Natural ventilation device in the house. How to make a hood in a private house: technical requirements and an overview of installation rules. Installation of main air ducts

The device of ventilation is an important procedure in the construction of a house. The circulation of fresh air in the premises of the house is necessary to prevent the appearance of dampness and mold, which not only harm the structure itself, but also adversely affect human health.

Varieties of ventilation in a private house

There are three options for air circulation in the premises of the house:

• Natural type of ventilation. Air moves from the house to the street. Special channels through which air is directed help to circulate air masses due to pressure.
• Forced type of ventilation or supply and exhaust system. It is an auxiliary air exhaust system. Produced using a special design for air exchange.
• Mixed type of ventilation. Natural ventilation is used in conjunction with forced ventilation.

Each type of ventilation has its pros and cons. For example, if the area of ​​residence is environmentally friendly enough, then the installation of a forced system is not needed, the residents of the house already have access to clean air. The filters built into the system will only prevent the penetration of the aromas of nature into the house.

But if the dwelling is located in an area where the environment leaves much to be desired, then air filtration must be present in the room without fail. But the installation of ventilation requires careful planning and calculation.

How to make ventilation with your own hands

The most ideal option is to consider ventilation when planning the construction of a house. Supply ventilation should be thought out to the smallest detail.

It is necessary to take into account the main input data of the object:

• The location of the house;
• The materials from which the house is built;
• Environment.

Only considering all of the above, you can make a choice in favor of one or another option.

Natural ventilation is suitable for the following location features:

• Clean air in the building area;
• The house is built of brick, wood, adobe, foam concrete, ceramic or expanded clay blocks.

If the natural ventilation option is not able to provide normal air circulation, then a mixed type will be a good option. It is also possible to install ventilation in a particular room: kitchen, bathroom, etc.

Basement ventilation helps to ventilate the room, preventing the appearance of mold.

Forced type of ventilation system

A forced exhaust system is installed in cases where:

• The house is located in an area whose air must be cleaned of pollution;
• During the construction, 3D panels, sandwich and vacuum panels, frame type of the house were used.

Under such circumstances, a forced filtration system is simply necessary to ensure the comfort of the occupants and extend the life of the building.

Do-it-yourself ventilation installation in a private house

To properly install ventilation in your home, you need to have some knowledge on this topic.

If the house does not have a natural type hood, or it is not sufficient for a comfortable life for residents, then an additional ventilation system is necessary.

In bathrooms and bathrooms, condensation often appears on the walls, mold fungi and other negative factors. Installing a wall fan will help get rid of these disadvantages.

Of course, the installation of this equipment is impossible without material costs, and the noise from the operation of the ventilation apparatus can bring discomfort to residents.

The fan can be powered by electricity or in conjunction with the lighting system.

Note!

Various types of installation of these systems can be seen in the ventilation photo with your own hands.

The ventilation system must be of high quality so that the supply of fresh air through the ventilation pipes circulates in sufficient quantity for the comfortable existence of residents.

To properly install the ventilation system at home, study all the nuances of installation, familiarize yourself with the basic rules and conditions for the proper operation of the equipment. Install in accordance with the scheme you calculated.

DIY ventilation photo of a private house

Note!

Ventilation systems are varied in design, so choosing the right option for a private house is quite difficult. You need to understand the many subtleties and nuances before making a decision.

What is it for?

Home ventilation in a cottage or country cottage is needed primarily for ventilation, that is, to replace exhaust air masses with fresh ones. However, this seemingly simple answer hides many subtleties and nuances. It is not always enough to pump a certain volume of air from the outside and dump some of it out. A very important task is to free the home atmosphere from dirt, from harmful microorganisms and dust particles.

Even in cottage settlements, the purity of the air masses is doubtful. All the same, every minute factories are working somewhere, trains and planes are rushing, smoke is pouring from power plants and from car exhaust pipes. An ordinary gas stove clogs the room atmosphere with moisture additives. Plastic windows disrupt the normal process of decontamination. Modern ventilation devices successfully solve all these problems.

Windows due to nets can prevent bumblebees and flies, mosquitoes and leaves from getting inside. But they will not protect against dust particles and plant allergens. The air passing through the mesh remains as excessively humid or dry as it is outside. It is not heated in winter, and in summer it brings a tiring heat. Well-made ventilation reliably cuts off all these negative factors, does not allow mold and other fungi to settle in the house.

Ventilation system device

Ventilating complexes can solve such problems only if they are properly organized according to a special methodology. For the organization of mines, air ducts made of plastic are widely used. Thanks to the universal connections, you can assemble everything with your own hands. Metal structures are more reliable, but it is much more difficult to assemble an air duct from them. Such work is already performed mainly by masters.

Grids are used to distribute air; sometimes more than 10 grills can fall on 1 house. They are divided into supply and exhaust devices. But a prerequisite is that the grille (together with other constituent elements) must block the opening for the passage of air by a maximum of 40%. Forced ventilation systems are often equipped with diffusers and fans.

Ventilation complexes equipped with heaters are able to heat the incoming air. The efficiency of this option is higher than the use of even the best heating devices for warming up the air that has already arrived. A very important component in many cases is the filter. They may not be used in suburban dwellings, however, proximity to a federal highway or railway requires the use of an appropriate device. In this case, it should cope only with the release of air from dust.

Regardless of the intricacies of filling, the equipment used and the natural or artificial drive of air, it is taken from below and released at the top point. Of the additional devices in the natural ventilation scheme, there is only a supply valve. Hoods for the boiler, as well as for gas and electric stoves, are of an autonomous type. It is important to understand that they are not able to replace a complete ventilation system. After all, air intake near the ceiling and at a considerable distance from the heating devices still does not occur, and therefore the atmosphere in the room will inevitably remain clogged.

Kinds

Already at the time of construction, any building, including a private house, must be equipped with natural ventilation devices. This is the basic minimum, without which a normal indoor environment cannot be ensured. It is for such components that the calculation is usually carried out in the first place, and the portion of air provided by natural ventilation is subtracted from the need in order to determine the required power of mechanical devices. But the disadvantage of such a system is that it works stably only within very strict limits. It is enough to change the weather conditions, just change the direction of the wind, and the efficiency tends to zero.

Supply ventilation systems provide rational management of the quality characteristics of the air in the home. The simplest way to ensure the flow of air mass is a fan placed in a window opening. The disadvantage of this option is that it only works well in warm periods. If the temperature is very low, it will create discomfort.

That external ventilation, which can be seen in public and industrial buildings, is redundant for a private dwelling. And the point is not only in excessive power, but also in a large occupied area. You will need to do the work as accurately as possible and develop the project in the smallest detail. Monoblock systems working for inflow have become widespread. Such systems are assembled within a single housing equipped with noise insulation.

Personal inflow systems work only for one room. Most of these devices are low power, do not create strong noise. The cost of purchasing them is low. There is no need to use air ducts and involve specialists. It is allowed to equip such systems with recuperative units, however, their efficiency is ensured only at a positive air temperature.

The attached type of ventilation ducts should have dimensions of 10x10 or 15x15 cm. It is advisable to use ready-made pipes, and not build communications from drywall. This is more reliable and saves time during installation. The pipes are brought out above the roof, the lifting height is determined by the place of installation. It is forbidden to use ventilation combined with a chimney; the supply and exhaust for the kitchen must be independent of each other.

Separate ventilation ducts lead to rooms that are needed to solve economic problems. These are dressing rooms, laundry rooms and storage rooms. It is impossible to lay such channels in load-bearing walls. It is also impractical to pull them in the outer walls, where it will lead to the continuous formation of condensate. The laying of ventilation routes for gas also has its own characteristics. It does not matter whether water heaters, heating boilers or stoves for kitchens are installed.

