Making a long-burning stove with your own hands. How to make a long-burning stove with your own hands? Stovemen's club long burning stove
A shed, any utility rooms on the site, and so on that need heating, sooner or later the question arises of how to heat all of the above premises without much cost. And if you take into account the price of electricity, then heating with electric heaters is no longer possible, especially in large areas. Therefore, for those who are faced with such a problem and are looking for ways to solve it, this furnace will be just a godsend. The stove "Bubafonya", that's how it was nicknamed by the people, does not require constant attention to it. It is enough to lay the firewood "to the eyeballs" once, set it on fire, and with the help of a simple system for adjusting the air supply to the system, the combustion process will turn into smoldering. This furnace, according to the author, will burn for several days. It's easy to make. It is enough to have basic skills in owning some of the necessary tools, in particular a welding machine, and you yourself will be able to make this stove for heating any premises.
To start drawing:
The combustion system, as well as the design of the stove itself, is not standard. If in a conventional stove, firewood burns from the bottom up, then in this design everything is exactly the opposite - combustion goes from top to bottom. Firewood in the working part of the stove is ignited through a pipe for supplying air. It’s not very convenient, but since you don’t have to do this often, it will go and you can get used to it. Smoke escapes through the edges of the pressure pancake, which, as the firewood burns out, goes down.
To make such a furnace, the author needed:
200 liter barrel of fuels and lubricants, a circle cut out of metal with a diameter of a couple of centimeters less than the diameter of the barrel itself, 4 corners or channels, a 100 mm pipe, a little more than the height of the barrel and 150 for a chimney, at least five meters long .
So, a barrel is taken from under fuel and lubricants
The upper part of the barrel and the welding seam are cut off.
The result is a barrel with an open top and a finished lid, the edges of which have been processed and bent.
The edges of the barrel itself are also processed and bent inward.
The edges of the lid fold outward. As a result, the lid will sit tightly and not fidget on the barrel. In the middle of the lid, a hole is cut out for the blower pipe, with a diameter of 102-103 mm. The hole on the lid, which is left from the cork, can be welded tightly, but it’s better not to, because by attaching a handle to it for convenience so as not to get burned, you can unscrew it and observe the combustion process.
Further, in the upper part of the barrel we cut out a round hole with a diameter of 150-153 mm. A part of the chimney pipe will be welded here. Having welded, it is possible to immediately manufacture and install an air supply damper inside this pipe.
The body of the stove is ready.
Now the air supply device is being made. To do this, a hole was cut out in the middle of a metal pancake and a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm was welded to it. If you do not have a sheet of metal and you will use a pancake from a barrel for this, then the hole from the cork is welded tightly so that the gases released during the combustion process come out only around the circumference of the pancake.
In the lower part of the pancake, either corners or channels are welded.
The air supply device is already ready. It will be inserted inside the barrel, cylinder. We install a damper on the top of the pipe. To do this, a threaded stud is taken and welded to the inside of the pipe. If there is no stud, you can cut off the head of a suitable bolt and weld it on. A circle is cut out corresponding to the size of the hole in the pipe. A hole is drilled in it for a stud. Drilling must be done in such a way that the damper completely closes the hole in the pipe. Next, we put the damper on the stud and fasten it with the help of a wing nut. By loosening the nut and moving the damper, you can adjust the air supply to the combustion chamber-furnace.
Now the lid is installed and the oven is almost ready.
It remains to install the chimney. Its diameter should not be less than 150 mm, otherwise the combustion products will not completely exit the stove. For the best draft, the chimney pipe must be at least five cm. It is installed next to the stove, the lower part is hermetically welded. The stove is connected to an elbow in the chimney. Also, for tightness, fiberglass or some other non-combustible material is placed under the clamps. A ball valve is installed under the knee to drain condensate. It is convenient to clean it. A faucet is a must, because if you have a stove in a utility room or a shed in the winter and get heated from time to time, the condensate may freeze and the weld will break. More condensate can flow into the furnace itself, and through a loosely connected clamp and out.
With the onset of cold autumn days, it becomes necessary to heat the garage during car repairs or keep warm when harvesting potatoes on your site. A potbelly stove with long-burning wood can be an excellent replacement for expensive stoves and will fit perfectly into small auxiliary rooms in which it makes no sense to constantly maintain heat.
