We make a faucet with our own hands. How to make a construction crane with your own hands Do-it-yourself small-sized folding crane

Almost any construction site cannot be done without special equipment, especially a construction crane. It becomes an indispensable assistant when it is necessary to lift heavy loads to different heights. Most people associate this technique with huge sizes, but there are many types of cranes that…

Most people associate this technology with huge size, but there are many types of faucets that are ergonomic and compact.

You can even do some options yourself, saving personal savings during construction. In this article we will look at how to assemble a homemade Pioneer crane for building a house.

Mini construction crane: scope of application

Mini cranes are in great demand. They are used during construction and repair work. Modern manufacturers offer innovative solutions in the manufacture of their products.

These devices are different:

maneuverability;
wide range of applications;
functionality;
ease of use.

Thanks to the presence of various attachments, various manipulations can be carried out with this technique.

Mini cranes, both purchased and assembled at home, are capable of working in the most difficult to reach places: in cramped courtyards, dense urban construction, uneven sites, inside buildings and on roofs. Compact dimensions allow special equipment to even pass through single or double doors.

They are often used for fine, almost jewelry work. Manufacturers of modern technology conducted an experiment with a matchbox that had to be moved from one place to another. At the same time, the device did not crush or crush a cardboard box of such a tiny size.

The presence of a control panel for the units allows users to control the work process while standing next to the equipment near the load, but only purchased units assembled in production have such advantages.

You are unlikely to be able to make such a device yourself. But you can try to build something similar. Of course, a mini crane assembled by yourself will not be very functional, but it will be able to lift loads of a certain mass to a specified height.

Simple mini-faucet with your own hands

If you make a mini crane with your own hands, it will be able to lift loads weighing up to 250 kg. This will greatly simplify the construction process on site. It can handle lifting logs, concrete mortar, and roofing materials. With it, you can do construction yourself without involving a large number of workers.

The main thing when making a mini crane is to prepare a drawing, the necessary tools and parts. The weight of this structure can reach 300 kg. It depends on what materials you will use during assembly. Despite its impressive weight, the mini crane will be distinguished by its compact size and high performance.

Assembling a mini crane with your own hands consists of the following steps:

Using a gearbox, a cargo winch is attached to a worm base.
Construction supports are the basis for screw outrigger systems.
In addition to the basic structure, drums for winches will be required to assemble the unit. Making them on your own is quite problematic. Therefore, it is recommended to purchase ready-made products.
Rotors from an electric motor can be used as a basis.

Attention: When assembling a mini crane yourself, special attention must be paid to the ratio of the sizes of the elements and the dimensions of the future device.

To make the device convenient to use, its platform can be equipped with wheels. This is where the old transport cart comes to the rescue.

Features of mini cranes assembled by yourself include:

The optimal boom height is 5 meters. To make it yourself, you will need to use a pipe with a diameter of 8 cm.
A profile of 2 corners is mounted on the base and a rotating mechanism is created to rotate the boom. An automobile hub from a truck is suitable as a turning mechanism.
To build a counterweight, you don’t need any special materials. Ordinary bricks can serve as them.

Types of manual taps

All construction cranes are classified into:

self-propelled;
stationary;
tower;
special purpose.

This equipment is equipped with a boom extension mechanism, a cargo trolley, and a rotating support.

By type of movement they are divided into:

stationary;
adjustable;
self-elevating;
mobile.

According to the type of control, these devices are electrically driven and manual (mechanical).

Lift

Modern lifts are divided by type into:

Foot. They are capable of lifting heavy loads weighing up to 2 tons to a height of 8 meters.
Telescopic. Their advantages include: light weight and compactness. These devices are capable of lifting loads to a working height of up to 150 kg.

They, in turn, are divided into:

self-propelled;
non-self-propelled.

When choosing a lift, it is worth considering several factors: their dimensions, load capacity, scope of application.

To make a lift yourself, prepare materials and a preliminary drawing. To build it we will need:

a winch, which can be made from a drum and a cable;
pipes;
electric drive

The advantages of construction hoists include:

maneuverability;
high load capacity;
safety;
ease of use.

Scissor crane

The scissor crane is a simple and easy-to-use design. Due to their versatility and functionality, these devices are used in installation and construction work. They can also often be found in supermarkets and warehouses.

A scissor crane lifts tons of loads every day. This technique, in addition to the construction industry, is regularly used in the maintenance of advertising billboards, facade signs, and elevators.

Their main advantages include:

performance;
high load capacity;
compact dimensions when folded;
wide range of applications;
maneuverability.

Their advantages also include autonomy - they can operate on batteries. In addition, cranes can be equipped with different types of drives:

electrohydraulic;
diesel;
electrical;
hydraulic.

Most often, models with electric drives are used in construction. They are affordable, environmentally friendly and easy to use.

There are a large number of variations of devices of this type, but almost all of them consist of:

lifting device,
mobile platform;
equal-speed drive wheels.

To build a scissor crane yourself, you will need to make the base and platform of the apparatus from a channel. To make scissors you will need:

two-section distributor;
bushings;
pump;
hydraulic cylinder;
I-beams.

A DIY scissor crane is capable of lifting loads weighing up to half a ton. This device is installed on the UAZ, and after operation it is removed. The basis of the structure will be a thick square bolted to the frame, and the retractable pores will be held on the car bumper.

Crane “Pioneer”

The Pioneer type lift has excellent technical characteristics. It is light in weight and distinguished by maneuverability and mobility. The advantages of this device include the ability to quickly and easily assemble and disassemble.

To deliver the device to the construction site, it can be disassembled and folded into a simple gazelle. After work, it can also be easily disassembled and transported back. The crane can be installed anywhere: on the ground, in a pit, on a roof, on building floors.

This special equipment is produced by different companies in three main modifications of cranes, lifting capacity, and booms.

If necessary, you can make a Pioneer crane on your own, having with you the necessary consumables, tools, a well-drawn drawing and free time.

As for the scope of application of the Pioneer, it can be used to move various objects in any weather conditions. It is capable of delivering cargo to any floor or building structure. With its help you can deliver: tools, equipment, building materials and the like.

Quite often this device is used when installing roofs. With it you can quickly lift various loads, machines, metal structures, and materials.

Advantages of the Pioneer crane

The main advantages of the Pioneer crane include:

ease of use - thanks to a simple and reliable design;
the ability to assemble and disassemble the device within half an hour;
mobility, allowing the unit to be used even at distant sites;
low energy consumption.

Important: The Pioneer crane is capable of rotating the boom 360 degrees.

But this unit also has its drawbacks:

it is capable of lifting a weight of no more than 1 ton;
if you hang a flexible load on it, it is not always convenient and safe.