Burning natural gas inevitably reduces the oxygen concentration in the air. Additionally, this causes an increase in the concentration of carbon dioxide, the chimney becomes more and more clogged with soot, the air in the room is rapidly filled with water and dust. And all this is dangerous not only by subjective inconveniences: there is a threat to the health and even life of people. Since in private houses, with the exception of large cottages, boilers more powerful than 30 kW are not installed, it is from this level that one should proceed. Natural supply ventilation of boiler rooms is created with a channel marking, the stock of which is about 1 cm.

The diameters of the air pipes are at least 150 mm. It is necessary to lay them in the openings with a slight slope to the street. To cover empty areas, use mounting foam. The part of the foam that has gone beyond the contour must be cut off after hardening. It will not be possible to exclude clogging with dust in this scheme; the solution to the problem is the use of gratings with filters.

Another grate is mounted on the outlet of the pipe to the street so that small animals and debris do not get inside. The outlet must be located at least 1 m from the boiler. This requirement is intended to prevent cold air from affecting the operation of the gas boiler. You should not rely too much on automation: yes, it is able to compensate for such an impact, but this will only significantly reduce the service life of the product. The natural format of ventilation of boiler rooms, depending on external conditions, allows you to save energy.

Mixed air handling units contain filters, fans and heaters. In boiler rooms, they provide a full-fledged microclimate. Given the capabilities of modern automated boilers, such systems help reduce fuel consumption and stabilize the operation of heating facilities. In boiler rooms, ducted or non-ducted air supply systems can be used. In the first case, its streams are collected together, and then discharged outward naturally or forcibly.

To move the air that is created by gas equipment, rectangular channels based on galvanized steel are most often used. Such systems are mounted easily and simply. The necessary parts are always supplied in the kit. There is almost always no need for auxiliary fittings. Since the size and mass of air ducts are small, you can create them with your own hands.

Requirements for standards and design rules

According to regulatory requirements, all technical solutions in buildings and structures should be focused on providing and maintaining a microclimate that meets the instructions of GOST 30494. You should also be guided by the instructions contained in the 2002 sanitary rules. Even emergency ventilation and smoke protection equipment cannot create a total noise greater than 110 dB, and an impulse noise greater than 125 dB. Anti-corrosion coating of air ducts can be done with flammable paints, but their thickness cannot exceed 0.02 cm.

According to the norms in force in Russia, it is necessary to forcibly set the air in motion if the meteorological characteristics of the terrain do not provide the required parameters for its movement. It may also be due to the need to clean the incoming air masses. Without fail, mechanical ventilation is created in all areas where natural ventilation is completely impossible. Another case where artificial encouragement is indispensable is in areas where the air temperature drops to -40 degrees or less. In such situations, it is also necessary to supplement the pumping systems with heating means.

According to SNiP, air purification from dust should be carried out up to the MPC for a particular settlement or below. The calculation of all systems should be done so that the temperature in the room does not fall below 12 degrees. Ideally, it should be kept within the normalized limits. The lowest point of the part receiving air from outside must be at least 1 m above the stable snow cover and 2 m above the ground. If the territory can be prone to sandstorms, the rise should be made already by 3 m. But the need to protect air receivers from pollen, leaves, twigs, petals, and the like is determined individually, according to the terms of reference.

All points where transit air ducts are laid through walls should be sealed through partitions using fireproof materials. It is forbidden to combine air ducts with gas pipelines, with electrical wiring, communication cables and sewer systems. The ban also includes the approach of all these communications to the pipes and their simple intersection. If there are several ventilation systems (usually supply and exhaust), then the instruments for measuring temperatures and pressures are made the same for all circuits.

According to the current GOST, it is allowed to use only those methods of fixing air-distributing devices to air ducts or to the capital structures of buildings that are provided for in the technical documentation for the products.

Materials and accessories

The arrangement of ventilation in houses from SIP panels has its own characteristics. In this case, since the buildings are lightened to the limit, the simplest ventilation systems are usually used. The exception is houses, the height of which is two or more floors. Even if a house of such panels is built according to the technology of a ventilated facade, an additional air flow will still be needed. The simplest option to ensure its inflow without violating the climatic properties of the premises is to use special valves.

They are mounted mainly immediately in the frames of houses. Such structures are outwardly invisible and do not worsen the appearance of buildings. To connect the supply valves with the frame and floors, you can use plastic or asbestos-cement pipes. It is categorically unacceptable to make metal air ducts. They will significantly increase the noise and weaken the thermal insulation. According to professionals, asbestos-cement slabs as the basis for ventilation of a SIP house are much better than plastic counterparts.

Mechanical ventilation systems in SIP houses can provide cleaning and heating of air simultaneously with pumping. The problem is that without the help of professionals, it can be quite difficult to make such highways. Only very prepared and skillful people will solve such problems successfully. The key link is the hood, which provides rarefaction of air in living rooms. Since the intake of air masses is forced, an increased pressure is formed, which ensures the exit (displacement) of the exhausted part of the atmosphere to the street.

In many frame buildings, they try to make combined ventilation systems. They help maintain optimal air movement with low energy consumption. For a large cottage (180-200 sq.m.) it is required to create 6, 7 or 8 ventilation ducts. If the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe dwelling is less or more, their number also needs to be changed. The pipes form a kind of collector, which is equipped with an exhaust fan.

It is better to use not just mechanical, but fully automated fans. They will need to be connected to the humidity sensors installed in each of the rooms. Then the optimal temperature and humidity conditions will be ensured in any room. The use of infrared measuring devices is not recommended because their cost is prohibitively high. Only professionals calculate the power of fans, because no one will be able to do it right without special training.

For the formation of ventilation lines in private houses, PVC sewer pipes with a cross section of 11 cm are often used. They are almost 3 times more profitable than galvanized counterparts, and the air makes less noise when moving through them. Importantly, such structures can be mounted relatively easily, and the joints will have a high degree of tightness. Such pipes can be equipped with fittings of various types, which makes it possible to make smooth and sharp turns of pipelines at an arbitrary angle.

The smoothness of the inner wall virtually eliminates obstacles to the movement of air flows. And this means not only the minimum “loudness”, but also high ventilation efficiency. Buying such pipes will not be difficult in any city. But it must be borne in mind that all sewer pipes are round; they take up more space than rectangular structures of similar capacity. But the concern about the accumulation of static electricity on plastic pipelines, as practice has shown, has no good reason.

As for the release of toxic substances, nothing can be said here without studying a specific sample. It is only after testing in the laboratory that it becomes clear whether a certain type of plastic is dangerous or not. All that remains for the consumer is to focus on the quality certificates provided by manufacturers and sellers. Before drawing up a ventilation pipe layout, it is necessary to take into account the natural or forced nature of ventilation. Only then will it be possible to use the correct formulas for calculating the cross sections by the throughput level.

Chimneys, or rather, forced exhaust systems, deserve special attention. Although they do not intersect with ventilation and cannot form a single circuit, the tasks to be solved are nevertheless quite close. The weakness of traction in a private house is bad not only by the threat of smoke and carbon monoxide poisoning, not only by soot and soot in the home. Even a slight weakening of it, which can be difficult to notice, turns into excessive fuel consumption, a drop in the efficiency of its combustion and accelerated cooling of the rooms.

Another nuance is that the unstable operation of the hood threatens with a fire. If soot accumulates, one day it may flare up so that even a heat-resistant grade of brick will not withstand. By changing the usual wooden windows with slots to plastic ones, putting steel doors, thereby inevitably weakening the draft. After all, all chimney designs are also designed for this fresh air inflow channel. Therefore, it will be necessary to compensate for the drop-out power of natural ventilation through special techniques.

