Diseases of indoor plants. Common houseplant diseases: sticky leaves Red spots on houseplants

Admiring home flowers, caring for them, we sometimes notice that our indoor plants suddenly have sticky leaves for no apparent reason. The alarm bell of anxiety forces us to seek a solution to this riddle.

Sources of the problem

A healthy flower always looks natural and luxurious. Any deterioration in appearance should always be alarming. Why do indoor plants sometimes get sticky leaves? Why have our gentle beauties lost their attractiveness? Is this just an external flaw or is such a phenomenon really dangerous for our green friends?
Unfortunately, this symptom suggests that our pets have become a refuge for small, sometimes invisible insects. Sticky plaque on the leaves of indoor plants is nothing more than an accumulation of waste products of pests. Who could have left him?

We will not be able to cope with other pests without special chemical means of protection. Most of the products used to protect garden plants are suitable for combating them. But, given the specifics, you should choose only those of them that are allowed for indoor or greenhouse use. It is desirable to give preference to drugs with systemic action.

Benefits of exposure to systemic drugs:

they are quickly absorbed into plant tissues;
do not wash off when spraying or wiping flower leaves;
spreading along the veins of the plant (along its "system"), the substances reach even those areas that have not been sprayed;
some of these drugs can be used not by spraying, but by watering at the root, which makes their use easier and safer;
most of these substances have a long exposure period (up to a month), therefore, the need for repeated treatments is reduced;
only such agents are capable of acting on pests covered with a dense cuticle, for example, on scabbards.

Very often, a single treatment of a plant may not be enough. The fact is that acting on adult pests or on their larvae, the drugs do not have a noticeable effect on already laid eggs. After a couple of weeks, new larvae may emerge from them, so after about 2-4 weeks, it is advisable to repeat the treatment.

Prevention is the best answer!

When purchasing a new pet, carefully inspect it so that it does not have the slightest sign of pests. After a new flower appears in the house, do not immediately place it next to other plants. Just in case, let him pass the "quarantine", being far from them. If everything went well, you can place it closer to the "old-timers", creating new interesting compositions.
After the diseased plant has recovered, it must be transplanted. When replanting plants, use new flowerpots for them. If you want to transplant a flower into an old favorite pot, you must first boil it with soapy water.

Periodically carefully inspect home flowers, wipe their leaves, do not allow pests to settle on them. For some plants, it is allowed to have a warm shower from time to time.

The more attentively you treat the flowers, the more magnificently the living decoration of your home will grow!

Most often, domestic plants suffer from fungal diseases and the activity of insect pests. The leaves and root system are affected first. By the characteristic signs of lesions, you can determine the cause of diseases of indoor plants and eliminate it in a timely manner.

High temperatures and high humidity are excellent breeding grounds for bacteria. For this reason, flowers should be sprayed and watered in moderation, as excess moisture increases the likelihood of the spread of pathogens.

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Alternaria

Alternaria refers to diseases of a fungal nature, in which the leaves, tubers and stems of the plant are covered with brown spots. The causative agents are fungi of the genus Alternaria. First, the disease affects the lower leaves, and then the lesion rises higher in concentric circles. Over time, the spots turn black and grow. Alternaria progresses especially with sudden changes in temperature.

The best environment for the development of microorganisms is a warm and damp microclimate, when the humidity in the room is 90%, and the temperature is + 30 ° C.

Prevention of such a disease is good ventilation. Ventilation helps fight mold. Also, a high density of shoots should not be allowed in order to exclude the source of bacteria: excess branches with leaves should be removed in a timely manner.

Anthracnose

The disease is caused by deuteromycetes of the genera Gloeosporium, Colletotrichum, Kabatiella. The spots on the affected leaves can have a different shade: sometimes they are gray-yellow, in other cases brown or purple. Growing up, the spots acquire a brown tint. Spores are formed on them, which appear in the form of hairs. In these places, the surface of the sheet is rough.

The fungus is frost resistant and spreads with watering. It develops at high humidity and high temperatures.

In the initial stages of the disease, affected leaves are removed, watering of the plant is reduced in order to reduce moisture. Plants are sprayed with Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate, and Strobi fungicide.

Ascochitosis

Phytopathology is accompanied by the appearance of small brown spots 1-2 mm in diameter on the leaves. Growing up, they darken, a yellow border forms along the edge of the spot. When the disease affects the stem, it fractures at the site of infection. The first signs of the disease appear in the form of drying of the tips of the leaves. A darkened, brown stripe appears on the border with the healthy part.

The fungus - the pathogen is very resistant, withstands frost and drought well. Transferred with water droplets when spraying. Control measures are the same as for anthracnose.

Downy mildew

The disease is provoked by the activity of fungi - oomycetes. At the initial stage of the disease, yellow spots of irregular configuration appear on the upper part of the leaf plate. Over time, they turn brown and then turn brown. A gray bloom appears on the lower half of the leaf, which then turns black. Diseased leaves gather in corrugations, turn yellow and fall off. In the later stages, the disease affects the vascular system of the plant. On a cut, this manifests itself in the form of darkened vessels.

The ideal conditions for the development of phytopathology are:

high acidity of the soil substrate;
high humidity;
limited access to fresh air, poor ventilation of the room.

The source of the disease is poor disinfection of seeds and soil. As a preventive measure, the seeds are kept in water at a temperature of + 50 ° C for 20 minutes before planting. Warm seeds are dipped in cold water for 3 minutes and then air dried.

