be slightly squeezed out before installing a new one, pressed against the lid. Before closing the key fob, do not forget to replace the ring. If you removed the board from the case with a silicone seal, then after installing it in the case on the reverse side, we control that the “titty” fits into the hole. We close the lid by shifting from the ring to the cherry emblem, so as not to jam the sides of the silicone seal.
In most cases, with a quick and accurate replacement, everything works.
Here's more from the Chinese site: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=6121730050 
Possible problems.
“I used one key, the battery ran out. I replaced the battery and the problem is there. When you press the buttons to open or close the car, the light on the remote control lights up, but the car does not react. The second key works fine."
There are several ways to solve the problem:
1.
Contact the service station.
2.
a. change the battery
B. insert the key into the ignition c. turn the key to light all the lamps on the panel, but do not start! g. in this mode, press the button to close the door and wait for about 0.5-1 minutes without releasing. e. After 0.5-1 minutes, the doors are closed, the immobilizer is programmed.
3.
SAMlex: the battery is dead... I couldn't change it for a couple of months... when I bought a new battery, it turned out that the central locking does not work when the buttons are pressed. I tried to re-register the key in the specified ways
T11-SB wrote: yes, in the very key I changed it. how to program: 1. replaced the battery 2. put the key in the ignition 3. turned the key when all the lights on the panel (check, oil, acomm) and a squeak that the belt is not fastened. 4. but do not start! 5. in this mode, press the button to close the door for about 0.5-1 minutes without releasing 6. after 0.5-1 minutes, the doors are closed, the immobilizer is programmed in the service, they charge 500 rubles for this. and the battery costs 10 rubles. and a couple of minutes of work)))
DID NOT WORK
Alcher wrote:
While holding the close button on the key fob, insert it into the ignition switch and slowly turn smoothly to the first and second positions, without releasing the key fob button and also slowly back, remove it from the ignition switch and everything should work
DID NOT WORK
after that, I did the following: I pressed the central locking button and smoothly turned on the ignition, with the ignition on, I pressed the buttons to close the opening several times, turned off the ignition, pulled the key out of the ignition
- EARNED!!!
Awesome: The second method worked for me. IMHO the 3rd is a variation on the theme of the second, and it helped in the third not by pressing the buttons, but by a longer dance time))))
Z.Y. my story -
after washing the car stopped responding to the key fob. Opened and closed with a key. The car is 3.5 years old, I use one key fob, the second one is completely new, with a sticker from the passenger compartment with the last VIN digits and with burrs on the plastic - I want to give it to the new owner after the sale)))))
At first I decided that the sink was to blame - maybe something was poured there, I thought it would dry out - to fix itself. A week later, it was not fixed. On this occasion, I read into the forum. I decided that it was time to change the battery - 3.5 years is the term for it. I opened the key easily and naturally with the key to the garage, according to the pictures from the wiki. By the way, my diode burned with the old battery, and before the breakdown, there was no decrease in the zone of action, so it may not be the battery, but the key fob simply unsubscribed. I decided to bind - The first method is posted on the wiki - it did not help me. IMHO some kind of garbage, not a way - it says that the close button must be held for 0.5-1 minute, but both of my key fobs stop working exactly after 15 seconds with the button held down, the diode stops blinking - check who has the same.
But the chances of success remained, because. I noticed that if you press a button on the “non-working” key fob, and then press the same button on the working one and hold both, then the machine does not respond. If the button on the “non-working” button is released, then the machine closes immediately, i.e. The “non-working” key fob works and emits a signal, and it either clogs the signal of the worker, or the signaling begins to ignore the signal that did not come first. I propose this method for diagnosing key fobs that do not work at first glance.
As a result, the 2nd method helped, but in order to find it, I had to read this topic for a couple of days. The whole process took 7 seconds. I inserted it - pressed the closing button - turned it slowly until the ignition was turned on - waited a couple of seconds - turned it back.
Dmitry O.:
For those who want to get acquainted with the problem in more detail, I provide links to the Ukrainian forum (thanks to gsm and nudashop for help in preparing.) http://www.ecu.ru/diagnostics/full/im/?PHPSESSID=32cde7298e2ba388d692212a91bcec84#text