Wind vanes and wind vanes can be used to deal with the effects of wind or a change in the direction of air movement. Such elements, turning in the direction of flow, block the pipe head and maintain a stable mode of air movement in it. When flowing around such parts, the wind contributes to the formation of rarefied areas above the end of the chimney. The result is enhanced traction without power consumption. Most often, weather vanes are made of stainless steel grades, the sheet thickness should be at least 0.05 cm.

To ensure movement around its axis, the wind vanes are equipped with closed support bearings. Such devices do not require additional maintenance for the entire period of operation. If the product complies with standard standards, the housing does not collect condensate and soot. The only thing that is needed from the owners is to fight the formation of ice crusts. In addition, it is worth considering that weathercock fans work poorly and are unstable if the wind is very strong.

Rotary turbines are an alternative. These devices also use the energy of atmospheric flows. But torsion occurs in one direction, no matter which way the wind is blowing. The ball, assembled according to a special system of "petals", prevents clogging of the pipe with all kinds of dirt and prevents birds and insects from settling. However, when there is no wind at all, this expensive product is almost useless.

The fan smoke exhauster does not depend on weather. It is fundamentally different from the fireplace ventilation device, designed to force draft. The basis of the device is an electric motor, designed to be powered by a conventional home electrical network. It is necessary to use a smoke exhaust fan if you want to create increased draft in the smoke channel for a small fireplace. High-quality designs provide normal ventilation of the hearth even when the chimney channel is heated up to 600 degrees.

How to do it yourself?

It is possible to proceed with the installation of ventilation communications in a private house only after a scheme has been drawn up in accordance with all the rules. But the scheme itself can only be drawn up on the basis of accurate information and estimates:

required air exchange parameters;

created microclimate;

standards for the installation of ventilation equipment;

features and modes of its use.

Russian standards provide that per 1 sq. m of indoor space is required to submit 3 cubic meters. m of air in 60 minutes. But at the same time, one should not forget about the "human" norms - 30 cubic meters each. m per tenant. All this is worth remembering when it comes time to calculate the cross-sections and internal diameters of the channels, their length and the speed of air movement. If the kitchen is equipped with an electric stove, 60 cubic meters must be served there. m of air, and if gas - another 50% more. When possible, it is worth compiling a technical task and entrusting the development of the project to qualified specialists.

As in other technical systems, one should strive to reduce the number of installed parts. It is important to think about things like:

the ability to repair and configure everything with your own hands;

availability of redundant nodes;

ease of management;

reliability in a variety of conditions;

harmonious integration of the ventilation complex into the interior;

economy during installation and use.

All longitudinal seams on air ducts and other elements must look up. Each fastener is tightened to the stop so that the bolts can no longer be turned more strongly. It is possible to put individual parts of communications on the fasteners reserved for them only after installation. When selecting and using fasteners, pay attention to the mass of air ducts. The load from them should not be delivered to the devices.

Without fail, all fasteners are equipped with means to restrain the spread of vibration. Radial fans are supposed to be placed on rigid supports and attached with anchor bolts. The filter blocks must be pulled evenly so that they do not sag. Loose installation of electric motors (in which they are poorly fitted to the fans) is prohibited. It is recommended to check if the fan blades rotate freely.

All openings used for the passage of air are covered with protective grilles with a mesh size of not more than 70 mm. It is also mandatory to minimize the number of bends and turns, as well as intersections and duplicate sections. The sequence of installation work in any case is as follows:

marking positions for the use of fasteners;

assembly of retaining structures;

preparation of air ducts and obtaining components;

formation of single sections of the ventilation system;

merging them into a monolithic complex with fixing in accordance with plans and schemes that meet regulatory requirements.

In residential buildings, unlike industrial facilities, ventilation ducts are most often covered from external view with the help of finishing elements. The selection of a ventilation system for a private house is determined by such considerations as:

building materials of the building and its ceilings;

total area;

intensity of use of the dwelling;

the number of residents;

environmental and sanitary characteristics of street air;

climatic regime of the area;

Rose of Wind;

features of polluting factors in the home environment;

economic feasibility of applying certain solutions;

ensuring comfort and a safe sanitary internal environment;

minimization of fire risks and noise;

no negative impacts on neighboring houses and plots, on the environment.

In private homes, both forced and natural systems can be used. The second option is preferable for buildings made of brick, wood and expanded clay concrete blocks. If the dwelling is equipped with a balcony or loggia, these rooms must be equipped with micro-ventilation devices. But much more often hoods are used that provide condensate drainage. Supply and exhaust devices should be used in rooms that do not have windows.

Forced supply and exhaust type of ventilation is recommended for ventilation of built-in garages and home boiler rooms. In a mixed system, a convector is responsible for the inflow, additional functions of which are heating, filtering and disinfecting the incoming air. Ultraviolet emitters are widely used to combat harmful microorganisms.

The use of recuperators helps to exclude hypothermia of the serviced premises in winter.

Phased installation involves the installation of:

filter systems;

heater;

fan;

recuperator;

air conditioning systems.

If there is no need to put some block, it is simply skipped. But the general order does not need to be changed. Air conditioning units are placed last, just in front of the discharge hole. Domestic ventilation ducts passing through unheated roofs must be covered with thermal insulation. When it is planned to combine inflow and outflow, care must be taken to install exhaust fans. Electrical lines are laid last, immediately before they are connected; be sure to ground them.

When the ventilation systems are divided into sections, the networks for each of them are assembled separately. Pre-start tests of all units must be carried out without fail.

Drilling inputs and outputs is supposed to be with a small slope in the direction of the street. This is important for the full outflow of condensate. Hole diameter - at least 120-130 mm.

It is advisable to install wall valves in the interval from the window sill to the heating radiator. In the wall, you need to ditch the passage, the cross section of which ranges from 50 to 60 mm. A pipe enters the hole. Then you need to fix the outer and inner distributors. Subsequent cleaning of the valve should be done every 6 months or even more frequently.

Means that activate the air extraction in a private house are placed mainly in kitchens (above stoves) and in bathrooms. The current consumption of such systems is small, it is possible to feed them with electricity taken from the light bulb regulators. It is possible to exclude mixing, mutual overlapping of flows rushing from toilets and bathtubs due to a non-return valve. Air can easily pass through it, but the reverse movement is impossible. Small modifications are fixed on:

• original fasteners offered by the manufacturer.

When choosing a product, it is necessary to look not only at compliance with the project. A very important point for the high-quality operation of the valve is isolation from water. Experts note that silent systems consume more electricity during operation. The experience of using different versions led to the conclusion that the case made of acrylic and polyisopropylene is characterized by increased strength. Outlet through the wall is not the only way to ensure air inflow, there is also the possibility of installing products (or preparing passages) in window blocks or separately.

Having opened the frame, cut off the outer seal from it below, the length of which does not exceed 50 mm. The removed piece of material is kept in storage because it may suddenly need to be returned. A similar part of the inner seal is cut off at the top. The principle is extremely simple:

street air passes into the lower channel;

passing through the internal cavity of the frame, the flow is heated;

an improved portion of air from above is thrown into the room.

But such a measure, for all its simplicity and ease of execution, is acceptable only in the southern regions. Wherever severe frosts can occur, the outer opening will freeze and stop working. In addition, there is no way to filter or intensely heat the air. Valves are more perfect in this regard, but they have their drawbacks:

many walls can only be pierced with special tools;

drilling will be accompanied by the release of a mass of fine dust;

assessment of the quality of thermal protection of a wooden or stone wall in a drilled place is possible only in winter - when it is almost impossible to quickly eliminate the shortcomings;

heating, filtering, drying and humidifying the air are possible only with the use of electrical systems.