The room maintains a low humidity. Bushes require constant thinning to improve air access. In order to disinfect, the soil must be changed periodically.

When the disease has spread to the plant, the infected leaves and side branches are removed. Spraying is carried out with Bordeaux liquid, Bravo or Quadris preparations. If the soil is already infected, then spraying is excluded.

To avoid powdery mildew, houseplants should not be fertilized with nitrogen fertilizers, especially when budding is in progress. Since spores can easily travel a considerable distance, bacteria can be brought in from the trees outside the window. The development of the disease is affected by a lack of air, but drafts are also contraindicated. The affected buds can be treated with sulfur, milk whey or milk.

Rust on the leaves

With this disease, rusty spots appear on the leaves. If you rub them in your hand, a powder is formed. This disease also belongs to fungal. It appears as a result of abundant watering, lack of sufficient lighting and lack of fresh air.

Sometimes the disease enters the ground along with the seeds. It is impossible to recognize it in advance, therefore, before planting, the soil and seed are treated with potassium permanganate. Fungus spores can be carried in by the wind if the flowerpot is on the window. Therefore, in the spring, all plants should be treated with a Bordeaux mixture for prevention purposes. If only a small part of the leaves is rusty, they should be removed.

Rust stains can be caused by improper dosage of fertilizers. If the soil substrate has not changed for a long time, the soil should be completely replaced.

Gray rot

Fungal disease caused by the activity of conidia and sclerotia on dead plant areas. First, the stem is affected, which is covered with a grayish-olive bloom. Later, the disease spreads to leaves and flowers.

Such pests can be:

Aphid. An insect that sucks sap from plant tissues.
Cyclamen mite. It sticks to the surface of the leaves, a large accumulation of mites looks like dust.
Nematode. It is difficult to fight these pests, but they rarely affect indoor flowers.
Mealybug. It is a small beetle covered in fluff.
Shield. It is protected by a wax shield, so the preparations have no effect on the insect.
Grape elephant. A beetle that feeds on leaves.
Caterpillars. Indoor plants are rarely affected.

The maintenance of indoor plants requires constant care and maintaining the right climatic conditions. You need to monitor the main factors: humidity and air temperature in the room. A sharp drop or increase in these indicators should not be allowed. It is necessary to change the soil more often and check its acidity. This way you can avoid damage to indoor plants by fungal diseases and pests.

Many growers complain that petunia leaves are covered with a white coating. Why is this happening. Let's try to figure it out in this article.

Petunia leaves are covered with a white coating for several reasons. In this article, we will analyze the main reasons for the unpleasant phenomenon.

White bloom is not a good symptom. He testifies to the disease of petunia.

If the leaves of the petunia are covered with a white coating, then most likely it is powdery mildew. It can also be downy mildew.

How to distinguish powdery mildew from downy mildew?

Powdery mildew is one of the most common plant diseases, including petunias. This disease is fungal. It manifests itself in a white bloom on leaves, stems and flowers. If you do not take any measures, the plant will dry up and die. Powdery mildew is caused by factors such as:

High air humidity.
Large temperature drops.
Lack of nutrients.

Downy mildew manifests itself practically. In order to distinguish downy mildew from real, you should pay attention to plaque spots. Also, powdery mildew strangles the whole plant, and downy mildew affects the green parts of the plant. Downy mildew has a very characteristic “fluffy” white coating.

You can also distinguish by conditions. Powdery mildew appears in conditions of high humidity, and false mildew appears in conditions of a lack of moisture.

Fighting powdery mildew on petunias: what to do?

If you have determined that your flowers are covered with a white coating due to powdery mildew, then the following remedies are perfect for the fight:

Fundazol;
Topaz;
Acrobat MC;
Previkur;
Speed;
Vitaros;
Amistarextra.
Fitosporin.

These drugs work well enough for powdery mildew. Follow the instructions on the package.

Fighting downy mildew on petunias.

If the leaves of the petunia are covered with a white coating due to downy mildew, then the following remedies can be used:

A solution of Iodine and milk. (We drip 10 drops of iodine in 1 liter of milk and mix in 10 liters of water. Spray petunia with this solution). This tool helps very well.
Polycarbacin.
Copper oxychloride.

All of these products can be bought without any problems at the gardener's store. They help a lot and white plaque will disappear very quickly.

Help! In September I bought a violet, which bloomed safely until January, but in early February the young leaves of the violet were covered with strange spots. At the same time, the leaves did not lose their elasticity. What it is? How to treat?

As a rule, spots on the leaves of a violet are not a disease, but a flower's reaction to environmental influences.

MAIN REASONS FOR SPOTS ON VIOLET LEAVES:

Leaf sunburn
Negative effect of cold air currents on sheet plates
Cold water is used for irrigation
Chemical burn of roots

Daylight hours in February increased markedly, and the leaves, not used to such a bright light, received a sunburn. It is not for nothing that the author of the question writes that only young leaves that have grown just in December-January are affected by spots. The appearance, of course, suffered, but this does not affect the health of the plant.

In order to avoid sun markings in the future, we recommend gradually accustoming Saintpaulia to sunlight.

In winter, violets have similar spots for another reason. For example, if a window was opened in a room where it is dry and hot enough. The blast of cold air sometimes leaves similar marks on the leaves.

Often, when watering violets with cold water, the leaves become covered with brown spots.