In ordinary potbelly stoves, which have long been known to everyone, firewood burns out quickly, and it takes a lot of them to heat the room. In order to make a long-burning stove out of a potbelly stove, it was necessary to equip it with an additional device for long-burning fuel. Craftsmen found a way out of this situation, and various options for such units appeared: Slobozhanka, pyrolysis, bubafonya and others. They are very economical, you can heat firewood, sawdust, wood chips and other combustible waste from firewood. They can burn, or rather, smolder, for a whole day, and their efficiency exceeds 90%. They don't need constant supervision.
It is convenient to install these stoves in greenhouses, garages, cottages and small wooden houses. The disadvantage will be in them a special organization of the chimney, in which several branches cannot be made. As soon as the firewood burns out, the potbelly stove cools down, but during combustion it heats up very much. You can make a potbelly stove from anything, and its design is quite simple. You can cut it out of metal, and then it turns out to be a rectangular shape.
You can make a long-burning potbelly stove from an ordinary steel barrel or a used gas cylinder. The principle of operation is the same everywhere - smoldering. A feature of such heaters are two chambers, which are divided into two parts: for fuel and for further combustion of coal and gases. A piston is provided in the furnace device, which:
- supplies air to the furnace;
- exerts uniform strong pressure on the firewood, they smolder and evenly fall down.
Firewood in the firebox burns very slowly. At the same time, the gas that is formed during combustion burns in the adjacent chamber. In the mode of such delayed action, the furnace does not heat up much, so the walls must be of small thickness. When heating a large room, the design is chosen more powerful, and then more firewood is required, respectively, and the heat transfer will be higher.
As the firewood burns, the chamber itself also decreases, on which a damper presses from above, which regulates air circulation.
In a residential area, such a device is not very convenient and profitable. To load fuel or clean soot, the dirty piston must first be removed. And to remove soot, you need to remove the chimney elbow and turn the stove body over.
How to make a wood burning stove. Potbelly stove efficiency 200%
Preparatory work
Perfect for every garage owner make a homemade stove. It is possible to build a potbelly stove of long burning with your own hands within a few hours from a used barrel. It must be strong, with a flat surface. If dents or bulges remain in some place, the air duct will not fit snugly against the fuel and will hang over it. The walls of the container must be freed from the remnants of gasoline, paint, glue, etc. using a gas burner or blowtorch, then cleaned with a metal brush. Then you need to make a piston and blades.
The grinder in this case will not cope, since the metal is quite thick, and it is better to contact the service center or the factory. At home, it remains only to clean the cutting places, remove drops and growths. The next stage of preparation is the choice of a place for installation. Here you need to be guided by some mandatory rules.
Firstly, the floor must be level, and secondly, the oven must stand on a protected surface: metal sheets or asbestos fiber boards can be used. The potbelly stove is installed away from flammable materials.
Do not mount the heating device under hanging furniture. It is also taken into account how the chimney will be arranged. To prevent heat from escaping into the pipe, when passing its vertical part on the street, its other part is laid horizontally. If he walks around the room, then the potbelly stove can be installed using any method. You also need to decide how the required amount of air will flow to the thermal chamber. Good ventilation is indispensable here.
Original long-burning potbelly stove
The first step is to create a firebox: the upper round part of the barrel is carefully cut off. After that, the edges of the barrel and the cut part are processed with a hammer or sledgehammer. In this case, the uneven edges of the barrel are rounded inward, and at the circle - outward. This procedure is necessary to create greater tightness when closing the lid. Next, a round metal disk with the same diameter as the barrel itself is welded onto the body of the future furnace.
This surface can be used to cook food or boil tea. In place of the cork, which is located on top of the barrel, a sliding damper is installed that regulates the supply of secondary air, which enters the afterburning zone. A hole for the air duct is cut in the middle of the cover, which is scalded in a circle with metal. The piston is made from a steel sheet or from the bottom of another barrel.
Potbelly stove of long burning.