In a residential cottage where a heating boiler is installed, it is the distributed air duct system that is most often used. The reason is that any heating boilers absorb a lot of air during their operation. Neither natural circulation nor valves can make up for the resulting loss. The preferred location of the inflow is at the entrance to the dwelling or in the corridor. After all, it is these points that are guaranteed to communicate with all the others, and the air jets will need to overcome the smallest possible distance.

The air duct box can be made not only in steel and plastic; good results in some cases gives corrugated aluminum. To make the intersections of the elements impenetrable, you can use both sealants (they are produced in a lot) and insulating tape. Pipes are fixed to the ceiling with the help of suspensions, carefully choosing their design. Mounting on the walls is carried out using special clamps. To contain noise and vibrations, it is allowed to use foam or foam rubber.

During the pre-launch test, you need to check:

lack of vibration;

ensuring design and/or standard performance;

normal operation of all installed parts and control devices;

correct distribution of air in accordance with the planned calculations;

completeness of smoke removal in the kitchen;

the usefulness of the release of baths and toilets from moisture, from bad and strong odors;

lack of flaws in all fasteners and joints;

lack of short circuits and improper operation of electrical circuits;

uniformity of temperature adjustment during the operation of heating devices.

A common misconception is that in a wooden house the walls themselves provide a full passage of air. Even for log buildings built in accordance with modern requirements, this is no longer the case. The problem is even more acute in a frame dwelling with basic wooden elements. If this consideration is not enough, it is important to look at the following:

the tree is easily saturated with moisture and rots;

without full pumping, the natural ability of wood to pass air will not allow you to establish its correct change anyway;

natural circulation does not allow warm air;

carbon dioxide, excess heat and moisture contained in the air do not escape through wooden structures.

Natural ventilation in a wooden house is usually laid immediately during construction. Vertical channels are made first in the basements, and then in other parts of the dwelling. In the basements, vents are being prepared, and the supply channel is mounted at the basement level. Recommendation: it is advisable to install it from the north, since there the temperature difference is greatest, as well as the draft it creates. If the house occupies a large area, it is required to form several channels at once.

The organization of ventilation in brick houses differs markedly from the scheme just described. Hoods must be made in full compliance with fire safety requirements. All hoods are also equipped with insulating grilles; if they are also made of brick, it is imperative to create special pockets that will allow you to remove accumulated soot and dust. The air supply inside the brick building is provided by a fan placed close to the window. But to dump the exhaust air mass, it is placed in the channel opposite the window opening.

Channels are laid in any case according to templates. For their manufacture, boards with a size of 140x2500x25 mm are used. Such parts are provided with incisions, each of which coincides in diameter with the ventilation passage. If the area of ​​the room is 30 sq. m or less, a recess of 14x14 cm is quite enough for it. But the rise of the channel masonry above the roof surface should be at least 7 bricks.

When working, you need to make sure that each seam is perfectly closed with a solution. Only then will the infiltration of smoke, fumes, soot and soot into the serviced space be excluded. All rooms where there is no natural circulation, in a brick house, it is three times more important to provide artificial air supply. It will also have to be mechanically removed. It is unacceptable to have cracks and extraneous holes, cracks in the wall, inside which cold air is supplied.

Frame buildings made of timber, operated only in the summer months, may not be equipped with ventilation systems. But if they are nevertheless created, the heat exchanger should be supplemented with a bypass. Then, on hot days, the extra heating of outdoor air can be canceled without intrusion into the design of the air ducts. You can use both conventional and monoblock complexes. The second option is distinguished by enhanced noise protection, and therefore it is ideal for private housing.

Many projects of frame houses are initially supplemented with special openings, which were originally designed to carry out the required communications. This opportunity should not be denied. Plastic pipes for air supply and exhaust are ideal in frame buildings because they:

cheaper than steel

not subject to the destructive action of condensate;

do not turn into cold bridges.

The minimum size of horizontal channels is 10x10 cm. For horizontal pipelines, this figure starts from 12x12 cm. It is imperative to use window frames (along with walls) to accommodate the inflow valves. It is recommended to install ventilation ducts near the air ducts serving gas boilers. If the house is equipped with a conventional stove, the discharge channel is brought as close as possible to this device.

The hood in a one-story house is often enhanced by the addition of a domestic fan. This approach is quite convenient and allows you to eliminate the spread of bad odors throughout the house. But ensuring the normal operation of the system is impossible without leaving gaps separating the floor from the doors. An additional improvement is often central air conditioning. However, its use is hampered by the fact that very thick pipes will have to be drawn.

They take up a lot of space, are not always practical and comfortable in appearance. The cost of such a device is not available to all people. But regardless of the season, it will provide the same level of heating of any premises. In a two-story residential building, the problems are somewhat different. Here, the support of normal air circulation in the sanitary facilities and kitchens occupying different tiers comes to the fore.

For your information: the usual technical solutions used in two-story buildings often create increased noise. It is necessary to immediately prepare for this and actively extinguish extraneous sounds. At the same time, the ventilation power of problematic premises should not be reduced - the air in them should change 10 times in 60 minutes. Professionals consider the use of a supply and exhaust natural configuration and a heat exchanger to be the best solution to the problem.

The main ventilation unit in the house, both with a full-fledged second floor and with an attic, must pump at least 400 cubic meters per hour. m of air.

But the larger the ventilated area, the stronger the installation must be. It is recommended to use decentralized recuperators. Such devices are mounted in separate rooms, while there is no need for air duct systems. Positive results are reflected even in adjacent rooms.

Proper air movement is ensured by placing the receiving and releasing holes on opposite walls. But their area should be strictly identical, only then the passage of air flows will be normal. Recommendation: it is more correct to replace the upper grille with a pipe that rises above the roof. In this case, the overall efficiency will only increase further. It is advisable to equip the sewerage system with a separate ventilation system.

Fan pipes are made from the same materials as the waste riser. For their implementation, the channel that is provided for by the design of the house is used. Important: if the architects did not initially attend to such a moment, a horizontal outlet to the wall should be used. Since the drain in a private house is small, the passage of smells by the septic tank is also very limited. The inner sides are insulated using roofing material or bitumen, and the outer ones are covered with clay by 350 mm or a little more.

There are also subtleties in the arrangement of ventilation in houses made of aerated concrete. Often they make central channels from reliable grades of galvanized steel. Warming of passages helps to exclude the occurrence of condensate. Alternatives to such measures are laying out a brick airway or sleeving with a carefully constructed plastic closure. Aerated concrete premises are ventilated at least 5 times per hour.

Air ducts can be made of galvanized material, asbestos cement, or plastic with the appropriate characteristics. It is necessary to lay channels in all rooms without exception. The mains used to remove exhaust air merge together in the attic or at ceiling level. At the same time, high-quality insulation of their conclusions to the roof is extremely important. For forced ventilation of aerated concrete buildings, pipes with a cross section of 130 mm are used; natural channels are made of pipes 150 mm.

Experienced builders believe that laying channels inside the walls is impractical. In this case, you may encounter condensation and a decrease in the thermal characteristics of the home. In aerated concrete houses, special shafts or partitions separating internal walls are used to accommodate drainage and underwater channels. The best solution is sleeved with a plastic part with holes cut to the required size.

Arrangement of air circulation of built-in premises

But just supplying portions of fresh air from the outside is not enough - both in a wooden house and in an aerated concrete structure, this is equally true. For if the freshness touches only the immediate conclusion and does not go further, all meaning will be lost. Ventilation should also ensure the circulation of air masses. For a cold attic in the classical scheme, an adjustable system is required, in which the rafters and the crate are not closed. If this approach does not suit you, you need to use a casing with gaps through which the gas will move freely and unrestricted.