Do-it-yourself Pioneer crane

The Pioneer crane has a simple design. It consists of the following elements:

Main support frame. It can be dismountable, bolted or standing on wheels. The second rotating frame is attached to it;
Safety guy ropes, cargo ropes, electric drive;
Swivel boom. It can be dismountable or bolted;
End stop mechanism. It is located at the end of the boom;
A limit switch located on the mechanism responsible for lifting the load.

So, if you have started construction on a personal plot, but there is no desire or financial opportunity to hire special equipment, try assembling a crane with your own hands. With it, you don't have to lift heavy loads yourself.

Attention: The Pioneer construction crane is a collapsible structure designed to lift loads. It can be used when digging a foundation pit for a house, installing a roof, or constructing walls at high altitudes.

The basis of the mechanism is a supporting running frame, which is installed either permanently or on a chassis. The part of the crane that rotates is installed on the frame. The boom can be rotated manually or electrically.

The load of this device is lifted using a winch, and stability is achieved thanks to a counterweight and turnbuckles (steel cable stays).

Materials and tools

To make the device, we will need the following materials, which can be found in the garage or in a specialized store:

rectangular pipe;
I-beam;
telescopic unit for I-beam;
small diameter cables;
channel;
electric motor;
winch.

Tools you will need:

keys;
hammer;
Screwdriver Set.

Design diagram

To make a Pioneer faucet with your own hands, you need to make a competent diagram. It should strictly indicate: materials of manufacture, dimensions of each individual element, methods of fastening parts.

When creating a diagram of a future design, it is worth carefully calculating everything. If you don’t quite understand this, it’s better to invite a specialist. Having a well-designed diagram in your hands, you can independently manufacture and assemble the device in the shortest possible time.

Assembly Features

As for the assembly of the product:

The crane frame is assembled from a corner 63x63x5 mm.
For a 5-meter boom, a pipe with a diameter of 5–8 cm is required.
To strengthen the structure, you will need 2 corners, measuring 30x30x3 mm.

The carrying capacity of such a device will be 150 kg. If the ropes are strengthened, it will be possible to lift heavier loads.

Attention: Making an electric faucet at home is quite difficult. It will be more expensive and take longer.

When choosing an I-beam, you should make sure that it fits freely into the pipe. It will be installed on sliding guides, resulting in a telescopic unit.

In order for a homemade crane to function well, you will need to equip it with small diameter cables. They are best purchased at a specialty store. To weld the supporting structure and the rotating frame, it is necessary to use a channel.

Thanks to it, the crane will be well fixed to the surface. For safe operation of the device, it is recommended to weld the platform into a rectangle.

To start the lifting process, you will need to purchase an electric motor and connect it to a winch from the UAZ.

Attention: If you want the electric motor to start electrically, invite a specialized technician. Despite the fact that this procedure is not particularly complicated, for safety reasons it is better to use the services of a professional.

That's the whole process of assembling a Pioneer crane with your own hands.

Specifications

The manufacture and assembly of the Pioneer construction crane has a lot of positive aspects. Installing it on a construction site will help you save on the number of construction workers. With it you can lift roofing materials, timber, working tools and equipment to the required height.

After assembling the homemade device, you can familiarize yourself with its technical characteristics:

The load capacity of the device can vary between 0.5–1 ton. It all depends on the materials used during assembly.
The height of the crane will be 4 meters.
The platform can rotate 360 degrees.

In conclusion, it is worth noting that when starting construction on a personal plot, in order to save money, try to assemble special equipment with your own hands. Of course, you will spend your free time on such manipulations, but you can save a lot. Even large construction companies do not always buy special equipment. They usually resort to renting units.

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We need a crane to build a private house, but renting one is expensive, so we make it ourselves!

Any user of forumhouse.ru will agree with the statement that one of the most necessary equipment during construction is a crane. The steel hero becomes an indispensable assistant when the need arises to lift a large load.

A lifting mechanism is usually associated with a huge structure tens of meters high. However, in private house-building, when compact mechanisms for construction come to the fore, one needs an option with a boom length not exceeding 5-7 meters.

But renting it is not a cheap pleasure, especially if the construction lasts for more than one month.

In this case, there is only one way out - roll up your sleeves and build a homemade mini-crane with your own hands. And our forum members will help you with this!

How to make a homemade faucet

Saving on your own health and trying to manually lift an unbearable load, especially if the construction of a house is carried out independently and without the involvement of hired labor, does not lead to good things. We have already told our readers how to build a vibrating table and vibrating plate on their own. Now we are making a crane with our own hands to build a house called “ mini-pioneer."

“Pioneer” is a mobile collapsible structure, with the help of which the load is lifted to a given height. So homemade The crane can be used when digging foundations and construction and installation work on building houses.

The basis of the mechanism is a supporting running frame, installed permanently or on a mobile chassis. The rotating part of the crane is mounted on the frame. The boom can be rotated manually or electrically. The crane design itself is made on a modular basis and can be disassembled into several parts for the convenience of moving the mechanism from one construction site to another.

The stability of the structure is ensured thanks to a counterweight and steel cable guys (turnbuckles), and the load is lifted using a winch and a block.

The experience of our forum member, who decided to build a mini “Pioneer” on his own, is interesting. He needed this construction mechanism to build a private house from timber.

Voldemort:

“I am almost single-handedly building a house from six-meter timber. It is impossible to lift and carry it alone. That is why I decided to assemble a mechanism in order to take the timber from the stack, place it at the sawing site and lift it to the plinth.

As the height of the building increases, our forum member plans to place a crane on the floor beams of the house.

A forum member assembled the frame from a corner 63x63x5 mm. The 5-meter-long boom was made from a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. To strengthen the structure, two corners 30x30x3 mm were used. Also included in the plans Voldemora includes further extension of the boom by another 2 meters.

Voldemort:

– The lifting capacity of the mechanism is approximately 150 kg, but the design can lift more weight, and in order to achieve this, it is necessary to increase the multiplicity of pulleys.

Translated from Greek, Polyspaston means “tensioned by several ropes.” A chain hoist is a construction device for lifting loads. It consists of several blocks connected to each other by a rope or cable that goes around the blocks in a circle. A pulley block allows you to lift a load with less effort than the weight of the load.

The simplest pulley allows you to get a three-fourfold gain in strength; we should not forget that friction losses are inevitable in this system. Even in the best block models they reach 10%. And the more you gain in strength, the more the distance over which the equipment can move the load decreases.

Voldemort:

– It took me a week to make all the components and mechanisms. I spent another two days assembling and fine-tuning the mechanism. The swing drive and the boom lift drive are a six-fold manual pulley. The lifting drive is also a manual double chain hoist.