And finally, this may be due to the excessive enthusiasm of the grower with feeding. We recommend that you give up any fertilizers for a while, water the flower on top with a syringe. If the number of marks increases, replace the potting soil.

The most common plant diseases that occur on indoor flowers are described here. Attention: any plants in violation of agricultural practices (bay, hypothermia, overfeeding with fertilizers) or when planting in non-disinfected soil may show signs of several diseases. In the world around us, there are not one or two types of microorganisms, but millions. We can guess the disease by the single characteristic spots. There are specific diseases that cannot be confused with anything: gray rot (long filaments of gray mold), powdery mildew (leaves seem to be covered with white dust), dropsy of leaves in succulents (green pimples, the plant is not oppressed), ring patterns from viruses and some others.

But very often, plants manifest several diseases at the same time, for example, in orchids, tracheomycosis (fusarium) and at the same time septoria or phyllosticosis. Root rot and alternaria. The good news is that those offered to us in the store are usually effective against many diseases. But do not forget that for personal households (i.e. for home) drugs of 3 and 4 hazard classes are allowed.

Alternaria and dry spot

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Alternaria. The fungus attacks mainly leaves, sometimes stems and tubers.

Symptoms: Dry brown spots appear first, primarily on the lower leaves and then on the upper leaves. Concentric circles are usually visible on the spots. With an increase in the spot, it gradually turns black, and gray conidia become visible on it.

Frequent temperature changes and changes in humidity contribute to the spread of the disease, i.e. alternation of dry and wet periods. But the optimal conditions for the development of the fungus are at temperatures above about 25-30 ° C and humidity up to 90%.

Prevention

Avoid thickening of the plants, while cutting out excess branches and leaves. Ventilate the room or greenhouse; if the flowers are on the balcony, make sure that there is good ventilation and that mold does not grow on the walls - this is an indicator of microclimate violations.

Control measures

Fungicides used to combat Alternaria:

abiga peak 50 g per 10 l of water
acrobat MC 20 g per 5 l of water
oxyhom 20 g per 10 l of water
home 40 g per 10 l of water
vitaros 2 ml per 1 l of water

Anthracnose

The causative agent is fungi of the genera Colletotrichum, Gloeosporium, Kabatiella. Palms, ficuses, anthurium, etc. are more often affected.

Symptoms: The disease affects the leaves, stems, petioles and fruits of plants. Spots on different plants, and depending on the pathogen, they look different.

Kabatiella zeae - causes the formation of small round or irregular spots, 2-5 mm in diameter with a clear outline. Looks like a yellow spot with a brown or black dot inside. If the spot is larger, instead of a black dot, a dark rim forms, and inside it a grayish ring.
Colletotrichum orbiculare - usually reddish-brown, often with a light yellow border, spots, 2 to 12 mm. On some plants the spots are pale green. Rounded or elongated in shape. In the affected areas, the spots merge, dry out, become like parchment, crack, and holes form.
Colletotrichum trichellum - large yellowish-brown or gray-brown spots on leaves and stems with dark sporulation pads. If you look closely, it is noticeable that on the spots on the upper side of the leaf, the surface is not smooth, but covered with fluffy hairs of spores, however, spores are noticeable even with a strong damage to the plant. On fruits, spots are gray-brown with a dark center, depressed.

Anthracnose develops rapidly in greenhouse conditions, i.e. at high air humidity (about 90-100%) and an elevated temperature of 22-27 °. And also with frequent (several times a day) spraying of plants. The fungus is frost-resistant - it remains in plant debris, in seeds and spreads with water when watering.

Prevention

Removal of leaves with suspicious stains, disinfection of the earth, dressing of seeds. Quarantine suspicious plants bought at the store. If there are signs of a disease, it is necessary to stop spraying the plants.

Control measures

Spraying, usually three treatments are sufficient, using fungicides:

oxyhom 15-20 g per 10 l of water
: 100 g per 10 l of water
colloidal sulfur: 50-100 g per 10 liters of water
strobi fungicide, in the system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 l of water
abiga-peak: 50 g suspension per 10 l of water

Ascochitosis

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Ascochyta. The most severe lesions are caused by ascochitis of chrysanthemums, to which plants of the Compositae family are most often susceptible.

Symptoms: at the initial stage, small, only 1-2 mm reddish or brown spots appear on the leaves, sometimes brown, reddish with a yellowish or brown rim, of various shapes. The spots increase in size and acquire a dark brown necrotic shade with a yellowish chlorous border along the edge. Small black spores of the fungus can be seen only with a magnifying glass. If the growth of the fungus on the stem rings it, then the stem breaks easily.

Sometimes the disease begins with signs of drying out of the plant - the tips of the leaves begin to dry out, a dark brown stripe forms on the border with healthy tissue. The pathogen is very resistant to deep temperature changes, i.e. tolerates severe drought and freezing of the soil. It is preserved on plant residues, seeds. The disease spreads with the wind, non-disinfected soil, water drops.

Prevention and treatmentas for.

Dropsy of leaves (edema)

A disease caused not by a fungus or bacteria, but as a result of waterlogging of the soil, often with a lack of lighting. It usually manifests itself in succulents, typical for peperomias, fat women, Kalanchoe, possibly on pelargonium, sheffler.