Ondulin and slate are supposed to be laid without the use of films that restrain the movement of air or water vapor. They will also pass through the metal tile well, but you may encounter condensation. Channels for air access on a gable roof are made in gables. With tight junctions and sewing, as well as in the manufacture of stone gables, you will have to prepare holes in the walls. The total area of ​​ventilation ducts on any floor, including the attic, should be at least 0.2% of the total area.

To save money, they put standard gratings (one with adjustment, and the other with holes turned down). Be sure to cover the grilles with mosquito nets so that insects are guaranteed not to get inside. This approach is not required for hip roof ventilation. There, the air inlet is prepared at the bottom (in the filing), and for its output, a hole is prepared near the ridge itself. When using a flexible roof, a turtle-shaped valve or a ridge with a ventilation function is recommended.

It is widely believed that attic ventilation leads to loss of warm air. In reality, such cases occur only through the fault of non-professional builders or designers. They launch such a myth in order to justify their own mistakes and shortcomings in their work. Ventilation systems must be distinguished by increased strength, because otherwise they will not endure the resulting loads. It is recommended to bring the holes as close to the ridge as possible.

It is allowed to install inseparable spotlights under the cornices. But if such products are installed, they must be equipped with a thin mesh (plastic or aluminum so that there is no corrosion). Supply components should be installed in the cleanest place. The distance from the suction equipment to the exhaust fan should be at least 8 m. The installation of a heat exchanger is very useful.

When the organization of the basement (basement) is provided for in the project of a private house, it is necessary to consider equipping its walls with holes for natural air exchange. This takes into account:

composition and mechanical structure of the soil;

relief of the territory;

prevailing wind directions;

the depth of laying the foundation and its type;

mode of use;

groundwater height.

According to professionals, 1 hole should fall on 2-3 m of the wall. A few more of them are made when construction is carried out in a lowland. With a clear lack of ventilation, an additional supply and exhaust system is used. Floor ventilation is very important, sometimes even more than basement ventilation. If it is not provided, even the strongest and most beautiful boards will quickly be destroyed by mold and other fungi.

Air is blown through the underground space through holes made in the foundation. Pipes are laid there, working for the inflow. They try to bring them as close as possible to the hood; if this is not possible, simultaneously increase the diameter of the inlet hole. If during the first months of using the dwelling, ventilation proves to be insufficiently effective, additional holes have to be punched. But it is much easier and better to do everything right when pouring a concrete base.

Due to the variety of layouts and operating conditions of suburban real estate, in each case, do-it-yourself ventilation is designed individually in a private house. The circuit must provide the minimum allowable air exchange rate. In a kitchen with a four-burner stove, used air must be replaced with new air at a rate of 90 cubic meters per hour. In living rooms, 30 cubic meters per person is enough, or air exchange three times per hour of the total volume. More in this material.

Country cottage ventilation scheme

To reduce the operating budget, do-it-yourself natural ventilation is usually used in a private house, the diagram of which is presented below. The principle of air exchange in it is as follows:

• outdoor air enters the premises through the cracks of window blocks;
• heats up, moves naturally under the doors to the bathroom and kitchen;
• in the functional premises (kitchen + bathroom), ventilation ducts are arranged inside the main walls, through which the exhaust air masses are removed due to natural draft.

Such a do-it-yourself ventilation scheme in a private house has significant drawbacks:

• modern window units (double-glazed windows inside the PVC profile) are absolutely hermetic;
• to improve the sound insulation of rooms, undercutting of door panels is not used, which disrupts the exchange inside the premises.

Therefore, supply valves are used, cut into window blocks, or ventilation of rooms with open transoms, vents. Sometimes it is advisable to cut into the outer walls of supply fans or recuperators.

If regular ventilation ducts do not provide sufficient draft, do-it-yourself exhaust ventilation is used in a private house, the diagram of which is also available below. The main disadvantage of forced ventilation systems is energy dependence.

Helpful information! Fans of axial, centrifugal type, installed inside ventilation ducts, solid external walls, have an electric drive. Power outages can only be compensated by expensive generators, batteries or UPS (uninterruptible power) supplies.

General information about the organization of ventilation in the house (video)

Related article:

In a separate publication, we will talk about the principles of organizing high-quality ventilation in an apartment and the correct selection of equipment.

System composition, step-by-step installation

It will help in designing ventilation in a private house with your own hands, a diagram and preparation of a set of drawings with floor plans. The main element of any ventilation system is the duct:

• ventilation duct - made only inside brick walls;
• box - made of steel sheet, polymeric materials, ceramics, concrete products.

Exhaust air ducts have the maximum cross section. For example, for a single air exchange in a cottage of 300 squares with natural air exchange, a pipe with a diameter of 35 cm or a channel of 40 x 25 cm is required. Inside the brickwork, such structures are made without problems.

If the house is built from other structural materials, problems automatically arise with the placement, decoration of pipes or boxes of such large sizes. Therefore, the cross section of the duct is reduced, forced ventilation is designed in a private house (a do-it-yourself scheme can also be performed without problems when studying the basic requirements of regulatory documentation).

How to organize ventilation?

To update the air masses in a private house, first of all, supply ventilation is used. It is not difficult to draw up a scheme with your own hands, having figured out the layout and features of your home. There are several types of ventilation that are not equally useful for the microclimate of interiors:

• the door + windows are open - the air is updated within 5 minutes, however, harmful drafts are formed;

• a transom or window is ajar - the complete replacement of the exhaust air masses with new ones occurs in 40-60 minutes, however, the slopes, window blocks cool down, condensation is possible;

• windows are open - this option is the best, because in 10 minutes the structures do not have time to cool down, the air in the room is completely renewed.

But it is extremely inconvenient for residents to engage in airing every hour. Therefore, a saving solution if you do not want to install a full-fledged air handling unit are wall / window valves.

Ensuring inflow

The window valve has several varieties. To install some models, it is necessary to mill an oval slot in the operated PVC profile. This is reflected in the strength of the window block (the profile is reinforced with foil, inside which it is not recommended to make large holes), sound insulation.

Slotted overhead valves are more convenient in installation. To do this, it is enough to remove the seal in a separate area (usually the upper part of the transom), screw the valve body.

In high-performance modifications of supply type dampers, the external air intake is connected to the internal adjustment mechanism of the telescopic chamber. The valve element, installed indoors, has a filter, outlet nozzles, a labyrinth duct system.

Helpful information! All window valves of the supply type are non-volatile. They will not work in buildings with leaky door and window blocks, in the absence of 2 cm gaps under the inner door leafs.

The capacity of window valves is usually sufficient for residential areas. However, in kitchens with gas 4-burner stoves, ovens, these devices cannot provide the required air exchange for these rooms. Therefore, wall valves are mounted, having the following design:

Related article:

Such a device can sometimes be a real salvation from stuffiness and a bad microclimate. Let's take a closer look at the nuances of its selection and installation.

Conventional valves are mounted above the registers so that the winter air is warmed by ascending convection currents. The recuperators use the "pipe in pipe" scheme, so the incoming masses are heated by outgoing flows. They are installed in any convenient place, regardless of the location of the batteries, walls.

More complex are ventilation systems using. Boxes or pipes are passed inside the spaces of suspended / stretch ceilings, releasing branch pipes in separate areas of the room.

Helpful advice! When organizing a forced inflow by fans, the built-in ventilation ducts of the natural ventilation system are guaranteed not to cope with the removal of large volumes of exhausted "dirty" air. Therefore, it will be necessary to install exhaust fans inside them.