Voldemort notes that it would be much more convenient to control a mechanism with electric drives - to lift the load from a remote control on a long cord, as is done in industrial models. But in this case, the complexity of manufacturing all the mechanisms increases significantly, which will lead to an increase in the cost of the design and an increase in the time for manufacturing the crane.

The details of the device's manufacture are interesting.

Voldemort:

– As a turntable, I took two faceplates that I found at work. Basically, I assembled the mechanism from what was at hand. Instead of an axle, I welded a 30 mm bolt. I did not take a bolt made of high-strength steel, because such ones weld worse, do not stretch or bend, and immediately burst if their strength limit is exceeded.

All components of the device are lubricated with lithol.

To reduce the weight of the counterweight, the length of the support legs is 2 meters. When independently manufacturing and calculating the components of such a device, one point should be taken into account. The fact is that with a radius of the rotating faceplate of 200 mm and a distance of 2 meters to a counterweight weighing 100 kg, a tensile load of 1 ton acts on the central bolt. And this does not take into account the weight of the boom and the load being lifted!

It is also important to check the device for stability.

Voldemort:

– To begin with, let’s imagine that our crane is a single beam that rests on one support, and this support should be the shortest distance from the axis of rotation. Three forces act on the beam: the weight of the load, the weight of the counterweight and the mass of the mechanism. In order not to take into account the mass of the boom, I underestimated the weight of the crane by 50 kg. The calculation is approximate and simple, but it is better with it than without it at all.

Boom lift drum Voldemort Made from a tube with a diameter of 100 mm.

Voldemort:

– There is a nuance here - the drum cannot be placed close to the blocks. It needs to be shifted slightly along the axis towards the first block so that the second layer of cable is wound evenly.

A forum member made the blocks from three washers: two large and one small. All blocks are without bearings. It is important to ensure that the blocks bend well with the rope. That is, either the rope must be flexible, or the blocks must be of large diameter. Otherwise, when the boom is raised without load, the cables may fly out of the blocks.

Voldemort:

– My rope has a diameter of 12 mm, but it is very thick - there was simply no other way. If I extend the boom, I will install a more flexible cable with a diameter of 5 mm, because its working load is 150 kg, and its breaking load is 850 kg.

When designing block systems, it is important to understand how the chain hoist works and is calculated. Let's look at this using the example of a mini-pioneer.

Voldemort:

– The principle of operation of a pulley block is similar to the operation of a gearbox - you gain in strength, but lose in the length of the rope and, consequently, the speed of lifting the load.

In a gearbox, the main characteristic is the gear ratio, and in a chain hoist it is the multiplicity, i.e. the ratio of all rope branches to those running off the drum. If we have 6 sections of rope, it means the chain hoist is six-fold.

This means that the pulling load on the drum will be 6 times less than the weight of the load, and the rope itself, if it is designed for 100 kg, then rolled 6 times, will lift 600 kg.

Do-it-yourself construction mini-cranes

The design turned out to be so successful that many of our users decided to repeat it and even give the crane mobility by placing it on a Gazelle.

Forum member with nickname plumag proposes using a similar mechanism with a higher load capacity and equipped with electric drives to install concrete pillars. And in order to be able to transport such an individual crane on public roads, make the structure collapsible and partially and completely install it in the body at the site of the intended work. This will allow you to quickly recoup all costs associated with the manufacture of the device.

At FORUMHOUSE you can learn everything about building cranes yourself, and also get acquainted with the drawings of the mini-pioneer. The portal discusses everything you need to know to make a faucet from scrap metal. From concrete mixer to pipe bender. Forum members threads about making useful homemade crafts that will help you build.

Our video will tell you what tools you need to set up a carpentry workshop. See how to make A yourself in this tool, which will simplify work on your site near the country house.

A homemade crane for dismantling an engine, a photo of making a dismountable crane, and a video of testing a homemade product.

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One day the idea arose to build engine removal crane car, since there is not much space in the garage, which means you need to make a collapsible one!

To build the crane I needed the following materials:

Profile pipe 80 x 80 mm (wall 3 mm) - 7 meters.
Pipe 89 mm - two pieces 0.7 meters long.
Pipe 76 mm - two pieces 0.9 meters long.
Jack - 5 t (Soviet production).
Metal plates 8 mm thick - 4 pcs.
Hook from towing strap.
Wheels 2 straight, 2 swivel + 2 swivel with brake.
Studs M 14 - 1000 mm.

Crane drawings.

Vertical stand.

Jack installation.

Lifting mechanism.

Tested my crane. I suspended a moped of 120 kg, then decided to climb onto the moped myself with another +120 kg - and again it seemed too little! But it is enough to dismantle the engine. I tried and lifted the Gazelle and took a video of the crane in action.

Hook lifting height:

From the ground with a short boom, the lower point is 90 cm, the upper 170 cm.

With a long boom - the bottom point is 80 cm, the top is 180 cm.

Long boom and unscrewed jack rod - bottom 140 cm and top 225 cm.

House and construction /

Users of the portal share their experience in building homemade lifts from simple to complex structures

When building a house from aerated concrete, timber, brick, etc. There is often a need to lift a load. For example, you need to “throw” blocks or wooden beams onto the second floor, lift bags of cement, or pour an armored belt. Doing this manually, even with the help of assistants, is not so easy - health is more expensive. Hiring a truck crane or manipulator for a small amount of work is expensive. The solution is to use a mini-crane, which, to reduce the cost of construction, is made by hand.

How to make a lift for laying aerated concrete.
What parts and tools are needed to build a mini crane.
How to reduce the costs of building a universal lift.

Lift for laying aerated concrete blocks

Abroad, during the construction of private houses, cranes and various lifts are often used. This way construction goes faster, which means the “box” is cheaper, because It is more profitable to use small-scale mechanization tools than to hire laborers. Our developer relies on himself and often builds a house “with one helmet.” Therefore, the urgent question is how not to physically overstrain yourself when laying a wall from aerated concrete blocks weighing 35-40 kg.

An interesting variant of an unusual homemade “assistant” of the FORUMHOUSE user with the nickname Cross. First, let's show what he took as a basis.

German mini crane with retractable central post

A special feature of the lift is the original folding “arm-boom”, with the help of which the crane, moving on wheels, can reach two opposite walls.

I am building a house myself and, in order to be able to lay aerated concrete blocks, I built a lift according to the above model. The crane was made completely collapsible, except for the base. I didn’t measure the maximum load on the hook, but it easily lifts me (weighing 95 kg).