Additional metal parts are welded onto the upper plane of the piston so that the force of its pressure corresponds to the calculations of air intake into the firebox. A hole is made in the center of the pressure circle, the diameter of which must match the outer diameter of the air duct, and they are firmly welded to each other. Then, blades up to 40 mm high must be attached to the bottom of the piston, which are used to evenly distribute oxygen throughout the furnace.
They are flat and rounded. You can use both, but with rounded ones, the smoke flow goes in a spiral, and its path slows down. Ultimately, the heat transfer of the furnace increases. A splitter is attached to the center of the piston from the side of the pipe. A damper with a latch is installed on top of the pipe to regulate the flow of the primary portion of air. In the upper opening, which is cut on the body, a branch pipe is mounted by welding with a continuous seam. A support frame with legs is constructed from various metal waste.
An important part when creating a potbelly stove is a chimney with pipes, the diameter of which should be a little more than 10 cm. You must also prepare three knees and a plug and all sequentially connect to each other: 
Manual
In pyrolysis ovens only dry wood is used. The fact is that when raw wood is burned, a large amount of water vapor is released, and it greatly reduces the heating temperature of the fuel. In addition, complete combustion of volatile substances does not occur, and when cooled in the chimney, they remain on its walls, which are very difficult to remove during cleaning. When raw firewood is burned, many harmful chemicals are released that affect the environment and human health.
With well-dried fuel, the waste is mainly carbon dioxide and water vapor, and a small, barely perceptible movement of air can be seen from the outside. Before filling the stove with wood, the piston is removed. The operating time of the potbelly stove and its heat transfer depend on the density of the fuel stacking. Even small gaps between logs are covered with chips, shavings, sawdust, etc. A rag soaked in kerosene is placed on top of everything, and, having put the piston in place, the heater is tightly closed with a lid. Only after that they throw a burning match there.
It is not recommended to put various household waste in the oven, except for paper. All plastic products and shampoo bottles, foam liners, plastic bags, when burned, will release many hazardous elements that cannot decompose even during the pyrolysis process. In addition, they will emit a high percentage of soot, which will clog the chimney ahead of time.
The popularity of a modern long-burning wood stove is constantly growing, as it allows you to get more thermal energy, and with less solid fuel. This is especially true for settlements where there is no centralized gas supply, and from time to time there are problems with electricity supply.
The effect of pyrolysis and its application in furnaces
The functional purpose of heating units for long burning is based on the effect of pyrolysis - a process that is the decomposition of natural chemical compounds with a lack of oxygen. As a result, a large amount of heat is released.
Pyrolysis refers to the decomposition of solid fuel. The fact is that when it burns, gaseous products that are released during heating, and not the wood itself, ignite. Thus, if an ordinary fire is kindled, a person is faced with pyrolysis.
The difference lies in the fact that under standard conditions, wood burning occurs in the presence of oxygen, and this ultimately negatively affects the overall efficiency of the heater. A full-fledged pyrolysis process requires limiting the supply of an oxidizer and burning gases separate from smoldering solid fuel.
Now there are many options and design solutions for how to make a long-burning furnace. Similar devices, despite the presence of technical differences, have a similar principle of operation.
In order to ensure efficient use of fuel, economy units operate using the pyrolysis process. As a result, the main amount of thermal energy is produced by the combustion of gases that are released as a result of smoldering wood - hydrogen, methane and others. In this case, oxygen is supplied to the furnace in a dosed manner using a regulator.
First, the fuel is allowed to ignite well for about 30 minutes, and then the access of the oxidizer to the furnace is minimized. Smoldering firewood in such conditions emits the maximum amount of flammable gases, which, when burned in a separate chamber, are able to provide heating for the body of the pyrolysis unit.
Pros and cons of long burning stoves
There are a lot of advantages that economical wood-fired stoves have:
- Maximum complete combustion of solid fuel. For this reason, long-burning wood boilers have an excellent efficiency of up to 85%.
- These heating units are cleaned and maintained quite simply, since after the completion of the burning of firewood, there is practically no ash left.
- Environmental friendliness of the pyrolysis process. With the complete combustion of natural organic compounds, only carbon dioxide and water vapor are the products of oxidation. In a pyrolysis furnace, solid fuel decomposes completely, therefore, all kinds of industrial waste can be used as a source of thermal energy, which are allowed to be burned under normal conditions only at a considerable distance from residential buildings on specially equipped landfills.