If the supply ventilation in a private house is built by hand, the scheme is no less important than the calculation of the cross section of the ducts. The main recommendations for the home master are:

• hoods are mounted in the most "dirty" rooms (high humidity, odors, thermal radiation);
• air flow must be organized from the farthest room in relation to the kitchen, bathroom;
• for this, gratings or slots in the door leafs or under them are used.

Do-it-yourself forced ventilation in a private house, the scheme and composition of which is available below, consists of complex elements:

• the comfort of living with the electrical equipment turned on is provided by a noise suppressor (silencer);
• circulation is created by a fan;
• the intake air is heated by a heater;
• filters clean the street air;
• flow is regulated by valves;
• the distribution of masses within the system is carried out by diffusers, gratings.

Recuperators are responsible for energy saving, heat loss reduction, but they are effective up to certain outdoor air temperatures. Therefore, in frosts, heaters are additionally included. In summer, the recuperators operate in the air conditioner mode by default, reducing the load on the climatic equipment of the cottage.

Related article:

What is this device? How does it work? What are its benefits? Is it difficult to do it yourself? We will answer these and other questions in a special publication. Read!

With a significant working area of ​​a suburban dwelling, air exchange can reach 600-800 cubic meters per hour. Powerful, large equipment requires space for placement and maintenance. Therefore, either special rooms inside the house, underground, or an unused attic are used.

Helpful information! The minimum flow resistance is observed in tubular ducts. But rectangular ventilation ducts are easier to attach to supporting structures, mask under false panels, ceilings. Flexible corrugated pipes are used in short sections where several complex bends are needed.

Thus, a home master can design and install natural and forced ventilation systems in a country house on his own without the involvement of specialists. This will provide a comfortable microclimate, reduce diseases among family members, but will require knowledge of regulatory documentation and building skills.

How to make ventilation in the house (video)

In most cases, modern building and finishing materials provide for the creation of a sealed structure. This fact requires a special approach to the construction of a high-quality ventilation system. This is especially true for rooms with high humidity. How to make the ventilation of a private house, and will be discussed in our article.

Of course, the best option would be to design ventilation at the stage of building construction. But this fact is not the main requirement for the system.

Effective ventilation in a private house is evidenced by the supply of fresh air in the amount of 2.5-3.5 m³ / h. The system itself must be:

• silent;
• economical;
• uninterrupted.

Regardless of the ventilation scheme of a private house, you need to take care of high-quality air flow. The flow has one goal - the movement of air flows should end in the most polluted room (in the bathroom or kitchen).

In this room, exhaust equipment is installed, to which the exhaust air enters through the overflow grilles in the doors. Air flow can also be carried out by creating a gap (2.5 cm will be enough) between the bottom of the doors and the floor.

Particular attention is paid to the correct selection and installation of ventilation pipes in a private house. Their minimum cross section is 15 * 15 cm. Pipes must:

• withstand wind loads at gusts up to 30 m / s (installation of a too thin pipe is unacceptable, as it will break);
• be light in weight;
• be resistant to corrosion;
• exceed the level of the ridge in such a way that a rarefaction of air flows is created, and not reverse thrust.

The best option for ventilation is the use of plastic pipes, which have a smooth surface and excellent antistatic characteristics. The possibility of fitting PVC pipes facilitates the installation process. The only thing that should be considered when laying pipes is to create a minimum number of turns and branches. Each branch reduces the efficiency of the ventilation system of a private house by 8-10%.

Types of ventilation systems

There are two types of ventilation:

• natural;
• mechanical.

In turn, the mechanical ventilation system is divided into:

• supply;
• exhaust;
• supply and exhaust;
• with heat recovery.

The choice of a specific ventilation system depends on the characteristics of the air exchange in the room. After all, a comfortable stay in the room depends not only on the presence of fresh air (or its temperature), but also on the speed of movement of flows (it should be minimal).

Naturally, the rate of air exchange of natural ventilation (about 1 m³/h) is significantly lower than the rate of mechanical ventilation (from 3 to 5 m³/h). The presence of effective natural air exchange will create the most optimal conditions for people to stay indoors.

This does not apply to cases where forced air exchange is indispensable:

• the maximum possible diameter of the channel is necessary at a low speed of movement of air flows;
• when it is impossible to create a channel with a large cross section.

The process of ventilating a private house with your own hands consists of two main steps:

• determining the location of ventilation elements (equipment, air ducts, places for extracting exhaust air and supplying fresh air);
• purchase and installation of air ducts and equipment.

Air ducts are of 3 types:

• round;
• rectangular;
• flexible.

Round and rectangular products have a smooth surface. But unlike rectangular round air ducts are characterized by minimal resistance to air flow.

The flexible material, due to the uneven corrugated coating, is characterized by the greatest resistance. But even flexible air ducts cannot be dispensed with in places where the channel has several branches (for example, in the case of connecting a kitchen hood to the main channel).

Natural ventilation device in a private house

Normal ventilation of the room is achieved due to a good supply of fresh air from the street with the correct movement through the ventilation duct.

Natural ventilation in a private house is carried out by:

• opening vents, windows or doors;
• use of supply valves.

Vents, windows and doors

This option involves ventilation of the room using:

1. Open window for ventilation (plastic window). It is fraught with maximum heat losses and the occurrence of condensate on the slopes and the window block in winter. Air exchange occurs within 40-70 minutes.
2. Fully open windows. Structures are not cooled excessively. 6-10 minutes is enough to ventilate the room.
3. Open windows and front door. You will have to leave the ventilated rooms, as there is a draft. Ventilation of the premises occurs within 3-4 minutes.

All these methods of ventilation of a private house are necessarily used if the walls are finished with airtight heat-insulating material and metal-plastic windows are installed. If, for some reason, ventilation by opening vents, windows and doors is not an acceptable option (small child, sick family members), then you should use the supply valves.

Supply valves

The main characteristic of metal-plastic windows is tightness. After sealing the gaps between the windows and the wall with mounting foam and slopes with cement mortar, air will not naturally penetrate into the house. To solve the problem of airing the room, they resort to installing supply valves.

If the windows will only be mounted, then it is possible to order blocks with inlet window valves. They are a built-in opening through which the supply of fresh air is regulated.

With windows installed, you will have to use the supply wall valves, which are round pipes. The branch pipes are inserted into the wall and are closed with gratings on both sides. The air intake is regulated by the internal valve grille.

The bedroom, hall and dining room are the best places to install air inlets. This is due to the fact that the correct movement of air flows must be observed (from living rooms to the bathroom, toilet or kitchen).

Valves are placed near windows. Preferably behind radiators. In this case, fresh air will enter the room already heated.

mechanical ventilation

Exhaust ventilation

The exhaust type of air exchange in the room involves the use of an exhaust fan, which is installed in the channel (usually attached to the wall). Installation of fans takes place in the most "dirty" rooms: a bathroom and a kitchen.

The range of exhaust fans is diverse:

1. With humidity sensor (for bathroom). Operate until normal humidity is established.
2. Attached to an electrical switch. The hood turns on with a delay of several seconds after the light is turned on / off.
3. With noise-absorbing bushings made of rubber or metal.

To select a specific model for the exhaust ventilation device of a private house, the exhaust flow and pressure loss are calculated when the air moves through the channel. These indicators are determined based on the length and material of the duct.

The fan power has a direct effect on the amount of exhaust air removed. Moreover, the effective operation of exhaust ventilation directly depends on the quality of the influx of cold air from the street. In fact, ventilation with an extract serves as an addition to natural air exchange.

When laying air ducts, you can use the following scheme:

• the main elements are made as rigid as possible from a galvanized sheet;
• corrugated material is used for branching;
• to prevent the occurrence of condensate, the air ducts from the ventilation equipment to the exhaust grille are insulated.