Symptoms: the plant, most often on the underside of the leaf, appears barely noticeable pimples, seem watery, but actually dense, sometimes, like cork growths, some look like warts, the color of the leaf can be preserved, i.e. spots are green, can acquire a gray necrotic color. This is due to the fact that some of the roots die off (from overdrying, overmoistening, hypothermia), nutrition is disrupted through the conducting vessels, which were supplied by these roots. Since waterlogging is not strong, the soil had time to dry out, rotting did not spread further, but the spots remained. The affected leaves will no longer recover, but if the plant is in good conditions, the new leaves will be healthy.

The difference between dropsy (edema) from other diseases, root rot is that the plant is not depressed, it grows noticeably, and the spots themselves in small areas affect 1-3 leaves on the bush. Leaves with dropsy do not turn yellow, do not dry out and do not fall off!

Treatment and prevention: Adjust watering, do not fill, loosen the soil after abundant watering and when compacting the soil in the pot. Make up the soil with a high proportion of draining, loosening particles - at least 1/5 or 1/4 of the pot volume.

Downy mildew (Peronosporosis)

The causative agents are fungi of the genera Peronospora, Plasmopara, Pseudoperonospora, Mildew. The disease can affect any indoor plants, but the disease is quite rare.

Symptoms: on the upper side of the leaves, yellow, then brown spots of irregular shape are formed, with a false mealy rose of cucumbers, the spots are angular (specific structure of the leaf). Gradually, necrosis occurs in these places, and the spots become brown. On the underside of the leaves - at the beginning of the disease, a light gray plaque from the conidial sporulation of the pathogen that has emerged on the leaf surface through the stomata, then this plaque gradually turns black. The diseased leaves turn yellow, become wrinkled or corrugated, wither and dry out. The causative agent, with a strong degree of damage, can penetrate into the vascular system, which is noticeable on the cut in the form of darkened vessels (mycelium and spores).

The disease prevails on heavy acidic soils. The spread is aggravated by high humidity and poor ventilation. The source of infection is not disinfected soil and seeds.

Prevention

Maintaining low humidity, regular airing, thinning and cleaning bushes. Soil change and disinfection. If signs of disease are already detected, avoid spraying and when watering, getting water on the leaves.

Seed preparation for sowing:

immersing them in hot water at 50 ° C for 20 minutes, followed by rapid cooling in cold water for 2-3 minutes
soaking in a seed dressing agent, for example, Maxim

Control measures

Removal of diseased leaves and severely affected branches. You can use preparations containing copper: oxychom, cuproxat, 1% solution, ordan. These fungicides are more readily available (cheap and effective) for the treatment of garden and horticultural plants. You can get more modern drugs: Quadris, Bravo - but they are not sold in small packages, they are intended only for agriculture (in cans and bottles), gardeners usually purchase them in collective purchases.

For the simple grower, fungicides are available:

topaz 4 ml per 10 l of water
abiga-peak 50 g of suspension per 10 l of water
oxyhom 15-20 g per 10 l of water, three times

Start the treatment at the first signs of the disease and repeat every 7-10 days, especially carefully treat the underside of the leaves. It is necessary to carry out at least 3-4 treatments.

Preparations: pure flowers, fast, rayok are ineffective against downy mildew.

Powdery mildew

Common plant disease caused by fungi of the species Podosphaera fuliginea, Erysiphe cichoracearum and Oidium - powdery mildew on Oidium grapes.

Symptoms: At the onset of the disease, small mealy specks appear on flowers and leaves. They are easily erased, but then reappear and grow in size, becoming a saturated gray color. Gradually, the mycelium thickens and becomes almost brown. Mealy bloom can be on both sides of the leaf. The leaves gradually dry up, the buds and flowers crumble, the growth of the plant stops. The most favorable conditions for the development of the disease are high humidity - about 60-80% and warm air within 15-26 ° C.

Of domestic plants, powdery mildew most often affects: laurel, Saintpaulia, gloxinia, roses, gerbera, Kalanchoe, etc.

Prevention

To prevent powdery mildew of indoor plants and flowers, sulfur pollination can be carried out 3-4 times over the summer. Overfeeding plants with nitrogenous fertilizers, especially during the budding period, increases the risk of powdery mildew. On the contrary, feeding with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers increases the resistance to the pathogen of powdery mildew. You should also ventilate the room more often, avoiding cold drafts. Pay attention to the bushes and trees that grow under your windows, if they show signs of a disease, you constantly need to be on the lookout - fungus spores are easily carried by the wind.

In addition to sulfur treatment, prophylactic spraying with milk whey (skim milk) can be carried out. Regular whole milk will work, but whey is preferable (fewer marks on the leaves), dilute with water in a 1: 3 ratio and spray the plants. For prophylaxis, repeat after 2 weeks.

Fighting powdery mildew at home

If powdery mildew has got on indoor flowers, and violets (Saintpaulias), potted gerberas, indoor roses are especially susceptible, then you can use the same means as for garden plants, except for highly toxic ones (bayleton), but preference should be given to fungicides such as topaz , speed

You can use the drugs Chistotsvet, Skor, Raek - all of them are available in small packaging, contain difenoconazole, diluted with 2 ml per 5 l of water. For fruit trees, vegetables and berries, we dilute 2 g per 10 liters of water, a maximum of 4 treatments: the first one - on a green cone, the rest - after 12-14 days, stop processing 20 days before harvesting.

It is safe enough to spray from powdery mildew at home with a solution of soda ash and copper sulfate: dilute 10 g of soda ash and 2 g of soap (household, tar) in 1 liter of water, dissolve 2 g of copper sulfate separately in a glass of water. Pour the copper solution into the soda solution, add water to a volume of 2 liters of liquid and spray the plants.