Technical characteristics of the lift:

width – 2200 mm;
height – 4200 mm;
boom radius – 4200 mm;
load capacity of electric hoist – up to 800 kg;
total weight of the crane with ballast is approximately 650 kg;
lift weight without ballast – about 300 kg;
The maximum lifting height of the masonry block is 3500 mm.

The working height of lifting blocks is adjustable in two ranges. The first is 1750 mm. The second is 3.5 m, for which the structure is raised, sliding upward along the supporting “legs” using a hydraulic jack lined with spacers made of GB blocks.

To make the lift, the user needed:

swivel wheels;
profile pipes for the mast, “legs” and boom with a section of 12x12 cm, 12x6 cm, wall 6 mm;
pipe-jibs – 63x3 mm;
powerful gate hinges;
The boom rotating mechanism is made of ST45 steel and “205” bearings.

During operation, the design was modified. For example, the user laid the cable for the winch in a corrugated pipe and extended the cable for the control panel.

The design has a number of shortcomings that I would like to correct. For example, I’m thinking about making wireless control, replacing the gate hinges with bearings. Increase the number of “joints” in the boom at the same reach. Instead of a temporary counterweight - bags of sand concrete, pour concrete ballast.

Important nuance: in order for the lift to move around the construction site or, for example, over the concrete slab of the second floor, it is necessary to keep the workplace clean, because GB fragments and debris interfere with the relocation of the tap.

The design of the unusual lift attracted the interest of portal users.

With such a lift, I think, as they do in Germany, you need to make masonry from blocks larger than standard ones. The length and height are 2-3 times greater than a regular GB. The crane has enough lifting capacity, and the laying speed will increase significantly.

According to Cross, he heard that someone on the portal had already tried to order blocks of 1x0.4x0.6 m format from a gas silicate manufacturer. But it turned out that this was not profitable for the plant, because it is necessary to reconfigure the line for the production of GB, but for the sake of a small volume (for an ordinary private house) they will not do this.

I'm wondering: is the work on site easier when using a crane? What work can be done with it and what cannot?

There is no need to install scaffolding when laying GB walls. The lift can be assembled and disassembled. I poured the concrete lintels over the windows the old fashioned way, from buckets, because... The volume is small, and it’s easier to do it with one assistant.

Grand total: The mini-crane turned out to be successful, and with some modifications to its design, the lift can be put into small-scale production.

Mini crane made from scrap metal

Another version of a lifting mechanism made of metal “lying under your feet” was made by a portal participant with the nickname Peter 1.

According to Peter 1, The reason for building a crane is that the house is getting higher and higher, and the blocks and concrete are getting heavier. Therefore, after revising the “unnecessary things”, the user manufactured a completely dismountable crane with a lifting capacity of 200 kg.

I think my crane can lift more, but I didn’t overload it. The crane can be disassembled into parts weighing 30-60 kg and can be easily transported in a car trailer. I carry an arrow on the trunk. Statically tested a structure weighing 400 kg. I usually lift up to 150 kg. This is quite enough for my construction needs.

At one time, the crane, with a boom reach of 5 m, lifts 10 blocks weighing 15 kg each, or four 15-liter buckets of solution.

The design of the crane is a hodgepodge of what was at hand. Let's list the main details:

swivel unit - truck hub;

Hubs from cars, trucks, and farm equipment are often used to make the swivel assembly in homemade cranes. The main thing is to calculate the loads acting on it and the fasteners.

the boom is made of a pipe with a diameter of 75 mm;

outriggers and base - a rectangular pipe with a section of 8x5 and 8.5x5.5 cm;

the base of the tower is the “200th” channel;

worm gearboxes for boom and cargo winches.

three-phase electric motor with reverse, power 0.9 kW, converted to power from a 220 V network;

The crane turned out to be mobile, and by lowering the boom, it can be moved from place to place, rolling on wheels along compacted soil. Level adjustment is carried out using screw supports.

Metal, gearboxes and rollers were purchased at a recycled metal shop. Only the cable and bearings are new.

The weight of the crane without counterweight is about 250 kg. The cost of the structure, taking into account the purchase of consumables - cutting discs for angle grinders, electrodes for a welding inverter and paint, is 4 thousand rubles.

Crane, + time for turning, + selection of components and fitting of components, I completed it in 3 working days. In the future, after finishing the work, I will completely disassemble it.

Inexpensive mini lift

Practice shows that when building a private house, a real crane is not always needed. Often, a developer can get by with “little expense” and make a small lift based on an electrically driven hoist.

My design is simpler than the authors above, but it suits me quite well. I bought a hoist with a load capacity of 300 kg without a block and 600 kg with a block. Tests have shown that the device can lift a load weighing 250-270 kg, then the engine protection is triggered. During the construction season, I used it to lift about 40 pallets with building blocks, a 6-meter beam for the mauerlat, rafters, mortar for masonry and concrete for the reinforced belt.

The lift, again to save money, is made from used pipes, angles and channels.

All rust was cleaned off with a grinder, and the pipes were sprayed and then painted with paint with a rust reducer.

In order to be able to assemble the lift on the ceiling of the second floor, all components (where welding is not needed) are made collapsible - with bolted connections.

A hoist is installed on the stand using clamps.

In case of rain, a plastic bottle with the bottom cut off is placed on the control panel.

The telpher covers a canopy made of used roofing iron.

When lifting a pallet, two boards are placed under it, and the pallet is lowered onto them.

The entire structure is fixed to the floor with clamps.

Drawing with dimensions of the lift.

As a result, the user has a universal, self-manufacturing and budget “helper” that greatly simplifies the work of building a house.

These are topics that describe in detail how to make a lift for aerated concrete, and provide dozens of options for mini-cranes, from simple to the most complex designs.

Also useful articles: a homemade mini-crane “Pioneer”, features of manual arc welding and the choice of a welding inverter, as well as a homemade mini-tractor with a hydraulic drive.

In the video - how to build a house from aerated concrete without hired workers.

Source of material

Materials for the crane were mainly found in scrap metal. We only had to buy bearings, a winch, and order parts for the turning mechanism from a turner.

And I also had to pay a welder, since I myself cannot do welding work, due to some vision problems.

In general, this crane cost 5,000 rubles, which cannot be compared with the amount of work that I managed to complete with its help, because the “cheapest” helper in our region costs 800 rubles per day.

I’ll immediately make a reservation that during operation, my faucet revealed some shortcomings, which I will point out and advise on how to correct them. So your faucet will be a little different from mine.

Let's start with the rotating mechanism

It consists of six parts that need to be ordered by a turner, and two bearings.

As you can see, there are no dimensions in the drawing. The fact is that you don’t have to follow the exact size, like mine. After all, we make the faucet from available material, and I cannot know what size channel or I-beam, or what kind of pipe you will have at hand.