Forced ventilation

The principle of operation of the supply ventilation of a private house is similar to the operation of exhaust equipment. The only difference is that the fan blows fresh air. The removal of exhaust air occurs through channels designed for natural air exchange.

The fan supplying the room with fresh air can be equipped with a heating element. The performance of the ventilation system depends on the diameter of the duct. Lack of forced ventilation - large heat losses in winter.

Supply and exhaust ventilation

Based on the name, it is easy to guess that the operation of this type of air exchange is based on the use of various fans. The simplest ventilation system provides:

• supply of fresh air by blowing fans;
• removal of exhaust air by exhaust equipment.

In winter, air flows coming from the street can be heated. Thanks to the supply and exhaust ventilation, effective ventilation of the rooms is achieved. The only "minus" of such air exchange is the large cash costs for its maintenance.

For this reason, today the demand for supply and exhaust systems with heat recovery has increased, which allow saving on heating.

Ventilation with heat recovery

In winter, too much heat is spent on heating the fresh air coming from the street. To prevent this, recuperators are used for the ventilation system. Thanks to their installation, heat savings are at the level of 50%.

Air recuperation can occur at different times of the year:

• when severe frost sets in, the heat exchanger brings the temperature in the room to +20ºС with the help of a built-in heating element;
• on hot days, on the contrary, the incoming air is cooled (cool exhaust air passes through the heat exchanger and cools the incoming flows).

The performance of the ventilation system depends on the recovery factor. This indicator indicates the amount of heat energy spent to heat the fresh air coming from the street. It is better to use rotary heat exchangers with a coefficient of 75-85%.

When purchasing equipment, it should be noted that some manufacturers indicate a recovery factor of 98-99%. This indicator is based on the results of laboratory studies. In practice, the minimum recovery factor for high quality equipment will be 85%.

As for the installation site of the heat exchanger, it is better to determine it in advance. Usually, a utility room or attic is chosen to accommodate equipment. When installing the heat exchanger in the attic, the equipment should be covered with heat-insulating material. Otherwise, the coolant will freeze, and the heat exchanger will fail.

Features of creating ventilation in a room with gas

Ventilation of the room where the gas boiler is installed is a prerequisite. Gas combustion products have a harmful effect on the human body and lead to the development of serious diseases. In addition, they are also explosive.

Gas ventilation in a private house can be any of the above (both natural and mechanical). It all comes down to the following rules:

1. Absolute tightness of the ventilation system. The seams where the elements of the chimney are connected are sealed with a heat-resistant sealant. Air ducts are covered with thermal insulation material.
2. A maximum of 2 gas appliances can be connected to one duct. Even if the equipment is at a decent distance from each other.
3. The ventilation duct should only go outside.
4. The choice of fans is based on the power of the gas boiler. To support the combustion process, a sufficient supply of oxygen is carried out. Otherwise, the boiler will be covered with soot, and its performance will be significantly reduced. A drop in oxygen levels is fraught with the occurrence of reverse thrust.
5. Laying of air ducts for a geyser is carried out in a strictly vertical position. The length of the chimney must exceed 4 m, and its upper part must protrude above the roof at a level of 1 m. It is recommended to insulate the air ducts.
6. The use of a gas stove in the kitchen is recommended with a ceiling height of more than 2.2 m. The ventilation duct should be located at the top of the room.

Creating a ventilation system from scratch involves the following actions:

• the location of the hole for the duct is marked;
• holes are made with a puncher in the middle and around the circumference;
• with the help of a hammer and a chisel, the wall covering is knocked out from the middle;
• an air duct is inserted;
• the gaps between the wall and the duct are sealed with a sealant;
• an exhaust fan is attached;
• ventilation grill is installed.

The chimney device for a gas column consists of the following steps:

• fixing the inlet pipe to the wall;
• connection of the branch pipe with a rotary element at an angle of 90º (the column will be attached from the inside);
• installation of pipes from the bottom up (clamps are used to connect them);
• uniform distribution of fasteners throughout the pipe (a distance of 2 m is enough) with their subsequent fixation to the wall;
• checking the operability of the system (effective ventilation is evidenced by the slope of the flame of a lit match towards the pipe).

Video about the ventilation device in a private house:

Air exchange is necessary for any building. The cottage is no exception. Even in a wooden house, ventilation is important, because structures made not only from wood are used for its cladding and insulation.

If this moment is missed, then dampness will accumulate in the premises and conditions will be created for the development of unnecessary microflora, including mold fungi.

For this reason, even at the stage of designing a house, in order to create a healthy atmosphere for humans and extend the life of the building, it is important to think over the ventilation system by choosing the right type and making calculations.

Depending on the complexity of the device and the method of supplying and removing air from the premises, ventilation is divided into three types.

natural ventilation

This option is a system of air exchange that occurs independently according to the laws of physics: due to the temperature difference inside the house and on the street, or due to the creation of conditions for the occurrence of a through wind.

This option is the simplest and carried out due to the presence of two elements:

• a vertical ventilation duct that opens into the room on one side and outwards on the other;
• window and door openings.

The benefits of such ventilation include:

• simplicity;
• small set-up costs;
• independence from electricity;
• saturation of the room with natural air.

However, it is precisely with the last point that negative aspects of such a system:

• the risk of excessive cooling of the air in the house;
• ingress of dust, burning and other pollutants from the street into the living quarters.

Therefore, natural ventilation in a private house is recommended to be used only in environmentally friendly areas remote from the city.

Forced ventilation

If the outdoor air leaves much to be desired, then you should think about a more expensive, but at the same time reliable and safe air exchange option. We are talking about supply and exhaust ventilation in a private house. The essence of its work is that the air is forcibly taken from the street, subjected to filtration, and, if necessary, humidification and heating.

The processed air masses through special ventilation ducts distributed throughout the house enter the bedrooms, hall, kitchen and other rooms of the house, and are removed from the rooms using an exhaust system.

The owner of the house can control such ventilation using a remote control, or control and adjustment is carried out automatically.

Mixed ventilation

This is a hybrid of the two systems described above with a small caveat. The fan is often needed not at the stage of air intake from the outside, but, on the contrary, for the forced evacuation of air masses. This is usually required in bathrooms and kitchens, as well as in boiler rooms. An example is the familiar kitchen hood.

Any of these systems can be organized in your home both independently and by specialists.

Do-it-yourself ventilation arrangement in a private house

Installation of the exhaust system inside the house should be carried out even during construction work. The arrangement of house ventilation includes several points:

• choice of system type;
• selection of the type of exhaust shafts;
• project preparation;
• direct installation.

The last stage is quite simple, especially for a natural system. The main thing is to correctly carry out all the preparatory work.

Which ventilation system to choose?

In addition to the environmental situation of the area in which it is planned to build a house, to choose the type of ventilation system, you need to know what material will be used to build the building.

Natural air exchange can be used in clean areas for a small house built from:

• bricks;
• wooden beam or log;
• foam block;
• cinder block;
• gas block;
• expanded clay block;
• ceramic block.

As an option for natural ventilation for a large house, which has a bathroom and an actively used kitchen, it is a mixed type with the installation of elements of a forced system.

In any case, when choosing natural ventilation, it is necessary to take care of the presence of air flow. either through gaps in windows, or through supply valves located in window frames or in walls facing the street.

If the house has an impressive size and / or is not located in the cleanest area, then you can not do without a forced ventilation system. It is also used in the case when the structure is made according to Canadian technology, as well as from such innovative materials as:

• Sandwich panels;
• MDM panels;
• SOTA panels;
• 3D panels;
• SIP panels;
• expanded polystyrene concrete;
• vacuum panels.