If you heard from someone a recipe for combating powdery mildew with antibiotics, do not try to repeat, penicillins, tetracyclines and other antibiotics do not work on fungal infections, in extreme cases, they will help against bacteriosis, but no more.

You can use drugs such as Topaz, Vectra, Hom, Oxyhom, Bordeaux liquid (1%). How to get rid of powdery mildew on gooseberries, currants, roses and other garden crops - read more:.

Spraying with iodine solution helps as a prevention and treatment: dilute 1 ml of alcoholic pharmacy tincture of iodine in 1 liter of water. Roses can be increased in concentration - dilute 1 ml with 400 ml of water.

Septoriasis

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Septoria.

Symptoms: dark brown or dark gray spots with a yellowish border (on anthurium) or, like on azaleas, small reddish or reddish-yellow spots that gradually increase. Then blackening appears on the spots in the center - the fruiting organs of the fungus, which can even overwinter on the leaves at sub-zero temperatures and the disease will begin to spread in spring. Some forms of septoria have different manifestations (depending on the type of plant):

The causative agent Septoria albopunctata - looks like small 2-5 mm reddish-purple or brown spots with a gray center. As the disease progresses, the spots increase, and in the center of some of them you can see small dark brown or black spores of the fungus. Over time, the spots merge, turn brown, and the leaf dries out. The ideal conditions for the development of the disease are high humidity and temperatures ranging from 28-31 °.
The causative agent Septoria populi, the so-called white spot, first causes the formation of small whitish or gray spots with a brown rim along the edge, round or oval in shape.

Prevention

Removal of leaves with suspicious stains, disinfection of the ground, seed dressing. If there are signs of a disease manifestation, it is necessary to stop spraying the leaves, improve air circulation (ventilation).

Septoria treatment

When the spots have already appeared and spread further, it is necessary to spray using chemicals: among them, the popular in horticulture 1% solution (100 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water to dilute strictly according to the instructions), a solution of copper oxychloride (hom , oxykhom), copper sulfate (100 g per 10 liters of water). And:

colloidal sulfur 50-100 g per 10 l of water
strobes in the system with other fungicides, 4 g per 10 l of water
abiga-peak 40-50 g per 10 l of water
fungicides: pure flowering, fast, rayok, discor, keeper - any dilute 4 ml in 5 liters of water
vitaros 2 ml per 1 l of water

Repeat spraying after 7-10 days.

Gray rot

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Botrytis Botrytis.

Symptoms: Most often, the affected areas are on the stems in the form of a fluffy grayish-olive bloom. With further development, the disease spreads to leaves, flower ovaries and fruits.

Over time, the lesion takes the form of dry rot with concentric spots. After a few days, the spot grows and rings the stem. The first week on the spot there is no sporulation of the fungus, it turns pale in the center to a straw color, blurry ring-shaped stripes become visible. Gray rot is similar to gray loose cotton wool or mold. Tissue necrosis develops inside the stem, while the vessels die off, and the movement of water stops. Escape above this zone fades.

Prevention

Preventive measures include soil disinfection during transplantation (heating in an oven or microwave), regular airing of rooms, removal of dying leaves and thinning of seedlings, good lighting. Avoid waterlogging the soil, especially in a cool environment, if the flowers are on the balcony in early spring or late summer - autumn. When transplanting, trichodermin, barrier, barrier, or phytosporin can be added to the soil (shedding soil).

Control measures

At the first sign of disease, remove diseased leaves and inflorescences. Sprinkle the affected area with charcoal powder, chalk or wood ash. You can make a paste from the preparation of Trichodermine (moisten a small amount of powder with water) and also coat the affected areas. Spraying with topsin-M solution (0.1%) or phytosporin solution (diluted to tea color). For severe damage, spray:

(0,2%)
copper-soap solution: 0.2% copper sulfate and 2% laundry soap
fungicides: pure flowers, fast, rayok - any dilute 4 ml in 5 l of water

Repeated treatments are carried out after 7-10 days.

Sooty fungus

Appears in the form of a dry sooty film on aucubus, buxus, laurel. It is caused by the Capnopodium fungus, which colonizes the secretions of aphids, whiteflies, mealybugs. Plaque itself is not harmful to the plant, but it clogs the stomata on the leaves, thereby disrupting the respiration process. The plant slows down growth and weakens.

Control measures: timely spraying against pests that form sweet secretions (aphids, scale insects, thrips). After curing diseases, wipe the affected plants with a sponge dipped in soapy water, rinse with warm clean water, treat with phytosporin: take a liquid or paste and dilute in a glass of water until the color of weak tea. Spray the leaves.

Sometimes a sooty fungus settles on the surface of leaves affected by other fungi, take a closer look at the nature of the spots, and quarantine the plant.

Leaf rust

The causative agent is rust fungi, for example, of the genus Phragmidium or Puccinia.

Symptoms: expressed in the appearance on the upper surface of the leaf of orange-brown tubercles, sometimes yellow or red round spots. On the reverse side of the sheet, pustules are clearly visible - pads (like warts) of an oval or round shape. Gradually, the spots develop into stripes, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

Prevention

The disease is provoked by uneven watering and high humidity, but even with good care, infection is possible at home through cut garden flowers or with new store-bought potted plants, for example, gerberas. The infection can also get in the garden soil, because rust often infects apple or pear trees.