A little more or a little less doesn’t matter in my design. And you will understand this from further instructions. And having generally estimated what materials and parts you have, determine what dimensions to take for the manufacture of the rotating mechanism.

The mechanism has two bearings. At the top, between the housing and the base, there is a support bearing. Below, again between the housing and the base, there is a simple radial bearing.

Or rather, the housing should be mounted on the bearing, and the base should fit into it. Thus, both of these parts are connected. For more reliable fixation of the radial bearing, a nut is screwed onto the housing from below. The thickness of the threaded and retaining parts of the nut is at your discretion, but not less than 3 mm.

Then this unit is attached to the platform with a bolt (I have an M 26), which attracts the base to the platform. Thus, it turns out that the platform and base are a stationary part of the mechanism, and the body with the nut is rotating.

Now a little about what practice has shown. Towards the end of the season, the radial bearing weakened a little, and a barely noticeable play formed in the turning mechanism.

But with a boom length of 5 meters, this play became noticeably noticeable, so I recommend installing a hub bearing, 36 mm wide, instead of a radial bearing.

Here in Kazan, support and wheel bearings can be bought for 500 rubles both. And to tighten the bolt securing the base to the platform, you will need a spanner with an extension, and definitely two washers - a flat one and a lock washer.

Our next node will be the rack.

To make it you will need a piece of pipe (I have d140) and four pieces of channel. You need to estimate the height of the stand so that when finished it will be just right for you. Even two centimeters lower. Then it will be convenient to turn the winch when operating the crane.

Since God is unlikely to send you a piece of pipe with an evenly cut end, you will have to cut one end yourself. To do this, we take a car clamp, or make a clamp from a strip of tin, and tighten it on the pipe.

When tightened, the clamp will try to position itself on the pipe as evenly as possible, and if you help it a little (by eye), you will get a fairly even line around the circumference of the pipe, which you just have to draw, then remove the clamp, and cut the pipe along this line using a grinder .

Then, the rotating mechanism platform is welded to this flat end of the pipe. Now it’s clear why I didn’t give the dimensions in the drawing? You still have to order the rotating mechanism. And you can find a tuba. This means the diameter of the platform can be ordered according to the diameter of the pipe.

Now the legs. They need to be welded so that the stand does not collapse. How to do it? Firstly, they need to be cut to the same length.

Then hang the pipe with the welded platform, passing the rope through the hole in the center of the platform, and place your legs diagonally towards the pipe, so that in the end, the pipe remains hanging evenly, and your legs rest against it on all four sides.

As soon as the balance is found, you need to draw by eye the corners of the channels that abut the pipe, and trim them with a grinder as shown in the photo.

After trimming the corners, lean your legs against the pipe again, catch your balance, check with a rack and tape so that they form an even cross, and secure them with welding. After tacking, check the cross again, and you can weld.

All that remains is to make the support cross itself. It can be made from any rigid profile. At first there was an idea to put it on wheels made of bearings, but time was running out, and it didn’t come to the wheels, but actually it would have been nice. The unit turned out to be quite heavy, and it was difficult to move it.

The length of the arms of the cross is 1.7 meters, although as operation has shown, this cross does not play a particularly large role in the stability of the crane. The main stability is provided by balance, which we will talk about later.

The cross is not welded to the legs, but is attached with M 10 bolts and nuts. This was done for ease of possible transportation. The legs were reinforced in anticipation of installing wheels, but they never got around to it, although the idea of installing them is still there.

The stand with the rotating mechanism is ready, now let's move on to the crane platform, on which the counterweight, winches, and boom will be installed. I found a one and a half meter I-beam, 180 mm wide, for the platform. But I think you can use a channel and even a 150 x 200 beam under it.

At first I even wanted to use timber, but since I found an I-beam, I chose it. The platform is attached to the rotary mechanism body with four bolts and M 10 nuts.

If you use timber instead of an I-beam, then you will need to make additional platforms for it, above and below. You can “encircle” it with two pieces of channel and tighten everything with bolts.

But we’ll wait with the bolts for now, since the place where the platform is attached to the rotating mechanism will need to be selected based on balance. That is, the crane boom must be balanced by a block for counterweights and a winch. That is, the crane must stand confidently on the stand and not fall over.

Next will be the counterweight block.

I have it made from pieces of the same channel as the platform, but it can be made from anything, and in any way. The main thing is to have a container in which you can install loads, so that if necessary, you can increase the counterweight.

Now about the winch. My winch is installed with a capacity of 500 kg, with a brake. And once again, as practice has shown, such power was not enough to lift a load of about 100 kg.

That is, you can lift it, but you have to lean so hard on the handle that when lifting to a height of more than 5 meters, you get tired very quickly. For such a crane you need a winch of 1 - 1.5 tons.

There was also supposed to be a second winch for lifting the boom, but at that time, having visited a bunch of shops and markets, I could find only one winch with a brake, which you see in the photo. Therefore, instead of a second winch, a temporary tension cable was made, the length of which is still changed using clamps.

Unfortunately, there is nothing more permanent than a temporary structure. I still recommend that you install a winch instead, preferably a worm one. Its speed is low, and the brake, whether up or down, is dead. That's what an arrow needs.

All that remains is to make an arrow, which is what we will do. The boom consists of a mount with a shaft, a beam 150 x 50, and a tip with a pulley.

First, the mounting body. It is better to make it from a piece of channel wood.

Any round timber with a diameter of 20 to 30 mm will do for the shaft. For example, I cut off a piece of the rotor shaft of some old engine. Then we bend it in a vice, put two brackets around this shaft and fasten it to the channel, into which the beam will then be inserted.

We buy two simple bearings, so that they fit tightly onto the shaft, and cut out a seat in the mounting body.

Of course, you can dream up how to secure the bearings in the housing. Besides mine, there are probably a dozen more ways. And I found an ebonite plate, 10 mm thick, from which I made these fasteners.

The boom itself is a beam 150 x 50, 5 meters long. It is inserted into a channel 80 mm wide and 2.5 meters long. True, I had to trim it a little so that it would go inside the channel. I have a channel installed, 3.5 meters long, but this is only because at that time there was no good timber at hand with small knots. I simply played it safe, which, unfortunately, increased the weight of the arrow.

The timber is secured to the channel with ties made from a metal strip 3 mm thick.

At the end of the boom, you need to attach a pulley for the cable. Mine is made from a wheel from a trolley bag. For skilled hands, I think there are plenty of options for attaching the pulley. At first it was fastened between two pieces of plywood, but then I made a fastening from a channel.

Now you can assemble the arrow, if not for one “but”. During operation, the brackets with which the shaft is attached to the channel turned out to be rather weak. So I made them stronger.