- It will be necessary to load the next portion of firewood or other solid fuel much less often, or rather once every 10-15 hours, which is an indisputable advantage of these units compared to conventional stoves and potbelly stoves. Some models of factory-made pyrolysis boilers are able to function for a longer time on one tab.
- Rapid heating of the coolant, subject to the availability of a heat exchange heating circuit for private houses.
- The ability to perform accurate and high-quality adjustment of the power indicator of the unit. Under normal operating conditions, it is quite difficult to control the functioning of solid fuel heating devices in comparison with analogues for which gaseous or liquid fuels are used. Since in a long-burning wood-burning stove, the gas released during the pyrolysis process is afterburned in a special compartment, this problem is solved quite easily.
Pyrolysis plants have a number of disadvantages, including:
- The high price of ready-made heating boilers. This negative point can be eliminated if you make economical wood-burning stoves with your own hands.
- Increased requirements for the moisture content of solid fuel. If you decide to use poorly dried firewood and try to put the unit into operation before it is completely dry, the fire will most likely go out and the full pyrolysis process will not be performed.
- Quite large dimensions. In addition to the fact that it is necessary to prepare a place for installing a pyrolysis boiler, it will be necessary to equip the area on which solid fuel is to be stored.
- Inability to provide fully automatic operation. Firewood must be loaded into the unit manually.
- When installing an industrial model of a pyrolysis boiler, additional blowing of the combustion chamber is often provided and pumping equipment is installed to circulate the working medium in the heat supply circuit. Therefore, for the uninterrupted operation of the installation, it is necessary to ensure a high-quality power supply.
- There is a risk that the pyrolysis chamber may go out as a result of using too cool coolant from the heating circuit. To prevent such a nuisance, a bypass pipe, called a bypass, is mounted in the device. Through it, hot water is mixed into the cooled working medium. As a result, the device of the heating boiler becomes more complicated and at the same time its price increases. But the pyrolysis stove assembled with his own hands without connecting the heating system is devoid of this drawback.
Making an economical do-it-yourself wood-burning stove
Of course, it is easier to purchase a ready-made long-burning heating unit than to make it yourself. But, as already mentioned, such installations are inexpensive.
If you want to make an economy wood-burning stove on your own, you can use an old gas cylinder, a metal barrel, sheet steel and other improvised materials suitable for this purpose.
First of all, you need to prepare the basic materials that may be required:
- A metal barrel with a volume of approximately 200 liters without rust or other obvious damage. Its walls must be strong, made of cast iron or steel alloy.
- An old large volume fire extinguisher that will be a good basis for the unit.
- A segment of a thick-walled wide metal pipe.
- End-of-life gas cylinder.
- Steel sheets having a thickness of at least 5 millimeters.
A boiler with a round base requires support legs, which can be made from:
- pieces of reinforcement;
- pieces of thin pipes;
- metal profile.
In addition, the home craftsman will need:
- Steel sheet having a thickness of 5 millimeters. It is necessary to cut out circles from it, the size of which coincides with the diameter of the metal barrel.
- Metal profile.
- Stove door - you can buy it or make it yourself.
- Metal pipe with a section of 10 centimeters. Its length should exceed the diameter of the barrel by 15 centimeters.
- Chimney pipe 5 meters long with a section of 15 centimeters. See also: "".
The list of tools required for work is small:
- electric welding installation of stationary or portable type;
- grinder or autogen;
- ax with a hammer;
- level, plumb, tape measure.
Equally important is the room in which you have to assemble an economy wood-burning stove. When carrying out installation work, the home craftsman must always have access to power, good lighting and an adequate level of ventilation.
It is necessary to choose a spacious utility room with good sound insulation, reliably protected from precipitation, in which it is possible to safely store already manufactured parts of the pyrolysis oven.
The assembly of the long-burning heating unit is carried out in the following sequence:
- Remove the lid from the metal barrel. When a cylinder or a fire extinguisher is used for the base, its upper part is carefully cut off with a grinder or with an autogen. Before cutting, you need to open the valve in advance and pour water inside. The top does not need to be thrown away, as it will still be useful. By the way, a square-shaped case, which can be made of sheet steel, is more stable.