After choosing the type of system, it is necessary to determine the type of duct.

Varieties of ventilation pipes

Pipelines used in air exchange systems may differ in cross-sectional shape and in the material from which they are made. An important parameter is the cost of production, but it’s not worth it to save thoughtlessly and it’s better first of all, pay attention to the parameters and quality of pipes.

1. The shape of the pipe can most often be round or square (rectangular). Spiral ducts have the best aerodynamic performance. Rectangular ducts with a rectangular or square cut are heavy and can create noise, but they are easier to install and hide when decorating the room due to the compactness of such products, which makes them more popular for use in private homes. Round ducts are preferred for ventilation in industries where practicality is more important than aesthetics.
2. Ventilation ducts can be rigid or flexible. The former are easy to operate and install, and more reliable, but they are heavier and require the use of fasteners that can securely hold them. Flexible products are a metal or plastic corrugated hose, which is lightweight, easy to operate and install. But the inner surface of such a duct is not smooth, and this increases the aerodynamic resistance, which reduces the air flow rate and leads to the accumulation of pollution. The corrugated sleeve is used in areas where it is necessary to turn the duct several times, and also when there is no need for a high flow rate. A flexible duct is often used for kitchen hoods.
3. Another important difference is the material from which the pipes are made. Plastic air ducts are often used in the construction of forced exhaust. These products have a smooth inner surface and are resistant to aggressive media. They are also easy to install. However, the disadvantage of plastic is static electricity, which attracts dust to the inner surface of the pipe.

Plastic on a metal base more perfect, does not require an additional heat-insulating layer. The main disadvantage is the high price.

Galvanized stainless steel ducts are heat-resistant, they are heavier and more massive and are more often used in industrial enterprises. Galvanized stainless steel pipe tolerates high humidity well.

Compared to metal or plastic, then it is better to focus on polymer products, since they do not create noise during air turbulence, are easier to install and cheaper, and also look more aesthetically pleasing. Sometimes they even use not ventilation, but sewer plastic pipes to create ventilation at home. This is quite acceptable if you make smooth transitions at the joints of the pipes. But plastic is not fire resistant, so it should not be used near chimneys.

Drafting a project: how to properly ventilate a private house?

Before purchasing materials, it is necessary to make a drawing of the ventilation system of the house, indicating the direction of movement of air masses, that is, from where the air enters the room and how it is removed. It is better to entrust this to professionals, especially when it comes to the forced air exchange option.

The scheme of natural ventilation can be drawn independently. To do this, you need to take into account the universal rule. According to him, the room with the dirtiest air should be at the end of the chain. It is for this reason that the air outlet is placed in the kitchen or bathroom. The place of inflow during natural ventilation is most often windows during ventilation, valves in window frames or walls. The duct opening through which the exhaust air will be removed is brought to the roof to a certain height.

At the design stage of the system, it is also important to calculate the air exchange and, accordingly, the required cross-section of the pipeline. It is better to leave these works to specialists, especially when it comes to forced air exchange. The basis of the natural exhaust system is vertical channels, the calculation stage of design is reduced to determining the section, height and number of which.

In the calculation, air exchange rates are most often used. It takes into account how many times within an hour it is necessary to carry out a complete replacement of indoor air. When calculating this indicator for a private house, several actions must be taken:

1. Determine the volume of each room in the house, for which you need to multiply the area and the height of each of them.
2. After that, it is necessary to calculate the air exchange by the multiplicity for each room according to the formula:

L=n*V, Where

L– required performance;

n- the multiplicity of the premises, which is a normalized indicator specified in Appendix 4 of SNiP 2.08.01-89 * "Residential buildings" (FIGURE 1);

V- the volume of the room.

The table indicates the norms for either inflow or outflow of air, and in some cases it simply indicates the recommended volume of air exchange.

For example, there is a bedroom with an area of ​​18 m 2 and a ceiling height of 2.5 m. In accordance with the regulations, the multiplicity for this room is 1. Thus, the ventilation performance is equal to the volume of the room, which can be calculated by multiplying the height by the area. In our case, L=45 m 3 /h.

You can also calculate the air exchange by area, for example, for rooms that are not listed in the table. According to this calculation, for every 1 m 2 every hour, 3 m 3 of clean air must be supplied. For the same bedroom, which is described in the previous example, the amount of air exchange over the area is 54 m 3 / h.

The productivity obtained for all rooms is summed up. At the end, the total volume of inflow is compared with the total volume of outflow. These indicators are rarely equal, but choose the larger one and use it to calculate the ventilation ducts.

The height of the shaft for natural ventilation depends on the height of the building itself. For a simplified determination of the number of channels, you can use the table provided for a standard duct, the cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200bwhich is 204 cm 2. Using the simple proportion method, you can calculate the throughput for channels of any area. So, a pipe 4 meters long and 15 cm in diameter can pass about 33 m 3 per hour.

The previously calculated total volume of air exchange for the house will need to be divided by the throughput. The result is the number of channels. The air ducts of the system must be distributed in such premises as a boiler room, a bathroom, a kitchen, etc.

This is a very simplified way of calculating. Professionals take into account other parameters that affect efficiency, such as the thermal insulation of the ventilation shaft, as well as the strength and direction of the wind.

To reduce the influence of the latter factor, it is necessary to properly position the outlet of the ventilation shaft relative to the roof ridge. If the roof slope is less than 12 degrees, then the exit should rise 0.6 m above the ridge. For pitched roofs, the height of the ventilation shaft depends on the distance to the ridge:

• if the pipe is located at a distance of less than 1 m from the highest point of the pitched roof, then it must rise at least 0.5 m from the ridge;
• at a distance of 1.5-3 m, the exit of the mine should be at the level of the ridge;
• at a greater distance, the mouth should go on a straight line, which is drawn from the ridge at an angle of 10 degrees to the horizon.

The insulation of the channels helps to avoid a decrease in traction during cooling and condensation in the pipe. It will also help increase vibration protection and sound insulation.

How to avoid mistakes when installing ventilation? Watch the following video:

These are the basic conditions that must be met with proper and timely arrangement. But even if the house has already been built, and the old air exchange system cannot cope, there is a way out.

Wall inlet valve for room ventilation

Improve indoor air circulation with inlet valve and exhaust port. This is a good solution when there is no way to make full ventilation.

supply device, which it is better to install near the heating equipment, equipped with a check valve that passes and cleans the street air from dust. Due to the proximity to the battery, the air flows are heated.

The outflow of air is carried out on the street with the help of special hoods powered by electricity.

Both the wall supply valve and the hood are built into the prepared through holes of the required diameter, made in the wall facing the street.

The cost of ventilation in a private house

It is impossible to give a definite number. It all depends on the area of ​​the house, the type of system and the cost of consumables, design and installation services. The last factor can be eliminated with self-arrangement.

When it comes to installing natural ventilation on your own, then its final cost depends on the price of pipelines, ventilation grilles and other fittings.

So, a meter-long plastic channel with a diameter of 150 mm will cost about 400 rubles, and fittings to it, depending on the type, will cost an average of 150-250 rubles. Exhaust fans, for example, for a bathroom cost from 300 to 1000 rubles. Forced ventilation equipment is much more expensive.

If you order work from specialists, then to provide a country house with an air exchange system, you will have to pay from 1500 to 4000 rubles per 1 m 2 of the room.

The project separately can cost about 300-400 rubles per 1 m 2. But if it is not so difficult to install a natural system on your own, then it is better to entrust the design to specialists, as this will significantly reduce the risks of resulting in an inefficient system. But for houses within an urban system, it is better to choose forced air exchange, for the design and installation of which it is highly recommended to contact a reliable specialized organization.