And one more addition. My reinforcing part is secured with four bolts. You need to add two more on top to make the knot more rigid. Although mine works fine with four bolts. Otherwise I would have added it long ago.

Now you can assemble the entire crane platform, that is, install a winch on it, a block for counterweights under the winch, and at the other end - a boom lifting body with a boom. If there is, then a second winch, if not, then a guy rope, like I have.

All this is assembled in a lying position, and upon completion it is raised vertically, onto some kind of support. For example, I stacked several pallets on top of each other and placed the assembled platform on them so that the counterweight hung freely downwards.

Then we attach the rotating mechanism to the stand. The most important thing remains - install the platform on the stand so that the boom and counterweight balance each other.

Unfortunately, I don’t have any photographs of the structure that I built for this, well, I’ll try to explain it this way.

This design is a tripod with a block at the top. The height of the tripod is approximately three meters. It is made from 100 x 50 timber. As you probably already guessed, the assembled crane platform needs to be suspended and raised so that a stand can be placed under it.

The platform will be raised using its own winch. To do this, we pass the winch cable through the block and hook it to the boom lifting body, which is located at the opposite end of the platform.

Now, if you operate the winch upward, the entire platform will rise. But during the rise, the arrow, raised up, begins to collapse, so you need to either call a couple of assistants who will fix the arrow in a vertical position, or make another tripod (as I did) with a block 6 meters high, and tie rope to the end of the arrow, let it through the block, and pull it up as the platform rises.

Having suspended the platform in this way and placed a stand under it, you can lower and raise the platform and move the stand to find a position in which the counterweight will balance the boom.

In this position, drill 4 through holes and bolt the platform to the rack. OK it's all over Now. The tap is ready. You can start testing.

Well, a couple of examples of operation:

General view of my faucet:

If the article does not answer your question, ask it in the comments. I will try to answer as quickly as possible.

I wish you success in your work, as well as the opportunity to lift and move everything you need and where you need it.

Light jib cranes with a lifting capacity of up to 1 ton are indispensable when carrying out various electrical, installation and construction works. Thanks to their design, it is possible to install devices in various openings of a building or on ceilings, as well as to move them for convenient use. They are easy to assemble and install, and if necessary, they can be quickly disassembled into their component elements and moved to a suitable location.

The use of such structures is rational in the absence of the possibility of operating other types of hydraulic and hydraulic machines. There are many types of cranes with different designs. They are divided into stationary and mobile. The boom devices are equipped with one electric drive mechanism for moving the load. The crane operates by manual control.

You can independently create a variety of tools and devices that are so necessary for construction and other types of work. Despite the fact that a self-made mini-crane is characterized by a limited transferable load weight (no more than 250 kg), such a design will simplify the implementation of most construction work.

The main task is to select all the tools and parts necessary for creation and subsequent operation. The weight of the prefabricated device can reach up to 300 kg, depending on the materials used. At the same time, it has compact dimensions and the ability to move without preliminary disassembly using a car.

DIY crane: assembly

Using a worm-based gearbox, a cargo winch is formed. It can also provide the creation of a manual drive that simplifies the assembly of the boom winch. The basis for the screw extensions are construction supports. All the elements presented above form the basis of the design. In addition, drums for winches are needed. It is worth noting that not everyone can make them themselves, since the process is complex and labor-intensive, as well as the need for specialized equipment and experience in carrying out such work.

The way out of the situation is rotors from an electric motor, which can be used as a basis and significantly simplify the task. Particular attention should be paid to matching the dimensions of the elements used and the future device. To do this, additional measurements are taken using a ruler.

Additional items

To simplify movement, the platform is equipped with wheels. Elements from the conveyor cart may be useful. When creating the structure, you should not forget about this addition, since it is thanks to it that the simplest crane, assembled with your own hands, moves. To do this, you only need to remove the external support elements, which does not cause any particular difficulties and is done in a short time. It is important to follow safety precautions, in particular the boom must be set to zero level to prevent loss of balance and the crane falling.

Peculiarities

The optimal boom height is 5 meters. For its manufacture, a pipe with a diameter of about 8 cm is used. A profile of two corners is mounted into the base. You also need to create a rotating mechanism to rotate and lift the boom; a car hub from any truck will do for this. There is no need for special materials for the counterweight, since you can use standard bricks for them. You can create a crane with your own hands using both caterpillar tracks and a frame. The last element can be taken from an unused machine.

It is worth noting that there is no need for a brake for the turning mechanism and winch, since it is not needed during the operation of the crane, and the finished device will operate at low speed.

Advantages of the design

A rectangular pipe is suitable for forming an external support structure and a common base. For the latter, according to experts, it will be optimal to use a channel of 200. The length of the thrust screws should be within 50 cm, due to which the crane can be mounted with its own hands on any surface, including those with a large number of irregularities. Thus, there is no need to prepare the site on which the building is being built.

Difficulties sometimes arise with the wheels, since on loose soil they can spin poorly and dig into it. Therefore, it is advisable to carry out work on hard ground. After completion of construction, the structure is disassembled into its component elements for storage.

What can be done for the garage

When repairing a car yourself, there is often a need to remove the engine, so many car owners are wondering how to make a crane with their own hands. The simplest option is a lift, which requires a hand winch, racks on triangular supports with wheels and a transverse pipe.

At the top of the racks, fasteners for the pipe are fixed by welding. A hand winch is welded to the vertical post, and the rollers are mounted on the beam; they are subsequently used to move the cable. In this case, it is not necessary to purchase a winch, since you can make this design yourself.

Such a device will not clutter up the space, it can be disassembled, and the cross beam and supports separately will not take up much space. The crane, created with your own hands for a garage, is capable of lifting and moving a load weighing no more than 800 kg. Its main advantage is that there is no need to purchase expensive materials.

Lift

As noted earlier, you can make a winch yourself. To do this, you will need a drum equipped with a cable; it must be fixed to a structure made of pipes with a square cross-section. A small sprocket with a chain drive is installed on the electric drive, and a large one is installed on the edge of the drum. To create a manual winch, a shaft equipped with a drum is supplemented with a handle.

To replace and repair most parts in a car, a platform or pit is required; if they are not available, you can use a lift. Despite the existing risks when working with such a device, its creation is justified by economic benefits and practical benefits.

An overhead trolley crane, assembled with a winch yourself, is the simplest version of a car lift, with the car being installed on platforms after being raised to the desired height. There is also a scissor design, which is characterized by the absence of the possibility of cable breakage, which the previous option cannot guarantee.

Scissor crane

The base and platform of the scissor lift are made of channels. A two-piece distributor, pump, bushings, hydraulic cylinder and I-beams are required for the shear.

