Is it possible to lay logs on a concrete floor. Securing lags to concrete floors are the secrets of professionals. Preparation of the base before laying the log

Today, there is a wide variety of possibilities for arranging a concrete base in private houses or city apartments. In the course of work, you can use all kinds of flooring, insulation, insulation materials, you can level the concrete surface with a self-leveling mortar and use the “warm floor” system.

Laying logs on a concrete floor does not lose its relevance. Especially this way of arrangement is in demand in the construction of private houses in which the ceiling height allows you to carry out all the necessary operations. One of the advantages of this method is the possibility of using relatively inexpensive insulation.

In this article we will talk about how to attach lags to concrete floor.

About the features of lag mounting

When fastening to a concrete base of a building material, various tools and fasteners can be used. Mounting wooden logs is relatively simple. The work is carried out in several stages.

Choosing materials and tools

Today, one of the most popular methods of laying logs does not provide for their fastening to the floor. With this option, the rigidity of the structure is achieved due to the fact that the log boards are fastened together using boards or other material. The method is quite reliable, but there is still a big risk of shifting the flooring.

Therefore, it is best to use the traditional version, which involves fastening to the base using anchors or self-tapping screws.

Choose lags

When choosing a lag, you need to pay attention to the following criteria:

• The type of wood that can play a key role in the strength of the substrate.
• The price of the purchased material. It is best to use inexpensive coniferous wood (fir, pine, spruce) when carrying out these works. At the same time, a tree of 3 varieties will do. The main thing is that the humidity indicator does not exceed 20%.
• The dimensions of the bars in cross section.

Advice!
The choice of section sizes depends on what type of insulation you will be laying between the lags.
In addition, last but not least, you should think about the height of the ceilings.
If the height is small, you should not raise the floors much, since this way you compress the interior space of the room.

Basic concepts about wooden floors. 33. Critical factor: lower heating. Positioning Systems - Floating System Low Cost Transmission with low impact noise Easy to use High noise reflection Low durability Risk of joint formation.

2-component hard adhesives Suitable for most substrates. Wood does not absorb liquids. They can be applied to low porous or absorbent surfaces, usually with a primer. Preparation time Risk of damage to the substrate. Surface preparation required.

Choosing Tools

To carry out the installation of the lag, you will need tools designed for working wood and for drilling concrete:

• Hammer drill.
• Anchors (such fasteners are selected depending on the cross-section of the beam).
• Self-tapping screws 6 mm in diameter, the length of which depends on the size of the bars. They must be supplied with polypropylene dowels.
• Some carpentry tools: planer, hacksaw, circular, etc.

Many home craftsmen are interested in how to fix the logs to the concrete floor. The choice between self-tapping screws with anchors should be based on the planned financial costs.

The first option is more economical, the second is much more reliable. In practice, in most cases, dowel fastening is enough, in addition, cheap screws should be screwed in with a much smaller step.

The main advantage of anchor fasteners is that they not only fix the position of the bars, but also press them to the base. This is very important if the final flooring is massive enough and subject to frequent mechanical stress.

Do not forget about the waterproofing. It must be installed on a concrete floor before installing the lag.

Advice!
As a waterproofing, you can use roofing material or building polyethylene.

Features of the installation

After all the materials and tools have been prepared, you can proceed directly to the installation.

The instruction provides for several stages:

1. We lay roofing material on a concrete floor. Joints between sheets must be glued using construction tape.
2. We distribute the base lags. Two of them are laid along opposite walls. The rest should be arranged with a certain step, given the stiffness and density of the material laid on top of the lag. Accordingly, the stiffer the material, the smaller the pitch. The average parameters are 40-80 cm.
3. In the event that the length of the room exceeds the length of the bars, then they fit butt-to-butt. If high logs are used in this case, or a high load is expected on the floors, it is necessary to produce end cuts to connect the elements.
4. Having laid two logs along the walls, we set their height using the level.
5. We pull the cord between the extreme lags, on which the rest of the bars should be laid.
6. Drill holes in the bar and base.
7. In the hole in the floor we lay the spacer of the anchor or dowel.
8. We screw bolts or screws. On one bar there are two or three anchor fasteners. The screws are screwed in increments of 60 to 80 cm.

Conclusion

As you can see, installing the floor on the logs with your own hands is much easier than it might seem at first glance. To create a reliable foundation is quite realistic if you listen to the advice of specialists. The video in this article will help you learn even more. "Width \u003d" 640 "height \u003d" 360 "frameborder \u003d" 0 "allowfullscreen \u003d" allowfullscreen "\u003e

Conclusion

As you can see, installing the floor on the logs with your own hands is much easier than it might seem at first glance. To create a reliable foundation is quite realistic if you listen to the advice of specialists. The video in this article will help you learn even more.

Dear expert, I would like not to splurge on screed in a new building (every penny is not superfluous and the ceiling height, alas), and we want the floor from boards. Is it possible to make a completely presentable coating (not creaky) on the floor slab? If so, then what and why lay under the lags? And what kind of sound insulation to arrange, sparing the neighbors below.

Expert Answer:

You are probably being built in a brick, block or frame house. Otherwise (panel house) you would not have enough space between the door and the floor mark in order to arrange a screed or mount the logs. In this case, it would be possible to lay a laminate or parquet board using the “floating” method. It provides for the placement under the rigid floor structure of a soft and elastic layer - a substrate, which also performs a soundproofing function.

When installing the floor on the logs, we recommend resorting to a similar technique: to separate the boards and logs along which the sound is perfectly distributed from each other and from the reinforced concrete slab with soundproof gaskets. Soundproofing is all the better if the gaskets are located on two levels: below - between the stove and the lag, and above - between the lag and the board. Hardboard sheets used soundproofing earlier, fiberboard has the worst properties. Today, more efficient foamed polymer materials are available. They can be called in different ways, for example, "Izoshum" or simply foamed polyethylene, but the properties are similar. Another good option is cork sheets 2-4 mm thick.

In this design of the wooden floor (though plywood, not plank), the noise is suppressed by a soundproofing pad laid on top of the log. It consists of two layers: foamed polyethylene and cork. We recommend laying the film down on the floor slab.

If the concrete base has a large slope, and the logs are not very even, it makes sense to firmly fix the beams to the plate with self-expanding dowels. In this case, it is necessary to lay a soundproofing gasket under the wedges, and fill the gap between the concrete and the log with mounting foam.

In addition, it helps to reduce the noise level and the heat and sound insulating material laid between the lags; you can use inexpensive glass wool or fill the gap with expanded clay.

So that moisture does not penetrate into the floor structure from the bottom, before starting work, we recommend that you lay a plastic film on the floor slab, leading it to the walls just above the level of the plinth. It is not necessary to use construction with reinforcement; you can use the usual greenhouse.

Fix the floor boards to the logs not with nails, but with self-tapping screws. It is very convenient to work with special Spax floor screws

As for a possible squeak, the presence of an elastic gasket between the lag and the boards will already largely prevent its appearance. Another trick: use phosphate or galvanized screws instead of nails. By the way, if for some reason you have to disassemble the floor, this can be done with screws without problems. It is also very important to carry out work in a room with normal humidity and apply well-dried wood. If the walls and ceilings have not yet dried out after construction work, it makes no sense to start laying the floor. Logs and boards, if you are not sure about the quality of their drying, it is better to carefully fold them in a room with normal humidity, shifting the gaskets. To logs and boards dried out faster, you can send them turned on fan heater, installed at a safe distance.