- Support elements made of a channel, pipes or fittings are welded to the round bottom - the base.
- Next, a pressure circle is cut out of the steel sheet; it must pass freely inside the barrel.
- The circle is connected to the pipe. For this purpose, a hole with a diameter of 10 centimeters is cut out in the center of the clamping element and the pipe is welded to the circle. The resulting part, after being placed inside the barrel, should protrude approximately 15 centimeters above its level.
- On the reverse side of the circle, channels are welded crosswise, which contribute to a tighter fit of firewood in the process of smoldering.
- For the furnace unit make a cover. It can be like the upper part, which was cut off at the first stage, or another steel circle. A round hole should also be made in the cover so that the inner section of the pipe with the clamping circle moves freely under its own weight and at the same time fits snugly against the walls of the structure.
- Install the door. At the bottom of the base of the future pyrolysis stove, a hole is cut out for the door and fixed so that after the burnout of the solid fuel is completed, the ash can be removed without problems.
- Install the chimney. For this purpose, a circle with a diameter of 15 centimeters is cut out in the upper part of the body, and a chimney pipe is fixed with a welding machine. The main thing to remember is that its minimum length must exceed the cross section of the barrel or any other base.
It is desirable that the chimney has a valve that allows for additional adjustment of the draft force. To clean it, many craftsmen make it collapsible or install a door to clean it.
It is also necessary to isolate the places where the chimney structure passes through the walls, ceiling and roof surface. At the end of the chimney, an umbrella or fungus should be installed - an element that prevents atmospheric precipitation from entering inside.
After the assembly of the pyrolysis device is completed, it is advisable to overlay it with a brick, which will not only accumulate heat, but will also protect the surrounding furnishings from excess fat.
Features of using a long-burning furnace and maintenance
Long-burning wood-burning stoves, due to structural differences, have several individual features related to the operation and maintenance of a product manufactured in an industrial environment.
The kindling of long-burning furnaces is carried out in a certain way:
- The lid is removed from the unit and a pressing circle is taken out of the barrel, to which the pipe is welded.
- Firewood or any other solid fuel is loaded. The level of loading the stove with firewood to the maximum should be located at the lower edge of the chimney pipe. Firewood must be stacked very tightly, leaving only minimal gaps. On top of the logs, you need to put a small amount of dry small branches, which are covered with rags soaked in kerosene or other kindling liquid. When there is no rag, it can be replaced with plain paper itself.
- The pressing circle is returned to the barrel and covered with a lid. Only after that a piece of rag or paper is set on fire and thrown inside the pipe with a circle.
- To ignite the pyrolysis plant, you should not use matches, because during the time during which they fly inside the stove, the fire on them will go out.
- After the fuel flares up well, after 30 minutes it is necessary to restrict air access to the stove using a damper. Then it remains only to enjoy the warmth and comfort for long hours.
When installing an economical wood-burning stove in a room, certain rules must be observed:
- Due to the fact that the long-burning unit can get very hot, any combustible and fusible materials and objects must be placed away from it.
- A lot of free space should be left around the pyrolysis device. You need to put it at a distance from interior items and walls, so that they are not damaged due to an excessive degree of heating. This problem is partially solved by laying bricks along the perimeter of the heater.
- When cleaning the stove, always leave some ash behind. Such a measure can save the device from burning through its bottom and, accordingly, the failure of the boiler.
Types of solid fuel for pyrolysis stoves
Of course, dry firewood is considered the best choice of fuel for such a heating unit. But since one of the main reasons for installing long-burning appliances is to save money on heat supply to housing, other types of combustible materials that are constantly at hand are also suitable.
In addition to them, coal is suitable, but this natural fuel is capable of releasing powerful thermal energy. When used, it must be loaded into units with thick walls of a steel case, otherwise they will quickly become unusable.
Solid fuel boilers, with all their advantages, have one serious drawback. It consists in the fact that fuel burnout when using this equipment occurs quite quickly. Therefore, you have to constantly monitor his work in order to timely throw the next portion of firewood into the combustion chamber. This leads to the fact that fuel is consumed uneconomically, as a result of which heating costs increase.