A self-made UAZ crane is capable of lifting loads weighing more than 500 kg. It can also be removed upon completion of work. The main purpose of the device is to fix retractable supports. The base of the structure is made of a thick-walled square, secured to the frame with several bolts. The retractable pores stay on the bumper and raise the rear of the car.

Crane “Pioneer”

The mechanism makes it possible to simplify the implementation of many repair and construction works, as well as to ensure the implementation of actions that cannot be performed without additional lifting devices. The design is suitable for cargo of various volumes and sizes, and it can be installed on the floors of houses under construction, in pits and on the roof.

Among the main components it is worth noting the rotary and support frames, an electric winch, and a control panel. The device does not cause any difficulties in the process of use and the application of significant physical effort. Management is within the power of every person, even those without relevant experience.

Many owners of private houses and summer cottages are engaged in the creation of lifting structures. Their spread is due to the fact that each part of the mechanism, regardless of its complexity, can be performed in the desired manner and with the necessary functionality. In addition to moving heavy loads such as monolithic blocks, such cranes enable the delivery of light objects to great heights.

Unfortunately, the creation of hydraulic devices is, as a rule, not possible. But, despite this, the crane (with your own hands), the photo of which is presented below, is easy to operate and has sufficient lifting capacity.

Assembly of the Pioneer crane

Many parts can be found, surprisingly, in a landfill. For a homemade mechanism, the main components are a rectangular pipe and an I-beam. It is important that the latter fits easily into the pipe. To create a telescopic unit for an I-beam, sliding guides are made. It is worth noting that they must be lubricated with special compounds to reduce the degree of friction.

For the device to function, cables with a small diameter are also required. They can be purchased at a hardware store. A channel is often used to secure the rotating and supporting frames. It also ensures that the device can be firmly mounted on any surface. As a rule, it is the roof of a building under construction. In accordance with safety regulations, the manufacture of a rectangular platform as ballast is required, and it will reduce the likelihood of problems while the crane, assembled with your own hands, is in operation. An electric motor connected to a winch is used to start the lifting process.

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Do-it-yourself crane: drawings, photos of production

A homemade crane for dismantling an engine, a photo of making a dismountable crane, and a video of testing a homemade product.

One day the idea arose to build a crane for dismantling a car engine, since there is not much space in the garage, which means we need to make a collapsible one!

To build the crane I needed the following materials:

Profile pipe 80 x 80 mm (wall 3 mm) - 7 meters.
Pipe 89 mm - two pieces 0.7 meters long.
Pipe 76 mm - two pieces 0.9 meters long.
Jack - 5 t (Soviet production).
Metal plates 8 mm thick - 4 pcs.
Hook from towing strap.
Wheels 2 straight, 2 swivel + 2 swivel with brake.
Studs M 14 - 1000 mm.

Crane drawings.

Vertical stand.

Jack installation.

Lifting mechanism.

Tested my crane. I suspended a moped of 120 kg, then decided to climb onto the moped myself with another +120 kg - and again it seemed too little! But it is enough to dismantle the engine. I tried and lifted the Gazelle and took a video of the crane in action.

Hook lifting height:

From the ground with a short boom, the lower point is 90 cm, the upper 170 cm.

With a long boom - the bottom point is 80 cm, the top is 180 cm.

Long boom and unscrewed jack rod - bottom 140 cm and top 225 cm.

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sam-stroitel.com

Crane made from paste material - Community “DRIVE2 At The Dacha” on DRIVE2

Why do you need a mini crane at your dacha? >

Well, now let's begin. Old donor hub from 412 Moskvich. The base is continued with reinforcement welded into the headboard. Spacers, reinforcements - everything is as it should be.

A kind of parody of a counterbalance. Then we'll strengthen it. I also made a homemade reel here to adjust the tilt of the boom.

Electric winch 0.5t

Just a fitting.

The boom does not yet have tilt adjustment. I just inserted it into a hole in the pipe. Well, of course I tried it. Hanged on her. My weight can bear it.

Oh, it seems Winter is back =))

So far it’s crooked. Then I’ll level it out, but that’ll be for the next race.

After the boom fell several times, due to the fact that the pipe blocking the rotation of the homemade cable reel broke, I bought another winch. By 0.5t to adjust the slope of the pipe. With a stopper, which is important.

Well, the final look

By the way, I welded a handle to the barrel at the level of the center of gravity. Now you can turn it over without any effort

Well now a little video of the work

Now the task was to drag the 150-kilogram structure 40 meters to the well. No problem - an electric winch, a corner, an ax and 2 rods did the job.

Installed. It's already 8 pm. I'll have to try it out.

Everything is great. The barrel was lifted easily. You just need to increase the mass of the counterweight.

Bye everyone. Please comment and suggest improvements. Don't kick too hard, it's a little crooked. The main thing is functionality.

www.drive2.ru

DIY crane | Secrets and nuances

Hello dear homemade people.

Do you really need a crane? So let's do it. Small-sized, with a boom that rotates and lifts, with a carrying capacity of two bags of cement, or 30 pieces of brick, or 3 large buckets of concrete.

I made one for myself, and now I can’t imagine how my wife and I could have built a two-story cottage with an area of 200 m2 if this crane had not existed.

Here are the drawings, and below is a detailed description of the process.

Just a tiny digression first: if anyone is looking for a simple lift for beams or logs, then take a look here.

Materials for the crane were mainly found in scrap metal. We only had to buy bearings, a winch, and order parts for the turning mechanism from a turner.

And I also had to pay a welder, since I myself cannot do welding work, due to some vision problems.

Let's start with the rotating mechanism

It consists of six parts that need to be ordered by a turner, and two bearings.

The mechanism has two bearings. At the top, between the housing and the base, there is a support bearing. Below, again between the housing and the base, there is a simple radial bearing.

Now a little about what practice has shown. Towards the end of the season, the radial bearing weakened a little, and a barely noticeable play formed in the turning mechanism.

But with a boom length of 5 meters, this play became noticeably noticeable, so I recommend installing a hub bearing, 36 mm wide, instead of a radial bearing.

Here in Kazan, support and wheel bearings can be bought for 500 rubles both. And to tighten the bolt securing the base to the platform, you will need a spanner with an extension, and always two washers - a flat one and a lock washer.

Our next node will be the rack.

Now the legs. They need to be welded so that the stand does not collapse. How to do it? Firstly, they need to be cut to the same length.

As soon as the balance is found, you need to draw by eye the corners of the channels that abut the pipe, and trim them with a grinder as shown in the photo.