Control measures

Remove affected leaves and branches. Spray with fungicides:

abiga-peak 50 g per 10 l of water
bayleton 1 g per 1 liter of water
vectra 2-3 ml per 10 liters of water
10 g for 1 liter of water
oxyhom 15-20 g per 10 l of water
ordan 20 g per 5 liters of water
strobe
4 ml for 10 l of water
home 40 g per 10 l of water

Repeat the treatment 2-3 times after 10 days. Biological products do not help against rust: phytosporin, bactofit, etc.

Phylosticosis (brown spot)

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Phyllosticta. Of home flowers, hibiscus, roses, orchids, etc. are susceptible to disease.

Symptoms: Small dark reddish or deep purple dots appear on the affected plants first. They grow and turn into brown spots with a purple, almost black border around the edge. The middle of the spot becomes thinner, dries up and falls out in plants with non-leathery leaves, holes are formed. When viewed through a magnifying glass, black rounded spores can be seen in the brown areas of the spot. The disease spreads with the wind, non-disinfected soil, water drops.

Phylosticosis of orchids manifests itself in small specks of about 2 mm in diameter, dark brown, slightly depressed, holes are not formed, the disease is often called "black spot", since the leaf is mottled with small specks like a rash - the spots do not merge into large ones, remain loose, but the leaf turns yellow, and then the spores of the fungus become noticeable. The disease spreads quickly enough, since orchids are often in an atmosphere of high humidity.

Prevention

Compliance with the rules of care and hygiene - timely watering as needed, but not more often, pour water only at the root, water should not fall on the root collar, in the leaf axils. Use only warm water for irrigation, without chlorine and salts (iron, calcium). Make sure the plants have enough light, weakened chlorotic leaves are more susceptible to infection. Ventilate the house or rooms, avoiding drafts. Ventilation should be very good - an indicator of proper ventilation - no mold in the bathroom, the perimeter of the window frame, the corners of the rooms. Observe the temperature regime, take into account the specific requirements of orchids and other plants - deviation from the norm and habitual care weakens the immune system.

Treatment of phyllosticosis

fungicide vectra - dilute 2-3 ml of the drug in 10 liters of water
abiga-peak - 50 g per 5 l of water
strobe - 4 g per 10 l of water
oxyhom 20 g per 10 l of water
fungicides: pure flowering, fast, rayok, discor, keeper - any dilution of 1 ml per 1 liter of water
vitaros 2 ml per 1 l of water

Spraying at the appearance of the first signs of a disease or prophylactic, then subsequent at intervals of 7-10 days. In some plants, you can safely remove the affected leaves (for example, in hibiscus), in orchids, do not rush to cut out the affected areas to healthy tissue, this can further weaken the plants. You can trim the leaf only when it has already turned very yellow. For the rest, treat by spraying.

Root rot

This is a group of diseases caused by a number of pathogenic fungi of the genera: Pythium, Rhizoctonia, Phytophthora and others. All these diseases sooner or later appear on the crown, tops of plants, but infection begins through the root system. If the pathogen is serious, and the plant is young (cutting, seedling, seedling), then the leaves do not even have time to start turning yellow - the roots and the lower part of the stem quickly rot.

Orchids, Saintpaulias, cacti and succulents are most susceptible to root rot. The reason is a violation of agricultural technology.

The black leg is the scourge of seedlings, manifests itself in decay of the lower part of the shoot, cutting. Rot is most typical - blackening, softening of tissues. A very part of the black leg affects the waterlogged soil, poor aeration, if the clods of earth are so dense that there is a constantly anaerobic environment around the roots. The source of infection is non-sterilized soil mixtures, inventory, pots and seed boxes after diseased plants.

Late blight

This is a type of root rot. In this case, the plant first slows down growth, withers somewhat, the leaves lose color, become pale, only then the roots rot and the plant dies. The first impression with this disease is that the plant does not have enough water, but after watering the turgor is not restored, and the leaves fade even more. In plants with dense leaves, the leaves do not fade, but are covered with brown extensive spots that start from the central vein.

Prevention

Choose the right soil for your plants, add more porous, draining materials to help structure the soil. Do not use fine river sand or sand from a children's sandbox (quarry) - it cements the earthen mixture! Use small pebbles with a particle size of 3-4 mm, such as can be purchased in specialized departments and aquarium stores, or sift river pebbles. When planting, add the preparation to the plant pot

Make sure that the soil is not waterlogged, water after the permissible degree of drying: if it is indicated that watering is plentiful, it means that the soil in the pot should dry out about 1/2 or 1/3 of the top of the pot by the next watering. If you immerse your finger in the ground, you will find that the soil is dry on top, and a little wetter (cooler) inside the pot - then you can water.

If moderate watering is recommended for the plant, then the soil should dry out completely - if you immerse your finger in the pot, it should also be dry inside (the finger does not feel that it is cooler, wetter there). Of course, you shouldn't stick your fingers into the ground before every watering. Just wait for the soil to dry on top and wait another 2-3 days before watering, so that it has time to dry out in the depths. And if it suddenly gets colder and the temperature has dropped, you may need to wait even longer - 5-7 days before the next watering.

To propagate indoor plants, only cut off healthy cuttings and leaves. Be sure to sterilize the soil for planting cuttings, especially if you are breeding plants that are very susceptible to late blight and root rot (for example, Gesneriaceae, gardenia, shefflera). Old, already used pots, in which the plants have died, must be scalded with boiling water.