To solve this problem, it is necessary to replace the equipment with a more advanced and economical one - a long-burning boiler. As fuel during its operation, ordinary firewood is used. But unlike conventional plants operating on the same fuel, combustion process is longer. Firewood has to be thrown less often. The result is fuel savings. Such a boiler can be bought, but it is better to do it yourself. The scheme for its creation is quite simple, so there will be no difficulties in the course of work. In addition, there are many video instructions on the network that show the process of building such boilers.
The principle of operation of the long-burning boiler
The operation of such boilers is based on the principle of not burning, but smoldering of the fuel put into the combustion chamber. This allows you to get more heat. It is impossible to count on such a result in brick ovens, since a slightly different design scheme is used during their construction. The main reason is that there is no active traction in them.
Boilers of long burning have a number of features in terms of their design, which ensures maximum efficiency of heat release in the process of smoldering logs. Even having built a homemade long-burning stove with your own hands, one bookmark will be enough for it to work for 8 hours.
One of the features of solid combustion boilers is the presence of a regulator valve in their design. When firewood is loaded into the combustion chamber and an active combustion process begins, it is necessary to close the valve and minimize the flow of oxygen into the boiler. In the process of smoldering, firewood begins to emit flue gas. Its main constituents are methane, carbon monoxide and hydrogen.
Heat during the operation of such furnaces is created precisely thanks to flue gas. Getting into the ignition chamber, it ignites, after which it burns out with the release of a large amount of thermal energy.
How is everything arranged?
If you decide to build a long-burning boiler with your own hands, then you should not rush to start work on its creation. First you need to find a drawing for the furnace. There are plenty of them on the web. It will not be superfluous scheme of the device of such an installation. It will facilitate the work on the creation of the furnace. In addition, before starting work, you need to watch a video on how to make a boiler with your own hands.
When creating a long-burning installation, steel pipes should be used as the main material. If they are not available, then you can choose pipes with a diameter of 30-40 cm. In this case, the minimum wall thickness should be 5 mm. If it is less, then during the operation of the metal it will quickly burn out, and then the installation will be unsuitable for further use. The height of the boiler must be at least 1 m.
The created boiler is divided into three parts:
- combustion zone - it is used to remove smoke and smoldering ash;
- combustion zone - it contains smoldering solid fuel;
- loading zone - it decreases in height, which is associated with the gradual burnout of the briquette.
In any scheme of a long-term combustion boiler, there is such a component as an air distributor. The duration of burning depends on it. It limits the zone in which the combustion process takes place. In its appearance, the distributor is a disk made of sheet steel 4 mm thick. In its middle part there is a pipe. Through it, air enters the combustion chamber.
So that as the fuel smolders in the furnace, it can freely fall inside the chamber, its size is made slightly smaller than the furnace. To control the combustion zone, the distributor has an impeller, the height of which is 5 cm. With an increase in its height, its space will also increase, which will lead to an increase in the rate of burning wood in the furnace chamber.
The pipe through which the air will flow must have diameter equal to 6 cm. You can use both a solid pipe and a telescopic one. At the same time, the holes in the distributor should not be more than 2 cm. Otherwise, air will enter the furnace chamber in large quantities, which will lead to oversaturation with oxygen. A damper should be installed at the top. It will allow you to control the draft in the furnace. You can connect a long-burning boiler to the heating one of two ways:
- the water heat exchanger pipe is passed through the combustion chamber. The water in the tank will be heated by means of a coil, which is connected to this pipe;
- a chimney is passed through a remote tank. Smoke passes through it in a hot state, which leads to heating of the coolant.
Comparing these two methods, it should be noted that the first is noticeably simpler in its implementation, while the second provides high efficiency.
Instructions for making a boiler with your own hands
Before starting work on the manufacture of a long-burning boiler, you should watch the video instructions for creating the installation yourself in order to avoid mistakes. You must have a drawing of the furnace, with an orientation towards which all work must be carried out.
Tools
Required in advance prepare materials and tools that you will need during the work:
- pipes 30 cm, 5-6 cm, 10 cm. Please note that the wall thickness of each pipe must be at least 3 mm;
- steel sheet 4 mm;
- Bulgarian;
- welding machine;
- hand tools.
To place the boiler, choose a place with a solid surface.