At first I even wanted to use timber, but since I found an I-beam, I chose it. The platform is attached to the rotary mechanism body with four bolts and M 10 nuts.

Next will be the counterweight block.

Now about the winch. My winch is installed with a capacity of 500 kg, with a brake. And once again, as practice has shown, such power was not enough to lift a load of about 100 kg.

All that remains is to make an arrow, which is what we will do. The boom consists of a mount with a shaft, a beam 150 x 50, and a tip with a pulley.

First - the mounting body. It is better to make it from a piece of channel wood.

We buy two simple bearings, so that they fit tightly onto the shaft, and cut out a seat in the mounting body.

Modern houses are being built higher and higher, but concrete blocks are not getting any lighter. Therefore, if you think carefully, you can build a small crane with your own hands. The carrying capacity is not great, about two hundred kilograms, although, most likely, it can lift more weight, but it is not advisable to overload it. This design turns out to be completely collapsible, its components weigh approximately 20-30 kilograms, so assembling such a crane alone will not pose any special problems. In addition, such a structure is also easy to transport; the body of a Chinese pickup truck was quite suitable for this.

Let us remind you that we have previously published an article about a homemade tiny crane, for those who are interested, take a look.

Crane device

The cargo winch of my design is a worm gearbox with a 600 W electric drive, while the jib winch is a manual drive, organized on the same gearbox. Outriggers with screw stops are borrowed from construction supports. Drums for the winches were machined from rotors from electric motors, and suitable sizes were selected.

On the base of the mobile platform there are four wheels taken from the conveyor; thanks to them, the crane can be moved from one place to another without any problems, only if the outriggers of the crane are removed. This operation of removing and installing outriggers takes about five minutes. Therefore, the crane turns out to be quite mobile. But there is a small drawback: to move the crane, you need to lower the boom to zero, otherwise it becomes impossible to move the crane, since its balance is disturbed.

The boom itself has a length of 5 meters, the pipe was selected to be about 75 mm, and at the base of the boom itself there is a square profile made from two corners. There is also a portal for raising the boom, as well as a turning unit made from a hub from a truck. As a counterweight, a frame from a non-functioning machine was taken along with four tracks from a caterpillar mechanism. In this case, the brake in the winch is not provided, because it is not necessary. There is also no brake in the turn itself, due to the fact that the speeds are very low, and, therefore, there is practically no inertia.

The minimum thickness of the metal used in my crane is about 3 mm; a rectangular pipe with dimensions of 85 * 50 and 85 * 55 is used as an outrigger and base as a whole - this is a kind of remains of agricultural equipment. The base of the tower is made of channel 200. A powerful bearing is inserted into the hook cage, therefore, the hook is able to rotate regardless of the pulley, to avoid overlap or twisting of the cable itself.

The stop screws are 400mm long, allowing the crane to be installed on very uneven surfaces.

There is one small drawback related to the wheels. The thing is that the wheels used in this case, when moving on loose soil, simply bury themselves in it; on a hard compacted surface - everything is fine. This crane is considered disposable, that is, after completing the necessary work, it is disassembled for scrap or into a shelter until the next use. That is why this design has a low load capacity and not very outstanding strength.

The manufacturing time for such a crane will take about three days, taking into account the preparation of all the necessary components. In this case, the gearboxes were made from what came to hand; the gearboxes have the following gear ratios: 1/30 and 1/35. , output parameters on the shaft are 600 W, capacitor capacity is 80 microfarads. All installations without counterweights weigh up to 250 kg, the cost of such a design is 4,000 rubles. Mostly the components used are borrowed from other equipment; only the cables and bearings are new.

Such a crane can easily lift one and a half hundred kilograms of cargo; we have not yet been able to move more at home.

Main components of a crane photo

Any user of the site will agree with the statement that one of the most necessary things during construction is a crane. The steel hero becomes an indispensable assistant when the need arises to lift a large load.

But renting it is not a cheap pleasure, especially if the construction lasts for more than one month.

In this case, there is only one way out - roll up your sleeves and build a homemade mini-crane with your own hands. And our forum members will help you with this!

How to make a homemade faucet

Saving on your own health and trying to manually lift an unbearable load, especially if the construction of a house is carried out independently and without the involvement of hired labor, does not lead to good things. We have already told our readers. Now we are making a crane with our own hands to build a house called “ mini-pioneer."

“Pioneer” is a mobile collapsible structure, with the help of which the load is lifted to a given height. So homemade The crane can be used when digging foundations and construction and installation work on building houses.

The stability of the structure is ensured thanks to a counterweight and steel cable guys (turnbuckles), and the load is lifted using a winch and a block.

The experience of our forum member, who decided to build a mini “Pioneer” on his own, is interesting. He needed this construction mechanism to build a private house from timber.

Voldemort:

As the height of the building increases, our forum member plans to place a crane on the floor beams of the house.

Voldemort:

– The lifting capacity of the mechanism is approximately 150 kg, but the design can lift more weight, and in order to achieve this, it is necessary to increase the multiplicity of pulleys.

Translated from Greek, Polyspaston means “tensioned by several ropes.” A chain hoist is a construction device for lifting loads. It consists of several blocks connected to each other by a rope or cable that goes around the blocks in a circle. A pulley block allows you to lift a load with less effort than the weight of the load.

Voldemort:

The details of the device's manufacture are interesting.

Voldemort:

All components of the device are lubricated with lithol.

It is also important to check the device for stability.

Voldemort:

Boom lift drum Voldemort Made from a tube with a diameter of 100 mm.

Voldemort:

– There is a nuance here - the drum cannot be placed close to the blocks. It needs to be shifted slightly along the axis towards the first block so that the second layer of cable is wound evenly.

Voldemort:

When designing block systems, it is important to understand how the chain hoist works and is calculated. Let's look at this using the example of a mini-pioneer.

Voldemort:

In a gearbox, the main characteristic is the gear ratio, and in a chain hoist it is the multiplicity, i.e. the ratio of all rope branches to those running off the drum. If we have 6 sections of rope, it means the chain hoist is six-fold.

This means that the pulling load on the drum will be 6 times less than the weight of the load, and the rope itself, if it is designed for 100 kg, then rolled 6 times, will lift 600 kg.

Do-it-yourself construction mini-cranes

The design turned out to be so successful that many of our users decided to repeat it and even give the crane mobility by placing it on a Gazelle.

At FORUMHOUSE you can learn everything about self-help, and also get acquainted with the mini-pioneer. The portal discusses everything you need to know to make a faucet, from a concrete mixer to a pipe bender. Topics from forum members about making useful household items that will help you build.

Our video will tell you what tools you need to set up a carpentry workshop. See how to make A yourself in this tool, which will simplify work on your site near the country house.