Before planting, soak the seeds in a dressing agent, use, for example, the drug maxim.

Control measures

With a large development of root rot, when a significant part of the roots has died, and most of the shoots have wilted, have lost their elasticity, treatment is useless. If the tip of the petiole or twig turns black on the rooting cuttings, you can cut it off, drop phytosporin into the water and put it back on rooting.

If the plant shows signs of wilting, while the soil is damp, it is necessary to urgently remove the plant from the pot. Flush the root system, remove rot. If healthy roots are still preserved, process them (soak for a few minutes) in a fungicide solution:

alirin B - 2 tablets per 10 l of water
gamair - 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
ordan 5 g per 1 liter of water
3 ml for 2 liters of water
bactofit 10 ml per 5 l of water
oxyhom 10 g per 5 l of water
home 20 g per 5 l of water
vitaros 2 ml per 1 l of water

Spotting

This is a whole group of diseases that are both fungal and bacterial in nature.

Causative agents - fungi of childbirth Ascochyta, Colletotrichum, Phyllosticta, Pestalotia, Septoria, Vermicularia and others. Spotted diseases are diseases, the causative agent of which is difficult to identify, it can be anthracnose, septoria, phyllostictosis, ascochitosis, but the specificity of the spots is not expressed. At the same time, brown spots appear on the leaves of the plant, which, with the spread of the disease, grow in size, merge and affect the entire leaf. If the plant is strong enough, disease resistant, or very well cared for, the spots grow slowly and the leaves also dry out slowly.

Spot prevention

Violations of conditions of detention contribute to the development of diseases. This waterlogging is especially aggravated by hypothermia of the root system (after watering with cold water or when transporting from the store home in the cold season). Spots can also develop in warm, humid conditions, especially with poor air circulation and planting in dense clay soil.

Avoid overcrowding and over-watering. Ventilate the room, greenhouses regularly and provide good lighting. For prevention, water the plants with a solution of the drug or bactofit. Can be added to pots when planting drug tablets.

Control measures

In gardening conditions, collect and destroy any plant debris stained by dead plants. For indoor flowers, trim off affected leaves and branches. Spray with fungicides that can fight most fungal infections.

abiga peak 50 g per 10 l of water
acrobat MC 20 g per 5 l of water
oxyhom 20 g per 10 l of water
home 40 g per 10 l of water
alirin-B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
vectra 3 ml per 10 l of water
1% solution of Bordeaux liquid (100 g of copper sulfate + 100 g of lime per 10 liters of water to dilute)
copper sulfate: 100 g per 10 l of water
vitaros 2 ml per 1 l of water

At home, indoor flowers for spotting should be tried to be treated with more affordable and simple means: use the preparations Chistotsvet, Skor, Raek - all of them are available in small packaging, contain the same active ingredient - difenoconazole, you need to dilute 2 ml per 5 liters of water. Spray the leaves with the solution, repeat after 2 weeks. Add zircon (6 drops per 1 liter of solution) to the solution of these fungicides Chistotsvet, Skor, Raek.

Red burn

The causative agent is a fungus of the genus Stangospore Staganospora. A disease characteristic of hippeastrum and some bulbous.

Symptoms: red narrow spots appear on the leaves and peduncles, on which spore-bearing crusts subsequently form, the scales of the bulbs completely turn red. In a sick plant, deformation of leaves and flowers begins, flowering does not start or stops, the bulbs rot.

Treatment

Treatment of bulbs in fungicides. You can use the drug maxim (soaking the bulbs), but it can cause burns to the buds of leaves and peduncles - their tips have a very thin epidermis. The third photo - burns from the drug maxim, although the bulbs are cured, the burns will remain.

You can also treat a red burn of the hippeastrum with other fungicides:

foundationholm (benomyl) 1 g per 1 liter of water
vitaros 2 ml per 1 l of water
oxych 4 g per 1 l of water

Black spot

The causative agent is mushrooms of the genus Rhytisma, Dothidella.

Symptoms:

Rhytisma acerinum - causes the formation of large, rounded spots, initially yellowish and vague. Then black dots appear on them, which gradually merge and form black shiny stromas (nodules), surrounded by a yellowish border. Sometimes there may be no yellowing around the black stroma.
Rhytisma salicinum - causes similar lesions, only the spots are more convex, more angular, large and small.
Rhytisma punctatum - causes the appearance of small, punctate or teardrop-shaped, shiny black and convex stroma.
Dothidella ulmi - causes the formation of grayish-black, rounded stroma; they are convex, at first shiny, later - rough, like warts.

A combination of conditions contributes to the spread of the disease: high air humidity, shading and high temperatures.

Control measures

Spraying with fungicides:

abiga peak 50 g per 10 l of water
acrobat MC 20 g per 5 l of water
benomyl (foundationol) 1 g per 1 liter of water
vectra 3 ml per 10 l of water
oxyhom 20 g per 10 l of water
home 40 g per 10 l of water
alirin-B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
vitaros 2 ml per 1 l of water

Spraying three times after 10 days.

Tracheomycosis

Tracheomycosis is a group of diseases called vascular wilting - pathogens enter through the roots and infect the vascular system of plants, clog the lumens of blood vessels with their mycelium, release toxins, the plant does not receive water and nutrients and begins to fade.