Making a homemade oven
Installation manufacturing process includes the following steps:
Chimney and reflector
In the process of using a home-made boiler, its walls will be constantly heated, and, naturally, thermal energy will emanate from them. If the installation of the furnace is carried out for a small room, then need reflectors, which will need to be placed around it. Thanks to them, the distribution of the flow will occur, thereby increasing the amount of heat entering inside.
In the event that a long-burning boiler will be installed in a room in which people are constantly present, the issue of ensuring the safety of the installation should be considered. Brick lining the furnace will solve this problem.
To create a chimney of the furnace, you can use a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm. The diameter of the combustion chamber should exceed the straight section of the pipe by 10 cm. It should be brought out into the street with a minimum of kinks. Optimally - two bends at an angle of 45 degrees.
A few other features:
- when creating a chimney of a furnace, its design should be made collapsible. In this case, it will be possible to remove and clean its walls from soot during the season;
- sections of the chimney must be connected in the direction opposite to the movement of gas;
- objects and structures that are easily flammable under the influence of open fire must be moved to some distance from the installation.
We build the foundation
The base for the boiler can be laid out of burnt bricks or rubble stone can be used. These materials do not crack under the influence of high temperatures. If a solid foundation is required, then in this case it will be necessary to fill in a solid monolithic slab. Installation of equipment is carried out on legs. Using a channel, they can be easily welded. You can hide them from the eyes behind the brickwork.
The air in the long-burning boiler must be supplied in a certain amount. This can be achieved only if its laying is carried out in full, without leaving free cavities. In addition to firewood, peat and sawdust can be added to the furnace.
The filling of fuel into the boiler must be carried out according to the following instructions:
- first you need to remove the cover and remove the regulator from the tank;
- further, fuel is densely laid in the chamber;
- flammable liquid must be sprayed on top of the fuel;
- after installing the regulator, the tank is covered with a lid, and then the damper opens;
- after that, a torch is thrown into the air pipe. When the smoldering process begins, the damper can be covered.
Summing up
You now have a long burning cauldron. You can install this equipment in an unheated room. It will be a great solution for heating the garage. By installing such a boiler in the workshop, you can easily provide a warm atmosphere in it. If the boiler has been manufactured correctly, then high efficiency and efficiency of its operation are guaranteed.
For a more comfortable use of solid fuel for heating, it is best to use a do-it-yourself pyrolysis oven, drawings and photos of such units can be easily found on specialized sites dedicated to space heating systems.
People have been using solid fuel boilers for a long time. Until a certain time, this method of heating rooms in cold weather was the only possible one. Further development of heating systems made it possible to create units operating on liquid and gaseous fuels. However, with all the variety of equipment, solid fuel boilers have not lost their attractiveness. The fact is that the development of modern technologies has made it possible to create installations capable of operating without human intervention in the combustion process for a long time.
The purchase of a long-burning furnace, manufactured in industrial production, allows you to get a unit that has a presentable appearance and a guaranteed service life. In addition, such a device provides a high degree of operational safety. The disadvantage of such devices is the high cost of the units. This forces many to think about the question of how to make a long-burning stove with their own hands. It is quite difficult to make a pyrolysis oven with your own hands. Before embarking on the manufacture of a long-burning furnace with your own hands, you should study the principle of operation and the design of such a unit. In addition, a person who decides to make a long-burning furnace with his own hands must have extensive experience working with metal and possess certain professional skills.
Do-it-yourself long-burning furnaces are capable of operating on the following types of solid fuels:
- firewood;
- coal;
- sawdust.
All of these types of fuels have a relatively low cost, which ensures the popularity of this type of heating equipment. The most common unit among homeowners has become a do-it-yourself long-burning wood-burning stove made at home. This is due to the low cost of fuel and its general availability in almost any region.
Fabrication of a sheet metal structure is the most complex option for designing and assembling an installation, as it requires a large number of installation operations. The manufacture of this version of the furnace will require the master:
- carrying out accurate calculations of the dimensions of all structural elements and accurate marking of sheet metal;
- the accuracy of the processing of all parts of the unit;
- precision in welding.
Units made of sheet metal can be of various shapes. The shape of the structure in this case depends on the preferences of the master and the availability of free space for mounting the furnace.