Tracheomycosis includes diseases such as:

verticillary wilting (verticillosis)
fusarium wilting (fusarium)
malsecco in citrus

The symptomatology is very similar, all diseases are diagnosed only in the laboratory, all are incurable, found at the stage when pathogenic fungi have already poisoned the vascular system, this is something like blood poisoning in animals. Orchids, phalaenopsis, dendrobiums, cattleyas, etc. suffer from tracheomycosis. Other indoor flowers: fuchsias, roses, balsam, begonias, geraniums; from garden: petunias, carnations, chrysanthemums, asters, dahlias. Vegetables are prone to tracheomycosis: cabbage, celery, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, lettuce, melons, potatoes, pumpkin, radishes, rhubarb.

There are also plants resistant to tracheomycosis: Saintpaulia, Ageratum, gypsophila, mallow, periwinkle, primrose, zinnia, asparagus, ferns, philodendrons. Of the vegetables, only corn and asparagus are able to resist.

In foreign practice, all tracheomycotic wilts are called simply: wilt - from wilt - wilt.

Verticillary wilting

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Verticillium. It reproduces exclusively asexually - by conidia, affects plant roots and poisons xylem tissues: it grows and multiplies systemically throughout the plant.

Symptoms: at the initial stages of the disease, the lower leaves acquire a grayish-greenish color due to the development of mezzanine necrosis. The leaf tissue between the veins turns brown and dries up. Then wilting begins, most of the leaves, starting from the bottom, turn yellow, curl and dry out. On the cut of the stem, the browning of the vessels is noticeable. The lumens of the vessels are filled with a thin multicellular mycelium. Plants stunted, develop poorly, then die. Sometimes the disease manifests itself on the plant in the drying out and dying off of individual branches of the bush. If conditions are favorable, the disease spreads to other branches and the entire plant dies rather quickly. If unfavorable conditions develop for the development of the fungus, the disease can drag on for months and part of the plant looks healthy, and part dies off.

The pathogen remains in the soil in the form of microlerotia for several years. The optimum temperature for the germination of sclerotia is 25-27 °, humidity is 60-70%. The development of the fungus is most likely on soil with a neutral pH value of 7-7.5. The spores of the fungus germinate and penetrate into the conductive tissue, where the mycelium develops, causing clogging of blood vessels. Since there is a gradual clogging of the vessels from the bottom up, the wilting of the leaves begins from the lower leaves and gradually covers the whole plant.

Prevention

Do not use garden soil for indoor plants without pretreatment: sprinkle on a baking sheet in a layer of 5 cm, heat at a maximum temperature for 20 minutes. Disinfect seeds by heating and disinfectants (for example, maxim fungicide)

Control measures

Chemical agents, due to the peculiar biology of the pathogen (development in the soil and spread through the conducting vessels), are ineffective. Treatment is possible only in the initial stages, by spraying with foundationol, Vectra (3 ml per 10 liters of water) or Topsin-M at a concentration of 0.2%.

Fusarium (fusarium wilting)

The causative agent is fungi of the genus Fusarium.

Fusarium develops only on weakened plants, primarily on dying sites. The course of the disease can be tracheomycotic wilting or root decay. Plants are affected at any age. The fungus is found in the soil and penetrates the plant through the soil and wounds, with water from natural sources, non-sterile tools during grafting or pruning. Increased humidity of the air and soil contributes to the spread of the disease.

Symptoms: In young plants, the disease manifests itself in the form of decay of the roots and root collar. In these places, the tissues turn brown, the stem becomes thinner, the leaves turn yellow. In affected plants, the tips of the shoots wither (loss of turgor), and then the entire shoot. This happens, as in the case of infection with verticillosis, due to the blockage of blood vessels by toxins and enzymes secreted by fungi. Therefore, darkening of the vessels is also visible on the cross section. But sometimes tracheomycosis manifests itself only on part of the crown, the rest remains healthy for the time being - then the bush or tree is oppressed, individual branches droop. If during the cut (clean cut without darkening) cuttings from healthy branches, you can root and get a healthy plant.

The rate of progress of the disease depends on how favorable conditions are for the development of the fungus. With high soil and air humidity, as well as temperatures above 18 ° C, the disease can destroy the entire plant in a few days. If the humidity is low, then the disease can become chronic, then the plant slowly withers over 3-4 weeks.

Control measures

Removal and destruction of the plant along with a clod of earth. Disinfection of pots with 5% copper sulfate solution, bleach, or at least scald with boiling water.

If wilting has just begun, then you can try to treat the plant with fungicides:

vectra 3 ml per 10 l of water
benomyl (foundation) 1 g per 1 liter of water for orchids, 1 g per 100 ml
alirin B 2 tablets per 1 liter of water
vitaros 2 ml per 1 l of water

Spraying three times, with an interval of 7-10 days.

How to treat orchids: get rid of the old substrate (discard or cook the bark for at least half an hour). Cut off rotten roots. Prepare the fungicide solution and spray thoroughly on the root system and leaves. Leave to dry. Plant in a fresh substrate (large pieces of bark, styrofoam, cork). Do not spray, water by immersion if necessary for a short time (5 minutes is sufficient). It is advisable to keep sick orchids at a temperature of 23-24 ° C, without drafts, with very intense, but diffused lighting (it is possible under lamps).

The soil for large plantings (growing seedlings and transplanting tub plants) can be prepared by shedding it properly, with a solution of potassium permanganate (pink), a drug, Maxim, or by adding trichodermine. When working, sterilize tools - a knife, scissors and even a garter material (wire, thread) with alcohol.